African Leopard Juvenile Hunger Strike

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purpod

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Greetings All ~ my tortie has decided to go on a hunger strike, and it's driving me nuts! I put in fresh greens {such as a spring mix, but with additional greens such as beet leaves, raddish leaves, kale, parsley, etc..} and he barely eats.

I have also tried the processed food by Nature Zone called Tortoise Bites that is s'posed to stimulate his appetite, but to no avail. I've tried tempting him with dandi flowers, too, but that was a no go as well.

He has an under-the-tank heater as well as a Repti-Glo 26 watt high UVB output light above his tank; he is only about 1 year old and so for now he is just in a 10 gallon tank. His flooring is not your typical bedding, but rather one of those washable carpets. He also has a large bowl broken in half to use as a hiding area, and fresh water too.

Does anyone have any ideas as to how to get him to eat regularly again? Can one give strawberry greens to entice him to eat? Any suggestions would be most gratefully accepted!!

Thanx guys & gals,
Purpod
 

Jacqui

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My first thought is that he should be moved to a bigger, more appropriate enclosure.

Next thing is to then make sure your above the substrate heat is correct. Lose the UTH. There is no way with a 10 gal you can have a hot side warm enough and a cold side that's cool enough for the little guy. So with the new enclosure, do heat checks on both the hot and cold side. Get them where they need to be. If he is too hot or too cold, he won't eat.

Can you get him some time outside? Either with you keeping a sharp eye on him (guarding him) or in a safe enclosure. Sunlight does wonders for any tort. Even an hour a day can create miracles.

Those would be my first suggestions.
 

purpod

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Hiya Jacqui ~

Thanx for the advice! I had thought since he was small that the 10 gal would be sufficient for now, but of course you are correct.. I can see now that he really doesn't have the hot/cold areas.

Aside from the UTH {which I can remove} what other heat source(s) would you suggest for indoors {in addition to the the Repti-Glo bulb already in place}? And yes, on warm days I do get to take him outside {with our foolish mutt inside, of course!}. He can not get out of our little area but I still sit outside with him, amking sure he is safe. With the heat coming back to So. Cal., our time outdoors should be well increased soon.

Thanx a bunch for the contact/reply ~ Any comments or suggestions will always be appreciated!
Purpod
 

Jacqui

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Even if it were a bit larger in size, usually aquariums have problems with being able to get/hold the correct heat/cool, some animals get stressed with being able to see out, and sometimes air exchange/humidity can be problematic in them.

It's not so much the size or type of bulb, it is more what does it do. Once you get a larger set up, then see what the current bulb does for warmth. It may put off enough heat, especially with summer coming on. Checking the hot/cool spots fairly often is important as weather changes, bulbs get older, ect..,

My suggestion is to prepare new housing. Try your old light and come back and tell us how it does for you. Then we can give some suggestions on types and sizes to may be try.
 

Jenn1

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Aquariums: Aquariums are often recommended by pet shop employees. However, they are unsuitable for tortoises. Because of the shape (too tall and narrow) air circulation is poor. They are also hard to keep at the proper temperatures. They are heavy and hard to clean The clear sides are also stressful to the tortoise. They don't understand the concept of glass and will continually try to go through it. If you must use an aquarium, the minimum size is 75 gallon. It must be fitted with a circulating fan and a visual barrier.

Rubbermaid storage containers: These are an inexpensive indoor pen. The 50 gallon container is an ideal starting point for one tortoise. They are light and easy to clean. They are opaque so the animal can't see out. The best part is....they only cost $15 ! Keep in mind that bigger is better.
Temperature: Temperature is critical for a healthy tortoise. The pen should have a cool end with the temps in the low 70's and a basking spot at 90-95°F. Night time temperature drops are needed. Mine do well with temps that drop down into the 60's at night. If they are kept too cool they can't digest their food. Too warm and they stop eating and aestivate (sort of like suspended animation).

Lighting: Some of the better lighting is the new Active UVheat, T-Rex Active UVHeat, and Capture The Sun bulbs (click here for a comparison). These are used extensively in zoo's. The 100 watt flood is the most commonly used. While they do put out heat you may need to add a ceramic heat emitter to get the right temperature. Also make sure to get a good clamp on light fixture with a ceramic socket that is rated for the wattage bulb you buy.. Home Depot has them for about 10 bucks. Whenever I use a clip on fixture, I always use a "C" clamp to anchor it.

The UVHeat bulbs can be bought at http://www.carolinapetsupply.com/catalog/

An alternative is the Reptisun 10.0 straight tube. But since it doesn't give off heat you will also need a basking light such as the ESU Reptile Basking Spot BrightLight Incandescent Bulbs or the Hagen Reptile Exo-Terra Day Glo Infrared Basking Spot Lamp. Keep in mind that these bulbs should be replaced every 6 months.

There are many other bulbs out there. There is a basking light that provides UVA. But this doesn't have the UVB. There are colored bulbs...again no UVB. If it doesn't specifically say "UVB" it doesn't have it.

Keep the lights on 12-14 hours a day.
http://africantortoise.com/leopard_tortoise.htm
 

terrypin

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Jenn1 said:
Aquariums: Aquariums are often recommended by pet shop employees. However, they are unsuitable for tortoises. Because of the shape (too tall and narrow) air circulation is poor. They are also hard to keep at the proper temperatures. They are heavy and hard to clean The clear sides are also stressful to the tortoise. They don't understand the concept of glass and will continually try to go through it. If you must use an aquarium, the minimum size is 75 gallon. It must be fitted with a circulating fan and a visual barrier.

Rubbermaid storage containers: These are an inexpensive indoor pen. The 50 gallon container is an ideal starting point for one tortoise. They are light and easy to clean. They are opaque so the animal can't see out. The best part is....they only cost $15 ! Keep in mind that bigger is better.
Temperature: Temperature is critical for a healthy tortoise. The pen should have a cool end with the temps in the low 70's and a basking spot at 90-95°F. Night time temperature drops are needed. Mine do well with temps that drop down into the 60's at night. If they are kept too cool they can't digest their food. Too warm and they stop eating and aestivate (sort of like suspended animation).

Lighting: Some of the better lighting is the new Active UVheat, T-Rex Active UVHeat, and Capture The Sun bulbs (click here for a comparison). These are used extensively in zoo's. The 100 watt flood is the most commonly used. While they do put out heat you may need to add a ceramic heat emitter to get the right temperature. Also make sure to get a good clamp on light fixture with a ceramic socket that is rated for the wattage bulb you buy.. Home Depot has them for about 10 bucks. Whenever I use a clip on fixture, I always use a "C" clamp to anchor it.

The UVHeat bulbs can be bought at http://www.carolinapetsupply.com/catalog/

An alternative is the Reptisun 10.0 straight tube. But since it doesn't give off heat you will also need a basking light such as the ESU Reptile Basking Spot BrightLight Incandescent Bulbs or the Hagen Reptile Exo-Terra Day Glo Infrared Basking Spot Lamp. Keep in mind that these bulbs should be replaced every 6 months.

There are many other bulbs out there. There is a basking light that provides UVA. But this doesn't have the UVB. There are colored bulbs...again no UVB. If it doesn't specifically say "UVB" it doesn't have it.

Keep the lights on 12-14 hours a day.
http://africantortoise.com/leopard_tortoise.htm
hi i have 5 juveniles at just over 5 years old and when indoors they have an open topped pen that is 6' x 3' with a 160w powersun at one end and an old 5.0 trulite tube at the other so they have a well lit area to use away from the heat.background heat is 68f to 72f daytime with an overnight drop to a minimum of 65f i have found in an open topped pen of this size the 160w needs to be 18" above the basking cement slab/tile.during the summer months they spend 4 hours a day outside once temperatures are above 60f.and a minimum of 8hours when temperatures reach 65f.
terry
temppen2.jpg

leojuvenilesindoors.jpg

leojuvenileunderlamp.jpg
 

purpod

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Dear Jenn & Terry ~

Thanx so much for your advice on how to get King Tortie into an enclosure that is more suitable for him! I'm really grateful ~

He is coming out more often when he is indoors, and really loves getting to go outside; for now, I warch him when he is outside, but am working on a screened top so that he can cruise around without the dangers of any predators.

I've already contacted Carolina Pet Supply and having some of that tortie grazing seed on the way ~ The assistance there has been great!

Anyways, now I'm rambling, so away I must ~ but again, all of your advice is much appreciated!
Purpod
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-EJ

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This isn't the first time you are going to encounter this...

The 10 gal tank is just fine for a one year old. As it starts growing you can move it up.

The undertank heater... Move it to one half of the tank even if you are wasting some of the mat. Hook up a rheostat and adjust it so the warm end is 80F at the surface. Make sure the mat has some space between the tank and the surface the tank is resting on.

Try Mazuri tortoise diet.

It sounds like your current set up is a little hot.

Make sure you soak the little guy daily.

Ed

purpod said:
Greetings All ~ my tortie has decided to go on a hunger strike, and it's driving me nuts! I put in fresh greens {such as a spring mix, but with additional greens such as beet leaves, raddish leaves, kale, parsley, etc..} and he barely eats.

I have also tried the processed food by Nature Zone called Tortoise Bites that is s'posed to stimulate his appetite, but to no avail. I've tried tempting him with dandi flowers, too, but that was a no go as well.

He has an under-the-tank heater as well as a Repti-Glo 26 watt high UVB output light above his tank; he is only about 1 year old and so for now he is just in a 10 gallon tank. His flooring is not your typical bedding, but rather one of those washable carpets. He also has a large bowl broken in half to use as a hiding area, and fresh water too.

Does anyone have any ideas as to how to get him to eat regularly again? Can one give strawberry greens to entice him to eat? Any suggestions would be most gratefully accepted!!

Thanx guys & gals,
Purpod
 

purpod

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-EJ said:
This isn't the first time you are going to encounter this...

The 10 gal tank is just fine for a one year old. As it starts growing you can move it up.

The undertank heater... Move it to one half of the tank even if you are wasting some of the mat. Hook up a rheostat and adjust it so the warm end is 80F at the surface. Make sure the mat has some space between the tank and the surface the tank is resting on.

Try Mazuri tortoise diet.

It sounds like your current set up is a little hot.

Make sure you soak the little guy daily.

Ed
Hiya Ed ~

Thanx a bunch for your various tips and words of advice! Yes, I've been soaking him often, and yes, the UTH is only at one side, the same side as his light.. Also, the entire tank is situated on some mugs that are very stable, {no worries about melting or catching fire} and that sits on top of my dining room table for now... he gets lots of attention :D

King Tortie is only in the tank when it is too cold for him to go outside, or if I am at school twice a week, so basically, the tank is his 'bedroom' so to speak. I have also made two sides opaque, so as to relieve the stress of being confined in glass, and he also has a half of a ceramic bowl in which to hide. I have a great cement-walled enclosure for outside and am in the process of making a 'lid' so that he can be out more as summer progresses and still be safe from predators.

Again, thanx so much ~
Purpod
 

Jentortmom

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Just make sure when you build that lid, so he can be safe from predators, he can't go under.
 

purpod

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jenrell23 said:
Just make sure when you build that lid, so he can be safe from predators, he can't go under.
Hiya again, Jenn ~
and yes, most certainly ~ his safety is first and foremost!

Enjoy your eve,
Purpod
 

Crazy1

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Purpod, I know you mentioned screen for his top. I suggest hardware cloth or chicken wire. Screen will also screen out alot of the uvb light you want him to get. I use the hardware cloth with the 1/2 inch holes on my hatchlings pen and chicken wire on the adults pen.
 

-EJ

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It sounds like you know what your doing.

Ed

purpod said:
-EJ said:
This isn't the first time you are going to encounter this...

The 10 gal tank is just fine for a one year old. As it starts growing you can move it up.

The undertank heater... Move it to one half of the tank even if you are wasting some of the mat. Hook up a rheostat and adjust it so the warm end is 80F at the surface. Make sure the mat has some space between the tank and the surface the tank is resting on.

Try Mazuri tortoise diet.

It sounds like your current set up is a little hot.

Make sure you soak the little guy daily.

Ed
Hiya Ed ~

Thanx a bunch for your various tips and words of advice! Yes, I've been soaking him often, and yes, the UTH is only at one side, the same side as his light.. Also, the entire tank is situated on some mugs that are very stable, {no worries about melting or catching fire} and that sits on top of my dining room table for now... he gets lots of attention :D

King Tortie is only in the tank when it is too cold for him to go outside, or if I am at school twice a week, so basically, the tank is his 'bedroom' so to speak. I have also made two sides opaque, so as to relieve the stress of being confined in glass, and he also has a half of a ceramic bowl in which to hide. I have a great cement-walled enclosure for outside and am in the process of making a 'lid' so that he can be out more as summer progresses and still be safe from predators.

Again, thanx so much ~
Purpod
 
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