Night temps dropping

ctapio1230

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So my temperature controller is set on 84F but at night it drops to 76F and I can’t get it back up at nights. It has a cover so it shouldn’t be getting that cold and I can’t figure out how to get it up at night. I have a Che and it’s 150 watt with the big dome to put it in. Should be plenty to warm it up
 

Maro2Bear

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Lots of factors here.

How large is the enclosure?
Where is your probe?
How well insulated is the enclosure?
Are you just using the one CHE?

I would be taking measurements of your tortoise’s shell too.

Maybe set your temp controller higher.
 
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Maro2Bear

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Ps - i would look to replace the CHE with a Kane Heat mat on the floor, coupled with a Radiant Heat Panel in the ceiling. Less chance of burning your torts shell from having high heat CHE too close.

Good luck!
 

Tom

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So my temperature controller is set on 84F but at night it drops to 76F and I can’t get it back up at nights. It has a cover so it shouldn’t be getting that cold and I can’t figure out how to get it up at night. I have a Che and it’s 150 watt with the big dome to put it in. Should be plenty to warm it up
Like Mark said, we need more info.

Is this an indoor or outdoor enclosure?
What species and size?
A pic of the enclosure would be helpful.
 

ctapio1230

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This is his house. Like 3 feet by 2 feet and I only have one place like 1and 1/2 feet over his house
 

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ctapio1230

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Side veiw. Che on the side closest and prob all the way on the other side
 

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Maro2Bear

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Greetings.

I see a couple issues, but it looks like you only have a mesh screen on top? With the CHE on top of that?

If so, All the heat is escaping up and out of the screen. You need a fully enclosed enclosure to hold the heat and humidity in.

Also, check where you have the probe, and substrate looks too dry.

Good luck, I’m sure Tom will provide some good input too.
 

Tom

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There are four elements to heating and lighting:
  1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt floods from the hardware store. I run them on a timer and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. You can mount a fixture on the ceiling, or hang a dome lamp from the ceiling. Go lower or higher wattage if this makes the enclosure too hot or not warm enough. Do not use "spot" bulbs, mercury vapor bulbs or halogen bulbs.
  2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species like sulcatas or leopards. I like this thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller. Put the probe in the coolest corner away from all heating elements. Unless your house gets unusually cold at night, you can skip this step for a Russian. Night lows above 60 require no night heat for Testudo species. You may need more than one heating element to spread the heat out for a given enclosure.
  3. Light. I use florescent tubes for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most tubes at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. I've been using LEDs lately and they are great, and run cooler than a florescent. This can be set on the same timer as the basking bulb.
  4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. If you want it anyway, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. It helps to have a UV meter to test and see what your bulb is actually putting out at your mounting height. Plexi-glass or screen tops will filter out some or all of the UV produced by your bulb.
 
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