# Single Tortoise Night Box



## Tom

I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll need something else for the dead of winter. Or you can move South! 

The top of this box is half a sheet of plywood, insulated and sealed, so 4x4 feet. The inside of the box ends up being around 40x40 inches when its all done. I use an 18x28 inch Kane heat mat on the floor, and a 21" radiant heat panel on the top. Both are controlled by the same thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller
I lower the RHP so that it is within 6-8 inches of the tortoises carapace that lives in the box. I like to screw a plastic shoe box to the back of the box to contain all the extra wires and thermostat. Weather strip seals the top where the hinged lid meets it, and I use plastic freezer stripping across the door to hold in heat when the door is open. The door drops down like a drawbridge and makes a ramp fro the tortoise to get in and out easier. I latch the door shut every night and open the door every morning.

In summer our daytime highs are usually right around 100, with night time lows around 65. I unplug the boxes during this time and temps stay between 70 and 90 in them. In Fall, we have warm sunny days usually into December, so I set the thermostat to 80. As soon as the weather turns cold in winter, I bump the thermostat up to 86, so they always have an area to get warmer in on a cold rainy day here. Spring time brings back warmer sunny days, so I lower the box temp back down to 80. This routine works great for any tropical species like Stars, radiata, sulcatas and leopards.

Here is the box during construction. I frame the plywood walls with 2x4s and use 1.5" rigid foam as insulation. Then I seal it with silicone caulking and cover the walls with plywood inside.



Here is all the electrical stuff going into it:






Here I want to show the weather stripping in place, and the drip loop. The drip loop is simply draping the cord down a bit so that when it rains, the water drips down the cord to the ground instead of following the cord downhill right into the box.



Ready to keep a tortoise warm and safe at night:



This is a great way to house a large leopard or sulcata in a relatively warm climate. We get cold winter nights in the 20s and this box, built and heated this way, keeps them in the 80s. Because my climate is so dry, I usually add a 5 gallon bucket or some tubs of water to generate some ambient humidity inside the box. People in the South East US wouldn't need to do this.

Questions and conversation are welcome! 

For larger tortoises, multiple tortoises, and a different heating strategy, see this thread:





Double Door Night Box


As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...




tortoiseforum.org


----------



## Kim's petunia

OK, that's what I was afraid of in the long run it wasn't going to work. I will be using your designs to build her a house. I live on the east coast of Florida so it rains a lot in the summer hot humid. that's why I don't want her staying outside at night ,but she needs a little house to go into. If they get cold during the day , and your not home will they go in it.


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## Blackdog1714

Kim's petunia said:


> OK, that's what I was afraid of in the long run it wasn't going to work. I will be using your designs to build her a house. I live on the east coast of Florida so it rains a lot in the summer hot humid. that's why I don't want her staying outside at night ,but she needs a little house to go into. If they get cold during the day , and your not home will they go in it.


Do it beach style and put it up on pylons with a good steady ramp


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## Kim's petunia

Blackdog1714 said:


> Do it beach style and put it up on pylons with a good steady ramp


I can do that


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## Tom

Kim's petunia said:


> If they get cold during the day , and your not home will they go in it.



Most of them learn to use their houses as shelter from the cold and the elements. However, there are no guarantees. Most of the time mine put themselves away on cold days and nights. Most of the time... Every night I go around the whole ranch and make sure each and every tortoise has found its way back into its night box before shutting their doors for the night. Every once in a while, one of the female leopards will be parked over in a corner of the yard somewhere.


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## Kim's petunia

Ok. I am trying to get a handle on what to expect.


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## Tom

Kim's petunia said:


> Ok. I am trying to get a handle on what to expect.


Copy that. Questions are welcome. Fire away!


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## Toddrickfl1

Thanks, building one of these today. Going to do 2x2 though.


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## Toddrickfl1

2x2 didn't leave very much space inside. I ended up going 4x2


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## Connie Jo

Tom said:


> Copy that. Questions are welcome. Fire away!


I have a Inkbird TCL & can’t figure out how to set the temp for the heater. Any suggestions


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## Tom

Connie Jo said:


> I have a Inkbird TCL & can’t figure out how to set the temp for the heater. Any suggestions


Do you mean ITC?

I don't have that model, but it looks similar to any other. Did it come with an instruction manual? I see that it has a plug labeled for heating and another for cooling. You'd have to use the correct one.


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## Connie Jo

Tom said:


> Do you mean ITC?
> 
> I don't have that model, but it looks similar to any other. Did it come with an instruction manual? I see that it has a plug labeled for heating and another for cooling. You'd have to use the correct one.


Yes, ITC, can I plug anything into the cool plug or just use the heat plug? It comes with a manual but is confusing with too much information


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## Tom

Connie Jo said:


> Yes, ITC, can I plug anything into the cool plug or just use the heat plug? It comes with a manual but is confusing with too much information


The cool plug would operate an AC unit, or maybe a cooling fan. Don't really need that in most cases.


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## Tolis

Thank you Tom I will use that for my baby aldabra. Is seems that we live in similar climates so it should work. 
In the summer the humidity drops to 40% I think a 5gal bucket wont be enough I might have to buy a humidifier. Do you have any suggestions?


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## TracyD

Tom said:


> I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll need something else for the dead of winter. Or you can move South!
> 
> The top of this box is half a sheet of plywood, insulated and sealed, so 4x4 feet. The inside of the box ends up being around 40x40 inches when its all done. I use an 18x28 inch Kane heat mat on the floor, and a 21" radiant heat panel on the top. Both are controlled by the same thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller
> I lower the RHP so that it is within 6-8 inches of the tortoises carapace that lives in the box. I like to screw a plastic shoe box to the back of the box to contain all the extra wires and thermostat. Weather strip seals the top where the hinged lid meets it, and I use plastic freezer stripping across the door to hold in heat when the door is open. The door drops down like a drawbridge and makes a ramp fro the tortoise to get in and out easier. I latch the door shut every night and open the door every morning.
> 
> In summer our daytime highs are usually right around 100, with night time lows around 65. I unplug the boxes during this time and temps stay between 70 and 90 in them. In Fall, we have warm sunny days usually into December, so I set the thermostat to 80. As soon as the weather turns cold in winter, I bump the thermostat up to 86, so they always have an area to get warmer in on a cold rainy day here. Spring time brings back warmer sunny days, so I lower the box temp back down to 80. This routine works great for any tropical species like Stars, radiata, sulcatas and leopards.
> 
> Here is the box during construction. I frame the plywood walls with 2x4s and use 1.5" rigid foam as insulation. Then I seal it with silicone caulking and cover the walls with plywood inside.
> View attachment 291639
> 
> 
> Here is all the electrical stuff going into it:
> View attachment 291640
> 
> 
> View attachment 291641
> 
> 
> Here I want to show the weather stripping in place, and the drip loop. The drip loop is simply draping the cord down a bit so that when it rains, the water drips down the cord to the ground instead of following the cord downhill right into the box.
> View attachment 291642
> 
> 
> Ready to keep a tortoise warm and safe at night:
> View attachment 291643
> 
> 
> This is a great way to house a large leopard or sulcata in a relatively warm climate. We get cold winter nights in the 20s and this box, built and heated this way, keeps them in the 80s. Because my climate is so dry, I usually add a 5 gallon bucket or some tubs of water to generate some ambient humidity inside the box. People in the South East US wouldn't need to do this.
> 
> Questions and conversation are welcome!
> 
> For larger tortoises, multiple tortoises, and a different heating strategy, see this thread:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double Door Night Box
> 
> 
> As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tortoiseforum.org


Thank you for the great info!


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## succulentsandsunshine

@Tom this is so helpful to see! And simple enough to build out. I really appreciate all you help and input! 

I have quite a few questions... and if they're answered somewhere else, feel free to link up other posts. I've been down a rabbit hole of posts here and happy to read more! 

Do you put food or drinking water inside these at all? Or do they get enough during the day when they're outside? 

What is your target humidity for them as they get larger? I assume the humidity levels will still help reduce pyramiding as they get older? 

How often do you close the doors at night? Just when temps are below freezing? 

I guess ultimately I'm asking what your winter nightly routine is for them. 

I'm in Gilbert, AZ so my winter climate is similar to yours. I'm still a couple years off from doing this, but figured I'd ask while I'm thinking about it ?


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## Tom

succulentsandsunshine said:


> @Tom this is so helpful to see! And simple enough to build out. I really appreciate all you help and input!
> 
> I have quite a few questions... and if they're answered somewhere else, feel free to link up other posts. I've been down a rabbit hole of posts here and happy to read more!
> 
> Do you put food or drinking water inside these at all? Or do they get enough during the day when they're outside?
> 
> What is your target humidity for them as they get larger? I assume the humidity levels will still help reduce pyramiding as they get older?
> 
> How often do you close the doors at night? Just when temps are below freezing?
> 
> I guess ultimately I'm asking what your winter nightly routine is for them.
> 
> I'm in Gilbert, AZ so my winter climate is similar to yours. I'm still a couple years off from doing this, but figured I'd ask while I'm thinking about it ?


No food for water inside the box. The box is to simulate a burrow for them. They eat and drink outside the "burrow".

Any growing tortoise needs humidity. I put tubs or buckets of water in the night box and humidity is what it is.

I close doors every night. This keeps them warm, keeps them where I want them, keeps predators out, and reduces electrical usage tremendously. I then open the door every morning.


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## Tim Carlisle

Tom said:


> I close doors every night. This keeps them warm, keeps them where I want them, keeps predators out, and reduces electrical usage tremendously. I then open the door every morning.



I 100% concur.


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## succulentsandsunshine

Perfect. Thank you!


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## Freedomrider13

Tom said:


> No food for water inside the box. The box is to simulate a burrow for them. They eat and drink outside the "burrow".
> 
> Any growing tortoise needs humidity. I put tubs or buckets of water in the night box and humidity is what it is.
> 
> I close doors every night. This keeps them warm, keeps them where I want them, keeps predators out, and reduces electrical usage tremendously. I then open the door every morning.


Hey Tom! 

What substrate you use in your nightbox? I’m building a super nice one right now, all insulated ?? Thanks for all your tips!


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## Tolis

If i recall correctly he doesnt just puts some dirt to make it easier to clean. Good looking box you have there.


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## AgataP

@Tom are the Kane heat mats best thing available? 
For wet/winter time I think I will have Herbie live in a basement when he gets older. Have 3 empty rooms available.


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## Tolis

AgataP said:


> @Tom are the Kane heat mats best thing available?
> For wet/winter time I think I will have Herbie live in a basement when he gets older. Have 3 empty rooms available.


Kane and osborne industries make the most reliable heat maps from what I could find out. Unfortunately for me neither is available outside the US


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## AgataP

Tortoiseforumaccount said:


> Kane and osborne industries make the most reliable heat maps from what I could find out. Unfortunately for me neither is available outside the US



Thank you. 
I will look into both. Don’t need it yet but good to start looking.


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## Tom

Freedomrider13 said:


> Hey Tom!
> 
> What substrate you use in your nightbox? I’m building a super nice one right now, all insulated ?? Thanks for all your tips!


Box looks great so far.

For a sulcata I use no substrate. I put a thin layer of dirt from the yard in there, and this makes cleanup much easier. That's it.

I scrape out the old dirt, poo, and pee with a flat head shovel and then scrape up some fresh dirt to replace it with.


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## Tom

AgataP said:


> @Tom are the Kane heat mats best thing available?
> For wet/winter time I think I will have Herbie live in a basement when he gets older. Have 3 empty rooms available.


I like the Kane mats and have always used them. They are just one part of a heating strategy for larger sulcatas that are housed outdoors or in large rooms.


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## Freedomrider13

Tom said:


> Box looks great so far.
> 
> For a sulcata I use no substrate. I put a thin layer of dirt from the yard in there, and this makes cleanup much easier. That's it.
> 
> I scrape out the old dirt, poo, and pee with a flat head shovel and then scrape up some fresh dirt to replace it with.


Thank you! Yeah I’m gonna make the roof all water proof too and gonna use the radiant heat panel and heating matt. Should work pretty good I think.
Ok that sounds easy enough, appreciate it!


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## thelifeofbuttons

Tom said:


> No food for water inside the box. The box is to simulate a burrow for them. They eat and drink outside the "burrow".
> 
> Any growing tortoise needs humidity. I put tubs or buckets of water in the night box and humidity is what it is.
> 
> I close doors every night. This keeps them warm, keeps them where I want them, keeps predators out, and reduces electrical usage tremendously. I then open the door every morning.


 Hi @Tom Curious where you place tubs of water in this set up? Do you have a built in shelf that runs across the top, like you do in the CDT house set up I saw on another thread? Thanks!


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## Tom

thelifeofbuttons said:


> Hi @Tom Curious where you place tubs of water in this set up? Do you have a built in shelf that runs across the top, like you do in the CDT house set up I saw on another thread? Thanks!



I do it differently for different boxes and different species. Here is my box for my temperate Chersina.


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## thelifeofbuttons

Tom said:


> I like the Kane mats and have always used them. They are just one part of a heating strategy for larger sulcatas that are housed outdoors or in large rooms.


TGIF @Tom I'm going to be building this exact box this weekend, hoping to get the heated elements ordered today as well... My question is do you have a particular website you order through consistently, or would recommend? I called our local small business pet supply to see if they could order, so I could support them, but they cannot get most of these things, so back to the internet it is... and it seems no one pet supply site seems to carry all the things for one stop ordering, with prices varying so greatly between sites and products. Just didn't know if you had any advice to offer on this. Thanks!


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## vladimir

@thelifeofbuttons Check Reptile Basics for radiant heat panels, although it looks like they might be out of stock at the moment:


VE Radiant Heat Panels



I got my Kane mat from tortoise supply: https://www.tortoisesupply.com/kane - @TylerStewart is a member here.

What other items did you need to order?


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## ambreaux

I would love to build this box @Tom . This might be asking a lot but, is there a "recipe" of sorts you could provide? Like a list of how much wood/materials other than the heating and electrical components that are needed to build this to your specs.


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## vladimir

There are these threads which may have the info you're looking for:






Cost for Building Your Own Outdoor Night Box


I just finished building another new box for my star tortoises, and I built a box for some friends who lost everything in the fires a few months ago. Many people have asked me to build them a box and what it would cost. I thought it might be helpful to list everything out to help people decide...




www.tortoiseforum.org










What You'll Need to Build A Night Box


I just typed up a list of the needed supplies to build a night box and thought I'd copy paste it here: For sulcatas, I make the doors 26x16". This will fit all but the largest of large males for their entire life. If you end up with one of the giants, you will eventually have to make another...




www.tortoiseforum.org


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## Tom

ambreaux said:


> I would love to build this box @Tom . This might be asking a lot but, is there a "recipe" of sorts you could provide? Like a list of how much wood/materials other than the heating and electrical components that are needed to build this to your specs.


Look at the ones from Vladimir, and these too:





Here is the 4x8 rendering of Tom's Night Box. With Exploded view.


This is a rendering I did based off of @Tom 's heated night box enclosure. Its probably not a 100% accurate. Door is offset to one side for my personal needs but can easily be moved. Let me know if you see any issues with it. Feed back appreciated. High res renderings can be downloaded here...




tortoiseforum.org










Double Door Night Box


As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...




tortoiseforum.org


----------



## thelifeofbuttons

vladimir said:


> @thelifeofbuttons Check Reptile Basics for radiant heat panels, although it looks like they might be out of stock at the moment:
> 
> 
> VE Radiant Heat Panels
> 
> 
> 
> I got my Kane mat from tortoise supply: https://www.tortoisesupply.com/kane - @TylerStewart is a member here.
> 
> What other items did you need to order?


Okay, thank you! I have one in my cart on that site already. I'm looking to purchase the Kane mat, the radiant heating panel, and the 1000w thermostat...basically everything Tom has listed in this post for heating. I'm starting from scratch, as I'm currently bringing the dude inside every night.


----------



## thelifeofbuttons

Tom said:


> I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll need something else for the dead of winter. Or you can move South!
> 
> The top of this box is half a sheet of plywood, insulated and sealed, so 4x4 feet. The inside of the box ends up being around 40x40 inches when its all done. I use an 18x28 inch Kane heat mat on the floor, and a 21" radiant heat panel on the top. Both are controlled by the same thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller
> I lower the RHP so that it is within 6-8 inches of the tortoises carapace that lives in the box. I like to screw a plastic shoe box to the back of the box to contain all the extra wires and thermostat. Weather strip seals the top where the hinged lid meets it, and I use plastic freezer stripping across the door to hold in heat when the door is open. The door drops down like a drawbridge and makes a ramp fro the tortoise to get in and out easier. I latch the door shut every night and open the door every morning.
> 
> In summer our daytime highs are usually right around 100, with night time lows around 65. I unplug the boxes during this time and temps stay between 70 and 90 in them. In Fall, we have warm sunny days usually into December, so I set the thermostat to 80. As soon as the weather turns cold in winter, I bump the thermostat up to 86, so they always have an area to get warmer in on a cold rainy day here. Spring time brings back warmer sunny days, so I lower the box temp back down to 80. This routine works great for any tropical species like Stars, radiata, sulcatas and leopards.
> 
> Here is the box during construction. I frame the plywood walls with 2x4s and use 1.5" rigid foam as insulation. Then I seal it with silicone caulking and cover the walls with plywood inside.
> View attachment 291639
> 
> 
> Here is all the electrical stuff going into it:
> View attachment 291640
> 
> 
> View attachment 291641
> 
> 
> Here I want to show the weather stripping in place, and the drip loop. The drip loop is simply draping the cord down a bit so that when it rains, the water drips down the cord to the ground instead of following the cord downhill right into the box.
> View attachment 291642
> 
> 
> Ready to keep a tortoise warm and safe at night:
> View attachment 291643
> 
> 
> This is a great way to house a large leopard or sulcata in a relatively warm climate. We get cold winter nights in the 20s and this box, built and heated this way, keeps them in the 80s. Because my climate is so dry, I usually add a 5 gallon bucket or some tubs of water to generate some ambient humidity inside the box. People in the South East US wouldn't need to do this.
> 
> Questions and conversation are welcome!
> 
> For larger tortoises, multiple tortoises, and a different heating strategy, see this thread:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double Door Night Box
> 
> 
> As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tortoiseforum.org


Hi @Tom oe anyone else who can help me answer this question...
I'm getting the heating elements installed on my Sulcata House, but I'm a bit of an over thinker. I have the same heating elements exactly that you list here, however, I could only find a 500W temp controller. Apparently, Zilla is not making a 1000W one anymore. It seems as though with just the two heating elements, 500W should be sufficient, BUT, there is only one outlet on the controller. Obviously, I'll nee two, but hesitant to jerry-rig a send plug, as I don't want to over load the system. Has anyone come across this impasse? Do I upgrade to a different temp controller, or can I use a short extension cord into the one outlet on the temp. controller? I can't find anywhere on the instructions where it says to not plug more than one heating element. Advice, please and thank you!


----------



## vladimir

thelifeofbuttons said:


> Hi @Tom oe anyone else who can help me answer this question...
> I'm getting the heating elements installed on my Sulcata House, but I'm a bit of an over thinker. I have the same heating elements exactly that you list here, however, I could only find a 500W temp controller. Apparently, Zilla is not making a 1000W one anymore. It seems as though with just the two heating elements, 500W should be sufficient, BUT, there is only one outlet on the controller. Obviously, I'll nee two, but hesitant to jerry-rig a send plug, as I don't want to over load the system. Has anyone come across this impasse? Do I upgrade to a different temp controller, or can I use a short extension cord into the one outlet on the temp. controller? I can't find anywhere on the instructions where it says to not plug more than one heating element. Advice, please and thank you!



I have several of these in use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01486LZ50/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

They have two outlets and support up to 1200w total. 

They also have a nice LCD display which makes it easy to check the temps at a glance.


----------



## Tom

thelifeofbuttons said:


> Hi @Tom oe anyone else who can help me answer this question...
> I'm getting the heating elements installed on my Sulcata House, but I'm a bit of an over thinker. I have the same heating elements exactly that you list here, however, I could only find a 500W temp controller. Apparently, Zilla is not making a 1000W one anymore. It seems as though with just the two heating elements, 500W should be sufficient, BUT, there is only one outlet on the controller. Obviously, I'll nee two, but hesitant to jerry-rig a send plug, as I don't want to over load the system. Has anyone come across this impasse? Do I upgrade to a different temp controller, or can I use a short extension cord into the one outlet on the temp. controller? I can't find anywhere on the instructions where it says to not plug more than one heating element. Advice, please and thank you!


Buy a different thermostat. There are lots of them available.


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## thelifeofbuttons

vladimir said:


> I have several of these in use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01486LZ50/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
> 
> They have two outlets and support up to 1200w total.
> 
> They also have a nice LCD display which makes it easy to check the temps at a glance.


@vladimir @Tom Thank you! I ordered a new one. Thank goodness for one day delivery!


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## Tom

thelifeofbuttons said:


> @vladimir @Tom Thank you! I ordered a new one. Thank goodness for one day delivery!


I keep at least two extras of everything on hand, just for that reason. Things have a way of burning out or failing at the worst possible times.


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## Gwenamy

Tom said:


> I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll need something else for the dead of winter. Or you can move South!
> 
> The top of this box is half a sheet of plywood, insulated and sealed, so 4x4 feet. The inside of the box ends up being around 40x40 inches when its all done. I use an 18x28 inch Kane heat mat on the floor, and a 21" radiant heat panel on the top. Both are controlled by the same thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller
> I lower the RHP so that it is within 6-8 inches of the tortoises carapace that lives in the box. I like to screw a plastic shoe box to the back of the box to contain all the extra wires and thermostat. Weather strip seals the top where the hinged lid meets it, and I use plastic freezer stripping across the door to hold in heat when the door is open. The door drops down like a drawbridge and makes a ramp fro the tortoise to get in and out easier. I latch the door shut every night and open the door every morning.
> 
> In summer our daytime highs are usually right around 100, with night time lows around 65. I unplug the boxes during this time and temps stay between 70 and 90 in them. In Fall, we have warm sunny days usually into December, so I set the thermostat to 80. As soon as the weather turns cold in winter, I bump the thermostat up to 86, so they always have an area to get warmer in on a cold rainy day here. Spring time brings back warmer sunny days, so I lower the box temp back down to 80. This routine works great for any tropical species like Stars, radiata, sulcatas and leopards.
> 
> Here is the box during construction. I frame the plywood walls with 2x4s and use 1.5" rigid foam as insulation. Then I seal it with silicone caulking and cover the walls with plywood inside.
> View attachment 291639
> 
> 
> Here is all the electrical stuff going into it:
> View attachment 291640
> 
> 
> View attachment 291641
> 
> 
> Here I want to show the weather stripping in place, and the drip loop. The drip loop is simply draping the cord down a bit so that when it rains, the water drips down the cord to the ground instead of following the cord downhill right into the box.
> View attachment 291642
> 
> 
> Ready to keep a tortoise warm and safe at night:
> View attachment 291643
> 
> 
> This is a great way to house a large leopard or sulcata in a relatively warm climate. We get cold winter nights in the 20s and this box, built and heated this way, keeps them in the 80s. Because my climate is so dry, I usually add a 5 gallon bucket or some tubs of water to generate some ambient humidity inside the box. People in the South East US wouldn't need to do this.
> 
> Questions and conversation are welcome!
> 
> For larger tortoises, multiple tortoises, and a different heating strategy, see this thread:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double Door Night Box
> 
> 
> As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tortoiseforum.org


Hi Tom
the link for the thermostat doesn't work. can you please post the brand name so I know I'm getting the right thing? THank you


----------



## Tom

Gwenamy said:


> Hi Tom
> the link for the thermostat doesn't work. can you please post the brand name so I know I'm getting the right thing? THank you


There are many now and the brand names keep changing. Inkbird is one. You just need a 1000 watt thermostat. Here is a basic one I found with an internet search:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FKG4CC/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20


----------



## vladimir

Tom said:


> There are many now and the brand names keep changing. Inkbird is one. You just need a 1000 watt thermostat. Here is a basic one I found with an internet search:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015FKG4CC/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20



I have a few of those and can vouch for them.


----------



## TaylorTortoise

Tom said:


> I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll need something else for the dead of winter. Or you can move South!
> 
> The top of this box is half a sheet of plywood, insulated and sealed, so 4x4 feet. The inside of the box ends up being around 40x40 inches when its all done. I use an 18x28 inch Kane heat mat on the floor, and a 21" radiant heat panel on the top. Both are controlled by the same thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller
> I lower the RHP so that it is within 6-8 inches of the tortoises carapace that lives in the box. I like to screw a plastic shoe box to the back of the box to contain all the extra wires and thermostat. Weather strip seals the top where the hinged lid meets it, and I use plastic freezer stripping across the door to hold in heat when the door is open. The door drops down like a drawbridge and makes a ramp fro the tortoise to get in and out easier. I latch the door shut every night and open the door every morning.
> 
> In summer our daytime highs are usually right around 100, with night time lows around 65. I unplug the boxes during this time and temps stay between 70 and 90 in them. In Fall, we have warm sunny days usually into December, so I set the thermostat to 80. As soon as the weather turns cold in winter, I bump the thermostat up to 86, so they always have an area to get warmer in on a cold rainy day here. Spring time brings back warmer sunny days, so I lower the box temp back down to 80. This routine works great for any tropical species like Stars, radiata, sulcatas and leopards.
> 
> Here is the box during construction. I frame the plywood walls with 2x4s and use 1.5" rigid foam as insulation. Then I seal it with silicone caulking and cover the walls with plywood inside.
> View attachment 291639
> 
> 
> Here is all the electrical stuff going into it:
> View attachment 291640
> 
> 
> View attachment 291641
> 
> 
> Here I want to show the weather stripping in place, and the drip loop. The drip loop is simply draping the cord down a bit so that when it rains, the water drips down the cord to the ground instead of following the cord downhill right into the box.
> View attachment 291642
> 
> 
> Ready to keep a tortoise warm and safe at night:
> View attachment 291643
> 
> 
> This is a great way to house a large leopard or sulcata in a relatively warm climate. We get cold winter nights in the 20s and this box, built and heated this way, keeps them in the 80s. Because my climate is so dry, I usually add a 5 gallon bucket or some tubs of water to generate some ambient humidity inside the box. People in the South East US wouldn't need to do this.
> 
> Questions and conversation are welcome!
> 
> For larger tortoises, multiple tortoises, and a different heating strategy, see this thread:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double Door Night Box
> 
> 
> As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tortoiseforum.org


Tom what if the plastic box doesn’t seal 100% effectively and causes a fire or is dangerous for the tortoise to get electrified by rain storms and wear and tear from weather?


----------



## Tom

Taylorlynn48 said:


> Tom what if the plastic box doesn’t seal 100% effectively and causes a fire or is dangerous for the tortoise to get electrified by rain storms and wear and tear from weather?


What plastic box are you referring to? The one inside the night box? No water gets inside the box. The over hang on the lid prevents it.


----------



## Turtlesmama

Tom said:


> I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll need something else for the dead of winter. Or you can move South!
> 
> The top of this box is half a sheet of plywood, insulated and sealed, so 4x4 feet. The inside of the box ends up being around 40x40 inches when its all done. I use an 18x28 inch Kane heat mat on the floor, and a 21" radiant heat panel on the top. Both are controlled by the same thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller
> I lower the RHP so that it is within 6-8 inches of the tortoises carapace that lives in the box. I like to screw a plastic shoe box to the back of the box to contain all the extra wires and thermostat. Weather strip seals the top where the hinged lid meets it, and I use plastic freezer stripping across the door to hold in heat when the door is open. The door drops down like a drawbridge and makes a ramp fro the tortoise to get in and out easier. I latch the door shut every night and open the door every morning.
> 
> In summer our daytime highs are usually right around 100, with night time lows around 65. I unplug the boxes during this time and temps stay between 70 and 90 in them. In Fall, we have warm sunny days usually into December, so I set the thermostat to 80. As soon as the weather turns cold in winter, I bump the thermostat up to 86, so they always have an area to get warmer in on a cold rainy day here. Spring time brings back warmer sunny days, so I lower the box temp back down to 80. This routine works great for any tropical species like Stars, radiata, sulcatas and leopards.
> 
> Here is the box during construction. I frame the plywood walls with 2x4s and use 1.5" rigid foam as insulation. Then I seal it with silicone caulking and cover the walls with plywood inside.
> View attachment 291639
> 
> 
> Here is all the electrical stuff going into it:
> View attachment 291640
> 
> 
> View attachment 291641
> 
> 
> Here I want to show the weather stripping in place, and the drip loop. The drip loop is simply draping the cord down a bit so that when it rains, the water drips down the cord to the ground instead of following the cord downhill right into the box.
> View attachment 291642
> 
> 
> Ready to keep a tortoise warm and safe at night:
> View attachment 291643
> 
> 
> This is a great way to house a large leopard or sulcata in a relatively warm climate. We get cold winter nights in the 20s and this box, built and heated this way, keeps them in the 80s. Because my climate is so dry, I usually add a 5 gallon bucket or some tubs of water to generate some ambient humidity inside the box. People in the South East US wouldn't need to do this.
> 
> Questions and conversation are welcome!
> 
> For larger tortoises, multiple tortoises, and a different heating strategy, see this thread:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double Door Night Box
> 
> 
> As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tortoiseforum.org


----------



## Turtlesmama

TaylorTortoise said:


> Tom what if the plastic box doesn’t seal 100% effectively and causes a fire or is dangerous for the tortoise to get electrified by rain storms and wear and tear from weather?


I live in Arizona, so most of the year mine can be outside. I need a “husband friendly” type of building...lol...there is a wash behind my house and I’m afraid of the coyotes and huge owls. They took my little dog so I’m sure they can take Turtle...his name...lol...suggestions?


----------



## Tom

Turtlesmama said:


> I live in Arizona, so most of the year mine can be outside. I need a “husband friendly” type of building...lol...there is a wash behind my house and I’m afraid of the coyotes and huge owls. They took my little dog so I’m sure they can take Turtle...his name...lol...suggestions?


Not sure what you are asking. The box shown in this thread is about as "husbandry friendly" as it gets, and can be used anywhere.

Are you asking about an enclosure? What size tortoise? What species? How big of a space?


----------



## Unitygraph

Tom said:


> I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll need something else for the dead of winter. Or you can move South!
> 
> The top of this box is half a sheet of plywood, insulated and sealed, so 4x4 feet. The inside of the box ends up being around 40x40 inches when its all done. I use an 18x28 inch Kane heat mat on the floor, and a 21" radiant heat panel on the top. Both are controlled by the same thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller
> I lower the RHP so that it is within 6-8 inches of the tortoises carapace that lives in the box. I like to screw a plastic shoe box to the back of the box to contain all the extra wires and thermostat. Weather strip seals the top where the hinged lid meets it, and I use plastic freezer stripping across the door to hold in heat when the door is open. The door drops down like a drawbridge and makes a ramp fro the tortoise to get in and out easier. I latch the door shut every night and open the door every morning.
> 
> In summer our daytime highs are usually right around 100, with night time lows around 65. I unplug the boxes during this time and temps stay between 70 and 90 in them. In Fall, we have warm sunny days usually into December, so I set the thermostat to 80. As soon as the weather turns cold in winter, I bump the thermostat up to 86, so they always have an area to get warmer in on a cold rainy day here. Spring time brings back warmer sunny days, so I lower the box temp back down to 80. This routine works great for any tropical species like Stars, radiata, sulcatas and leopards.
> 
> Here is the box during construction. I frame the plywood walls with 2x4s and use 1.5" rigid foam as insulation. Then I seal it with silicone caulking and cover the walls with plywood inside.
> View attachment 291639
> 
> 
> Here is all the electrical stuff going into it:
> View attachment 291640
> 
> 
> View attachment 291641
> 
> 
> Here I want to show the weather stripping in place, and the drip loop. The drip loop is simply draping the cord down a bit so that when it rains, the water drips down the cord to the ground instead of following the cord downhill right into the box.
> View attachment 291642
> 
> 
> Ready to keep a tortoise warm and safe at night:
> View attachment 291643
> 
> 
> This is a great way to house a large leopard or sulcata in a relatively warm climate. We get cold winter nights in the 20s and this box, built and heated this way, keeps them in the 80s. Because my climate is so dry, I usually add a 5 gallon bucket or some tubs of water to generate some ambient humidity inside the box. People in the South East US wouldn't need to do this.
> 
> Questions and conversation are welcome!
> 
> For larger tortoises, multiple tortoises, and a different heating strategy, see this thread:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double Door Night Box
> 
> 
> As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tortoiseforum.org


Have a quick question in regards to the top of the tortoise night boxes I’ve been seeing. When it rains, doesn’t the rain water just sit and puddle up on the flat roof top? Wouldn’t the roof top of a tortoise box be better with it being sloped like a roof of a house, so that the rain water just runs down off of the roof top.


----------



## Tolis

Unitygraph said:


> Have a quick question in regards to the top of the tortoise night boxes I’ve been seeing. When it rains, doesn’t the rain water just sit and puddle up on the flat roof top? Wouldn’t the roof top of a tortoise box be better with it being sloped like a roof of a house, so that the rain water just runs down off of the roof top.


It's been asked again, if I recall correctly Tom has not had any issues with his boxes but he does open them regularly so the water does not puddle for a while. I never open mine I used marine ply wood and its fine. You can go ahead and slope yours if you want just make sure it will firmly close so you dont have warm air loss.


----------



## marley2824

Tom said:


> I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll need something else for the dead of winter. Or you can move South!
> 
> The top of this box is half a sheet of plywood, insulated and sealed, so 4x4 feet. The inside of the box ends up being around 40x40 inches when its all done. I use an 18x28 inch Kane heat mat on the floor, and a 21" radiant heat panel on the top. Both are controlled by the same thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller
> I lower the RHP so that it is within 6-8 inches of the tortoises carapace that lives in the box. I like to screw a plastic shoe box to the back of the box to contain all the extra wires and thermostat. Weather strip seals the top where the hinged lid meets it, and I use plastic freezer stripping across the door to hold in heat when the door is open. The door drops down like a drawbridge and makes a ramp fro the tortoise to get in and out easier. I latch the door shut every night and open the door every morning.
> 
> In summer our daytime highs are usually right around 100, with night time lows around 65. I unplug the boxes during this time and temps stay between 70 and 90 in them. In Fall, we have warm sunny days usually into December, so I set the thermostat to 80. As soon as the weather turns cold in winter, I bump the thermostat up to 86, so they always have an area to get warmer in on a cold rainy day here. Spring time brings back warmer sunny days, so I lower the box temp back down to 80. This routine works great for any tropical species like Stars, radiata, sulcatas and leopards.
> 
> Here is the box during construction. I frame the plywood walls with 2x4s and use 1.5" rigid foam as insulation. Then I seal it with silicone caulking and cover the walls with plywood inside.
> View attachment 291639
> 
> 
> Here is all the electrical stuff going into it:
> View attachment 291640
> 
> 
> View attachment 291641
> 
> 
> Here I want to show the weather stripping in place, and the drip loop. The drip loop is simply draping the cord down a bit so that when it rains, the water drips down the cord to the ground instead of following the cord downhill right into the box.
> View attachment 291642
> 
> 
> Ready to keep a tortoise warm and safe at night:
> View attachment 291643
> 
> 
> This is a great way to house a large leopard or sulcata in a relatively warm climate. We get cold winter nights in the 20s and this box, built and heated this way, keeps them in the 80s. Because my climate is so dry, I usually add a 5 gallon bucket or some tubs of water to generate some ambient humidity inside the box. People in the South East US wouldn't need to do this.
> 
> Questions and conversation are welcome!
> 
> For larger tortoises, multiple tortoises, and a different heating strategy, see this thread:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double Door Night Box
> 
> 
> As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tortoiseforum.org


where do you put the probe of the temperature controller?


----------



## Tom

marley2824 said:


> where do you put the probe of the temperature controller?


Far from all the heat sources and as low as you can while keeping it out of reach of the tortoises.


----------



## marley2824

Tom said:


> Far from all the heat sources and as low as you can while keeping it out of reach of the tortoises.


thanks for quick reply


----------



## NovasArk

Hi All! Question regarding heating the nightboxes. 
We had originally planned on making only the 4x4 nightbox for our 3 yr old sully, but hubby wants to build the 4x8. 
Will the 18x28 Kane mat and 80 watt RHP be enough to heat the 4x8? 
We considered putting in a removable divider with a doorway, to heat half, but still provide room for summer months.
We are located in southern AZ @ 4000 ft, so I don't want to overbuild for the heating elements I've already purchased.


----------



## Tom

NovasArk said:


> Hi All! Question regarding heating the nightboxes.
> We had originally planned on making only the 4x4 nightbox for our 3 yr old sully, but hubby wants to build the 4x8.
> Will the 18x28 Kane mat and 80 watt RHP be enough to heat the 4x8?
> We considered putting in a removable divider with a doorway, to heat half, but still provide room for summer months.
> We are located in southern AZ @ 4000 ft, so I don't want to overbuild for the heating elements I've already purchased.


I've never tried that, and don't know of anyone who has ever tried that, so the honest answer is; I don't know. Your nights don't get as cold as most of the rest of the country most of the winter, so it might work for you in your area. Only your thermometer can answer that. It wouldn't be a bad idea to put in one more RHP just for insurance on the rare cold nights in the 30s. For most of every year, I think what you have will work, but I'm just guessing. Watch your thermometer and adjust as needed.


----------



## NovasArk

Awesome - thanks so much!


----------



## Cleopatra 2020

Connie Jo said:


> I have a Inkbird TCL & can’t figure out how to set the temp for the heater. Any suggestions


I believe I have one of those and I can walk you through the steps can you send a picture?


----------



## Connie Jo

Cleopatra 2020 said:


> I believe I have one of those and I can walk you through the steps can you send a picture?


Thank you, but have figured it out. Sorry for the delay in answering. With pandemic have not been on for a long time


----------



## Cleopatra 2020

Toddrickfl1 said:


> 2x2 didn't leave very much space inside. I ended up going 4x2
> View attachment 295187


How did that work out for the specifications and equipment used?


----------



## Pac-Man

Tom said:


> I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll need something else for the dead of winter. Or you can move South!
> 
> The top of this box is half a sheet of plywood, insulated and sealed, so 4x4 feet. The inside of the box ends up being around 40x40 inches when its all done. I use an 18x28 inch Kane heat mat on the floor, and a 21" radiant heat panel on the top. Both are controlled by the same thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller
> I lower the RHP so that it is within 6-8 inches of the tortoises carapace that lives in the box. I like to screw a plastic shoe box to the back of the box to contain all the extra wires and thermostat. Weather strip seals the top where the hinged lid meets it, and I use plastic freezer stripping across the door to hold in heat when the door is open. The door drops down like a drawbridge and makes a ramp fro the tortoise to get in and out easier. I latch the door shut every night and open the door every morning.
> 
> In summer our daytime highs are usually right around 100, with night time lows around 65. I unplug the boxes during this time and temps stay between 70 and 90 in them. In Fall, we have warm sunny days usually into December, so I set the thermostat to 80. As soon as the weather turns cold in winter, I bump the thermostat up to 86, so they always have an area to get warmer in on a cold rainy day here. Spring time brings back warmer sunny days, so I lower the box temp back down to 80. This routine works great for any tropical species like Stars, radiata, sulcatas and leopards.
> 
> Here is the box during construction. I frame the plywood walls with 2x4s and use 1.5" rigid foam as insulation. Then I seal it with silicone caulking and cover the walls with plywood inside.
> View attachment 291639
> 
> 
> Here is all the electrical stuff going into it:
> View attachment 291640
> 
> 
> View attachment 291641
> 
> 
> Here I want to show the weather stripping in place, and the drip loop. The drip loop is simply draping the cord down a bit so that when it rains, the water drips down the cord to the ground instead of following the cord downhill right into the box.
> View attachment 291642
> 
> 
> Ready to keep a tortoise warm and safe at night:
> View attachment 291643
> 
> 
> This is a great way to house a large leopard or sulcata in a relatively warm climate. We get cold winter nights in the 20s and this box, built and heated this way, keeps them in the 80s. Because my climate is so dry, I usually add a 5 gallon bucket or some tubs of water to generate some ambient humidity inside the box. People in the South East US wouldn't need to do this.
> 
> Questions and conversation are welcome!
> 
> For larger tortoises, multiple tortoises, and a different heating strategy, see this thread:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double Door Night Box
> 
> 
> As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tortoiseforum.org


How much did this box cost with everything you've installed


----------



## Tom

Pac-Man said:


> How much did this box cost with everything you've installed


Around $400.


----------



## Wpagey

Tom said:


> I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll need something else for the dead of winter. Or you can move South!
> 
> The top of this box is half a sheet of plywood, insulated and sealed, so 4x4 feet. The inside of the box ends up being around 40x40 inches when its all done. I use an 18x28 inch Kane heat mat on the floor, and a 21" radiant heat panel on the top. Both are controlled by the same thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller
> I lower the RHP so that it is within 6-8 inches of the tortoises carapace that lives in the box. I like to screw a plastic shoe box to the back of the box to contain all the extra wires and thermostat. Weather strip seals the top where the hinged lid meets it, and I use plastic freezer stripping across the door to hold in heat when the door is open. The door drops down like a drawbridge and makes a ramp fro the tortoise to get in and out easier. I latch the door shut every night and open the door every morning.
> 
> In summer our daytime highs are usually right around 100, with night time lows around 65. I unplug the boxes during this time and temps stay between 70 and 90 in them. In Fall, we have warm sunny days usually into December, so I set the thermostat to 80. As soon as the weather turns cold in winter, I bump the thermostat up to 86, so they always have an area to get warmer in on a cold rainy day here. Spring time brings back warmer sunny days, so I lower the box temp back down to 80. This routine works great for any tropical species like Stars, radiata, sulcatas and leopards.
> 
> Here is the box during construction. I frame the plywood walls with 2x4s and use 1.5" rigid foam as insulation. Then I seal it with silicone caulking and cover the walls with plywood inside.
> View attachment 291639
> 
> 
> Here is all the electrical stuff going into it:
> View attachment 291640
> 
> 
> View attachment 291641
> 
> 
> Here I want to show the weather stripping in place, and the drip loop. The drip loop is simply draping the cord down a bit so that when it rains, the water drips down the cord to the ground instead of following the cord downhill right into the box.
> View attachment 291642
> 
> 
> Ready to keep a tortoise warm and safe at night:
> View attachment 291643
> 
> 
> This is a great way to house a large leopard or sulcata in a relatively warm climate. We get cold winter nights in the 20s and this box, built and heated this way, keeps them in the 80s. Because my climate is so dry, I usually add a 5 gallon bucket or some tubs of water to generate some ambient humidity inside the box. People in the South East US wouldn't need to do this.
> 
> Questions and conversation are welcome!
> 
> For larger tortoises, multiple tortoises, and a different heating strategy, see this thread:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double Door Night Box
> 
> 
> As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tortoiseforum.org


How big is the opening of that single tort nightbox? Thanks for sharing these pics, my box is being modeled after this for our single 11yr old sulcata, and I don’t want to be widening it in 10 years!


----------



## Tom

Wpagey said:


> How big is the opening of that single tort nightbox? Thanks for sharing these pics, my box is being modeled after this for our single 11yr old sulcata, and I don’t want to be widening it in 10 years!


For an adult sulcata, I make the door 16 inches tall and 26 inches wide. This will accommodate all except the super huge Sudan males.


----------



## Wpagey

Still working on progress…


----------



## billiondollars

@Tom 

Do you put any substrate in the night-box itself?


----------



## Tom

billiondollars said:


> @Tom
> 
> Do you put any substrate in the night-box itself?


For sulcatas I put down a layer of dry dirt to make clean up easier. For some species I make the boxes waterproof with Pond Shield and use damp orchid bark substrate.


----------



## billiondollars

Tom said:


> For sulcatas I put down a layer of dry dirt to make clean up easier. For some species I make the boxes waterproof with Pond Shield and use damp orchid bark substrate.



Thank you!
Would the layer of dry bark work?


----------



## Tom

billiondollars said:


> Thank you!
> Would the layer of dry bark work?


Dry bark will break down and become very dusty. There is no point in using it.


----------



## Violanna

So hubby and I already have all the materials we need except the insulation and caulk. But we were wondering if we should start with a smaller opening since our Sully is only 6lbs right now, and cut it out larger as he grows? Obviously keeping the door/ramp itself and the freezer sheets still at the correct size? Or just go with the larger doorway right away?

Also thanks to whoever linked the kane mats on tort supply! They are 1/3 of the price of Amazon! I’ve been dreading the cost and now I’m not!


----------



## billiondollars

Violanna said:


> So hubby and I already have all the materials we need except the insulation and caulk. But we were wondering if we should start with a smaller opening since our Sully is only 6lbs right now, and cut it out larger as he grows? Obviously keeping the door/ramp itself and the freezer sheets still at the correct size? Or just go with the larger doorway right away?
> 
> Also thanks to whoever linked the kane mats on tort supply! They are 1/3 of the price of Amazon! I’ve been dreading the cost and now I’m not!



That’s what I did - a smaller door now with an option to cut it larger later.


----------



## Violanna

billiondollars said:


> That’s what I did - a smaller door now with an option to cut it larger later.


Yeah I just feel like that will cut down on my electric usage!


----------



## Tom

Violanna said:


> So hubby and I already have all the materials we need except the insulation and caulk. But we were wondering if we should start with a smaller opening since our Sully is only 6lbs right now, and cut it out larger as he grows? Obviously keeping the door/ramp itself and the freezer sheets still at the correct size? Or just go with the larger doorway right away?
> 
> Also thanks to whoever linked the kane mats on tort supply! They are 1/3 of the price of Amazon! I’ve been dreading the cost and now I’m not!


Build the door the full 26x16 inches. This way you are all set for later as the tortoise grows and the box is framed correctly and structurally sound. Then simply cut out a rectangle of plywood a little larger than your door that will be screwed in and cover the whole door entry way. Then cut a rectangle out of your fitted plywood piece just a little bit larger than your tortoise. As the tortoise grows, you can periodically remove that plywood piece and keep cutting ever larger openings until the tortoise is finally large enough to just need the whole larger door. Works like a charm and it is MUCH easier than trying to enlarge the door hole on a previously built box.

Now... Ask me how I know all this...


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## CleoTheLeo

I built a heated night box based on your plans with the same heat mats and everything. I have my thermostat mounted on the cool side a couple inches above the ground and it is usually around 75-78 at the coldest points of the night. The weather now its starting to get down into the low 50s and 40s. Is this alright for her cool side? I don't know why I'm having such a hard time keeping the cool side at least 80. Thanks for your help.


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## Tom

CleoTheLeo said:


> I built a heated night box based on your plans with the same heat mats and everything. I have my thermostat mounted on the cool side a couple inches above the ground and it is usually around 75-78 at the coldest points of the night. The weather now its starting to get down into the low 50s and 40s. Is this alright for her cool side? I don't know why I'm having such a hard time keeping the cool side at least 80. Thanks for your help.


What is the thermostat set to? Do you mean the remote probe for the thermostat is on the cool side near the ground? What is the temperature on the warm side and elsewhere?


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## CleoTheLeo

Tom said:


> What is the thermostat set to? Do you mean the remote probe for the thermostat is on the cool side near the ground? What is the temperature on the warm side and elsewhere?


It’s set really high in the 100s. And yes that’s what I mean. I also have a little temperature measurer in the same place that sends the temps to my phone. I don’t have anything measuring the temperature on the warm side by the heaters yet.


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## Tom

CleoTheLeo said:


> It’s set really high in the 100s. And yes that’s what I mean. I also have a little temperature measurer in the same place that sends the temps to my phone. I don’t have anything measuring the temperature on the warm side by the heaters yet.


The next question is: If the thermostat is set that high and the temp is that low, then are the heat sources constantly on? They should be in this circumstance. If this is the case, then everything is functioning correctly, and you need more heat. What heat sources are you currently using and what wattage?


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## CleoTheLeo

Tom said:


> The next question is: If the thermostat is set that high and the temp is that low, then are the heat sources constantly on? They should be in this circumstance. If this is the case, then everything is functioning correctly, and you need more heat. What heat sources are you currently using and what wattage?


I'm using the same heaters you mentioned in this post. The 18x28 inch Kane heat mat on the floor, and a 21" radiant heat panel 6-8 inches above the top of her shell. Theyre plugged into the same thermostat and I think they are constantly on. When I take her out in the morning, she is always on the cool side tho. I don't know if maybe my wifi temperature reader is just off a couple degrees or something. And I did insulate her house with the 1.5 inch insulation in all the walls, roof, floor but there are a few gaps like an inch or two without it within the walls where the insulation isnt flush against the interior framing. I dont know if that would cause problems. Maybe I just need to buy new heat mats, I've only had them maybe 3-4 years.


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## Tom

CleoTheLeo said:


> I'm using the same heaters you mentioned in this post. The 18x28 inch Kane heat mat on the floor, and a 21" radiant heat panel 6-8 inches above the top of her shell. Theyre plugged into the same thermostat and I think they are constantly on. When I take her out in the morning, she is always on the cool side tho. I don't know if maybe my wifi temperature reader is just off a couple degrees or something. And I did insulate her house with the 1.5 inch insulation in all the walls, roof, floor but there are a few gaps like an inch or two without it within the walls where the insulation isnt flush against the interior framing. I dont know if that would cause problems. Maybe I just need to buy new heat mats, I've only had them maybe 3-4 years.


Did you caulk and seal each seam as you went along? Do you have door flaps? Is there weather stripping along the top where the lid sets down?

Your heat seems to be escaping somewhere. If we can stop that, it should all work better. If not, adding another RHP will help.


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## CleoTheLeo

Tom said:


> Did you caulk and seal each seam as you went along? Do you have door flaps? Is there weather stripping along the top where the lid sets down?
> 
> Your heat seems to be escaping somewhere. If we can stop that, it should all work better. If not, adding another RHP will help.


Yes, I caulked and sealed each seam. I dont have door flaps, but I wouldnt think that would affect the temperature throughout the night. Im planning on adding them on soon, I also dont have the weather stripping along the top, I'm planning on adding that soon too. Hopefully those two things will help, thanks for your help!


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## Tom

CleoTheLeo said:


> Yes, I caulked and sealed each seam. I dont have door flaps, but I wouldnt think that would affect the temperature throughout the night. Im planning on adding them on soon, I also dont have the weather stripping along the top, I'm planning on adding that soon too. Hopefully those two things will help, thanks for your help!


The flaps make a surprising difference, and the weather stripping is essential for this to work.

Keep us posted on whether or not these seemingly minor details fix the problem. I think they will.


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## Sagewomyn

Tom said:


> I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll need something else for the dead of winter. Or you can move South!
> 
> The top of this box is half a sheet of plywood, insulated and sealed, so 4x4 feet. The inside of the box ends up being around 40x40 inches when its all done. I use an 18x28 inch Kane heat mat on the floor, and a 21" radiant heat panel on the top. Both are controlled by the same thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller
> I lower the RHP so that it is within 6-8 inches of the tortoises carapace that lives in the box. I like to screw a plastic shoe box to the back of the box to contain all the extra wires and thermostat. Weather strip seals the top where the hinged lid meets it, and I use plastic freezer stripping across the door to hold in heat when the door is open. The door drops down like a drawbridge and makes a ramp fro the tortoise to get in and out easier. I latch the door shut every night and open the door every morning.
> 
> In summer our daytime highs are usually right around 100, with night time lows around 65. I unplug the boxes during this time and temps stay between 70 and 90 in them. In Fall, we have warm sunny days usually into December, so I set the thermostat to 80. As soon as the weather turns cold in winter, I bump the thermostat up to 86, so they always have an area to get warmer in on a cold rainy day here. Spring time brings back warmer sunny days, so I lower the box temp back down to 80. This routine works great for any tropical species like Stars, radiata, sulcatas and leopards.
> 
> Here is the box during construction. I frame the plywood walls with 2x4s and use 1.5" rigid foam as insulation. Then I seal it with silicone caulking and cover the walls with plywood inside.
> View attachment 291639
> 
> 
> Here is all the electrical stuff going into it:
> View attachment 291640
> 
> 
> View attachment 291641
> 
> 
> Here I want to show the weather stripping in place, and the drip loop. The drip loop is simply draping the cord down a bit so that when it rains, the water drips down the cord to the ground instead of following the cord downhill right into the box.
> View attachment 291642
> 
> 
> Ready to keep a tortoise warm and safe at night:
> View attachment 291643
> 
> 
> This is a great way to house a large leopard or sulcata in a relatively warm climate. We get cold winter nights in the 20s and this box, built and heated this way, keeps them in the 80s. Because my climate is so dry, I usually add a 5 gallon bucket or some tubs of water to generate some ambient humidity inside the box. People in the South East US wouldn't need to do this.
> 
> Questions and conversation are welcome!
> 
> For larger tortoises, multiple tortoises, and a different heating strategy, see this thread:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double Door Night Box
> 
> 
> As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tortoiseforum.org


Looks great. I have to get this done asap. 
Thank you so much and I might ask more questions now and then if you don't mind.


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## Tom

Sagewomyn said:


> Looks great. I have to get this done asap.
> Thank you so much and I might ask more questions now and then if you don't mind.


Yes please. That's why we are here!


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## Sagewomyn

Tom said:


> I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll need something else for the dead of winter. Or you can move South!
> 
> The top of this box is half a sheet of plywood, insulated and sealed, so 4x4 feet. The inside of the box ends up being around 40x40 inches when its all done. I use an 18x28 inch Kane heat mat on the floor, and a 21" radiant heat panel on the top. Both are controlled by the same thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller
> I lower the RHP so that it is within 6-8 inches of the tortoises carapace that lives in the box. I like to screw a plastic shoe box to the back of the box to contain all the extra wires and thermostat. Weather strip seals the top where the hinged lid meets it, and I use plastic freezer stripping across the door to hold in heat when the door is open. The door drops down like a drawbridge and makes a ramp fro the tortoise to get in and out easier. I latch the door shut every night and open the door every morning.
> 
> In summer our daytime highs are usually right around 100, with night time lows around 65. I unplug the boxes during this time and temps stay between 70 and 90 in them. In Fall, we have warm sunny days usually into December, so I set the thermostat to 80. As soon as the weather turns cold in winter, I bump the thermostat up to 86, so they always have an area to get warmer in on a cold rainy day here. Spring time brings back warmer sunny days, so I lower the box temp back down to 80. This routine works great for any tropical species like Stars, radiata, sulcatas and leopards.
> 
> Here is the box during construction. I frame the plywood walls with 2x4s and use 1.5" rigid foam as insulation. Then I seal it with silicone caulking and cover the walls with plywood inside.
> View attachment 291639
> 
> 
> Here is all the electrical stuff going into it:
> View attachment 291640
> 
> 
> View attachment 291641
> 
> 
> Here I want to show the weather stripping in place, and the drip loop. The drip loop is simply draping the cord down a bit so that when it rains, the water drips down the cord to the ground instead of following the cord downhill right into the box.
> View attachment 291642
> 
> 
> Ready to keep a tortoise warm and safe at night:
> View attachment 291643
> 
> 
> This is a great way to house a large leopard or sulcata in a relatively warm climate. We get cold winter nights in the 20s and this box, built and heated this way, keeps them in the 80s. Because my climate is so dry, I usually add a 5 gallon bucket or some tubs of water to generate some ambient humidity inside the box. People in the South East US wouldn't need to do this.
> 
> Questions and conversation are welcome!
> 
> For larger tortoises, multiple tortoises, and a different heating strategy, see this thread:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Double Door Night Box
> 
> 
> As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tortoiseforum.org


Tom, 
Do they continue to go outside to eat even when the temperature 🌡 drops into the 20's?
Shannon


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## jeannettep

CleoTheLeo said:


> Yes, I caulked and sealed each seam. I dont have door flaps, but I wouldnt think that would affect the temperature throughout the night. Im planning on adding them on soon, I also dont have the weather stripping along the top, I'm planning on adding that soon too. Hopefully those two things will help, thanks for your help!


I added a Radiant barrier to help with keeping the heat in. It looks like silver bubble wrap and I put it between the lid & the heat panel and on the bottom, sides, outside. It will cause a problem with using wifi or anything to connect inside. The other thing I found was those survival tarps. Silver on one side and when it gets really cold I would drape & tuck it around the box. I also added a greenhouse that connected to the box. I hung a coop heater inside. The torts loved it! When winter was over, I removed the greenhouse & it looked like a tropical wonderland. The only time I've been able to grow plants! Oh I also added 2 inch foam sheets on all sides, inside & out. So my walls were over 5 inches thick using 1 inch plywood.

Tom is right, gotta find where heat is leaking out. Since our move, when it finally gets a little cooler here the 1st thing I have to do is caulk! Then reconfigure my foam insulation. Set up my solar farm! I currently only have half my tort area on solar & not full winter yet. Ok so idk much about electricity. I just plug it in & if I pop a breaker I take something off. But I've learned a lot on setting up solar for my torts. I'm sure what I have would work better had I not put the panels in at the wrong angle. So goes the when it's cooler to do list...

So yes any little gap can compromise the heat. I found $20 survival tarps awesome. Silver on the inside for winter, Silver on the outside for summer if it get too hot.


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## jeannettep

L


jeannettep said:


> I added a Radiant barrier to help with keeping the heat in. It looks like silver bubble wrap and I put it between the lid & the heat panel and on the bottom, sides, outside. It will cause a problem with using wifi or anything to connect inside. The other thing I found was those survival tarps. Silver on one side and when it gets really cold I would drape & tuck it around the box. I also added a greenhouse that connected to the box. I hung a coop heater inside. The torts loved it! When winter was over, I removed the greenhouse & it looked like a tropical wonderland. The only time I've been able to grow plants! Oh I also added 2 inch foam sheets on all sides, inside & out. So my walls were over 5 inches thick using 1 inch plywood.
> 
> Tom is right, gotta find where heat is leaking out. Since our move, when it finally gets a little cooler here the 1st thing I have to do is caulk! Then reconfigure my foam insulation. Set up my solar farm! I currently only have half my tort area on solar & not full winter yet. Ok so idk much about electricity. I just plug it in & if I pop a breaker I take something off. But I've learned a lot on setting up solar for my torts. I'm sure what I have would work better had I not put the panels in at the wrong angle. So goes the when it's cooler to do list...
> 
> So yes any little gap can compromise the heat. I found $20 survival tarps awesome. Silver on the inside for winter, Silver on the outside for summer if it get too hot.



Let me add the coop heater was a flat Radiant panel & it has to be away from the torts touch. I can put my hand on it & doesn't burn, but I wouldnt trust it & an inkbird or such temp controller is important. They are low in energy consumption. I also had to make do with what I could find cause kanes & the Radiant heat panel everyone talks about I was on the backorder list. Those would be better, but I was in a pinch.


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## Tom

Sagewomyn said:


> Tom,
> Do they continue to go outside to eat even when the temperature 🌡 drops into the 20's?
> Shannon


They might try, but they shouldn't be allowed to.


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## LeoTheWaywardTortoise

I’m sure these are dumb questions, but here they are: My Kane mat has a rheostat. If I plug it into a thermostat along with a RHP, will the thermostat override the rheostat, or do I need to purchase a new heat mat?

Also, if my current mat will work with the thermostat, would I leave the heat mat on at its highest setting?

Thanks in advance for your help and for sharing all your night box designs, @Tom .


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## Tom

LeoTheWaywardTortoise said:


> I’m sure these are dumb questions, but here they are: My Kane mat has a rheostat. If I plug it into a thermostat along with a RHP, will the thermostat override the rheostat, or do I need to purchase a new heat mat?
> 
> Also, if my current mat will work with the thermostat, would I leave the heat mat on at its highest setting?
> 
> Thanks in advance for your help and for sharing all your night box designs, @Tom .


You answered your first question with your second question.

You didn't need the rheostat. You just spent a little more money than you needed to, but that is okay and it will work just fine. I would turn the rheostat most of the way up and then let the thermostat control it. Having the rheostat can actually work as a secondary safety in case your thermostat ever goes bad and sticks on. Your Kane mat also has built-in redundant safeties, so all should be very safe.

Not dumb questions. Not at all.


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## LeoTheWaywardTortoise

Tom said:


> You answered your first question with your second question.
> 
> You didn't need the rheostat. You just spent a little more money than you needed to, but that is okay and it will work just fine. I would turn the rheostat most of the way up and then let the thermostat control it. Having the rheostat can actually work as a secondary safety in case your thermostat ever goes bad and sticks on. Your Kane mat also has built-in redundant safeties, so all should be very safe.
> 
> Not dumb questions. Not at all.


Thanks, Tom. Appreciate the info, and the kind words.


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