Advise on outdoor enclosure in the PNW

[tortnmutt]

I live where it rains a lot and we get crazy wind storms off the pacific. I don't think it got above 80 last summer. I want my Russian tort be able to go out on those sunny days and even the overcast days and soak up some natural vitamin D instead of his UVB light. I have space at work (where he lives during the week) in planters that are 4x6 ft to adapt into an enclosure for him but want him to be warm enough with the beach breeze. I've seen photos of the plastic enclosures but worry about putting a heating element in there and melting something. And he wouldn't get any nutrients through the plastic, right?
Also I'm on a teachers salary so low cost is ideal. Thanks!

 

[argus333]

ya no uv threw plastic but i have a tegu pen where i cover half with plexi glass so half gets really hot like 100 on a 70 day. so he can go over to uncovered side an get uv when he gets to hot. pen is 10ft x 12 ft cost about $150 to make that includes hard wear cloth top an bottom.

 

[tortnmutt]

Do you have a photo?

 

[Cowboy_Ken]

I, too, am in the PNW. With my russians, as long as there is no rain, I'm fine putting mine out at 55°f. Mine stay out 24 hrs a day once the weather here warms up and drys to nighttime lows of the upper 50's. I've a very large, weed thick outdoor enclosure for them.

 

[tortnmutt]

I, too, am in the PNW. With my russians, as long as there is no rain, I'm fine putting mine out at 55°f. Mine stay out 24 hrs a day once the weather here warms up and drys to nighttime lows of the upper 50's. I've a very large, weed thick outdoor enclosure for them.

What do you use CHEs going to keep them warm at night? We get random beach mist in the summer then it'll be pretty warm when the sun is actually out.

 

[Cowboy_Ken]

These guys come from an area that is temperate the has normal drops at night into the 40's at night. As long as they've made themselves a fair burrow, they won't require any nighttime heat. Critters are all I worry about in the summer. Skunks, possums, raccoons, mice…I have a hotline tape around the perimeter of my enclosure.

 

[tortnmutt]

Thanks ken! So right now it's a dirt and sand combo with a bunch of strawberry plants. If I dig out some of the dirt and add a bark will that help keep him warmest? At the school (work) I'd bring him in at night because I worry about a black bear or possum (or person) trying to take down the enclosure, during the day they creatures stay away.

 

[Cowboy_Ken]

What you want to shoot for is a substrate that is easy to dig and “fluffs" well around them. Mine have their burrows for the most part under clumps of grass. 86 the strawberry plants if you can. Plant broadleaf weeds, California poppies, pansies ect.

 

[tortnmutt]

He loves burrowing in the sphagnum moss it just doesn't look very warm. I'll see if any of the other teachers want the strawberries in their planter boxes. It's pretty fun that I have all the other classes starting my seeds for me and planting them in their boxes so I can use mine for Shelldon. So far I have kale, chard, collard greens, and squash. Any other suggestions?!

 

[argus333]

ill get some

 

[lynnedit]

Check this out for more foods:
http://russiantortoise.net/russiantortoisediet.htm

You can get good seed mixes at Tortoise Supply or Carolina Pet Supply for Mediterranean tortoises.

The best substrate outside is well drained garden soil. Get 2-3 bags of the ACE topsoil (not potting soil); it does not have any animal poo or chemical fertilizers.

I also live in the PNW near Portland, Or.

You may have to keep your Russian inside over winter, depending on what you can set up. But you can still extend the time outside Spring to Fall.

To keep a Russian outside in our area for a good part of the year, they need three things;
1) a Dry area. So creating a wood wall in one of the raised beds (is that what you will be using for him?) with a door, then covering this with plexiglass or polycarbonate or a cold frame achieves this.
The enclosed area could be 2x4' and the open area 4x4' (since your raised beds are 4x6')
2) the ability to warm up in the am so they can digest, be active, etc.
I hang a basking light in mine, which is plugged inside the cold frame via an outdoor extension cord to a GFI plug nearby. It is hung from a long planter hook and secured. You just need enough height in the 'cold frame' area to accommodate the basking light.
He warms up there, but goes out and about even in the 40's, then nips back in for a warm up.
If it isn't sunny, then the cold frame won't warm up enough by itself w/o supplemental heat.
3) protection from temps below freezing. So while they can tolerate night temps into the 40's (as long as they can warm up in the am), they can't tolerate temps below freezing. So if they will be outside year round (which you may not be aiming for), some background heat in the cold frame is necessary. I use a Hound Heater, which has a built in thermostat.

They are good at self regulating themselves, but they need the tools. Mine will run in and out, they know exactly when the sun comes out.

Here's one of mine when I first set it up:




Best of luck!

 

[tortnmutt]

Check this out for more foods:
http://russiantortoise.net/russiantortoisediet.htm

You can get good seed mixes at Tortoise Supply or Carolina Pet Supply for Mediterranean tortoises.

The best substrate outside is well drained garden soil. Get 2-3 bags of the ACE topsoil (not potting soil); it does not have any animal poo or chemical fertilizers.

I also live in the PNW near Portland, Or.

You may have to keep your Russian inside over winter, depending on what you can set up. But you can still extend the time outside Spring to Fall.

To keep a Russian outside in our area for a good part of the year, they need three things;
1) a Dry area. So creating a wood wall in one of the raised beds (is that what you will be using for him?) with a door, then covering this with plexiglass or polycarbonate or a cold frame achieves this.
The enclosed area could be 2x4' and the open area 4x4' (since your raised beds are 4x6')
2) the ability to warm up in the am so they can digest, be active, etc.
I hang a basking light in mine, which is plugged inside the cold frame via an outdoor extension cord to a GFI plug nearby. It is hung from a long planter hook and secured. You just need enough height in the 'cold frame' area to accommodate the basking light.
He warms up there, but goes out and about even in the 40's, then nips back in for a warm up.
If it isn't sunny, then the cold frame won't warm up enough by itself w/o supplemental heat.
3) protection from temps below freezing. So while they can tolerate night temps into the 40's (as long as they can warm up in the am), they can't tolerate temps below freezing. So if they will be outside year round (which you may not be aiming for), some background heat in the cold frame is necessary. I use a Hound Heater, which has a built in thermostat.

They are good at self regulating themselves, but they need the tools. Mine will run in and out, they know exactly when the sun comes out.

Here's one of mine when I first set it up:




Best of luck!

Wow!! I love it! That's exactly what I want his to look like! I'm in Long Beach WA. I had no idea they could tolerate temps that low. Makes me feel so much better for when the power goes out!

Wow

 

[lynnedit]

You can definitely do as much or as little as you want.
Less means you have an inside enclosure also and your tortoise goes out on nice days.
More means you can leave your tortoise out more often because they do have the means to self regulate temps, etc., with the weather.

(if the power goes out, you still have to protect against freezing temps, of course) by bringing him in).

Both ways work!

---

One more pic of a 'polytunnel' I made out of PVC pipe and 6mm greenhouse plastic. It doesn't have heating, but sure warms up some even on cloudy days (unless really dreary).
I keep it in place with those little metal push in broom holders.
The chain unhooks so I can remove it in the summer.
Taken yesterday morning, so it was REALLY dreary.

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This is my sulcata that I adopted last summer, Aubrey's 41.2lbs. The dr said she is a girl but a pink thing came out when she was deficating which comes out of my male leopard torti. Here is picture of her underside. Does anyone know how old she'd be?

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This is my sulcata that I adopted last summer, Aubrey's 41.2lbs. The Dr said she is a girl but a pink thing came out when she was deficating which comes out of my male leopard torti. Here's a picture of her underside. Could anyone tell how old she approximately is by her weight and breed?

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Which tort has a concaved shell? The leo or the sulcata? In sulcatas that means male.

That's Tylor my male leopard born 2011 he weighs 2.04lbs but see how the shell is turning to the left at the bottom like a person with a spinal issue.

 

[tortnmutt]

Now all I need is someone to build those for me!! In my head I kind of see a combo of the 2... About how much did it cost you to make that PVC top?

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One more pic of a 'polytunnel' I made out of PVC pipe and 6mm greenhouse plastic. It doesn't have heating, but sure warms up some even on cloudy days (unless really dreary).
I keep it in place with those little metal push in broom holders.
The chain unhooks so I can remove it in the summer.
Taken yesterday morning, so it was REALLY dreary.

Can you buy plexiglass at Home Depot?

 

[lynnedit]

You can buy plexiglass at Home depot but it is more expensive.
I would contact a sign company, and glass supply store and ask if they sell it; they may cut the size you need.
If there is any way you can get a hold of twin wall polycarbonate, that's even better (twin walled, so better insulation).
Finally, Greenhouse plastic 6mm is very tough and you could use that on the PVC frame to get started. There is a guy who has a walk in Green house with this product on it, and he has basking lights, and an oil filled heater in a very cold climate for Redfoots! Amazing.

PVC is cheap. If there is any kind of recycling place, look there. Also check Freecycle and Craigslist. Or, check Home Depot. 1/2" PVC (look for the thinnest walled PVC, it's plenty strong and cheaper. You can get 8' or maybe 10' for under $2. If it won't fit in your car, bring a hack saw and cut it down to the size you need in the parking lot with a hacksaw, lol.
Home depot, ACE, or plumbing supply stores have all of the connectors.

Sometimes you can also get reasonably priced cold frames on CL as well from a private party. If you see one made with Solex, that is also a very good product.

 

[tortnmutt]

You can buy plexiglass at Home depot but it is more expensive.
I would contact a sign company, and glass supply store and ask if they sell it; they may cut the size you need.
If there is any way you can get a hold of twin wall polycarbonate, that's even better (twin walled, so better insulation).
Finally, Greenhouse plastic 6mm is very tough and you could use that on the PVC frame to get started. There is a guy who has a walk in Green house with this product on it, and he has basking lights, and an oil filled heater in a very cold climate for Redfoots! Amazing.

PVC is cheap. If there is any kind of recycling place, look there. Also check Freecycle and Craigslist. Or, check Home Depot. 1/2" PVC (look for the thinnest walled PVC, it's plenty strong and cheaper. You can get 8' or maybe 10' for under $2. If it won't fit in your car, bring a hack saw and cut it down to the size you need in the parking lot with a hacksaw, lol.
Home depot, ACE, or plumbing supply stores have all of the connectors.

Sometimes you can also get reasonably priced cold frames on CL as well from a private party. If you see one made with Solex, that is also a very good product.

Did I already ask you where in SW WA you are? I'm in Long Beach and there is pretty much nothing here.. Have to cross the river to Astoria/Warrenton (45 min away) to go to civilization.

Thanks so much for all of your advice!

 

[lynnedit]

I am in Vancouver, Wa, so we do have more choices. :/
And Plexiglass is a fine option to allow a dry area. Just compare prices; I think the Acrylic Plexiglass is the least expensive. Lexan is very expensive.
You can drill plexiglass with a regular (not dull) drill bit if you go a bit more slowly/take your time, and spray with water.
You could also attach it to the wood frame with 100% Silicone.

 

[tortnmutt]

I was just looking on craigslist and you have SO many more options for the cold frames! I'm SO jealous. I imagine I can find someone around here to help me though. I'm building challenged.

 

[lynnedit]

Another thought, lol. You may be planning a screened lid on a frame. If so, make two, each either 3x6' or one 2x4' and one 4x4'.
Then in the Spring/Autumn, just cover one side with the sturdiest plastic you can find: staple it on. You can pull it off in Summer if needed, though on the coast you may not need to.

As mentioned, if you are planning a basking light, just make sure you have enough height from lid to soil to accommodate it.

---

You have to quickly make friends with a carpenter, lol!

 

[tortnmutt]

I know! The only people I know out here are teachers. Great with managing difficult children, not so much with the power tools. I feel like if I put the mesh sides I could easily staple on the plastic sheets in the cooler months.
What I really need is one of these! http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/grq/4383016706.html