Advice needed please (doesn't come out of hiding, eyes closed)

cookietortoise

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Hello, I have a horsefield tortoise (Russian tortoise) I'm worried about him/her as somedays him/her doesn't want to come out of hiding and his/her eyes will be closed but you can see the eye behind moving about and when the eye does open it will look really squinted like it's stinging him/her, I give him/her a bath but now and again he/she squints or wipes on the arm (I have tried to upload the best photos I could) after a bath I let him/her proply dry off, iv also never seen him/her drink from the bowl in the Viv or go near it but I know that my tortoise does drink in the bath as that's where it prefers to wee and poo. The foods I give my tortoise are kale and russian lettuce with a sprinkling of calcium powder, my tortoise chooses not to eat everyday (can miss 3-4 days out) I change the dirt (that I get from the pet shop) every month but obviously spot clean, am I suppost to springle the dirt with water every now and again to dampen the dirt?
What other foods are good for my tortoise?
I have asked the vet but they stated to bath my tortoise twice a day, is this correct?
I have been bathing him/her with reptoboost as recommended by the vet.
Some days my tortoise has good days but sometimes it can go on for days of what I have stated above 😞. Also the reptile shop told me not to let the tortoise hibernate this year as it's too young (I have uploaded certificate) was this right? I'm just soo confused 😕, any advice please!
 

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zolasmum

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Hello, I have a horsefield tortoise (Russian tortoise) I'm worried about him/her as somedays him/her doesn't want to come out of hiding and his/her eyes will be closed but you can see the eye behind moving about and when the eye does open it will look really squinted like it's stinging him/her, I give him/her a bath but now and again he/she squints or wipes on the arm (I have tried to upload the best photos I could) after a bath I let him/her proply dry off, iv also never seen him/her drink from the bowl in the Viv or go near it but I know that my tortoise does drink in the bath as that's where it prefers to wee and poo. The foods I give my tortoise are kale and russian lettuce with a sprinkling of calcium powder, my tortoise chooses not to eat everyday (can miss 3-4 days out) I change the dirt (that I get from the pet shop) every month but obviously spot clean, am I suppost to springle the dirt with water every now and again to dampen the dirt?
What other foods are good for my tortoise?
I have asked the vet but they stated to bath my tortoise twice a day, is this correct?
I have been bathing him/her with reptoboost as recommended by the vet.
Some days my tortoise has good days but sometimes it can go on for days of what I have stated above 😞. Also the reptile shop told me not to let the tortoise hibernate this year as it's too young (I have uploaded certificate) was this right? I'm just soo confused 😕, any advice please!
Welcome from Devon. I have a Hermanns tortoise, who is now 22, and when he was little, he used to have eye problems too. I started wiping his eyes gently every morning with a cotton-wool pad dampened with boiled water - this helped a lot, and I have gone on doing it ever since. The other thing I found helpful is called Viscotears - it is a tube of gel eye drops from the chemist, and you just squeeze a little drop on each eye - it turns to liquid at once , and you can wipe off any that gets on his face. It is meant for humans. so you need an ordinary chemist, not a pet place, to get it - and it isn't expensive.
I would give it a try - if he can't see what is around him, he will get upset.
I would change his water dish to a terra-cotta plant saucer, pushed into the substrate, so he can get closer to the water, and if you are putting calcium on his food, don't do it every day - just a very small pinch twice a week. Too much is bad for them, and can put them off their food.
How long have you had him?
I'm sure that someone who knows more about Russians will write to you soon ,about food and other stuff I don't know
Just one other thing, that substrate doesn't look very suitable - especially the little white bits, which he may try to eat !
Best wishes from Angie
 

cookietortoise

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Welcome from Devon. I have a Hermanns tortoise, who is now 22, and when he was little, he used to have eye problems too. I started wiping his eyes gently every morning with a cotton-wool pad dampened with boiled water - this helped a lot, and I have gone on doing it ever since. The other thing I found helpful is called Viscotears - it is a tube of gel eye drops from the chemist, and you just squeeze a little drop on each eye - it turns to liquid at once , and you can wipe off any that gets on his face. It is meant for humans. so you need an ordinary chemist, not a pet place, to get it - and it isn't expensive.
I would give it a try - if he can't see what is around him, he will get upset.
I would change his water dish to a terra-cotta plant saucer, pushed into the substrate, so he can get closer to the water, and if you are putting calcium on his food, don't do it every day - just a very small pinch twice a week. Too much is bad for them, and can put them off their food.
How long have you had him?
I'm sure that someone who knows more about Russians will write to you soon ,about food and other stuff I don't know
Just one other thing, that substrate doesn't look very suitable - especially the little white bits, which he may try to eat !
Best wishes from Angie
Thankyou for writing back, he's substrate I brought from the pet shop it does have tiny little stones in, they also sell it at pets at home stores.
I didn't know that about the calcium, I thought that it did have to be on the food everytime 🤦🏻‍♀️iv had the tortoise for nearly 6 months, I have a new uvb bulb on the way and the heat bulb I replaced to one that doesn't show light as I thought it may be that.
Iv gone ahead and brought the tortoise a terracotta saucer, a calcium thing that birds peck at (so the tortoise can supply its own calcium) and I have brought a new hiding shelter with ramp to climb if he/she wanted to (just waiting for it to arrive)
I have tried dried flowers but my tortoise turns Thier nose up at it, what other foods can I give safely?
I hope the calcium isn't the issue with he's eyes, I was thinking maybe the dryness of the dirt was the cause
 

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Maro2Bear

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I agree with @zolasmum , that HomeStore substrate with the white bits has been discussed a lot here on the Forum & always gets the big 👎👎 each & every time. Torts like to go about & pick at it, often possibly leading to impaction. Best to swap it out.

You definitely do NOT want to be adding calcium daily. The cuttlebone that you have now provided is good. Don’t be alarmed if it sits there for awhile w/o being nibbled. If it gets real dirty, you can give it a rinse.

Keep on soaking & swap out substrate & make sure your humidity is increased & temps are where they should be at tort level. Once u swap out the substrate, yes, wet down your new substrate.

Definitely sink the water dish down into the substrate.

Good luck
 
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cookietortoise

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I agree with @zolasmum , that HomeStore substrate with the white bits has been discussed a lot here on the Forum & always gets the big 👎👎 each & every time. Torts like to go about & pick at it, often possibly leading to impaction. Best to swap it out.

You definitely do NOT want to be adding calcium daily. The cuttlebone that you have now provided is good. Don’t be alarmed if it sits there for awhile w/o being nibbled. If it gets real dirty, you can give it a rinse.

Keep on soaking & swap out substrate & make sure your humidity is increased & temps are where they should be at tort level. Once u swap out the substrate, yes, wet down your new substrate.

Definitely sink the water dish down into the substrate.

Good luck
Would this substrate pictured be better to use? It's what I used to use (ordered from Amazon) and then changed it as the other one with stones in was at the pet shop. How many times do you soak the substaint and change it?
Temperature should be 30-35c heat in the basking spot?
 

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Maro2Bear

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cookietortoise

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Thankyou, what humidity does the substrate need to be? Also does the top layer have to be left dry because of shell rot? Would you just spray the substrate now and again? And with the humidity gauge I just brought do I stick that part into the substrate?
Sorry for soo many questions I just wish I knew all this sooner, you would think the pet shop that sell these would tell you everything 😑
 

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zolasmum

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You mentioned possibly hibernating your tortoise - personally, I would definitely put that off until next year, as you are still basically sorting him/her out, and there is also the problem with his eyes to consider. It won't matter if he doesn't start hibernating until next year - actually, Zola has never hibernated, and seems fine . Or wait until, say, ,January, and give him a short hibernation then.
Do try the things I suggested for his eyes- it might make him more settled.
Angie
 

TammyJ

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I think you have a lighting and diet problem. Kale and Russian lettuce and what else??? And the lights you are using may possibly be causing the eye problem. We need details on the lights.
 

cookietortoise

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The uvb is a D3 reptile lamp T5 12% 24W
&
Bonlux 100W Terrarium Reptile Heat Bulb,Ceramic Heat Emitter, No Light E27 Black Ceramic Heat Lamp

I just feed the russian lettuce and kale , don't know what else is good to give that is good for them regularly or as a treat, google doesn't help with the mixed messages
 

Tom

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Thankyou, what humidity does the substrate need to be? Also does the top layer have to be left dry because of shell rot? Would you just spray the substrate now and again? And with the humidity gauge I just brought do I stick that part into the substrate?
Sorry for soo many questions I just wish I knew all this sooner, you would think the pet shop that sell these would tell you everything 😑
You have received all the usual wrong pet store info. Please take a moment to read this for the correct care info. I recommend reading it at least twice. This will answer most of your questions:
 

zolasmum

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The uvb is a D3 reptile lamp T5 12% 24W
&
Bonlux 100W Terrarium Reptile Heat Bulb,Ceramic Heat Emitter, No Light E27 Black Ceramic Heat Lamp

I just feed the russian lettuce and kale , don't know what else is good to give that is good for them regularly or as a treat, google doesn't help with the mixed messages
I think you will find a lot of information on a site called "the tortoise table" I believe it is put out by The Tortoise Trust.
Just for your information, we give Zola (a hermanns) lots of dandelion leaves, which are particularly good for him , and also for your chap, watercress , rocket, pea shoots, clover and radicchio - which is his favourite food.He gets other things as well, but those are his regular staples. I think all these are perfectly ok for your tortoise too,
What is his/her name?
Angie
 

zolasmum

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You asked about food for treats - we give Zola the occasional cucumber slice - he loves that, but it isn't something to give regularly, as it isn't nutritious, but it is hydrating, if you ever feel he needs more fluid.
I don't know if you are aware that Russian tortoises in general have a reputation for being escape artists,and are particularly good at climbing - so check out anywhere accessible to him, to make sure it is safe from his acrobatics.
Like all tortoises, they can be very determined !
Angie
 

cookietortoise

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You have received all the usual wrong pet store info. Please take a moment to read this for the correct care info. I recommend reading it at least twice. This will answer most of your questions:
Hello, I have read it but it doesn't state what humidity the Viv should be. I have today redone the Viv like this, but I washed the bark, dried in a towel so it's all damp and put a slight bit of soil at the very bottom of the viv just to give the bark some stability to lay on.
Please help me out with the answer of what humidity should it be for my russian tortoise
 

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Tom

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Hello, I have read it but it doesn't state what humidity the Viv should be. I have today redone the Viv like this, but I washed the bark, dried in a towel so it's all damp and put a slight bit of soil at the very bottom of the viv just to give the bark some stability to lay on.
Please help me out with the answer of what humidity should it be for my russian tortoise
Its fantastic that you are doing your best for your tortoise! I'm happy to help!

Humidity isn't mentioned in the care sheet because if the enclosure is set up correctly, the actually humidity number will be in the correct range. Lightly damp substrate, a closed chamber, and a humid hide will give a horsfield all the humidity it needs. Looks like you've got two of the three, and all you need is a humid hide. I like humidity to be at least 60-90% for a growing baby, and somewhere around 40-60% is fine for adults, but this species can tolerate a wide range of humidity AS LONG AS they are being housed and hydrated correctly.

Here are a couple of problems for you to consider:
1. Soil should never be used as tortoise substrate. It is made from all sorts of weird stuff and composted yard waste. It could be toxic or harmful in any ways, and the people making and selling it do not intend for small animals to be living in or on it.
2. That viv is already way too small. Tortoises need huge enclosures to walk around in. Many other reptiles can get by with smaller accommodations, but not tortoises. Walking loose on the floor is not safe, so their enclosures need to be large enough to meet their exercise needs.
3. I don't see an incandescent basking bulb in your enclosure. Your tortoise needs a basking bulb. The ceramic heating element is a great way to maintain ambient temperatures when controlled by a thermostat, but your tortoise still needs to be able to bask in the "sun". There needs to be warmth and light coming form the same bulb to simulate this. Arcadia sells terrific flood bulbs for basking that are available in your country.
 

cookietortoise

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Its fantastic that you are doing your best for your tortoise! I'm happy to help!

Humidity isn't mentioned in the care sheet because if the enclosure is set up correctly, the actually humidity number will be in the correct range. Lightly damp substrate, a closed chamber, and a humid hide will give a horsfield all the humidity it needs. Looks like you've got two of the three, and all you need is a humid hide. I like humidity to be at least 60-90% for a growing baby, and somewhere around 40-60% is fine for adults, but this species can tolerate a wide range of humidity AS LONG AS they are being housed and hydrated correctly.

Here are a couple of problems for you to consider:
1. Soil should never be used as tortoise substrate. It is made from all sorts of weird stuff and composted yard waste. It could be toxic or harmful in any ways, and the people making and selling it do not intend for small animals to be living in or on it.
2. That viv is already way too small. Tortoises need huge enclosures to walk around in. Many other reptiles can get by with smaller accommodations, but not tortoises. Walking loose on the floor is not safe, so their enclosures need to be large enough to meet their exercise needs.
3. I don't see an incandescent basking bulb in your enclosure. Your tortoise needs a basking bulb. The ceramic heating element is a great way to maintain ambient temperatures when controlled by a thermostat, but your tortoise still needs to be able to bask in the "sun". There needs to be warmth and light coming form the same bulb to simulate this. Arcadia sells terrific flood bulbs for basking that are available in your country.
Thanks for commenting back, the heat bulb I have is just for the heat, I did have the red light/heat bulb but I changed it to just a heat bulb as I thought it was affecting my tortoise eyes. I do have the uvb light that I re newed today, I'm trying my best but I needed teaching. Iam however learning allot from you all which I really needed
 
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