# One care sheet, Part II- Short Version



## Madkins007 (Jul 9, 2010)

OK, this version has been chopped until I bled, ripping the very heart from me- but it is just under 2 pages in 10 pt. font, so should make a nice handout.

Thoughts and input?

IMPORTANT: THIS IS NOT MEANT TO BE A CARESHEET YET! It is still being discussed and reviewed.

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BASIC TORTOISE (AND NORTH AMERICAN BOX TURTLE) CARE (Short Version)
By Mark Adkins

Congratulations on buying a tortoise or North American Box Turtle. This brief paper is designed to help you get started right while you learn more about your new pet.

1. HOUSING A TORTOISE
1.a. SIZE/TYPE. The bigger the better- 8 shell lengths by 4 shell lengths, minimum, more for outdoor pens. Outdoor pens should be predator- and escape- proof (tortoises dig and climb!) Plastic storage tubs make good starter indoor homes. 

1.b. HIDES. Provide an assortment of hides. They can include broad-leaved plants, boxes or tubs, flowerpots, etc. A simple 'humid hide' can be made from an upside down plastic tub with a hole in its side and spongy material attached to a wall. Keep the sponge damp and park in a warm area. 

1.c. SUBSTRATE. Here are a few commonly used substrates-
- Teased and dampened long-fibered sphagnum moss, especially for young tortoises.
- Plain cypress or similar mulch.
- 'Bioactive substrates' are an excellent option worth learning about. 

1.d. WATER. The water dish should be big enough to soak in, deep enough to cover about Ã‚Â½ of the shell, and easy to climb out of. Flower pot saucers work well. Wash often and keep filled.

2. THE RIGHT ENVIRONMENT FOR YOUR TORTOISE
2.a. HEATING. Aim for a range of 75-85F. (Up to 90-95F for African Spurred or Sulcata, Leopard, Greek, and Hermann's, and down to 70 for forest tortoises (Hinge-backs, Russians, and American Box Turtles).

Various heat emitting bulbs may be used to heat a habitat- 'ceramic heat emitters', basking bulbs, etc. They should be used per directions and always used with a heat-resistant or ceramic socket. Under-soil or under tank heaters can be used if more heat or humidity is needed, but they must be used carefully and safely.

Use easy to read thermometers in the habitat, and control temps by changing the height or number of heaters, or using a thermostatic control.

2.b. LIGHTING. Use a timer to provide a steady 12 hours of daytime, but do not use so much light that it blinds them, and make sure they have shade. The best bulbs offer UVB lighting are best as it helps tortoises make vitamin D3 in their skin. With any bulb, follow the manufacturers instructions (including recommendations for replacement) and use common sense. Some UVB bulbs can also be used for heating.

2.c. HUMIDITY. All tortoises, especially the young, need some humidity. Aim for a range of about 40% to 70% for most tortoises, lower for the 'warm' species, and 70 T 100% for the 'cool' species. All tortoises should have access to a humid hide, and young tortoises should be misted 2-4 times a day until they drip.

Use easy to read humidity gauges, and adjust humidity by changing the air flow, adding live plants, misting, etc.


3. FEEDING A TORTOISE
Tortoise diets should be nutritionally complete, encourage natural feeding behavior, consistently eaten, and be practical and economical. The 'Weed Diet' is best for most tortoises.

3.a. INGREDIENTS include:
- Common yard plants: most grasses, dandelions, plantain, vetch, thistle, grape leaves, mulberry leaves, etc.
- Edible flowering and decorative plants: violet, rose, pansy, geraniums, daises, zinnias, marigolds, hibiscus, nasturtium, chrysanthemum, fern, fig, Opuntia cacti (pads, fruits, flowers), etc.
- Grocery store: lettuces, greens, dandelion, spinach, kale, cactus pads, and cabbage. Bagged salad mixes with a variety of lettuce colors and shapes are very helpful. (Spinach and light green lettuces, like Iceberg or Romaine, should only be used sparingly as part of a rotation.)
- Feed or Pet Store: alfalfa, Timothy grass, Orchard grass, live wheatgrass (sold for cats, etc.)
- AVOID known dangerous plants, like lily, ivy, yew, foxglove, oak, the common 'Christmas plants', and tobacco.

To help ensure a healthy diet, rotate what is offered as often as possible. To ensure that they get all the minerals and vitamin they need, add a pinch of calcium powder 1 or 2 times a week, and a pinch of multivitamin every 2 weeks.

Avoid commercial diets and chows until you learn more about your pet's needs.

3.b. FRUIT AND MEAT EATERS. Most tortoises should not have fruit or meat, other than a rare snack. The 'forest tortoises' are designed to digest a wider range of foods since their native plants are so low in nutrients. 
- Yellow-foots and Hinge-backs should get about 1/4th of their diet in fruit and about 1/10th in meat, 
- Red-foots should get less fruit and meat, and 
- Box Turtles should get about 1/4th of the diet in meat and 1/10th in fruit.

3.b.i. THINGS TO TRY.
- Fruits: figs, papaya, mango, cactus 'pears', mushrooms and pineapple are best but other fruits A(and vegetables with seeds) are OK in rotation.
- Meats: worms, many kinds of bugs and larvae, young rats or mice (often frozen- warm before using), slugs, snails, cooked chicken or organ meat, oily fish, or a high quality/low fat dog or cat food.
- Avoid: hot peppers and most citrus (an occasional naval orange is OK.) Bananas and grapes should be used less often. Also avoid processed or fatty meats.

3.c. HOW MUCH TO FEED? It is too easy to overfeed a tortoise, which can make them obese or stress their bones and organs. A couple of common feeding tricks include:
- Very small daily meal of good food, possibly with a later feeding of a lower nutrient 'bulky' food like lettuce or plant leaves (still in small amounts.)
- Removing uneaten food after about 15 minutes, again possibly offering a later bulky food.
- Offering larger meals, but less often. An adult tortoise may only be fed a real meal two or three times a week.

Use an easy to clean feeding surface, like slate or tile, plastic 'paper' plates, newspaper 'plates', etc.

FOR MORE INFORMATION
This is only the beginning- there are several great books, websites, and other sources for good information. A couple places to start would include:
- http://www.tortoiseforum.org (who also has a longer version of this article)
- http://www.tortoisetrust.org 
- http://www.austinsturtlepage.com 

...............................
The numbering thing- part of it is a game with myself- can I keep the paragraphs consistent between versions? Part is to help with the editing. The finished version does not need to have them.

Please remember the main goals of this sheet:
- 1 page handout (front and back), that...
- provides the new buyer with basic information while encouraging them to do more research, without...
- saying anything that will hurt a tortoise or make a store not carry it.


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## Madkins007 (Jul 12, 2010)

Huh- not even one miserable comment. All this work for nuttin'?

Maybe it just got overlooked, I'll add this bit and see if I can bump it up some.


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## Tom (Jul 12, 2010)

Here's my input:

1.b. I'd eliminate the broadleaf plants as an option for the newbie that this is intended for. Too many of the commonly available broadleaf plants are toxic and the ones that aren't are covered in toxins from the nursery. Further, I've never been able to keep any live plants in my tortoise enclosures with out them being trampled or eaten. Potting in a tall enough pot is an option, but the average newbie is already going to have such a small enclosure. I wouldn't want them to give up MORE floor space for a potted plant.

1.c. I'd never use long fibered moss as a substrate. As something spongey to hold moisture in a hide box, sure.
1.c.-2. I'd simply list the good ones: Cypress mulch, plain soil, sphagnum moss (the dirt-like kind), orchid bark, coco fiber. If it were my care sheet, I would also put in a note to avoid any type of sand because of possible eye and impaction problems, but I realize that some people disagree with this.
1.c.-3. I'd leave out the "Bio-active Substrate" business. Let's get the newbies up and running at a basic level before we go gettin' all fancy and complicated on them.

1.d. A+, sir. No changes.

2.a. This is too complicated, IMO. I'd do something like this:
Turtles and tortoises need a thermal gradient within their enclosure. They need to be able to warm up or cool down to maintain their body temp where it needs to be. This is best accomplished by having a "cool" side, a "warm" side and a basking SPOT. For most species, an ambient room temp of 70-75 is fine and this will be the temp of your cool side. If you use a basking lamp over the other side with a flood bulb you will have a hot spot directly under it and that whole side of the enclosure will be a bit warmer than the rest. Your basking spot will work the best if you project the bulb straight down onto a flat rock, piece of slate or flagstone, or a ceramic tile. 80-90 degrees is about right for most species on the warm side and a basking spot around 100 works great. For adults and juveniles night temps around 70 are fine and will require no additional heat. Hatchlings and babies should be kept a little warmer at around 75-80 at night. This is best accomplished with colored "night" bulbs, a Ceramic Heating Element, or by warming the whole room a bit. These temps should be checked with at least two types of thermometers.

I'm not entirely happy with my version either, but there's gotta be a way to simplify this all somehow.

3.a. I'd leave out chrysanthemums, ferns and figs. I'd add bermuda grass to the feed store portion. Its the best one IMO.

3.c. I don't agree with most of this. I've never been able to over feed a tortoise. None of mine have ever been obese, or fat at all, and my 12 year old sulcatas are not even 50 lbs. I realize my situation might not be the norm and that mine might get an unusually high amount of exercise, but my fear is that newbies will underfeed following this advice. I think its more of a problem with a new keeper to get enough food into a new tort. I wouldn't worry about them getting too much.

Okay, there you go. Some feedback.


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## Madkins007 (Jul 13, 2010)

Thanks for the point by point! I do not disagree strongly with most of that, but wanted to share my thought processes.

1b. Plants was sort of blended in when I combined longer outdoor and indoor sections. I would love to figure out a way to more strongly encourage outdoor pens, but two pages is very limiting.

1c. Interesting bit about the long-fibered moss. It is a pretty popular option amongst keepers, especially for more humidity-loving species. 

Sand- I can understand where you are coming from, but considering how many tortoises come from sandy habitats, it seems kind of strange to avoid it completely.

The comment about bioactive substrates, then your note about your mix are interesting- add a material for the micro-organisms and you would have a bioactive substrate! You should try it, it is wonderful!

2a. LOL! My version is only 5 sentences long. 

3a. What do you have against those plants? Figs are great! 

3c. I think this is more a function of the ratio of fiber, etc. to calories and carbs in the diet. If everyone fed a diet that was low in calories and carbs and high in fiber, I doubt overfeeding would be a problem, but everyone seems to want to include carrots, peas, apples, bananas, and corn.

Thanks for the feedback!


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## Stephanie Logan (Jul 13, 2010)

Hi Mark,

Sorry I missed this the first time around--I was out of town.

I do like Tom's version of the heat/light guidelines a little better, and I would put CHE in parentheses so folks know that acronym.

I mix the long-fibered sphagnum moss in with my substrate, which is especially helpful in this dry, dry climate I live in.

Maybe make the point that tortoise weeds/plants must be fertilizer and pesticide-free.

Maybe list the common weed-eater species vs the common fruit and meat eater species.

A small grammatical correction would be "which" instead of "who" for the TFO web site reference at the end.

I love it! I'm ready to take it to my local Petsmart and Petco and Taco's vet. In fact, I may write their corporate honchos and ask about having it printed in their offices and distributed to their stores for display. I will point out how helpful, animal-friendly and socially conscious they will be perceived by caring enough about their Chelonian pet offerings to hand out guidelines for customers to offer the best care possible for optimum health and longevity (I'll take some time to word it just right). No down side to that!


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## Maggie Cummings (Jul 13, 2010)

Here's my thoughts...

1.b...substrate...don't tease the substrate it makes it mad then it is hard to walk on

1...d...water dishes... sometimes adding marbles or small rocks helps them to get out and having them in the saucer helps if the animal is on his back, small rocks help him turn back over...I would recommend paint roller trays also

2... a... heating...I think 75 to 85 is too cold for most tortoises. I'd aim for 85 to 95F. Under tank heat mats need a rheostat to control the temperature and they shouldn't be used for small or baby tortoises.

3...a...feeding
feed or pet store...alfalfa should be avoided

3...c... you recommend picking up the old food after 15 minutes, but I have found if I leave it they come back later and eat it. At times they have eaten the food when it is crisp so I only pick up the old food after 24 hours when I am going to feed again.


You are doing an excellent job. I have been sick and in the hospital so I didn't have a computer for a few hours then I was too sick to sit up here...So those are my few and limited thoughts...


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## PeanutbuttER (Jul 16, 2010)

Is there an updated copy of this? I really like that you've been able to cut it short. My opinion is that the shorter it is, the more likely it is that people will read and use it. 

I'd maybe suggest a couple brands of UVB lighting. That was one area that I was really confused when I first got tortoises. There were so many brands and as I researched them I began seeing more and more that most brands really dont provide enough UVB.


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## Madkins007 (Jul 16, 2010)

PeanutbuttER said:


> Is there an updated copy of this? I really like that you've been able to cut it short. My opinion is that the shorter it is, the more likely it is that people will read and use it.
> 
> I'd maybe suggest a couple brands of UVB lighting. That was one area that I was really confused when I first got tortoises. There were so many brands and as I researched them I began seeing more and more that most brands really dont provide enough UVB.



I'd be happy to include more hard data on UVB, but we don't even know a helpful dosage.

On a separate issue, I am reluctant to name brands- they change quickly, ad if you name a brand that store X does not carry, they are unlikely to want to offer the care sheet.


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## Madkins007 (Jul 19, 2010)

How is this for a finished version? Again, I know it is not perfect- trying to fit everything on 2 pages is tough. It is meant to get new keepers started until they learn more.
...................................................................


QUICK GUIDE TO TORTOISE (AND NORTH AMERICAN BOX TURTLE) CARE
By Mark Adkins ([email protected]) (Copyright and revised July 2010)

Congratulations on buying a tortoise or North American box turtle. This brief paper is designed to help you get started right while you learn more about your new pet.

1. HOUSING A TORTOISE
SIZE/TYPE. The bigger the better- 8 shell lengths by 4 shell lengths, minimum, more for outdoor pens. Outdoor pens should be predator- and escape-proof (tortoises dig and climb!) Plastic storage tubs make good starter indoor homes. 

HIDES. Provide an assortment of hides. They can include broad-leaved plants, boxes or tubs, flowerpots, etc. A simple 'humid hide' can be made from an upside down plastic tub with a hole in its side and spongy material attached to a wall. Keep the sponge damp and park in a warm area. 

SUBSTRATE. Here are a few commonly used substrates-
- Teased and dampened long-fibered sphagnum moss, especially for young tortoises.
- Plain cypress or similar mulch.
- A naturalistic mix of clean topsoil, sand, clean mulches or moss and a little untreated soil from a garden, with a layer of material in the bottom for drainage. Keep the bottom level damp. Worms and isopods (Roly-poly bugs) help.

WATER. The water dish should be big enough to soak in, deep enough to cover about Ã‚Â½ of the shell, and easy to climb out of- like flower pot saucers. Keep clean.

2. THE RIGHT ENVIRONMENT FOR YOUR TORTOISE
HEATING. Aim for a range of about 75-85F. It can go up to 90-95F for African Spurred or Sulcata, Leopard, Greek, and Hermann's, and down to 70 for Red-foots, Hinge-backs, Russians, and American Box Turtles).

Various heating systems may be used- 'ceramic heat emitters', basking bulbs, sun lamps,etc. They should be used per directions and always used with a heat-resistant or ceramic socket. Under-soil or under-tank heaters can be added if more heat or humidity is needed, but they must be used carefully and safely.

Use easy-to-read thermometers in the habitat, and control temps by changing the height or number of heaters, or using a thermostatic control.

LIGHTING. Offer about 12 hours of good light a day. The best bulbs offer UVB lighting as it helps tortoises make vitamin D3 in their skin (if they do not spend time outdoors). With any bulb, follow the manufacturers instructions (including recommendations for replacement) and use common sense. 

HUMIDITY. All tortoises, especially young animals, need some humidity. Aim for a range of about 40% to 70% for most tortoises, going as high as 70 to 100% for the 'cool temp' species listed above. All tortoises should have access to a humid hiding place. Young tortoises should be thoroughly misted 2 or more times a day.

Use easy to read humidity gauges, and adjust humidity by changing the air flow, adding live plants, misting, soaking the tortoise in warm shallow water, etc.


3. FEEDING A TORTOISE
Animal diets should be nutritionally complete, encourage natural feeding behavior, consistently eaten, and be practical and economical. The 'Weed Diet' is best for most common pet tortoises.

INGREDIENTS in the 'Weed Diet' include:
- Common yard plants: most grasses, dandelions, plantain, vetch, thistle, grape leaves, mulberry leaves.
- Edible flowering and decorative plants: violet, rose, pansy, geraniums, daises, zinnias, marigolds, hibiscus, nasturtium, chrysanthemum, fern, fig, Opuntia cacti (pads, fruits, flowers).
- Grocery store: lettuces, greens, dandelion, spinach, kale, cactus pads, edible flowers, and cabbage. Bagged salad mixes with a variety of colors and shapes are helpful. (Spinach and light green lettuces, like Iceberg or Romaine, should only be used sparingly as part of a rotation.) Some especially good lettuces are Escarole, Endive, and Arugula (Rocket).
- Other: Live or dried hays (alfalfa, Timothy grass, orchard grass, Bermudagrass), live wheatgrass (sold for cats, etc.)
- AVOID known dangerous plants, like lily, ivy, yew, foxglove, oak, the common 'Christmas plants', and tobacco. Also avoid commercial diets and chows until you learn more about your pet's needs and what is available.

Rotate what is offered as often as possible. To ensure that they get all the nutrients they need, add a pinch of calcium powder 1 or 2 times a week, and a pinch of multivitamin about every 2 weeks.

FRUIT AND MEAT EATERS. Most tortoises should not have fruit or meat, other than a rare snack. The 'forest tortoises' are designed to digest a wider range of foods since their native plants are so low in nutrients. 
- Yellow-foots and Hinge-backs should get about 1/4th of their diet in fruit and about 1/10th in meat, 
- Red-foots should get about the same or less, and 
- Box Turtles should get about 1/4th of the diet in meat and 1/10th in fruit.

Foods you can offer these box turtles and tortoises include:
- Fruits: figs, papaya, mango, cactus 'pears' and pineapple are best but other fruits (and vegetables with seeds) are OK in rotation.
- Mushrooms should be offered often.
- Meats: worms, many kinds of bugs and larvae, young rats or mice (often frozen- warm before using), slugs, snails, cooked chicken or organ meat, oily fish, or a high quality/low fat dog or cat food.
- Avoid: hot peppers and most citrus (an occasional naval orange is OK.) Bananas and grapes should be used less often. Also avoid processed or fatty meats.

HOW MUCH TO FEED? It is easy to overfeed a small tortoise, which can make them obese or stress their bones and organs. A couple of common feeding tricks include:
- Small daily meal of good food.
- Removing uneaten food after about 15 minutes.
- Offering larger meals, but less often. An adult tortoise may only be fed a real meal two or three times a week.
- You can offer a 'second meal' for torts that are still hungry. Aim for foods that are high in fiber and low in other nutrients, like edible flowers and lettuces.

Use an easy-to-clean feeding surface, like slate or tile, small plates, disposable newspaper 'plates', etc.

FOR MORE INFORMATION
This is only the beginning- there are several great books, websites, and other sources for good information. A couple places to start would include:
- http://www.tortoiseforum.org
- http://www.tortoisetrust.org 
- http://www.austinsturtlepage.com


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## Annieski (Jul 23, 2010)

Mark, Really nice job. If I could just suggest--- adding just a few more words at the top---stressing that these are BASIC or Very General guidelines. I know myself and quickly reading, I might just take for granted, that because I have a TORTOISE---all tortoise keepers should include ALL the guidelines for any specific tortoise. Just a thought.


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