Baby Red Foot Question - Dry Head… shedding?

repti_papa

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Hello!

SO EXCITED to have a red foot in the family. My kids latest addition is a little Red Foot. We currently have him in a 40 gallon with a focus on maintaining adequate heat gradient, humidity, UVB, diet and sleep. This site has been so helpful.

One question I do have is regarding this little guys head, is he shedding? is this normal looking for his age? We literally just picked him up last week. His weight is 45 grams.

Any thoughts on its health/appearance are welcomed, just want to give it the best possible care in captivity! :)

The last photo is a pic from the seller (reptile store) and after looking around at pics, it’s shell makes me wonder if it’s a yellow foot… cause the red foots shells seem to have much more black…

Sorry for pic quality, it’s sleeping now and don’t want to disturb for a better pic.
 

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wellington

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Looks fine to me but I don't have RF.
However he has started some pyramiding already. Get him in a closed chamber with high humidity asap so you can stop the pyramiding and grow him out smooth.
@ZEROPILOT can help more.
 

repti_papa

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Thank you, and also - sorry since I couldn’t see my original post I made a second one before realizing this one went through, can someone remove my second post, thanks.
 

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repti_papa

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Absolutely don’t want pyramiding :(

Currently have him in a 36 x 18 x 18 exo terra with front opening doors, I am struggling to get the humidity fro 50 to 70 average. I’ve added a bunch of sphagnum moss to help, but I probably need to get the UVB/heat source inside so I can close off the top. I also have a mist king that I’m working towards getting a couple nozzles into the tank.
 

ZEROPILOT

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Absolutely don’t want pyramiding :(

Currently have him in a 36 x 18 x 18 exo terra with front opening doors, I am struggling to get the humidity fro 50 to 70 average. I’ve added a bunch of sphagnum moss to help, but I probably need to get the UVB/heat source inside so I can close off the top. I also have a mist king that I’m working towards getting a couple nozzles into the tank.
He's a Redfoot.
Keep that humidity up 24/7 and keep your temperatures between 80 and 85 to help avoid any issues early on
 

TammyJ

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He needs at least 80 percent humidity and what's that substrate? The water pool needs to be sunk further down into whatever substrate you will end up using.
 

ZEROPILOT

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A heat gradient isn't neccesary with a RF
He needs ambient warmth. The entire enclosure of a similar temperature.
80 to 85
What are your lights? I ask because there are types (like an MVB) That cause drying of the skin and shell. And also burn off moisture too quickly.
They're also too bright for this shade loving species....
Just a guess.
Sorry about my previous incomplete answer.
 

repti_papa

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Great replies, thank you everyone.

I’m so used to lizards and snakes, this really is a new obstacle for me.

By 50 to 70 I meant that I currently observe averages of 50, but trying to get it up to 70. Thank you for helping me to increase the target to 80-85 in terms of humidity.

That light is a 36” UVB Zoo Med T5 HO 5.0 hood. But for heat I have a 100w Flukers Basking Bulb.

I really stress about providing pristine husbandry to our pets, especially this guy that will be around for generations and I really appreciate the help.

The substrate is Jurassic Coco Fibre Brock that expanded with water. I am normally used to bioactive enclosures with CUC, I am really outside my element.

If I were to maintain this 36x18 enclosure, perhaps I can put a heat source and UVB beneath the screen top, and cover with a barrier to make it more of a chamber to achieve the 80% humidity and 80-85f.
 

ZEROPILOT

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Also, 80-85f during the day time 12h cycle, is there a night time drop off range?
That UVB light is fantastic. But I'd swap out the basking light for a CHE (CERAMIC HEAT EMITTER) Because it provides heat night and day without any additional light.
 

repti_papa

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That UVB light is fantastic. But I'd swap out the basking light for a CHE (CERAMIC HEAT EMITTER) Because it provides heat night and day without any additional light.
awesome, thanks @ZEROPILOT

I actually also have a exoterra 600w thermostat day/night pulse/dimming that I use with a deep heat emitter for night time heat not to drop below 75. I’ll use this in lieu of the basking bulb for daytime heat 80-85 then for nighttime heat also, what temp should be for night time? Maintain the 80-85? Thanks!
 

ZEROPILOT

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awesome, thanks @ZEROPILOT

I actually also have a exoterra 600w thermostat day/night pulse/dimming that I use with a deep heat emitter for night time heat not to drop below 75. I’ll use this in lieu of the basking bulb for daytime heat 80-85 then for nighttime heat also, what temp should be for night time? Maintain the 80-85? Thanks!
Your night time heat source needs to give off no light.
 

zolasmum

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You mention sphagnum moss - I don't think this is recommended, as the tortoise may eat it, and it can cause major problems with blockages. However, he looks lovely - have you a name for him yet ?
Angie
 

MenagerieGrl

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Yes, I'd swap out the sphagnum moss for fine Orchid Bark, and pour water on it so the lower stratification has plenty of moisture to give Off to jack the humidity levels up to a higher value.
 

repti_papa

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You mention sphagnum moss - I don't think this is recommended, as the tortoise may eat it, and it can cause major problems with blockages. However, he looks lovely - have you a name for him yet ?
Angie
Thank you!! I relocated the sphagnum moss into the hides where it cannot be accessed but still help with humidity :)
 

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