# Hanging lights ideas



## RonHays (Feb 16, 2011)

Ok yall I'm looking for some ideas on hanging heat lamps\lights over our new enclosure. We have vaulted ceilings and not entirely sure how to go about doing that. We have pics of the new enclosure in another thread here entitled "Newest enclosure" by shayee. Any advice\help would be appreciated. Thanks.


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## coreyc (Feb 16, 2011)

I would get a few light stands then you can adjust them how you need them


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## yagyujubei (Feb 16, 2011)

Easy, just make a light bar.(Goal post) 2-2x4 about 4" screwed to ends (vertically), and one for across the top. Then you can mount your lights anywhere you want. Cost? About $5.00.

Correction: 4' end uprights


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## RonHays (Feb 16, 2011)

I like the sound of the light bar idea. I just don't want to take anything away from the look of the enclosure.


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## CtTortoiseMom (Feb 16, 2011)

RonHays said:


> I like the sound of the light bar idea. I just don't want to take anything away from the look of the enclosure.



Seriously?!


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## Fernando (Feb 16, 2011)

CtTortoiseMom said:


> RonHays said:
> 
> 
> > I like the sound of the light bar idea. I just don't want to take anything away from the look of the enclosure.
> ...



lol I felt that way too. I live in an apartment and my wife likes to decorate like we live in Ikea...When we first bought an enclosure for Andy we thought of how it would look FIRST rather than the health and safety of it in general....long story short... My "tortoise corner" is a TOTAL MESS!!! haha my wife hates it but I love it. I've got all I need and I made sure it was safe and he's getting what HE needs.


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## Yvonne G (Feb 16, 2011)

I cut a piece of plywood that is the length and width of the habitat (for the bottom), then I cut two 2x4's, one for each end. I made a mistake and cut them a little too short, but it worked out ok. I would have liked them to be three or four inches taller. Then I took those metal braces that are in the shape of an "L" and stood the 2x4 up on the end of the plywood and screwed them together using the metal "L". Then I took a 1x1, cut to the length between the 2x4's and screwed it to the tops of the 2x4's.


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## Mao Senpai (Feb 16, 2011)

You can use some stands that'll hold the lamp up.... it worked well for me.


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## Cfr200 (Feb 16, 2011)

I used some 2x2s and a piece of 1/2 conduit. Then I attached the lights with key rings and chain so I could adjust them up and down. I should have stained or painted the wood but I was too lazy. Plus I used some plant hangers to hang my CHEs over some of their hides. I could have hung the CHEs from bar but wanted them closer to the hides, in the winter. I found this method to be very stable and easy to do. I think the total cost was under 10 bucks.


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## jaizei (Feb 16, 2011)

What about something like this? Just make the vertical pieces longer.


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## Yvonne G (Feb 16, 2011)

jaizei said:


> What about something like this? Just make the vertical pieces longer.



Hi Jaizei:

Welcome to the forum!! May we know your name and where you are?

That PVC light stand would work, and can be made pretty cheap. Thanks for the link.


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## mike1011 (Feb 16, 2011)

I like the lite bar idea, but whatever you do please make sure the lite cannot fall especially into the enclosure where something WILL catch on fire from it!


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## RonHays (Feb 16, 2011)

Thanks for your help everyone. Now I have a good idea on how I'm going to hang my lights.


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## Cameron (Feb 16, 2011)

the racks are a good idea, there is also another idea you could look into. you could cut a piece of plywood, like 8" wide or so and span it across the width of the table. attach each end the walls on the table. take a hole saw and cut an 2" hole in it. take a ceramic "keyless" fixture (you can get it at lowes or home depot for like $3) and attach it to the underside of the plywood "shelf" where the hole is cut. all it is, is a simple screw-in type light socket, kind of like what you probably have in your garage. you can then hardwire the keyless fixture into an extension cord or similar cord and plug into a standard wall receptacle. then just screw in the light bulb/lamp that you want to use into that. you can also do the same thing with a small flourescent tube fixture. i did that to my redfoot enclosure and it workes really well. i am at work right now and will try and get you some pics to help illistrate what i am talking about tomorrow. 



***EDIT*** found some on my photobucket account. used on my snake cage, but same principle....











I added the lamp guard for the snakes, the keyless fixture is what the bulb is screwed into (obviously).


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## RonHays (Feb 17, 2011)

Ok I have a question. We just bought 3 lamps to hang and on the paperwork inside, it says not for use with ceramic heat emitters. Why is that? I don't see where it would hurt anything. I mean heat lights generate a lot of heat themselves.


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## coreyc (Feb 17, 2011)

What kind did you get ? I know the Zoo Med mini combo deep dome fixture says the same I emailed themthis is what I got back




Thank you for contacting us. the Mini Deep Dome fixture does not provide enough ventilation to be used with a Ceramic Heat Emitter. Heat Emitters can operate at 400 degrees or more and if that heat is not allowed to escape the dome, it can build up in the base and cause problems in the wires. Please let me know if you have any further questions.



Kind regards,


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## RonHays (Feb 17, 2011)

coreyc said:


> What kind did you get ? I know the Zoo Med mini combo deep dome fixture says the same I emailed themthis is what I got back
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Yeah mine will be ventilated so I'm not too worried about it. But yeah I got the zoo med dual but the bulbs for that will be a heat lamp and a UVB light. The zoo med single will have the emitter in it. It should be fine. Thanks for the info.


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## Madkins007 (Feb 17, 2011)

I use a 'Light Bar' in the Tortarium- 3 pieces of aluminum angle iron bolted together and painted black. The actual lamps hang from chain and S-hooks

Here is a link to a photo: http://www.flickr.com/photos/madkins007/5027660430/in/set-72157624738958833/

You do need to use ventilated, heat-resistant domes for ceramic heat emitters. Ideally, you'll also use a dome big enough that there is a big gap between the edges of the emitter and the dome, and deep enough for the emitter to actually be well 'inside' the dome. This way, the heat trying to emit to the side and up has a better chance of being reflected back down.

(Also, just FYI- white is a better reflector than aluminum, and polished aluminum is better than 'raw'.)


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## Balboa (Feb 17, 2011)

RonHays said:


> coreyc said:
> 
> 
> > What kind did you get ? I know the Zoo Med mini combo deep dome fixture says the same I emailed themthis is what I got back
> ...



We see this all the time, 99% of the heat emitters out there are incorrectly installed.

I've said it before and I'll say it again, I wish people would stop doing it. Its only a matter of time until somebody burns their house down.

A couple of the major causes for house fires are lamps and portable heating. With torts these get combined into one.

The only fixture UL Listed for use with CHEs are the open wire basket types that you can't even find in most cases (folks don't want them, they're "ugly")

I'd also like to see people stop hanging their lights by the cords, please use chain.


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## RonHays (Feb 17, 2011)

Madkins007 thanks for the help. I'm on my way to the pet store to get the right fixture for my CHE. Balboa I appreciate your insight but you don't have to be so rude about it. I'm not an expert on this and that's why I'm on here to get helpful advice.


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## Yvonne G (Feb 17, 2011)

Its ok, Ron...calm down!! 

Balboa is an electrician and feels pretty strongly about this subject. I'm afraid that I'm the worst offender of the hang-the-light-by-the-cord school. 

The written word always comes across more strongly than the original thought before writing it down. We're really just one big, happy family here.


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## EricIvins (Feb 17, 2011)

Red Earth Exotics said:


> the racks are a good idea, there is also another idea you could look into. you could cut a piece of plywood, like 8" wide or so and span it across the width of the table. attach each end the walls on the table. take a hole saw and cut an 2" hole in it. take a ceramic "keyless" fixture (you can get it at lowes or home depot for like $3) and attach it to the underside of the plywood "shelf" where the hole is cut. all it is, is a simple screw-in type light socket, kind of like what you probably have in your garage. you can then hardwire the keyless fixture into an extension cord or similar cord and plug into a standard wall receptacle. then just screw in the light bulb/lamp that you want to use into that. you can also do the same thing with a small flourescent tube fixture. i did that to my redfoot enclosure and it workes really well. i am at work right now and will try and get you some pics to help illistrate what i am talking about tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Being an Electrician, that picture scares the crap out of me........

And yes, hanging a lamp by its cord also does the same.......


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## Cameron (Feb 17, 2011)

EricIvins said:


> Red Earth Exotics said:
> 
> 
> > the racks are a good idea, there is also another idea you could look into. you could cut a piece of plywood, like 8" wide or so and span it across the width of the table. attach each end the walls on the table. take a hole saw and cut an 2" hole in it. take a ceramic "keyless" fixture (you can get it at lowes or home depot for like $3) and attach it to the underside of the plywood "shelf" where the hole is cut. all it is, is a simple screw-in type light socket, kind of like what you probably have in your garage. you can then hardwire the keyless fixture into an extension cord or similar cord and plug into a standard wall receptacle. then just screw in the light bulb/lamp that you want to use into that. you can also do the same thing with a small flourescent tube fixture. i did that to my redfoot enclosure and it workes really well. i am at work right now and will try and get you some pics to help illistrate what i am talking about tomorrow.
> ...



I'm a electrician also...it's not that big of a deal.


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## HLogic (Feb 17, 2011)

Just a quick note... It would be wise to use either metallic (no cardboard insert) or ceramic socket bases for any heat lamp or self-ballasted Mercury Vapor Bulb.

I'm glad that light set up is not within walking distance, I have this irresistable urge to stick my tongue on the wire terminals!


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## Fernando (Feb 17, 2011)

Okay so i'm planning on purchasing a CHE as well. What is the correct type of fixture it is supposed to be installed in? (got a picture?) 

I guess I'll be removing my hang-the-light-from-a-chord method I've been using too....thanks!!! =P


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## Cameron (Feb 17, 2011)

HLogic said:


> Just a quick note... It would be wise to use either metallic (no cardboard insert) or ceramic socket bases for any heat lamp or self-ballasted Mercury Vapor Bulb.
> 
> I'm glad that light set up is not within walking distance, I have this irresistable urge to stick my tongue on the wire terminals!



the keyless is ceramic. also, you wouldn't have to resist your urges to lick the terminals...another wooden cage sits directly over that one so nothing is exposed.


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## Yvonne G (Feb 17, 2011)

This is what "they" recommend:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DIWVO/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

But I used the 10" aluminum dome with a ceramic base with no problem.


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## Tom (Feb 17, 2011)

emysemys said:


> I'm afraid that I'm the worst offender of the hang-the-light-by-the-cord school.



Oh, I might have you beat there...

Whats wrong with hanging them by the cord. I've found it to be very secure and it hasn't caused me a problem in the 20 some odd years I've been doing it. Have I been narrowly avoiding disaster?


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## Cameron (Feb 17, 2011)

Tom, it's really not that big of a deal. If the lamps/fixtures weighed several pounds, then yes the wires could come loose and cause a short. With a lightweight dome fixture and a small bulb, there is very little strain on the cord. I think it's more of a pet peeve with certain people than anything. If I were to hang by the cord, I would check it every few months or so just to verify that the cord is securely attached to the fixture base.


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## Cfr200 (Feb 17, 2011)

Tom said:


> emysemys said:
> 
> 
> > I'm afraid that I'm the worst offender of the hang-the-light-by-the-cord school.
> ...



Yes I think 20 years is pushing your luck 19 is alright, only kidding. Unless the cord is meant to hang the lamp you are putting a lot of stress on the connections in the socket. These connections will one day break and that is when the toruble begins. You will have a loose wire that is still plugged in this can lead to a fire, you being shocked or if you are lucky the light just not lighting.


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## Tom (Feb 17, 2011)

When I have opened up dead, unplugged fixtures in the past, there is usually a knot in the cord keeping tension off of the actual connection. Is this not the case anymore?


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## Cameron (Feb 17, 2011)

Tom said:


> When I have opened up dead, unplugged fixtures in the past, there is usually a knot in the cord keeping tension off of the actual connection. Is this not the case anymore?



i haven't seen any without a knot or some other way of keeping tension off of the actual terminations.


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## Cfr200 (Feb 17, 2011)

Not all of them do some have little plastic stress relief pieces in them and after a while they crack and break. The ones with knots can have problems when the knots gets tighter it can cause the wire to heat up. This is because it changes the impedance of the wire making a hot spot which in turn can start a fire or cause the insulation to melt causing a bare wire.


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## RonHays (Feb 17, 2011)

Ok. I have installed a couple of light bars with the correct light fixtures hanging from chains. Shayee is going to post pics of the lights in a few. Thanks yall for the tips and advice.


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## shayee (Feb 17, 2011)

RonHays said:


> Ok yall I'm looking for some ideas on hanging heat lamps\lights over our new enclosure. We have vaulted ceilings and not entirely sure how to go about doing that. We have pics of the new enclosure in another thread here entitled "Newest enclosure" by shayee. Any advice\help would be appreciated. Thanks.



Okay Ron's lighting issue has been solved. We made it to Petsmart and Home Depot. We found a dome light that was for a CHE so the problem of the wrong fixture was solved. We worked all afternoon and here are the pictures of the changes we made......






























Ron we did great and it doesn't take away from the beautiful enclosure we have created together and I love it....The plexiglass will be in tomorrow and the rest of the background finished.


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## EricIvins (Feb 18, 2011)

Red Earth Exotics said:


> EricIvins said:
> 
> 
> > Red Earth Exotics said:
> ...



1 - Any and all Electrical connections should be terminated in an appropriate juction box, not exposed, even if it's covered up........

2 - Wheres your arc guard? Nothing like setting Melamine on fire if one of those connections ever arc, which is why #1 is so important.......

3 - How is that piece of wire terminated? I really hope it isn't exposed with a cord cap on the end of it.......Another potential hazard......


I've re-wired a few houses re-built after Electrical fires, and it will completely change the outlook of someone who has been through one.......

A lamp being hung by its cord is not UL listed to do so. Granted, every uses something that's not its intended use, but you will stress the terminals in the lamp itself by doing so. Obviously, some are built better than others, but the result is still the same over time. A loose or stressed Terminal may arc, which may cause a fire.......I've also seen lamps that overheated and had a complete meltdown causing a fire......

Electrical Fires are a very real possibility........Especially with some of the really cheap quality clamp lamps out there.......


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## Cameron (Feb 18, 2011)

EricIvins said:


> Red Earth Exotics said:
> 
> 
> > EricIvins said:
> ...



PM sent, don't want to continue to hijack thread.....


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## Madkins007 (Feb 18, 2011)

Shayee- Nice! 

One quick thought- on the fixture you worm clamped and are using two chains on? If you would have worm clamped a 'U'-shaped piece of strong stiff wire, you could hang the fixture from the 'U' with one chain. It would make it easier to adjust the length. Not enough of a deal to rework it, just a thought for the next time.

This whole issue is why I always look for fixtures with a hanging loop attached.


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