# MVB bulbs, and baby torts



## volcom6981 (Oct 18, 2012)

I was just wondering how many of you use MVB for baby tortoise enclosures? I have seen where some love it, but where others think they are too hot, and may dehidrate the tortoise. I have just recently switched my regular bulb and tube uvb, to a MVB, and the tube for the extra light. Its a marginated tortoise only a couple months old, under the MVB its about 95-100, and the cool side is about 80 degrees, and i use a CHE at night on a T-Stat to keep it warm. I have noticed so far that my tort hangs out under the MVB bulb all the time, and sleeps under it alot. He moves around the area but always stays there, so im just wondering if there is a reason why, or something i should be concerned about, or just likes to be warm? I soak him everyday for about 30 min. but this is my first time using this kind of bulb.

Oh i should also mention i have a 2 year old Leopard Tort that i use the MVB bulb on as well, only difference is the Leopard uses the whole enclosure, and dosnt spend all day under the MVB. Its getting colder here in PA so i brought my young guys in for the winter.


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## ascott (Oct 18, 2012)

> I have noticed so far that my tort hangs out under the MVB bulb all the time, and sleeps under it alot. He moves around the area but always stays there, so im just wondering if there is a reason why, or something i should be concerned about, or just likes to be warm?



Okay so here is my two cents; I believe that Mercury Vapor Bulbs are a useful tool, if used as part of an enclosure (and for sun loving torts and not all species of torts) set up. 

For young young torts I believe that a long tube uva/uvb bulb is a better choice along side of a heat light/source and believe that their eyes are too sensitive to have constant exposure to that bright light....here is why I believe this; a tort requires heat to regulate a majority of its bodily function(s)--appetite, digestion and overall good state of mind....and also require uva and uvb for aid in healthy shell, vision, state of mind and alot of other physical elements...now, here is where I believe for the first year the use of long tube uva/uvb with separate heating element is best...a young tort may sit too long under the uva/uvb in a desire to feel the heat from the MVB and in doing so can cause damage to its delicate eyes...also, can contribute to dehydration...however, if you have a heat source that is used in conjunction with a uva/uvb source that is easier on the eyes then the tort can go into the heat and still get some uv exposure but not so bright...not so intense...

There are others here that think that I am silly for thinking this---however, it is where I sit on this issue....now, I also have to say that there is NOTHING in this world that man has ever created that will replace good ole fashion natural sun time....so if you can get your tort out at least 15 minutes a day then the use of a uv bulb is not as urgent....wait round for the others to offer you up their opinions and experience as well, the more the merrier...


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## cemmons12 (Oct 18, 2012)

All I will say is that I believe that MVB's are something that tort's need if you can't get them out in the sun as much as they need, along with the calcium with D3. And if its to hot then all u have 2 do is adjust the height of the light to get the temp right.


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## StudentoftheReptile (Oct 19, 2012)

All depends on how exactly the enclosure is set-up. Works better for some rather than others.

Personally, I like the tube florescent UV light + CHE combo arrangement better because it allows for more flexibility.


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## volcom6981 (Oct 19, 2012)

ascott said:


> Okay so here is my two cents; I believe that Mercury Vapor Bulbs are a useful tool, if used as part of an enclosure (and for sun loving torts and not all species of torts) set up.
> 
> For young young torts I believe that a long tube uva/uvb bulb is a better choice along side of a heat light/source and believe that their eyes are too sensitive to have constant exposure to that bright light....here is why I believe this; a tort requires heat to regulate a majority of its bodily function(s)--appetite, digestion and overall good state of mind....and also require uva and uvb for aid in healthy shell, vision, state of mind and alot of other physical elements...now, here is where I believe for the first year the use of long tube uva/uvb with separate heating element is best...a young tort may sit too long under the uva/uvb in a desire to feel the heat from the MVB and in doing so can cause damage to its delicate eyes...also, can contribute to dehydration...however, if you have a heat source that is used in conjunction with a uva/uvb source that is easier on the eyes then the tort can go into the heat and still get some uv exposure but not so bright...not so intense...
> 
> There are others here that think that I am silly for thinking this---however, it is where I sit on this issue....now, I also have to say that there is NOTHING in this world that man has ever created that will replace good ole fashion natural sun time....so if you can get your tort out at least 15 minutes a day then the use of a uv bulb is not as urgent....wait round for the others to offer you up their opinions and experience as well, the more the merrier...



My torts are outside all spring and summer, but here in PA the winters are way to cold so it was time for them to come in. The eyes is what I was worried about as well, I have the bulb pretty high probably about 20 or more inches from the tort. I guess what worries me the most is he sits under the light all day, I will soak him and he will eat some then right back underneath. My 2 year old Leopard has the MVB, but she moves in and out when she wants to. So at this point not sure what to do put back in a regular house hold bulb, with the tube UVB, or leave the MVB bulb there.


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## volcom6981 (Oct 19, 2012)

Well I think in going to change back to the regular house hold bulb, and the tube UVB with the CHE on a t-stat. At least before he would eat, as soon as put the MVB bulb in he is more interested in basking then anything else. I physically move him to his food he eats alittle then right back under the bulb. Before the MVB bulb he was 33 grams and after 27 grams now. So will see what happens.


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## wellington (Oct 19, 2012)

volcom6981 said:


> Well I think in going to change back to the regular house hold bulb, and the tube UVB with the CHE on a t-stat. At least before he would eat, as soon as put the MVB bulb in he is more interested in basking then anything else. I physically move him to his food he eats alittle then right back under the bulb. Before the MVB bulb he was 33 grams and after 27 grams now. So will see what happens.



It really doesn't matter what others use. I personally like the mvb and CHE combo. However, if its not working for you, then you need to change to what does. The best you can do, is what you have done. Observed what works and what doesn't for you and your torts. So good job for paying close attention and being willing to change to something else for the better of the tort. Good luck. Hope he gets back to his normal eating and basking.


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## GBtortoises (Oct 19, 2012)

MVB lamps produce a good but very concentrated heat, light and uvb. In order for a tortoise benefit from any of those three they must remain almost directly under the lamp for long periods of time. Babies, because of their low body mass can very easily dehydrate. When they move out of the light they lose all the benefits of it. If using only an MVB lamp there is no good overall lighting or uvb exposure throughout the rest of the enclosure.
Instead of an MVB lamp for young tortoises a better choice is a combination of a standard incandescent bulb to produce basking heat and localized light along with a tube style UV fluorescent to produce good light and ultraviolet throughout the entire enclosure. This combination allows for the tortoise to not have to sit under the basking light constantly and still have the benefit of daytime lighting and UV.


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## Tom (Oct 19, 2012)

And tell him about the night heat for his marginated, GB.


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## volcom6981 (Oct 19, 2012)

Tom said:


> And tell him about the night heat for his marginated, GB.



I use a CHE on a T-Stat at night?


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## GBtortoises (Oct 20, 2012)

volcom6981 said:


> Tom said:
> 
> 
> > And tell him about the night heat for his marginated, GB.
> ...



I think what Tom is referring to is the fact that you don't need a night time heat source for a Marginated tortoise or other temperate climate species. They should actually have about a 15-20 degree temperature differential from day to night. Night time temperatures can be as low as 50 degrees at night. Indoors rarely are they exposed to temperatures below 60. A good temperature range to shoot for is 58-62. The maximum night time temperature should be 65. But around 60 consistently is fine. Night time temperatures above 65 on a regular basis is much too warm at night for Marginateds and other temperate species.


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## volcom6981 (Oct 20, 2012)

GBtortoises said:


> I think what Tom is referring to is the fact that you don't need a night time heat source for a Marginated tortoise or other temperate climate species. They should actually have about a 15-20 degree temperature differential from day to night. Night time temperatures can be as low as 50 degrees at night. Indoors rarely are they exposed to temperatures below 60. A good temperature range to shoot for is 58-62. The maximum night time temperature should be 65. But around 60 consistently is fine. Night time temperatures above 65 on a regular basis is much too warm at night for Marginateds and other temperate species.



Even for baby that are about 4 months old or so?


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## ascott (Oct 20, 2012)

> The best you can do, is what you have done. Observed what works and what doesn't for you and your torts.



Perfect 

What humidity to you keep in his enclosure?


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## GBtortoises (Oct 21, 2012)

Absolutey. It doesn't matter what age a tortoise is. In the wild babies are exposed to the same elements and temperatures as adults. They don't congregate around a heat lamp at night in the forest. They are evolved to be exposed to the same conditions as an adult. They're on their own in the wild from day one. Exposing them to too much heat at night will cause them to grow at a much faster than normal rate as well as them not establishing a correct day/night routine which they require for normal activity.



volcom6981 said:


> GBtortoises said:
> 
> 
> > I think what Tom is referring to is the fact that you don't need a night time heat source for a Marginated tortoise or other temperate climate species. They should actually have about a 15-20 degree temperature differential from day to night. Night time temperatures can be as low as 50 degrees at night. Indoors rarely are they exposed to temperatures below 60. A good temperature range to shoot for is 58-62. The maximum night time temperature should be 65. But around 60 consistently is fine. Night time temperatures above 65 on a regular basis is much too warm at night for Marginateds and other temperate species.
> ...




Absolutey. It doesn't matter what age a tortoise is. In the wild babies are exposed to the same elements and temperatures as adults. They don't congregate around a heat lamp at night in the forest. They are evolved to be exposed to the same conditions as an adult. They're on their own in the wild from day one. Exposing them to too much heat at night will cause them to grow at a much faster than normal rate as well as them not establishing a correct day/night routine which they require for normal activity.



volcom6981 said:


> GBtortoises said:
> 
> 
> > I think what Tom is referring to is the fact that you don't need a night time heat source for a Marginated tortoise or other temperate climate species. They should actually have about a 15-20 degree temperature differential from day to night. Night time temperatures can be as low as 50 degrees at night. Indoors rarely are they exposed to temperatures below 60. A good temperature range to shoot for is 58-62. The maximum night time temperature should be 65. But around 60 consistently is fine. Night time temperatures above 65 on a regular basis is much too warm at night for Marginateds and other temperate species.
> ...


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## volcom6981 (Oct 21, 2012)

GBtortoises said:


> Absolutey. It doesn't matter what age a tortoise is. In the wild babies are exposed to the same elements and temperatures as adults. They don't congregate around a heat lamp at night in the forest. They are evolved to be exposed to the same conditions as an adult. They're on their own in the wild from day one. Exposing them to too much heat at night will cause them to grow at a much faster than normal rate as well as them not establishing a correct day/night routine which they require for normal activity.
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutey. It doesn't matter what age a tortoise is. In the wild babies are exposed to the same elements and temperatures as adults. They don't congregate around a heat lamp at night in the forest. They are evolved to be exposed to the same conditions as an adult. They're on their own in the wild from day one. Exposing them to too much heat at night will cause them to grow at a much faster than normal rate as well as them not establishing a correct day/night routine which they require for normal activity.





Makes sense to me.




ascott said:


> Perfect
> 
> What humidity to you keep in his enclosure?



Anywhere between 50 and 70.


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## Laurie (Oct 22, 2012)

After reading quite a bit of information regarding mvb vs tube uv and talking with GB about the differences, I switched all my babies over to the long tube uv and a regular lightbulb for a basking spot. 

My adult spent just about all summer outside, I'm using the mvb lights that I had once used in my babies enclosures for him. When they are no good anymore, I'm going to switch him over the the tube/basking light bulb combo.


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## volcom6981 (Oct 22, 2012)

Laurie said:


> After reading quite a bit of information regarding mvb vs tube uv and talking with GB about the differences, I switched all my babies over to the long tube uv and a regular lightbulb for a basking spot.
> 
> My adult spent just about all summer outside, I'm using the mvb lights that I had once used in my babies enclosures for him. When they are no good anymore, I'm going to switch him over the the tube/basking light bulb combo.



Yea I too switched and I running a 60 watt bulb and is keeping a 97-100 degree basking spot, with a tube UVB. The nice thing is there is not all that heat leaving the cool side alittle cooler.

I do have a MVB on my 2 year leopard torts winter enclosure, as he seems to like the heat more then my baby marginated does.


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