Couple of Questions for Diet and Enclosure

PNWEric

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We have two redfoots we were told to be about 2-3 years old (we think both males each weighs around 1 kg). I know two is not the best number to have, but that is where we are right now. We have had them for a little over a year and monitor them constantly and do not see any bullying signs for now. We have means to separate them if necessary for now and do when we cannot keep an eye on them.

1. What animal proteins do you feed? Thoughts on supplementing with something like Mazuri Tortoise Diet (mostly for the protein - it is 15% crude protein) in addition to greens, fruits, and vegetables?

2. We are building a larger PVC enclosure (currently each has a 4x2x2) for indoors during colder times (live in NW US - Washington State) that is 8' x 4' x 4'. I have 4 shell vents to add, would I be best putting them in the middle on the sides to help hold humidity or low on one side and high on other for air flow and block as needed to maintain humidity? I really do not have issues with humidity staying 90% or better right now using Orchid bark as the substrate. I will have to go to a soil base for live plants with bark on top and hope the diggers does not dig too deep (have a 18" litter dam on the front at the doors to use as needed). Any advice on how deep to make the substrate/soil would help too,

3. For the new enclosure temperature: I currently use a couple of CHEs to keep the temperature (harder to keep a gradient in the smaller home. The current enclosures do not hold heat as well as the PVC will. but i was planning 4 sockets for the CHEs, two on one side and one middle and 1 other side to make some gradient. For lighting I have a 36" T5HO with a 6% UVB that I will adjust height to get proper UVB (I have a Solarmeter to measure). I am also looking to add a couple Jungle Dawn or equivalent for plants. Then use the height for some larger plants to provide shade and keep it from being too bright at ground level. The question is, would i be better to use radiant heat panels instead of the CHEs? If so, what size?

I have divider to split the enclosure if we need to separate them. Once I get the first setup and working well, I will build a second one for the other guy so they each have a enclosure big enough.

I will use a Herpstat 4 or 6 to control all the heating and lighting depending how many different fixtures I end up installing.

Thanks for any advice! The new enclosure is at dads shop right now, but will share pictures when finished.
 

ZEROPILOT

REDFOOT WRANGLER
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We have two redfoots we were told to be about 2-3 years old (we think both males each weighs around 1 kg). I know two is not the best number to have, but that is where we are right now. We have had them for a little over a year and monitor them constantly and do not see any bullying signs for now. We have means to separate them if necessary for now and do when we cannot keep an eye on them.

1. What animal proteins do you feed? Thoughts on supplementing with something like Mazuri Tortoise Diet (mostly for the protein - it is 15% crude protein) in addition to greens, fruits, and vegetables?

2. We are building a larger PVC enclosure (currently each has a 4x2x2) for indoors during colder times (live in NW US - Washington State) that is 8' x 4' x 4'. I have 4 shell vents to add, would I be best putting them in the middle on the sides to help hold humidity or low on one side and high on other for air flow and block as needed to maintain humidity? I really do not have issues with humidity staying 90% or better right now using Orchid bark as the substrate. I will have to go to a soil base for live plants with bark on top and hope the diggers does not dig too deep (have a 18" litter dam on the front at the doors to use as needed). Any advice on how deep to make the substrate/soil would help too,

3. For the new enclosure temperature: I currently use a couple of CHEs to keep the temperature (harder to keep a gradient in the smaller home. The current enclosures do not hold heat as well as the PVC will. but i was planning 4 sockets for the CHEs, two on one side and one middle and 1 other side to make some gradient. For lighting I have a 36" T5HO with a 6% UVB that I will adjust height to get proper UVB (I have a Solarmeter to measure). I am also looking to add a couple Jungle Dawn or equivalent for plants. Then use the height for some larger plants to provide shade and keep it from being too bright at ground level. The question is, would i be better to use radiant heat panels instead of the CHEs? If so, what size?

I have divider to split the enclosure if we need to separate them. Once I get the first setup and working well, I will build a second one for the other guy so they each have a enclosure big enough.

I will use a Herpstat 4 or 6 to control all the heating and lighting depending how many different fixtures I end up installing.

Thanks for any advice! The new enclosure is at dads shop right now, but will share pictures when finished.
It sounds like you have a good handle on things as far as equipment, heat and UV goes.
And you DO need to keep them separated. I just posted about this same issue. You won't see all bullying. But it's already very stressful for these solitary animals.
As for animal protein, I use very high quality dog food. Unseasoned cooked chicken, raw beef, eggs, shrimp, etc.
Just about any unprocessed meat that you eat can be fed in moderation to your Redfoot as part of the feeding.
 

PNWEric

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Kitsap County, WA
I cook the chicken because of salmonella fears.
You want temps of 80 to 88.
UVB with no other bright lights.
Humidity over 70% 24/7.
Hiding areas.
Thank you.
Will the UVB be enough to keep plants alive or do I need to add grow lighting?
Or am I just better using fake pants since they will destroy them anyway?

Last one, how big of a litter dam should I leave on the front? Or more directly, how deep should I keep the substrate now and when fully grown assuming this will be used for years to come.
 

ZEROPILOT

REDFOOT WRANGLER
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Most plants depend on UVA.
You'll need a plant light for them. There are inexpensive LED options for that.
Some plants like Pothos don't need special lights at all.
Fake plants are a crapshoot to me. Sometimes a tortoise will take a bite. And they're not digestible.
I made my indoors substrate 6" deep, back when I used them.
 

PNWEric

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Location (City and/or State)
Kitsap County, WA
Most plants depend on UVA.
You'll need a plant light for them. There are inexpensive LED options for that.
Some plants like Pothos don't need special lights at all.
Fake plants are a crapshoot to me. Sometimes a tortoise will take a bite. And they're not digestible.
I made my indoors substrate 6" deep, back when I used them.
What plants did you find grew well in an indoor enclosure that they can eat (if they decide to chomp) but are hardy enough for their tank bodies to not trample and provide some shading?

Mostly looking for something to provide shade for them to get under
 

ZEROPILOT

REDFOOT WRANGLER
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I used Spider plants and Lyriopi.
They lasted a while.
Pothos can survive and thrive without special lighting. It grows very fast. Its inexpensive and it's edible
 

Canadian Mojo

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Spider plants tolerate Redfoot conditions quite well. They're edible, tough as nails, and arch nicely to provide good hiding places. As long as you keep them elevated enough that the base of the plant can't get eaten or trampled, they seem to do well.
 

Mrs.Jennifer

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What plants did you find grew well in an indoor enclosure that they can eat (if they decide to chomp) but are hardy enough for their tank bodies to not trample and provide some shading?

Mostly looking for something to provide shade for them to get under
I have hung some plants from the “ceiling” of my PVC enclosure. I have pothos and tradescantia and both grow well without any special bulb. They create shade, and the plants are safe from total destruction.
 

Canadian Mojo

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I have hung some plants from the “ceiling” of my PVC enclosure. I have pothos and tradescantia and both grow well without any special bulb. They create shade, and the plants are safe from total destruction.
The trick I used was to make a tall pot that was anchored to the wall in the corner so it couldn't be pulled over and put a nice arching spiderplant in it. I just used the middle of a 2L pop bottle cut into a sheet and a few screws. The walls are waterproof so I can get away with it. When I water it just drains directly into the substrate.

Right now I'm experimenting with a long shallow pot I made out of cheap no-name brand Kydex. It looks branch-like and sits in the enclosure a few inches above shell height. I have pothos and tradescantia in it and I'm hoping there is enough soil to keep everything alive. Tord seems to like it because he moved out of his old hide and into the hide right next to it right after I put it in. Evidently, even *** to the world, it was too bright before. In his defence it is by the UV bulb.
 

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