Double dome light system

TaylorTortoise

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Does anyone know if it’s safe to have two heat bulbs together in a double dome light fixture? My one bulb has an all in one. 80 watts and the other is just a regular 75 wattage. We got new enclosures for our tortoises and we are trying to get the temps right again.
 

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wellington

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However, those enclosures look way to small for the size the tortoises look. Both if juniors or adults need a minimum of a 4x8 foot.
The double domes are fine to use the way you mentioned, but I would buy another one of those. Much easier to get proper temps with the ability to move each light where needed instead of always a double.
 

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Those "do it all" or "3 in 1" bulbs are MVB bulbs. They do absolutely nothing very well Including supplying sporadic levels of UVB. They're also desicating, and take away humidity.
If you're using that as your primary source of uvb, I highly suggest not doing so.
Get yourself a T5 HO 10.0 linear strip florescent tube uvb.
 

Alex and the Redfoot

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Does anyone know if it’s safe to have two heat bulbs together in a double dome light fixture? My one bulb has an all in one. 80 watts and the other is just a regular 75 wattage. We got new enclosures for our tortoises and we are trying to get the temps right again.
If "all-in-one" lamp is a mercury vapour bulb (like ZooMed Powersun), please make sure to check UVB level under it and the basking zone temperature with both lamps on.
 

SinLA

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I can't see what is in the bottom tank, if its a baby or not, but the top looks like a Russian, and its way too small an enclosure for healthy living. Lots of people keep Russian's in small tanks like that, but it doesn't mean its good for them
 

TaylorTortoise

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Those "do it all" or "3 in 1" bulbs are MVB bulbs. They do absolutely nothing very well Including supplying sporadic levels of UVB. They're also desicating, and take away humidity.
If you're using that as your primary source of uvb, I highly suggest not doing so.
Get yourself a T5 HO 10.0 linear strip florescent tube uvb.
But does the T5 HO 10.0 linear strip florescent tube uvb supply enough heat to reach 80-85?
 

TaylorTortoise

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I can't see what is in the bottom tank, if its a baby or not, but the top looks like a Russian, and its way too small an enclosure for healthy living. Lots of people keep Russian's in small tanks like that, but it doesn't mean its good for them
They go outside in their other enclosure this is just for bad weather
 

Mr. RussianTortoise

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What is safe? Using two heat basking bulbs in a double dome fixture?
Yes, using two basking bulbs in the double dome fixture.
But does the T5 HO 10.0 linear strip florescent tube uvb supply enough heat to reach 80-85?
It's for UVB, think of it like the sun but something you can give to your animals inside. UVB doesn't emit any heat but is important for your tortoise's vitamin D and is necessary. Reptisun 10.0 UVB or Arcadia 12% are recommended UVB products (When buying Reptisun, it will come with a 5.0 UVB bulb which isn't the right type so make sure to get the 10.0 bulb separately) (They will be quite expensive though).
 

ZEROPILOT

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But does the T5 HO 10.0 linear strip florescent tube uvb supply enough heat to reach 80-85?
It supplies almost no heat at all.
An incandescent bulb or a CHE will provide heat.
MVB bulbs just do nothing well. I had them on my Chameleons and there was a 25° difference from bulb to bulb in temperature. Including an area of well over 110°. One of them blasted out 5x more uvb in a small area. Two others had almost no uvb output in most areas near the bulb. One of them sporadically changed heating and light levels during the day.
I don't trust them to do anything.
They're not "Does it all".
They're "Does nothing well". In my opinion.
I have a box of them in my garage. A couple of hundred dollars worth. I had high hopes for them for my tortoises and my Chameleons and found them just too unpredictable and even dangerous.
I did a write up post about them a while back. I tested them with an infrared thermometer and a UVB meter.
Even one within what I would call "normal" operation is still very desicating to a tortoises carapace and removes humidity from the enclosure. The light itself is too bright/harsh for a Redfoot or any shade loving species.
(My opinion from my observations and experiences)
I just tell new members my experience so that hopefully they can avoid the trouble.
MVB are expensive garbage for most applications. The options are all better, safer and less expensive.
 
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TaylorTortoise

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It supplies almost no heat at all.
An incandescent bulb or a CHE will provide heat.
MVB bulbs just do nothing well. I had them on my Chameleons and there was a 25° difference from bulb to bulb in temperature. Including an area of well over 110°. One of them blasted out 5x more uvb in a small area. Two others had almost no uvb output in most areas near the bulb. One of them sporadically changed heating and light levels during the day.
I don't trust them to do anything.
They're not "Does it all".
They're "Does nothing well". In my opinion.
I have a box of them in my garage. A couple of hundred dollars worth. I had high hopes for them for my tortoises and my Chameleons and found them just too unpredictable and even dangerous.
I did a write up post about them a while back. I tested them with an infrared thermometer and a UVB meter.
Even one within what I would call "normal" operation is still very desicating to a tortoises carapace and removes humidity from the enclosure. The light itself is too bright/harsh for a Redfoot or any shade loving species.
(My opinion from my observations and experiences)
I just tell new members my experience so that hopefully they can avoid the trouble.
MVB are expensive garbage for most applications. The options are all better, safer and less expensive.
Please send a picture of some options on where I can get these real heat bulbs that will fit in my ceramic double dome light fixture please.
 

TaylorTortoise

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So if I use one of these incandescent heat lights and a uva light would that be sufficient enough to having enough light in the enclosure itself? Or do you recommend a basking light that has both uva/ uvb and a incandescent heat bulb @ZEROPILOT
 

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ZEROPILOT

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So if I use one of these incandescent heat lights and a uva light would that be sufficient enough to having enough light in the enclosure itself? Or do you recommend a basking light that has both uva/ uvb and a incandescent heat bulb @ZEROPILOT
A basking bulb can be just for basking or to use as a light source also. They do put out light.
No basking bulb with uva and uvb is the type I was advocating against.
A CHE is a ceramic heat emitter. It produces heat only. No light. They are suitable for heat both daytime and also at night.
Check the maximum wattage listed in that double dome and make sure it is rated for the same wattage or higher than your basking light or a che.
The photo is a che.
Not the infrared light in your photo. But it does look similar. The difference is that the che doesn't produce light
 

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ZEROPILOT

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Your UVB light should be this type.
REPTIZOO and ARCADIA are the most common brands.
This is just for a reference.
They come in different widths and in two general strengths.
In REPTIZOO you'll need a 10.0 tube.
In ARCADIA you'll need their 12% tube.
These light systems will probably last you forever. The tubes can last several years and are replaceable.
Most systems come complete with the fixture and the tube.
 

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Tom

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So if I use one of these incandescent heat lights and a uva light would that be sufficient enough to having enough light in the enclosure itself? Or do you recommend a basking light that has both uva/ uvb and a incandescent heat bulb @ZEROPILOT
Here is a breakdown of the four heating and lighting essentials:
  1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
  2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night. Some people in colder climates or with larger enclosures will need multiple CHEs or RHPs to spread out enough heat.
  3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
  4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.
Please give this whole thread a read through at least a couple of times. It will catch you up to speed on all the correct care and lighting info. Also look for the temperate species care sheet near the bottom:
 
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