# SUGGESTION for Setting Up a Baby Habitat



## Yvonne G

There is more than one "right" way to set up a tortoise habitat. Whatever works for you, and provides what the baby needs, that's the "right" way for you. This is how *I* set up my baby habitats.

I start with a plastic Rubbermaid tub, some small sized Orchid Bark, a Zoo Med Power Sun Mercury Vapor Bulb, a rough piece of flat rock or slate for a feeding station, bell-shaped light with a ceramic base, a timer, a Zoo Med light stand, a hiding place and a plug with multiple outlets (can't remember what it's called).






I use plants still in their pots, and I add them first so the pot is sitting on the bare floor of the tub. Then I add the substrate. For babies, I only use about an inch and a half to two inches on the floor of the tub. Then I pour a whole pitcher full of water into the substrate.





Next I stir it up with my hand to get it wet clear through. If it is very dry, it sometimes takes quite a bit of stirring to get it wet.






Now you're ready to add your waterer, feeder and the babies:





The light you buy comes with a suggested height to hang it. This one is on an adjustable stand (Love the Zoo Med light stand!!!), and I'm starting out at 12" above the back of the tortoise. I sometimes stuff the hiding place with moist sphagnum moss. And for sure I'll be covering this whole habitat with foil to keep the cold house air out and the warm, moist air in.


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## Carol S

Yvonne, were did you buy your big bag of orchid bark?


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## Yvonne G

There's a store in California called Orchard Supply Hardware. They have recently been bought by Lowe's, but are still operating as Orchards.


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## the_newzie

Yvonne G said:


> And for sure I'll be covering this whole habitat with foil to keep the cold house air out and the warm, moist air in.



Thanks so much for posting! When you talk about covering the whole habitat with foil (and I'm sorry for the ignorance of this question), I assume the foil won't block the light? I'm just asking as I've always felt the indoor set up I have is suffering from being so open on the top, and I just want to know how much of the top you recommend covering with foil? If it wouldn't be too much to ask (and I apologize if it is), but could you post a picture with the foil in place so I (and other newbies) could see the final product so we can try to imitate your method?


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## Yvonne G

I cover the whole thing, lights and all.


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## the_newzie

Yvonne G said:


> I cover the whole thing, lights and all.



Oooohh! That makes sense!! Thanks, I'll try it out this evening!


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## AmordeAbba

Omg than you so much for this. I was panicking about the one I found yesterday in my yard. I really don't have a lot of money to spend so this sounds better for my baby than trying to get a huge tank!


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## TortMomma

Awesome job demonstrating this. Having a visual is always nice when explaining the set up and now we have something to refer new owners too. 
Where would be a good place to find safe plants (organic) for my enclosure? Id like to get some spider plants for enclosures.


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## Yvonne G

I got the idea from a persistent new comer to the Forum who kept asking and asking and finally asked if we could post pictures of brands, etc.


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## the_newzie

Yvonne G said:


> And for sure I'll be covering this whole habitat with foil to keep the cold house air out and the warm, moist air in.



In your experience, what is a good temp range for desert torts while indoors? I have a few thermometers in Steve's enclosure now, but I am getting a point and shoot temp gun this evening and would like to know what temps you try to maintain. I've read some threads and just want to make sure the temp ranges I'm getting are good for DTs too (found a lot of threads for RF, Leopards, Russians, Etc... Info I've been reading says basking about 100 with a place in the 80s for him to cool off and 75 and above for nighttime). Subsequent question, is the nighttime temp ambient air in the enclosure or should I be taking that reading inside the burrow? Thanks!


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## Carol S

Yvonne G said:


> There's a store in California called Orchard Supply Hardware. They have recently been bought by Lowe's, but are still operating as Orchards.



Yvonne, thanks for the information.


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## Yvonne G

the_newzie said:


> In your experience, what is a good temp range for desert torts while indoors? I have a few thermometers in Steve's enclosure now, but I am getting a point and shoot temp gun this evening and would like to know what temps you try to maintain. I've read some threads and just want to make sure the temp ranges I'm getting are good for DTs too (found a lot of threads for RF, Leopards, Russians, Etc... Info I've been reading says basking about 100 with a place in the 80s for him to cool off and 75 and above for nighttime). Subsequent question, is the nighttime temp ambient air in the enclosure or should I be taking that reading inside the burrow? Thanks!



I'm not a good one to ask this question. I don't monitor temperatures. I put on the light and if the tortoises are active and are eating, I assume it's ok.


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## rhondak

Carol S said:


> Yvonne, were did you buy your big bag of orchid bark?


Thatpetplace.com is a good place to order the bark online. I buy the 3 pack of bricks and you just mix it with water before putting it in the enclosire. It is so much cheaper than buying them at our local pet store.


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## Yvonne G

I think you're probably talking about coco coir. Orchid bark doesn't come in compressed bricks.


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## terryo

That was a great post Yvonne. I do about the same except since I have every size tank all over my house I use a glass tank.


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## el_ote

thanks for the write up! very informative. when you say you mix a pitcher in the rubbermaid tub, how moist do you try to make it? is there a meter, a rule of thumb? I was thinking of using top soil as in the care sheet, but do I need to add water as well? sorry for all the ?'s
edit:
what plants are suggested for a baby hermanns, planted as you did there?


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## Yvonne G

I don't care if I've put in too much water. With the orchid bark, the lights dry out the top layer, so the babies aren't sitting in water, even though if you dig down, it's very wet underneath.

If you leave the plants in the pots, sitting the pots down on the bare floor of the habitat then piling up the substrate around the pot, it really doesn't matter what kind of plant you use, because the babies can't reach the plant to eat it. In the past I have used sansevieria, wandering jew, spider plant, jade plant, haworthia, African violets, violas, pansies, hosta...there are many, many plants that you can use.


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## Amanda81

Yvonne G said:


> There is more than one "right" way to set up a tortoise habitat. Whatever works for you, and provides what the baby needs, that's the "right" way for you. This is how *I* set up my baby habitats.
> 
> I start with a plastic Rubbermaid tub, some small sized Orchid Bark, a Zoo Med Power Sun Mercury Vapor Bulb, a rough piece of flat rock or slate for a feeding station, bell-shaped light with a ceramic base, a timer, a Zoo Med light stand, a hiding place and a plug with multiple outlets (can't remember what it's called).
> 
> View attachment 104657
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use plants still in their pots, and I add them first so the pot is sitting on the bare floor of the tub. Then I add the substrate. For babies, I only use about an inch and a half to two inches on the floor of the tub. Then I pour a whole pitcher full of water into the substrate.
> 
> View attachment 104658
> 
> 
> 
> Next I stir it up with my hand to get it wet clear through. If it is very dry, it sometimes takes quite a bit of stirring to get it wet.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 104659
> 
> 
> Now you're ready to add your waterer, feeder and the babies:
> 
> 
> View attachment 104660
> 
> 
> The light you buy comes with a suggested height to hang it. This one is on an adjustable stand (Love the Zoo Med light stand!!!), and I'm starting out at 12" above the back of the tortoise. I sometimes stuff the hiding place with moist sphagnum moss. And for sure I'll be covering this whole habitat with foil to keep the cold house air out and the warm, moist air in.


Do u use any type of heat source at night? Like a CHE or something? I usually keep my cool side around 80-82 and I think my temps would drop low at night without a heat source.


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## Yvonne G

Yes, I'm sorry...I should have mentioned that. I have two light fixtures. One holds the day light and the other holds a 60 watt black incandescent bulb. Some folks don't like using red or black bulbs, but I've been using them for years and years and have never had a tortoise get up at night because he thought it was day. If you don't want to use a black bulb you can use a CHE instead.


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## JasonandMareena

you guys raise them to sell or keep them all?


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## Yvonne G

I sell the baby leopards and adopt out the desert and Texas babies as it's illegal to sell them.


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## JasonandMareena

ok thank you im just wondering


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## Tortimomoftx

Yvonne G said:


> There is more than one "right" way to set up a tortoise habitat. Whatever works for you, and provides what the baby needs, that's the "right" way for you. This is how *I* set up my baby habitats.
> 
> I start with a plastic Rubbermaid tub, some small sized Orchid Bark, a Zoo Med Power Sun Mercury Vapor Bulb, a rough piece of flat rock or slate for a feeding station, bell-shaped light with a ceramic base, a timer, a Zoo Med light stand, a hiding place and a plug with multiple outlets (can't remember what it's called).
> 
> View attachment 104657
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use plants still in their pots, and I add them first so the pot is sitting on the bare floor of the tub. Then I add the substrate. For babies, I only use about an inch and a half to two inches on the floor of the tub. Then I pour a whole pitcher full of water into the substrate.
> 
> View attachment 104658
> 
> 
> 
> Next I stir it up with my hand to get it wet clear through. If it is very dry, it sometimes takes quite a bit of stirring to get it wet.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 104659
> 
> 
> Now you're ready to add your waterer, feeder and the babies:
> 
> 
> View attachment 104660
> 
> 
> The light you buy comes with a suggested height to hang it. This one is on an adjustable stand (Love the Zoo Med light stand!!!), and I'm starting out at 12" above the back of the tortoise. I sometimes stuff the hiding place with moist sphagnum moss. And for sure I'll be covering this whole habitat with foil to keep the cold house air out and the warm, moist air in.


Yvonne,

Power Sun 160 w or 100 w? BTW, thanks so much for this and the photos. Really good for beginners like me.


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## Yvonne G

I have never used anything bigger than a 100 watt, however, it all depends upon how large your container is. You may need a higher wattage to get the desired temperature inside the habitat. You can test it out with a regular 100 watt incandescent bulb and see if that's warm enough.


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## New Desert Tortoise Mommy

Love it


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## feister47

Great guide, does this refer to only redfoots? Or can it apply to Mediterranean species like Greek and Hermann's?

Thanks


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## Yvonne G

The babies I set up are desert tortoises, leopard tortoises, Texas tortoises, box turtles, yellowfoot and Russian tortoises. I've never had a baby redfooted tortoise.

We have a wonderful care sheet for Greeks and Hermanni. Each is shown at the top of their sections here on the Forum.


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## feister47

Oh, it just sort of looked like a red foot setup. I'm assuming it would work with them since it has worked with yellow foots


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## BeeBee*BeeLeaves

Always excellent Yvonne! 
And baby owners, take good heed from Yvonne's experience. 
Babies are fragile and nerve wracking, nerve destroying, in my opinion. Your set up has to be on target so they can thrive.
And survive.


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## mangococonut

Hello,
I've set everything up but I'm still a little confused on exactly where the lights go. I see that your basking light is pretty much in the middle of your tank. I have mine in one far corner and then a che in the other corner (both on the back side corners of the tank). I put the humid hide under the che but it doesn't seem to be on during the day because the mv basking light is on. Should these lamps be side by side or should the hide be under the lamp directly. Sorry for more questions, I just don't see exactly how to position the lights in your setup and with the hide. I actually only see the log hide - is that all they need? I had another member email me about making a humid hide out of a plastic box and I did that and they seem to really like it, but I'm just a little confused so I want to make sure I'm doing it right. Thank you.


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## Yvonne G

Since I don't care if I have a warm side/cool side, I place my light in the middle so the whole area can benefit from the heat. I figure if they want to get cooler they'll go into their hiding place or burrow down.

Every one does it just a little bit differently. The purpose of this thread was to let people see the supplies they need. Why don't you re-post your post in a new thread under the habitat section so you can get more opinions on set up.


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## mangococonut

Thanks so much! I honestly thought about posting a new post but I didn't want to be disrespectful to the who took the time to send me a note already. It was just a very different setup. There seems to be a lot of different ways to do it and some people have the hides in the warm wet area, some don't have the wet, some have it all wet - it can all be a little confusing. I followed yours because I had the photo so I knew I was at least setting it up correctly, and you seem as others do to really be experts. I was just confused if the hide goes under the night heat lamp as I have it, or both the lamps just go right up the center.


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## Tidgy's Dad

Really, really useful and informative thread for us learners Yvonne. 
Thank you.


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## John84

When is it time to move them the the next size enclosure?


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## Yvonne G

If you start with a big enough container, you can keep them in it until they're big enough to live outside during the day, then back indoors at night.


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## John84

Yvonne G said:


> If you start with a big enough container, you can keep them in it until they're big enough to live outside during the day, then back indoors at night.


I know that's where I messed up. I started off with a 49 gal breeder and was wondering how long it was ok to house him there.


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## John84

40*


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## Camp

Thank you for posting your set up for your babies. I do have a question. I am soon to be getting Eastern Hermanns hatchlings, (beyond excited!) from @HermanniChris , could I just cut out about half the top of the rubbermaid container use hardware cloth to cover it and set my lamp stand over that side. Would this hold in enough humidity for these babies? Also what type meter is everyone using to check humidity levels? I already have the zoomed powersun lamp and lampstand, ReptiTemp 500R Thermostat, and a timer for the light. I plan on using a topsoil/coir mixture for the substrate. I don't plan on using heat at night because after questions and research I am finding that Hermann's need to cool down at night to 60F-70F. Also how wet is too wet for the substrate and would I mist just when the top layer dries or mist daily anyway?


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## Yvonne G

You may still need to cover or partially cover the habitat to keep the warm, moist air inside. I don't think misting the substrate gets it wet enough.


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## Paddy

You've mentioned that you covered the opening of the enclosed with aluminum foil, how does the light penetrate through that then ?


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## Tidgy's Dad

Paddy said:


> You've mentioned that you covered the opening of the enclosed with aluminum foil, how does the light penetrate through that then ?


You have to leave a hole for the lights.


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## seancm22

Hello, I recently purchased a leopard hatchling. Is a large domed fixture okay? I am using a 100W Powersun bulb as well. Whenever he is in the enclosure, he doesn't move around too much and his eyes are closed. When I take him outside he moves around quite a bit and he seems alright. He is moving around with his eyes open and everything. I am using coco coir and sphagnum moss in the enclosure and have a clay pot for a hide. He gets daily soakings and eats sporadically throughout the day. I have been feeding him spring mix and have been sprinkling vitamins on the food 2-3 times a week. His shell is a little soft as well. Is there anything I need to do differently?


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## Nathan.

I'm not an expert by any means these are just my thoughts. Maybe he is too cold when he's inside so he just curious up in his shell and hangs out until you put him outside and he warms up.


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## Tidgy's Dad

Your really need a bigger enclosure and a way of keeping in your heat and humidity. 
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/closed-chambers.32333/
Even tinfoil or plastic film should help to begin, but leave holes for the lights.
What do you use for night heat or is it naturally hot and humid where you are?


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## Kapidolo Farms

Tidgy's Dad said:


> You have to leave a hole for the lights.



Not exactly, the lights are tented under the foil, no hole. The point of foil is it won't matter how hot it gets from the lights as a heat source.


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## Kapidolo Farms

Tidgy's Dad said:


> Your really need a bigger enclosure and a way of keeping in your heat and humidity.
> http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/closed-chambers.32333/
> Even tinfoil or plastic film should help to begin, but leave holes for the lights.
> What do you use for night heat or is it naturally hot and humid where you are?


Between Tom's excellent large hatchling enclosures and Yvonne's smaller one is this idea I use, about in the middle.
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/chambers-my-take-of-the-idea.77044/


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## Tidgy's Dad

Will said:


> Not exactly, the lights are tented under the foil, no hole. The point of foil is it won't matter how hot it gets from the lights as a heat source.


ok, ok, you're right, I didn't explain it very well.


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## seancm22

I can get a bigger tub. I got that one because it was the only tub that wasn't clear at Home Depot. I had a sulcata before this little one and had a clear tub. He spent his days wandering the edges looking out. I live in Texas so it stays warm and doesn't get below 70 at night.


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## Tidgy's Dad

seancm22 said:


> I can get a bigger tub. I got that one because it was the only tub that wasn't clear at Home Depot. I had a sulcata before this little one and had a clear tub. He spent his days wandering the edges looking out. I live in Texas so it stays warm and doesn't get below 70 at night.


A bigger clear sided enclosure is fine as you can put masking tape or the like around the bottom so the tortoise can't see out.


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## Alaura

Thanks for posting! I will definitely be trying this once Steve absorbs his yolk sac and can move. I'm just curious what type of plants you put in the enclosure?


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## Yvonne G

I have a pretty large collection of cactus and succulents, and I just pick out some that are in smaller pots.


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## Tiny Tortoise

Do you need UVB? I have a Basking light and a UVB light provided .Is the UVB necessary? You seem to only have one light...


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## JoesMum

UVB is essential so your tort can make the Vitamin D it needs to help it absorb calcium from its diet. 

Some people use two bulbs - separate basking and UVB. 

Some people use a single MVB (Mercury Vapour Bulb) that provides both in a single bulb. The snag is that the UVB from a MVB bulb dwindles very quickly. MVB bulbs must be replaced every 6-9 months - long before the bulb actually blows.


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## Yvonne G

Tiny Tortoise said:


> Do you need UVB? I have a Basking light and a UVB light provided .Is the UVB necessary? You seem to only have one light...



Actually, in my baby enclosure, I have three light fixtures - a black light on either end for heat and a UVB light in the middle. My UVB light provides plenty of heat. I don't need a "basking light" because the 100 watt Zoo Med Mercury Vapor Bulb IS a basking light.


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## Dipa

So if you put the tort in the sunlight
Is it necessary to use uvb bulb?
If no then for how much long he needed to stay in sunlight?


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## Maria Ohlson

Here is for my hatchling Testudo hermanni.


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## terryo

I love your set up. I am a plant person so the more plants you have the better for me. I really know next to nothing about your tortoise, but that's a perfect set up for a box turtle. I love it!


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## terryo

Here are some pictures of my hibernation cave. I hope I can do this.....not too good with adding pictures here. One side of my garden is elevated and that is where the cave is. I loosen the soil to about 1 1/2 feet. It is garden soil with peat moss added, and some dead leaf litter. Make sure everything is dry. Then I add about two big black garbage bags of leaf litter, and on top of that I put a bag of pine hay that I collect in the woods. I put a piece of ply wood on top to cover the cave and then another piece of plywood with an old pool liner stapled to it. I add some heavy stones on top so no wind can blow it away. We get some pretty big Winter storms here. Sometimes its completely cover with 2 feet of snow. I don't worry about heavy rains as this section is elevated and the water runs down and I have about 4 or 5 weep holes in the stone around the garden.


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## terryo

OK. I have no idea if I did this right or if you can see the pictures.


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## WithLisa

Maria Ohlson said:


> Here is for my hatchling Testudo hermanni.
> View attachment 235801
> View attachment 235802
> View attachment 235803


Perfect!  
I always feel sorry for all the baby Hermanns that have to sit in the open in an empty enclosure, they are supposed to live hidden between plants.


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## txturtledude

I do a cheap mixing tub from Home Depot, a 4’x2’ Ogrow Mini Greenhouse to enclose the chamber, a homemade workbench, a CHE, a 45 watt incandescent flood bulb, a 10” UVB Reptisun tube bulb, a thermostat, a timer, a plastic bowl for a humid hide, a small flower pot base for a water bowl, and a small tile for an eating dish. Pretty low cost setup and works great...
















...and this guy really seems to like it.


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## Brockazoid

Yvonne G said:


> There is more than one "right" way to set up a tortoise habitat. Whatever works for you, and provides what the baby needs, that's the "right" way for you. This is how *I* set up my baby habitats.
> 
> I start with a plastic Rubbermaid tub, some small sized Orchid Bark, a Zoo Med Power Sun Mercury Vapor Bulb, a rough piece of flat rock or slate for a feeding station, bell-shaped light with a ceramic base, a timer, a Zoo Med light stand, a hiding place and a plug with multiple outlets (can't remember what it's called).
> 
> View attachment 104657
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use plants still in their pots, and I add them first so the pot is sitting on the bare floor of the tub. Then I add the substrate. For babies, I only use about an inch and a half to two inches on the floor of the tub. Then I pour a whole pitcher full of water into the substrate.
> 
> View attachment 104658
> 
> 
> 
> Next I stir it up with my hand to get it wet clear through. If it is very dry, it sometimes takes quite a bit of stirring to get it wet.
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 104659
> 
> 
> Now you're ready to add your waterer, feeder and the babies:
> 
> 
> View attachment 104660
> 
> 
> The light you buy comes with a suggested height to hang it. This one is on an adjustable stand (Love the Zoo Med light stand!!!), and I'm starting out at 12" above the back of the tortoise. I sometimes stuff the hiding place with moist sphagnum moss. And for sure I'll be covering this whole habitat with foil to keep the cold house air out and the warm, moist air in.


How do you cover it with foil without blocking the light? The reason I ask is cause I'd like to do the same.do u have a picture of what it looks like when you do cover it?


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## terryo

I think I posted the hibernation pictures on the wrong thread. lol OMG! I'm nuts now.......sorry.


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## Maria Ohlson

WithLisa said:


> Perfect!
> I always feel sorry for all the baby Hermanns that have to sit in the open in an empty enclosure, they are supposed to live hidden between plants.


Yes all my hatchlings always hide in the plants or dig holes under the grass. The plants also give a good humidity for them and good foodsource so they can graze when they want. I grow plants on the side of their box and replace plants if they die or get eaten


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## Yvonne G

Today I set up another indoor enclosure. My tortoise partner, Will, loaned me one of his Vision cages that he's not using at the moment, so that means I can move my "keeper" from the latest batch of baby leopards into the Vision cage and upgrade my YF baby into a slightly larger space. The Vision cage:




I had to move the YFs enclosure off that cabinet next to the washer to make room for the Vision cage (and I see that it's not sitting straight on the cabinet. That deeply offends my sense of symmetry!!!! I must fix that right away!!! As you can see, now the YF is sitting on the washer and I have several loads of washing to do, so that has to go mighty quickly.




I broke down the baby leopard's enclosure and got it off the kitchen table, and started setting up a new, bigger space for the YF. I really like my homemade light stand. It's very stable because the "foot" is under the enclosure. :





Then I've hung a UVB tube and a 25 watt CHE. I see (something I didn't realize at the time) that I've screwed the CHE into a regular Bakelite fixture. That needs to be mounted in a ceramic fixture. I'll change that out as soon as I'm finished here.




Next I wrapped the back and sides with kitchen foil. You can use plastic film too.




Next I cut a piece of plastic film to fit the front.




You can make it long enough to tuck under the front of the enclosure to hold it closed tighter. Staple it to the wood cross piece, but be careful to not staple into your electric cords. To administer to the inside, you just fold the plastic over the top.




This is the guy that's going to live in there. I hatched this YF from an egg and he was raised in the plastic covered tub you see up above sitting on my washing machine.






This little Tuff Tub isn't big enough for a tortoise of this size, but he spends the summer outside.


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## Mindy19998highway30

Maria Ohlson said:


> Here is for my hatchling Testudo hermanni.
> View attachment 235801
> View attachment 235802
> View attachment 235803


I love this! I have a rabbit cage about like this I'm going to turn into a sulcata enclosure and I want alot of plants to , I'm still trying to decide on plants and substrate.


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## sarah.mandol

Is coconut coir okay for hatchlings? And at what day do you put them on substrate after incubation? Thanks!


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## Yvonne G

I've always used small grade fir bark. It's less messy than coir. I leave them in the incubator until the yolk is fully absorbed, then they go right into an enclosure with substrate.


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## Domm

the_newzie said:


> In your experience, what is a good temp range for desert torts while indoors? I have a few thermometers in Steve's enclosure now, but I am getting a point and shoot temp gun this evening and would like to know what temps you try to maintain. I've read some threads and just want to make sure the temp ranges I'm getting are good for DTs too (found a lot of threads for RF, Leopards, Russians, Etc... Info I've been reading says basking about 100 with a place in the 80s for him to cool off and 75 and above for nighttime). Subsequent question, is the nighttime temp ambient air in the enclosure or should I be taking that reading inside the burrow? Thanks!



Is it ok if I completely close the lid on the rubbermaid at night? Will it restrict oxygen if its closed shut ?


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## dprince

Yvonne G said:


> I've always used small grade fir bark. It's less messy than coir. I leave them in the incubator until the yolk is fully absorbed, then they go right into an enclosure with substrate.



Hi Yvonne,

Where do you get your bark?


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## Yvonne G

chewy.com sells it for around $16 a bag if you're just filling a smallish enclosure. If I need a larger amount I ask my local nursery to order it for me.


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## VegasJeff

sarah.mandol said:


> Is coconut coir okay for hatchlings? And at what day do you put them on substrate after incubation? Thanks!



I'm using Coconut Coir right now and I'm not too thrilled with it. The tortoise gets it all over his food and in his water.


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## surfergirl

Yvonne G said:


> I'm not a good one to ask this question. I don't monitor temperatures. I put on the light and if the tortoises are active and are eating, I assume it's ok.




This is the secret to great keepers. watching a tortoise's behavior tells us so much! After yrs of experience you probably have an incredible sense for all the correct conditions!


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## dalein

Yvonne G said:


> Yes, I'm sorry...I should have mentioned that. I have two light fixtures. One holds the day light and the other holds a 60 watt black incandescent bulb. Some folks don't like using red or black bulbs, but I've been using them for years and years and have never had a tortoise get up at night because he thought it was day. If you don't want to use a black bulb you can use a CHE instead.


I use black bulb too and have no problems. My baby sleeps all night, and never jump up thinking it's a day))). I have thermostatic device connected to the black lamp and when the temperature inside my terrarium drops lawer then my setting, the lamp turns on.


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## Marley0101

the_newzie said:


> Thanks so much for posting! When you talk about covering the whole habitat with foil (and I'm sorry for the ignorance of this question), I assume the foil won't block the light? I'm just asking as I've always felt the indoor set up I have is suffering from being so open on the top, and I just want to know how much of the top you recommend covering with foil? If it wouldn't be too much to ask (and I apologize if it is), but could you post a picture with the foil in place so I (and other newbies) could see the final product so we can try to imitate your method?


Sorry I have a dumb question...the foil covering everything won't enable them to breath?


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## Yvonne G

Marley0101 said:


> Sorry I have a dumb question...the foil covering everything won't enable them to breath?


No, it's not air tight.


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## Marley0101

Perfect thank u


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