Baby sulcata not eating? Pls help

[unconscientiousyam]

Hello there,

I’m new to having a tort so suggestions and advice are most definitely welcome.

I got my baby sulcata last Friday. For the past few days he has not been eating very well.. I don’t know what else I should do to stimulate an appetite? I’ve read all the posted sticky threads on how to care for torts, etc. I feel like maybe he’s just adjusting to the new environment? How long does it usually take for a tort to get used to the new environment? Pictures were taken today.

substrate - eco earth coco fiber

Friday: brought him home around 10pm. Night time temp in the tank was around 65degrees bc I used a heating mat (which sucks btw) and the temp freaked me out so I bought a CHE bulb to install (it came in Sunday). Not a lot of humidity.

Saturday: Daytime basking area was 100-105 degrees, rest of the tank was 70 degrees. I keep the daytime bulbs (basking & uvb) for 12 hrs. Soaked for 30min in warm water. Tried to feed him romaine but he didn’t like. Nighttime temp was around 65 degrees. Not a lot of humidity.

Sunday: My CHE finally came in, so I installed that. Daytime temp was 100-105 in basking area & 80-85 in the cooler side. Soaked for 30 min in warm water. Tried to feed him romaine but he didn’t want it :-(. Nighttime temp was 75-77 degrees throughout enclosure. Humidity around 40%

Monday: Daytime temp 100-105 bask/uvb side, 77-80 cooler side. Soaked for 30 min. Tried giving him spring mix.. he actually ate like 2-3 bites on a leaf so I was happy.. but he didn’t eat much else. Night time is 75-77 degrees. Humidity around 40-50% (I tried to spray more)

Today: Daytime temp 100-105 bask/uvb side, 80 cooler side. Soaked for 40min in water + babyfood (carrot) for extra vitamin. I gave him spring mix but he has not touched it. Humidity at around 70-80% (dampened his substrate and sprayed enclosure)

He has a glass tank enclosure, CHE bulb, uvb bulb (spiral one), and basking bulb. I cover the top with aluminum foil used for home insulation to keep the humidity in. I have a therm & hygrometer to keep track of temp & humidity. I also use a temp gun to monitor temps inside all day..

I’ve been taking him out of the enclosure to soak him daily and to try to feed him. Maybe he’s shy or scared around me so doesn’t want to each much. Is it best to give him space (only handle him to soak in daily bath)?

Also I have not seen him poop these past few days...

I was thinking that the first 2 nights I got him, he was in a colder environment so it might’ve messed his appetite up.. could that be it?

 

[unconscientiousyam]

Hi everyone, he finally ate. I came back to check up on him and noticed the food pile was significantly less. I'm so happy!! I'll try to sneak some smushed Mazuri pellets into his diet so he gets more nutrients.

 

[Maggie3fan]

Hi everyone, he finally ate. I came back to check up on him and noticed the food pile was significantly less. I'm so happy!! I'll try to sneak some smushed Mazuri pellets into his diet so he gets more nutrients.

You need to bring your ambient temperature up to closer to 80. That baby is too cold and I see a lack of humidity in the look of his carapace

 

[unconscientiousyam]

You need to bring your ambient temperature up to closer to 80. That baby is too cold and I see a lack of humidity in the look of his carapace

hello, thank you the reply ☺️ The ambient temp is actually ~80ish, 78% humidity (the pic included says that). I’ll spray more to get the humidity up for tonight though.

 

[Tom]

hello, thank you the reply ☺ The ambient temp is actually ~80ish, 78% humidity (the pic included says that). I’ll spray more to get the humidity up for tonight though.

You've read the care sheet, but you didn't/aren't following it. Simply do what it says and your baby will have the best chance of survival. This many days in a cold dry tank with moss, and frankly, we are just guessing if it will survive.

The biggest problem is that almost all breeders do not start them correctly. Few of them survive because of this, even when the new owner does everything perfectly. When the new owner lets them get into the 60s at night, it can be a death sentence.

Here is the care info. Please ask questions after reading. We want to help your baby survive and thrive.

The Best Way To Raise A Sulcata, Leopard, Or Star Tortoise

I chose the title of this care sheet very carefully. Are there other ways to raise babies? Yes. Yes there are, but those ways are not as good. What follows is the BEST way, according to 30 years of research and experimentation with hundreds of babies of many species. Babies hatch during the...

tortoiseforum.org

Also, there are four elements to heating and lighting:

1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. You'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night.
3. Light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in bulb types are both fine.
4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. If you want it anyway, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html

 

[unconscientiousyam]

You've read the care sheet, but you didn't/aren't following it. Simply do what it says and your baby will have the best chance of survival. This many days in a cold dry tank with moss, and frankly, we are just guessing if it will survive.

The biggest problem is that almost all breeders do not start them correctly. Few of them survive because of this, even when the new owner does everything perfectly. When the new owner lets them get into the 60s at night, it can be a death sentence.

Here is the care info. Please ask questions after reading. We want to help your baby survive and thrive.

The Best Way To Raise A Sulcata, Leopard, Or Star Tortoise

I chose the title of this care sheet very carefully. Are there other ways to raise babies? Yes. Yes there are, but those ways are not as good. What follows is the BEST way, according to 30 years of research and experimentation with hundreds of babies of many species. Babies hatch during the...

tortoiseforum.org

Also, there are four elements to heating and lighting:

1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. You'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night.
3. Light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in bulb types are both fine.
4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. If you want it anyway, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html

Hi Tom, thank you for the reply!! I really appreciate it.

Yes, I know I started off the few days bad especially with the temp ? once I corrected that, I feel like that’s the reason why he started eating.

However, my tank is now at basking & uvb side is at 100-105 & cool side is around 80 for 13 hrs using a CHE. Then night time at 75-77, CHE is on all day. I try keep humidity at least 70% (I cover the top with holes for the lighting to keep humidity in). I also regularly check the temp with my temp gun & I have thermometers and hygrometer that are used as well. Should I include a LED bulb for light too? I think there is enough light from the basking & UVB though.

I’m probably going to let him sunbathe more when it gets warmer out. Where I live, it’s about 55 degrees and cloudy with some sun so I think it might be too cold for him right?

 

[unconscientiousyam]

Oh and one more thing, I’m using the UVB bulb that’s kinda swirly right now. I should switch to a different one right? I don’t want to hurt my tort’s eyes.

 

[Tom]

Hi Tom, thank you for the reply!! I really appreciate it.

Yes, I know I started off the few days bad especially with the temp ? once I corrected that, I feel like that’s the reason why he started eating.

However, my tank is now at basking & uvb side is at 100-105 & cool side is around 80 for 13 hrs using a CHE. Then night time at 75-77, CHE is on all day. I try keep humidity at least 70% (I cover the top with holes for the lighting to keep humidity in). I also regularly check the temp with my temp gun & I have thermometers and hygrometer that are used as well. Should I include a LED bulb for light too? I think there is enough light from the basking & UVB though.

I’m probably going to let him sunbathe more when it gets warmer out. Where I live, it’s about 55 degrees and cloudy with some sun so I think it might be too cold for him right?

Nowhere in the whole enclosure should ever drop below 80. 75 at night is too cool.

80 is the minimum ambient temp. It should climb into the high 80s or low 90s each day, in addition to a basking area that is 95-100.

Turn off the cfl UV bulb and don't use those.

 

[unconscientiousyam]

Nowhere in the whole enclosure should ever drop below 80. 75 at night is too cool.

80 is the minimum ambient temp. It should climb into the high 80s or low 90s each day, in addition to a basking area that is 95-100.

Turn off the cfl UV bulb and don't use those.

Got it, I will get a new bulb for UV and up the temps.