Enclosure Humidity

LeanneW · Jan 25, 2019

Hey fellow tortoise lovers!

Another tortoise owner newbie question! I will get the hang of this, please bear with me.

So I have read that tortoises need humidity, I didn't know this and when I found out I immediately changed Pebbles substrate to coir. previously had wooden bark.

Does the whole enclosure have to be humid or just one spot?
how humid does it need to be?
With it being humid does her light need to be on all day and night or is it okay with the 12 hours she currently has during the day?
She usually has 12 hours of a fluorescent bulb and 12 hours of basking spot.
her current humidity of her whole enclosure is around 80% with no lights on.

Pebble is in a vivarium, as its colder in my room and this way I can regulate the temps better.

Pebble is a 4 month old hermanns. I have had her since December.
She is doing well but I am panicking about her shell.
I am overly worried she will get pyramiding! probably new tortoise anxieties though I am sure

Hope this makes sense!
Thank you!

Maro2Bear · Jan 25, 2019

Greetings...

I’m hoping you have by chance located this most excellent care guide.

https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/sticky-hermanns-tortoise-care-sheet-updated.101410/

Here’s the bits you are asking about.

Lighting, Temperature, Humidity and Handling

Absolutely nothing beats natural sunlight especially when it comes to tortoises such as Hermann’s. These animals occur in “warm spots or islands” within their native range. In these places, sunlight is plentiful and strong thus providing the animals with adequate UVB. This is why it is so important to place the outdoor enclosure in the sunniest location of the yard. For indoor lighting, a 10.0 UVB emitting fluorescent bulb should be fixed across the top of the enclosure. A 100-150 watt basking light should also be placed at one end only to offer the tortoises a basking site of around 95F. Depending on the size of the enclosure, you may want to use more than one basking light to offer the tortoises multiple basking areas but be sure the occupants always have an area where they can escape the direct light and heat. They may however not use the basking area too frequently if they are newborns. Remember, they know they are vulnerable and instinct tells them to hide as much as possible. The tortoises should be subjected to 12-14 hours of light each day regardless of age. Humidity is crucial in properly housing Hermann’s tortoises long term. Dehydration is a real threat especially in artificial conditions. A humidity level of around 70% is needed and this can be achieved by offering the tortoises a proper substrate, a constant supply of fresh water and regular, light mistings with a spray bottle. T. hermanni of all ages ages will appreciate a “fake rain” through means of misting or spraying them down. They will walk with their bodies held high, extend their heads and necks into the “rain” and drink from little puddles or from the beads of water that form on the walls of the enclosure. Ambient room temperature should hover around 80-85F during the day and can be allowed to drop into the low 70s at night. T. hermanni are capable of withstanding much cooler nighttime temperatures but if they are very young, it’s wise to not let it drop that low just yet. Additional heat sources like heat pads or rocks are terrible for tortoises and should never be used. Another common misconception is when keepers panic and feel that their “babies” need additional heat at night. This is how heat rocks and pads end up being used and how tortoises can die from them. It’s a “no brainer” to know that the indoor set up should not be near a drafty area such as window or in a cold room. Do not pamper these animals, there is simply no need for it and overdoing things can actually cause harm. These are wild animals no matter how many times we produce them in captivity. They do not “like” or “love” us, and this is important for us as responsible keepers, to accept and understand this. They need little interference from us if set up correctly from the start. On another note, it should not go with out saying that Hermann’s tortoises, although shy in nature, can prove to be quite outgoing and responsive in captivity. They quickly associate their keepers as a source of food and lose there fear of us. Some will even allow a scratch on the top of the head. However, like all turtle and tortoise species, T. hermanni do not like to be handled. Handling a tortoise, an animal that is so close to ground by nature, only causes unnecessary stress and long term problems. Your tortoise should only be picked up when absolutely necessary especially when they are so small and young.

Good luck.....

Nookole · Feb 19, 2019

Also a newbie!

Maro2Bear said:
Greetings...

I’m hoping you have by chance located this most excellent care guide.

https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/sticky-hermanns-tortoise-care-sheet-updated.101410/

Here’s the bits you are asking about.

Lighting, Temperature, Humidity and Handling

Absolutely nothing beats natural sunlight especially when it comes to tortoises such as Hermann’s. These animals occur in “warm spots or islands” within their native range. In these places, sunlight is plentiful and strong thus providing the animals with adequate UVB. This is why it is so important to place the outdoor enclosure in the sunniest location of the yard. For indoor lighting, a 10.0 UVB emitting fluorescent bulb should be fixed across the top of the enclosure. A 100-150 watt basking light should also be placed at one end only to offer the tortoises a basking site of around 95F. Depending on the size of the enclosure, you may want to use more than one basking light to offer the tortoises multiple basking areas but be sure the occupants always have an area where they can escape the direct light and heat. They may however not use the basking area too frequently if they are newborns. Remember, they know they are vulnerable and instinct tells them to hide as much as possible. The tortoises should be subjected to 12-14 hours of light each day regardless of age. Humidity is crucial in properly housing Hermann’s tortoises long term. Dehydration is a real threat especially in artificial conditions. A humidity level of around 70% is needed and this can be achieved by offering the tortoises a proper substrate, a constant supply of fresh water and regular, light mistings with a spray bottle. T. hermanni of all ages ages will appreciate a “fake rain” through means of misting or spraying them down. They will walk with their bodies held high, extend their heads and necks into the “rain” and drink from little puddles or from the beads of water that form on the walls of the enclosure. Ambient room temperature should hover around 80-85F during the day and can be allowed to drop into the low 70s at night. T. hermanni are capable of withstanding much cooler nighttime temperatures but if they are very young, it’s wise to not let it drop that low just yet. Additional heat sources like heat pads or rocks are terrible for tortoises and should never be used. Another common misconception is when keepers panic and feel that their “babies” need additional heat at night. This is how heat rocks and pads end up being used and how tortoises can die from them. It’s a “no brainer” to know that the indoor set up should not be near a drafty area such as window or in a cold room. Do not pamper these animals, there is simply no need for it and overdoing things can actually cause harm. These are wild animals no matter how many times we produce them in captivity. They do not “like” or “love” us, and this is important for us as responsible keepers, to accept and understand this. They need little interference from us if set up correctly from the start. On another note, it should not go with out saying that Hermann’s tortoises, although shy in nature, can prove to be quite outgoing and responsive in captivity. They quickly associate their keepers as a source of food and lose there fear of us. Some will even allow a scratch on the top of the head. However, like all turtle and tortoise species, T. hermanni do not like to be handled. Handling a tortoise, an animal that is so close to ground by nature, only causes unnecessary stress and long term problems. Your tortoise should only be picked up when absolutely necessary especially when they are so small and young.

Good luck.....

Also a newbie! And wondering the same thing!

What is the best kinds of substrates (other than potting soil) to use in the enclosure to keep the tortoises hydrated? And I know it says 70% in that giant block of text there, but that's hard to conceptualize.

Also, how often do they need baths? I know when they're hatchlings, baths almost every day are good. But what about when they're 4 months old? When they're over a year? How does that work? What should the bathwater temp be? How often should the fake rain occur? These are the questions!

Also a newbie! And wondering the same thing!

What is the best kinds of substrates (other than potting soil) to use in the enclosure to keep the tortoises hydrated? And I know it says 70% in that giant block of text there, but that's hard to conceptualize.

Also, how often do they need baths? I know when they're hatchlings, baths almost every day are good. But what about when they're 4 months old? When they're over a year? How does that work? What should the bathwater temp be? How often should the fake rain occur? Should they have a dry hide AND a humid hide? These are the questions!

tinytortoise · Feb 20, 2019

For humidity,

Get a hygrometer, it's not as hard conceptualize when you're doing it and it reads <70% - it's too dry. Use a substrate, not just potting soil, but coco coir works well. Personally I use organic, non additive, top soil. You check your humidity frequently and then you will surely conceptualize how to keep it at >70%.

Soaks 3-7 times a week, as much as you have time for, you especially want to get the shell wet so it can soak up water. If you can't soak daily - it's imperative your humidity is above 70% always, and you need to mist frequently, even if it raises humidity higher, it'll dry out in no time. Generally, I water my substrate to create a baseline humidity, and mist daily to ensure that my tortoise can get moist as she she explores.

You don't need a dry hide, but multiple humid hides work.

Tom · Feb 20, 2019

LeanneW said:
Does the whole enclosure have to be humid or just one spot?
how humid does it need to be?
With it being humid does her light need to be on all day and night or is it okay with the 12 hours she currently has during the day?
She usually has 12 hours of a fluorescent bulb and 12 hours of basking spot.
her current humidity of her whole enclosure is around 80% with no lights on.

Ambient humidity of 50-70% in the whole enclosure should work well. This is only one part of the picture though. You also need deep damp substrate for them to dig into and a humid hide for them to go into when they feel like it. My preference is to use coco coir for babies. Make a deep layer and hand pack it down. Keep it damp by dumping water into it. How much water and how often varies tremendously from enclosure to enclosure. For older larger Testudo, I prefer to use fine grade orchid bark. I buy it in bulk from garden centers. I would not recommend any bought-in-a-bag soil because you can't know what composted yard waste it is made of. Could be something safe, or could be something poisonous or toxic.

The lights should turn off at night and the temp should drop into the 60's (Around 17-19C). Humidity will rise considerably when the lights switch off and things cool. This is fine and normal. Happens in the wild too.

Low humidity does cause pyramiding, but even in high humidity enclosures, you can still see pyramiding if the basking bulb is to hot or too close. Observe this carefully and go as low as you can with the wattage and proximity, while still maintaining the correct temperature. This is one of the advantages of using a Viv. You can use much lower wattage heating and lighting equipment because your heat and humidity is contained in your enclosure. The deep damp substrate and humid hide help to mitigate this damage. Daily soaks and shell spraying help too.

I typed this up for Russian tortoises, but it applies to other Testudo too.
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

Hope this helps. Questions and conversation are welcome.

Yvonne G · Feb 20, 2019

Nookole said:
Also a newbie!

Also a newbie! And wondering the same thing!

What is the best kinds of substrates (other than potting soil) to use in the enclosure to keep the tortoises hydrated? And I know it says 70% in that giant block of text there, but that's hard to conceptualize.

Also, how often do they need baths? I know when they're hatchlings, baths almost every day are good. But what about when they're 4 months old? When they're over a year? How does that work? What should the bathwater temp be? How often should the fake rain occur? These are the questions!

Also a newbie! And wondering the same thing!

What is the best kinds of substrates (other than potting soil) to use in the enclosure to keep the tortoises hydrated? And I know it says 70% in that giant block of text there, but that's hard to conceptualize.

Also, how often do they need baths? I know when they're hatchlings, baths almost every day are good. But what about when they're 4 months old? When they're over a year? How does that work? What should the bathwater temp be? How often should the fake rain occur? Should they have a dry hide AND a humid hide? These are the questions!

I suggest you read the care sheet referred to above, then if you still have questions, start your own thread and we'll be happy to answer them.

Nookole · Feb 20, 2019

Yvonne G said:
I suggest you read the care sheet referred to above, then if you still have questions, start your own thread and we'll be happy to answer them.

I have read it, multiple times, as well as other care sheets on the internet.

Enclosure Humidity

LeanneW

Member

Maro2Bear

Well-Known Member

Nookole

New Member

tinytortoise

Active Member

Tom

The Dog Trainer

Yvonne G

Old Timer

Nookole

New Member

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