Baby Eastern Hermann Enclosure

Shrime

New Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2026
Messages
4
Location (City and/or State)
Salt Lake County, Utah
Hi all, we got an Eastern Hermann Tortoise (Torro) on Saturday from the reptile expo in Sandy, UT. He is 14g and somewhere between 1-4 weeks old. We purchased the following at the expo, some of which I now realize isn't suitable through all my research on here over the last few days.
We have the following in the enclosure -
  • ExoTerra Pro Medium Low (24" x 18" x 12")
  • 2x ExoTerra ReptiSoil Bags (I understand soil isn't recommended for tortoises)
  • Some Coconut Chips we've spread into the soil to help him gain some footing
  • 24" ReptiSun T5 HO Hood with Bulb
  • Flukers 75w Basking Bulb (With Dome and Ceramic Holder)
  • Hide
  • Cuttlebone
  • Basking Rocks
  • Wheat Grass Plants
  • Little Drift Wood Log
Here are some pictures of his enclosure and of baby Torro.

I added the spaghnum moss today to really create a humid hideaway which I'm calling the Humidity Palace and as soon as I put it in he basically sprinted to it and burrowed down into it for the night!

I also added some tin foil to the top of the mesh bit at the top to try and keep some heat and humidity in.

Looking forward to hearing from you all!
 

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COmtnLady

Well-Known Member
Tortoise Club
5 Year Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2020
Messages
4,318
Location (City and/or State)
Colorado
Welcome to The Forum!

So many sources elsewhere repeat the old info that only had one-size-fits-all, marginally acceptable, outcomes. The expert members here have discovered much better ways, through hands-on experiences and controlled studies over the last thirty or forty years.

For your own peace of mind don't listen to the "advice" given by other sources (like: pet shops, social media sites, people at reptile shows, official sources - eg: many government and university links, many of the YouTube videos, lots of the care books you can borrow from a library or buy, and even most veterinarians). They're still using old info that doesn't work as well. Settle in here instead.

Ask questions, become part of this community. Everyone will do their best to help you help your tortoise have the most optimal and healthy life possible.

Before I go any farther, this is really important ~
Remove the moss. It can cause intestinal blockages. The old ways of keeping recommended it, but people here have discovered it to cause problems that can kill a tortoise. Never use sand, moss, or soil in an enclosure - all are health hazards. Coco Coir (not Coco Fiber), Orchid Bark (also called Fir Bark) or Cypress Mulch are far superior and safer.

Put more foil to cover the open area around the light. Crimp the foil to edge of the light's bell/shade and completely seal the top closed. Unless you completely enclose everything (lights included) inside a tent-like cover, this is the next-best way to make it work. Unless you seal the top tightly you will constantly have a hard time keeping the heat and humidity inside. Think about heating your own house in winter without a roof, or with only a quarter or half of the roof. Even tiny openings will act like chimneys and vent away the heat and humidity into the rest of the room.

Don't worry about your tortoise running out of air. EVERY time you open the enclosure to feed, soak, just talk to your tortoise, or to take a peek at, there is a HUGE exchange of air. Think of the size of your tort's lungs, and the several cubic feet of air in the enclosure. Running out of air is not even a consideration.

Have you had a chance to read this yet?


Every species of tortoise needs to be in a very warm (mid-80sF) and humid (also mid 80%) or higher enclosure for the first two or three years of life to thrive.

Here are some threads you may want to read through:






Ask questions. We're here to help.


Welcome aboard!


.
 

Shrime

New Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2026
Messages
4
Location (City and/or State)
Salt Lake County, Utah
Welcome to The Forum!

So many sources elsewhere repeat the old info that only had one-size-fits-all, marginally acceptable, outcomes. The expert members here have discovered much better ways, through hands-on experiences and controlled studies over the last thirty or forty years.

For your own peace of mind don't listen to the "advice" given by other sources (like: pet shops, social media sites, people at reptile shows, official sources - eg: many government and university links, many of the YouTube videos, lots of the care books you can borrow from a library or buy, and even most veterinarians). They're still using old info that doesn't work as well. Settle in here instead.

Ask questions, become part of this community. Everyone will do their best to help you help your tortoise have the most optimal and healthy life possible.

Before I go any farther, this is really important ~
Remove the moss. It can cause intestinal blockages. The old ways of keeping recommended it, but people here have discovered it to cause problems that can kill a tortoise. Never use sand, moss, or soil in an enclosure - all are health hazards. Coco Coir (not Coco Fiber), Orchid Bark (also called Fir Bark) or Cypress Mulch are far superior and safer.

Put more foil to cover the open area around the light. Crimp the foil to edge of the light's bell/shade and completely seal the top closed. Unless you completely enclose everything (lights included) inside a tent-like cover, this is the next-best way to make it work. Unless you seal the top tightly you will constantly have a hard time keeping the heat and humidity inside. Think about heating your own house in winter without a roof, or with only a quarter or half of the roof. Even tiny openings will act like chimneys and vent away the heat and humidity into the rest of the room.

Don't worry about your tortoise running out of air. EVERY time you open the enclosure to feed, soak, just talk to your tortoise, or to take a peek at, there is a HUGE exchange of air. Think of the size of your tort's lungs, and the several cubic feet of air in the enclosure. Running out of air is not even a consideration.

Have you had a chance to read this yet?


Every species of tortoise needs to be in a very warm (mid-80sF) and humid (also mid 80%) or higher enclosure for the first two or three years of life to thrive.

Here are some threads you may want to read through:






Ask questions. We're here to help.


Welcome aboard!


.
Thanks you so much for your advice I have took the moss out and I’ll try and replace the soil ASAP. Tonight I’ll do as you’ve suggested with the tin foil. I really appreciate it!

I’ll take a look through all of your articles after work today!
 

Shrime

New Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2026
Messages
4
Location (City and/or State)
Salt Lake County, Utah
Thanks you so much for your advice I have took the moss out and I’ll try and replace the soil ASAP. Tonight I’ll do as you’ve suggested with the tin foil. I really appreciate it!

I’ll take a look through all of your articles after work today!
So in one of the articles it says for UV to be set for 4hrs does that only apply if they go outdoors or also if they live indoors as well?
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
68,435
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
So in one of the articles it says for UV to be set for 4hrs does that only apply if they go outdoors or also if they live indoors as well?
That is for indoors. If they are going outside regularly, they don't really "need" indoor UV at all. We make that recommendation because of how UV from the sun works outside each day. There is no UV at all in the morning light or the late evening. UV levels build slowly as the morning progresses and peak mid day. The UV levels are only high for a few hours mid day, and then fade away back to zero in the afternoon and evening. Having mid day levels of UV for 12+ hours a day makes no sense, and it is certainly unnatural.

Because of all of the above, it is necessary to have bright LEDs in the correct color spectrum to keep the enclosure looking bright and "sunny" even when the UV tube is not on. Your UV tube is not for lighting. It is for UV. Use lights for lighting.

Coco chips, and the fiber that came with it in your batch isn't great. Coco coir, without all the hair like fibers, is great for baby Testudo. Having your lights outside and on top will create a chimney effect that draws your heat and humidity up and out into the room. This will dry out your substrate, whatever substrate you use, and this is why it's best to use a large closed chamber of one sort or another for housing baby tortoises. Adult Testudo can be housed in open topped enclosures once they are mostly grown, and as long as the room conditions are suitable for what the tortoise needs.

There is no harm in leaving the wheat grass in, but Testudo are generally not grass eaters. Just letting you know. This doesn't mean he won't nibble on it in an indoor enclosure, but this species does not "need" grass in the diet.
 

Shrime

New Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2026
Messages
4
Location (City and/or State)
Salt Lake County, Utah
That is for indoors. If they are going outside regularly, they don't really "need" indoor UV at all. We make that recommendation because of how UV from the sun works outside each day. There is no UV at all in the morning light or the late evening. UV levels build slowly as the morning progresses and peak mid day. The UV levels are only high for a few hours mid day, and then fade away back to zero in the afternoon and evening. Having mid day levels of UV for 12+ hours a day makes no sense, and it is certainly unnatural.

Because of all of the above, it is necessary to have bright LEDs in the correct color spectrum to keep the enclosure looking bright and "sunny" even when the UV tube is not on. Your UV tube is not for lighting. It is for UV. Use lights for lighting.

Coco chips, and the fiber that came with it in your batch isn't great. Coco coir, without all the hair like fibers, is great for baby Testudo. Having your lights outside and on top will create a chimney effect that draws your heat and humidity up and out into the room. This will dry out your substrate, whatever substrate you use, and this is why it's best to use a large closed chamber of one sort or another for housing baby tortoises. Adult Testudo can be housed in open topped enclosures once they are mostly grown, and as long as the room conditions are suitable for what the tortoise needs.

There is no harm in leaving the wheat grass in, but Testudo are generally not grass eaters. Just letting you know. This doesn't mean he won't nibble on it in an indoor enclosure, but this species does not "need" grass in the diet.
I see! Thank you so much Tim. I’ll change the timer to be 4hrs and see about getting a suitable LED for daylight simulation in that case.

I’ll also remove the coconut chips.

I’m wondering if I’m able to get silicone mats and cut them to size to cover the mesh if that would be a suitable solution for the heat and moisture escaping?
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
68,435
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
I see! Thank you so much Tim. I’ll change the timer to be 4hrs and see about getting a suitable LED for daylight simulation in that case.

I’ll also remove the coconut chips.

I’m wondering if I’m able to get silicone mats and cut them to size to cover the mesh if that would be a suitable solution for the heat and moisture escaping?
I don't think the mats will work any better than the foil. The issue can easily be seen with a FLIR unit. Most of the electrically generated heat is escaping up and out into the room when the lights are outside the enclosure like yours. Heat rises and it pulls in cold dry air from every crevice when it does. If you had a solid roof with the heat lamps inside the enclosure, all of that rising heat would stay where you want it, and not dry out the enclosure as it all escapes. This also allows you to use much lower wattage bulbs to maintain the correct temperatures and conditions. I only use 25 watt bulbs in many of my closed chamber enclosures. This is much better for growing babies. Screen tops are great for some reptile species, but not so much for tortoises.
 

Littleredfootbigredheart

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2023
Messages
7,679
Location (City and/or State)
UK
I see! Thank you so much Tim. I’ll change the timer to be 4hrs and see about getting a suitable LED for daylight simulation in that case.

I’ll also remove the coconut chips.

I’m wondering if I’m able to get silicone mats and cut them to size to cover the mesh if that would be a suitable solution for the heat and moisture escaping?
Hey friend! Late to this post but I can see you were linked some of my housing threads above, I hope you liked them! They cover correct equipment(uvb, heating bulbs, lighting etc), correct levels, importance of a closed chamber for younger tortoises(only way to maintain the humidity you need), appropriately maintaining the humidity, safe substrates, there’s lots of visual examples for everything, and a really handy diet link to check out! If ever going with a greenhouse, the lower the ceiling height, whilst still allowing for recommended bulb height, the better, but I’ll add more ideas below for closed chambers

The common keeping error one will hopefully help you avoid the wrong bulbs, substrates, housing etc, I always encourage double checking purchases on the forum too before buying😊

Hope you and your new baby tortoise are doing well!🐢💚
 
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