# How to build a tortoise pool



## Markw84 (Aug 2, 2020)

I have been completely redoing my whole outdoor area where I kept my sulcatas, I have added lots and lots of plants since there is the ability to grow now without getting bulldozed over. Also some planters for sight barriers and more plants to cascade down into the area. One of the big changes is to incorporate a large concrete watering hole, or pool for self soaking. I want it about 6 feet in diameter, so it will be fairly large and require a bit of work. I thought it would be perhaps of interest to some, exactly how I go about the build.

Here is where I am putting the pool. It is fairly close to the lowest area in this yard where I have a drain. I wanted to put in a larger pipe to serve as a way to let gravity drain the pool for easy cleaning. I am completely topping the entire area with new topsoil and reseeding the entire area, so this is being done just prior to my doing that as my intent is to have a nice grass border growing over the pool edge. I first outline the pool area with a shovel cutting in the edge and leaving a fairly steep edge to the grass to facilitate new growth easily right up to the pool




I then undercut the grass to lift out sections of sod to place around the edges to give a slope up to the pond edge so no drainage could have runoff that could drain into the pool. It also added a few inches of height needed for my drain to have room for gravity flow to empty the pool I designed the pool to be about 8" deep when finished with very gradual sloping sides.




Using a 20 ft section of flexible border I got a Lowe's, I used that to create my form for the outside edge of the pool and a perfectly level border to pour the concrete to.




With a straight board and a carpenter's level, I adjusted the edging to perfectly level. I secured it in place with the stakes they make to secure this border putting the stakes on the outside for removal after the concrete sets.

You can also see the drain I put in. I used a 2" section of PVC pipe. Large enough to not get plugged easily. And since the pipe for the outflow is only needed to be about 4 ft long, easy to maintain if anything should plug it. I've also added an automatic fill line. I put in an extra sprinkler valve and line when I first did my yard to allow for this sometime in the future. That future is now, so I just have to connect to that buried line and set the pipe into the pool edge. I had stubbed out the extra line for the fill line just inside that mow strip you see on the fare right of the picture. So not too far to connect.

That is the 3/4" dill line on the right, with the 2" drain on the left. The drain will be left with enough exposed to put an elbow on. I can then use that to adjust the water level depending upon how much I tip the elbow and the length of a short piece of pipe.







I am not using any wire or rebar in the pour. At this size there will be no cracking problem with concrete, especially with water in it. I also want to have the option to remove it by breaking it apart and that would be a real issue with rebar or wire in the concrete. I am calculating the amount of concrete based upon making it around 3" thick. So everything is dug to an extra depth of 3" below where I want the finished pool to be. I am using quikrete sacked concrete. I'm older now, so I use the 60 lb bags so I can handle them more easily. I calculated I need about 15 bags for this pool. That is way too much to try to mix in a wheelbarrow, so renting a small cement mixer from Home Depot was the best option. You have to pour the entire pool before you first bag you mix hardens too much or you will end up with a cold seam and a weaker point in the pour. So I need to be able to do this whole concrete pour in about 2 hours max. Working by myself that is a chore, but doable. I also needed to take advantage of the cooler weather of the morning, so I started at 7AM. The difference between 70° weather and 95° weather gives me at least twice as long before the concrete sets too much. Without the electric mixer, I could not do this.

If you haven't mixed concrete before, there are some tips that will save you some extra work. With the mixer running, have your hose on with a nozzle to easily turn on and off. Put water in the running mixer first. I mix 2-3 bags in each batch. I add about 1-1/2 gallons of water into the mixer first. Then add one bag of concrete. I like it to be too wet for this first bag to get a good mix of concrete that is too wet started in the mixer. If you don't do this, there will be large sections of semi-dry concrete that will stick to the edges of the barrel of the mixer that is a real pain to try to loosen up and break free. Start wet, then add concrete to get the right consistency. I then add about 1/2 of another bag and watch to see it mix. Again I like to keep it on the wet side.

Here is the mixer with the concrete just a bit too wet. It slides easily as the mixer turns and does not break up at all as the blades go through it and try to lift it... The concrete is fairly liquid and slides easily as the mixer turns.




I add a bit more water and then the rest of the second bag. I then watch to see the concrete is still in that "too wet" stage. I then start adding the third bag, but only about 1/3 of it. I keep adding until the concrete reaches the perfect consistency. It should be wet enough to fall easily as the mixer turns and the blade cuts through it, but it should start to clump just a bit as the blade cuts through and look a bit more chunky at the bottom of the mixer. Look at this picture below and see the look of the mix at the bottom of the mixer? That's what you want. If you look back at the picture above, you see more of a soupy look between the chucks. The right consistency will save you a lot of grief as you try to shape your pour and get it all done before the first section gets too hard!!!! It may seem like a subtle difference to see it, but adding that 3rd bag slowly, you will easily see it when it starts to change.




This batch is now ready to pour. The mixer simply tips to pour, so I tip it and pour this mix directly into the pool area. I immediately set the mixer back and wash down the mixer sides - adding water to the mixer for the next batch. I don't want concrete to start to harden on the mixer and with the next 1-1/2 gallons of water in the mixer, I can simply leave it running while I now start to spread the concrete.

Start at one edge, not the middle. You will want to keep a fresh edge of concrete that has not yet started to set for your next batch. By working from one side, you can keep that edge you are blending with successive batches as minimal as possible. This first batch I spread out in one direction and leave it a bit thin, so the next pour will go on top of it and there is not edge I am trying to blend yet.

Work your way from one side to the next. spread with a shovel, and then smooth with a pool trowel. IMPORTANT! Do no use a concrete trowel. They have sharp, square corners that will simply dig into a curved, concave pour. They are made to finish perfectly level surfaces. You want to use a pool trowel. They have round endss and are designed for shaping concave shapes. You can just see the end of one of my pool trowels in the very bottom left side of this picture.

Here I am just starting to shape the finished level on the very left side. The bulk of the area is still too low so the next pour can go on top of it minimizing the edge to blend between pours.




When you work the concrete with your trowel, bounce it up and down to settle the concrete and help bring the "soupier" part to the surface you will use to smooth over the aggregate. Just work it back and forth over and over an area and it will become smoother and smoother. Push and shape it into place as you go. You can see above, I have pushed the left back edge up close to its finished level now. I wanted a level edge around the pool, so you can see it taking shape.

Below the pour is complete. This took me about 1-1/2 hours. It is still workable and you can see I have smoothed the surface to the shape I wanted. I bought 16 bags and had 2 left, so I guess I calculated OK for this job!




I did use a broom and lightly brushed over the concrete while hard, but still a bit wet on top. This created a texture to the surface so it would not be too slippery for the tortoise walking in and out.




The next morning, I removed the edging border and stakes.




The day after that, I backfilled around the edges to fill any gaps between the ground surface and pool edge. I added some plants for hides along the border, and also a few Rose Of Sharon for shading the pool.







Next was reseeding the entire yard and putting a top dressing over everything for the grass to grow in properly.




A month later now, the grass is doing well, the plants have overcome transplant shock and are establishing. My largest of the new tortoises has been enjoying the new enclosure for just over a week now with plenty of grazing!!


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## Yvonne G (Aug 2, 2020)

What do you mean "new tortoises"? Do tell!


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## Maro2Bear (Aug 2, 2020)

Markw84 said:


> I have been completely redoing my whole outdoor area where I kept my sulcatas, I have added lots and lots of plants since there is the ability to grow now without getting bulldozed over. Also some planters for sight barriers and more plants to cascade down into the area. One of the big changes is to incorporate a large concrete watering hole, or pool for self soaking. I want it about 6 feet in diameter, so it will be fairly large and require a bit of work. I thought it would be perhaps of interest to some, exactly how I go about the build.
> 
> Here is where I am putting the pool. It is fairly close to the lowest area in this yard where I have a drain. I wanted to put in a larger pipe to serve as a way to let gravity drain the pool for easy cleaning. I am completely topping the entire area with new topsoil and reseeding the entire area, so this is being done just prior to my doing that as my intent is to have a nice grass border growing over the pool edge. I first outline the pool area with a shovel cutting in the edge and leaving a fairly steep edge to the grass to facilitate new growth easily right up to the pool
> 
> ...



It looks like you added in one of those solar-powered fountain sprayers. Nice touch.!


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## Tom (Aug 2, 2020)

I've been waiting for this thread! Thank you Mark.


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## Sleppo (Aug 2, 2020)

Looks great!


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## Tom (Aug 2, 2020)

@Markw84 I did the math. You could have saved a little over .01 cent per pound if you'd gone with the 90 pound bags instead...


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## Markw84 (Aug 2, 2020)

Tom said:


> @Markw84 I did the math. You could have saved a little over .01 cent per pound if you'd gone with the 90 pound bags instead...


Did you do the math... how much for chiropractor after??


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## Markw84 (Aug 2, 2020)

Maro2Bear said:


> It looks like you added in one of those solar-powered fountain sprayers. Nice touch.!


Brenda got that when she saw the pool sitting there full with no tortoises even in the enclosure yet

i actually like it!


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## NorCal tortoise guy (Aug 2, 2020)

So happy to see this thread. Always nice to see your work! I’m planning something similar soon and it will be very nice to have this to reference.


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## Lokkje (Aug 2, 2020)

I still want to move into your backyard.


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## ZEROPILOT (Aug 2, 2020)

Man
Just using that level would've eliminated most of my pond issues.
Nicely done


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## Markw84 (Aug 3, 2020)

Just thought I would add costs to doing this, as it is not that costly if you do concrete yourself. The cost to form and rent a mixer is more than the concrete:

It cost me right about $130 to do this build for the pool. I had the tools. So if you don't have a pool trowel you will need to add that in - about $30 for a texturing and polishing trowel at Lowes.

Concrete 14 60 lb bags - $50
Flexible resin edging for forming pool - $30
Concrete mixer rental Home depot 1 day - $50

For the amount of concrete needed, I go a little less in thickness for something like this than I would for a patio or walkway pour. I figure on about 3" thickness for my pour. That equates to about 2 sq ft per bag of concrete. My pool was roughly 6 ft in diameter. So π * r² for area of circle: 3*3 = 9*3.14=28.26 sq ft. So I needed 14 of the 60 lb bags.


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## ztgbrawler3 (Feb 19, 2022)

I'm curious as to how this is holding up? I've seen some other how-tos describe a thinset/mortar mix layer over top of the concrete to make it water-tight. Have you found that to be necessary?


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## Thomas tortoise (Feb 19, 2022)

Great pond! It really add a good touch to your backyard!?


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## Markw84 (Feb 19, 2022)

ztgbrawler3 said:


> I'm curious as to how this is holding up? I've seen some other how-tos describe a thinset/mortar mix layer over top of the concrete to make it water-tight. Have you found that to be necessary?


It has been over 1-1/2 years now and it is holding up perfectly. Not one crack. Holds water perfectly. Tortoises drinking a few times every day each. They do wade through it and like to stick their heads under water as they walk through, but they don't lay in the pool and rest like they will with a mud bottom pool.

Here's Darwin, now over 32 lbs and 2-1/2 years old just after a drink. Even though he's looking like "Who me? I didn't just drink!"


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## ztgbrawler3 (Feb 19, 2022)

Markw84 said:


> It has been over 1-1/2 years now and it is holding up perfectly. Not one crack. Holds water perfectly. Tortoises drinking a few times every day each. They do wade through it and like to stick their heads under water as they walk through, but they don't lay in the pool and rest like they will with a mud bottom pool.
> 
> Here's Darwin, now over 32 lbs and 2-1/2 years old just after a drink. Even though he's looking like "Who me? I didn't just drink!"
> 
> View attachment 340770


Awesome pic! Thanks for info. I'm up in Cincy, will get crackin' on mine as soon as it thaws out around here....


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## gep0322 (Feb 21, 2022)

ztgbrawler3 said:


> I'm curious as to how this is holding up? I've seen some other how-tos describe a thinset/mortar mix layer over top of the concrete to make it water-tight. Have you found that to be necessary?


Hello, I used marine epoxy, coated my cement casting real heavy. No problems with leaks.
Pro Marine 5:1 Boat Epoxy Kit – Our Total Penetrating Quart Fast Hardener – Marine Grade Epoxy Clear Repairs Wood, Aluminum, Paint, & Polyester Resin While Strengthening Fiberglass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MQ66LFB/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
Gerry


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## gep0322 (Feb 21, 2022)




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## Sarah2020 (Feb 21, 2022)

Markw84 said:


> I have been completely redoing my whole outdoor area where I kept my sulcatas, I have added lots and lots of plants since there is the ability to grow now without getting bulldozed over. Also some planters for sight barriers and more plants to cascade down into the area. One of the big changes is to incorporate a large concrete watering hole, or pool for self soaking. I want it about 6 feet in diameter, so it will be fairly large and require a bit of work. I thought it would be perhaps of interest to some, exactly how I go about the build.
> 
> Here is where I am putting the pool. It is fairly close to the lowest area in this yard where I have a drain. I wanted to put in a larger pipe to serve as a way to let gravity drain the pool for easy cleaning. I am completely topping the entire area with new topsoil and reseeding the entire area, so this is being done just prior to my doing that as my intent is to have a nice grass border growing over the pool edge. I first outline the pool area with a shovel cutting in the edge and leaving a fairly steep edge to the grass to facilitate new growth easily right up to the pool
> 
> ...


I have 2 of those solar fountains still boxed, you have given me an idea. Once the cold and wind blows away . Looks great . Lucky torts.


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## ztgbrawler3 (Feb 27, 2022)

gep0322 said:


> Hello, I used marine epoxy, coated my cement casting real heavy. No problems with leaks.
> Pro Marine 5:1 Boat Epoxy Kit – Our Total Penetrating Quart Fast Hardener – Marine Grade Epoxy Clear Repairs Wood, Aluminum, Paint, & Polyester Resin While Strengthening Fiberglass https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MQ66LFB/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
> Gerry


I thought about using some kind of epoxy; would definitely seal the concrete. I still have a can of Pond Armor somewhere. My only concern would be making the pond too slick for my torts to get out of, so I'd have to make the entrance/exit REALLY shallow.


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## Tom (Feb 27, 2022)

ztgbrawler3 said:


> I thought about using some kind of epoxy; would definitely seal the concrete. I still have a can of Pond Armor somewhere. My only concern would be making the pond too slick for my torts to get out of, so I'd have to make the entrance/exit REALLY shallow.


Pro-tip: When you apply the Pond Shield and it is still wet, sprinkle some large sand particles all over it before it cures. I do this in my night boxes and it works great.


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## SanctuaryHills (Jul 28, 2022)

Excellent write up. Definitely inspired me to build my own pond 

I hope you don't mind a couple of dumb questions:
How does your drain set up function? Is that 2" pipe sloped/routed to a previous drainage trench? If so, how do you operate the valve? 

Also since you opted to go with the rough texture and without a sealant, what are cleanups like? I assume you change the water regularly, but do D
Do you have some sort of chemical regimen or just let the algae build up for a natural look?


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## Markw84 (Jul 29, 2022)

SanctuaryHills said:


> Excellent write up. Definitely inspired me to build my own pond
> 
> I hope you don't mind a couple of dumb questions:
> How does your drain set up function? Is that 2" pipe sloped/routed to a previous drainage trench? If so, how do you operate the valve?
> ...


I do have a 2" pipe even with the lowest part of the pond for draining. The pipe flows by garivty to a drain I already had in my yard about 5 feet away from the pond. I put an extension of 2" pipe in the pond to extend up to where I want the water level. I have a 1" water line also set into the side of the pond that is on a sprinkler valve. That valve goes on every day midday for just 1 minute. I get 25 gal/min out of a 1" line, so that is enough water to create a nice circular motion in the pool and the water overflows into the drain until it gets back to the level of the overflow pipe. So every day I cycle some fresh water through the pond. I do pull out the extension and let the pond drain about once a month and then brush it out with a broom before refilling. No chemical. The water cycling every day has kept the water clean. Some debris does end up in the very bottom, but the water remains very clean. I also feel the water cycling with top drain-off eliminates any mosquito problem. I've never had any larva in the pond.


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## SanctuaryHills (Aug 16, 2022)

Well I tried my best to copy your master creation. Made a pond that's 8 inches deep at the center and the slope is gradual enough that all six of the young tortoises are able to easily get out (I "manually inserted" each one in the pond to make sure they could).

I still have to chisel out all the extra concrete that extends outside the pond perimeter for a clean edge and plant some plants around it. 

My main concern right now is figuring out how to best clean out the pond. I can run a hose on it every couple of days to keep the water fresh, but I still end up with a bunch of leaves and soil at the bottom. It doesn't seem that bad right now but eventually it's going to get really scummy. Any recommedations?


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## Markw84 (Aug 16, 2022)

SanctuaryHills said:


> Well I tried my best to copy your master creation. Made a pond that's 8 inches deep at the center and the slope is gradual enough that all six of the young tortoises are able to easily get out (I "manually inserted" each one in the pond to make sure they could).
> 
> I still have to chisel out all the extra concrete that extends outside the pond perimeter for a clean edge and plant some plants around it.
> 
> ...


Get a push broom and just sweep out the water every week or two. I only do mine about once a month and it doesn't get that bad at all. The fresh water daily cycling through and the drain I put in mine does help a lot. With the drain I just let the water empty and use a regular broom to brush off the algae that forms a bit, the refill.


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## Sarah2020 (Aug 16, 2022)

Looks good but wrong place as you have tree leaves! My suggestion.....A good hard yard brush will become your friend, a leaf blower or rake to get them away or they will be back when dried. Also look at clipping some tree directly above still maintaining shade but lessens the leaf fall. Well done for the installation.


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## SanctuaryHills (Aug 16, 2022)

Markw84 said:


> Get a push broom and just sweep out the water every week or two. I only do mine about once a month and it doesn't get that bad at all. The fresh water daily cycling through and the drain I put in mine does help a lot. With the drain I just let the water empty and use a regular broom to brush off the algae that forms a bit, the refill.


Yup the drainage pipe would have definitely been a great help. I suppose to clean it I'll first try to empty out as much as I can with a big bowl and then use a push broom to clean out the remaining water/scum. Maybe in the future I can come up with a better system to drain... Thank you a million by the way.


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## SanctuaryHills (Aug 16, 2022)

Sarah2020 said:


> Looks good but wrong place as you have tree leaves! My suggestion.....A good hard yard brush will become your friend, a leaf blower or rake to get them away or they will be back when dried. Also look at clipping some tree directly above still maintaining shade but lessens the leaf fall. Well done for the installation.



Yup I'm going to trim the tree a bit and rake any leaves that fall around the pond. 

Most importantly, I need to figure out some sort of shade loving groundcover that I can plant around the pond area. Whenever the water overflows it allows mud to "river" itself inside the pond. Grass doesn't seem to grow in there so I'll have to think of an alternative.


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