Burrowing

[jale10103]

I got my tortoise a couple weeks ago and at first she was pretty active and walking around but now she's just sleeping under her log shelter for days at a time. I have to take her out every once and awhile to soak her and feed her but then she just goes back to sleeping afterward. Is this normal or is she hibernating? I keep my temp at 85 and humidity at 40.

 

[lvstorts]

Please provide more information...what kind of tortoise to start with. Post pictures...it's really hard to even speculate without knowing what kind it is!

 

[Laura]

prob needs to be warmer and nore hours of light per day.. is it a russian?

 

[jale10103]

prob needs to be warmer and nore hours of light per day.. is it a russian?

Yes it's a Russian tortoise.

 

[Tom]

There are four temps to be concerned with: Basking, warm side, cool side, and night. Can you tell us these?

85 is fine for the warm side during the day, but the basking spot needs to be hotter (95ish) and the night temps should drop into the 60s.

 

[jale10103]

There are four temps to be concerned with: Basking, warm side, cool side, and night. Can you tell us these?

85 is fine for the warm side during the day, but the basking spot needs to be hotter (95ish) and the night temps should drop into the 60s.

Warm side 90 cool side is usually 75 and night is like 78. Is there really something I need to worry about?

 

[Tom]

According to most Russian keepers, you need a basking spot around 95-100. Then you need a cooling period at night down into the 60s.

When a reptile becomes lethargic, loses appetite, or stays hidden excessively, the first thing I check on is the temps for THAT species. Most of the time this is the problem.

What are you using for heating and lighting? Colored bulbs make things look "funny" to tortoises and coil type UV bulbs can hurt their eyes and make them want to hide. Another common indoor problem is that the enclosure is too dim. Might this be an issue for you?

 

[jale10103]

According to most Russian keepers, you need a basking spot around 95-100. Then you need a cooling period at night down into the 60s.

When a reptile becomes lethargic, loses appetite, or stays hidden excessively, the first thing I check on is the temps for THAT species. Most of the time this is the problem.

What are you using for heating and lighting? Colored bulbs make things look "funny" to tortoises and coil type UV bulbs can hurt their eyes and make them want to hide. Another common indoor problem is that the enclosure is too dim. Might this be an issue for you?

I use a 100w blab and a 75w bulb for night. I don't use a UV bulb I use one of those long lights.

---

This is my enclosure.

 

[Tom]

You need a remote probed thermometer and an infrared temp gun so you cages accurate reading. Those stick on thermometer aren't very helpful unless you just want to know the temp where they are stuck on. You need to know the basking temp directly under the bulb. It should be near 100.

Unless your house drops below 60at night, Try not using the night bulb.

That water bowl is a death trap. Many tortoises have drowned in those. Use something shallow like a terra cotta plant saucer sunk into the substrate instead.

Your enclosure is much too small and there is not enough cover for your tortoise to feel comfortable or safe.

Does your tortoise get outside for some sunshine and exercise?

These are my initial observations. I'll bet if you correct all of these things your tortoise will find its appetite and become more active again.

 

[jale10103]

Can you show me what your enclosure looks like? Or maybe some examples of what your talking about.

 

[ascott]

I would add depth to the substrate (to about 5 or 6 inches) and when you add it, be sure to take your hand and press/pack it down so that the tort has a secure surface to walk on--you don't want his legs to ge weak because of no firm ground to press against while walking....

I would add a plant or two in each corner that will serve as a kind of plant canopy---you can use either real or artificial (the silk type artificial, not the heavy plastic stuff)....

I would switch out the water dish as well, you can use a number of things--the goal is to allow a pooling of water and to allow easy (non tumbling hazards) in and out to the water so the tort can self soak or easily lean its head into the water to drink (deep enough to submerge their nostrils along with their mouth)....