CHE vs. Heat Cable (waterproof)

[mikeh]

I see everyone recommends CHE. How about a waterproof heat cable? Can we hear some pros and cons of each??

I used CHE in the past and they work. But now that we have waterproof heat cable, I think its a great alternative in right application. I use it my enclosures and see more pros over CHE.

Pros I can think of:
Comes in variety of wattage and length.Under the substrate it provides gentle heat.
Helps evaporate moisture=more humidity

Keeps things on the bottom swamp free

Eliminates another hanging contraption

Can be used on the ceiling as well in closed chamber, or back wall

More energy efficient

Can be used under warm hide

Does not dry out top of the substrate like CHE

Less fire hazard

Never gets hot to the touch. (waterproof cable from Big Apple Pet Supplies)

Cons.

If you have a digger, you have a problem. But even then you can get around it with some thinkering.

 

[jerm42991]

Just curious. Do you use only heat cable? Are you able to get the entire enclosure warm with just the cable?

I am in the planning stages of a new enclosure, planning on starting the build this weekend, and was thinking of using radiated floor heating.

I was planning on getting the stuff they actually use for houses as it lasts longer. But dont want to spend the money before knowing how well it will work

 

[mikeh]

I use it in two of my closed chambers. One is 2x4x24" with plexi on 3.5 sided which looses lots of heat and makes high amount of condensation. It has a 80W heat cable in half of enclosure under 3" of substrate. Small 50W basking light and tube UVB. This is in a cool dry basement 65-70F.
I have no problems keeping 90-92 thru out the whole enclosure with this combo.
I am very sure the heat cable on its own would keep temp on its own.
I do have one large and few smaller round rocks directly on top of the heat cable. This warms the rocks up nicely which radiates heat even better once they warm up. My torts hang and bask on it all the time or anywhere in the enclosure where its warm with their legs spread out. There are discussions that torts cant regulate with heat from below, but from my observation I feel comfortable they do.

I did place 1" polystyrene on the enclosures floor for insulation (this made a big difference), reflective foil next, heat cable, wire mesh over and substrate.

My other 6x2.5x 26" enclosure uses same wattage heat cable, 70MVB, only has plexi on the front, (considerably less heat loss), rest is 3/4" solid pine.Works as good even though enclosure is bigger.

During the day the heat cable is on for few hours till things warm up, then rarely comes on, unless I open the door for more then few minutes or spray the enclosure down. At night it cycles as needed.

Hope this helps a bit.

 

[Redstrike]

When we're talking heat production, CHE's and heat ropes are like apples and oranges. CHE's provide a lot of radiant heat, the things get so hot they'll burn you if you touch them. Therefore, they're excellent at heating air space.

Heat ropes, on the other hand, generate much less heat. They acquire temps of about 120ºF maximum, probably less. They are poor at heating air space but good at warming the substrate and, if they are WATERPROOF (not water resistant) they can be used to up humidity by placing them in water. I use both Big Apple Herp and Hydrokable to do this and they are very high quality, waterproof cables.

 

[Zamric]

I use both in my Twin Enclosure. The Heat Rope I have buried under my humid hide to increase the temp and the humidity in the hides themselves but like Chris just said, they are no good for heating the air-mass itself just the substraight.

 

[Beck]

I agree that heat cables do a poor job of heating air space. However if the air space is "shallow" such as in an under bed storage container, heating cables, at least in water, can sufficiently heat an enclosure (to 82 degrees in my case).

I installed cables as a humidity element -- the additional heat into the enclosure was a (expected) by-product. While the heat was sufficient for my Redfoot, I was concerned about not having good control over the heat cables when attempting to use them for both heat and humidity. Ultimately, I chose to lower the output of my heating cables, and place a CHE on thermostat above the enclosure.

So depending on the enclosure and outside environment, heating cables may be sufficient. However, I would think initial positioning of the cables to create an appropriate gradient would be time consuming. They may need a rheostat/thermostat combo or a proportional thermostat, which may be expensive/complicated (maybe too much so, for the new tort owners we get so frequently). And if my species liked to bask, I wouldn't want to deny him overhead heat, just because he CAN thermoregulate without it. Personally, I would appreciate a warm floor, but there's nothing like that sun on my skin!

So in some cases, yes, I think heat cables are appropriate, if the owner is adept to creating environments for a tortoise to thermoregulate in. However, I think CHEs are most appropriate for the forum questions we get. "Buy a CHE and thermostat, set for XX degrees and forget it".

My enclosure with heat cables: http://www.tortoiseforum.org/thread-74825.html

Sent from my Nexus 7 using TortForum mobile app

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Oh, and I think another important point here is closed vs open enclosures. You and I both have closed enclosures. I highly doubt heat cables could sufficiently heat an open table we see so often here.

So once again, appropriate for some circumstances for enclosure heating, but limited.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using TortForum mobile app

 

[Madkins007]

There is not going to be a perfect answer here. It depends on too many variables, of which perhaps the most important is what is your ambient temperature without any heat? Heat ropes under suitable substrate and kept properly wet can boost temps enough if the air is already warm, but are a poor choice on their own if it is cooler.