# Greenhouse/tortoise table build



## MIReptilian (Jul 26, 2019)

I have been researching, reading, and trying to figure out my best case scenario for an enclosure for 3 baby Hermanns I have coming in the next month or so. I'm all over the map with this stuff and super indecisive. Initially I was going to build a closed chamber, then I thought about buying a closed chamber, then I was going to build a smaller one and a lager one making them modular and able to connect to one another... Use the smaller one to house the babies and then connect the larger and smaller one together when they need more space. I think I have finally decided on what I'm doing and think it's going to work awesome

My problem is that I'm in MI and there is really no way the tortoises can stay outside (full time) from October until April. I will need a comfortable indoor solution for the torts. A closed chamber seemed to make the most sense, but in order to build a big enough closed chamber, it would be costly and still not offer enough room IMO. The Large closed chamber would also take a bit of time to design and build. I don't have a ton of time right now and need something that will be ready when the tortoises arrive in the beginning of September. 

The tortoises will live in my 2000sf basement with an ambient temp 65 degrees. This is also an issue and why I was considering a closed chamber in the first place. Being mostly concrete, the basement is cool and remains that way throughout the year. But it does have two things going for it. It's very large and has 10 foot ceilings! 

I started thinking outside the box and determined that I could easily set up a small greenhouse in my basement that would be easy to heat and humidity could be monitored with no issues. . So I started searching and found a suitable Greenhouse on craigslist for a good price. 







I found the above greenhouse, new in box, for $300.00. I pick it up tomorrow morning and will start assembling it in the coming days. 

Ideally, I would like to either build or buy something for the greenhouse to sit on. The basement floor is concrete and will suck the heat out of the greenhouse pretty easily. I was thinking about a sub floor made out 2x4s and plywood, but I'm not sure that I have the time to build it. Then I was thinking about thick rubber "stall" mats that are used for horses but those aren't cheap either at $35.00 a piece for 6'x4" (I would need 4). I'm still trying to figure out what I'm going to use as an insulating barrier.. Rubber backed area rugs? .. Suggestions welcome. 

The plan is to build an L-shaped tortoise table that fits inside the greenhouse or rather, that the greenhouse is built around. Something that's approximately 4 foot wide and then follows the perimeter side wall and back wall. So approximately 8-10 foot long on one side and 6- 8 foot long on the back wall by 4 foot wide to form an L. I'll put a divider in the table to make a smaller area for the torts while they're babies and then pull the divider out when they're juveniles. The divider could also be used if I need to separate any of the tortoises due to fighting, bullying etc. 

My only concern with this design is spending a small fortune on proper lighting for a table so large. Also, i'm debating how the greenhouse would be heated. Initially I was thinking of an oil filled radiator type space heater but then was considering several CHEs, Still not sure on this either. Suggestions welcome! Is there something else I should consider? 

Do I need UVB for the entire length of the table and will two large Florescent fixtures hung at the proper height above the table be enough for a table of this size? I plan on growing plants in the tortoise table so I will want daylight bulbs as well. I noticed that there are several fixtures available that have dual bulbs (one 12% UVB next to a 6500k daylight tube). Any issues with these? Again, trying to light and heat this enclosure by means that are as cost effective as possible. 

I will update this thread with photos and commentary as I build this greenhouse and huge tortoise table. 
stay tuned. 

any and all opinions, advice, suggestions are welcomed! 

Sorry for being so long winded. 

Jeff


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## Yvonne G (Jul 26, 2019)

I have this one from Harbor Freight with a night box inside.







It's too hot in the summer, but I keep the door open and they go in and out. In the winter, on sunny days, it's much warmer in the GH than the outside temp. It has worked well for two years now. The night box is one of Tom's recipes, with three RHP to heat it up inside.


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## Yvonne G (Jul 26, 2019)




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## NorCal tortoise guy (Jul 26, 2019)

I like the idea though I think an insulated room might serve you better then the green house indoors. The size of the table sounds amazing! I would guess with a couple LED shop lights and a couple spot lights for basking spots and a couple UVB fixtures you would be all set. you could set the back round temp with ether an oil filled heater or several CHEs controlled by a thermostat. I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of how it turns out!


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## MIReptilian (Jul 26, 2019)

NorCal tortoise guy said:


> I like the idea though I think an insulated room might serve you better then the green house indoors. The size of the table sounds amazing! I would guess with a couple LED shop lights and a couple spot lights for basking spots and a couple UVB fixtures you would be all set. you could set the back round temp with ether an oil filled heater or several CHEs controlled by a thermostat. I'm looking forward to seeing pictures of how it turns out!




Thanks. I thought about building a room in the basement but that would get pretty expensive quick. Lumber, insulation, electrical, lighting, floor covering etc 

I might do that eventually but like the greenhouse idea for the time being. I can always line the interior of the greenhouse with foam insulation board if necessary. If I ever decide to build a room, I can use the greenhouse as intended outdoors for vegetables and such. 

I am thinking an oil radiator space heater is probably the best way to heat the greenhouse. I dont know how much heat the CHEs put out or how much energy they use but I cant imagine they would heat the 8x10 area better than a space heater.


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## Maro2Bear (Jul 26, 2019)

MIReptilian said:


> Thanks. I thought about building a room in the basement but that would get pretty expensive quick. Lumber, insulation, electrical, lighting, floor covering etc
> 
> I might do that eventually but like the greenhouse idea for the time being. I can always line the interior of the greenhouse with foam insulation board if necessary. If I ever decide to build a room, I can use the greenhouse as intended outdoors for vegetables and such.
> 
> I am thinking an oil radiator space heater is probably the best way to heat the greenhouse. I dont know how much heat the CHEs put out or how much energy they use but I cant imagine they would heat the 8x10 area better than a space heater.




Definitely oil filled heater, maybe coupled with a few Radiant Heat Panels.

Good luck.

I think i would build a simple platform to keep your gh off the floor. A simple 2x4 frame with cross braces, topped with some plywood.


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## Yvonne G (Jul 26, 2019)

Sorry, I misunderstood. I didn't realize it wold be an indoor greenhouse. I don't see the benefit of having it indoors


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## MIReptilian (Jul 26, 2019)

Maro2Bear said:


> Definitely oil filled heater, maybe coupled with a few Radiant Heat Panels.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> I think i would build a simple platform to keep your gh off the floor. A simple 2x4 frame with cross braces, topped with some plywood.




Yeah, I''ll probably just bite the bullet and build a sub floor for the greenhouse.


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## MIReptilian (Jul 26, 2019)

Yvonne G said:


> Sorry, I misunderstood. I didn't realize it wold be an indoor greenhouse. I don't see the benefit of having it indoors




It's essentially a self contained 8x10ft tortoise habitat room that isn't permanent and can be taken down in an hour if necessary. My basement has an ambient temp of around 65 F which is too cold for an open type tort table. By setting up the greenhouse in the basement, I will only have to heat and monitor humidity inside the 8x10 area. It also offers much more space for the torts compared to a closed chamber. I would have to spend big $$$, and waste a lot of time, to build a closed chamber that would have any where near the square footage. Think of it as a mini tortoise room that will not only house the torts, but be a place to store supplies etc that's completely out of the way. Plus, with the greenhouse already being heated and humid, I could easily grow a bunch of plants in it as well with a few grow lights. I'm going to give it a shot. We'll see how it works. Like i mentioned in a previous post, If it doesn't work as intended, i can always use the greenhouse outside to grow veggies or use it as part of the torts outdoor enclosure.


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## Maro2Bear (Jul 26, 2019)

Yvonne G said:


> Sorry, I misunderstood. I didn't realize it wold be an indoor greenhouse. I don't see the benefit of having it indoors



Much smaller area to heat and maintsin humidity.


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## MIReptilian (Jul 27, 2019)

@Markw84. I hate to bother you again but i need your expert advice. As you can see, I'm going a different route for my enclosure build. 

I plan on using an oil radiator inside my indoor greenhouse to keep ambient temps around 80. 

I'm still confused about UVB lighting. I'd like to grow plants in the tortoise table and have both UVB tubes and some sort of ambient lighting suspended above it. The problem is I'm not sure how many lights I would need and if the dual fixtures (loaded with one t5 HO 12% and one grow tube) would be a good idea? Given my tort table size, how would you lay out the lighting? 

I owe you one for all the help you've given me over the past two weeks. 

Here's the tort table layout looking from above. I plan to hand the lights over it. 

Suggestions on how many uvb and how many grow lights? Should I use LED grow lights?


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## Toddrickfl1 (Jul 27, 2019)

I'm actually thinking of using something like this in my basement for my Redfoot this winter.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RXPHCSR/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20


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## MIReptilian (Jul 27, 2019)

Toddrickfl1 said:


> I'm actually thinking of using something like this in my basement for my Redfoot this winter.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RXPHCSR/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20



Nice. I think I read about somone else using a grow tent in their basement as a tort house


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## Maro2Bear (Jul 27, 2019)

Toddrickfl1 said:


> I'm actually thinking of using something like this in my basement for my Redfoot this winter.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RXPHCSR/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20



Just make sure you tip the DEA that it’s for your tortoise!


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## Kapidolo Farms (Jul 27, 2019)

I think you only need one UV unit, and place it where they can easily access it, they will go there. The rest can be panel LED. Day time 'lighted times of the day' can be lighted with 50 watt incandescent floods in an array of two or three bulbs - set on a timer. The whole greenhouse can be heated with any efficient room space heater on a thermostat. The greenhouse can be set upon 4 x 8 sheets of hard foam insulation panels, joined at the edge with duct tape, then on top of these the cheapest plywood, painted once or twice with a dry-lock type paint. You could secure where they have a seam with staples. 

I have over thought many projects and end up in a corner, the idea of keeping it simple serves me better.


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## Kapidolo Farms (Jul 27, 2019)

i see people using these for a variety of animals for many reasons. it is a good idea.



Toddrickfl1 said:


> I'm actually thinking of using something like this in my basement for my Redfoot this winter.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RXPHCSR/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20


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## MIReptilian (Jul 27, 2019)

Maro2Bear said:


> Just make sure you tip the DEA that it’s for your tortoise!



Legal here in Michigan


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## MIReptilian (Jul 27, 2019)

Kapidolo Farms said:


> I think you only need one UV unit, and place it where they can easily access it, they will go there. The rest can be panel LED. Day time 'lighted times of the day' can be lighted with 50 watt incandescent floods in an array of two or three bulbs - set on a timer. The whole greenhouse can be heated with any efficient room space heater on a thermostat. The greenhouse can be set upon 4 x 8 sheets of hard foam insulation panels, joined at the edge with duct tape, then on top of these the cheapest plywood, painted once or twice with a dry-lock type paint. You could secure where they have a seam with staples.
> 
> I have over thought many projects and end up in a corner, the idea of keeping it simple serves me better.



Thank you. 

I think you mentioned these in another thread some time ago. Any reason I shouldnt get one or two 4 footers and put one uvb bulb and one 6500k bulb in each? 

https://www.zenhydro.com/sun-blaze-t5-ho-42-4-ft-2-lamp.html


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## Kapidolo Farms (Jul 27, 2019)

I could be mistaken, but I don't believe there are suitable LED UV lamps. But there are very good 'general' illumination and plant LED lamps. So if you're going to have one tube fixture, I'd go for a 4 foot two tube and use both tubes for UV emitting tubes, and have the other general illumination be LEDs. If you use light for day time higher heat - that's when the 50watt incandescent flood would come into play.


MIReptilian said:


> Thank you.
> 
> I think you mentioned these in another thread some time ago. Any reason I shouldnt get one or two 4 footers and put one uvb bulb and one 6500k bulb in each?
> 
> https://www.zenhydro.com/sun-blaze-t5-ho-42-4-ft-2-lamp.html


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## Markw84 (Jul 28, 2019)

sorry for the delay, Jeff, but was not "onlne" since yesterday AM.

I agree with William that you only need UVB in one location. I would go central for that with a 4 foot T5 HO UVB. A double tube T5 HO using 12% HO tubes. You would then mount that higher - probably 30" +- or so and it would give a large effective UVI zone over probably a 3' x 5' area of the enclosure. The HO tubes also give off quite a bit of heat and would definitely help in the ambient heating of that greenhouse. I would also use Two double T5 4 foot fixtures for ambient. I would use grow lights in those. Great for ambient lighting and for growing plants. The T5s will also add heat to your room.

I feel the oil filled heaters would not be sufficient for your basement in a large/taller area. They work great in a night box, but that is a confined space. I would go with a space heater of about 1000-1500 watts that is controlled on a built in thermostat. Very common everywhere for heating individual rooms. You might not find it needs to go on much at all as the 6 T5 tubes plus the two 65 watt incandescents will provide a decent amount of heat in that greenhouse during the daytime. You will set the space heater for the desired minimmum ambient heat.

This will create a nice, bright enclosure with a good basking zone they can move towards or away from at will. I would definitely also use lots of plants. Pothos Ivy will do great. Spider plants. Boston ferns. Give them lots of natural light gradients and hiding spots with natural plants.

Here's how I would do that layout:


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## MIReptilian (Jul 28, 2019)

Markw84 said:


> sorry for the delay, Jeff, but was not "onlne" since yesterday AM.
> 
> I agree with William that you only need UVB in one location. I would go central for that with a 4 foot T5 HO UVB. A double tube T5 HO using 12% HO tubes. You would then mount that higher - probably 30" +- or so and it would give a large effective UVI zone over probably a 3' x 5' area of the enclosure. The HO tubes also give off quite a bit of heat and would definitely help in the ambient heating of that greenhouse. I would also use Two double T5 4 foot fixtures for ambient. I would use grow lights in those. Great for ambient lighting and for growing plants. The T5s will also add heat to your room.
> 
> ...



Thank you so much Mark. Like I said, I owe you one for all the advice you've provided. 

I'm going to take your suggestions on the layout. Do you think I should add a few CHEs on timers for the night time? If so, do I place them randomly over the table or directly above the hides I plan on using? 

Another question... any benefit to LED tubes over the fluorescent 6500k? The flourescent will probably help with heating, but the LEDs might be cheaper to run.

Any suggestions on the brands of fixtures? Both for the uvb and grow lights? 

Edit: just to be clear, you're suggesting a double uvb fixture loaded with two t5 ho 12% bulbs? 

I guess I can either set this up right the first time, or try to be cost effective and cheap. It doesnt look like I'm going to be able to do both. The Arcadia fixtures and bulbs I've been looking at are pretty expensive. Buy once cry once?


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## Markw84 (Jul 28, 2019)

MIReptilian said:


> Thank you so much Mark. Like I said, I owe you one for all the advice you've provided.
> 
> I'm going to take your suggestions on the layout. Do you think I should add a few CHEs on timers for the night time? If so, do I place them randomly over the table or directly above the hides I plan on using?
> 
> ...


IN your situation, I think the fluorescent T5 HO grow lights would work best. The LED tubes that actually give the quality of light you want are not less expensive. Cheap ones give off light with a very poor color balance, or color rendering index (CRI). The heat of the HOs will also be of benefit for you here. I use these HO grow lights in a 4x8 closed chamber for my stars in winter. I have issues with overheating when combined with 2 incandescent basking lights as well. In you setup I would think that would be of value.

I see no need for CHEs if you are able to provide and overall ambient heat in the greenhouse. As they age and you use this in winter for sub adults and adults, with Testudo, there is an advantage of even offering a night drop which you can then do easily.

Yes, the arcadia from lightyourreptiles.com seem expensive. However, you want the correct fixture to get the right output of your UVB. Don't go cheap there. You can also limit your UVB to 5-6 hours midday. That will create a much more "red" color light in the basking zone - with your basking incandescent for mornings and later afternoon/evening with a spike of bright with the UVB added for a good UVI in midday. Your tubes will last at least 2-3 years.


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## MIReptilian (Jul 31, 2019)

Well here we go... I'll take photos as I build this thing. 

First step... I needed a subfloor to keep the greenhouse off of the concrete basement floor so it will retain as much heat as possible. Free pallets seemed like a good idea. Layed them down and will screw 3/4" plywood or OSB to the top to create a nice sturdy subfloor to place the greenhouse on.


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## Blackdog1714 (Jul 31, 2019)

WOW! Expensive sub floor! Love the pallets what a solution to a scary project. I used to live in Akron, OH and I thought the winters there were cold- HAHA. I think you are over estimated the ground temp by a good 5-10 degrees. Keep it up your torts might not appreciate what you do, but I do!


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## MIReptilian (Jul 31, 2019)

Moving right along... subfloor now has the deck installed. I may paint it as bare OSB and humidity/water doesnt mix very well. If nothing else, I'll throw some rubber mats down and call it good. Not sure just yet.


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## MIReptilian (Jul 31, 2019)

Couldn't wait. Found some leftover exterior house paint and 30 minutes later, it's painted. Funny...it almost matches the basement floor and walls. 

Ready for the greenhouse.


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## Maro2Bear (Aug 1, 2019)

You might want to get 8 x 10 tarp or two and cover the decking now. Then erect the GH over top. Are you planning on putting a thick layer of cypress mulch or some other substrste inside the greenhouse? ( i kind of foget the master plan )


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## MIReptilian (Aug 1, 2019)

Maro2Bear said:


> You might want to get 8 x 10 tarp or two and cover the decking now. Then erect the GH over top. Are you planning on putting a thick layer of cypress mulch or some other substrste inside the greenhouse? ( i kind of foget the master plan )



I'm building a large L-shaped tortoise table inside the greenhouse. So the tortoises will not be on the subfloor, they'll be up in the table. 

I'm probably going to throw down a couple rubber runners over the deck in the areas where I'll be walking and standing. That should be good enough.


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## Maro2Bear (Aug 1, 2019)

MIReptilian said:


> I'm building a large L-shaped tortoise table inside the greenhouse. So the tortoises will not be on the subfloor, they'll be up in the table.
> 
> I'm probably going to throw down a couple rubber runners over the deck in the areas where I'll be walking and standing. That should be good enough.



Gotcha. That should all work well. Heating the gh this way will be a lot easier. Keep going with the updates.


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## MIReptilian (Aug 2, 2019)

Coming along


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## Blackdog1714 (Aug 4, 2019)

Looking good man looking good!


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## MIReptilian (Aug 13, 2019)

I finally got the greenhouse completely set up in the basement. I spent several nights assembling parts of it and then disassembling the same parts. The problem... the instructions were terrible! Very vague with pointless pictures and missing steps. If I could guess they were written in Chinese and then translated by somone who didn't have a very good grasp of the english language. 

I'm glad that's over. 

Question for everyone. 
Has anyone tried a silicone roof coating to protect the bottom of an enclosure and act as a moisture barrier? I've been eyeing some Henry tropi-cool 100% silicone roof coating. Its $70.00 a gallon at home depot. Was thinking about the pond shield stuff and I would need two kits to get good coverage for $140.00. I may give the Henry stuff a try. 

I welded up two table structures over the last week to create the base for the wooden tortoise table. I had a bunch of steel laying around so it made sense. I'll start building the wooden table tonight. 

Pictures to follow.


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## NorCal tortoise guy (Aug 13, 2019)

Looking forward to the pictures! I’ve been using pvc shower pan liner in My cages works great. It’s 40 mil very strong stuff


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## MIReptilian (Aug 13, 2019)

Got one table painted. The smaller one gets painted tomorrow. I'll start working on the wooden tortoise box tomorrow. Need to head out and get some lumber. 

I may put another coat of paint on it. Painting with spray paint in the 85 degree sun causes the paint to dry too fast and get blotchy.


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## MIReptilian (Aug 13, 2019)

Oh. I may use Benjamin Moore Corotech v430 for the waterproofing on the table. It's suppose to be the same stuff as pond armor, but cheaper. We'll see.


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## MIReptilian (Aug 15, 2019)

More progress. The steel tables are built, painted and moved into the greenhouse. I have a really good start on the wooden table but am still on the fence about how to waterproof the floor and sides. I called a few places about the Benjamin moore corotech v430 epoxy and it's almost impossible to find in my area and only comes in a 2 gallon kit. I dont need that much. 

Thinking of trying a 100% silicon roof coating. May revisit the pond shield as well.


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## JLMDVM (Aug 15, 2019)

You can come work at my place next ! Looks great.


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## Markw84 (Aug 15, 2019)

MIReptilian said:


> I have a really good start on the wooden table but am still on the fence about how to waterproof the floor and sides. I called a few places about the Benjamin moore corotech v430 epoxy and it's almost impossible to find in my area and only comes in a 2 gallon kit. I dont need that much.
> 
> Thinking of trying a 100% silicon roof coating. May revisit the pond shield as well.



I have had really good results so far with Rustoleum Countertop Paint. I have only been using it for 2 1/2 years now, so not a real long time sample. However the enclosures with it after 2 1/2 years show absolutely no breakdown of the paint, blistering or moisture problems. Still looks like when I applied it when I brush back the wet substrate to inspect.

A couple of important points after trying everything I could for years. From fiberglass to epoxy, etc, etc. Use a good exterior grade plywood AC grade. Exterior plywood is a better grade of wood and uses a stronger, water resistant glues in construction. The "A" side of the plywood is of the best grade and defects are plugged. So it paints and seals much better. The "c" side is the bottom side of the plywood. Prime the wood with a decent latex primer. Caulk all the joints. Then apply the countertop paint. I use 3 coats on the very bottom where it will have substrate directly on it. It does give off strong fumes a few days, but it is food safe and made for food prep surfaces.

Another option is to go with expanded PVC board for your table. Or get 1/4" (6mm) PVC board and line the inside with it to waterproof. The wood will give more structural strength and the PVC will be waterproof. Just build a tight-fitting inside layer of PVC inside your table. PVC is extremely easy to work with - cuts, sands, drills easier than plywood and simply glues together (welds) with the same PVC cement used to join plumbing pipes.


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## MIReptilian (Aug 15, 2019)

Coming along. Mocking up the light stands. 
Dont mind my garage, it's a disaster.


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## MIReptilian (Aug 15, 2019)

Markw84 said:


> I have had really good results so far with Rustoleum Countertop Paint. I have only been using it for 2 1/2 years now, so not a real long time sample. However the enclosures with it after 2 1/2 years show absolutely no breakdown of the paint, blistering or moisture problems. Still looks like when I applied it when I brush back the wet substrate to inspect.
> 
> A couple of important points after trying everything I could for years. From fiberglass to epoxy, etc, etc. Use a good exterior grade plywood AC grade. Exterior plywood is a better grade of wood and uses a stronger, water resistant glues in construction. The "A" side of the plywood is of the best grade and defects are plugged. So it paints and seals much better. The "c" side is the bottom side of the plywood. Prime the wood with a decent latex primer. Caulk all the joints. Then apply the countertop paint. I use 3 coats on the very bottom where it will have substrate directly on it. It does give off strong fumes a few days, but it is food safe and made for food prep surfaces.
> 
> Another option is to go with expanded PVC board for your table. Or get 1/4" (6mm) PVC board and line the inside with it to waterproof. The wood will give more structural strength and the PVC will be waterproof. Just build a tight-fitting inside layer of PVC inside your table. PVC is extremely easy to work with - cuts, sands, drills easier than plywood and simply glues together (welds) with the same PVC cement used to join plumbing pipes.



Thanks Mark. I probably should have considered the PVC as that seems like a good idea. I'm too far along with my build at this point. Have you tried the pond shield stuff? I'm still thinking about it but am not sure if 2 kits would be enough for my huge table. Whatever I use, the plan was to go all the way up the sides with at least two coats. Between the tortoises, the greenhouse, lumber etc I have quite a bit of money invested already. But, I dont want to re-do the table because of mold or water damage in the years to come. Decisions.. decisions..

If anyone is considering epoxy for a coating, although long, this guys video is really informative. He's talking about building plywood fish tanks, but the same theories apply. Worth a watch. 






Jeff


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## MIReptilian (Aug 16, 2019)

Well....I'm giving the Henry Tropicool silicone roof coating a try. Bought 1 gallon of it from home Depot for $60.00. I like the sound of this stuff because it's not only environmentally friendly being 100% silicone and solvent free, but it's much cheaper than epoxy, and is made for flat roofs that are subject to pooling water in tropical climates. It's also flexible. The epoxy may have been a bit too rigid when fully cured. If the table ever had to be moved around it might compromise the integrity of the expoxy. I hope it works..


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## MIReptilian (Aug 17, 2019)

When you over build a tortoise table and its damn heavy. Luckily I have a walkout basement.


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## MIReptilian (Aug 17, 2019)

This piece barely made it in the greenhouse.


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## katieandiggy (Aug 17, 2019)

Can’t wait to see this finished project, it’s going to be special


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## MIReptilian (Aug 21, 2019)

Second part of the table installed and one of the 6500k grow lights and the Acadia T5 HO 12% UVB fixture hung. 





Need to hang a basking light, coat the interior of the box with Henry's, and possibly paint the outside. Then I'm done..

I'm trying to figure out how to temporarily situate the lights while the torts are very young. My plan was to put them in a plastic tub(inside the tortoise table) and situate lights over the tub. I dont really think they should have free range of the entire table initially. My thought is that it would be nearly impossible to find the tiny hatchlings if I let them roam the entire table. 
Thoughts on this?


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## MIReptilian (Aug 26, 2019)

Getting closer.


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## method89 (Aug 26, 2019)

Holy Sh*t!... Nice job


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## MIReptilian (Aug 26, 2019)

method89 said:


> Holy Sh*t!... Nice job



Thank you!


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## Blackdog1714 (Aug 26, 2019)

Swanky. You may be right to keep them in the smaller tubs to better control the heat and humidity they need. But if the out grow the table that would be easy to sell!! What a build. Thanks for posting


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## Alex Z (Aug 27, 2019)

Amazing!! Awesome job!


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## MIReptilian (Sep 25, 2019)

Just got word from Chris Leone that my trio of Hermanns should be arriving on Friday. A bit later than expected because I just got back from a business trip and had to push the date back a little.

Needless to say, this is what my table looks like now. I do need to add a few plants but that will come with time. I ordered some opuntia pads and will pot them soon.

Ambient temps in the greenhouse (at tortoise level) are 78.7 degrees with only the lights on. Humidity is at 73% with moistened substrate. At night a 1500w oil filled radiator (under the table) keeps temps at 73.5 while the lights are off. Both basking spots are at at ~93 degrees. 12% UVB fixture covers half of the area and is hung 28 inches above substrate level. Substrate is organic topsoil mixed with several bricks of coconut coir. I need to buy (or make) a couple hides. Trying to think of something that looks like it's natural rather than using a overturned plastic container with a hole cut out.

Put a barrier up so that I'm only using half the table while the torts are young. As they get older, I'll remove the barrier, hand another grow light, and reposition the basking lamps and UVB fixture. During the summer they'll be outside in a custom enclosure that I'll build next spring.

I think I'm ready. At least I hope I am.


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## JLMDVM (Sep 25, 2019)

I got my babies from Chris last week- it’s been a hoot- they’re so cute. Was a bit scary at first, but I’m learning their behaviors now and we’re really enjoying them! Can’t wait to see some pics of yours!


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## MIReptilian (Sep 27, 2019)

JLMDVM said:


> I got my babies from Chris last week- it’s been a hoot- they’re so cute. Was a bit scary at first, but I’m learning their behaviors now and we’re really enjoying them! Can’t wait to see some pics of yours!



They arrived this morning.


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## JLMDVM (Sep 28, 2019)

Your boys look so interested. You did such an amazing job building all that- you should be quite proud! They are amazing little creatures.


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