Friend in Canada is using this bulb for his sulcata - and only this

zovick

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Is this enough, in terms of lighting? It surprised me, because although I have a Hermann tortoise, I've invested in a basking light that cost a few times more than this below link.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07MXD4SMW/?tag=
That looks like a ceramic heat emitter (CHE) rather than a bulb which actually produces light. Those are fine for supplying heat, but they will not give any UV output which the tortoise also needs.
 
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Tom

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Is this enough, in terms of lighting? It surprised me, because although I have a Hermann tortoise, I've invested in a basking light that cost a few times more than this below link.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07MXD4SMW/?tag=
No. Not enough. Not in any way shape or form.

There are four elements to heating and lighting:
  1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
  2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. You'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night.
  3. Light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in bulb types are both fine.
  4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. If you want it anyway, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html Here in our climate, you shouldn't need indoor UV.
Share the above and and this care sheet with your Canadian friend. They need to make some changes if they want the tortoise to survive.
Explain that most of the care info out there in the world is wrong. Its been wrong for decades, and it is still wrong.
 

GSM

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No. Not enough. Not in any way shape or form.

There are four elements to heating and lighting:
  1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
  2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. You'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night.
  3. Light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in bulb types are both fine.
  4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. If you want it anyway, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html Here in our climate, you shouldn't need indoor UV.
Share the above and and this care sheet with your Canadian friend. They need to make some changes if they want the tortoise to survive.
Explain that most of the care info out there in the world is wrong. Its been wrong for decades, and it is still wrong.

Thanks very much for taking the time to explain, @Tom. This has been forwarded.

You have made me question my own Hermann enclosure. I use a ReptileSystems d3 80w basking lamp, which features UVA, UVB and IR. Why is light a separate point to this? I have a spare Govee '5050' led strip - that can be placed nearby, but forgive me, I don't understand for what purpose this would be needed, if a room bulb is also switched on..?

A screenshot of this 2-year-old's home:


20210129_102939.jpg


20210129_103006.jpg
 

Tom

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Thanks very much for taking the time to explain, @Tom. This has been forwarded.

You have made me question my own Hermann enclosure. I use a ReptileSystems d3 80w basking lamp, which features UVA, UVB and IR. Why is light a separate point to this? I have a spare Govee '5050' led strip - that can be placed nearby, but forgive me, I don't understand for what purpose this would be needed, if a room bulb is also switched on..?

A screenshot of this 2-year-old's home:


View attachment 316634


View attachment 316636
During the day, our indoor enclosures are supposed to simulate "day time" conditions. Look how dark your enclosure is away from the light. Compare this to how bright it is on a sunny day. Ambient light is important for their mental well being.
 
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GSM

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During the day, our indoor enclosures are supposed to simulate "day time" conditions. Look how dark your enclosure is away from the light. Compare this to how bright it is on a sunny day. Ambient light is important for their mental well being.

That makes sense. Thanks again, @Tom. You have likely saved a tortoise life + improved the mental health of another.
 

Tom

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That makes sense. Thanks again, @Tom. You have likely saved a tortoise life + improved the mental health of another.
Looking at the pictures again, it looks like you've used the clamp to hold the lamp in place? The clamps always fail. If the bulb doesn't break when it falls and leave broken glass and a "hot" exposed electrical socket (best case), then it will start a fire. Its best to hang the bulb from directly overhead. This way you can also adjust the height more easily too, to get the correct temperature under it.
 

GSM

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Looking at the pictures again, it looks like you've used the clamp to hold the lamp in place? The clamps always fail. If the bulb doesn't break when it falls and leave broken glass and a "hot" exposed electrical socket (best case), then it will start a fire. Its best to hang the bulb from directly overhead. This way you can also adjust the height more easily too, to get the correct temperature under it.

Mmm, this has crossed my mind. What I would say, in defence of current set up, is that the clamp is extremely strong. I got my finger stuck accidently and almost lost it. It's a good product from Exo, that I noticed immediately. Hanging from above would require some DIY - but I'll look into it. The alternative is the two wooden pieces left and right that many seem to turn to - but that presents its own hazards.
 

Tom

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Mmm, this has crossed my mind. What I would say, in defence of current set up, is that the clamp is extremely strong. I got my finger stuck accidently and almost lost it. It's a good product from Exo, that I noticed immediately. Hanging from above would require some DIY - but I'll look into it. The alternative is the two wooden pieces left and right that many seem to turn to - but that presents its own hazards.
ZooMed makes a metal adjustable lamp stand. I think the price is ridiculous, but it is a good safe reliable product, and easier than building something.
 
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