New Stack of Animal Plastics CLosed Chambers

Ghazan

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Did you guys have left over screws from your AP cages? I have about 5 screws and swear I filled all the holes...
 

Tom

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Did you guys have left over screws from your AP cages? I have about 5 screws and swear I filled all the holes...
Yes. I had 5 per cage, so a whole bunch for me. How fantastic is it that they send that many extras? They really are a top notch company. They pay attention to the little details that really make a difference.
 

Erik Elvis

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Do you think an Arcadia 12% at 20 or so inches would be ok to leave on all day? Or do you still recommend it being on only 4-5 hrs a day?
 

Yvonne G

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People: Please remember that this is Tom's thread about HIS new closed chambers. If you have your own closed chambers to talk about, start your own thread. Questions for Tom here in this thread are perfectly fine.
 

Yvonne G

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AKA: Tom's baby emporium.

@GStars asked for a pic on my new baby raising enclosures the other day. I only had a partial, but I took a fuller one today.

Each cage is 96x30 and divided in the middle into two 48x30 cages for starting babies. The colored tape on each upper right corner shows the number of babies in each enclosure and also corresponds to the soaking tubs that rest on top of the cages. I've got stars on top, sulcatas in the middle and SA leopards on the bottom.
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They've made a great product. I love how they put an inner plastic lip (?) inside the glass doors to hold more substrate. Interesting to watch your closed chamber evolution.
 
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Tom

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People: Please remember that this is Tom's thread about HIS new closed chambers. If you have your own closed chambers to talk about, start your own thread. Questions for Tom here in this thread are perfectly fine.
Thank you for looking out for my thread, but I invite everyone to talk about their own experiences with AP cages here too. I am enjoying reading their thoughts and experiences with these great cages, and want to continue promoting a good product and sharing insights.
 

SteveW

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I am thinking about a T65 (96x30x18) as a hatchling leopard home for 1-2 years and then a forever home for a star. (Both would have outside space too, of course). Does this sound doable or should I go bigger?
 

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Just put an order In For a T70. Still not sure what I want to do for the lighting. But she said it’s ok to put the order in now and work on the lighting as we wait for it to be built. They’re estimating 10-
 

crimson_lotus

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Do you think the largest size would be suitable for a 10 inch redfoot? I seriously need to get a new enclosure.

Tried emailing them maybe a month ago but never heard anything back. Guess I have to call.
 

Tom

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I am thinking about a T65 (96x30x18) as a hatchling leopard home for 1-2 years and then a forever home for a star. (Both would have outside space too, of course). Does this sound doable or should I go bigger?
I think it will suit your purposes very well.
 

Tom

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Do you think the largest size would be suitable for a 10 inch redfoot? I seriously need to get a new enclosure.

Tried emailing them maybe a month ago but never heard anything back. Guess I have to call.
4x8' is pretty borderline for a 10" tortoise, in my opinion. I'd like to see a tortoise that size in something bigger, but some people keep them in cages even smaller than that.
 

Erik Elvis

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In waiting for my AP cage to be built I think I’m talking myself into another one for my redfoots instead of building something new. They’re under 6” now so should get good use out of a 8ft long x 3 deep.

How do they stack tom? If you did not get a trench run for your cables on top of the cage would it effect that?

Also are the incandescent fixtures they install any way adjustable up and down?
 

Tom

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In waiting for my AP cage to be built I think I’m talking myself into another one for my redfoots instead of building something new. They’re under 6” now so should get good use out of a 8ft long x 3 deep.

How do they stack tom? If you did not get a trench run for your cables on top of the cage would it effect that?

Also are the incandescent fixtures they install any way adjustable up and down?

They line up perfectly and have little stainless steel pins that keep them aligned. If the cords are not in a channel, I run them along the ceiling and out the back.

Fixtures are not adjustable, but I bet something could be figured out. I just used different wattage bulbs, but a rheostat would work too.
 

Tom

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How do they stack tom? If you did not get a trench run for your cables on top of the cage would it effect that?
In the very first post on page one of this thread, you can see the cords for my LEDs running along the ceiling and going out through the vent area. I drilled a hole the same diameter as the cord on the edge of one of the vent slits, and passed the cord in that way. I had to wire these LED units myself, so it was easy to do it this way.
 

Erik Elvis

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Oh ok thanks Tom. I still can’t decide what to do for lighting/heating yet in the cage. Keep changing my mind. Might just run 2 34” flourescent tubes for UVB. 2 RHP’s and run some LED’s like you for ambient light and just run the flourescents 6-8 hours.

Edit; oh and prob an incandescent fixture for a hot spot.
 

Tom

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Oh ok thanks Tom. I still can’t decide what to do for lighting/heating yet in the cage. Keep changing my mind. Might just run 2 34” flourescent tubes for UVB. 2 RHP’s and run some LED’s like you for ambient light and just run the flourescents 6-8 hours.

Edit; oh and prob an incandescent fixture for a hot spot.
If the room temp is 80+ like my reptile room, the fluorescents might be to warm in there. If it is regular house temps of 65-75, you'll probably be fine. To be safe, I would try to find florescent fixtures with a remote ballast that can be placed outside the enclosure.
 

daniellenc

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@Tom for a redfoot should I add ventilation? I just ordered mine without but still have time to make adjustments. I am debating using two 60 watt CHE's or RHP. My room is always in the 70's but does get near 80 in the summer afternoons. In the winter it is low 70's. I am doing fluorescents for UVB and light all in one as LED's don't provide UVB to my knowledge. I worry with ventilation humidity will be very hard to maintain in the winter, but without too warm in the summer. I could always lower the temp on my thermostat to 80 instead of 85 where it is now to heat the whole cage with one CHE. Any advice on ventilation and the benefits of RHP over the two CHE's I have now is appreciated.
 

Erik Elvis

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If the room temp is 80+ like my reptile room, the fluorescents might be to warm in there. If it is regular house temps of 65-75, you'll probably be fine. To be safe, I would try to find florescent fixtures with a remote ballast that can be placed outside the enclosure.
Is the ballast what creates most of the heat? Todd from lightyourreptiles recommended his double bulb fixtures for closed chambers as they have a remote ballast
 
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katieandiggy

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The ballasts get really hot. Mine is a remote ballast and sometimes it’s really hot to touch. I use the Arcadia remote one, I’m in the U.K. I’m not sure if you can get the same thing.
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