# Worried about my Horsefield Tortoise's shell



## Gee (May 15, 2014)

The first image is his enclosure I have had him about 2 months he is about 3 years old the person I got him off. I feed him 2 a day but I have started just feeding him once a day I cant miss a day to feed him because he gets really moody and sits on his bowl. I feed him cabbege and broccoli and rose leaves and I am growin weeds for him. I weigh him 2 a week and bath him 2 a week. I let him out of his enclosure everyday and he runs about and loves been out but I am worrying about the white lines and the ends of his shell are curling. He seems very happy to me and my mum but I just be worrying about nothing I just would like so advice. His enclosure has a UV light and a Heat light and the temperature of his enclosure is about 25°C. Please I would love some advice I am a first tortoise owner and I love him to bits.


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## Tom (May 15, 2014)

You've got some issue to deal with.
1. Cabbage and broccoli should only be fed once a month or so. You said "mum", so I'm guessing you are in the UK. Try some rocket salad, endive, escarole, radichio, dandelion greens, coriander, and above all as many of the right weeds you can find.
2. The red bulb needs to go. Use a white "day light" bulb.
3. It should be dark and cooler at night.
4. The white is growth lines. It is not necessarily a problem, but that should slow down with a better diet.
5. You need a MUCH BIGGER enclosure. 4x4' would be adequate for a while, 4x8' would be better.
6. Letting your tortoise run loose on the floor of your house is a dangerous practice and often ends in injury or death to the tortoise. Please make him a large enclosure so he can get his exercise in an area that is safe for him.
7. A large outdoor enclosure will benefit your tortoise tremendously.
8. That water bowl is a drowning hazard. Please switch it out for something more shallow and suitable. A $2 terra cotta plant saucer sunk into the substrate will work much better.
9. Those coil type UV bulbs can burn their eyes. I would not use that any more. Get a tube type or use a mercury vapor bulb.
10. Sand is a potential impaction risk and skin and eye irritant. I would remove that immediately and replace it with more of the orchid bark.

Here is a care sheet and a helpful thread for you:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/


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## Yvonne G (May 15, 2014)

There's nothing to worry about on your tortoise's shell. That's new growth. Once you've adjusted his diet like Tom has told you, it will even out.


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## Tiff (May 15, 2014)

Gee said:


> The first image is his enclosure I have had him about 2 months he is about 3 years old the person I got him off. I feed him 2 a day but I have started just feeding him once a day I cant miss a day to feed him because he gets really moody and sits on his bowl. I feed him cabbege and broccoli and rose leaves and I am growin weeds for him. I weigh him 2 a week and bath him 2 a week. I let him out of his enclosure everyday and he runs about and loves been out but I am worrying about the white lines and the ends of his shell are curling. He seems very happy to me and my mum but I just be worrying about nothing I just would like so advice. His enclosure has a UV light and a Heat light and the temperature of his enclosure is about 25°C. Please I would love some advice I am a first tortoise owner and I love him to bits.
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Hi, I think he is a she. If you look at her tail it is short. Males have long tails and front claws. Russians need air flow or they can become susceptible to a respiratory infection. I think the enclosure you have was designed to be a vivarium ( I think that's the correct name for it). I too have a russian and I was letting him roam free with out an enclosure. Once learning that is was not safe and my tort would be happier with a proper setup as stated by fellow members, she is much happier and with prayer I think will do just fine.


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## Tom (May 15, 2014)

Tiff said:


> Russians need air flow or they can become susceptible to a respiratory infection. I think the enclosure you have was designed to be a vivarium ( I think that's the correct name for it).



Just for the sake of discussion, I don't agree with the above statement. I have 20 small russians and they are in three tanks that are similar to the one pictured except mine are 5 and 6' long instead of 3', and the tops are mostly covered to reduce airflow and retain some humidity. All are fine and thriving. I've raised many individuals of many species this way and the "air flow" thing has never been an issue. In fact I prefer that sort of glass tank for the very reason some websites and books say they are bad. They say they reduce airflow and retain more heat. That is perfect. More airflow takes away the warm, moderately humid air I am trying to generate. More heat retention means I can use a lower wattage bulb and still provide my tortoises with the correct temperatures. This creates a less desiccating hot spot under the bulb and saves a lot of money on the electric bill.


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## WillTort2 (May 15, 2014)

As normal, there are multiple views on many subjects regarding keeping tortoises.

In my view, your tortoise does need the increased humidity that a closed enclosure provides while young. Depending on the natural humidity of your region, you may be able to obtain this with a damp substrate of coco coir and top soil in a large open tortoise table. If your area is arid, then the closed enclosure will be much better at keeping the temperature and humidity stable while the tortoise is young.

My tortoises are approaching maturity and I like keeping them in a humid room ranging from a low of 40% in the winter to close to 80% when the hot and humid summer arrives. (Aim for 60% and your tort should be fine)(Hatchlings are thought to thrive best with higher humidity and warm temperatures, see Tom's research regarding this.) When conditions allow, outside enclosures provide the best UV source. Just make sure the outdoor enclosure is both predator proof and escape proof.

Good luck.


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## Tiff (May 15, 2014)

Hi Tom, 

I'm really starting to confuse myself lol well okay I already did ! Can you house Greeks as well in glass enclosures?


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## Tiff (May 15, 2014)

Tom, I assumed he was an adult by the measurement oops! I know for hatchling expecially and young torts need higher humidity, but once they become an adult air flow is important? Please correct me if I am really off.


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## Tiff (May 15, 2014)

Sorry Gee for the confusion!


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## Tom (May 15, 2014)

Tiff said:


> Can you house Greeks as well in glass enclosures?



As Will correctly noted, there is more than one way to do "it" "correctly". I have housed and cared for a few Greeks in the past, but my experience with them is limited, so I don't like to offer specific advice about them. I have seen them house in glass tanks and in open tables and all were fine. Best case is neither of the above, but instead a large, well planted outdoor enclosure.

What type of enclosure is not important. What IS important are the conditions offered to the tortoise. I find it MUCH easier in my VERY dry climate of extreme temperature variation to maintain what I consider the "correct" temperature and humidity parameters for the species I keep in closed chambers with very little ventilation or, as you called it, "air flow". For others with different circumstances, they may find maintaining an open topped tortoise table with adequate temps and humidity works just fine for them.


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## dmmj (May 15, 2014)

I think she (Looks female to me) is older than 3 just going by size.


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## Tom (May 15, 2014)

Tiff said:


> Tom, I assumed he was an adult by the measurement oops! I know for hatchling expecially and young torts need higher humidity, but once they become an adult air flow is important? Please correct me if I am really off.



Age and size of the tortoise don't matter all that much. Babies with their fast growing shells and smaller mass can dehydrate and desiccate in overly dry conditions faster than an adult of the same species. Adults with their larger mass and barely growing shells can tolerate the typical dry, desiccating captive conditions that are frequently offered longer with less ill effect. This is not to say that 8% humidity is "good" or "okay" for an adult russian. It just means that a larger animal can tolerate "less than optimal" conditions better and for longer than a smaller animal. The adult will benefit and thrive in the same conditions that a baby will benefit from and thrive in.


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