# We should consider a UVB meter as mandatory



## ZEROPILOT (Jan 23, 2021)

In my opinion, we should suggest that every new keeper of tortoises or any other type of reptile needs to purchase a 6.5 or 6.5R UVB meter.
There are so many types of UVB lights now. that we have to just guess where to mount them or which ones suit our needs best.
I've seen the same MVB light. Same wattage. Same manufacturer have four times the UVB output of another.
I've seen a T8 tube put out virtually no UV after 4 months. And another still working well at one year.
I've seen a T5 5.0 hold steady at one level, then steeply decline seemingly overnight. And a T5 10.0 put out a reading of 8 at a foot away.
We all know that a coiled CFL bulb can blast out a tiny area of too much UVB. and nothing a few inches away.
It's all just guessing without a UVB meter.
They are all about $200.
Not cheap. But you're likely to have it for the rest of your life.
I have the 6.5R from JOSH'S FROGS and I highly reccomend it.
It has greatly simplified my keeping.


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## turtlesteve (Jan 23, 2021)

Seconded. I can’t believe it took me so long to buy one.


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## wellington (Jan 23, 2021)

You can suggest it but most won't buy it. That's a lot of money to put out for most members and that have one or two animal. Heck even the long time members with multiple tortoise and breeders of them has only gotten one in the last couple years.


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## Krista S (Jan 23, 2021)

ZEROPILOT said:


> In my opinion, we should suggest that every new keeper of tortoises or any other type of reptile needs to purchase a 6.5 or 6.5R UVB meter.
> There are so many types of UVB lights now. that we have to just guess where to mount them or which ones suit our needs best.
> I've seen the same MVB light. Same wattage. Same manufacturer have four times the UVB output of another.
> I've seen a T8 tube put out virtually no UV after 4 months. And another still working well at one year.
> ...


I completely agree with you. In Canada it’s more around the $300 mark, and although I cringed at the cost I considered it a necessity for my Hermann’s tortoise set up. I was without one for the first 6 months of his life and I just had too much worry over wondering what the UV output was...or wasn’t. It’s been a great investment that has given me peace of mind and helped me make the most optimal UV setup I can give my little guy who has to live indoors year round. Over time, it will pay for itself by me not having to replace UV bulbs just because of the 6 month rule I commonly hear about.


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## G-stars (Jan 23, 2021)

For those of us who keep our tortoises outdoors year round or even partially, the amount of UV they get naturally is more then sufficient. However, I do think it’s pretty much mandatory to have for those that keep their reptiles inside all the time.


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## wellington (Jan 23, 2021)

G-stars said:


> For those of us who keep our tortoises outdoors year round or even partially, the amount of UV they get naturally is more then sufficient. However, I do think it’s pretty much mandatory to have for those that keep their reptiles inside all the time.


This I can agree with. However on the other hand, i don't agree with keeping them inside year round. Everyone has a summer and should get their reptile out into it as I'm sure you would agree to that too.


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## Krista S (Jan 23, 2021)

wellington said:


> This I can agree with. However on the other hand, i don't agree with keeping them inside year round. Everyone has a summer and should get their reptile out into it as I'm sure you would agree to that too.


My tortoise can spend some time outside in the summers, but his primary enclosure is indoors. There’s only about a 2 month window where the weather is good enough here for him to be outside and maybe only half of the days in that span that are suitable and only for part of the day. Sask weather sucks. I do the best I can for my tortoise.


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## Yvonne G (Jan 23, 2021)

I wish I could afford one, but then I'd have to learn what the read-out's numbers mean and my brain is already too crowded. I'm not putting anymore stuff in.


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## wellington (Jan 23, 2021)

Krista S said:


> My tortoise can spend some time outside in the summers, but his primary enclosure is indoors. There’s only about a 2 month window where the weather is good enough here for him to be outside and maybe only half of the days in that span that are suitable and only for part of the day. Sask weather sucks. I do the best I can for my tortoise.


(My first post I deleted because I didnt pay attention to the thread I was on lol.)
To respond now to this post, you get him out when you can. That's all any of us living in the cold North can do.


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## Tom (Jan 23, 2021)

I completely agree.

Guessing at your UV levels with no meter is like guessing at your temperatures with no thermometer. Except its worse. At least with the temperatures you can kind of feel it with your hand and make a reasonable guess. Not so with UV.


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## ZEROPILOT (Jan 23, 2021)

wellington said:


> You can suggest it but most won't buy it. That's a lot of money to put out for most members and that have one or two animal. Heck even the long time members with multiple tortoise and breeders of them has only gotten one in the last couple years.


I've only had mine for little more than a year.


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## ZEROPILOT (Jan 23, 2021)

G-stars said:


> For those of us who keep our tortoises outdoors year round or even partially, the amount of UV they get naturally is more then sufficient. However, I do think it’s pretty much mandatory to have for those that keep their reptiles inside all the time.


My tortoises do live outside.
I got on the UV METER bandwagon after attempting to correctly keep Chameleons inside.
I spent/wasted more money on the wrong lamps and fixtures than what my meter cost me.


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## ZEROPILOT (Jan 23, 2021)

Yvonne G said:


> I wish I could afford one, but then I'd have to learn what the read-out's numbers mean and my brain is already too crowded. I'm not putting anymore stuff in.


It's got one button and an instant digital readout.


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## ZEROPILOT (Jan 23, 2021)

wellington said:


> You can suggest it but most won't buy it. That's a lot of money to put out for most members and that have one or two animal. Heck even the long time members with multiple tortoise and breeders of them has only gotten one in the last couple years.


It's not a lot of money at all if you compare the cost of buying all sorts of inefficient lighting. (I've spent hundreds) 
Throwing away perfectly good lighting just because it's 4-6 months old or in needing to see a vet for MBD treatment.
It starts to look like a money saver. And its certainly a worthy investment.


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## ZEROPILOT (Jan 23, 2021)

Krista S said:


> My tortoise can spend some time outside in the summers, but his primary enclosure is indoors. There’s only about a 2 month window where the weather is good enough here for him to be outside and maybe only half of the days in that span that are suitable and only for part of the day. Sask weather sucks. I do the best I can for my tortoise.


I give plenty of the credit for my success with Redfoot to my location alone.
Those of you that keep tortoises in less than ideal areas of the world are to be commended for their dedication.


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## wellington (Jan 23, 2021)

ZEROPILOT said:


> My tortoises do live outside.
> I got on the UV METER bandwagon after attempting to correctly keep Chameleons inside.
> I spent/wasted more money on the wrong lamps and fixtures than what my meter cost me.


Why don't you keep your chameleons outside? I kept mine outside in the summer months, in a cage, with heat for night time if needed.


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## wellington (Jan 23, 2021)

ZEROPILOT said:


> It's not a lot of money at all if you compare the cost of buying all sorts of inefficient lighting. (I've spent hundreds)
> Throwing away perfectly good lighting just because it's 4-6 months old or in needing to see a vet for MBD treatment.
> It starts to look like a money saver. And its certainly a worthy investment.


It would be a waste for me. I have never thrown a working bulb away, I use them for light purposes for the tortoises shed or Depending on the kind, would use them on a fish tank. Never had mbd although I have only had a total of 7 tortoises and a couple small clutches, but no where near the months of sun you have in florida. If I lived in the southern states I wouldn't even use a uvb bulb. 
I think it's right for some, I think it's a big waste for most. I don't mind spending the money, it's not a problem. I have a problem wasting money and I think for most people, with few tortoises and not breeding, it's a waste.


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## Yvonne G (Jan 23, 2021)

ZEROPILOT said:


> It's got one button and an instant digital readout.


No, not how to use it, how to understand the read out.


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## ZEROPILOT (Jan 23, 2021)

wellington said:


> Why don't you keep your chameleons outside? I kept mine outside in the summer months, in a cage, with heat for night time if needed.


Too much heat outside most of the year and a neighborhood full of friggin feral cats


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## ZEROPILOT (Jan 23, 2021)

Yvonne G said:


> No, not how to use it, how to understand the read out.


Well, in the case of my Chameleons, the ideal level is 3.0
So the branch they stay on most of the time fall into the 2.8 to 3.2 range.
The gauge only shows digits. Like a calculator.


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## wellington (Jan 24, 2021)

ZEROPILOT said:


> Too much heat outside most of the year and a neighborhood full of friggin feral cats


Have you joined the chameleonforum.com
Several south Floridians that keep their veiled and Panthers outside year round with fans and misters for the real hot days, above 90 or added heat to the outside enclosure for the cold nights or they bring them inside. That's where my info came from. 
As for the cats, build the enclosure like chicken keepers build their chicken run. Hardware cloth with a skirt at ground level that goes around the outside perimeter and either gets buried or mine just lays on top and I used anchors to attach to ground. So far have kept out 3 cats, fox, and a coon. The mice are the only thing that can still get thru but they are only after the food.


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## elainelw (Jan 24, 2021)

What would be the ideal reading for a Russian tortoise?


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## COmtnLady (Jan 24, 2021)

ZEROPILOT said:


> MBD


I'm sorry, I don't know what " MBD " means. Please explain.


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## sue white (Jan 24, 2021)

Sounds pretty interesting but Where would you find the info on each animals need of UV so you could use this ?


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## Yvonne G (Jan 24, 2021)

COmtnLady said:


> I'm sorry, I don't know what " MBD " means. Please explain.


metabolic bone disease (in cases like this, Google is your friend)


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## Yvonne G (Jan 24, 2021)

sue white said:


> Sounds pretty interesting but Where would you find the info on each animals need of UV so you could use this ?


See? THAT'S what I meant about not adding anymore extraneous information to my already crowded brain!!


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## ZEROPILOT (Jan 25, 2021)

wellington said:


> Have you joined the chameleonforum.com
> Several south Floridians that keep their veiled and Panthers outside year round with fans and misters for the real hot days, above 90 or added heat to the outside enclosure for the cold nights or they bring them inside. That's where my info came from.
> As for the cats, build the enclosure like chicken keepers build their chicken run. Hardware cloth with a skirt at ground level that goes around the outside perimeter and either gets buried or mine just lays on top and I used anchors to attach to ground. So far have kept out 3 cats, fox, and a coon. The mice are the only thing that can still get thru but they are only after the food.


I AM a member.
I guess I'm being overly cautious.
There is a pretty large feral population of Chameleons just south of me and they've been there about 30 years.


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## ZEROPILOT (Jan 25, 2021)

sue white said:


> Sounds pretty interesting but Where would you find the info on each animals need of UV so you could use this ?


Google
Or different forums


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## ZEROPILOT (Jan 25, 2021)

COmtnLady said:


> I'm sorry, I don't know what " MBD " means. Please explain.


Metabolic Bone Disease


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## wellington (Jan 25, 2021)

ZEROPILOT said:


> I AM a member.
> I guess I'm being overly cautious.
> There is a pretty large feral population of Chameleons just south of me and they've been there about 30 years.


Understand the cautiousness. I would so take advantage though of the free uvb, sun, heat and I love housing pets like reptiles outside when possible.


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## ZEROPILOT (Jan 25, 2021)

What would be the ideal reading for a Russian tortoise?
[/QUOTE]




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Google Image Result for https://www.solarmeter.com.au/images/6.5RFergusonZone.png






images.app.goo.gl




I dont see Russian on the list.
But I believe its 3-4.
Maybe someone can confirm or correct me.


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## Mrs.Jennifer (Jan 27, 2021)

wellington said:


> You can suggest it but most won't buy it. That's a lot of money to put out for most members and that have one or two animal. Heck even the long time members with multiple tortoise and breeders of them has only gotten one in the last couple years.


Does anyone know why UVB meters that measure artificial UVB are so expensive? I ( pardon my stupidity) bought a UV meter inexpensively, only to find it didn’t measure artificial UVB. I know—stupid, stupid, stupid...??‍


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## wellington (Jan 27, 2021)

Mrs.Jennifer said:


> Does anyone know why UVB meters that measure artificial UVB are so expensive? I ( pardon my stupidity) bought a UV meter inexpensively, only to find it didn’t measure artificial UVB. I know—stupid, stupid, stupid...??‍


I have no idea.
Not stupid at all. Who would have thunk it. When you think you're getting a good deal, that's all you can think of, the good deal. Not what you should be thinking of, like reading all it really does.


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## turtlesteve (Jan 27, 2021)

Mrs.Jennifer said:


> Does anyone know why UVB meters that measure artificial UVB are so expensive? I ( pardon my stupidity) bought a UV meter inexpensively, only to find it didn’t measure artificial UVB. I know—stupid, stupid, stupid...??‍



If a sensor is measuring UVB, it has to count all light that corresponds to a specific wavelength region, and ignore anything that is not UVB (UVC or UVA). The cheap way to do this is with a band-pass filter.

If you want to be more accurate, or calculate UV index for an arbitrary light source, things get more complicated. The sensor has to measure each wavelength separately (this is called a spectrometer) and then count only the values corresponding to the proper wavelengths. For UV index, the values would be weighted first. This costs at least an order of magnitude more money.

The solarmeters are in the first category. It's an optical sensor, likely with a band-pass filter put in place. The filter allows only the desired UV spectrum to pass through. This isn't as good as using a spectrometer because filters won't have a sharp cutoff. In all cases the devices are then likely adjusting the measured value to "calibrate" it to a standard spectrum (probably sunlight). 

The reason they cost so much......probably because it's a low sales volume product, honestly. I'd guess almost all the cost is in the product design, so the price per unit is inversely related to how many of them you can sell.

Steve


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## Markw84 (Jan 28, 2021)

Mrs.Jennifer said:


> Does anyone know why UVB meters that measure artificial UVB are so expensive? I ( pardon my stupidity) bought a UV meter inexpensively, only to find it didn’t measure artificial UVB. I know—stupid, stupid, stupid...??‍


The price of a SolarMeter is not simply supply or marketing. In talking with their designers I was amazed at how much research and trial and error in producing reliable algorithms was involved in developing these meters. The issues are compounded by making it so it gives useful readings for all the various types of fixtures (fluorescent, MVB, HID, etc) as well as sunlight. Each require different weightings considered as the ratios of various wavelengths are different for each one. Yet the only way a meter is truly useful, is if we can easily read something that is reading a very specific wavelength of light in a range of only 5-6nm. The sensor and filter alone that must be used to get reliable readings costs them (Solarmeter) well over $100 wholesale from the manufacturer.


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## TeamZissou (Jan 28, 2021)

ZEROPILOT said:


> What would be the ideal reading for a Russian tortoise?







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Google Image Result for https://www.solarmeter.com.au/images/6.5RFergusonZone.png






images.app.goo.gl




I dont see Russian on the list.
But I believe its 3-4.
Maybe someone can confirm or correct me.
[/QUOTE]

Yes, the paper by Frances Baines lists a value of 3 for Russians. 

Though, I think people are finding that the zones listed aren't necessarily optimal for captive animals. For babies especially, those UV levels are probably too high given that the overall brightness of the enclosure lighting is orders of magnitude lower than sunlight that produces the same UVI. The babies are not induced to hide by excessively bright light, and in turn get blanketed by much higher UV levels for hours and hours per day. This can lead to probable UV-induced pyramiding discussed by @Markw84, @turtlesteve, and shown to be especially important by @Sterant in Chersina.

I feel like in the end, we'll have separate recommended UVI levels and duration of UV exposure for hatchlings and adults of each species. I view the Ferguson zones that are published as more of an 'upper limit' rather than a constant value that needs to be maintained for many hours.

The Solarmeter is great for this and dialing in the height on a bulb, as well as knowing whether or not you got a bad bulb that is putting out super high levels of UV.


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## Mrs.Jennifer (Jan 28, 2021)

Markw84 said:


> The price of a SolarMeter is not simply supply or marketing. In talking with their designers I was amazed at how much research and trial and error in producing reliable algorithms was involved in developing these meters. The issues are compounded by making it so it gives useful readings for all the various types of fixtures (fluorescent, MVB, HID, etc) as well as sunlight. Each require different weightings considered as the ratios of various wavelengths are different for each one. Yet the only way a meter is truly useful, is if we can easily read something that is reading a very specific wavelength of light in a range of only 5-6nm. The sensor and filter alone that must be used to get reliable readings costs them (Solarmeter) well over $100 wholesale from the manufacturer.


Thanks for the explanation. I’m always trying to learn and understand more. This really helps.


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## Mrs.Jennifer (Jan 28, 2021)

wellington said:


> I have no idea.
> Not stupid at all. Who would have thunk it. When you think you're getting a good deal, that's all you can think of, the good deal. Not what you should be thinking of, like reading all it really does.


The problem was it didn’t say that it didn’t measure artificial UV, and I didn’t realize that I needed one specific to artificial UV. It wasn‘t about getting a good deal. I just didn’t know what I needed.


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## chadk (Apr 2, 2021)

There is a great facebook page called "reptile lighting" that covers a lot of this with links to best lights and UVB for the various types of reptiles.

That said, I often wonder if we are going about this backwards. Like saying we know water is good for you, but then provide a fire house to drink from or a tiny drip. What is the ideal? The main (but not ONLY) reason for the UVB is to prevent MDB. I wonder if there is a blood test or something that could be done to check the health of the reptile in regards to MDB? 

On a similar line of questioning, I see recommendations for UVB bulbs for snakes for example, that should be as long or at least 3/4 as long as the snake. And then also for redfoots and leopard geckos who don't do a lot of direct bright light basking, but rather filtered or cryptic basking, where the UVB would only be touching 5 to 10 percent of the body.

Folks seem to think that the entire animal should be exposed to the UVB for the max benefits. But yet in the wild, a lot of these animals never fully bask. So I'd love to see some data on how much exposure is required for the most optimal benefits. It probably exists, but I haven't seen the studies myself yet.

And finally, where does Calcium with vit D3 come in to play? How much better is it to only provide UVB vs only to provide Cal +D3? I've raised reptiles with about 3 months of sun, and then indoors with just calc + D3 and never have had an issue with MDB. My concern is that if a reptile owner only does UVB, but gets the wrong bulb, wrong distance to basking spot, the animal never comes close enough, the bulb is defective, etc - and they aren't also offering at least occasional D3 powder, then they are heading for MDB. I've heard of this happening where someone thought they were doing it right with UVB tubes, but their reptile still got MDB. I think Arcadia recommends Calc+D3 on a recurring basis along with their UVB lights. I know there is some concern about overdosing on D3, but I've heard that is very hard to do, especially if you only use it once a week or so.


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## ZEROPILOT (Apr 2, 2021)

chadk said:


> There is a great facebook page called "reptile lighting" that covers a lot of this with links to best lights and UVB for the various types of reptiles.
> 
> That said, I often wonder if we are going about this backwards. Like saying we know water is good for you, but then provide a fire house to drink from or a tiny drip. What is the ideal? The main (but not ONLY) reason for the UVB is to prevent MDB. I wonder if there is a blood test or something that could be done to check the health of the reptile in regards to MDB?
> 
> ...


There is indeed a blood test for checking both calcium and phosphorus levels in a REPTILES blood as a determination of pre MBD or an existing MBD condition.
That and a few Xrays of the bone structure are important. Because as MBD does damage, the damage is not reversible.
This is an Xray of one of my Chameleons sold to me with pretty advanced MBD.
The twisted bones are now solid. The MBD stopped. But the damage done is permanent.
It's very painful and most often ends in death.
On the other end of the spectrum are UVB burns and over calcification of the bones and joints. It's far less common.
A tortoise with MBD will be far less likely to outwardly show early signs. Simply because most of the body is hidden by the shell.
Once it is unable to walk, dragging it's legs, etc. The prognosis is already too late.
My animals that do not get any actual sunlight have T5 UVB tubes and are given calcium supplements every day and +D3 once a week. (These are all Chameleons)
My outdoors animals receive no supplemental products except an occasional cuttlebone.
(They are all Redfoot)
I agree that different species need very different levels of UVB. And that some require far less to process D3. Like my Redfoot torts as compared to my Chameleons.
But they both live at a level very near 3.0 for 12 hours a day.


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## MEEJogja (Apr 4, 2021)

I have a forest species who are always outside, so this isn't my area of expertise, but I went to check if a uvb meter is any cheaper here (they're not) and came across these. A potential better than nothing solution for those on a budget, or a potentially dangerous waste of time?


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## TeamZissou (Apr 4, 2021)

MEEJogja said:


> I have a forest species who are always outside, so this isn't my area of expertise, but I went to check if a uvb meter is any cheaper here (they're not) and came across these. A potential better than nothing solution for those on a budget, or a potentially dangerous waste of time?



I'd say it's probably not necessary. Meters are needed more for dialing in the height of UVB lamps in indoor enclosures. In your case, just make sure to provide plenty of shade spots/hiding places and your tortoises should be fine. They can move in and out of the sunlight as they please.


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## MEEJogja (Apr 4, 2021)

TeamZissou said:


> I'd say it's probably not necessary. Meters are needed more for dialing in the height of UVB lamps in indoor enclosures. In your case, just make sure to provide plenty of shade spots/hiding places and your tortoises should be fine. They can move in and out of the sunlight as they please.



Agreed,  not useful for me, but I just wanted to share that product in case it would be of help to a new indoor keeper. I have actually been advertised one of these this morning that at least claims to measure lamp uvb, and is available in the US, albeit at 16x the price of the generic Chinese one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TJHQ2JR/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20


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## TeamZissou (Apr 5, 2021)

MEEJogja said:


> Agreed,  not useful for me, but I just wanted to share that product in case it would be of help to a new indoor keeper. I have actually been advertised one of these this morning that at least claims to measure lamp uvb, and is available in the US, albeit at 16x the price of the generic Chinese one:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TJHQ2JR/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20



These cards are used to tell if a mercury vapor or other bulb has completely lost it's ability to output UVB. It's a binary measurement; even if you check your lamp with the card and you get that it's outputting UV light, it could still be at an intensity that is way too high for tortoises based on the lamp height etc. Plus, it does not tell you anything about the UV Index, which is what we care about for vitamin D3 production. Therefore, it's misleading and potentially harmful. I would avoid using these cards and go for the Solarmeter.


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## Sterant (Apr 5, 2021)

ZEROPILOT said:


> In my opinion, we should suggest that every new keeper of tortoises or any other type of reptile needs to purchase a 6.5 or 6.5R UVB meter.
> There are so many types of UVB lights now. that we have to just guess where to mount them or which ones suit our needs best.
> I've seen the same MVB light. Same wattage. Same manufacturer have four times the UVB output of another.
> I've seen a T8 tube put out virtually no UV after 4 months. And another still working well at one year.
> ...


I totally agree. If you run UVB bulbs indoors you need one of these. The money you spend buying the meter will be save plus some since you will see that these bulbs can last for many years. The display is very easy to red (just a number). I feel this same way about infrared heat guns.


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## jsheffield (Apr 14, 2021)

I finally bit the bullet and dropped the cash for a UV-meter.

I was pleasantly surprised to find that - BY LUCK & GUESSWORK - the uv setups I'd been running in my various enclosures were providing essentially what the tortoises need.

I'm going to be adjusting all of them a bit in the coming weeks, minor stuff, but "aim small, miss small".

Once I've got things where I'd like them, I'm going to check, and track, the bulbs monthly to see how they perform over time... I'm running a mix of MVB and fluorescent bulbs, so it should be interesting to watch the changes over time.

Thanks again, TFO!

Jamie


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## ZEROPILOT (Apr 15, 2021)

jsheffield said:


> View attachment 323204
> 
> 
> I finally bit the bullet and dropped the cash for a UV-meter.
> ...


Yep.
You're going to be using it a lot in the days to follow.
I started testing every uvb device I own and even different spots in my yard at different times of the day.
It's nice to finally be sure that you are providing what your animals need.


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## jsheffield (Dec 29, 2021)

Given the recent up-tick n threads on UV, I wanted to bump this excellent thread...

Any talk about indoor UV lighting that doesn't include monitoring actual output, both initially (to get the correct initial exposure/height) and over time (to insure they're still working) seems a little silly.

Getting a good UV meter is expensive but supremely worth it, IMHO.

Jamie


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## Tom (Dec 29, 2021)

jsheffield said:


> Given the recent up-tick n threads on UV, I wanted to bump this excellent thread...
> 
> Any talk about UV lighting that doesn't include monitoring actual output, both initially (to get the correct initial exposure/height) and over time (to insure they're still working) seems a little silly.
> 
> ...


I agree 100%.

I would add that some of my UV bulbs are still going strong after 3+ years of continual use. If I had been replacing those bulbs every 6 months, I would have spent several hundred dollars by now, much more than the cost of the meter.

$250 just doesn't seem like a lot of money to me to be sure someone's beloved tortoise is getting the correct amount of UV. It would cost WAY more that $250 for a vet to treat photokeratitis or MDB if the UV level was too high, or too low.

Thanks for bumping this thread up.


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## Mrs.Jennifer (Dec 29, 2021)

jsheffield said:


> Given the recent up-tick n threads on UV, I wanted to bump this excellent thread...
> 
> Any talk about indoor UV lighting that doesn't include monitoring actual output, both initially (to get the correct initial exposure/height) and over time (to insure they're still working) seems a little silly.
> 
> ...


And this is why my husband is the BEST! He bought me a Solarmeter for Christmas!?


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