Any tips on Raising a Sulcata?

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I Currently own a baby African Sulcata, he's about 10 months. So I understand he sleeps. I can't put him outside where I live at currently due to weed killer and such. But I keep him in mustard, collard, turnip and cactus pads. He gets soaked three times a week. And has uvb and heat lamp. But all in really looking for is tips and such with raising these. So far I haven't done anything wrong as far as care from what I've been told. But I'm always open to advice.
 

Tom

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Gillian M

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A very warm welcome to the forum! :D

Please post pics of your tort and his enclosure. This would enable us to help you and give you advise more easily. :)
 

Gillian M

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By the way, if you live in a place where the climate is dry, then I would suggest your soaking your tort each and every day.;)
 
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I let him outside and he gets different grasses and weeds in the yard. Also gets hibiscus leaves and flowers from time to time. I have a uvb and heat lamp combo hood. Nothing spectacular. But I paid 60 plus tax for it. Humidity levels usually from 50-80 and heat stays at about 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
 
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Here's what I have for him currently to stay in. I did have an actual enclosure but it was cheap and the lady I got it from wasn't much help about it.
 

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Tom

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I let him outside and he gets different grasses and weeds in the yard. Also gets hibiscus leaves and flowers from time to time. I have a uvb and heat lamp combo hood. Nothing spectacular. But I paid 60 plus tax for it. Humidity levels usually from 50-80 and heat stays at about 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

In the combo hood, what are you using for UV? Coil type cfl? Those can burn their eyes and they should not be used.

What are you using for night heat? They need it warm at night, but still dark.

Where is it 80 degrees? There are four temperatures to be concerned with: Warm side, cool side, basking area and overnight low.

All of this and more is explained in the links I posted above.
 
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The room I keep him in stays hot. So it doesn't go below 75 degrees. Which from what I read is fine. In regards to the four temps, I don't have a thermometer tocreallt get in debt with it. But I know one side of the enclosure is 80. Basking is 85. Humidity is 50-80 and I'm sure his cool temp is probably a bit lower than 80. Probably between 75-80
 

Tom

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The room I keep him in stays hot. So it doesn't go below 75 degrees. Which from what I read is fine. In regards to the four temps, I don't have a thermometer tocreallt get in debt with it. But I know one side of the enclosure is 80. Basking is 85. Humidity is 50-80 and I'm sure his cool temp is probably a bit lower than 80. Probably between 75-80

There is a lot of old, out-dated, incorrect info out there for people to read and do "research" on. Mixing advice can be deadly. The care sheets that advise 75 as a night temp, also advise a dry enclosure. 75 in a dry enclosure should be fine in most cases as far as keeping a tortoise from getting a respiratory infection, but the dryness will cause dehydration and pyramiding.

If you are going to use damp substrate to raise the humidity and reduce pyramiding, which is what you should be doing, then he needs to be kept warm at night. Around 80 is safe. I think 75 is pushing your luck. This is best accomplished with a ceramic heating element and a thermostat.

Basking temp directly under the bulb needs to be 95-100. This is to simulate the sun they would get outside and allow them to warm their body up to the correct operating temperature. 85 is too cool.

If you let him spend much time at 50% humidity, you are going to see some pyramiding. This will be irreversible, so best to prevent it.

You can find a decent thermometer for about $10, cheaper light fixtures that will work better for you, and cheaper heat bulbs at Home Depot. I would take that other stuff back to the pet store and explain why you are returning it.

Hope this helps.
 
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There is a lot of old, out-dated, incorrect info out there for people to read and do "research" on. Mixing advice can be deadly. The care sheets that advise 75 as a night temp, also advise a dry enclosure. 75 in a dry enclosure should be fine in most cases as far as keeping a tortoise from getting a respiratory infection, but the dryness will cause dehydration and pyramiding.

If you are going to use damp substrate to raise the humidity and reduce pyramiding, which is what you should be doing, then he needs to be kept warm at night. Around 80 is safe. I think 75 is pushing your luck. This is best accomplished with a ceramic heating element and a thermostat.

Basking temp directly under the bulb needs to be 95-100. This is to simulate the sun they would get outside and allow them to warm their body up to the correct operating temperature. 85 is too cool.

If you let him spend much time at 50% humidity, you are going to see some pyramiding. This will be irreversible, so best to prevent it.

You can find a decent thermometer for about $10, cheaper light fixtures that will work better for you, and cheaper heat bulbs at Home Depot. I would take that other stuff back to the pet store and explain why you are returning it.

Hope this helps.
You're advice is definitely greatly appreciated and helpful :)
 

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There is a lot of old, out-dated, incorrect info out there for people to read and do "research" on. Mixing advice can be deadly. The care sheets that advise 75 as a night temp, also advise a dry enclosure. 75 in a dry enclosure should be fine in most cases as far as keeping a tortoise from getting a respiratory infection, but the dryness will cause dehydration and pyramiding.

If you are going to use damp substrate to raise the humidity and reduce pyramiding, which is what you should be doing, then he needs to be kept warm at night. Around 80 is safe. I think 75 is pushing your luck. This is best accomplished with a ceramic heating element and a thermostat.

Basking temp directly under the bulb needs to be 95-100. This is to simulate the sun they would get outside and allow them to warm their body up to the correct operating temperature. 85 is too cool.

If you let him spend much time at 50% humidity, you are going to see some pyramiding. This will be irreversible, so best to prevent it.

You can find a decent thermometer for about $10, cheaper light fixtures that will work better for you, and cheaper heat bulbs at Home Depot. I would take that other stuff back to the pet store and explain why you are returning it.

Hope this helps.
I did have a question, I've seen people using the zoo med pellets for food as well. Or is it just better to keep him on a natural diet?
 

Tom

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I did have a question, I've seen people using the zoo med pellets for food as well. Or is it just better to keep him on a natural diet?

If you do a search for "Pellet" or something similar, you will find all sorts of discussion on this matter. Here is my take:
I think ZooMed or Mazuri pellets are a good supplement to an otherwise varied diet. ZooMed pellets are great for amending grocery store produce and making it better for our tortoises.

With some effort and a good diet, pellets are not "necessary", but I think there is benefit to feeding them to a tortoise. Mazuri is a good protein source and since it is balanced tortoise nutrition, it will ensure that there are no minor nutrient deficiencies in your tortoise's diet. Its also good to have some pelleted food around for those times when you run out of greens and don't have time to go get more.
 

BrianWI

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I would agree with Tom. Commercial diets are an excellent parts of a great diet. The round out nutrition, filling in any gaps you may have in your fresh portion, especially if you are feeding in winter. I do believe fresh plants and grasses are also beneficial as they are "living" foods.

I have looked at the formulation of some tortoise foods now. I was interested due to some being called bad, full of sugar, etc. I didn't find this to be true at all. While some were more complete, I didn't see any that were terrible and they would be good additions as a part of the diet.
 
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I would agree with Tom. Commercial diets are an excellent parts of a great diet. The round out nutrition, filling in any gaps you may have in your fresh portion, especially if you are feeding in winter. I do believe fresh plants and grasses are also beneficial as they are "living" foods.

I have looked at the formulation of some tortoise foods now. I was interested due to some being called bad, full of sugar, etc. I didn't find this to be true at all. While some were more complete, I didn't see any that were terrible and they would be good additions as a part of the diet.
I went today and get the grassland pellets by zoomed. My tortoise hasn't really touched them. But what I'm considering doing is chopping or grinding them up and mixing them in with his little salad of greens I make him every day.
 

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