# Best UVB bulb out there



## rostykochergen (Apr 30, 2020)

Hi everyone!

I’m upgrading my baby tortoise cage to a bigger area. I have one baby Greek tortoise about 8 weeks old. I’m upgrading his tort table.. and just realized I might need another uvb bulb for the other side. 

I currently have a basking bulb as well as a mercury bulb for heat + uvb. I also read that the coiled UVB bulbs are not good for tortoises? What are some good UVB ONLY bulbs that works for baby tortoises? Thanks!!

rosty k.


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## iAmCentrochelys sulcata (May 1, 2020)

I use a Zoomed Reptisun T8 and a CHE I also have Mercury bulb containing UVB and UVA. Coil Bulbs are Bad you need to stay away from Them, I’ll link some “good” UVB lights.









ZOO MED T8 ReptiSun 10.0 UVB Fluorescent Lamp, 18-in - Chewy.com


Buy Zoo Med T8 ReptiSun 10.0 UVB Fluorescent Lamp, 18-in at Chewy.com. FREE shipping and the BEST customer service!




www.chewy.com


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## Yvonne G (May 1, 2020)

I recently learned that the Mercury Vapor Bulb (that I had in all my enclosures) was drying out the tortoises' shells and contributing to pyramiding. So I've switched to T-5 fluorescent UVBs.


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## iAmCentrochelys sulcata (May 1, 2020)

Yvonne G said:


> I recently learned that the Mercury Vapor Bulb (that I had in all my enclosures) was drying out the tortoises' shells and contributing to pyramiding. So I've switched to T-5 fluorescent UVBs.


That’s odd I have Mercury Bulb and a T8 plus a CHE. I spray the enclosure and the shell several times a day Humidity 80% and no Signs of Pyramiding.


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## rostykochergen (May 1, 2020)

iAmCentrochelys sulcata said:


> I use a Zoomed Reptisun T8 and a CHE I also have Mercury bulb containing UVB and UVA. Coil Bulbs are Bad you need to stay away from Them, I’ll link some “good” UVB lights.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



I have a mercury bulb now as well as a basking bulb. What about a bulb that screws into a lamp? I don’t want to buy a new lamp.. especially not those long ones that are $50+.


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## iAmCentrochelys sulcata (May 1, 2020)

rostykochergen said:


> I have a mercury bulb now as well as a basking bulb. What about a bulb that screws into a lamp? I don’t want to buy a new lamp.. especially not those long ones that are $50+.


You’re Asking us What’s UVB Bulbs are good Right? We are telling which ones...


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## Tom (May 1, 2020)

iAmCentrochelys sulcata said:


> That’s odd I have Mercury Bulb and a T8 plus a CHE. I spray the enclosure and the shell several times a day Humidity 80% and no Signs of Pyramiding.


Give it time. This happens slowly. You'll really start to see it at about the six month mark, if not sooner.


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## iAmCentrochelys sulcata (May 1, 2020)

Tom said:


> Give it time. This happens slowly. You'll really start to see it at about the six month mark, if not sooner.


I’ll see... I can’t get temperature up with just a T8 and a CHE.


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## Tom (May 1, 2020)

rostykochergen said:


> I have a mercury bulb now as well as a basking bulb. What about a bulb that screws into a lamp? I don’t want to buy a new lamp.. especially not those long ones that are $50+.


Unfortunately the long tubes are the best UV source, which is what you've asked for here. Mercury vapor bulbs, cfl types, halogens and spots, should all be avoided. For a Mediterranean species like yours, the BEST strategy is low wattage incandescent flood bulb set on a timer, with the height adjusted to get the correct basking temperature under it, and a HO type florescent tube for UV. The ZooMed 10.0 HO works, but I prefer the Arcadia 12% HO tubes.

Night heat shouldn't be needed unless your house drops into the 50's at night.

Here is some good news: I don't know where in CA you are, but if your climate is reasonably nice, you should make a safe outdoor enclosure, and your tortoise's UV needs can be met by putting it in the outdoor enclosure for an hour a couple of times a week or more. It doesn't take much, and its fine if you have to skip a few weeks of UV during a cold rainy winter spell. They store D3 in their bodies, so they don't need UV all day every day. This indoor/outdoor combo has lots of benefits, and its my preferred method for raising babies of any species over all. If you go this way, all you would need is your 65 watt flood bulb on a timer for basking. That's it! Since you already have another fixture there, you could use a screw in type LED bulb for more light if you wanted. If you add the LED for light, get one in the 5000K color range. This info will be on the package at the store. The LED can run on the same timer as your basking bulb, or if you want to get really fancy, set the LED on its own timer to come on a couple hours after the basking bulb, and turn off a couple hours before the basking bulb. This would somewhat simulate the brighter light of mid day vs. dawn and dusk.


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## Tom (May 1, 2020)

iAmCentrochelys sulcata said:


> I’ll see... I can’t get temperature up with just a T8 and a CHE.


First, a T8 is not doing much for UV. Even a closely mounted 10.0 bulb that is brand new makes hardly any measurable UV. We are talking 1.1 from 10 inches away, vs. 7.0 from 20 inches away on an Arcadia 12% HO tube. Your T8 makes nice white light so the tortoise knows its day time, but it isn't doing much other than that.

Your CHE should be able to maintain ambient all by itself with no other bulbs on. How else can it maintain the correct temps at night when the house is at it coldest and all the other lights are off? If your CHE can't keep up, then you need a higher wattage one, or you need to add a second one to spread the heat out more. Or you need to close it all in better so less heat is escaping.

Your basking bulb should be a regular incandescent flood bulb. Use the lowest wattage possible that will still give you the correct basking temperature under it. I prefer a 65 watt flood, and I adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under it.

@rostykochergen Sorry to put all this on your thread, but people reading this might gain something useful from it. iAmCentrochelys sulcata has a tropical species, so ambient and night heat are much more critical than for temperate species like your Testudo.


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## iAmCentrochelys sulcata (May 1, 2020)

Tom said:


> First, a T8 is not doing much for UV. Even a closely mounted 10.0 bulb that is brand new makes hardly any measurable UV. We are talking 1.1 from 10 inches away, vs. 7.0 from 20 inches away on an Arcadia 12% HO tube. Your T8 makes nice white light so the tortoise knows its day time, but it isn't doing much other than that.
> 
> Your CHE should be able to maintain ambient all by itself with no other bulbs on. How else can it maintain the correct temps at night when the house is at it coldest and all the other lights are off? If your CHE can't keep up, then you need a higher wattage one, or you need to add a second one to spread the heat out more. Or you need to close it all in better so less heat is escaping.
> 
> ...


I have a Sulcata... I have a 100 watt CHE it doesn’t do much I also have a 50 Watt. I’ll do what I can I’ll take the Mercury away I’ll add another CHE.


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## Tom (May 1, 2020)

iAmCentrochelys sulcata said:


> I have a Sulcata... I have a 100 watt CHE it doesn’t do much I also have a 50 Watt. I’ll do what I can I’ll take the Mercury away I’ll add another CHE.


Replace the MVB with and incandescent flood. Use both CHEs on the same thermostat. If they aren't working, reconsider the placement of your thermostat's probe, or reconsider the type of enclosure that you are using that allows all that heat to escape.


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## iAmCentrochelys sulcata (May 1, 2020)

Tom said:


> Replace the MVB with and incandescent flood. Use both CHEs on the same thermostat. If they aren't working, reconsider the placement of your thermostat's probe, or reconsider that type of enclosure that you are using that allows all that heat to escape.


I’m currently using a 50 Gallon tote, which has a lid. I have replaced the MVB with a Heat bulb for this moment it’s low Wattage. 
I’ll be thinking before Talking from now on, Thanks Tom for pulling me to the side.


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## rostykochergen (May 1, 2020)

Tom said:


> Give it time. This happens slowly. You'll really start to see it at about the six month mark, if not sooner.



So mercury bulbs are no good? Almost every website and forums I’ve read said those are the best bulbs to use.. I’ll look into a UVB hood. Now what’s a good heating/basking bulb if I can’t use a mercury bulb?


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## Kapidolo Farms (May 1, 2020)

Short answer to the OP's primary question, *T5 HO Arcadia*. There is a Facebook group called reptile lighting. Fran Baines is a lead mod there and many people from all over the world report on tubes, outputs, longevity etc. That would be the consensus. I like ZooMed products to a great extend for direct quality reasons and even more so because the owner puts 100's of k's in $ back into the fun of having pets by lobbying against restrictive laws on what we do. But in this case I think the Arcadia tubes excel.


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## rostykochergen (May 1, 2020)

iAmCentrochelys sulcata said:


> I’m currently using a 50 Gallon tote, which has a lid. I have replaced the MVB with a Heat bulb for this moment it’s low Wattage.
> I’ll be thinking before Talking from now on, Thanks Tom for pulling me to the side.


 Another dumb question. I found a Zilla uvb hood on amazon for cheap. Can I use the Zoo Ames reptisun bulb for Zilla products?


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## rostykochergen (May 1, 2020)

rostykochergen said:


> Another dumb question. I found a Zilla uvb hood on amazon for cheap. Can I use the Zoo Ames reptisun bulb for Zilla products?


Zoo med^^


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## ZEROPILOT (May 1, 2020)

rostykochergen said:


> I have a mercury bulb now as well as a basking bulb. What about a bulb that screws into a lamp? I don’t want to buy a new lamp.. especially not those long ones that are $50+.


Any UVB that screws in like a light bulb is something that I would avoid.
Buy one of these...Itll last a long time and eventually with prove to be cheaper because there will be no issues.
Arcadia also has a similar lamp.


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## Tom (May 1, 2020)

rostykochergen said:


> So mercury bulbs are no good? Almost every website and forums I’ve read said those are the best bulbs to use.. I’ll look into a UVB hood. Now what’s a good heating/basking bulb if I can’t use a mercury bulb?


Correct. MVBs have all sorts of problems. They burn out prematurely. Their internal heat sensors often shut them off prematurely and keep them off. They are delicate. Some of them stop producing UV after less than 3 months. My main problem with them is that they cause tortoises to pyramid by drying out the carapace.

There are four elements to heating and lighting:

Basking bulb. I use 65 watt floods from the hardware store. I run them on a timer for 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. You can mount a fixture on the ceiling, or hang a dome lamp from the ceiling. Go lower or higher wattage if this makes the enclosure too hot or not warm enough. Do not use "spot" bulbs, mercury vapor bulbs or halogen bulbs.
Ambient heat maintenance. Unless your house gets unusually cold at night, you can skip this step for a Russian or other Testudo species. Night lows above 60 require no night heat for Testudo species.
Light. I use florescent tubes for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most tubes at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. I've been using LEDs lately and they are great, and run cooler than a florescent. This can be set on the same timer as the basking bulb. If your tortoises room is already adequately lit, you don't need this one either.
UV. If you can get your tortoise outside in a safe secure enclosure for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. If you want it anyway, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. It helps to have a UV meter to test and see what your bulb is actually putting out at your mounting height. Plexi-glass or screen tops will filter out some or all of the UV produced by your bulb. Regular "T 8" type UV tubes produce hardly any UV. CFL type UV bulbs are also ineffective, and sometimes dangerous, and should not be used.


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