Do i need to trim claws?

[OnHisShellHeHoldsTheEarth]

Hi there, I've been told that my baby tortoise needs their claws trimmed, they are only 9/10 months old. I do have slate in the enclosure which my tortoise loves to lay on and bask under the lamp. Is there anything else I need to do to help with the claws or is this normal for young Hermanns? Recent photo for reference. Thanks

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

hello and welcome! They be ever so slightly on the longer side but I certainly wouldn’t bother trimming them just yet, hopefully they’ll start wearing down

Whilst you’re here I don’t suppose you’d mind including some information on how you’re keeping them? It’s so helpful with new members

What are your temperatures? Ie basking temp(directly under the bulb) overall day temps, night temps?
What kind of lighting/heating are you using? Packaging photos are handy if you have any
What kind of indoor uv?
How’s your humidity level and what do you use for substrate?

If we could get a photo of you full set up that would be great!

 

[OnHisShellHeHoldsTheEarth]

hello and welcome! They be ever so slightly on the longer side but I certainly wouldn’t bother trimming them just yet, hopefully they’ll start wearing down

Whilst you’re here I don’t suppose you’d mind including some information on how you’re keeping them? It’s so helpful with new members

What are your temperatures? Ie basking temp(directly under the bulb) overall day temps, night temps?
What kind of lighting/heating are you using? Packaging photos are handy if you have any
What kind of indoor uv?
How’s your humidity level and what do you use for substrate?

If we could get a photo of you full set up that would be great!

Hi, thank you I will leave their claws as they are for now I do have a vet that I've asked as well.
My set up is UVA basking lamp which I have on for 12 hours a day, a UVB bulb for 5 hours a day and average temp is 26-32 throughout the day with 65-80% humidity. Temp at night is normally around 19-20 and humidity around 60. I posted a photo of my set up in a previous thread and received some useful advice. Thanks!

 

[Littleredfootbigredheart]

No problem! What kind of uv bulb is it?

For a baby as young as yours, you want to maintain 80+ humidity all over 24/7, I don’t think I’ve given you my more in depth response I usually give folks to help on a better starter set up, hopefully you’ll find it useful!

I’m going to include some information below on how I’d personally tackle a starter set up/a way you can build a bigger size in the future, the types of equipment to use, how to maintain humidity, and a cost effective way for you to get a suitable sized enclosure, hopefully it helps inspire an idea for you

Basking light should be an incandescent floodlight(example attached) on a 12 hour timer.

Basking temperature directly under the floodlight should be 95-100f. The rest of the enclosure should be ranging 75-80 during the day.

You may also wish to add ambient lighting on the same timer, providing shady areas with hides and safe plants.

Then CHE/CHE’s(ceramic heat emitters) always on a thermostat, for night heat if your house drops below 60’s at night. They are a non light emitting bulb. Set the thermostat for a night temperature place the probe in their cooler end, plug the che into it and the thermostat into the mains, it’ll be plugged in 24/7 but will only turn on when the temperature drops. When in a cooler climate you’ll probably need them.

Any indoor Uv should be a t5 fluorescent tube, avoid the compact and coil uv bulbs, they don’t give out enough uv and can hurt the tortoises eyes. The uv can be on a 4 hour timer from noon. I’ve attached the brands to go for, the Arcadia proT5 kit 12% comes with the reflector fitting, the reptisun needs it buying separate.

With lighting always avoid anything labelled halogen or mercury vapour.

Large wide(not deep) domes will help project heat down, just don’t solely rely on the clamps, they’ve been known to fail, always hang securely.

For substrates, either coco coir, dampened and packed down by hand as a base, with a layer of orchid(fir not pine) bark or forest floor on top, or just the orchid bark/forest floor. Never use anything with sand mixed in, no top soils and no kinds of moss. The trouble with top soil is you don’t know what kind of plants have gone into it, they could be toxic. Sand and moss are impaction risks.

You want to aim to have the bottom layer of substrate damp, to do this pour lukewarm water into the corners, not loads but enough to dampen the entire bottom layer. To stop that top layer getting too dry/dusty, mix the substrate now n then, which also helps boosting humidity or give the top a spray. Check your monitors and substrate to do the pours as and when needed. I don’t recommend misters or foggers, they get the air too wet and cause respiratory problems. Spraying won’t last as long.

Humidity for young growing tortoises needs to be maintained around 80%+ all over 24/7, you’ll find that difficult to achieve with an open top, for the set up I’m recommending I’d get a greenhouse cover. Once the tortoise is older a cover won’t be needed.

To maintain humidity whilst the tortoise is younger a greenhouse style set up works well and provides more space, as an adult they are going to ideally need a minimum of an 8x4, the bigger you go the better, it’s ideal if you can build your own base to go as big as you can for the room you have. A 4x2 or 4x4 will last you until they’re a bit bigger

Don’t think they can get away with smaller if allowed to free roam, I’d highly discourage indoor free roams, being away from their heat source means they’re being exposed to temperatures that are too low quite often, smooth surfaces like laminate flooring will wreak absolute havoc on their hip joints over time.
There’s just numerous reasons it isn’t a good idea unfortunately, harmful floor cleaners, foreign objects being swallowed, getting stuck under things they shouldn’t like shelving or sofas, low temperatures, no uv, getting hit by doors, one member has mentioned they knew someone who’s tort got their head crushed in a door jam, flipping hazards, smooth services, the list goes on and is endless.
They feel most comfortable and safe in a space that best mimics their natural environment, so an appropriate sized enclosure is always the ultimate goal.

If you can’t find an exact fit for your base with the cover, then place it over like the one with the white base in the photo, I’d put lining down under the base and cover though to stop condensate getting on your floor.

When making your base, just make sure the material is safe, some use flower beds or just make their own, for both these options I’d line with cheap pond liner to protect the base, making sure the liner goes up the sides too and make sure those sides are deep enough to prevent escapes.

Some people even hang their lighting from the greenhouse frame!(if it feels sturdy enough) Simply wrap the wire round so it’s at the height you need(check with temp gun/put thermostat in, 18-21 inches for the Arcadia uv) then secure with cable ties&chains.

I’ve also included examples of stands people make/buy. You could throw some pvc covering over the stands if youre struggling for a topper, but again if you do that, I’d put lining down under the base to stop condensate.

For a water dish a shallow terracotta saucer is considered safest, they have grip in the event your tortoise flips themselves, most pet store options are a known hazard.

If going for this set up, allow up to a week for the materials to ‘off gas’ with the heat running, until there’s no smell, once odourless, it’s safe for use

Ignore whatever else is in these enclosures in the photos, they’re just to give you an idea

For the diet side of things, avoid fruits, You want to stick with leafy greens and weeds for these guys, perhaps you’ll find this link below useful, maybe you could get some seeds offline and plant into organic soil(no fertilisers or chemicals) in a planter the tortoise doesn’t have access to, forage them as they growbe very wary foraging elsewhere, you can’t be sure there’s no chemicals and they’re toxic lookalikes so always double check.

The Tortoise Table - Home

The Tortoise Table plant database and resource site for Tortoise owners

www.thetortoisetable.org.uk

 

[OnHisShellHeHoldsTheEarth]

That's really useful, thank you