# Building your own Expanded PVC Enclosed Chamber – For Beginners



## Sterant

I have recently been asked to do a post on building an enclosed chamber using PVC, and to tailor the post to those that have NO fabrication / wood working experience and the resultant lack of tools. So, that’s what this post is about. If you have even basic wood working or metal working skills, much of this will certainly be repeating things you already know. So, now that the disclaimer is out of the way….



PVC stands for Polyvinyl Chloride and is most commonly heard of when talking about the white plumbing pipe used in residential and commercial plumbing. Though you can buy true PVC in sheets, it is heavy, expensive and likely overkill for our purposes here. What we will be using is Expanded PVC. Expanded PVC utilizes a manufacturing process where air is introduced during the process which “expands” the material by including microscopic bubbles within it. The addition of the air makes it lighter and less expensive, but also makes it significantly less rigid and less durable. Expanded PVC needs to be braced if using large pieces, scratches easily and can crack/shatter if you drop it. That being said, if you handle it with some care, it does make a good choice for our enclosed chambers. Expanded PVC is often sold under the brand name of Sintra, so if you hear “Sintra” that’s the right stuff. You can buy it in white, black or even sheets with one side black and one side white.

This post will be based on making an enclosure that is 4’ long, 3’ deep and 2’ high. Though this might not be the ideal size for you, you can easily modify these plans to accommodate your needs. Just keep in mind that if you make one longer than 4 feet, you will need to brace the top so that it won’t sag and will support the weight of lighting. The picture above is showing 2 enclosures next to each other. These happen to be 5' wide as that's what fit my space best. Here is a picture of the bracing I have in the 5' version - again I don't think bracing will be required in the 4' enclosure.





*PARTS YOU WILL NEED (And where to get them)*

· _*Two 4’ X 8’ sheets of EPVC* _(White is the most common color though it can be found in black as well).

I would suggest you buy this from a plastics supplier or from a sign shop. You can also buy it from The Home Depot.

*· PVC Glue *

Get clear glue – not the purple stuff. This can also be purchased from a plastics supplier or The Home Depot.
*
· A tube of marine grade caulk*. For white enclosures, I like to use Loctite brand marine caulk:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-10-fl-oz-PL-Marine-Fast-Cure-Adhesive-Sealant-2016891/206156418

·* Sliding Glass Door Track* – Upper and Lower track – 4’

The best stuff I have found can be ordered here:

http://www.completecabinethardware....Track-Kit-No.1/Track-Assembly-1-4ft-Aluminum/

· _*Glass Door Pulls (2)*_

http://www.completecabinethardware....m-Sliding-Glass-Door-Pull-Satin-Clear-Finish/


*· 2 pieces of ¼” thick tempered glass. *

Each piece is 25” wide, but the height should be measured once your enclosure is done and you have installed the door track. The track comes with instructions that tell you how to measure for the glass.

*TOOLS YOU WILL NEED *

The most important tool you will need is a very sturdy and very flat work bench that is at least 4’ X 3’. This is critical. If your bench isn’t sturdy or flat, the EPVC panels will flex, your glue joints will be compromised and the panels wont fit squarely together.


Sand paper of various grits and a sanding block


A Jig Saw


An Awl – this will be used to “pre-drill” for the screws used to mount the door track. EPVC is relatively soft and you can easily press the awl into it which is must easier and more accurate than using a drill.


Clamps are critical to make sure the glue joints are tight and stay in place while the glue cures. You can never have too many clamps, but at an absolute minimum, I would suggest you have:

8 like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-T...d-2-1-2-in-Throat-Depth-TGJ2-536-2K/205402806

and 10 like this:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Electric-3-in-C-Clamp-1-Pack-KH905/202940470

Small Philips head screwdriver

A Drill with an assortment of bits
A framing square
Papertowels
A friend or two
*1) CUTTING THE PVC*

Since this post is for inexperienced fabricators, I would highly suggest you have someone else cut the sheets up for you. Doing it right really requires a table saw or a panel saw, and someone that knows how to use it! It also requires a saw with a new, or really good high tooth count blade. The reason for this is that we want a very high quality edge because we are gluing this whole thing together. If the edge is bumpy, full of record lines from the blade or not cut square, your glue joints could fail and the chamber will likely not fit together correctly.

If you buy the EPVC from a plastics supplier or sign shop, they can cut it for you. Try that first. If you buy it from The Home Depot, don’t let them cut it. The blades on their saws are generally dull, they won’t take the time to measure accurately enough, and they cut way too fast to get a good edge quality. Bring the sheets to a shop that can provide a very high quality of work. Sign shops, furniture or cabinet shops – someplace like that will have the tools and experience to do a good job for you. Don’t even bother trying to do it with a circular saw. Though its possible, if you had the experience to do that, you wouldn’t be reading this post and you would own a table saw!

Wherever you decide to have it cut, provide them with the cut sheet included in this post and they should be all set. (Cut Sheet is at the end of the post)

**** NOTE ****

You will notice on the cut sheet (below) that the sides, front and back are all defined as being 2’ tall. Since the sheet you will buy will be 4’ wide, you are cutting it in half, and the saw blade has some thickness to it (called a “kerf” and will likely be at least 3/16”) these panels will be slightly less than 2’. This is OK as long as the sides, front and back are all EXACTLY the same height. Make sure to tell your saw operator about this. If they know what they are doing, this won’t be a problem. Technically, the true height of the sides, front and back would be “2’ less ½ kerf”.


*2) Glue the back to the bottom*

Set the bottom panel on your sturdy flat bench. The back sits *ON *the bottom along the back side and should be perfectly even along the back and should be flush with the sides of the bottom panel. I would suggest you test fit this and figure out a way to hold it in place. This first panel can be done by hand (without clamps). Use the framing square to make sure the back is square to the bottom. Once you have practiced fitting it, put PVC glue on the bottom edge of the back panel and set the back panel *ON *the bottom panel. PVC glue sets up rather quickly so get the back in place quickly then hold it until the glue cures (less than 5 minutes). Have someone else hold the square to make sure you glue it squarely.

The picture below is showing the back sitting ON the bottom with a nice square fit:




*3) Glue the sides on*

Glue the sides on one at a time. The sides also sit *ON *the bottom panel and go back against the “back” you glued on in step 2. The side panel should fit squarely against the bottom and the back at the same time. Keep in mind that the sides will not be even along the front of the enclosure – this is because we have to leave room for the front panel and the sliding glass door tracks. I would again dry fit everything before you apply the glue. You can use clamps when gluing the sides. I would run a few clamps from top to bottom holding the side panel down against the bottom panel, and a couple clamps holding the side panel against the back panel. Having a friend or two to help with this is recommended. Make sure the joints are flush, tight and square. When you are confident and ready, apply glue to the bottom and back of the side panel and clamp it in place. Let the glue setup for 15 minutes or so, then remove the clamps and move on and do the same thing on the other side.

At this point you should have the back and the two sides glued to the bottom panel.

The next picture is showing the bottom, back and the newly added side - all fitting tight and square ready for glue:




*4) Cut the openings in the front and glue it on*

This is going to be the most time consuming part of the build. Most of the front will be removed in two “Windows” – This is totally up to you. I like using a bottom edge that is 5” tall so I have room for substrate and a 3” tall tortoise before it can see over it. I like a 3” edge along the top, and 2” right, center and left uprights. There is a detailed drawing of this included with the cut sheet below. Modify these measurements to suit your needs. A good way to cut out the windows is by using a jig saw. You can drill a hole in the middle of one of the windows and then cut to your window lines. Then repeat for the other window. Take a look at the drawing – it explains a lot. Once you cut the openings out, you can sand them until they are as perfect and smooth as you like. You might want to hit these edges with some paint to seal the porous edge. Once the front is shaped, you can go ahead and glue it in place.

Gluing the front on is pretty straight forward. The only thing to watch for is that the front stays perfectly straight across its length. EPVC is very flexible (especially with the two giant holes you just cut in it) and when you apply clamp pressure, the front can easily bow and be glued into place along a curve rather than flat. This should be avoided as it will affect the proper fit of the sliding door track, (and it looks bad). What I do is I use the small clamps I suggested you buy and I clamp a rigid straight edge to the front panel close to, but not exactly along the bottom. This is so your straight edge does not accidently get glued to the bottom. You can use a 2X4 or you can even use the sliding glass door track itself – that is very rigid and is small.

Once you have dry fit everything, apply PVC glue along the bottom and sides of the Front Panel, set in place and put as many clamps on it as you have. You can put a bunch all along the front edge, and then on each side drawing the front panel back into the sides.

*5) Glue the top on*

This is real easy – as long as your back, front and sides were all exactly the same height and you glued them correctly. The front, back and sides should all be perfectly flush along the top – no little steps up or down as you move from one panel to the other. If there is a height difference big enough that the top wont sit flat, you will have to sand the top edges so that the top can sit flat. Once everything is nice and flat, apply PVC glue to the top edge of the front, back and sides, put the top on being careful to make sure its flush all around its perimeter and then apply a bunch of clamps. Make sure the top doesn’t slide around when you apply the clamps.

*6) Mount the sliding glass door track*

With the enclosure sitting on its bottom (as it was all why you were gluing) set the lower door track in place and clamp it there. There are instructions with the track you can follow. Once the track is clamped in place, use the awl and press pilot holes in each of the mounting holes. Put the small Phillips head screws in the holes and there you go. Flip the whole enclosure upside down and follow the same procedure to mount the top track. If both tracks are flush against the front panel, they should be plumb to each other and the glass doors should fit and slide smoothly.







*7) Measure for and have your doors cut*

Follow the measuring instructions from your door track to get the correct width and height of the glass. You will need ¼” tempered glass doors. Any local glass shop should be able to provide these doors.

Once you have the doors, you can attach the door handles. To mount those, put one piece of black electrical tape on the glass edge where you want the handle. Press (or lightly tap) the handle over the tape and this should provide a very tight fitting handle. Repeat for the other door, put the doors in the track and there you go!

*8) Finishing the enclosure*

Depending on your lighting and heating decisions, you can drill holes in the top and sides for mounting these fixtures.

You should also seal all of the internal corners with the marine caulk I mentioned in the supply list. Though the PVC glue might possibly be water tight, it likely will not.

Hopefully this post provided some good information and didn’t create more confusion then its worth!


CUT SHEET





FRONT PANEL





Here are some additional pictures:


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## Yvonne G

A new thread was made including pictures, and in moving the posts around, I lost the two comments originally made on the thread. So I've copy/pasted them here . The Forum's program sorts posts in time/date order, so if I had tried to move the posts to this thread, they would have shown up on top, or before the info about building the inclosure:

*leigti said: ↑*

_Thank you for making this thread. For an 8 foot enclosure would it be better to make two of the 4 foot ones then put them together by modifying the two end panels? Seems like that would be more stable and prevent sagging in the middle. Or how would the bracing work for the roof to hold the lights?_




*Sterant said: *↑

_Yes - making 2 of the 4 foot enclosures and setting them side by side works. I did that with 2 five foot enclosures. Making an 8' enclosure would be fine, you would just have to brace the top effectively because an 8 foot piece of PVC will sag._


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## KevinGG

These are incredible. Really modern looking. I could put one of these in full view. Thanks for sharing. What have you kept in these?


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## Sterant

Thanks @KevinGG ! I keep young radiated tortoises in them.


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## Markw84

I sure wish Home Depot still carried these sheets. I would love to build a few of these with this material. If you call Home Depot, the say they do not carry and do not expect to any more. If you find one that happens to have stock still on hand, is about the only way apparently, they said.

Just for reference, if I contact local sign shops, about how much would I expect to pay ro get a full sheet of 1/2" expanded PVC? Prices seem to vary incredibly!


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## Sterant

Markw84 said:


> I sure wish Home Depot still carried these sheets. I would love to build a few of these with this material. If you call Home Depot, the say they do not carry and do not expect to any more. If you find one that happens to have stock still on hand, is about the only way apparently, they said.
> 
> Just for reference, if I contact local sign shops, about how much would I expect to pay ro get a full sheet of 1/2" expanded PVC? Prices seem to vary incredibly!


My Local Home Depot has some, but maybe its left over as you say.

I would expect to pay about $100 a sheet for a 1/2" 4 X 8 sheet. I think the 5 X 10 sheets were $150 or so.


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## Neal

Very interesting, thanks for sharing.

I apologize if I missed this, but what did you do to accommodate the electric cords for your lighting?


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## Sterant

Neal said:


> Very interesting, thanks for sharing.
> 
> I apologize if I missed this, but what did you do to accommodate the electric cords for your lighting?


I just drilled a 1 1/2" hole in the back panel, right up near the top, in line with where the cord comes out of the light fixture. This way there isn't a bunch of cord in the enclosure.


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## Neal

Do you block any remaining void in the 1 1/2" hole in any way? or, does that size of a hole not not create any issue with maintaining constant humid and temperature levels in your experience?


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## Sterant

Neal said:


> Do you block any remaining void in the 1 1/2" hole in any way? or, does that size of a hole not not create any issue with maintaining constant humid and temperature levels in your experience?


I don't block the hole. I have another enclosed chamber that I have used for a couple years which has fairly large vents in it, and I leave them open as well with no problem maintaining humidity. Depends on the background humidity where you live.....its pretty humid where I live a lot of the time.... though in dry environments you might need to block holes.


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## leigti

I found somebody that can help me build this enclosure using these plans. I am very excited and very much appreciate you making this thread. I'll post some pictures when it's done.


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## Sterant

Excellent. Feel free to reach out if you have any questions along the way.


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## KevinGG

leigti said:


> I found somebody that can help me build this enclosure using these plans. I am very excited and very much appreciate you making this thread. I'll post some pictures when it's done.



Make sure to tag me when you post those pics. I want to see the process and the finished product decked out and in use.


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## Kapidolo Farms

I know it takes reasonable 'carpentry skill' to do this, but for me that is often the easy part. You did all the spatial and material use thinking and that is really helpful. I was contemplated doing this but then bought some vision cages as the basic unit was already there for me to make 'tortoise' worthy. Next upscale I will go with this.


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## Sterant

Will said:


> I know it takes reasonable 'carpentry skill' to do this, but for me that is often the easy part. You did all the spatial and material use thinking and that is really helpful. I was contemplated doing this but then bought some vision cages as the basic unit was already there for me to make 'tortoise' worthy. Next upscale I will go with this.


The very first chamber-type setup I had was (still is) a modified Vision Cage. Actually works great, since my entire room is heated. The Vision Cage I used is too short (18") to comfortably put heat lamps / CHE's, etc in it. (at least for me). Since the room is heated, i don't need anything in there other than a small heat lamp. These new PVC enclosures are taller so there is room to mount whatever you need.


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## Kapidolo Farms

Sterant said:


> The very first chamber-type setup I had was (still is) a modified Vision Cage. Actually works great, since my entire room is heated. The Vision Cage I used is too short (18") to comfortably put heat lamps / CHE's, etc in it. (at least for me). Since the room is heated, i don't need anything in there other than a small heat lamp. These new PVC enclosures are taller so there is room to mount whatever you need.


 I use heat panels, no worries with 18 inch head room. It's actually closer to a foot, I put a deep substrate in for most uses.


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## Kapidolo Farms

My latest already built conversion are cricket tubs. I posted images of them in 'live naked people'. I put doors in each end and have them across a four foot shelf.

Do you think this design here would work okay that way in terms of ceiling/structural support? The long sides would be solid and the short sides would be made to receive doors. This way I only need to be able to reach two feet in, not three and I still get the floor space. They are not so 'eye' friendly.


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## leigti

I talked to a sign maker here in town and he said there is no difference between expanded PVC and regular PVC sheets. Should I find a different sign maker?


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## Sterant

leigti said:


> I talked to a sign maker here in town and he said there is no difference between expanded PVC and regular PVC sheets. Should I find a different sign maker?


;-)
There is absolutely a difference. Hard to show you with images, but regular PVC kind of looks like milky white plexiglass, while Expanded PVC has more of a really dense foam look.


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## Sterant

Will said:


> My latest already built conversion are cricket tubs. I posted images of them in 'live naked people'. I put doors in each end and have them across a four foot shelf.
> 
> Do you think this design here would work okay that way in terms of ceiling/structural support? The long sides would be solid and the short sides would be made to receive doors. This way I only need to be able to reach two feet in, not three and I still get the floor space. They are not so 'eye' friendly.


I can't find the picture you are talking about - can you upload it here?


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## leigti

Sterant said:


> My Local Home Depot has some, but maybe its left over as you say.
> 
> I would expect to pay about $100 a sheet for a 1/2" 4 X 8 sheet. I think the 5 X 10 sheets were $150 or so.


My local sign company, yes there's only one because it is a small town  quoted me $150 for one sheet. A little more than I had hoped but I'm probably still gonna go for it.


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## Sterant

If that includes the labor to cut it up, then that's a great price, but I suspect it doesn't.


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## Kapidolo Farms

Sterant said:


> I can't find the picture you are talking about - can you upload it here?


http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/live-naked-people.126107/page-19#post-1475310

They are between 24 and 26 inches wide, 50 to 52 inches long, and 18 to 20 inches tall. Very variable. I put a wood frame on the inside lip and make them all 18 inches tall. I cut a door into each end. I use just a sheet of 1/2 inch foam board as a lid. RH hits 95% + real easy. To vent I push the foam board to one side or the other. Reach for access is 24 inches from either end.


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## Sterant

Will said:


> http://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/live-naked-people.126107/page-19#post-1475310
> 
> They are between 24 and 26 inches wide, 50 to 52 inches long, and 18 to 20 inches tall. Very variable. I put a wood frame on the inside lip and make them all 18 inches tall. I cut a door into each end. I use just a sheet of 1/2 inch foam board as a lid. RH hits 95% + real easy. To vent I push the foam board to one side or the other. Reach for access is 24 inches from either end.


I think the top will be pretty sturdy with the sides used as the door frames rather than the front. Bracing the top isn't a big deal, so once you get it done, if the top is too flexible, you could always add a brace or two.


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## Shaif

Thank you so much! Very helpful! I wish I had seen this before I bought my Animal Plastics cage!


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## emdubz

Couple of questions about this chamber.

1) How sturdy is it? Like, could it be moved after being built? 

2) How expandable is it? If we build one 4' long chamber for one small (growing) tort, and need to add on the next year - is that possible, or is it just better to build big?

Basically, we're considering starting upstairs with a smaller chamber, then potentially moving downstairs and upsizing! But.. I don't know how feasible that really is! 

Thanks!


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## Sterant

HI there,
As far as moving them goes - absolutely. The bigger they are, the more internal support they need, but if you build it with enough support to begin with, you can move them just fine. I move my 3 X 5's twice a year with the seasons.

Making an existing one bigger wouldn't be too practical. They are glued together or at very least, sealed with silicon. You could certainly do it, but I would just build bigger to begin with or keep the smaller one for backup and build a bigger one when the time comes.

For the smaller one, buying it from Animal Plastics is a good option. The small ones are inexpensive and they make a nice product. One problem I run into with them is that they currently have a 13 week backlog, but sometimes they have cancelled orders or backlog enclosures available.

Have fun!


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## BevSmith

Thank you for this write-up. I used your plans and made our first indoor small tortoise enclosure (with wood). I can’t wait to do EPVC for the next one. 

Still a work in progress but wanted to show you. I can’t thank you enough.


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## kellygirl64

Wow !! Thanks for all this !!


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## Sterant

kellygirl64 said:


> Wow !! Thanks for all this !!


You're welcome!


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## Sterant

BevSmith said:


> Thank you for this write-up. I used your plans and made our first indoor small tortoise enclosure (with wood). I can’t wait to do EPVC for the next one.
> 
> Still a work in progress but wanted to show you. I can’t thank you enough.
> View attachment 231630


Well that's great! I'm really glad you got some practical use out of this post. Nice job - I hope it works well for you.


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## BevSmith

Sterant said:


> Well that's great! I'm really glad you got some practical use out of this post. Nice job - I hope it works well for you.



And - I got to learn how to do a couple cool things, like use a jigsaw. Totally a win, all around!


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## Sterant

BevSmith said:


> And - I got to learn how to do a couple cool things, like use a jigsaw. Totally a win, all around!


Good to hear. Tortoises and Fabrication!


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## RitaC

This is such a helpful post. Thank you! My Home Depot has something called Cellular PVC panels. They are 1/2" 4x8 sheets. Is this similar to what you used? Would it work? I'll post a link to it below.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda...llular-White-PVC-Panel-HDSHSM124808/301950563


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## Sterant

RitaC said:


> This is such a helpful post. Thank you! My Home Depot has something called Cellular PVC panels. They are 1/2" 4x8 sheets. Is this similar to what you used? Would it work? I'll post a link to it below.
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda...llular-White-PVC-Panel-HDSHSM124808/301950563


It looks like the right stuff. I don't know that I've ever seen what they actually call it - as far as a product name goes, but cellular makes sense based on the manufacturing process. That should do it !

Glad you find the post helpful !!

Dan


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## Spencertretter

Looks awesome, I am trying to do something similar only bigger. Im sending in a quote to the local plastic shops. Im hoping to make a 5'x3' enclosure. quick question, what is the 33 7/8 dimension would that change for a larger setup? its probably something simple but I do not projects like this... Also I am attaching my layout, is this correct for a 5'x3' ? Thanks!


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## Sterant

@Spencertretter - Glad you are putting this to use. I also built mine 5' by 3'. Its a great size. The 33 7/8" dimension would be used for any enclosure that is 3' deep, so that would be correct for you. It is the length of the two sides. Now, keep in mind that dimension is what it is due to the width of the specific lower door track that I outline above. I have included a picture above that shows the lower door track installed. That 33 7/8" is the side panel. That leaves room for the front piece, the door track, and a small bit of space in front of the door track. Check out the picture and you will see what I mean.


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## Spencertretter

Sterant said:


> @Spencertretter - Glad you are putting this to use. I also built mine 5' by 3'. Its a great size. The 33 7/8" dimension would be used for any enclosure that is 3' deep, so that would be correct for you. It is the length of the two sides. Now, keep in mind that dimension is what it is due to the width of the specific lower door track that I outline above. I have included a picture above that shows the lower door track installed. That 33 7/8" is the side panel. That leaves room for the front piece, the door track, and a small bit of space in front of the door track. Check out the picture and you will see what I mean.




Awesome, thank you for the reply! very excited to start this build. thank you for clarifying that for me. I have been in contact with several different plastic companies around me all have fluctuating prices for the PVC. to buy enough material they are asking for close to $500. if you dont mind me asking, how much was yours all together for the specific 5x3 build? Looks like the my local home depot doesnt have the correct pvc. Have you heard of Veranda HP 1/2 in. x 48 in. x 8 ft. White PVC Trim?


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## Sterant

That might be the stuff. I use the smooth stuff - sometimes they press a fake wood grain into it. Those 4 x 8 sheets, when I bought them, were about $100 each. I think I needed 3 of the 4x8 sheets, so $300 ish. The plastics place is likely charging you at least an hour of shop time to cut it up. Did you consider buying one done fro Animal Plastics?


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## Spencertretter

Alright I will have to take a look at it when I go by one day. I am considering buying from an online source such as Animal Plastic and the prices are fairly good however, the shipping is another few hundred dollars which is why I still havent comitted to it yet. Would you recommend I do that instead? I have not bought any of the clamps or glue or glass yet for the project. Im guessing that will be pricey as well.


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## Sterant

I love building stuff and I think more people should do the same, but for this particular scenario - where you don't already have the tools, getting one from animal plastics will guarantee its right, and will probably cost nearly the same as doing it yourself. The only reason I didn't buy the last two from animal plastics was because there was a 14 week back-log on production.


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## jsheffield

Thinking about this as a base material ...

1/2 in. x 48 in. x 8 ft. White PVC Trim

https://www.homedepot.com/p/205309788


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## Sterant

jsheffield said:


> Thinking about this as a base material ...
> 
> 1/2 in. x 48 in. x 8 ft. White PVC Trim
> 
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/205309788


That should work - looks like that stuff is textured. If you can get it with a smooth surface - it will make cleaning it easier.


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## MaryJane

Sterant said:


> I have recently been asked to do a post on building an enclosed chamber using PVC, and to tailor the post to those that have NO fabrication / wood working experience and the resultant lack of tools. So, that’s what this post is about. If you have even basic wood working or metal working skills, much of this will certainly be repeating things you already know. So, now that the disclaimer is out of the way….
> View attachment 212809
> 
> 
> PVC stands for Polyvinyl Chloride and is most commonly heard of when talking about the white plumbing pipe used in residential and commercial plumbing. Though you can buy true PVC in sheets, it is heavy, expensive and likely overkill for our purposes here. What we will be using is Expanded PVC. Expanded PVC utilizes a manufacturing process where air is introduced during the process which “expands” the material by including microscopic bubbles within it. The addition of the air makes it lighter and less expensive, but also makes it significantly less rigid and less durable. Expanded PVC needs to be braced if using large pieces, scratches easily and can crack/shatter if you drop it. That being said, if you handle it with some care, it does make a good choice for our enclosed chambers. Expanded PVC is often sold under the brand name of Sintra, so if you hear “Sintra” that’s the right stuff. You can buy it in white, black or even sheets with one side black and one side white.
> 
> This post will be based on making an enclosure that is 4’ long, 3’ deep and 2’ high. Though this might not be the ideal size for you, you can easily modify these plans to accommodate your needs. Just keep in mind that if you make one longer than 4 feet, you will need to brace the top so that it won’t sag and will support the weight of lighting. The picture above is showing 2 enclosures next to each other. These happen to be 5' wide as that's what fit my space best. Here is a picture of the bracing I have in the 5' version - again I don't think bracing will be required in the 4' enclosure.
> View attachment 212810
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *PARTS YOU WILL NEED (And where to get them)*
> 
> · _*Two 4’ X 8’ sheets of EPVC* _(White is the most common color though it can be found in black as well).
> 
> I would suggest you buy this from a plastics supplier or from a sign shop. You can also buy it from The Home Depot.
> 
> *· PVC Glue *
> 
> Get clear glue – not the purple stuff. This can also be purchased from a plastics supplier or The Home Depot.
> *
> · A tube of marine grade caulk*. For white enclosures, I like to use Loctite brand marine caulk:
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-10-fl-oz-PL-Marine-Fast-Cure-Adhesive-Sealant-2016891/206156418
> 
> ·* Sliding Glass Door Track* – Upper and Lower track – 4’
> 
> The best stuff I have found can be ordered here:
> 
> http://www.completecabinethardware....Track-Kit-No.1/Track-Assembly-1-4ft-Aluminum/
> 
> · _*Glass Door Pulls (2)*_
> 
> http://www.completecabinethardware....m-Sliding-Glass-Door-Pull-Satin-Clear-Finish/
> 
> 
> *· 2 pieces of ¼” thick tempered glass. *
> 
> Each piece is 25” wide, but the height should be measured once your enclosure is done and you have installed the door track. The track comes with instructions that tell you how to measure for the glass.
> 
> *TOOLS YOU WILL NEED *
> 
> The most important tool you will need is a very sturdy and very flat work bench that is at least 4’ X 3’. This is critical. If your bench isn’t sturdy or flat, the EPVC panels will flex, your glue joints will be compromised and the panels wont fit squarely together.
> 
> 
> Sand paper of various grits and a sanding block
> 
> 
> A Jig Saw
> 
> 
> An Awl – this will be used to “pre-drill” for the screws used to mount the door track. EPVC is relatively soft and you can easily press the awl into it which is must easier and more accurate than using a drill.
> 
> 
> Clamps are critical to make sure the glue joints are tight and stay in place while the glue cures. You can never have too many clamps, but at an absolute minimum, I would suggest you have:
> 
> 8 like this:
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/BESSEY-T...d-2-1-2-in-Throat-Depth-TGJ2-536-2K/205402806
> 
> and 10 like this:
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lincoln-Electric-3-in-C-Clamp-1-Pack-KH905/202940470
> 
> Small Philips head screwdriver
> 
> A Drill with an assortment of bits
> A framing square
> Papertowels
> A friend or two
> *1) CUTTING THE PVC*
> 
> Since this post is for inexperienced fabricators, I would highly suggest you have someone else cut the sheets up for you. Doing it right really requires a table saw or a panel saw, and someone that knows how to use it! It also requires a saw with a new, or really good high tooth count blade. The reason for this is that we want a very high quality edge because we are gluing this whole thing together. If the edge is bumpy, full of record lines from the blade or not cut square, your glue joints could fail and the chamber will likely not fit together correctly.
> 
> If you buy the EPVC from a plastics supplier or sign shop, they can cut it for you. Try that first. If you buy it from The Home Depot, don’t let them cut it. The blades on their saws are generally dull, they won’t take the time to measure accurately enough, and they cut way too fast to get a good edge quality. Bring the sheets to a shop that can provide a very high quality of work. Sign shops, furniture or cabinet shops – someplace like that will have the tools and experience to do a good job for you. Don’t even bother trying to do it with a circular saw. Though its possible, if you had the experience to do that, you wouldn’t be reading this post and you would own a table saw!
> 
> Wherever you decide to have it cut, provide them with the cut sheet included in this post and they should be all set. (Cut Sheet is at the end of the post)
> 
> **** NOTE ****
> 
> You will notice on the cut sheet (below) that the sides, front and back are all defined as being 2’ tall. Since the sheet you will buy will be 4’ wide, you are cutting it in half, and the saw blade has some thickness to it (called a “kerf” and will likely be at least 3/16”) these panels will be slightly less than 2’. This is OK as long as the sides, front and back are all EXACTLY the same height. Make sure to tell your saw operator about this. If they know what they are doing, this won’t be a problem. Technically, the true height of the sides, front and back would be “2’ less ½ kerf”.
> 
> 
> *2) Glue the back to the bottom*
> 
> Set the bottom panel on your sturdy flat bench. The back sits *ON *the bottom along the back side and should be perfectly even along the back and should be flush with the sides of the bottom panel. I would suggest you test fit this and figure out a way to hold it in place. This first panel can be done by hand (without clamps). Use the framing square to make sure the back is square to the bottom. Once you have practiced fitting it, put PVC glue on the bottom edge of the back panel and set the back panel *ON *the bottom panel. PVC glue sets up rather quickly so get the back in place quickly then hold it until the glue cures (less than 5 minutes). Have someone else hold the square to make sure you glue it squarely.
> 
> The picture below is showing the back sitting ON the bottom with a nice square fit:
> View attachment 212811
> 
> 
> 
> *3) Glue the sides on*
> 
> Glue the sides on one at a time. The sides also sit *ON *the bottom panel and go back against the “back” you glued on in step 2. The side panel should fit squarely against the bottom and the back at the same time. Keep in mind that the sides will not be even along the front of the enclosure – this is because we have to leave room for the front panel and the sliding glass door tracks. I would again dry fit everything before you apply the glue. You can use clamps when gluing the sides. I would run a few clamps from top to bottom holding the side panel down against the bottom panel, and a couple clamps holding the side panel against the back panel. Having a friend or two to help with this is recommended. Make sure the joints are flush, tight and square. When you are confident and ready, apply glue to the bottom and back of the side panel and clamp it in place. Let the glue setup for 15 minutes or so, then remove the clamps and move on and do the same thing on the other side.
> 
> At this point you should have the back and the two sides glued to the bottom panel.
> 
> The next picture is showing the bottom, back and the newly added side - all fitting tight and square ready for glue:
> View attachment 212812
> 
> 
> 
> *4) Cut the openings in the front and glue it on*
> 
> This is going to be the most time consuming part of the build. Most of the front will be removed in two “Windows” – This is totally up to you. I like using a bottom edge that is 5” tall so I have room for substrate and a 3” tall tortoise before it can see over it. I like a 3” edge along the top, and 2” right, center and left uprights. There is a detailed drawing of this included with the cut sheet below. Modify these measurements to suit your needs. A good way to cut out the windows is by using a jig saw. You can drill a hole in the middle of one of the windows and then cut to your window lines. Then repeat for the other window. Take a look at the drawing – it explains a lot. Once you cut the openings out, you can sand them until they are as perfect and smooth as you like. You might want to hit these edges with some paint to seal the porous edge. Once the front is shaped, you can go ahead and glue it in place.
> 
> Gluing the front on is pretty straight forward. The only thing to watch for is that the front stays perfectly straight across its length. EPVC is very flexible (especially with the two giant holes you just cut in it) and when you apply clamp pressure, the front can easily bow and be glued into place along a curve rather than flat. This should be avoided as it will affect the proper fit of the sliding door track, (and it looks bad). What I do is I use the small clamps I suggested you buy and I clamp a rigid straight edge to the front panel close to, but not exactly along the bottom. This is so your straight edge does not accidently get glued to the bottom. You can use a 2X4 or you can even use the sliding glass door track itself – that is very rigid and is small.
> 
> Once you have dry fit everything, apply PVC glue along the bottom and sides of the Front Panel, set in place and put as many clamps on it as you have. You can put a bunch all along the front edge, and then on each side drawing the front panel back into the sides.
> 
> *5) Glue the top on*
> 
> This is real easy – as long as your back, front and sides were all exactly the same height and you glued them correctly. The front, back and sides should all be perfectly flush along the top – no little steps up or down as you move from one panel to the other. If there is a height difference big enough that the top wont sit flat, you will have to sand the top edges so that the top can sit flat. Once everything is nice and flat, apply PVC glue to the top edge of the front, back and sides, put the top on being careful to make sure its flush all around its perimeter and then apply a bunch of clamps. Make sure the top doesn’t slide around when you apply the clamps.
> 
> *6) Mount the sliding glass door track*
> 
> With the enclosure sitting on its bottom (as it was all why you were gluing) set the lower door track in place and clamp it there. There are instructions with the track you can follow. Once the track is clamped in place, use the awl and press pilot holes in each of the mounting holes. Put the small Phillips head screws in the holes and there you go. Flip the whole enclosure upside down and follow the same procedure to mount the top track. If both tracks are flush against the front panel, they should be plumb to each other and the glass doors should fit and slide smoothly.
> View attachment 212813
> 
> View attachment 212817
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *7) Measure for and have your doors cut*
> 
> Follow the measuring instructions from your door track to get the correct width and height of the glass. You will need ¼” tempered glass doors. Any local glass shop should be able to provide these doors.
> 
> Once you have the doors, you can attach the door handles. To mount those, put one piece of black electrical tape on the glass edge where you want the handle. Press (or lightly tap) the handle over the tape and this should provide a very tight fitting handle. Repeat for the other door, put the doors in the track and there you go!
> 
> *8) Finishing the enclosure*
> 
> Depending on your lighting and heating decisions, you can drill holes in the top and sides for mounting these fixtures.
> 
> You should also seal all of the internal corners with the marine caulk I mentioned in the supply list. Though the PVC glue might possibly be water tight, it likely will not.
> 
> Hopefully this post provided some good information and didn’t create more confusion then its worth!
> 
> 
> CUT SHEET
> View attachment 212925
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FRONT PANEL
> 
> View attachment 212926
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some additional pictures:
> View attachment 212815
> View attachment 212816


Would you please tell me what kind of lighting/heating you are using? Thank you


----------



## Sterant

MaryJane said:


> Would you please tell me what kind of lighting/heating you are using? Thank you


For heating, I heat the entire room - but when I do need to heat an individual enclosure, I use a 100W CHE on a HerpStat controller. For lighting, I run AgroBrite HO Fluorescent fixtures. In these smaller chambers (under 6 feet long) I use the 2 bulb fixtures. I run one 4' Reptisun 10.0 T5 HO bulb and one 6500K grow bulb. I then set the height of the fixture (to the correct UV index) using a Solarmeter 6.5 UVI meter. The desired UVI is species dependent. For radiata babies, I shoot for a UVI of 3 or 4.


----------



## PA2019

@Sterant I am working on expanding your tutorial to an 8ft, but am having difficulties finding 96" bi-passing tracking kits that are specifically for glass. I think I found one, could you tell me if the nylon rollers would work with the dimensions in your original tutorial revised to an 8ft length?

https://www.unbeatablesale.com/hdsr...SGC2hgZU_QZ-AL5AZk1SQXcje5WE0ES4aAgcIEALw_wcB


----------



## Sterant

PA2019 said:


> @Sterant I am working on expanding your tutorial to an 8ft, but am having difficulties finding 96" bi-passing tracking kits that are specifically for glass. I think I found one, could you tell me if the nylon rollers would work with the dimensions in your original tutorial revised to an 8ft length?
> 
> https://www.unbeatablesale.com/hdsr...SGC2hgZU_QZ-AL5AZk1SQXcje5WE0ES4aAgcIEALw_wcB


Did you consider the aluminum tracks I link to in my tutorial? You should be able to order them in longer lengths or just butt two of them together. I will take a look at your link as well.


----------



## PA2019

Sterant said:


> Did you consider the aluminum tracks I link to in my tutorial? You should be able to order them in longer lengths or just butt two of them together. I will take a look at your link as well.



Ugh, I didn't think to just order two 4' and link them ......thanks!


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## Ali311

is it important to include vents? i found one premade that has 4 vents. im worried it wont hold the necessary humidity (80%). the vents dont close


----------



## Sterant

Ali311 said:


> is it important to include vents? i found one premade that has 4 vents. im worried it wont hold the necessary humidity (80%). the vents dont close


It will probably hold humidity fine but you can always block the vents with duct tape or similar. I have a vision cage with full length vents- I blocked them with tape.


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## Ali311

thank you. it is birch plywood with porcelain tile that was painted white, then sealed with kennel seal. im not sure if thats a good custom build for a baby sulcata or not as i need 80% humidity and temps around 85. any thoughts?


----------



## PA2019

Ali311 said:


> View attachment 270997
> View attachment 270996
> thank you. it is birch plywood with porcelain tile that was painted white, then sealed with kennel seal. im not sure if thats a good custom build for a baby sulcata or not as i need 80% humidity and temps around 85. any thoughts?



Thats going to be way too small for a sulcata in no time unless my spatial reasoning is way off. Have you read the sulcata caresheet yet? I will help you understand what to expect...


----------



## Ali311

PA2019 said:


> Thats going to be way too small for a sulcata in no time unless my spatial reasoning is way off. Have you read the sulcata caresheet yet? I will help you understand what to expect...


lol...of course i understand what to expect....just trying to get a closed chamber to cover me for 1-2 years than upgrade i guess. dont have enough to go the whole nine yards now


----------



## PA2019

Ali311 said:


> lol...of course i understand what to expect....just trying to get a closed chamber to cover me for 1-2 years than upgrade i guess. dont have enough to go the whole nine yards now



Just a thought, but I checked and the PVC paneling is available in your area. 99 Sutton Avenue, Oxford, MA 01540. Two 8x4' panels would run you around $140, and you could build a 12sq ft closed chamber designed specifically for tortoises. Also, the enclosure you posted has no barrier from the glass tracking and where the substrate would go.


----------



## Ali311

PA2019 said:


> Just a thought, but I checked and the PVC paneling is available in your area. 99 Sutton Avenue, Oxford, MA 01540. Two 8x4' panels would run you around $140, and you could build a 12sq ft closed chamber designed specifically for tortoises. Also, the enclosure you posted has no barrier from the glass tracking and where the substrate would go.


Yes, thank you. Unfortunately I am not handy and need someone else to build it for me. How should the doors be?


----------



## Sterant

Ali311 said:


> Yes, thank you. Unfortunately I am not handy and need someone else to build it for me. How should the doors be?


You should have what is often referred to as a "litter dam". This is a piece of material, say 5" tall, that runs along the length of the enclosure just behind the glass doors. This gives you the ability to dump substrate in there without it falling out when you slide the door open, and more importantly stops the tortoise from falling out of the enclosure if you forget to close the door - which will happen.


----------



## Ali311

The one on ap cages is 48 inches high... is that too tall? Should i try for 8x4x2?


----------



## Sterant

Ali311 said:


> The one on ap cages is 48 inches high... is that too tall? Should i try for 8x4x2?


They have many different sizes but I personally think 4' it too high. 2' or 3' is perfect for me.


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## Ali311

I did not see a section about how to put lights into this type of enclosure. Where would I put the heat lamps? Are usually use a daytime basketball in a nighttime basketball. Also how long with the fluorescent bulbs be? Would they run the entire length of the enclosure or just half?


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## Ali311

Basking bulb


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## Ali311

PA2019 said:


> Just a thought, but I checked and the PVC paneling is available in your area. 99 Sutton Avenue, Oxford, MA 01540. Two 8x4' panels would run you around $140, and you could build a 12sq ft closed chamber designed specifically for tortoises. Also, the enclosure you posted has no barrier from the glass tracking and where the substrate would go.


I saw this at home depot...is this what you were talking about?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda...Reversible-PVC-Trim-Sheet-H190AWS13/206822526


----------



## Sterant

Ali311 said:


> I saw this at home depot...is this what you were talking about?
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda...Reversible-PVC-Trim-Sheet-H190AWS13/206822526


Basically - Yes. That stuff is 3/4" thick and wood grained. My local Home Depot has 1/2" material with no grain to it. That's what I use, but the 3/4" will work too.


----------



## Ali311

Can I use a flourescent fixture from home depot and put a reptisun 10.0 in for a uvb light (baby sulcata) or must it be a reptile specific (zoomed) fixture? Recommendations of flourescent fixtures?


----------



## PA2019

Ali311 said:


> Can I use a flourescent fixture from home depot and put a reptisun 10.0 in for a uvb light (baby sulcata) or must it be a reptile specific (zoomed) fixture? Recommendations of flourescent fixtures?



I recommend posting your questions about building your own tank in a new thread. This thread is a sticky and you are going to get a larger amount of responses if you post in a new thread as more people will see your posts. Make sure to give an introduction with what you are trying to achieve, your skills etc...


----------



## Zerostar2410

Man, it would be awesome to watch a YouTube video of you building one of these. I’m more of a visual learner.


----------



## PA2019

Thanks again to @Sterant for this build tutorial. 80% of the way there. Once the top/aluminum tracking is secure I'll be looking for a glass cutting shop near me. 





@Sterant Someone mentioned using "annealed glass" instead of tempered glass. Have you heard/used that type of glass before in any of your setups?


----------



## Sterant

PA2019 said:


> Thanks again to @Sterant for this build tutorial. 80% of the way there. Once the top/aluminum tracking is secure I'll be looking for a glass cutting shop near me.
> 
> View attachment 279231
> View attachment 279232
> 
> 
> @Sterant Someone mentioned using "annealed glass" instead of tempered glass. Have you heard/used that type of glass before in any of your setups?


Looks great. Glad you found this post valuable. I have never used annealed glass and I have no experience with it. Mine all have tempered glass just in case something breaks it, I don’t have shards of glass around.


----------



## Stoneman

@Kapidolo Farms @Sterant how deep would I need to have it in order to house adult indian stars in, deep enough fir bark for them to be able to lay eggs inside of. 

I am planning on building a three 4×8 section enclosure shaped like a C. I am not sure how I can maintain enough structural integrity along the outside of the enclosure. The top C shape is what I am going for. I want to know if I can get away with 12- 14 in litter guard or do I need 18 in?


----------



## Sterant

Stoneman said:


> @Kapidolo Farms @Sterant how deep would I need to have it in order to house adult indian stars in, deep enough fir bark for them to be able to lay eggs inside of.
> 
> I am planning on building a three 4×8 section enclosure shaped like a C. I am not sure how I can maintain enough structural integrity along the outside of the enclosure. The top C shape is what I am going for. I want to know if I can get away with 12- 14 in litter guard or do I need 18 in?


If memory serves indian star nest about 6" deep. I would think a 14" litter guard would be fine. 7" of substrate and 7" of additional height seems fine. Assuming you will have doors above that so they can't fall out if they happen to climb up? Someone else correct me if Indian stars go deeper.


----------



## StarTort869

Hey first off just wanted to say thanks, this is a really nice guide!
Also wanted to add an idea of using a strip of maybe .5inx.5in piece of the epvc, or something similar, to all of the joints instead of silicone. Silicone is known in the use of pvc trim for construction applications of windows to be a poor choice, because it lacks the ability to bind/ make a lasting seal on the smooth surfaces. I'm sure it would work temporarily but if your tort digs, or as you move around substrate or pots etc. it may come off. I think the use of another strip of epvc that lies directly at the corner seem may be enough to make a good seal (it would also add some structural integrity). The glue that is supposed to be used with this material actually welds it together by almost melting the surface. I understand not trusting just a single edge but I think If this extra strip is added there would be no need to worry and would add to the builds life span. @Sterant


----------



## PA2019

@Sterant I am planning to build a 4 tank tower later this week but had a question. There is a roughly .5" gap between the tracking/glass depending on the track furthest from the litter dam. 




I am thinking of ways to seal the gap a bit and still allow the glass to move and came up with door/window pile edging like the one in the link below.



https://www.allaboutdoors.com/Adhesive-back-Weatherstrip-250-back-x-150-Pile-Graygclid=EAIaIQobChMIqPDAlPKW8AIV-yCtBh3OTwhkEAQYAyABEgJoUPD_BwE



Have you ever thought about ways to better seal the enclosure side that has the furthest glass piece resting at its edge?


----------



## captainbohannon

I am working on building one of these for my Redfoot. I was just wondering where you found the light fixture? I currently have 2 sets of dome lights, but I would like to consolidate to one large fixture like in the pic of your enclosure. Thanks


----------



## Dave CH

Yvonne G said:


> A new thread was made including pictures, and in moving the posts around, I lost the two comments originally made on the thread. So I've copy/pasted them here . The Forum's program sorts posts in time/date order, so if I had tried to move the posts to this thread, they would have shown up on top, or before the info about building the inclosure:
> 
> *leigti said: ↑*
> 
> _Thank you for making this thread. For an 8 foot enclosure would it be better to make two of the 4 foot ones then put them together by modifying the two end panels? Seems like that would be more stable and prevent sagging in the middle. Or how would the bracing work for the roof to hold the lights?_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sterant said: *↑
> 
> _Yes - making 2 of the 4 foot enclosures and setting them side by side works. I did that with 2 five foot enclosures. Making an 8' enclosure would be fine, you would just have to brace the top effectively because an 8 foot piece of PVC will sag._


Hi Sterant,
Are you still around?

We've decided to build a 2 meter by 1 meter version of your design, but I have some questions...

Best regards - 
Dave


----------



## Sterant

Dave CH said:


> Hi Sterant,
> Are you still around?
> 
> We've decided to build a 2 meter by 1 meter version of your design, but I have some questions...
> 
> Best regards -
> Dave


hey - yup....I'm around.


----------



## Dave CH

Sterant said:


> hey - yup....I'm around.


That's good. I think I need saving:
So, we have two five year old Hermann's and it's long been time to give them a bigger home. And we've decided to build your design. A little smaller (6 and half by 3 and quarter foot), as it is only for safety at night and for the post- and pre-hibernation periods when the weather is bad. These tortoises spend most of their year outside, and will only be spending more time outside the older they get. The indoor enclosure will be for one tortoise.

I found the PVC (here, it's sold under the brand name Forex), and a professional to cut it to size.
As the enclosure will be over 6 feet long, we'll brace the top with PVC cross pieces.

It will be located in a cellar (with natural light). More about the cellar to follow (at some point).

Questions re your design:
1. You've no air circulation included. Our terrarium has a mesh strip at the front and second on the top. I've always assumed that heated air escapes via the top strip, which draws air in via the lower, front strip. No need for anything like this in your design?
2. No fire hazard with heating, UV, lighting, and the PVC?
3. We're starting with one enclosure for one tortoise (so we can get right with the second enclosure all the things we got wrong with the first). If we build two, and mount them on a wood frame, do you think the two would stack one on top of the other, and so take up less floor space? (And if so, how much separation would you include between them?)
4. I've a choice between half-inch and three-quarter-inch PVC, with half-inch being cheaper of course. Is half-inch advisable/workable?

(And then I'll have some more questions about light, heat, basking, and eternal peace planet-wide...)

Best regards - 
Dave


----------



## Sterant

Dave CH said:


> That's good. I think I need saving:
> So, we have two five year old Hermann's and it's long been time to give them a bigger home. And we've decided to build your design. A little smaller (6 and half by 3 and quarter foot), as it is only for safety at night and for the post- and pre-hibernation periods when the weather is bad. These tortoises spend most of their year outside, and will only be spending more time outside the older they get. The indoor enclosure will be for one tortoise.
> 
> I found the PVC (here, it's sold under the brand name Forex), and a professional to cut it to size.
> As the enclosure will be over 6 feet long, we'll brace the top with PVC cross pieces.
> 
> It will be located in a cellar (with natural light). More about the cellar to follow (at some point).
> 
> Questions re your design:
> 1. You've no air circulation included. Our terrarium has a mesh strip at the front and second on the top. I've always assumed that heated air escapes via the top strip, which draws air in via the lower, front strip. No need for anything like this in your design?
> 2. No fire hazard with heating, UV, lighting, and the PVC?
> 3. We're starting with one enclosure for one tortoise (so we can get right with the second enclosure all the things we got wrong with the first). If we build two, and mount them on a wood frame, do you think the two would stack one on top of the other, and so take up less floor space? (And if so, how much separation would you include between them?)
> 4. I've a choice between half-inch and three-quarter-inch PVC, with half-inch being cheaper of course. Is half-inch advisable/workable?
> 
> (And then I'll have some more questions about light, heat, basking, and eternal peace planet-wide...)
> 
> Best regards -
> Dave


Hi Dave
1) - right - no air circulation needed - in a closed chamber, circulation of outside air defeats the purpose and vents the humidity and heat. My design is not air tight - there are gaps in the door glass that let plenty of air in....but not enough to disallow good humidity and temperature control.
2) - I am not a UL engineer, and I don't run any from of heating or basking bulbs in mine - just a fluorescent fixture - but I know plenty of people who do - and many companies sell PVC enclosures with integral light fixtures. I don't know of any fires.
3) - I have stacked them before right on top of one another with no issues. Just make sure you build them properly, get good glue joints. You can always add a vertical support if you are concerned.
4) I have always used 1/2" and its fine. 3/4" might be even better but is a lot heavier. I don;t see an issue either way.

Dan


----------



## Dave CH

Sterant said:


> Hi Dave
> 1) - right - no air circulation needed - in a closed chamber, circulation of outside air defeats the purpose and vents the humidity and heat. My design is not air tight - there are gaps in the door glass that let plenty of air in....but not enough to disallow good humidity and temperature control.
> 2) - I am not a UL engineer, and I don't run any from of heating or basking bulbs in mine - just a fluorescent fixture - but I know plenty of people who do - and many companies sell PVC enclosures with integral light fixtures. I don't know of any fires.
> 3) - I have stacked them before right on top of one another with no issues. Just make sure you build them properly, get good glue joints. You can always add a vertical support if you are concerned.
> 4) I have always used 1/2" and its fine. 3/4" might be even better but is a lot heavier. I don;t see an issue either way.
> 
> Dan


Thanks Dan, that's excellent.

I note that you're not running heating or basking. Do you mind if, anyway, I ask you one or two heating and UV-B questions? I'm guessing that this isn't the only enclosure you've ever run.

Dave


----------



## Sterant

Dave CH said:


> Thanks Dan, that's excellent.
> 
> I note that you're not running heating or basking. Do you mind if, anyway, I ask you one or two heating and UV-B questions? I'm guessing that this isn't the only enclosure you've ever run.
> 
> Dave


sure


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## Dave CH

Sterant said:


> sure


Thanks again.

So, the enclosure will be in a cellar; half the walls are underground, half above, so there is some natural light.
The cellar is dry; ambient temperature is currently around 11 to 12 Celsius.

I put a half square meter terrarium in there yesterday and ran a 100W ceramic heating bulb and a 50W basking spot.
The temperature under the basking spot hovered around 31 to 34 Celsius. I've space to lower the basking spot; so I could raise that temperature if necessary.
But I struggled to keep the temperature at the other end of the terrarium stable. It fluctuated (over a nine-hour period) between 19.3 and 23.6 Celsius. During that time, the terrarium was in sunlight, then in shade. The shade dropped the ambient temperature in the tank.

I guess the ceramic heater was working flat out because even if I asked it to heat to 25 Celsius (later in the day), it couldn't manage more than around 19 degrees.

I can lay my hands on a 150 ceramic heating bulb, but I'm still wondering whether, with the cellar at, say, 11 or 12 Celsius, I can heat a 2 square meter enclosure (so, four times the footprint (I'm kind of hoping I can go with a little less than 2 foot in height)) to a relatively stable 22 Celsius.

Or does the PVC insulate and hold heat better than glass?

(Nearly done with the questions...)

Dave


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## Yvonne G

Dave CH said:


> Thanks again.
> 
> So, the enclosure will be in a cellar; half the walls are underground, half above, so there is some natural light.
> The cellar is dry; ambient temperature is currently around 11 to 12 Celsius.
> 
> I put a half square meter terrarium in there yesterday and ran a 100W ceramic heating bulb and a 50W basking spot.
> The temperature under the basking spot hovered around 31 to 34 Celsius. I've space to lower the basking spot; so I could raise that temperature if necessary.
> But I struggled to keep the temperature at the other end of the terrarium stable. It fluctuated (over a nine-hour period) between 19.3 and 23.6 Celsius. During that time, the terrarium was in sunlight, then in shade. The shade dropped the ambient temperature in the tank.
> 
> I guess the ceramic heater was working flat out because even if I asked it to heat to 25 Celsius (later in the day), it couldn't manage more than around 19 degrees.
> 
> I can lay my hands on a 150 ceramic heating bulb, but I'm still wondering whether, with the cellar at, say, 11 or 12 Celsius, I can heat a 2 square meter enclosure (so, four times the footprint (I'm kind of hoping I can go with a little less than 2 foot in height)) to a relatively stable 22 Celsius.
> 
> Or does the PVC insulate and hold heat better than glass?
> 
> (Nearly done with the questions...)
> 
> Dave


Was your aquarium covered? The whole thing being enclosed makes all the difference in t;he world.


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## Dave CH

Yvonne G said:


> Was your aquarium covered? The whole thing being enclosed makes all the difference in t;he world.


It was Yvonne, yes. Shop bought; pretty tight fitting front (glass) doors. 

No vents to speak of, other than the mesh air-circulation strips, the width of the terrarium.

Dave


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## PA2019

@Dave CH I have built 10+ PVC tanks based on @Sterant designs. We are incredibly lucky he shared the designs and building explanations! Thought I would chime in as I use heating elements in the PVC tanks.

I built a large 8' x 3' x 24" PVC tank, and actually made a 2nd story, which added another 8 sq ft! I used one central basking area, LED light bars, and a 48" UVB strip to maintain the tank during the day, and 2, 100 watt CHE bulbs to maintain an 80 degree minimum in the evening/night. To ensure the CHE's and basking bulb did not cause a fire I employed 2 safety measures.

First, I used fixtures that did not actually touch the PVC.

Here is a link to what I used. They extend down from the ceiling, mitigating a fire risk.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YWPPLMH/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

Second, I bought heat reflective tape and covered the areas overlying the basking and CHE fixtures on the roof. Think of it as insulation against any heat that radiates upwards. You can get the tape from any Lowes/Home Depot.

One thing to mention regarding ambient heat. I purchased 2 computer fans and attached them in the corners of the tank, and directed their flow in the general direction of the CHE's. The gentle air movement helped in two major ways. First, it circulated the warmed air around, lessening cold spots in the tank, and second it reduced the risk of potential shell burning as the CHE heat was never limited to one small area.

Here is the link to my build thread:






8’ x 3’ x 2’ two story XPVC build


Really excited to get started on my second XPVC build. Mostly gathering materials today.




tortoiseforum.org





Anyways, hope that helps regarding the heating/safety questions!


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## dd33

PA2019 said:


> First, I used fixtures that did not actually touch the PVC.
> 
> Here is a link to what I used. They extend down from the ceiling, mitigating a fire risk.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YWPPLMH/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20


I was just looking at these the other day. Did you find that they were too tall and positioned the CHE too close to the substrate in your 24" tall enclosure?


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## Mrs.Jennifer

For what it’s worth, I have a PVC enclosure for my Russian tortoise made by my father and husband (best birthday present EVER!). I have my basking flood, CHE and UV tube in fixtures hanging from chains. The cords are run through two 1.5” holes in the back of the enclosure. The CHE is on a thermostat. The basking flood and UV tube fixtures are on timers. I raise and lower the fixtures depending on what my temp gun and Solameter tell me. I use LED fixtures for ambient light.


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## Dave CH

Mrs.Jennifer said:


> For what it’s worth, I have a PVC enclosure for my Russian tortoise made by my father and husband (best birthday present EVER!). I have my basking flood, CHE and UV tube in fixtures hanging from chains. The cords are run through two 1.5” holes in the back of the enclosure. The CHE is on a thermostat. The basking flood and UV tube fixtures are on timers. I raise and lower the fixtures depending on what my temp gun and Solameter tell me. I use LED fixtures for ambient light.


Thanks @Mrs.Jennifer. I was thinking of having an adjustable level for basking.
Do you, maybe, have a photo of your chain setup?

Dave


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## Dave CH

PA2019 said:


> @Dave CH I have built 10+ PVC tanks based on @Sterant designs. We are incredibly lucky he shared the designs and building explanations! Thought I would chime in as I use heating elements in the PVC tanks.
> 
> I built a large 8' x 3' x 24" PVC tank, and actually made a 2nd story, which added another 8 sq ft! I used one central basking area, LED light bars, and a 48" UVB strip to maintain the tank during the day, and 2, 100 watt CHE bulbs to maintain an 80 degree minimum in the evening/night. To ensure the CHE's and basking bulb did not cause a fire I employed 2 safety measures.
> 
> First, I used fixtures that did not actually touch the PVC.
> 
> Here is a link to what I used. They extend down from the ceiling, mitigating a fire risk.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YWPPLMH/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
> 
> Second, I bought heat reflective tape and covered the areas overlying the basking and CHE fixtures on the roof. Think of it as insulation against any heat that radiates upwards. You can get the tape from any Lowes/Home Depot.
> 
> One thing to mention regarding ambient heat. I purchased 2 computer fans and attached them in the corners of the tank, and directed their flow in the general direction of the CHE's. The gentle air movement helped in two major ways. First, it circulated the warmed air around, lessening cold spots in the tank, and second it reduced the risk of potential shell burning as the CHE heat was never limited to one small area.
> 
> Here is the link to my build thread:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 8’ x 3’ x 2’ two story XPVC build
> 
> 
> Really excited to get started on my second XPVC build. Mostly gathering materials today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tortoiseforum.org
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, hope that helps regarding the heating/safety questions!


Thanks, @PA2019, for coming in.
Great news re fire (or, no fire).
And thanks for the link to the thread; very informative.

I think at this stage my main concern is the ambient temperature in the cellar: 11.5 Celsius. I can't see a way forward other than to build the tank and heat with two CHEs (100W) and assume that this will be enough. (If you're not heating at night, I guess your tank isn't in a room at 11 Celsius (52 degrees)).

I'm running a second test with the glass terrarium today. I've blocked the intake mesh and taped over the mesh in the roof. And it's currently heating up faster. Just waiting to see what it does when the sun comes around and the tank is in the shade.

I'm guessing too that the PVC will keep heat better than the glass terrarium. So perhaps I've no reason to worry. 

I guess I'm doing a lot of guessing...

As it looks like I've got a basic handle on heat and basking. The only questions left are on UVB (on which I've heard a lot of conflicting advice).

One more post to follow - 
Dave


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## Mrs.Jennifer

Dave CH said:


> Thanks @Mrs.Jennifer. I was thinking of having an adjustable level for basking.
> Do you, maybe, have a photo of your chain setup?
> 
> Dave


These are the chains I used:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5SQSS8/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

You can see them in use over on this other thread:






Another benefit of a PVC enclosure


My husband and father built a PVC enclosure/vivarium (with sliding tempered glass doors) last February for me--or I should say my 18 year old Russian tortoise. Prior to this he was in an open topped enclosure in my studio from mid September to May. During the cold Connecticut weather I had to...




www.tortoiseforum.org


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## Dave CH

Mrs.Jennifer said:


> These are the chains I used:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G5SQSS8/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
> 
> You can see them in use over on this other thread:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another benefit of a PVC enclosure
> 
> 
> My husband and father built a PVC enclosure/vivarium (with sliding tempered glass doors) last February for me--or I should say my 18 year old Russian tortoise. Prior to this he was in an open topped enclosure in my studio from mid September to May. During the cold Connecticut weather I had to...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.tortoiseforum.org


That simple. Of course.
Big, big thanks - 
Dave


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## Dave CH

Sooooo.... UV (and other fittings).

For our 0.5m2 enclosure, when in the house at around 18 Celsius (64) Fahrenheit, we have:
- A 100W CHE
- A 50W "daylight basking spot" in dome (Exo-terra) (this gives the correct temperature as per the relevant care sheet)
- A 25W (spiral) UVB bulb (Exo-terra)

We will now (or soon, hopefully) have a 2m2 (21.5 square foot) PVC enclosure, in the cellar at 11 or so Celsius (52 Fahrenheit) with
- *2 x* 100W CHE
- A 50W "daylight basking spot" in dome (Exo-terra)

But I'm thinking that our UVB setup is dated (and that you all know about a billion time more than I do about this).
I'd really appreciate advice on what UVB to fit in the PVC enclosure.

The tortoise (a 5-year-old Hermann's) spends early mornings and evenings and there. The rest of the time he's outside with access to sunlight. (I'm talking one tortoise here; there are two, but we'll be building two separate enclosures).

Of course, there's the post-hibernation period and the pre-hibernation period when he will spend more time in there because of the weather; and the same applies during the usual cold snap in May. But generally, spring through autumn means outside at 10:00 am and back inside at around 5:00 to 6:00 pm.

"The store" sold me the spiral UVB bulb I mention above.
"The store" told me, when I went back there, that it was a ripoff, and doesn't emit UVB (they still sell it though).
"The store" told me to only use mercury vapor UVB lamps.
I've read elsewhere not to use mercury vapor UVB lamps.

Anyone care to enlighten me? (Write slowly though, I'm British...)
Dave


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## Dave CH

A quick update on my "block-the-mesh" experiment of today: It worked. I can hold the (glass) terrarium at the required temperature when I block the input and output mesh. 
Seems like yesterday it was just pumping out warm air through the mesh strip in the roof, and sucking in colder air through the input.
I'm happy about that...

Dave


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## PA2019

dd33 said:


> I was just looking at these the other day. Did you find that they were too tall and positioned the CHE too close to the substrate in your 24" tall enclosure?



@dd33 Your question is tough to answer as it depends on a lot of factors.

First, what species are you housing in the tank? A high-domed radiata will have more shell burning risk vs a pancake. Second, how deep is the substrate layer? Are you planning on a 10-12" depth to allow for egg deposition or maintaining 4-6" substrate depth?

Like I mentioned, you can significantly limit the risk of shell burning/fire by placing a computer fan in the direction of the CHE. The fan drives the hot air laterally, dissipating the pinpoint heat that can cause shell burning/fire.

You can also lower the depth of the substrate around the CHE's easily to increase the contact distance 1-3" depending on how much of a divet you create.

Another option is to place an immovable object directly underneath the CHE, like a large stone/tile or even a metal mesh box, basically anything that blocks the area directly underneath the CHE from the tortoise, again negating the injury risk.

Personally, I like the fixtures quite a bit. They are safe, easy to apply/remove, the electrical cord does not get kinked, the cord components are fully insulated, and you do not have to mess with wiring the fixture yourself. I had mine connected to a temp probe so they turned on/off as needed.

There are several very experienced breeders on here who use radiant heat panels exclusively to maintain ambient temps in their tank. The panels have advantages, with zero chance of shell burning. The major disadvantage is cost. If you have a large tank, you would be looking at hundreds of $$ to buy large enough RHP's to maintain ambient temps in a large tank (based on @Sterant designs). Using a CHE and the above fixture will cost less than $30.


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## Dave CH

After a long journey (sometimes, everything in Switzerland seems complicated), I'm expecting to assemble two new terrariums on Sunday.
Will update with total costs once the job is done (in case there are other Swiss-based tortoise "owners" who might one day read this thread).

Dave


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## JohnL

Such a great write up, thanks Sterant! 

Just cause I am always curious about material prices when I see builds like this, as I’m sure many are, I figured I’d share the quote I just got. Here in San Francisco in July 2022, it’ll cost me $288+tax for a 4’x8’ sheet of 1/2” EPVC. That’s just the sheet, no cuts. 

Looks like I’m shopping around a little more before I start this build.... lol


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## Megatron's Mom

I think I will start looking for the sheets here in AR. Thank you so much for this thread and your plans.


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