# How much and how often to feed young cherry head?



## maiayns (Sep 2, 2011)

I'm still new and I don't want to over or under feed my cherry head. He's still very young. I'm not quite sure how old, but I'll post pictures of later for the lovely experts on here to determine. What I'm confused about is how much/how often should I feed my cherry head? Once a day? And are there any recommended diets I should follow as a start until I get a better understanding?


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## terryo (Sep 2, 2011)

I have my first Cherry Head five years now, and I still love this site the best, even though many more have been written. It's so easy to follow for a beginner....Now that I have another one I still follow this site and love it for it's simplicity. http://www.redfoots.com/redfoot.htm
If you go to the top of the page and put your mouse on diet, the different ages will come up and tell you what to feed and how much...even with pictures. I still use this care sheet for my older one from time to time.


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## maiayns (Sep 2, 2011)

is it okay if he eat off of the cypress substrate? It's the only way I've gotten him to eat. He hates being put in his water or food dish, so I put the lettuce onto the substrate and he started eating it.


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## Madkins007 (Sep 2, 2011)

I use some folded newspaper as a 'feeding tray', then toss it later. 

As for amounts- don't worry about how much low-calorie, high-fiber and high-calcium food it gets- offer it all the greens, flowers, leaves, mushrooms, hays, grasses, etc. you want, but limit the proteins, carbs, and fats.


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## maiayns (Sep 2, 2011)

terryo said:


> I have my first Cherry Head five years now, and I still love this site the best, even though many more have been written. It's so easy to follow for a beginner....Now that I have another one I still follow this site and love it for it's simplicity. http://www.redfoots.com/redfoot.htm
> If you go to the top of the page and put your mouse on diet, the different ages will come up and tell you what to feed and how much...even with pictures. I still use this care sheet for my older one from time to time.



Thanks so much. The info on there is so simple to follow! 



Madkins007 said:


> I use some folded newspaper as a 'feeding tray', then toss it later.
> 
> As for amounts- don't worry about how much low-calorie, high-fiber and high-calcium food it gets- offer it all the greens, flowers, leaves, mushrooms, hays, grasses, etc. you want, but limit the proteins, carbs, and fats.



The newspaper as a feeding tray is smart! I should use that for now until he decides to leave his hideaway. He's still very shy and scared.


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## Madkins007 (Sep 3, 2011)

A note about the redfoots.com menu- one of the reasons I started the Library is that I was unhappy with my tortoise's poop using this diet. When I compared it to recommendations from various experts, I found that redfoots.com was higher in sweet fruits and carbs; lower in calcium, fiber and variety (which means lower in a variety of vitamins and nutrients); used a controversial source for the meat proteins; and was very low in vitamin D if the tortoises are kept inside.

You can improve the redfoots.com diet by only offering a 'sweet fruit' once a week and using vegetables with seeds the other times, adding a little ground up Timothy hay (I break up rabbit food cubes) to all greens meals for fiber, changing the cat food to worms and bugs, and once a week adding a tiny pinch of multivitamins (I just crush and use a bit of one of the ones I take). I also use a UVB source even for small torts, but if you do not, I would try to find a way to get them sunlight or additional vitamin D.

Many people think that one reason for pyramiding is improper early bone and shell development- lack of calcium, vitamin D, phosphorous, iron, etc. A good early diet should address this.


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## terryo (Sep 3, 2011)

Madkins007 said:


> A note about the redfoots.com menu- one of the reasons I started the Library is that I was unhappy with my tortoise's poop using this diet. When I compared it to recommendations from various experts, I found that redfoots.com was higher in sweet fruits and carbs; lower in calcium, fiber and variety (which means lower in a variety of vitamins and nutrients); used a controversial source for the meat proteins; and was very low in vitamin D if the tortoises are kept inside.
> 
> You can improve the redfoots.com diet by only offering a 'sweet fruit' once a week and using vegetables with seeds the other times, adding a little ground up Timothy hay (I break up rabbit food cubes) to all greens meals for fiber, changing the cat food to worms and bugs, and once a week adding a tiny pinch of multivitamins (I just crush and use a bit of one of the ones I take). I also use a UVB source even for small torts, but if you do not, I would try to find a way to get them sunlight or additional vitamin D.
> 
> Many people think that one reason for pyramiding is improper early bone and shell development- lack of calcium, vitamin D, phosphorous, iron, etc. A good early diet should address this.



I loved that care sheet for it's simplicity Mark. I think it's great for a beginner, where there is so much confusion around. When I first got mine, I was in tears all the time because of the conflicting information out there. I was so happy to find that care sheet, and I have to say Terry K. was very patient with me and answered all my questions with a lot of patience. I think Pio looks great and I followed that diet for three years with her. Solo is also on the same diet now and is looking great. Their poop is well formed and the right color, and is never soft. 

This is what mine look like from following that care sheet for three years.






Solo has been on it for 1 year now





I don't mean to contradict you Mark, but it's just what has worked for me for my Cherries.


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## Madkins007 (Sep 3, 2011)

I am glad the program works for you, Terry. You have also always managed to provide a very well-planted and humid habitat, above and beyond what that site suggests, that meets many of the tortoise's needs to raise gorgeous tortoises. 

Redfoots.com offers a simple program, but simple is not always best, and the program does not work for everyone. Some people who follow the site's advice struggle with pyramiding and other issues that can be addressed with relatively simple tweaks.


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## terryo (Sep 3, 2011)

Maybe I didn't make myself clear on using the care sheet. If not, I'm sorry. I only used the feeding schedule on that care sheet. The enclosure was mine, not Terry K's. After much conflicting advice, I decided to make Pio's enclosure like I made for all my indoor box turtles. So I guess the combination of the very humid vivarium, plus the "good eats", made Pio and Solo healthy, and happy torts. Sorry if there was any misunderstanding here.


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