Shou Sugi Ban Method for housing Sulcata

Joined
Feb 7, 2021
Messages
33
Location (City and/or State)
Alabama
Hello all!
I have plans to rebuild my 5 year old sulcata a new outdoor house much stronger and easier to clean. My first heated house was internally 4’ x 4’ and it worked well until it didn’t. I built the roof too heavy to lift without risk of death to me when leaning in. Therefore I cut it in half which made me paranoid at night wondering if the two halves were matched up properly. I insulated well but need better ventilation. The cage for the heater was great until Tonka reached 56 lbs. He can dig and move almost anything. His doorway has been widened and height added three times. It is a sad sight. The floor has rotted where he pees and has been replaced. So…..
I was wanting to see what anyone thought about using natural 4” x 4” lumber but using the Shou Sugi Ban method (burning and then brushing off some charring) of preserving. Has anyone tried this? I’d insulate and possibly add another 4” x4” layer on other side. Do I make the interior bigger than the 5’x 5’ or bigger? Do I make it taller than 2’-3’? We have so many ants here in Alabama. They come up from the ground all over the place so I wanted to pour a concrete slab base at a mild angle and use 2” thick horse rubber mats on top. Can a sulcata destroy rubber mats? If so, at what rate? Has anyone tried them? I’d have a panel I can open on the bottom so I can hose out the enclosure as needed. What do y’all think? Welcoming any thoughts or opinions.

 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
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63,611
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
Hello all!
I have plans to rebuild my 5 year old sulcata a new outdoor house much stronger and easier to clean. My first heated house was internally 4’ x 4’ and it worked well until it didn’t. I built the roof too heavy to lift without risk of death to me when leaning in. Therefore I cut it in half which made me paranoid at night wondering if the two halves were matched up properly. I insulated well but need better ventilation. The cage for the heater was great until Tonka reached 56 lbs. He can dig and move almost anything. His doorway has been widened and height added three times. It is a sad sight. The floor has rotted where he pees and has been replaced. So…..
I was wanting to see what anyone thought about using natural 4” x 4” lumber but using the Shou Sugi Ban method (burning and then brushing off some charring) of preserving. Has anyone tried this? I’d insulate and possibly add another 4” x4” layer on other side. Do I make the interior bigger than the 5’x 5’ or bigger? Do I make it taller than 2’-3’? We have so many ants here in Alabama. They come up from the ground all over the place so I wanted to pour a concrete slab base at a mild angle and use 2” thick horse rubber mats on top. Can a sulcata destroy rubber mats? If so, at what rate? Has anyone tried them? I’d have a panel I can open on the bottom so I can hose out the enclosure as needed. What do y’all think? Welcoming any thoughts or opinions.

A 4x4 foot box that is sealed and insulated should last for at least decade for a single sulcata. I have some that are nearly 15 years old and going strong. Horse stall mats are fine and can stand up to a sulcata, but they aren't necessary and will trap water and filth underneath them. You can seal the edges, but water will eventually find a way. I just put down a layer of dry dirt on the untreated plywood and scrape it up with a flathead shovel a couple of times per week. My leopards were much messier and their floor rotted after about 8 or 9 years. I simply put a 3/4 inch plywood patch over the area and I should be good to go for another 10 years. I've never had a sulcata floor rot.

There is no room for a caged heater for larger tortoises in a 4x4, so switch to different heating to save space. An 18x28 Kane mat on the floor with a 21 inch RHP over head both controlled by the same thermostat.

Here is an example:

If you really like your radiant oil heater and want to stick with that, use this design. You'd only need one 16x26 inch door.

One nice feature of these boxes is that the lid is all one solid piece of plywood with no seams. No seams = no leaks at the seams. I use lightweight 2x2 lumber and thin 11/32 plywood to keep weight down on the lids. I also hand pick light weight 2x4 or 2x3s for the rim of the lid. Ever notice how some of the 2x4 at the store feel super light and dry, while other feel heavy and water logged? I save the light ones for the lids.

Concrete will suck the heat right out of the box in winter. I wouldn't go that way.

I've never seen 2 inch thick stall mats. That would weigh a ton and be very difficult to cut or mange. I use the 1/2 inch mats under very heavy tortoises, and those work fine. 3/4 inch mats will last even longer, but the 1/2 inch ones never wear out anyway.

Building a box out of 4x4s does not seem practical or cost effective.
 

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