Yes. I had 5 per cage, so a whole bunch for me. How fantastic is it that they send that many extras? They really are a top notch company. They pay attention to the little details that really make a difference.Did you guys have left over screws from your AP cages? I have about 5 screws and swear I filled all the holes...
AKA: Tom's baby emporium.
@GStars asked for a pic on my new baby raising enclosures the other day. I only had a partial, but I took a fuller one today.
Each cage is 96x30 and divided in the middle into two 48x30 cages for starting babies. The colored tape on each upper right corner shows the number of babies in each enclosure and also corresponds to the soaking tubs that rest on top of the cages. I've got stars on top, sulcatas in the middle and SA leopards on the bottom.
View attachment 236407
View attachment 236413
View attachment 236408
View attachment 236409
View attachment 236412
Thank you for looking out for my thread, but I invite everyone to talk about their own experiences with AP cages here too. I am enjoying reading their thoughts and experiences with these great cages, and want to continue promoting a good product and sharing insights.People: Please remember that this is Tom's thread about HIS new closed chambers. If you have your own closed chambers to talk about, start your own thread. Questions for Tom here in this thread are perfectly fine.
Just put an order In For a T70. Still not sure what I want to do for the lighting. But she said it’s ok to put the order in now and work on the lighting as we wait for it to be built. They’re estimating 10-
I think it will suit your purposes very well.I am thinking about a T65 (96x30x18) as a hatchling leopard home for 1-2 years and then a forever home for a star. (Both would have outside space too, of course). Does this sound doable or should I go bigger?
4x8' is pretty borderline for a 10" tortoise, in my opinion. I'd like to see a tortoise that size in something bigger, but some people keep them in cages even smaller than that.Do you think the largest size would be suitable for a 10 inch redfoot? I seriously need to get a new enclosure.
Tried emailing them maybe a month ago but never heard anything back. Guess I have to call.
In waiting for my AP cage to be built I think I’m talking myself into another one for my redfoots instead of building something new. They’re under 6” now so should get good use out of a 8ft long x 3 deep.
How do they stack tom? If you did not get a trench run for your cables on top of the cage would it effect that?
Also are the incandescent fixtures they install any way adjustable up and down?
In the very first post on page one of this thread, you can see the cords for my LEDs running along the ceiling and going out through the vent area. I drilled a hole the same diameter as the cord on the edge of one of the vent slits, and passed the cord in that way. I had to wire these LED units myself, so it was easy to do it this way.How do they stack tom? If you did not get a trench run for your cables on top of the cage would it effect that?
If the room temp is 80+ like my reptile room, the fluorescents might be to warm in there. If it is regular house temps of 65-75, you'll probably be fine. To be safe, I would try to find florescent fixtures with a remote ballast that can be placed outside the enclosure.Oh ok thanks Tom. I still can’t decide what to do for lighting/heating yet in the cage. Keep changing my mind. Might just run 2 34” flourescent tubes for UVB. 2 RHP’s and run some LED’s like you for ambient light and just run the flourescents 6-8 hours.
Edit; oh and prob an incandescent fixture for a hot spot.
Is the ballast what creates most of the heat? Todd from lightyourreptiles recommended his double bulb fixtures for closed chambers as they have a remote ballastIf the room temp is 80+ like my reptile room, the fluorescents might be to warm in there. If it is regular house temps of 65-75, you'll probably be fine. To be safe, I would try to find florescent fixtures with a remote ballast that can be placed outside the enclosure.