# Out door heating and wiring questions!



## luke (Oct 8, 2013)

Has anyone out there ever converted an indoor, closed chamber, enclosure into an out door enclosure?

Well this is what I want to do with my old indoor box. 







I will be using a 250 CHE screwed into your standard porcelain bulb fixture. My plan is to run a thick, short, extension chord out to my patio and connect the CHE with a Thermostat. I'm housing *two red foots* and I want to keep them outside over winter if possible.

Has anyone out there had success using a similar set up? Is anyone familiar with using these types of fixtures in outdoor applications? Do you think I should run conduit?


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## mike taylor (Oct 8, 2013)

*Re: Out door heating and wireing questions!*

I would run conduit on any outdoor electrical. Paint your enclosure to water proof it add some kind of roofing material to the roof . Wire it up using conduits And boxes that are for outdoor locations . Many people don't under stand animals are sensitive to electrical especially hoofed animals so a good ground is a must . Don't just wire up a cord and run it along the ground and plug it in . If there is a Nick in the cord you or your tortoise will pay for it . When it comes to power of any kind do it right or its a fire waiting to happen .

Sent from my C771 using TortForum mobile app


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## N2TORTS (Oct 8, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*

Luke .... good thinking on the conduit ... but lets start with the enclosure.
From the pic I can see a problem already if you are not planning on covering the cage with a tarp. Look at the bottom corners where the slider joint area is , water will collect is this area and eventually destroy/rot the area away, along with warpage. Why when building an outdoor enclosure you make sure all your joints overlap and point down. This will allow for water run off . A simple solution for you would be to add a " roof " that is larger than top of your cage. Make sure this too has an angle. Rule of thumb is 2% or 1/4" per foot. Also make sure it has eves that protrude past your enclosure L x W. Simple Â¼â€ ply wood would work , then run some asphalt shingles over it .
Ok ...now the conduit ...just use cheap PVC , but to use your cord you have to snip off one end to slide it thru. Make sure if your going to splice it give yourself enough to work with . Better yet snip the male end , and just wire a new "male plug" . Use a 14-3 wire ( it has a ground) and if possible hook to a GFI circuit . Other than that your good to go â€¦
Also with the PVC â€¦you can leave it exposed and paint it green or brown .. To match you surrounding area.

HAPPY BUILDING! 

JD~


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## stu (Oct 8, 2013)

*Out door heating and wireing questions!*

As long as your box is water proof and the cable has no way for water to drip down it and into the box it should be fine. I converted a rabbit hutch. Insulating it and added a three layer plastic sheet of plastic where just cage was and it works great. In fact too well, it gets to hot so I've had to add vents. Just get a water proof outdoor socket and make sure water cane get into the electrics this can be done simply by ensuring the wire hangs lower outside the box than in.

it's dark now so I can't take photos of the electrics.


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## Team Gomberg (Oct 8, 2013)

*Re: Out door heating and wireing questions!*

Do you want them in the chamber outside, locked up or do you want them to have access to the outside and the chamber is a "tort house" retreat for them?
My advice to you will differ based on which of these 2 set ups you are wanting.

Sent from my TFOapp


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## stu (Oct 8, 2013)

*Out door heating and wireing questions!*

I forgot to mention the small wood door at the right opens so that it becomes a ramp for them to come in and out of during the days it is warm enough for then to be outside.


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## N2TORTS (Oct 8, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*

Here is an outdoor enclosure made from old doors. Completely water tight , with heat and lighting within. I ran power out to the unit the same way as discussed above. The unit itself has hinged top door for complete access , while a front door folds down to provide a ramp ...



The unit can be completely shut and locked up at anytime. 




The whole thing sits on oak pallets to keep it off the ground ~

JD~:shy:


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## DevilsLettuce (Oct 8, 2013)

*Out door heating and wireing questions!*



N2TORTS said:


> Here is an outdoor enclosure made from old doors. Completely water tight , with heat and lighting within. I ran power out to the unit the same way as discussed above. The unit itself has hinged top door for complete access , while a front door folds down to provide a ramp ...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Who's the artist at the Cove'? You or your ol' lady?


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## N2TORTS (Oct 8, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*

Me~:shy:


although I wouldnâ€™t consider my self an artist ...more of a back yard flunky!


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## luke (Oct 8, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*



N2TORTS said:


> Luke .... good thinking on the conduit ... but lets start with the enclosure.
> From the pic I can see a problem already if you are not planning on covering the cage with a tarp. Look at the bottom corners where the slider joint area is , water will collect is this area and eventually destroy/rot the area away, along with warpage. Why when building an outdoor enclosure you make sure all your joints overlap and point down. This will allow for water run off . A simple solution for you would be to add a " roof " that is larger than top of your cage. Make sure this too has an angle. Rule of thumb is 2% or 1/4" per foot. Also make sure it has eves that protrude past your enclosure L x W. Simple Â¼â€ ply wood would work , then run some asphalt shingles over it .
> Ok ...now the conduit ...just use cheap PVC , but to use your cord you have to snip off one end to slide it thru. Make sure if your going to splice it give yourself enough to work with . Better yet snip the male end , and just wire a new "male plug" . Use a 14-3 wire ( it has a ground) and if possible hook to a GFI circuit . Other than that your good to go â€¦
> Also with the PVC â€¦you can leave it exposed and paint it green or brown .. To match you surrounding area.
> ...



Thanks for posting this. The more I look at it the more I think a roof/oning is the best way to go to make sure things stay "dry", I'm glad to see you think so too. I do have other problems that I should mention now. I live in an apartment, the tort box is going to be just outside my kitchen along one side of my small patio. There are no outlets outside and I wlll have to run wire thru a sliding screen door unless I can find an alternative .
I'll definitely try cheap PVC for conduit.

I might just ask the management or the maintenance staff to see if they can help me out with the electrical or at least tell me what my options are.

Thanks for posting those pics BTW. I'm getting more and more Ideas for future enclosures.




Team Gomberg said:


> Do you want them in the chamber outside, locked up or do you want them to have access to the outside and the chamber is a "tort house" retreat for them?
> My advice to you will differ based on which of these 2 set ups you are wanting.
> 
> Sent from my TFOapp



I'm keeping the Tort Box out doors. If its warm and I want them to have sun or w/e i'll take them out on to the patio. Otherwise they will stay in the Box day and night. The turtles can not use the enclosure as a retreat because it is closed off and sits 3.5 feet above the ground.


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## Tom (Oct 8, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*

Outdoors in Washington over winter? You'll need some serious insulation. Your 250 watt CHE will not be enough and the hot spot directly under it might get too hot. I think need to buy or build a large shed and do some serious insulating. There reaches a point where throwing out more electricity and heat is not going to do you any good, if the heat just escapes through plywood walls.

In all honesty, I can't recommend this at all. One power outage overnight while you are sleeping and your tortoises will literally freeze to death. These are tropical tortoises. They need to be indoors over winter in a climate like yours.


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## Neal (Oct 8, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*



N2TORTS said:


>



I think I saw the same thing in one of Toms pictures, but can one procure a small reflective metal sheet at their local Home Depot or Lowes?


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## N2TORTS (Oct 8, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*

yes Neal .. ... already cut for you ...( they have several sizes) just in case you don't have snips . Same with the *ceramic base* ....
For the OP
Tom has a very valid point ... and one I wonder about things like he mentioned many times as scroll thru here and read about collectors who live in "freeze zones". I'm in So Cal..and I still have a back up generator for that .. " just in case" . As it can get nippy....and for redfoots anything below 70....your asking for trouble. Now on a happier note ... it can be done....
As far as the apartment ....heck no biggie ..(they will keep most your deposit anyhow) Kitchen outlet is good because it will be a GFI ( or should be ) find an inconspicuous spot and just drill thru the wall with a 1/2" masonry bit. Stay clear of your plumbing for the sink , up around your window line go 6 " over just drill right thru the drywall and stucco ( or what ever exterior covering you have)It's easy to patch when you move out. ..... Now if you live in a brick house/Apt .. different ball game . 
#2 Idea ... look for Elec on the Apt grounds outside and hotwire into it ~
Most of your walkway lights or " Malibu" lights are low-voltage you will need to find a source.


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## DevilsLettuce (Oct 8, 2013)

*Out door heating and wireing questions!*



N2TORTS said:


> Me~:shy:
> 
> 
> although I wouldnâ€™t consider my self an artist ...more of a back yard flunky!






Nice......
I need to get you over here to decorate my area...


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## jaizei (Oct 8, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*



luke said:


> I might just ask the management or the maintenance staff to see if they can help me out with the electrical or at least tell me what my options are.



I think this is your best option, might save you headaches later. 

Are you concerned about security at all? Is the area around your patio common or separated?


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## mike taylor (Oct 8, 2013)

*Re: Out door heating and wireing questions!*

I would think about moving to a rent house with a yard . You don't want to put people in harms way by making fire hazards. Put heating devices in a wooden enclosures wired with cords not a good idea . I've been an electrician for 14years if you don't know what you are doing things can and will go bad fast. 

Sent from my C771 using TortForum mobile app


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## Team Gomberg (Oct 8, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*

I don't recommend you keep them in the closed chamber outside.

For one, your temps will fluctuate too much. Another reason, what's the point of them being outside if they are still in the chamber? There is no added benefit to this, only additional hurdles.

I think you should keep the chamber indoors. On nice days, give them some outside time but I wouldn't set up the chamber out there for winter/full time living.


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## sibi (Oct 8, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*

I would be very uncomfortable converting your indoor chamber into an outside enclosure. It would not stand the cold winter days. Frankly, it's too small to insulate and add conduit. Is it possible to rent a house with a backyard and a shed that can be converted into an outdoor enclosure? Otherwise, keep things as they are until your living situation changes.


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## luke (Oct 8, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*



Tom said:


> Outdoors in Washington over winter? You'll need some serious insulation. Your 250 watt CHE will not be enough and the hot spot directly under it might get too hot. I think need to buy or build a large shed and do some serious insulating. There reaches a point where throwing out more electricity and heat is not going to do you any good, if the heat just escapes through plywood walls.
> 
> In all honesty, I can't recommend this at all. One power outage overnight while you are sleeping and your tortoises will literally freeze to death. These are tropical tortoises. They need to be indoors over winter in a climate like yours.



I live in California again. I need to change that profile. I was in Washington for just over two years but now I'm back in socal and my torts love it.

Do you think this set up could work here in cali if I use some kind of roof cover for the enclosure and some additional insulation? 

I'm thinking a two piece insulation panel to cover the Plexi, which is probably the biggest source of heat loss. Somthing I can snap in at night and tuck away during the day. I might also do somthing with the roof.




Team Gomberg said:


> I don't recommend you keep them in the closed chamber outside.
> 
> For one, your temps will fluctuate too much. Another reason, what's the point of them being outside if they are still in the chamber? There is no added benefit to this, only additional hurdles.
> 
> I think you should keep the chamber indoors. On nice days, give them some outside time but I wouldn't set up the chamber out there for winter/full time living.



When we moved down from Washington we had to down size. We are now in a 1 bed room and I have an 11 month old baby. Things have been changing a lot recently. The up-side of having the Box outside is that its not inside taking up a ton of space. Its also easier to clean tortoise messes outside since you don't have to worry about spilling. The temps do not fluctuate too much that I've seen this passed week. The box only see's about 3 hours of sun light a day since its up against a two story bldg. and there are also tall trees around providing shade. I've seen the temps get up to the high 90's. I don't think that's too hot. I'll have to keep monitoring to make sure it doesn't get worse. 

If this idea doesnt work I'll just bring the box back in and go from there. But its a big box for our little apt.


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## mike taylor (Oct 9, 2013)

*Re: RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*



N2TORTS said:


> mike taylor said:
> 
> 
> > I would think about moving to a rent house with a yard . You don't want to put people in harms way by making fire hazards. Put heating devices in a wooden enclosures wired with cords not a good idea . I've been an electrician for 14years if you don't know what you are doing things can and will go bad fast.
> ...



I'm just saying I would not just throw something together. Without making sure it's safe . When you wire your home it's wired to codes and ul listed electric equipment. Not extension cords . You know would hate to hear someone burned down the house with a missed wired heat lamp . Thats all just whatever you do just use the right things don't just slap it in and say that will do . 

Sent from my C771 using TortForum mobile app


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## luke (Oct 9, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*

Excuse me this is my thread!

JK 

JD sorry to hear about situation and the meds. I know what its like to have health issues. Smoking at to a.m. tho, you were asking for it.

Do all GFI circuits have those button things? Because non of the outlets in my apt have those. Should I just install them? are they cheap?

Tell me more about this idea about drilling thru the wall. Would you suggest running the extension chord up to the wall and drilling a 0.5" whole with a mason bit? 

If this is the case where should I start running the tubing and how do you recommend sealing the hole?


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## N2TORTS (Oct 10, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*



luke said:


> Excuse me this is my thread!
> 
> JK
> 
> ...


Emailme = [email protected],com


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## Kapidolo Farms (Oct 10, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*



luke said:


> Do all GFI circuits have those button things? Because non of the outlets in my apt have those. Should I just install them? are they cheap?



The apartment manager/owner is in violation of state code then, any outlet within, some number of feet, to water has to be a GFI. All bathroom and kitchens near the sink. All exterior.

All circuits are interruptible, but at the "fuse box", so if it is a GFI outlet at the outlet, it will be apparent. Some have white button, some red and black, some all black, some all red. Some lighted to show that the 'interruption' has occurred. They are all three prong as well, and indication not discussed yet here.

Smoke detectors in the bedrooms, that is a law here now too.

So, they, the manager/owner, should install the GFI with your request. You might want to have someone else fool with it if your exposure to such things is that you do not know how to identify a type of outlet.

These are public speaking areas, threads are not owned. Well, I guess Josh could request myBB to erase content from their servers, and delete his own back-up, but otherwise, it is forever and public. Be 

Will


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## Tom (Oct 10, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*

I wish to relate some personal experience that DOES have to do with this thread. I have a couple of 4x8x2' closed chambers in my garage. Over winter the temps in the garage drop into the low 50s. Two 100 watt CHEs were not enough to keep the temperature up until I wrapped the enclosure with 1.5 inch rigid foam insulation and another layer of plywood on top of that. Then I had to drape a furniture pad over the front at night to keep it warm enough when the heat lamps were off.

So outdoors, in the wind and weather, with temps below freezing, I don't think that enclosure is going to work.


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## N2TORTS (Oct 10, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*

Since 1971, the NEC has expanded the requirements for ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCI) to protect anyone who plugs into an electrical system. Initially, it was only required for temporary wiring at construction sites and in dwelling unit bathrooms, but in recent years the Code requirements for GFCI protection have expanded to include many other areas, including commercial occupancies, fountains and swimming pools, and temporary installations, to name a few. Although dwellings older than 20 years are not required to retrofit existing systems in SOME cases.

*****One thing to consider not all States have the same building codes. 

CALIFORNIA ELECTRICAL CODE 2013 - Effective Jan. 1 2014
Section 210.8

Dwelling units.
As noted above, GFCI protection has been required for all 15A and 20A, 125V receptacles in the bathroom area of a dwelling unit for more than 20 yr.
GFCI protection devices are also required for all 15A and 20A, 125V receptacles located in garages and grade-level portions of unfinished or finished accessory buildings used for storage or work areas of a dwelling unit [210.8(A)(2)]. Howeverâ€¦.. there are a couple of exceptions to this rule. GFCI protection is not required for receptacles that are not readily accessible, such as a ceiling-mounted receptacle for a garage door openerâ€¦.. Nor are they required for a receptacle on a dedicated branch circuit located and identified for a cord-and-plug-connected appliance, such as a refrigerator or freezer.
Per 210.8(A)(3), all 15A and 20A, 125V receptacles outside of a dwelling unit, including receptacles installed under the eaves of roofs, shall be GFCI-protected. The only exception to this rule is that GFCI protection is not required for fixed electric snow melting or de-icing equipment receptacles that are not readily accessible and are supplied by a dedicated branch circuit in accordance with 426.28.




Commercial occupancies. Per 210.8, you must install GFCI protection for all 15A and 20A, 125V receptacles located in bathrooms, rooftops, and kitchens in commercial/industrial facilities. Howeverâ€¦..GFCI protection is not required for receptacles installed outside a commercial or industrial occupancy.
In addition, 210.63 requires you to install a 15A or 20A, 125V receptacle outlet within 25 ft of heating, air conditioning, and refrigeration equipment. The only exception to this rule is that you need not install GFCI protection for fixed electric snow melting or de-icing equipment receptacles that are not readily accessible and are supplied by a dedicated branch circuit in accordance with 426.28.
Every receptacle installed in kitchens must be GFCI-protected. This new rule sets up an interesting situation. Sec. 210.8(A)(6) for dwelling units only requires GFCI protection for 15A and 20A, 125V receptacles installed to serve dwelling unit kitchen counter surfaces. However, 210.8(B)(3) requires all 15A and 20A, 125V receptacles in a commercial kitchen to be GFCI-protected.

Temporary installations.
In accordance with 527.6(A) and (B), you should always install GFCI devices on temporary wiring systems to protect workers during construction, remodeling, maintenance, repair, or demolition of buildings, structures, equipment or similar activities. All 15A, 20A, and 30A, 125V receptacle outlets that are not a part of the permanent wiring of the building or structure shall be equipped with GFCI protection. If a 15A, 20A, or 30A, 125V receptacle is part of the permanent wiring of the building or structure and it is used for temporary electric power, GFCI protection for workers must be providedâ€¦..
There is an exception to this rule. In industrial establishments where conditions of maintenance and supervision ensure that only qualified personnel are involved, an assured equipment grounding conductor program as specified in 527.6(B)(2) is permitted for only those receptacle outlets used to supply equipment that would create a greater hazard if power was interrupted or those that have a design that is not compatible with GFCI protection.


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## jaizei (Oct 10, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*

Copying and pasting is not the same as understanding. At the very least, I would recommend copying and pasting something that is based on the latest edition of the NEC, not something from 2002. The code is revised every few years. Some of this is wrong. You make it seem as though you are referencing the 2013 California Electric Code, but you are not. 

You should also give credit to Mike Holt, who actually wrote much of your post.




N2TORTS said:


> Since 1971, the NEC has expanded the requirements for ground-fault circuit interrupters (GFCI) to protect anyone who plugs into an electrical system. Initially, it was only required for temporary wiring at construction sites and in dwelling unit bathrooms, but in recent years the Code requirements for GFCI protection have expanded to include many other areas, including commercial occupancies, fountains and swimming pools, and temporary installations, to name a few. Although dwellings older than 20 years are not required to retrofit existing systems in SOME cases.
> 
> *****One thing to consider not all States have the same building codes.
> 
> ...


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## N2TORTS (Oct 10, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*



jaizei said:


> Copying and pasting is not the same as understanding. At the very least, I would recommend copying and pasting something that is based on the latest edition of the NEC, not something from 2002. The code is revised every few years. Some of this is wrong. You make it seem as though you are referencing the 2013 California Electric Code, but you are not.
> 
> You should also give credit to Mike Holt, who actually wrote much of your post.
> 
> ...


 Ahh my little love muffin ..I was waiting for you to pop in ....
here ya go baby ....Mike is sitting right here next to me .. he says hi! 


Building Standards Commission - State of California

www.bsc.ca.gov/

2013 California Electrical Code, Part 3 2013 California Mechanical Code, Part 4 2013 California


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## Kapidolo Farms (Oct 10, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*

Hmm semi still on topic -- in three different counties in California, all with dwellings older than 20 years, I was compelled to have all bathroom and kitchen outlets be GFI's. 

Laws aside it is safe, and better. Even these things can fail, but it is one step closer to more safe, than if they are not there.

No matter still, extension cords are intended for temporary use, not long term installations. Another safety issue behind that.

How might that relate to the application as discussed here exactly? - if you do cause substantial damage with a fire, there is no insurance company that will roll over and pay for your illegal installation, in short you will be, in California, criminally liable for costs, and or injures, and or death.

Criminally liable means jail, not just financial ruin. Really, I have attorneys keep me up to date on all these issues related to rentals in California. Lots of exposure dictates lots of 'cover my ***'. 

Yeah, these are the extreme of the bad outcome. Seen it happen more than once in my life.

As explained elsewhere I have a bit of a 'my brother's keeper' POV. You can't make an informed choice without information, Yes?

Will


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## Team Gomberg (Oct 10, 2013)

*Re: Out door heating and wireing questions!*

I think you need to pay attention to Toms post. It's important to note and the reason I think you should not set up this chamber outside. 
Or, Would you be willing to insulate your chamber? 

Sent from my TFOapp


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## N2TORTS (Oct 10, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*

Safer is always the best ....I agree Mr. Will....just for a side note, interesting enough Home Depot Had a "pig tail" GFI ...for corded applications when working/or use in wet environments....I saw while shopping there today . A very neat idea / application .To honestly say the 20+ years I have been contracting here , the codes are screwy , change all the time and are even different within different counties ( which in a broad scope is the same City) . The bond is no biggie but the Workmanâ€™s Comp /liability is at about $22/ per $100 right now. Back in the 80â€™s - 90â€™s it was 15 -18 bucks.




Team Gomberg said:


> I think you need to pay attention to Toms post. It's important to note and the reason I think you should not set up this chamber outside.
> Or, Would you be willing to insulate your chamber?
> 
> Sent from my TFOapp





and your right Heather .... I think I mentioned that as well after reading Tom's post. ( I wonder if I have to Cite that? ) . Just the 3 of us residing in So.Cal and being weary of our cold nights ...I couldnâ€™t even imagine trying to do it in freezing weather. My elec last year during winter months for all the tortoise applications ....huts, hides, incubator is very spendy to say the least.


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## jaizei (Oct 10, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*

I do not think it is too demanding to expect someone to give credit to the person who actually wrote something. 

For simplicity, here is a link to a PDF of the CA 2013 code. The relevant section (210.8) is around page 74. 

Source for your post. Note the date and the references to the 2002 NEC.

Notice that the current code has fewer exceptions. Anyone familiar with the NEC (upon which many electrical codes are based) knows this. If you are not familiar with current electrical codes, wouldn't it be prudent to not give advice on electrical installations? 





N2TORTS said:


> jaizei said:
> 
> 
> > Copying and pasting is not the same as understanding. At the very least, I would recommend copying and pasting something that is based on the latest edition of the NEC, not something from 2002. The code is revised every few years. Some of this is wrong. You make it seem as though you are referencing the 2013 California Electric Code, but you are not.
> ...


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## luke (Oct 11, 2013)

*RE: Out door heating and wireing questions!*

Thanks for all the useful info everyone. I need to speak with management and go from there.


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## luke (Mar 18, 2014)

Here is an update to my to my outdoor heating project.

I spoke with management at my apt complex about running power to my patio. Since the diameter of the hole would only be 8mm they said its all good.

Let me start by saying this whole project was a pain to complete. I should have started as soon as I moved in last summer because there was a few times when we had rain and the enclosure was out in the patio uncovered and it got wet. By the time I got around to starting I had to throw away the old lid and make a new one, as well as sand out some the the mold that developed on the box itself.

Then, rather then buying some lumber and plywood to build a roof I tired to build it out of and old plank fence that was torn down a couple of years ago. Long story short, it worked but it took a long time.

The plan was to use some extra 2x2 from my father in law as well as some 1/8" hard board from home depot, and then just sandwich the foam between the hard board to make insulation panels. That plan fell thru when they're saw was out of order and they couldnt cut the hard board ( I drive a civic coupe). I had to settle and use 1/4" plywood instead of 1/8" hard board and the panels turned out really heavy and difficult to work with. I did end up buying some hard board later on for the sides and the back. All panels had 3 coats of a water based weather sealer.





































I used a 12 foot outdoor extension chord and measured how much I needed to run then I cut it and routed it thru the PVC (conduit) and thru the exterior wall of my apartment. Then I wired it to three prong connector and finally, I ran it thru a portable GFI connector for shock protection.

I'm am pleased with the results tho. The roof is holding up nicely, no leaks, so the box stays dry when its wet. Also the box does not get TOO hot like it did when it was exposed to direct sunlight for hours. The heat and lighting also work great. I have not had any problems with it and I check it all the time because a have a wireless weather probe inside the box that sends info to a display i keep inside. Keeping the box outside is a good ways to keep the humidity up.

One more thing I'd like to mention for anyone out there considering a project like this. Initially I made an insulation panel to cover the top and the front of the enclosure, and I left the sides and the back uncovered. My 240 watt heater definitely had the power to keep the box warm even on cold nights but I decided to make insulation panels because the uncovered inside walls of the enclosure would drip like crazy because of condensation. And there was even a grimy substance that would develop on the walls after a cold night. Adding insulation took care of that and also makes it so that the heater does not run so much. I'm sure I could heat the box with a 100 emitter no problem. 

thanks for all the great suggestions.


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