Team Gomberg said:I love your betta info starsapphire
Fish were my big love before tortoises. Especially fancy goldfish and bettas. Both very misrepresented (and often abused) creatures...but SO worth it, when cared for properly.
StarSapphire22 said:Bettas are a lot more complicated than people think they are. Yes, they can survive in a bowl with no heat or filter, but it is SURVIVING, not THRIVING.
My top recommendations for bettas:
1) A minimum of a five gallon tank. Contrary to popular belief, they also do well in larger spaces...they're a lot like tortoises in that they cover a lot of territory each day, compared to their size. 5-10 gallons is ideal. I like this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FJ9SDC/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 It's long in length and short in height. Bettas prefer lengthwise swimming over height...in the wild they live in rice paddies, etc and are used to fairly shallow water and in fact breathe from the surface with what is called a labrynth organ. Their gills are innefficient (like breathing through a straw) so it's important they have easy, unrestricted access to the air at the top of the tank.
2) A lid/hood covering as much of the top as possible. Bettas can jump when water conditions are unsuitable, or even if they're bored. Make sure they stay in by using a lid/hood. Just make sure there's about 1/2" of space between the water surface and the lid for breathing.
3) A filter with adjustable flow. Filtering not only helps keep the water clean, it aerates it and puts more oxygen in the water for your fish to breathe. Since bettas are already inefficient breathers, this helps them out quite a bit, and reduces trips to the surface. However, bettas have long flowy fins and if the current is too strong they can get knocked around pretty easily. My absolute favorite filter line in the world is this one, and it just happens to be perfect for bettas. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
4) A heater. Bettas are tropical fish. They DO need heat, at about 76-78 degrees. This helps them digest their food properly, and reduces intestinal upsets. Having a betta setup be properly heated will also shorten their lifespan by a few months to a year, but it is a MUCH better quality of life, instead of longer quantity. Would you want to live your whole life with a tummyache and poor nutrition?
5) High quality betta/carnivorous food, namely pellets. Bettas are carnivores, so your standard tropical fish foods won't cut it. Buy something specifically formulated for bettas or carnivorous fish. Pellets are best...they are more nutritionally dense, better for your water quality, and easier for your fish to eat/digest. I recommend this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038JTL1Y/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 Freeze-dried or frozen bloodworms are also a great occasional treat (no more than once a day). 4-5 pellets should be given daily, either once each day or split into two feedings.
6) Plants. Live or fake doesn't matter, just make sure there's some in there, and at least one should be broadleafed, for them to rest on. They are used to heavily planted environments, like rice paddies and swamps, in the wild.
7) No other fish. Bettas are aggressive. They don't do well with other fish 9 times out of 10. Not of their own species, or any others. Once in a while it does work, but it's a lot of work if you need to separate them, and fish can die from wounds or stress. Please don't buy him a mirror either. It's not exercise, it's cruel. In my opinion, they are just fine on their own. If you MUST put something in their with him, a mystery or apple snail is a great choice. An African Dwarf Frog usually works out too.
8) Water changes must be done at least weekly in a filtered, properly setup environment. 50% each week is usually pretty good. If you decided to ignore everything I said and put him in a small bowl, then you need to do 100% every day, no excuses. I really recommend the Seachem Prime formula of water conditioner. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255PFI/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
9) Watch out for sharp edges. Flowy fins snag easily and can get stuck in small holes, etc. Check decorations you buy carefully before purchasing.
10) Avoid products with "slime coat" additives, aloe, Pimafix, Melafix, etc. These will coat the labrynth organ and he will be unable to breathe.
Fish in general are not a simple pet. You literally have to create an entire universe and atmosphere for them. That being said, bettas are the easiest and hardiest fish you can keep and are a great choice for beginner aquarists. They are full of personality and super fun! As long as you do your research and keep up on maintenance you should have a great little fin-kid. Good luck!
StarSapphire22 said:Bettas are a lot more complicated than people think they are. Yes, they can survive in a bowl with no heat or filter, but it is SURVIVING, not THRIVING.
My top recommendations for bettas:
1) A minimum of a five gallon tank. Contrary to popular belief, they also do well in larger spaces...they're a lot like tortoises in that they cover a lot of territory each day, compared to their size. 5-10 gallons is ideal. I like this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FJ9SDC/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 It's long in length and short in height. Bettas prefer lengthwise swimming over height...in the wild they live in rice paddies, etc and are used to fairly shallow water and in fact breathe from the surface with what is called a labrynth organ. Their gills are innefficient (like breathing through a straw) so it's important they have easy, unrestricted access to the air at the top of the tank.
2) A lid/hood covering as much of the top as possible. Bettas can jump when water conditions are unsuitable, or even if they're bored. Make sure they stay in by using a lid/hood. Just make sure there's about 1/2" of space between the water surface and the lid for breathing.
3) A filter with adjustable flow. Filtering not only helps keep the water clean, it aerates it and puts more oxygen in the water for your fish to breathe. Since bettas are already inefficient breathers, this helps them out quite a bit, and reduces trips to the surface. However, bettas have long flowy fins and if the current is too strong they can get knocked around pretty easily. My absolute favorite filter line in the world is this one, and it just happens to be perfect for bettas. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
4) A heater. Bettas are tropical fish. They DO need heat, at about 76-78 degrees. This helps them digest their food properly, and reduces intestinal upsets. Having a betta setup be properly heated will also shorten their lifespan by a few months to a year, but it is a MUCH better quality of life, instead of longer quantity. Would you want to live your whole life with a tummyache and poor nutrition?
5) High quality betta/carnivorous food, namely pellets. Bettas are carnivores, so your standard tropical fish foods won't cut it. Buy something specifically formulated for bettas or carnivorous fish. Pellets are best...they are more nutritionally dense, better for your water quality, and easier for your fish to eat/digest. I recommend this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038JTL1Y/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 Freeze-dried or frozen bloodworms are also a great occasional treat (no more than once a day). 4-5 pellets should be given daily, either once each day or split into two feedings.
6) Plants. Live or fake doesn't matter, just make sure there's some in there, and at least one should be broadleafed, for them to rest on. They are used to heavily planted environments, like rice paddies and swamps, in the wild.
7) No other fish. Bettas are aggressive. They don't do well with other fish 9 times out of 10. Not of their own species, or any others. Once in a while it does work, but it's a lot of work if you need to separate them, and fish can die from wounds or stress. Please don't buy him a mirror either. It's not exercise, it's cruel. In my opinion, they are just fine on their own. If you MUST put something in their with him, a mystery or apple snail is a great choice. An African Dwarf Frog usually works out too.
8) Water changes must be done at least weekly in a filtered, properly setup environment. 50% each week is usually pretty good. If you decided to ignore everything I said and put him in a small bowl, then you need to do 100% every day, no excuses. I really recommend the Seachem Prime formula of water conditioner. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255PFI/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
9) Watch out for sharp edges. Flowy fins snag easily and can get stuck in small holes, etc. Check decorations you buy carefully before purchasing.
10) Avoid products with "slime coat" additives, aloe, Pimafix, Melafix, etc. These will coat the labrynth organ and he will be unable to breathe.
Fish in general are not a simple pet. You literally have to create an entire universe and atmosphere for them. That being said, bettas are the easiest and hardiest fish you can keep and are a great choice for beginner aquarists. They are full of personality and super fun! As long as you do your research and keep up on maintenance you should have a great little fin-kid. Good luck!
Sulcata_Sandy said:StarSapphire22 said:Bettas are a lot more complicated than people think they are. Yes, they can survive in a bowl with no heat or filter, but it is SURVIVING, not THRIVING.
My top recommendations for bettas:
1) A minimum of a five gallon tank. Contrary to popular belief, they also do well in larger spaces...they're a lot like tortoises in that they cover a lot of territory each day, compared to their size. 5-10 gallons is ideal. I like this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FJ9SDC/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 It's long in length and short in height. Bettas prefer lengthwise swimming over height...in the wild they live in rice paddies, etc and are used to fairly shallow water and in fact breathe from the surface with what is called a labrynth organ. Their gills are innefficient (like breathing through a straw) so it's important they have easy, unrestricted access to the air at the top of the tank.
2) A lid/hood covering as much of the top as possible. Bettas can jump when water conditions are unsuitable, or even if they're bored. Make sure they stay in by using a lid/hood. Just make sure there's about 1/2" of space between the water surface and the lid for breathing.
3) A filter with adjustable flow. Filtering not only helps keep the water clean, it aerates it and puts more oxygen in the water for your fish to breathe. Since bettas are already inefficient breathers, this helps them out quite a bit, and reduces trips to the surface. However, bettas have long flowy fins and if the current is too strong they can get knocked around pretty easily. My absolute favorite filter line in the world is this one, and it just happens to be perfect for bettas. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
4) A heater. Bettas are tropical fish. They DO need heat, at about 76-78 degrees. This helps them digest their food properly, and reduces intestinal upsets. Having a betta setup be properly heated will also shorten their lifespan by a few months to a year, but it is a MUCH better quality of life, instead of longer quantity. Would you want to live your whole life with a tummyache and poor nutrition?
5) High quality betta/carnivorous food, namely pellets. Bettas are carnivores, so your standard tropical fish foods won't cut it. Buy something specifically formulated for bettas or carnivorous fish. Pellets are best...they are more nutritionally dense, better for your water quality, and easier for your fish to eat/digest. I recommend this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038JTL1Y/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 Freeze-dried or frozen bloodworms are also a great occasional treat (no more than once a day). 4-5 pellets should be given daily, either once each day or split into two feedings.
6) Plants. Live or fake doesn't matter, just make sure there's some in there, and at least one should be broadleafed, for them to rest on. They are used to heavily planted environments, like rice paddies and swamps, in the wild.
7) No other fish. Bettas are aggressive. They don't do well with other fish 9 times out of 10. Not of their own species, or any others. Once in a while it does work, but it's a lot of work if you need to separate them, and fish can die from wounds or stress. Please don't buy him a mirror either. It's not exercise, it's cruel. In my opinion, they are just fine on their own. If you MUST put something in their with him, a mystery or apple snail is a great choice. An African Dwarf Frog usually works out too.
8) Water changes must be done at least weekly in a filtered, properly setup environment. 50% each week is usually pretty good. If you decided to ignore everything I said and put him in a small bowl, then you need to do 100% every day, no excuses. I really recommend the Seachem Prime formula of water conditioner. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255PFI/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
9) Watch out for sharp edges. Flowy fins snag easily and can get stuck in small holes, etc. Check decorations you buy carefully before purchasing.
10) Avoid products with "slime coat" additives, aloe, Pimafix, Melafix, etc. These will coat the labrynth organ and he will be unable to breathe.
Fish in general are not a simple pet. You literally have to create an entire universe and atmosphere for them. That being said, bettas are the easiest and hardiest fish you can keep and are a great choice for beginner aquarists. They are full of personality and super fun! As long as you do your research and keep up on maintenance you should have a great little fin-kid. Good luck!
AMEN!!!!!
Betta (and please don't pronounce it BAY-tah) are TROPICAL and need warm water and oxygenated water to thrive. They are hardy yes, but do you want your Betta to survive or THRIVE?
I've had many my entire life, and this is the first time I've been without.
I love them. Once you are setup, like tortoises, easy to maintain. So excited for you!!!! They are my favorite fishes
Team Gomberg said:
Sulcata_Sandy said:
