# Concern about russian tortoise hatchling



## animalgod123 (Nov 10, 2016)

Hi everyone,

I recently got a new Russian tortoise hatchling a few days ago from a breeder. When it arrived it looked tired and weak and wouldn't open its eyes. It hardly moved either. I give it daily baths and try to feed it every day but it will not eat so for this I am really concerned. I had it out of its enclosure today and it was much active and walking around but still would not eat. Also another concern is that on its shell it is rough and has sort of a dry cracked white skin look to it (as seen in the picture). Any advice on what I should do? Thank you


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## tortoishell (Nov 13, 2016)

I'm definitely not a tortoise expert, and I expect a more experienced member like Yvonne or Tom will come and advise you. 
On another thread, it was recommended to put carrot baby food into the water. 
What are the temps in the enclosure? What lighting do you use? For the cracked shell, maybe one of those shell oils if it's just dry. I'm not sure if that's the solution, probably wait for a second opinion.


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## Yvonne G (Nov 13, 2016)

I would make sure the seller is aware of the problem.

Soak the baby daily in warm water for at least 15 minutes. Re-read the Russian tortoise care sheet, especially this one that talks more about babies: http://www.tortoiseforum.org/thread...or-other-herbivorous-tortoise-species.107734/ ...and make sure your baby's habitat is set up according to the care sheet. Double check the temperatures all over the habitat at floor level, and cover it to keep the warm air in and the cooler air from the house out. 

I think the daily soaks will help that dry-looking shell. The rough surface is how most baby Russians look at that young age.


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## JoesMum (Nov 13, 2016)

Hello and welcome. 

Inactivity is almost invariably caused by the enclosure temperatures being wrong. 

Your tort needs 35C/95-100F directly under the basking lamp at floor level. Temperature is best measured with a gun type thermometer like this

There are 4 important temperatures you must know: Warm side, cool side, directly under the basking lamp and overnight minimum. What do you have?

Pictures of your enclosure and lighting will help us to spot any other problems. 

Have you read the threads written by TFO experts on caring for Russians?

Beginner Mistakes 
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

Baby Russian Care
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/thread...or-other-herbivorous-tortoise-species.107734/

Russian Tortoise Care
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/


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## Maggie Cummings (Nov 13, 2016)

For reasons nobody needs to know, but Bob was dug up about 6-8 months after he died. His scutes came off and have those exact same white squiggle lines on their underside, and @Yvonne G why is the carapace between his scutes so high. It kinda looks like he lost his scutes. But then, I only have had adult Russians......


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## Yvonne G (Nov 13, 2016)

Sometimes when they're kept too dry the new growth seems to be higher than the existing shell parts.


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## Tom (Nov 13, 2016)

Like others have said, we need to know more about your temps, housing and lighting.

Have you read these:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

There are probably some answers in there for you.


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## animalgod123 (Nov 13, 2016)

tortoishell said:


> I'm definitely not a tortoise expert, and I expect a more experienced member like Yvonne or Tom will come and advise you.
> On another thread, it was recommended to put carrot baby food into the water.
> What are the temps in the enclosure? What lighting do you use? For the cracked shell, maybe one of those shell oils if it's just dry. I'm not sure if that's the solution, probably wait for a second opinion.


After a few days of daily soaks the shell is starting to look better. The temperature on the hot side is 95 degrees and the temperature on the cool side is 75 degrees.


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## animalgod123 (Nov 13, 2016)

Yvonne G said:


> I would make sure the seller is aware of the problem.
> 
> Soak the baby daily in warm water for at least 15 minutes. Re-read the Russian tortoise care sheet, especially this one that talks more about babies: http://www.tortoiseforum.org/thread...or-other-herbivorous-tortoise-species.107734/ ...and make sure your baby's habitat is set up according to the care sheet. Double check the temperatures all over the habitat at floor level, and cover it to keep the warm air in and the cooler air from the house out.
> 
> I think the daily soaks will help that dry-looking shell. The rough surface is how most baby Russians look at that young age.


Thank you this helped a lot I made adjustments to the enclosure so with this I hope she will start to get better. What do you recommend for food wise? My little one isn't eating much and the seller said it was eating romaine lettuce before I got it. I also recently ordered mazuri tortoise food because that was also recommend by the seller.


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## animalgod123 (Nov 13, 2016)

JoesMum said:


> Hello and welcome.
> 
> Inactivity is almost invariably caused by the enclosure temperatures being wrong.
> 
> ...


Yes I have read those threads and have made adjustments to my enclosure. The warm side is 95 degrees while the cool side is 75 degrees.


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## Yvonne G (Nov 13, 2016)

animalgod123 said:


> Thank you this helped a lot I made adjustments to the enclosure so with this I hope she will start to get better. What do you recommend for food wise? My little one isn't eating much and the seller said it was eating romaine lettuce before I got it. I also recently ordered mazuri tortoise food because that was also recommend by the seller.



To get it started, use a lot of romaine because that's what the tortoise is used to. Then in a week or so, start adding other, more nutritious foods to the romaine. You can chop them up in tiny pieces and mix it in well. Keep adding more and more over time with less and less of the romaine.


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## animalgod123 (Nov 14, 2016)

Yvonne G said:


> To get it started, use a lot of romaine because that's what the tortoise is used to. Then in a week or so, start adding other, more nutritious foods to the romaine. You can chop them up in tiny pieces and mix it in well. Keep adding more and more over time with less and less of the romaine.


My tortoise still doesn't seem right. I give it plenty of romaine lettuce and it barely eats any and sometimes none. I give it daily soaks and have its enclosure at the correct temperatures, but it seems like it never has any energy. Is there anything else I can do? What about force feeding? I know that it's difficult with tortoises.


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## JoesMum (Nov 15, 2016)

animalgod123 said:


> My tortoise still doesn't seem right. I give it plenty of romaine lettuce and it barely eats any and sometimes none. I give it daily soaks and have its enclosure at the correct temperatures, but it seems like it never has any energy. Is there anything else I can do? What about force feeding? I know that it's difficult with tortoises.


Some tortoises handle change very badly. 

Assuming you are 100% certain that: 
- you have 100F directly under the basking lamp at floor level
- your basking lamp is hanging vertically and not at an angle
- you have no compact (CFL) UVB bulb
- your lamps are on continuously for 14 hours a day. 
- overnight temperatures don't drop below 65F

Then you need to establish a routine so that your tortoise can learn to trust you and its new home. 
1. Have the lights go on and off using a timer
2. First thing in the morning, before your tort has warmed up properly, soak your tort for at least 30 minutes in warm water. 
3. While your tort soaks, tidy the enclosure and place food. 
4. Replace your tort and walk away. 
5. Resist the temptation to watch your tort. You are big and scary at the moment. Leave your tort entirely alone to be brave and explore. 

It takes time and patience, sometimes weeks, to settle some torts. As long as your tort is being soaked while it refuses food then it will be fine while its on hunger strike. 

I'd omit calcium supplement from food for the time being. Once your tort is eating, a tiny pinch of calcium powder sprinkled on food 3 times a week is all that is needed.


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## Maggie Cummings (Nov 15, 2016)

@JoesMum No disrespect meant at all, but why would anyone need a timer for one lousy tortoise? I have 5 tortoises and 15 box turtles, and every morning I turn their lights on and every evening I turn them off. That way I get to see the animal, I would notice any changes, and it gets me up off the couch. And I usually pick them up and say something dumb to them, but I see how they react and look. I also check them out as I take them out to the pond for swimming. Like I said I really don't mean any disrespect, but ya can't walk over and turn one light on or off twice a day???


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## JoesMum (Nov 15, 2016)

maggie3fan said:


> @JoesMum No disrespect meant at all, but why would anyone need a timer for one lousy tortoise? I have 5 tortoises and 15 box turtles, and every morning I turn their lights on and every evening I turn them off. That way I get to see the animal, I would notice any changes, and it gets me up off the couch. And I usually pick them up and say something dumb to them, but I see how they react and look. I also check them out as I take them out to the pond for swimming. Like I said I really don't mean any disrespect, but ya can't walk over and turn one light on or off twice a day???


No offence taken Maggie, but some people are shorter on time and/ or sleep irregular hours. 

Having a timer guarantees the lights are on every day for the required amount of time, gives the tort a regular routine where the owner perhaps doesn't have one and makes going away overnight, out partying or a weekend lie-in a darn sight easier 

And it establishes a routine for a timid tortoise with a very small monetary outlay.


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## Yvonne G (Nov 15, 2016)

maggie3fan said:


> @JoesMum No disrespect meant at all, but why would anyone need a timer for one lousy tortoise? I have 5 tortoises and 15 box turtles, and every morning I turn their lights on and every evening I turn them off. That way I get to see the animal, I would notice any changes, and it gets me up off the couch. And I usually pick them up and say something dumb to them, but I see how they react and look. I also check them out as I take them out to the pond for swimming. Like I said I really don't mean any disrespect, but ya can't walk over and turn one light on or off twice a day???



I feel the same way, Maggie. One time when Will was here getting baby leopards he put timers on all my outdoor sheds' lights. It really does absolutely no good to have them there, because I've always used that time - the turning on and off lights time - to double check everything. So if I go out in the evening to check on the tortoises and the timer has turned off the lights, I just override the timer and turn them back on. It saves me absolutely no time at all.

I suppose if I ever have to have my daughter come over and care for the animals if I'm away for any reason, it would be helpful to her to have the lights on timers, but I'm hardly ever away.


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## JoesMum (Nov 15, 2016)

It depends on your lifestyle. But most of the torts I recommend timers for are kept in the house with people who are working or at school. If it makes life a little easier then there's nothing wrong with it and it could mean the difference between a tort getting enough heat and UVB and a sick one.


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## Yvonne G (Nov 15, 2016)

I totally understand the concept. It's just another one of those not one-size-fits-all tortoise-keeping things.


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## animalgod123 (Nov 15, 2016)

Okay back to my tortoise. when I soak him that's when he is the most active (which still isn't much) but still refuses to eat. I had him for about a week and it hardly ate anything how much longer should I wait until I should try force feeding? If I should even do that at all.


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## JoesMum (Nov 15, 2016)

animalgod123 said:


> Okay back to my tortoise. when I soak him that's when he is the most active (which still isn't much) but still refuses to eat. I had him for about a week and it hardly ate anything how much longer should I wait until I should try force feeding? If I should even do that at all.


Force feeding will likely make matters worse. 

I refer you to my earlier answer:


JoesMum said:


> Some tortoises handle change very badly.
> 
> Assuming you are 100% certain that:
> - you have 100F directly under the basking lamp at floor level
> ...


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## KaitlinKeefe_ (Nov 15, 2016)

im not sure if someone has mentioned it but maybe soak in baby food?

when my adult russian was very sick i soaked him in organic baby food and the poor guy mustered up the strength to drink a little water and in turn got SOME nutrients from the baby food. i swear thats what kept him going during the roughest times. 

adult russians are much more resilient then hatchlings though. good luck!


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## animalgod123 (Nov 15, 2016)

KaitlinKeefe_ said:


> im not sure if someone has mentioned it but maybe soak in baby food?
> 
> when my adult russian was very sick i soaked him in organic baby food and the poor guy mustered up the strength to drink a little water and in turn got SOME nutrients from the baby food. i swear thats what kept him going during the roughest times.
> 
> adult russians are much more resilient then hatchlings though. good luck!


When you mean by soaking it in baby food do I have to warm it up? Mix it with water? What kind of baby food is the best? Thank you!


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## Tidgy's Dad (Nov 15, 2016)

mix half a jar of something like Gerber's carrot babyfood, or maybe pumpkin, into his soak water.
Which should be warm.


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## animalgod123 (Nov 15, 2016)

Tidgy's Dad said:


> mix half a jar of something like Gerber's carrot babyfood, or maybe pumpkin, into his soak water.
> Which should be warm.


Thank you I will try this next.


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## Maggie Cummings (Nov 15, 2016)

animalgod123 said:


> Okay back to my tortoise. when I soak him that's when he is the most active (which still isn't much) but still refuses to eat. I had him for about a week and it hardly ate anything how much longer should I wait until I should try force feeding? If I should even do that at all.



If you are not experienced at gavage, I sure wouldn't try it. When I was learning I killed a box turtle by going down the wrong 'pipe'. Two things, Cut a tortoise salad up to mouth sized bites, mix a lot of different stuff in with the romaine, dandelions, grass, grape leafs, mulberry leafs, Rose of Sharon blooms and leafs. 2, make sure your temps and length of light are correct. Don't stand there and watch him eat. they hate that.
I've already told you to soak him daily in strained carrots, Gerber baby food, it contains a lot of vitamin A, it soaks in their cloaca and the soft spot under their chin. If you were doing everything we've told you he'd be getting better by now. The carrots make up for him not eating. And remember, he's a baby. Babies sleep a lot, and they know they are prey, so they hide a lot.


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## Maggie Cummings (Nov 15, 2016)

JoesMum said:


> No offence taken Maggie, but some people are shorter on time and/ or sleep irregular hours.
> 
> Having a timer guarantees the lights are on every day for the required amount of time, gives the tort a regular routine where the owner perhaps doesn't have one and makes going away overnight, out partying or a weekend lie-in a darn sight easier
> 
> And it establishes a routine for a timid tortoise with a very small monetary outlay.






Sorry, I just don't see it. But to each his own. I have 20 turtles and tortoises right now and that's how I keep track of them and make friends with them and bond with them. Just my opinion and experience. I should know better to try and give advice to a newbie, she didn't listen to me at all.....(not you Mum) she's all yours, I'm gone


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## animalgod123 (Nov 15, 2016)

maggie3fan said:


> If you are not experienced at gavage, I sure wouldn't try it. When I was learning I killed a box turtle by going down the wrong 'pipe'. Two things, Cut a tortoise salad up to mouth sized bites, mix a lot of different stuff in with the romaine, dandelions, grass, grape leafs, mulberry leafs, Rose of Sharon blooms and leafs. 2, make sure your temps and length of light are correct. Don't stand there and watch him eat. they hate that.
> I've already told you to soak him daily in strained carrots, Gerber baby food, it contains a lot of vitamin A, it soaks in their cloaca and the soft spot under their chin. If you were doing everything we've told you he'd be getting better by now. The carrots make up for him not eating. And remember, he's a baby. Babies sleep a lot, and they know they are prey, so they hide a lot.


Thank you all this information it really helps a lot. I just hope soon it will become a happy active tortoise.


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## Diamond (Nov 15, 2016)

Animal god123, ! I'm very new at this too and had the same thing happened with my first Russian hatchling. If you are not seeing any improvement after taking the advice form some of the kinder well meaning people, I would take the baby to the vet. Babies do seem to be a lot harder to care for. Sometimes the babies we receive from breeders come with issues already, so don't be too quick to blame yourself. Do the best you can with the information and don't let anybody on this forum make you feel stupid


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## animalgod123 (Nov 15, 2016)

Diamond said:


> Animal god123, I'm very new at this too and had the same thing happened with my first Russian hatchling. If you are not seeing any improvement after taking the advice form some of the kinder well meaning people, I would take the baby to the vet. Babies do seem to be a lot harder to care for. Sometimes the babies we receive from breeders come with issues already, so don't be too quick to blame yourself. Do the best you can with the information and don't let anybody on this forum make you feel stupid


Thank you for being kind and am trying and doing my best to make sure this baby tortoise will survive. I will most likely take her to the vet if no improvement is made soon.


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## tortoishell (Nov 15, 2016)

maggie3fan said:


> If you are not experienced at gavage, I sure wouldn't try it. When I was learning I killed a box turtle by going down the wrong 'pipe'. Two things, Cut a tortoise salad up to mouth sized bites, mix a lot of different stuff in with the romaine, dandelions, grass, grape leafs, mulberry leafs, Rose of Sharon blooms and leafs. 2, make sure your temps and length of light are correct. Don't stand there and watch him eat. they hate that.
> I've already told you to soak him daily in strained carrots, Gerber baby food, it contains a lot of vitamin A, it soaks in their cloaca and the soft spot under their chin. If you were doing everything we've told you he'd be getting better by now. The carrots make up for him not eating. And remember, he's a baby. Babies sleep a lot, and they know they are prey, so they hide a lot.


Agreed. Just to be safe, I give my tortoise medicine by mixing it into his food. I understand your concerns, however. 
Best of luck, can't wait for your tortoise to get better. Fingers crossed .


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## tortoishell (Nov 15, 2016)

Diamond said:


> Animal god123, sorry for the rude remarks you have rec'd ! I'm very new at this too and had the same thing happened with my first Russian hatchling. If you are not seeing any improvement after taking the advice form some of the kinder well meaning people, I would take the baby to the vet. Babies do seem to be a lot harder to care for. Sometimes the babies we receive from breeders come with issues already, so don't be too quick to blame yourself. Do the best you can with the information and don't let anybody on this forum make you feel stupid


We all have rough starts . Remember that there is always someone out here that will help, whether it's a vet or a forum member.


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## Maggie Cummings (Nov 16, 2016)

Some people don't sugar coat things. I am one of those people. I gave her "good well meaning" advice. For one thing, if you sugar coat things and be too politically correct the new person doesn't realize their tortoise will die if they don't do these certain things. The first time or maybe second I told her to start soaking him in strained carrots. Then 2 days later someone says, are you soaking him in carrots, or something like that. And she says Oh how do I do that, like I hadn't told her 2 days before. I was not rude, I was blunt and to the point. I don't want that baby to die, but it will. I have been on this forum since 2008. Have you any clue as to how many newbies we have given advice to over that time, and how many dead tortoises we are told about? Then the newbie acts like an idiot, does NOT do the suggested things, they argue with the advice, and the tort dies. Time after time after time. When if they would do the few things they are told their animal would live. It's frustration as hell to try to help someone when you know 100% they are not following our advice.
I won't apologize because I was not rude, I was honest and blunt. That's one thing that's wrong with the younger generation these days. I gave good advice, short and to the point, if you thought I was rude, you ain't seen nothing yet baby.
Plus she should have taken that baby to the Vet days ago or taken it back to Petco.


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## animalgod123 (Nov 16, 2016)

tortoishell said:


> We all have rough starts . Remember that there is always someone out here that will help, whether it's a vet or a forum member.





maggie3fan said:


> Some people don't sugar coat things. I am one of those people. I gave her "good well meaning" advice. For one thing, if you sugar coat things and be too politically correct the new person doesn't realize their tortoise will die if they don't do these certain things. The first time or maybe second I told her to start soaking him in strained carrots. Then 2 days later someone says, are you soaking him in carrots, or something like that. And she says Oh how do I do that, like I hadn't told her 2 days before. I was not rude, I was blunt and to the point. I don't want that baby to die, but it will. I have been on this forum since 2008. Have you any clue as to how many newbies we have given advice to over that time, and how many dead tortoises we are told about? Then the newbie acts like an idiot, does NOT do the suggested things, they argue with the advice, and the tort dies. Time after time after time. When if they would do the few things they are told their animal would live. It's frustration as hell to try to help someone when you know 100% they are not following our advice.
> I won't apologize because I was not rude, I was honest and blunt. That's one thing that's wrong with the younger generation these days. I gave good advice, short and to the point, if you thought I was rude, you ain't seen nothing yet baby.
> Plus she should have taken that baby to the Vet days ago or taken it back to Petco.


No offense or anything but the first thing you posted on my thread was about you digging up a dead tortoise, which is kind of weird and random. And who is her? I'm a guy get your facts right fyi. Also I am not really new to this I have a 5 year old Russian tortoise that is doing great! also fyi they are in different enclosures so no they are not together. So you were not the first person to comment on soaking it in baby food. I have done everything everyone has suggested so before you call us so called "newbies" an idiot take a moment to realize who you are calling an idiot. The only thing I haven't done is take it to the vet which I will do soon. So I am doing everything I'm told because I want what is best for this tortoise! Also since when did this become about generation? We are all on here become we have a similar interest in tortoises and we want what's best for them so this is no place to argue about ridiculous things like this. Oh and I did not buy it from a pet store like Petco I bought it from a breeder fyi.


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## Yvonne G (Nov 16, 2016)

I think the point Maggie was trying to make about the dead tortoise was that it seems normal to her to see those markings on the scutes, as her tortoise had them too. And unless we click on your name and go to your profile page, we don't know what gender you are. Also, with only 17 posts at this time, we have no way of knowing your expertise. Assumptions were made, but it's nothing to get all upset about. Just read it and go on to the next post. I see nothing in Maggie's post that is offensive, and I'm sorry it affected you that way. We're just trying to help.


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## Yvonne G (Nov 17, 2016)

animalgod123 said:


> Okay back to my tortoise. when I soak him that's when he is the most active (which still isn't much) but still refuses to eat. I had him for about a week and it hardly ate anything how much longer should I wait until I should try force feeding? If I should even do that at all.



Tortoises can go a very long time without eating before it becomes a problem. Bear in mind that baby tortoises are prey and he's probably afraid, and also he's in a new place, which makes him afraid. He'll come around. It sometimes takes a month or so. Take him out daily and soak him in warm water for about 15 minutes and while he's soaking, place the food near the opening of his shelter. When you put him back, put in in front of the food and step quickly out of his sight. He'll eventually get used to this routine and come to realize he's not going to get eaten.


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## tortoishell (Nov 17, 2016)

I don't know if it's been suggested before, but maybe try some sort of treat? Many tortoises go crazy for a hibiscus flower or dandelion. For Russian tortoises, it's not recommended but I believe that one berry (raspberries, blueberries, strawberries) won't do any harm. If you feed these too often there can be serious consequences. Blackberry leaves are also enjoyed sometimes. Tortoises may also go for squash or pumpkin, but these can be too high in fiber if fed too often. 
I know it's not the best time of year to find these fruits  but maybe get one last dandelion from your yard. Make sure any of your garden crops don't come from the side of the road-- who knows what could be there. Also make sure they're not sprayed-- no chemicals, pesticides, etc. 
Some tortoises also like pellets-- I've heard people have a lot of success with Mazuri. 
Each tortoise is different, though, so it might take a while to find a food he likes. Be patient .


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## animalgod123 (Nov 18, 2016)

Yvonne G said:


> Tortoises can go a very long time without eating before it becomes a problem. Bear in mind that baby tortoises are prey and he's probably afraid, and also he's in a new place, which makes him afraid. He'll come around. It sometimes takes a month or so. Take him out daily and soak him in warm water for about 15 minutes and while he's soaking, place the food near the opening of his shelter. When you put him back, put in in front of the food and step quickly out of his sight. He'll eventually get used to this routine and come to realize he's not going to get eaten.


Its been more than a week since I had her and I only saw her eat a small amount of food and that was days ago. I have another tortoise do you think if I put them together that it might become more active or something? If I take it to the vet will they be able to do anything or just give me advice like everyone on here? Also she still hardly ever opens her eyes. One more thing is that she will move under the basking lamp and bask for a while then go to her humid hid throughout the day which is a positive sign because before she didn't do that.


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## animalgod123 (Nov 18, 2016)

tortoishell said:


> I don't know if it's been suggested before, but maybe try some sort of treat? Many tortoises go crazy for a hibiscus flower or dandelion. For Russian tortoises, it's not recommended but I believe that one berry (raspberries, blueberries, strawberries) won't do any harm. If you feed these too often there can be serious consequences. Blackberry leaves are also enjoyed sometimes. Tortoises may also go for squash or pumpkin, but these can be too high in fiber if fed too often.
> I know it's not the best time of year to find these fruits  but maybe get one last dandelion from your yard. Make sure any of your garden crops don't come from the side of the road-- who knows what could be there. Also make sure they're not sprayed-- no chemicals, pesticides, etc.
> Some tortoises also like pellets-- I've heard people have a lot of success with Mazuri.
> Each tortoise is different, though, so it might take a while to find a food he likes. Be patient .


Thank you, the person I got her from said she was eating romaine lettuce and mazuri tortoise food and that's what I'm giving her now but she still wont eat. Unfortunately there are no dandelions this time of year so I ordered some seeds online and are growing them now for her to try.


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## Tidgy's Dad (Nov 18, 2016)

If still worried, try a baby food soak. Add half a jar of something like Gerber's carrot or pumpkin baby food to her soak water to get some nutrients in her. 
Do not put her in with the other tortoise. This will stress both of them and make matters worse.
The vet may be able to test for things we cannot see or know, not a bad idea to get a check up when you have a new tortoise. But ensure you only go to a recognized herp vet, ordinary vets can be worse than useless. 
Not opening the eyes is bad. Are your temps and humidity correct ? Are you using a coil or compact bulb ? These have been known to damage torts eyes and even cause blindness, use an MVB (mercury vapour bulb) or a strip UVB light.


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## Yvonne G (Nov 18, 2016)

Sometimes putting baby tortoises together at mealtime encourages them to eat - competition for the food. If you try it, watch them carefully (out of sight) and separate them when they're finished eating.

I can't remember if you said the temperature was 80F degrees or not? They won't eat if they aren't warm enough. Also, you aren't using a curly shaped compact fluorescent bulb in that baby's habitat are you?

Just trying to think of the most common reasons babies don't eat.


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## animalgod123 (Nov 18, 2016)

Tidgy's Dad said:


> If still worried, try a baby food soak. Add half a jar of something like Gerber's carrot or pumpkin baby food to her soak water to get some nutrients in her.
> Do not put her in with the other tortoise. This will stress both of them and make matters worse.
> The vet may be able to test for things we cannot see or know, not a bad idea to get a check up when you have a new tortoise. But ensure you only go to a recognized herp vet, ordinary vets can be worse than useless.
> Not opening the eyes is bad. Are your temps and humidity correct ? Are you using a coil or compact bulb ? These have been known to damage torts eyes and even cause blindness, use an MVB (mercury vapour bulb) or a strip UVB light.


I've been soaking her in carrot baby food for a few days now. Temperature is about 98 degrees under basking light and 75 on cool side, and about 70 percent humidity. I've been looking up vets to take her too almost everyone does cats and dogs. I'm using a incandescent bulb that emits heat and UVA rays.


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## animalgod123 (Nov 18, 2016)

Yvonne G said:


> Sometimes putting baby tortoises together at mealtime encourages them to eat - competition for the food. If you try it, watch them carefully (out of sight) and separate them when they're finished eating.
> 
> I can't remember if you said the temperature was 80F degrees or not? They won't eat if they aren't warm enough. Also, you aren't using a curly shaped compact fluorescent bulb in that baby's habitat are you?
> 
> Just trying to think of the most common reasons babies don't eat.


My other tortoise eats very well and will most likely eat all the food before the other one will have a chance. I am using a incandescent bulb that emits UVA and heat. The temperature is above 80 where the food is.


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## Yvonne G (Nov 18, 2016)

Russian tortoises are better able to handle cooler temperatures, but until you get this baby eating and acting normal, I wouldn't let any part of the habitat get below 80F. UVA isn't necessary for tortoises. They need UVB. I've noticed a very obvious difference in the way a tortoise acts when you put him under a GOOD UVB light. UVB makes vitamin d3 and the calcium needs the vitamin d3 in order to make strong bones and shell. Without it the calcium just gets pee'd out.

Try setting up the one that isn't eating in a smaller, hospital tank. A 10 gallon aquarium works well for this, but any small tub will do. Make it 80F all over the whole tub and cover it as best you can to keep the warm air inside. It's always a good idea to separate them when one doesn't seem to be thriving.


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## animalgod123 (Nov 18, 2016)

Yvonne G said:


> Russian tortoises are better able to handle cooler temperatures, but until you get this baby eating and acting normal, I wouldn't let any part of the habitat get below 80F. UVA isn't necessary for tortoises. They need UVB. I've noticed a very obvious difference in the way a tortoise acts when you put him under a GOOD UVB light. UVB makes vitamin d3 and the calcium needs the vitamin d3 in order to make strong bones and shell. Without it the calcium just gets pee'd out.
> 
> Try setting up the one that isn't eating in a smaller, hospital tank. A 10 gallon aquarium works well for this, but any small tub will do. Make it 80F all over the whole tub and cover it as best you can to keep the warm air inside. It's always a good idea to separate them when one doesn't seem to be thriving.


Okay I will get a UVB bulb first thing tomorrow morning when the stores open. If I have a heat lamp in the 10 gallon tank wont that heat it up higher than 80?


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## animalgod123 (Nov 18, 2016)

animalgod123 said:


> Okay I will get a UVB bulb first thing tomorrow morning when the stores open. If I have a heat lamp in the 10 gallon tank wont that heat it up higher than 80?


Also I tear up the food with my hands could it possible reject the food because of my scent?


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## Tidgy's Dad (Nov 18, 2016)

Make sure you get an MVB or strip bulb NOT a compact/ coiled one. 
You can try with a heat lamp but you'll still need UVB.
An MVB bulb produces heat, light and UVB and should do the job on it's own. 
You may also need a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) that provides heat and no light for night time to keep your temps up. Tortoises need darkness in order to sleep properly. 
Tearing up the food by hand shouldn't be a problem, but if worried, use a knife.


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## animalgod123 (Nov 18, 2016)

Tidgy's Dad said:


> Make sure you get an MVB or strip bulb NOT a compact/ coiled one.
> You can try with a heat lamp but you'll still need UVB.
> An MVB bulb produces heat, light and UVB and should do the job on it's own.
> You may also need a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) that provides heat and no light for night time to keep your temps up. Tortoises need darkness in order to sleep properly.
> Tearing up the food by hand shouldn't be a problem, but if worried, use a knife.


What brand should I get? Or will any work well?


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## Tidgy's Dad (Nov 18, 2016)

Powersun from Zoo med and Arcadia are good makes. 
Not sure about others.


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## animalgod123 (Nov 18, 2016)

Tidgy's Dad said:


> Powersun from Zoo med and Arcadia are good makes.
> Not sure about others.


Okay thank you I will get that tomorrow morning


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## tortoishell (Nov 18, 2016)

Although it's not as important as the temps in the enclosure, what is the temperature of the water when you bathe him? Do not worry of you can't get the temperature, but tortoises sometimes respond to warmer water better. Make sure the water is tolerable though. 
If the temp outside is okay, maybe try taking your tort outside for fifteen minutes or so. Since it's only a short amount of time, an ambient temperature of 60 degrees should do. The fresh air and different environment could, in essence, surprise your tortoise awake. I've seen some people do this when their tortoise is lethargic. 
Keep an eye on your tort though. Who knows how many ways he could die out there.
If you take him out for an extended period of time, make sure it's warm enough.


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## animalgod123 (Nov 18, 2016)

tortoishell said:


> Although it's not as important as the temps in the enclosure, what is the temperature of the water when you bathe him? Do not worry of you can't get the temperature, but tortoises sometimes respond to warmer water better. Make sure the water is tolerable though.
> If the temp outside is okay, maybe try taking your tort outside for fifteen minutes or so. Since it's only a short amount of time, an ambient temperature of 60 degrees should do. The fresh air and different environment could, in essence, surprise your tortoise awake. I've seen some people do this when their tortoise is lethargic.
> Keep an eye on your tort though. Who knows how many ways he could die out there.
> If you take him out for an extended period of time, make sure it's warm enough.


I'm not sure of exact temperature but i make sure that its not too hot and slowly put my tortoise in it so it can slowly adjust to the warmer water. Once it is soaking that is when it's most active. I live in a community where they cut the lawn so I do not know what they put on the grass and I'm not willing to risk it. What about putting her on the patio where there is no grass?


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## tortoishell (Nov 18, 2016)

Is your patio made of cement or stone? This could injure their shell if the tortoise accidentally trips. If you keep an eye on it, however, it should be fine for a few minutes. The idea is for the tortoise to wake up when exposed to fresh air, so do not treat it like a permanent outdoor enclosure. Fifteen minutes usually does the trick, but do not worry if your tort doesn't react to the outdoors .


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## animalgod123 (Nov 18, 2016)

tortoishell said:


> Is your patio made of cement or stone? This could injure their shell if the tortoise accidentally trips. If you keep an eye on it, however, it should be fine for a few minutes. The idea is for the tortoise to wake up when exposed to fresh air, so do not treat it like a permanent outdoor enclosure. Fifteen minutes usually does the trick, but do not worry if your tort doesn't react to the outdoors .


The patio is made out of cement but I will keep a watchful eye out for it.


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## Yvonne G (Nov 19, 2016)

animalgod123 said:


> Okay I will get a UVB bulb first thing tomorrow morning when the stores open. If I have a heat lamp in the 10 gallon tank wont that heat it up higher than 80?



You can raise or lower to light to get the desired temperature.



animalgod123 said:


> Also I tear up the food with my hands could it possible reject the food because of my scent?



There's always that chance, I guess. Do you wash your hands to get off any lotion, etc. before you work with the food?


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## animalgod123 (Nov 19, 2016)

Yvonne G said:


> You can raise or lower to light to get the desired temperature.
> 
> 
> 
> There's always that chance, I guess. Do you wash your hands to get off any lotion, etc. before you work with the food?



This is her new set up. It looks small but is 10 gallons. I cut a hole in the lid so the heat doesn't melt the plastic it keeps most of the moisture in with the humidity being 70 percent and the temperature around 85 degrees. Also in there is a humid hid.
I do not use any lotion or anything before tearing up her food with my hands.


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## JoesMum (Nov 20, 2016)

animalgod123 said:


> Its been more than a week since I had her and I only saw her eat a small amount of food and that was days ago. I have another tortoise do you think if I put them together that it might become more active or something?


Do NOT put your tortoises together. 

They're not social. They don't want, need or like company. Another tortoise is competition for space and food and needs to be persuaded to leave at all costs.

What you have at the moment is a new, scared tortoise that may take weeks to come round. You don't need it to become a bullied, new scared tortoise. 



> If I take it to the vet will they be able to do anything or just give me advice like everyone on here? Also she still hardly ever opens her eyes.


A good vet with experience of tortoises may spot something we cannot possibly spot over the Internet. However, people like Yvonne have decades of experience caring for sick torts. A vet without relevant experience could well do more harm than good. Run a mile if the a Vitamin A injection is suggested. 



> One more thing is that she will move under the basking lamp and bask for a while then go to her humid hid throughout the day which is a positive sign because before she didn't do that.


That is a positive sign. You do need to be patient. Tortoises do everything slowly. It can take a very long time for them to accept a new home is safe and for them to start eating. 

All you can do is get those temperatures right, keep soaking, be sure you don't have coil UVB, establish a routine and leave your tortoise to get brave. I believe you're doing all of this, so now being patient is what's left.


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## Yvonne G (Nov 20, 2016)

I can see that you're trying very hard to take our advice and to get your tortoise up and running. I'm glad to see that you've moved it into a smaller, hospital tank (I'll call it a tank - it's easier). Hopefully these changes will help the tortoise feel more comfortable and start eating. 

I have another suggestion. It's hard to tell from the picture, but is the light fixture hanging? or does it depend upon support from the screen? If it is hanging, I would just remove the screen. The small spaces of the screen filter out most of the UVB rays that the tortoise needs to stay healthy. You can crimp some foil around the edges of the lid where you cut the holes.

If the lights are resting on the screen and not hanging, maybe you can cut a hole in the screen directly under the light to facilitate the rays.


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## animalgod123 (Nov 20, 2016)

Yvonne G said:


> I can see that you're trying very hard to take our advice and to get your tortoise up and running. I'm glad to see that you've moved it into a smaller, hospital tank (I'll call it a tank - it's easier). Hopefully these changes will help the tortoise feel more comfortable and start eating.
> 
> I have another suggestion. It's hard to tell from the picture, but is the light fixture hanging? or does it depend upon support from the screen? If it is hanging, I would just remove the screen. The small spaces of the screen filter out most of the UVB rays that the tortoise needs to stay healthy. You can crimp some foil around the edges of the lid where you cut the holes.
> 
> If the lights are resting on the screen and not hanging, maybe you can cut a hole in the screen directly under the light to facilitate the rays.


Yes I have cut a whole in the screen so most of the light can enter. One of my biggest concern is that it will not open her eyes but she does sometimes when I soak her. The light fixture is resting on the screen so I cut a whole in it. She does move around and able to find the entrance to her hid.


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## animalgod123 (Nov 20, 2016)

JoesMum said:


> Do NOT put your tortoises together.
> 
> They're not social. They don't want, need or like company. Another tortoise is competition for space and food and needs to be persuaded to leave at all costs.
> 
> ...


I just hope she will get adjusted soon. Also what do you mean run a mile if Vitamin A is suggested?


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## leigti (Nov 20, 2016)

It's not recommended to let your vet give your tortoise of vitamin a injection because so many tortoises die right after they get one.


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## animalgod123 (Nov 20, 2016)

leigti said:


> It's not recommended to let your vet give your tortoise of vitamin a injection because so many tortoises die right after they get one.


Oh ill definitely make sure to walk out if they suggest that.


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## tortoishell (Nov 20, 2016)

Please don't interpret this as being pushy, but has you tortoise been outside yet?


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## animalgod123 (Nov 20, 2016)

tortoishell said:


> Please don't interpret this as being pushy, but has you tortoise been outside yet?


No it has not, the temperatures have been below 60 and been snowing the past 2 days.


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## JoesMum (Nov 20, 2016)

Excess vitamin A causes horrible skin problems in tortoises. It is very easy to overdose them. A vet that suggests such an injection doesn't have tortoise experience


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## animalgod123 (Nov 21, 2016)

JoesMum said:


> Excess vitamin A causes horrible skin problems in tortoises. It is very easy to overdose them. A vet that suggests such an injection doesn't have tortoise experience


I am taking my tortoise to the vet this week. Any other suggestion I should be aware of?


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## TammyJ (Nov 21, 2016)

All the best of luck for your tortoise's full recovery.


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## animalgod123 (Nov 28, 2016)

UPDATE: So I have taken my Russian tortoise to the vet and they flushed her eyes out, did a force feeding and gave her some antibiotics injections. I'm happy to say the very next day it finally started to eat and its been eating for 3 days now and finally opening up its eyes! I just hope she keeps on improving!


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## JoesMum (Nov 28, 2016)

animalgod123 said:


> UPDATE: So I have taken my Russian tortoise to the vet and they flushed her eyes out, did a force feeding and gave her some antibiotics injections. I'm happy to say the very next day it finally started to eat and its been eating for 3 days now and finally opening up its eyes! I just hope she keeps on improving!


Excellent news  Fingers crossed for continued improvement


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## tortoishell (Nov 28, 2016)

That's great to hear! Let us know how she's doing !


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## animalgod123 (Dec 7, 2016)

UPDATE: My little tortoise who I named Conchita Nadia Little foot (couldn't decide on just one name) is absolutely doing great! She is so active now, always seems to be on the move and no longer has her eye shut all day. Thanks to the vet care she opens her eyes all the time and eats every single day and will even eat from my hand! I am so excited that she is doing so well now. Thank you all for your help it was great appreciated. I do however have one more concern her under shell is a bit soft and I know it takes longer to harden than the carapace. How long will it take for the under shell to harden? Thank you!


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## tortoishell (Dec 15, 2016)

animalgod123 said:


> UPDATE: My little tortoise who I named Conchita Nadia Little foot (couldn't decide on just one name) is absolutely doing great! She is so active now, always seems to be on the move and no longer has her eye shut all day. Thanks to the vet care she opens her eyes all the time and eats every single day and will even eat from my hand! I am so excited that she is doing so well now. Thank you all for your help it was great appreciated. I do however have one more concern her under shell is a bit soft and I know it takes longer to harden than the carapace. How long will it take for the under shell to harden? Thank you!


Glad to hear your tort is getting better! I love the name . 
As long as the plastron area looks healthy (no scratches, etc) it should be okay. If the plastron is rotting, that's a different matter and one that I'm not entirely experienced in. But if the plastron is just still growing, I wouldn't worry . Different plastrons on different torts harden at different times.


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