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I was feeding my hatchlings this morning and my one would hardly open its eyes. I always place them in front of their food and they usually wake up and start munching. So, Bella kept walking about with her eyes shut. Every now and then opening them. She took a couple of bites. Would shut then try to take bites and miss! Meanwhile, Henley is chowin down. She just kept her eyes shut but seemed to know where she was going. I do not see any discharge and her eyes seem pretty clear. They are so....tiny, it is hard to see them well. I know she can open them but does not seem to want to. Her weight gain is the same as Henley's so she must be getting enough but I don't understand this. I read that I could put opthamalic triple antibiotic gel 3x daily in case it is conjunctivitis. Any other ideas?

Hi Dee,
I'd go with the ophthalmic triple antibiotic. Keep us updated as to how she's doing when you do.

Danny

Alot of times tortoises will scratch their eyes because of dust or even scratch them on the substrate themsevles leading to infection. What kind of substrate are you using?

I have 50/50 topsoil sand. I don't think it is that. Her behavior in general is odd. I did catch her at odd times eating today. Keeping my fingers crossed. I remember why I have not had hatchlings for 3 years! Stressful!! LOL

Yes a lot of stress. I've avoided getting a hatchling leopard for this reason. A friend of mine lost two of them. They are more difficult then people would think because of their availability.

Have you tried soaking him in water?
Sometimes they're dehydrated and have trouble with their eyes, or the water will dislodge what ever is bugging their eyes.

jlyoncc1 Wrote:I have 50/50 topsoil sand. I don't think it is that. Her behavior in general is odd. I did catch her at odd times eating today. Keeping my fingers crossed. I remember why I have not had hatchlings for 3 years! Stressful!! LOL

its worth trying a mix with a higher soil content to sand i do 70/30 with my tortoises as the higher sand content does seem to cause irritation with the eyes

I soak them quite often. I do think I am going to change the substrate to a higher soil content. But it seems as if she is coming out of her funk a bit. Opening her eyes alot more and eating more again. Who knows? The temps and humidity are good and she is gaining weight so.......

Dee,
I am glad to hear she is doing better. Sorry I've no advice just well wished.

Thanks Robyn - It was one of those things that you just scratch your head and wonder!

Dee FWIW.. before I specialized in redfoots I had leopards..



I aquired them as 4" WC from an importer friend in FL. [ I sadly traded, etc. when the Alpha female of the trio was over 13". The 12" female had nose issues almost from day one.. she didn't like the humidity so they went to Dallas - hot and dry ] My friend also bred several tort species. The point is: Too many breeder's will sell their hatchlings BEFORE they are "well started" - eating for at least 4-6 weeks! My breeder friend [ hatchling from above ] and I wait. And I'll bet Danny does also!

Taking them from their "crib" too soon is added stress upon stress.

I raised my "hatchling's" on a soft hay.. [ they also nibbled at will ] and graduated up to a more "natural" substrate of mostly dirt. I did also provide a warm moist hide for them too. Moist being vital for carapace health and growth.. temps in mid 80's.

Again FWIW I provide a water/soak dish.. a plastic gallon ice cream lid - perfect depth.. so they can do their own thing. Again the less handling as hatchlings the better.

Forgive my rambling.. "we're" here to help so ya'll don't have to make the same mistakes we did in the past!

Is anyone learning anything?

Terry

That is exactly what I do Terry. Any hatchling sold should be well started and eating for 3 to 6 weeks before shipping.
You will find also a lot of breeders that have never raised a hatchling. They got their breeders as adults or subadults and never keep any hatchlings back. These are the breeders you want to avoid. You can't tell someone how to raise a hatchling if you have never done it yourself.

Danny

So Terry and Dan, I should ditch the sand/soil mix? What type of hay do you recommend. I do have a very shallow water/soaking dish which they do seem to use frequently, plus I do soak them and see them drink. Terry, after much searching, I found a bag of the moss you recommended and will be putting that in today or tomorrow. Do I cut the hay up to put it in in order for them to be able to walk on it. They are so.....tiny. Only about 2 inches. They hatched in mid-August.


I just want to make sure I am doing the best for them. The more imput the better, I am always worrying.

Personally Dee I would use finely shredded aspen for a substrate for all species that like it drier. I just find it so much better than anything else. It holds together in a mat and gives great traction for any tortoises. If it gets wet or damp it just drys, it never molds. It's thermal neutral, it never gets to warm or cold.
All my hachlings go on aspen from about a week old and they are smaller than your leopards and have no trouble.

Danny

How long do you keep them in the aspen? I also have a 4 1/2", 2 yr. old and all of my larger sulcatas. Could I be using this for them as well? I currently am using the soil/sand with them as well. During the summer, everyone will be outside except for the leopards. They will just have outings.