Extra heat

Hi.

Just wondering if anyone has used this as an extra heat source in a tortoise table? Instead of a CHE. Obviously for use with a thermostat and some kind of wire guard. Just asking before I make a decision! Want to get a more steady temp in my table now it's covered. I have a baby russian and live in Scotland - so it's getting a bit chilly.

I think a radiant heat panel would be much more effective.

I've no idea what that is but I'll Google it! Thanks.

@Tom could you maybe attach a pic as an example? Please. My table is 4.5ft by 2.5ft and has a plexiglass top.

Lights out as it's midnight here! But this is my table. The white lamp is an led for extra light.

I like this one here in the US: http://www.reptilebasics.com/80-watt-radiant-heat-panel

I'm sure there is something similar over there.

Rudy_the_tort said:

@Tom could you maybe attach a pic as an example? Please. My table is 4.5ft by 2.5ft and has a plexiglass top.

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Affix the fixture either at the top of side of enclosure:
http://www.reptilebasics.com/80-watt-radiant-heat-panel

Thank you, I'll source one! And 80 watt would do? If I use it with a thermostat and set it for 80f, I think that's what I want... right now it's only about 68f at the 'cool' end. Should that bring up the humidity also? Sorry for so many questions!

Rudy_the_tort said:

Thank you, I'll source one! And 80 watt would do? If I use it with a thermostat and set it for 80f, I think that's what I want... right now it's only about 68f at the 'cool' end. Should that bring up the humidity also? Sorry for so many questions!

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1. What is that white lamp fixture used for? Plexiglass and glass will filter out almost all UVB. Facing lighting fixtures directly downwards and not at an angle is also generally recommended to prevent unnecessary light shining directly into a tortoise's eyes.

The 80 watt heating panel would work for a closed chamber setup. Your currently setup still features a rather large opening that will allow a lot of heat and humidity to easily pass through. Consider patching the hole to only allow enough opening to allow your basking fixture to rest directly on top of it.

Russian tortoise humidity should be around 50-70%, the more the better. I suggest raising your cool side temperature to at least 75-70F. Lowering your basking lamp fixture while also using a lowered wattage can easily achieve this. I would also suggest changing to a lower wattage if you're using a mercury vapor bulb.

It's just a led for extra light but I will redirect it directly downward!

I think it is a mercury vapour bulb but can't remember the wattage. What type would you suggest?

I'll patch the hole. Thanks for the help!

My humidity is only about 55 to 60 so I know I need to change a few things!

Rudy_the_tort said:

It's just a led for extra light but I will redirect it directly downward!

I think it is a mercury vapour bulb but can't remember the wattage. What type would you suggest?

I'll patch the hole. Thanks for the help!

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Personally I am not a big fan of mercury vapor bulbs. Good, quality mercury vapor bulbs (such as Arcadia's) are quite costly when compared to the average price of a UV(B) florescent long-tubed bulb. The UV(B) tube-styled bulbs will also last twice as long as your average mercury vapor bulb.

For a 4.5 x 2.5 ft enclosure I would suggest a 2-3 ft double/dual T5 florescent grow light fixture and a incandescent flood bulb for basking. Make sure the dual fixture has separate plugs to power each bulb. Use a 6500k daylight tube, set it to 12-14 hours and a UV(B) tube and set that to 4 hours to get the most out of the more expensive tube. I tend to position my florescent fixtures closer to the feeding dish/stone. My preferred basking fixture position is not directly above the main hide but generally close to the side of it.

I'm not so sure a RHP would work in your tort table. . . unless you could find one with a small silhouette that could be mounted on a side wall.

Yeah I can't really find one here in UK suitable. Hmm I'll rethink things. I need to get a new uvb bulb, lower it and patch hole. Just not sure how to increase heat/humidity...

What my tortoise partner advised me to do with the RHP was to sit it on top of a couple bricks that are set on their side, making a cave. You can sort of see it here on the right side of the enclosure:



In my instance, I have found the the ballast from the fluorescent keeps the whole enclosure toasty warm, and when the light turns off in the evening, the heat controller tells the RHP to turn on, and it keeps the enclosure warm through the night.

That's a good idea! Is your rhp on a thermostat?

Rudy_the_tort said:

That's a good idea! Is your rhp on a thermostat?

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Yes. That cord hanging down in front of the cave is the sensor for the thermostat.

Thanks for all the help!

Tom said:

I like this one here in the US: http://www.reptilebasics.com/80-watt-radiant-heat-panel

I'm sure there is something similar over there.

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Would this be adequate for a 6’x3’ closed chamber enclosure. My CHE is not able to get the temperature up to 80F.

Tom said:

I like this one here in the US: http://www.reptilebasics.com/80-watt-radiant-heat-panel

I'm sure there is something similar over there.

Click to expand...

@Tom I just tried the link you provided and it says that they are out of stock. I found a Repti-Therm RHP that is 40 watts. Will that get a 6’x3’x3’ closed chamber up to 80F the CHE I have currently is struggling to get to 75F.