Winter home

Still have work to do but got a good jump on my baby box turtles temporary home for the winter. Once he goes back out in the spring he will likely stay outdoors forever( he’s about 2 inches now). It’s a 40 gallon tank. I built a concrete pool in half of the tank. The other half is between 2 and 3 inches of topsoil, leaf liter and a small amount of repti bark to help hold moisture. Right now there is 1 hide.the mushroom is just decor my son picked out from the store. I put chia seeds in a few spots to add some cover. I also released about 20-30 pill bugs and some worms. I need to add a thermometer but I have heat an uvb bulbs on it. I think he should be fine in this for about 5 months. May add Moss the the pool but not shure if I should. Any recommendations welcomed.

Looks good! In the photo the light looks red. Is it a red bulb? I read that those can cause a tortoise to eat the substrate. Very cool the way you built the pond!

Yes it’s a red bulb I will keep an eye on it. I will probly replace it with a ceramic bulb.

NickA said:

Yes it’s a red bulb I will keep an eye on it. I will probly replace it with a ceramic bulb.

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I think your tortoise needs a UVB producing bulb too. So I would put out the red light and replace the bulb with a heat, visible light and UVB producing bulb like a Arcadia bulb.

Bee62 said:

I think your tortoise needs a UVB producing bulb too. So I would put out the red light and replace the bulb with a heat, visible light and UVB producing bulb like a Arcadia bulb.

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I stated in the original post that there is a uvb bulb. He will still also go out in the sun on warmer sunny days.

NickA said:

I stated in the original post that there is a uvb bulb. He will still also go out in the sun on warmer sunny days.

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1. What type of UV(B) bulb are you using? If the UV(B) bulb you're using emits no heat and is housed in a lamp fixture, you're most likely using a compact florescent bulb which is unsafe for tortoise.

Certain types of UV(B) bulbs such as the compact florescent bulb can cause severe eye issues in tortoises. If this is in fact what you are using, please stop immediately.

Example of a safe linear florescent reptile rated UV(B) bulb:
http://www.reptilebasics.com/arcadia-desert-12-uvb/

Minority2 said:

1. What type of UV(B) bulb are you using? If the UV(B) bulb you're using emits no heat and is housed in a lamp fixture, you're most likely using a compact florescent bulb which is unsafe for tortoise.

Certain types of UV(B) bulbs such as the compact florescent bulb can cause severe eye issues in tortoises. If this is in fact what you are using, please stop immediately.

Example of a safe linear florescent reptile rated UV(B) bulb:
http://www.reptilebasics.com/arcadia-desert-12-uvb/

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It’s an Exo Terra uvb swirl bulb. I wasn’t aware on the eye damage. I usually don’t keep turtles in the house I may just do away with the uvb. My other adults don’t get any uvb while they are hibernating and I will still try to take him out on warmer sunny days until he is back out full time.

The importance of the UVB bulb is diminished if you feed foods high in calcium. Hatchlings usually wont eat greens, but they will eat insects that are gut loaded with high calcium greens like mustard, dandelion and turnip greens. It helps to use insects that are high in calcium to start with: dubia roaches, horn worms and black fly larvae are excellent choices. I rotate all of these foods with my turtles and yet I still like to get them outside in real sun when possible.

I like your cement pond! It makes me think of the Beverly Hillbillies.

NickA said:

I stated in the original post that there is a uvb bulb. He will still also go out in the sun on warmer sunny days.

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Sorry, I haven`t read that.

Still enjoying his winter indoors. Eating like a pig and growing in preparation for some warm spring sun. I’m hoping he will be a full time resident in the outdoor pen after this winter. Eating crickets, worms, box turtle food,and fruit.

He's so pretty!

He’s adorable!

NickA said:

Yes it’s a red bulb I will keep an eye on it. I will probly replace it with a ceramic bulb.

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I don't have a problem with the infrared heat light being used at night, when the box turtle is going to be burrowed down and snoozing. During the day, a more normal spectrum bulb would be encouraged.

NickA said:

Still enjoying his winter indoors. Eating like a pig and growing in preparation for some warm spring sun. I’m hoping he will be a full time resident in the outdoor pen after this winter. Eating crickets, worms, box turtle food,and fruit.

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If he's reliably eating a commercial diet pellet for box turtles, there's probably enough dietary calcium and D3 in there to meet his needs until he can go out (so UVB isn't as much of a high priority). If he's awake enough to be eating, however, he needs temperatures warm enough (in his basking area) to digest food properly.

Kinda late posting this but I introduced this yearling box with the outdoor group last month and I have to say that this little guy/gal is prolly my personal favorite it walks the pen with a boss atitiude and does great with human interaction earlier this afternoon both of my children were holding it and straight out of their hands it gobled down a worm.

Pastel Tortie said:

If he's reliably eating a commercial diet pellet for box turtles, there's probably enough dietary calcium and D3 in there to meet his needs until he can go out (so UVB isn't as much of a high priority). If he's awake enough to be eating, however, he needs temperatures warm enough (in his basking area) to digest food properly.

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I concur with this statement...during the 6 month winter indoor homes for hatchlings, yearlings, and juveniles, I do not use any UVB lightning just incandescent lighting. I supplement with high calcium and low phosphorus diets including commercial pellets. BSF Larvae is a staple in the winter time. In fact, I do not use any supplemental heat lighting at night...allowing the temperatures to mimic the variance from night and day. I do however use a different system with my hatchlings by using a 40 gallon breeder tank and filling 3/4 of the bottom of the tank with matala filter media and I cascade it on one side creating a water to land elevation. I fill the bottom of the tank with about 3 to 4 inches of water and the water will filter through the matala and I place a fish tank bubble stone along with a flat aquarium heater on the pond side. Fill the bottom of the pond with gravel, stone, plants, etc. leaving about 1 inch to 2 inches of visible water and bam....you have a functioning water heating system helping with the humidity without purchasing an expensive fogger Place the substrate and plants on top of the matala and call it good. My hatchlings have been quite active this winter and the shell growth has been nice and smooth, plus I only have change the water once a month or just add some. Less work for me

Looks like you're developing a bioactive substrate which is good cuz the worms & pill bugs can help clean up refuse and waste