# Our new Closed Chamber for our new group of Tortoises



## Markw84 (Mar 14, 2016)

I have completed building a new enclosure for a new group of tortoises we are expecting to arrive the middle of this week. I wanted to go over the build to show what I did and how it is set up.

The enclosure is 3 foot x 8 foot by 2 foot high. It is built following @Tom enclosure plan as a general guideline.
I used 1/4" exterior grade, plug and sanded plywood to keep the weight down as much as possible, except the floor is 1/2". It is fully insulated with 1 1/2" Styrofoam insulation board between two layers of plywood. I used 2x2 boards for the frame (which are actually 1 1/2" x 1/1/2") so the insulation board fits perfectly between the plywood and ends up extremely stable and strong, despite using 1/4" plywood. I used 2x4 boards for the facing frame on front, I also built 4 - double pane glass doors for the front instead of tom's sliding style doors.

I painted the enclosure with a gloss enamel paint after sealing. This allow easy cleaning of the outside. The inside is sealed, all joints caulked, and then waterproofed with a few coats of a food grade counter top paint designed for food pre areas - so completely non toxic, yet completely seals and waterproofs the entire enclosure.



I am using fine grade orchid bark as the substrate. I have two humid hides - one in each back corner from black dish tubs purchased at Walmart with a hole cut in the side. I do have some prayer plants and spider plants for shelter, sight barrier, and food as they grow. I like to use very heavy 6" tall square and rectangular pots that are very stable and hard to move. The tortoises can reach up and browse on stuff that hangs over the sides, but cannot move the pots nor reach to the top.

I use clay saucers for water and feeding tray. The larger rectangular saucer is for the feeding station, while the large 14" round saucer is for water. I use 12" square pavers under the basking lights to create a nice warm spot for basking.



I built in a thermostat - the Inkbird dual mode model. I installed it directly into the enclosure and wired it to the heat - 2 100 watt CHE's. It controls the heat and also can be set to turn on cooling if the temperature gets too high. I have not set up a cooling mode yet as I want to see how things work out as temperatures.




The CHE's are in the large domes. The two smaller domes house 2 - 65 watt flood bulbs. The front fluorescent fixture is a 4' double t-8 fixture with two 6500K tubes. The back fluorescent behind the basking and heat is a 4' t-5 fixture with reflector with the HO 12% UVB. I have placed it at a height where my solar meter shows I am getting a solar index of 3.0 for basking. The CHE's are on the thermostat on constantly. The 65 watt basking floods and the double fluorescent 6500K bulbs are on a timer to turn on at 7AM and off at 8PM. The UVB is on a separate timer coming on at 11 AM and off at 3PM. I may actually cut that time down as I don't think they will need that much UVB exposure since vitamin D production happens so quickly with proper exposure. I've seen studies where 1000 IU of pre D3 per MINUTE is produced in the skin under full sun exposure. So and adequate dose takes just a few minutes. However, it does take a few hours of increased basking HEAT to complete the conversion from pre D to D3. So the basking lights stay on, but the UVB does not have to. Plus, they will have plenty of outside time here is Central California most of the year.




I do have a temperature / humidity sensor taped to the inside top of the humid hide that reads on the unit on top of the enclosure as well as showing the room temp and humidity. I have another thermometer / hygrometer mounted in the center back of the enclosure at substrate level with a probe hanging under that basking light at tortoise height. The thermostat probe is at the cool side set for 81f, so that is the cool side reading.

If you look closely, next to the thermometer in the back is two vertical slats of wood. I have a divider that slides in so I can separate into two areas if I need to.

Any comments and suggestions are appreciated. The new tortoises should arrive soon!


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## NDevon (Mar 14, 2016)

That looks like a really well built enclosure, a lot of effort and attention to detail. Nice work!


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## wellington (Mar 14, 2016)

Very nice work. The only thing I could add, is what kind of tortoise are you getting and how big of a group, the most important detail unless you stated it and I missed it


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## Tom (Mar 14, 2016)

I'm not just impressed. I am in awe. My hat is off and I bow to your construction prowess.

Every detail is perfect. I'd like to just come pick up three more just like it.


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## Markw84 (Mar 14, 2016)

wellington said:


> Very nice work. The only thing I could add, is what kind of tortoise are you getting and how big of a group, the most important detail unless you stated it and I missed it


I will post pictures when I get them settled in... 
2.3 sub adult Burmese Stars! A dream coming true!


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## wellington (Mar 14, 2016)

Woohoo, congrats


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## bouaboua (Mar 14, 2016)

WOW! ! ! ! !

This is nice! ! ! !

Can't wait to see who is the luck guy to occupy this such nice enclosure.


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## Momof4 (Mar 14, 2016)

Very impressive!! Now everything will be easy because you did it right the first time! Congratulations!!


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## naturalman91 (Mar 14, 2016)

whoa. very impressive build. im going to have to look into those temp controllers i love the built in look


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## Subersibo (Mar 17, 2016)

That is just beautiful! That built in thermometer is really cool.


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## Elyce (Mar 17, 2016)

So cool. Totally like a dream luxury tortoise home.


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## Redstrike (Mar 18, 2016)

This is one of the nicest closed chambers I have ever seen. Your construction is immaculate and your attention to detail is inspiring. Well done!

Do you know the maximum wattage heater that the thermostat can handle?


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## Anyfoot (Mar 18, 2016)

Markw84 said:


> I have completed building a new enclosure for a new group of tortoises we are expecting to arrive the middle of this week. I wanted to go over the build to show what I did and how it is set up.
> 
> The enclosure is 3 foot x 8 foot by 2 foot high. It is built following @Tom enclosure plan as a general guideline.
> I used 1/4" exterior grade, plug and sanded plywood to keep the weight down as much as possible, except the floor is 1/2". It is fully insulated with 1 1/2" Styrofoam insulation board between two layers of plywood. I used 2x2 boards for the frame (which are actually 1 1/2" x 1/1/2") so the insulation board fits perfectly between the plywood and ends up extremely stable and strong, despite using 1/4" plywood. I used 2x4 boards for the facing frame on front, I also built 4 - double pane glass doors for the front instead of tom's sliding style doors.
> ...


 Excellent work Mark. Really impressed, as usual.


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## Markw84 (Mar 19, 2016)

Redstrike said:


> This is one of the nicest closed chambers I have ever seen. Your construction is immaculate and your attention to detail is inspiring. Well done!
> 
> Do you know the maximum wattage heater that the thermostat can handle?


That thermostat is rated to handle up to 1000 watts as is but you could wire in a relay to handle more if needed


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## Cheryl Hills (Mar 19, 2016)

Nice enclosure. Your torts should be very happy!


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## Pearly (Mar 19, 2016)

Looks like commercially done in some factory where all kinds of machines and equipment is available. And I mean it in a good sense! Just doesn't look "make shift" or "hand made" at all!!!! This is one of those times when I wish I was born male, with stronger physique, then learning all kinds of handiwork would make more sense. Well, I should be grateful for my other skills and many of them... Still..., I'd love to be able to build something like that! You could keep that in your living room!!!


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## naturalman91 (Mar 19, 2016)

Markw84 said:


> That thermostat is rated to handle up to 1000 watts as is but you could wire in a relay to handle more if needed



was it hard to wire up? i have no electrical knowledge but wanna get one of these


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## Markw84 (Mar 19, 2016)

It's really simple once you get which wire goes where. Let me know when you're ready and I'll post how to do it


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## Maggie Cummings (Mar 19, 2016)

You wanted comments??? Here's mine...holy sh*t!!! I also am in awe, for the enclosures and the species of tortoises. I'll have to stop in and see that in person next time I go visit my sis. That is if I had an invitation....


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## Markw84 (Mar 19, 2016)

maggie3fan said:


> You wanted comments??? Here's mine...holy sh*t!!! I also am in awe, for the enclosures and the species of tortoises. I'll have to stop in and see that in person next time I go visit my sis. That is if I had an invitation....


You would be welcome. Just let us know when you're around.


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## Tom (Mar 19, 2016)

Pearly said:


> Looks like commercially done in some factory where all kinds of machines and equipment is available. And I mean it in a good sense! Just doesn't look "make shift" or "hand made" at all!!!! This is one of those times when I wish I was born male, with stronger physique, then learning all kinds of handiwork would make more sense. Well, I should be grateful for my other skills and many of them... Still..., I'd love to be able to build something like that! You could keep that in your living room!!!



Hey. There are lots of ladies with some serious building skills. Don't sell yourself short. Just like any man, you will make mistakes at first and learn as you go. I can guarantee this is not the first enclosure Mark has built.


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## Rue (Mar 19, 2016)

Odds are, hubby and I will build our permanent indoor table...and it will be functional and fine...but rather rough around the edges...

But my daughter's BF's Dad is a carpenter...and I really really REALLY want to ask him to build us something...lol...it will be a lot nicer.

I just don't want to pester or impose on him...no need to alienate the potential future in-laws...

I might reconsider if/when we get to know them better...so I reserve the right to change my mind...several times...


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## Maggie Cummings (Mar 19, 2016)

Markw84 said:


> You would be welcome. Just let us know when you're around.



You do know that Yvonne is my sister, and I see her as often as I can. It's not super often, but I drive right thru Sacramento and surrounding area kinda regularly. Just sayin.....


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## Markw84 (Mar 20, 2016)

Yes I had put that together from other posts. I would like to see Yvonne's collection of tortoises sometime too!


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## Markw84 (Mar 28, 2016)

I've been asked for a bit more detail on how I actually assembled and painted this enclosure, so thought I would add some detail and layouts for the actual build of this project.

I did not build the frame first, but built each panel, then assembled. Here are the cut layouts and panel detail is used to create my material list and build the actual unit. I use 1/4 plywood that is plugged and sanded. For the bottom piece only, I use 1/2 plywood. All frames are 2x2. The front face frame is 2x4.

The plans do not show the 4 x 9 air vents I built into each side panel for ventilation in the warmer months. I simply framed out a 4 x 9 (inside) rectangle out of 2 x 2's and cut out the foam insulation to go around those vent locations in each side.

Here's my cut sheets for my plywood. 4 sheets of 1/4 and one sheet of 1/2






Here's the build sheet for my panels.



By building the panels first, I could get the insulation board sandwiched between the 1/4 plywood with everything lying flat, then assemble the sides to the bottom piece. I did not insulate the bottom since it has a nice layer of orchid bark that will cover it - so the bottom is a single layer of 1/2 plywood.

I GLUED EVERYTHING and nailed in place with a pneumatic brad nail gun, using 1-1/8 nails. So if you happen to have a nail gun, it makes assembly so easy without having to hold things in place while you pound it with a hammer!

I used 2x4 to make the front face. Simply a 2x4 spanning the entire front, inside the plywood on all sides. I put a 2x4 right in the middle of the front span to break the front into two openings. Because I use swinging doors that fit inside the face frame, I use 1/4 plywood that extends about 3/4" beyond the edge of the 2x4's, creating a lip inside the opening the doors can shut against. This also created an easy way to secure the middle 2x4 spanning from the bottom to top. Here's a detail of the 1/4" back piece for the front face. Remember to keep the top piece of 1/4 plywood down 1-3/4" from the top edge to leave room for the enclosure top panel to slide down in place, since I do not put the top on until after I paint the inside.




I actually did not put the top in place until after I sealed and painted the entire inside for easier access for painting. (including the inside of the top piece) Once the inside was painted, I assembled, then sanded the entire outside to smooth out any variances in how the edges met using a belt sander. With 1/4 plywood, it is easy to smooth out the edges quite quickly that way. I'm a little picky in how things look, so I also use wood filler to fill in any gaps or nicks and gouges in the wood before sealing and painting. For the outside I use a gloss enamel paint. I used Valspar interior/exterior gloss latex enamel.

I also did a lot of research and looking for best paint options for inside. I have fiberglassed some before, but have now ended up using this countertop paint. It is simply Rustoleum's Counter Top paint. I have them tint it to the "haystack" color. I apply a coat of sealer first. I do then caulk all the seams with a paintable waterproof caulk. I apply 2 generous coats of the counter top paint, with a 3rd coat on the bottom and a few inches up the sides. That does make it pretty much waterproof, (although not waterproof to the extent I would use for a turtle enclosure that actually holds water. I use fiberglass for that.) But for this application with the tortoise enclosure, it does great even with the amounts of water I just dump in the enclosure to keep the orchid bark damp.

For doors, I like the look of swinging doors fit inside the face frame. This is the hardest part of the build, so you can just opt for sliding style doors like Tom's build uses. I took the time to make 4 doors with 2x2 frames. I mitered each corner, and then cut two 5/8" blade cuts on each inside side of the frame pieces for the glass panes to fit in. I then sealed and painted each frame piece first! I used window glass cut 3/4" larger than the inside dimensions of each door frame. I have also used acrylic and like both. Acrylic is more expensive, but no breaking problems. Once they're together it's not an issue, but in assembly, you need to take caution with glass. I assembled by sliding the glass panes in while clamping the painted frame pieces frame in place. I glued and doweled each corner. It is VERY important to make your doors AT LEAST 3/8" smaller than the opening the door will fit into. With all the humidity in the enclosure, the door frames will swell. If you make them fit too tight, it will create a problem just trying to get them open. With the lip on the back of the door frames, you will have a nice seal, so don't worry about making the doors fit so tight they will bind. I hang the doors with self closing hinges. Be careful when mounting the hinges to the doors, you do not hit the glass with the screws!

Good luck if you decide to tackle a project like this. Let me know if you have any additional questions. I know it is definitely easier once you've built a few, so feel free to ask. As @Tom had commented earlier - this is not my first attempt! I learned from plenty of mistakes.


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## Rue (Mar 28, 2016)

I am planning my permanent indoor enclosure...for my one and only Hermann's (for when she's big enough).

For plywood I have used marine paint (oil based) Super tough once it's fully cured (used for our chicken coop - which we hose out and disinfect and which is subject to messy chicken water spills, etc., and on horse jumps, etc.). So I was waffling between that, and trying linseed oil (and also letting it cure fully). Those were my two options...for either a painted - or a natural - look.

Have you tried either one?

I never thought of using counter top paint.


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## Markw84 (Mar 28, 2016)

Rue said:


> I am planning my permanent indoor enclosure...for my one and only Hermann's (for when she's big enough).
> 
> For plywood I have used marine paint (oil based) Super tough once it's fully cured (used for our chicken coop - which we hose out and disinfect and which is subject to messy chicken water spills, etc., and on horse jumps, etc.). So I was waffling between that, and trying linseed oil (and also letting it cure fully). Those were my two options...for either a painted - or a natural - look.
> 
> ...


I'm always afraid of chemicals paint leaches out. So I always tend towards something geared for aquarium/pond use or food safe areas. In an enclosed chamber that stays humid, I just feel safer that way. There's just such limited ventilation in these chambers, I want to be extremely cautious. Even with the countertop paint, I don't close up and use the chamber for at least a 7 days cure/ventilation of the painted surfaces.


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## Melissa N (Jul 22, 2016)

Markw84 said:


> I have completed building a new enclosure for a new group of tortoises we are expecting to arrive the middle of this week. I wanted to go over the build to show what I did and how it is set up.
> 
> The enclosure is 3 foot x 8 foot by 2 foot high. It is built following @Tom enclosure plan as a general guideline.
> I used 1/4" exterior grade, plug and sanded plywood to keep the weight down as much as possible, except the floor is 1/2". It is fully insulated with 1 1/2" Styrofoam insulation board between two layers of plywood. I used 2x2 boards for the frame (which are actually 1 1/2" x 1/1/2") so the insulation board fits perfectly between the plywood and ends up extremely stable and strong, despite using 1/4" plywood. I used 2x4 boards for the facing frame on front, I also built 4 - double pane glass doors for the front instead of tom's sliding style doors.
> ...




Wow! That is SO impressive! Great job!


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## wellington (Jul 22, 2016)

Okay, did the inhabitants get to you yet? I don't remember seeing them and they haven't been updated on this thread yet


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## Yvonne G (Jul 22, 2016)

@Markw84 ???????


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## Markw84 (Jul 22, 2016)

Sorry about that! I have posted some pictures of them in other posts, and forgot to update here. I do a bit more later, but for now - here they are at feeding time yesterday.
From Top center clockwise = Betelgeuse, Vega, Mira, Sirius, Rigel


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## MysticCaribou (Jul 22, 2016)

Markw84 said:


> Sorry about that! I have posted some pictures of them in other posts, and forgot to update here. I do a bit more later, but for now - here they are at feeding time yesterday.
> From Top center clockwise = Betelgeuse, Vega, Mira, Sirius, Rigel
> 
> View attachment 181024




Great photograph. Beautiful Tortoises! Thank you. Will forever be impressed with your closed chamber.


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## kelii (Jul 24, 2016)

Did you wire the fluorescent lights yourself? I'm trying to figure out how to do that for the enclosure I want to build.


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## kathyth (Jul 24, 2016)

That enclosure is beyond beautiful. You did a great Job!! Wow!!


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## Maverick (Jul 25, 2016)

Markw84 said:


> Sorry about that! I have posted some pictures of them in other posts, and forgot to update here. I do a bit more later, but for now - here they are at feeding time yesterday.
> From Top center clockwise = Betelgeuse, Vega, Mira, Sirius, Rigel
> 
> View attachment 181024


Love the star names..... Astronomy is my other hobby.


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## Markw84 (Jul 25, 2016)

Maverick said:


> Love the star names..... Astronomy is my other hobby.


You're the first to comment on that. After all, they are Stars! I loved all the natural sciences. Definitely astronomy. The Burmese are a beautiful example of geometry in nature!


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## G-stars (Jul 25, 2016)

Markw84 said:


> Sorry about that! I have posted some pictures of them in other posts, and forgot to update here. I do a bit more later, but for now - here they are at feeding time yesterday.
> From Top center clockwise = Betelgeuse, Vega, Mira, Sirius, Rigel
> 
> View attachment 181024



They look beautiful. Hadn't seen them from that angle yet. That top middle one has some really wide stripes there. Mind sharing more pics of that one I'd love to see them.


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## Zackius (Oct 30, 2016)

Markw84.....I am getting ready to build a closed chamber. What brand of food counter top paint did you use? Also, did you paint the entire inide of the chamber? Three coats?..................thanks


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## Markw84 (Oct 31, 2016)

Zackius said:


> Markw84.....I am getting ready to build a closed chamber. What brand of food counter top paint did you use? Also, did you paint the entire inide of the chamber? Three coats?..................thanks


Yes, I paint the entire inside of the chamber. Two coats worked well on the last chamber I just finished a few weeks ago. I built it identical to this one and it sits on top of this chamber as I wanted to separate the males from females as they are getting much larger now, and I added 3 more to the group. It is Rustoleum counter top paint. As I mentioned in the original post, it is a food safe paint for countertops that can be used for food prep areas. (My first chamber I built with this method was smaller and done about 18 months ago. I just cleaned and moved it with the completion of my last chamber a few weeks ago, and not a bit of deterioration to the paint surface - with the water poured over the substrate constantly). I do give it a week to totally cure before closing up and using. I Paint the insides before mounting the doors, then paint the outside while it all cures for the week.

Just made me think it would be good to post the current setup so went and took this picture just now...


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## Anyfoot (Oct 31, 2016)

Markw84 said:


> Yes, I paint the entire inside of the chamber. Two coats worked well on the last chamber I just finished a few weeks ago. I built it identical to this one and it sits on top of this chamber as I wanted to separate the males from females as they are getting much larger now, and I added 3 more to the group. It is Rustoleum counter top paint. As I mentioned in the original post, it is a food safe paint for countertops that can be used for food prep areas. (My first chamber I built with this method was smaller and done about 18 months ago. I just cleaned and moved it with the completion of my last chamber a few weeks ago, and not a bit of deterioration to the paint surface - with the water poured over the substrate constantly). I do give it a week to totally cure before closing up and using. I Paint the insides before mounting the doors, then paint the outside while it all cures for the week.
> 
> Just made me think it would be good to post the current setup so went and took this picture just now...
> 
> View attachment 190971


1st class that Mark. I like it alot.


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## Markw84 (Oct 31, 2016)

Zackius said:


> Markw84.....I am getting ready to build a closed chamber. What brand of food counter top paint did you use? Also, did you paint the entire inide of the chamber? Three coats?..................thanks


Need to add... Be sure to prime it first with a good latex primer.

So for more detail...
I paint the entire enclosure in and out with a good latex primer.
I then use a paintable caulking and caulk all the inside edges / corners.
Then two coats of Rustolem countertop paint on the inside.

I do fill all gaps and blemishes on the outside with a wood filler and sand smooth. (because I am anal and love things looking perfect!)
That is before sealing the outside.
Then paint the outside with two coats of a good latex gloss enamel.

Hope that helps.


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## Markw84 (Oct 31, 2016)

Anther learning I thought I would add...

If you go with doors as I have...
The wood for the doors do swell with all the humidity, so I have learned to make the doors about 3/8" smaller than the opening.
I use a strip of 1/4" plywood and attach to the entire inside opening of the enclosure with about 5/8" lip created for the opening for the doors to close against.
If you look at the picture above, you can see light coming through the center section of the top enclosure I did first, but no light with the middle, newer enclosure.
Either way works just fine, but the lip makes a much better application.


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## Zackius (Oct 31, 2016)

So very helpful...thanks so much. Your enclosures are awesome.......


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## Zackius (Nov 4, 2016)

Sorry...another question. What type of opening do you have to allow for all the electrical cords to enter the enclosure?


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## bouaboua (Nov 4, 2016)

Still very much enjoyed second time around.


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## Fredkas (Nov 4, 2016)

Markw84 said:


> Anther learning I thought I would add...
> 
> If you go with doors as I have...
> The wood for the doors do swell with all the humidity, so I have learned to make the doors about 3/8" smaller than the opening.
> ...


Crazy beautifull.. but can i going a bit off topic, what is the plant name in the middle of the enclosure? can tort eat it? i have that plant at house and never know the name and doubt my tort can eat it.


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## Diamond (Nov 4, 2016)

Beautiful. Those are going to be some happy torts!


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## Markw84 (Nov 5, 2016)

Fredkas said:


> Crazy beautifull.. but can i going a bit off topic, what is the plant name in the middle of the enclosure? can tort eat it? i have that plant at house and never know the name and doubt my tort can eat it.


That is one of the many varieties of coleus. And the tortoises love it and it is listed as a good tortoise food. I grow lots if it outside in planters and the garden along with lots of petunias and normally add it to the tortoises' food. The coleus grows well in the enclosure. In enclosures,I use spider plants, coleus, pothus ivy, and prayer plants. The pothus grows well in low light and does great in enclosures. A very common houseplant, it creates great overhanging cover the tortoises love to hide in. The small leafed coleus you are asking about does the same and is denser. The prayer plants is the tougher to keep healthy. The broad leaves and upright growth burns easily under the basking or CHE's.


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## Fredkas (Nov 5, 2016)

Markw84 said:


> That is one of the many varieties of coleus. And the tortoises love it and it is listed as a good tortoise food. I grow lots if it outside in planters and the garden along with lots of petunias and normally add it to the tortoises' food. The coleus grows well in the enclosure. In enclosures,I use spider plants, coleus, pothus ivy, and prayer plants. The pothus grows well in low light and does great in enclosures. A very common houseplant, it creates great overhanging cover the tortoises love to hide in. The small leafed coleus you are asking about does the same and is denser. The prayer plants is the tougher to keep healthy. The broad leaves and upright growth burns easily under the basking or CHE's.


Wow thanks for such a detail information!! i should press 100 times of likes.


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## ERoss (Sep 2, 2017)

Markw84 said:


> I have completed building a new enclosure for a new group of tortoises we are expecting to arrive the middle of this week. I wanted to go over the build to show what I did and how it is set up.
> 
> The enclosure is 3 foot x 8 foot by 2 foot high. It is built following @Tom enclosure plan as a general guideline.
> I used 1/4" exterior grade, plug and sanded plywood to keep the weight down as much as possible, except the floor is 1/2". It is fully insulated with 1 1/2" Styrofoam insulation board between two layers of plywood. I used 2x2 boards for the frame (which are actually 1 1/2" x 1/1/2") so the insulation board fits perfectly between the plywood and ends up extremely stable and strong, despite using 1/4" plywood. I used 2x4 boards for the facing frame on front, I also built 4 - double pane glass doors for the front instead of tom's sliding style doors.
> ...



Wow that is incredible! I'm about a year off from getting a sulcata but have been looking at ideas for an indoor enclosure. This is super helpful thank you so much!


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## no one (Sep 20, 2017)

That is some serious building. Wauw!!! And all for those gorgeous Burmese Star Tortoises. I love it!!! 

Thank you Tom for pointing this thread out to me.


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## Lori lawson (Nov 25, 2017)

Markw84 said:


> I have completed building a new enclosure for a new group of tortoises we are expecting to arrive the middle of this week. I wanted to go over the build to show what I did and how it is set up.
> 
> The enclosure is 3 foot x 8 foot by 2 foot high. It is built following @Tom enclosure plan as a general guideline.
> I used 1/4" exterior grade, plug and sanded plywood to keep the weight down as much as possible, except the floor is 1/2". It is fully insulated with 1 1/2" Styrofoam insulation board between two layers of plywood. I used 2x2 boards for the frame (which are actually 1 1/2" x 1/1/2") so the insulation board fits perfectly between the plywood and ends up extremely stable and strong, despite using 1/4" plywood. I used 2x4 boards for the facing frame on front, I also built 4 - double pane glass doors for the front instead of tom's sliding style doors.
> ...


What website or store did you get the counter top paint from?


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## Jay Bagley (Nov 25, 2017)

Lori lawson said:


> What website or store did you get the counter top paint from?


You did a great job, thank you for posting the details of your build.


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## CarolM (Dec 12, 2017)

Wow, That is beautiful.


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## TurtleGrandma (Dec 14, 2017)

Do you have any ventilation holes in the back, or is it totally sealed, no venting?


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## Markw84 (Dec 14, 2017)

TurtleGrandma said:


> Do you have any ventilation holes in the back, or is it totally sealed, no venting?


I did build these with a ventilation opening on each end. But I have them blocked off and do not need the ventilation.


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## Alex Z (Dec 31, 2017)

Beautifully built!! What a glorious home.


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## BeeBee*BeeLeaves (Mar 11, 2018)

Just now seeing this, and it's amazing!
Goal.


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