Burmese Star

[rachelraines]

Hi guys!! I’m getting my four month old Burmese star tomorrow!! I have been testing out the enclosure today checking humidity and temperature ranges. This may sound like a silly question but I want to prevent pyramiding as much as possibly- I know humidity, temperature, and diet has a lot to do with it. In terms of diet, I know that their protein intake should be minimal but what is considered protein for a tortoise? Also, would you guys recommend leaving the UVB light on all times and turning on the basking one at night? Vise versa? Turning them both off? Leaving them both on? I’m so nervous and want to make sure I’m doing everything correctly. I will be keeping it in my heated sunroom ensuring the room itself stays very warm. I have a closed shallow enclosure for now and I’m going to get some live plants to help with humidity. Do you guys have any suggestions on plants you guys like? How do you treat them before putting them in the enclosure with your tort? Sorry this is a lot of rambling and questions but like I said - new mom here!

 

[rachelraines]

Hi guys!! I’m getting my four month old Burmese star tomorrow!! I have been testing out the enclosure today checking humidity and temperature ranges. This may sound like a silly question but I want to prevent pyramiding as much as possibly- I know humidity, temperature, and diet has a lot to do with it. In terms of diet, I know that their protein intake should be minimal but what is considered protein for a tortoise? Also, would you guys recommend leaving the UVB light on all times and turning on the basking one at night? Vise versa? Turning them both off? leaving them both on? I also have a safe outdoor setup that he/she can have supervised access to every day if that changes how often I should have the bulbs on. I’m so nervous and want to make sure I’m doing everything correctly. I will be keeping it in my heated sunroom ensuring the room itself stays very warm. I have a closed shallow enclosure for now and I’m going to get some live plants to help with humidity. Do you guys have any suggestions on plants you guys like? How do you treat them before putting them in the enclosure with your tort? Also best way to bond with a baby who just got shipped to you. I will soak it when I get it- but after that should I leave it alone? Try to hand feed it to bond? Sorry this is a lot of rambling and questions but like I said - new mom here! yall will be hearing a lot from me from here on out

 

[Alex and the Redfoot]

Hello!

1. UVB lamp should be on for 4-6 hours around midday (adjust timings a little to include morning basking time).
2. No lights should be on at night. To maintain temperature use ceramic heat emitters or radiant heat panels on a thermostat (they give off heat and no light).
3. Pyramiding happens when new keratin growth dries too quick. So good hydration - humidity and soakings with correct heating and lightning are the only way to prevent it. Protein intake is not causing pyramiding, however accelerated growth in wrong conditions will result in more pronounced shell bumps (and this will be the least important problem).
4. Stars a herbivorous, so when we talk about protein intake only plant-based protein matters. Some plants have higher protein contents (like alfalfa or clover). You need a balanced diet with decent amount of fiber and calcium and good variety. This will ensure fast growth with good bone density.

Most of your questions are answered here:
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/info-for-new-people-please-read-this-first.202363/ (check Lightning/Heating Breakdown section for details on timers, lamps and such). Give this post a thoughtful read and then proceed with sulcatas and stars care sheet (it's linked at the bottom of that post).

 

[wellington]

Humidity is prevented by using a closed chamber enclosure for around 2-3 years with high humidity and not using the wrong bulbs.
Do not use a mercury vapor bulb, no halogen bulbs and no cfl/coil type bulbs.
Be careful having it in a sun room if you can't control the heat of that room.

 

[rachelraines]

Humidity is prevented by using a closed chamber enclosure for around 2-3 years with high humidity and not using the wrong bulbs.
Do not use a mercury vapor bulb, no halogen bulbs and no cfl/coil type bulbs.
Be careful having it in a sun room if you can't control the heat of that room.

Luckily the sunroom has amazing shades on all the window and its own thermostat- but I will be cautious! Thank you !

 

[wellington]

Yes, soak him first thing in warm water for about 30 minutes keeping water warm
Then let him be in his enclosure with some food.
Hand feeding can be a problem with little ones. It can get them to only eat if hand fed or to want to bite at fingers. I do not suggest hand feeding. Interaction will happen when you do feed, change water, soak and if you take him out just to hold for a bit.
Once he is older then hand feeding a treat like his favorite food would be fine and shouldn't cause any problems.

 

[The_Four_Toed_Edward]

Spider plant and pothos are commonly used. It's good practice to have grown outside the enclosure to take cuttings from. It's best to wash the plant (including roots) and plant it into a soil free from pesticides and fertilizers after buying and wait for new growth to cut for the enclosure. Once established, you can place these cuttings in pots sunken into the substrate.

How much do you plan on having him outside? It depends but you might not need the UVB light on some days or weeks at all.

 

[rachelraines]

I’m thinking a couple of hours a day it weather permits!

 

[wellington]

I’m thinking a couple of hours a day it weather permits!

At this size, a half hour to an hour would be best. As he gets bigger, then more time can be added.
I would get the proper uvb light and have it set up and ready. In the weeks you can't get him outside then use the light. Only 3 -4 times a week for the 30-60 minutes outside is enough to not have to use the light.
Just be careful that there is lots of shade as hatchlings can over heat very quickly.

 

[Tom]

Hi guys!! I’m getting my four month old Burmese star tomorrow!! I have been testing out the enclosure today checking humidity and temperature ranges. This may sound like a silly question but I want to prevent pyramiding as much as possibly- I know humidity, temperature, and diet has a lot to do with it. In terms of diet, I know that their protein intake should be minimal but what is considered protein for a tortoise? Also, would you guys recommend leaving the UVB light on all times and turning on the basking one at night? Vise versa? Turning them both off? Leaving them both on? I’m so nervous and want to make sure I’m doing everything correctly. I will be keeping it in my heated sunroom ensuring the room itself stays very warm. I have a closed shallow enclosure for now and I’m going to get some live plants to help with humidity. Do you guys have any suggestions on plants you guys like? How do you treat them before putting them in the enclosure with your tort? Sorry this is a lot of rambling and questions but like I said - new mom here!

Alex spelled it out very well. Pyramiding is caused by growth in conditions that are too dry. It has nothing to do with protein or calcium or UV. That is old incorrect info and its everywhere. Use a closed chamber with the heating and lighting inside to keep humidity up over 80% all the time, day and night.

Lights need to be off at night. Keep it warm at night with a CHE or RHP and a thermostat.

Here is a breakdown of the four heating and lighting essentials:

1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night. Some people in colder climates or with larger enclosures will need multiple CHEs or RHPs to spread out enough heat.
3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.

Decorative plants are grown with systemic toxic pesticides. The toxins are absorbed from the soil and incorporated into the plants tissues. They can't be treated. You'll need to re-plant them in pesticide free soil and wait a few months to use them for the pesticides to dissipate. Its easier to grow your own from seed, or from cuttings of older, long-established plants. Pothos and spider plants are easy favorites. Some people use Boston ferns, but I have yet to try those.

Just to make it easy, here is the correct care info again for reference:

The Best Way To Raise A Sulcata, Leopard, Or Star Tortoise

I chose the title of this care sheet very carefully. Are there other ways to raise babies? Yes. Yes there are, but those ways are not as good. What follows is the BEST way, according to 30 years of research and experimentation with hundreds of babies of many species. Babies hatch during the...

tortoiseforum.org

Info For New People. Please Read This First.

Hello and welcome to tortoiseforum.org! We are all glad you are here! There is no other forum like this anywhere. We have tens of thousands of members from all over the world ranging from kids with their first tortoise to people who have been breeding and keeping high end tortoises since the...

tortoiseforum.org

 

[rachelraines]

Alex spelled it out very well. Pyramiding is caused by growth in conditions that are too dry. It has nothing to do with protein or calcium or UV. That is old incorrect info and its everywhere. Use a closed chamber with the heating and lighting inside to keep humidity up over 80% all the time, day and night.

Lights need to be off at night. Keep it warm at night with a CHE or RHP and a thermostat.

Here is a breakdown of the four heating and lighting essentials:

1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night. Some people in colder climates or with larger enclosures will need multiple CHEs or RHPs to spread out enough heat.
3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.

Decorative plants are grown with systemic toxic pesticides. The toxins are absorbed from the soil and incorporated into the plants tissues. They can't be treated. You'll need to re-plant them in pesticide free soil and wait a few months to use them for the pesticides to dissipate. Its easier to grow your own from seed, or from cuttings of older, long-established plants. Pothos and spider plants are easy favorites. Some people use Boston ferns, but I have yet to try those.

Just to make it easy, here is the correct care info again for reference:

The Best Way To Raise A Sulcata, Leopard, Or Star Tortoise

I chose the title of this care sheet very carefully. Are there other ways to raise babies? Yes. Yes there are, but those ways are not as good. What follows is the BEST way, according to 30 years of research and experimentation with hundreds of babies of many species. Babies hatch during the...

tortoiseforum.org

Info For New People. Please Read This First.

Hello and welcome to tortoiseforum.org! We are all glad you are here! There is no other forum like this anywhere. We have tens of thousands of members from all over the world ranging from kids with their first tortoise to people who have been breeding and keeping high end tortoises since the...

tortoiseforum.org

Tom, thank you so much! I have read your guide 6 times and will probably read it another 600 times! I can’t wait! Thanks so much

 

[Tom]

Hi guys!! I’m getting my four month old Burmese star tomorrow!! I have been testing out the enclosure today checking humidity and temperature ranges. This may sound like a silly question but I want to prevent pyramiding as much as possibly- I know humidity, temperature, and diet has a lot to do with it. In terms of diet, I know that their protein intake should be minimal but what is considered protein for a tortoise? Also, would you guys recommend leaving the UVB light on all times and turning on the basking one at night? Vise versa? Turning them both off? leaving them both on? I also have a safe outdoor setup that he/she can have supervised access to every day if that changes how often I should have the bulbs on. I’m so nervous and want to make sure I’m doing everything correctly. I will be keeping it in my heated sunroom ensuring the room itself stays very warm. I have a closed shallow enclosure for now and I’m going to get some live plants to help with humidity. Do you guys have any suggestions on plants you guys like? How do you treat them before putting them in the enclosure with your tort? Also best way to bond with a baby who just got shipped to you. I will soak it when I get it- but after that should I leave it alone? Try to hand feed it to bond? Sorry this is a lot of rambling and questions but like I said - new mom here! yall will be hearing a lot from me from here on out

These are good questions.

Pyramiding is caused by growth in conditions that are too dry. It has nothing to do with protein or calcium or UV. That is old incorrect info and its everywhere. Use a closed chamber with the heating and lighting inside to keep humidity up over 80% all the time, day and night. If by "shallow container" you mean an open topped sweater box, or something similar, it is not going to work well. You need a large closed chamber to keep humidity and warmth up. Plants won't do much for humidity if the top is open. Having an open top is like trying to heat your house in winter with no roof. Your heater can run all night, but the warm air will just drift up into the night sky unimpeded. You need a roof. I prefer to use large closed chambers made of expanded PVC because it is a good insulator, completely inert and non-toxic, and it is permanently impervious to water. You will eventually need something like this for winter housing in your area. For the time being, many people like to use a cheap portable greenhouse tent to cover the enclosure and help hold in heat and humidity. It doesn't work as well as a proper closed chamber enclosure, but its better than a wide open top.

What are the temperatures in the sun room? "Warm" doesn't tell us anything. If you are from Alaska, 40 degrees is warm. It needs to be over 80 degrees day and night, and low 90s is good for a daytime high as the room warms up.

Lights need to be off at night. Keep it warm at night with a CHE or RHP and a thermostat. Some outside time will be good, but you still need the heating and lighting inside. I switch off the lights inside when the tortoise is outside in its sunning enclosure.

Here is a breakdown of the four heating and lighting essentials:

1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night. Some people in colder climates or with larger enclosures will need multiple CHEs or RHPs to spread out enough heat.
3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.

Decorative plants are grown with systemic toxic pesticides. The toxins are absorbed from the soil and incorporated into the plants tissues. They can't be treated. You'll need to re-plant them in pesticide free soil and wait a few months to use them for the pesticides to dissipate. Its easier to grow your own from seed, or from cuttings of older, long-established plants. Pothos and spider plants are easy favorites. Some people use Boston ferns, but I have yet to try those.

Soak the tortoise daily, including day one, and leave it alone for a few days. Do your daily soaks, but don't mess with it too much. You can try to hand feed for a minute, but I wouldn't spend too much time fussing with the baby just yet. A note about this species, that is different than all other species. They are very crepuscular. They become most active and engaged in the evening. Many people get worried because they put food out in the morning and it sits mostly untouched all day. These guys will often ignore food all day and then come out and hammer it at 5 or 6pm. Its good to feed in the morning, but don't be alarmed or worried if the tortoise just nibbles a little all day. Make sure there is a big pile of fresh food in the late afternoon.

Okay... Now take a deep breath. Inhale.... aaaaaannnnd exhale.... This is a lot to take in, and at this point most people feel a little overwhelmed and anxious. You've chosen a hardy species that is forgiving of mistakes and imperfections to a degree. All of this will become easy and understandable in time. With each successful day, your confidence will grow and your tortoise keeping experience will become more and more enjoyable. Getting the enclosure set up and the conditions all dialed in is just one great big hurdle that everyone has to get over. Its all going to work out and we will be here to help you all along the way. You've started with a great species from a fantastic source, and that alone is a HUGE help. Many people start where you are, but have already bought their tortoise from a poor source that doesn't start them well. That is a tough uphill battle. You don't have that problem, thankfully!

Question all of this as much as you want. Argue. Explain what you read elsewhere and ask why what we say is different. This is how people learn. We won't take offense. We want you to succeed.

Just to make it easy, here is the correct care info again for reference:

The Best Way To Raise A Sulcata, Leopard, Or Star Tortoise

I chose the title of this care sheet very carefully. Are there other ways to raise babies? Yes. Yes there are, but those ways are not as good. What follows is the BEST way, according to 30 years of research and experimentation with hundreds of babies of many species. Babies hatch during the...

tortoiseforum.org

Info For New People. Please Read This First.

Hello and welcome to tortoiseforum.org! We are all glad you are here! There is no other forum like this anywhere. We have tens of thousands of members from all over the world ranging from kids with their first tortoise to people who have been breeding and keeping high end tortoises since the...

tortoiseforum.org

 

[Tom]

Tom, thank you so much! I have read your guide 6 times and will probably read it another 600 times! I can’t wait! Thanks so much

This appears to be a duplicate thread. I left a more comprehensive answer on the other one.