What gives out more heat, CHE or a red lamp?
heating
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There's probably a good ready answer from experienced keepers, here I give the standard I'm new to this, so I might be useless.
however, that seems like a bit of an apples and oranges to me, and it will likely depend on application. Watts is Watts so equal wattage red bulb to che should be good for the same heat overall in an enclosed space. That being said, I'm under the impression that the che puts out more of a spotlight effect. It radiates non visible heat waves that can travel some distance to interact with an object and heat it. The red bulb "wastes" some of its energy as visible light, which still winds up heating the enclosure as long as it doesn't escape. Much of its heat will be output directly at the source, and not necessarily where you want it.
however, that seems like a bit of an apples and oranges to me, and it will likely depend on application. Watts is Watts so equal wattage red bulb to che should be good for the same heat overall in an enclosed space. That being said, I'm under the impression that the che puts out more of a spotlight effect. It radiates non visible heat waves that can travel some distance to interact with an object and heat it. The red bulb "wastes" some of its energy as visible light, which still winds up heating the enclosure as long as it doesn't escape. Much of its heat will be output directly at the source, and not necessarily where you want it.
Before I installed my solar panels, I was at first using CHE's in all my tortoise sheds. My power bill was sky high (not just from the CHE's, but because I have so many tortoises that need to be kept warm). I was always looking for ways to cut my bill. I noticed that when I switched on a CHE in a shed, the light that was on actually dimmed a bit, because the CHE was drawing so much electricity. So I switched out all the 100 watt CHE's for 60 watt black lights. I noticed a big drop in my power bill, but didn't notice any drop in the heating of the sheds. The black light bulb puts out quite a bit of heat and replaces the CHE's handily!
M
Maggie Cummings
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I agree, I use black light bulbs in all my habitats...I use 1 CHE just because I have it...but with an over $300 electric bill I think I'm gonna switch it out for a black light bulb...
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interesting... i just use che's cause it doesn't produce light. i will have to ask my husband about electric bills over the winter and do some experimenting.
A conventional incandescent bulb (any color) produces about 20% light and 80% heat. A CHE produces 100% heat. So a 100 watt CHE is using the same amount of power as a 100 watt light bulb only you're getting 20% more heat. (Right Balboa?)
Also, according the the manufacturer, Pearlco CHEs give off "long wave" radiant waves verses short wave from an incandescent. This is supposed to be able to better penetrate the animals body and warm them more thoroughly.
Also, according the the manufacturer, Pearlco CHEs give off "long wave" radiant waves verses short wave from an incandescent. This is supposed to be able to better penetrate the animals body and warm them more thoroughly.
yup that pretty much nails it Tom, in a much better way of saying it. Sometimes I'm terrible at 'splainin' things. lol
That being said, I find Emys experience interesting. Once again its likely an issue of application. Been a long time since I really read up on them, but it seems to me the CHE is almost like a microwave, and actually needs a reactive material to interract with to produce heat. If too far away from something heatable, many of the waves produced may go wasted, whereas the incandescent produces actual thermal heat from the start, and in a theoretical perfectly insulated enclosure, that builds. Heck I could be all wrong on CHEs in that respect though, who knows. Time for research, hehe
That being said, I find Emys experience interesting. Once again its likely an issue of application. Been a long time since I really read up on them, but it seems to me the CHE is almost like a microwave, and actually needs a reactive material to interract with to produce heat. If too far away from something heatable, many of the waves produced may go wasted, whereas the incandescent produces actual thermal heat from the start, and in a theoretical perfectly insulated enclosure, that builds. Heck I could be all wrong on CHEs in that respect though, who knows. Time for research, hehe
Also I notice that my CHE's last a lot longer than the black bulb, and I keep my CHE on 24/7.
I am sorry to add a twist to the conversation, but I use something different than a CHE or a black bulb. I use a Mega-Ray HP - 60 Watt Heat Projector. It is like a Che, but cannot burn you or your tortoise. I was using a CHE and this seems to put out as much usable heat, but does not get over 125 degrees. It put out virtually no light at all. It uses coils of wire like your toaster inside a small flood light like reflector with a screen front. You can touch it and not get burnt, which I think is a plus if for some reason it fell in the enclosure it would not burn anything. I don't know how long it will last since I have only been using it for about a month, but I don't see why it would fail any quicker than a CHE.
M
Maggie Cummings
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Also a CHE makes like a cone of heat so in order for the animal to get warm he has to get under the CHE, the black light bulb heats a whole area so for instance the tort stays warm inside his hide and doesn't have to get up and walk over to the light bulb to warm up, the bulb heats the whole area, my vote still goes for the light bulb.
How is Ralph doing? He is the only other Sulcata who has a bump nose like Bob. Bob and Ralph look just like each other...
How is Ralph doing? He is the only other Sulcata who has a bump nose like Bob. Bob and Ralph look just like each other...
Cfr200 said:
That is very interesting. I've never heard of these. I'll have to look into them. At only 60 watts, does it make enough heat over a large area to keep outdoor torts warm on a freezing night?
Tom, I don't know about that. The heat is more directed, which is how I think 60 watts can equal the heat output of a 100w CHE. I know it works well inside over my indoor enclosure. Mega-Ray offers a 30 day trial period so maybe you can give it a try and if it does not work well send it back.
Since Ralph has been outside 24/7 (since last year I think) I've been using a red bulb. I keep it on 24/7 (except on really hot days/nights). We have attached it to the inside of a dogloo. I'm always concerned about fire safety, especially since we have timothy hay inside the dogloo. We don't generally keep the hay inside during warmer weather, but these last few weeks the temps dropped down into the 50's at night (probably a little bit lower with the cold rains we've had). I just add the hay to absorb some heat.
We don't pay for electricity. Not saying because of that I don't care about the bill. Technically, I don't care about the bill, but I do care about the amount of electricity being used. I don't like to waste.
Just wondering if it would be better to have a che. Always looking for ways to improve life for him. Is a che a fire hazard?
We don't pay for electricity. Not saying because of that I don't care about the bill. Technically, I don't care about the bill, but I do care about the amount of electricity being used. I don't like to waste.
Just wondering if it would be better to have a che. Always looking for ways to improve life for him. Is a che a fire hazard?
CHE fire hazard hmmmm
Probably WAAAY more info than anyone wants, but you got me thinking.
THEORETICALLY, any UL Listed component will be perfectly safe when used per manufacturers directions. Trouble is, the UL Trademark is so heavily counterfeited these days its meaningless, unless you take the time to look up the item. I just picked up a CHE the other day, super cheap, at the Reptile Show. It has the UL Trademark on it, but came with NO directions. I dug around for a little while at the UL Listings and found only two companies that have UL Listed Heat Emitters. Eiko and Zoo Med. Maybe Eiko is making them all for rebranding, I don't know, and I don't know that the UL Trademark can be carried across for re-branding, but I DO know, that by not including instructions, the company selling the CHE I have voided the listing, if it ever had one.
I've started liking Zoo-Med more and more of late, actually producing decent stuff (substrates made from pure fir and cypress, pre-packaged foods that look like a genuine attempt at making something healthy) and actually taking the time/expense to get some of there stuff UL listed.
However, the Zoo-Med CHE MUST be installed in the Zoo-Med LF-10, otherwise the listing is void. Funny... I never see that one on the shelves. Actually I like it, its a wire basket, but not nearly as pretty as those black brooder types.
So my guess is, that UL found that if the CHE was installed in that wire basket, the emitter would be unable to get close enough to a flat, combustable surface to ignite it, thus making it safe. That implies that as long as you only buy Zoo-Med emitters, and design your install so that equivalent safeguards are in place to the LF-10 (or just use the LF-10 and not void the ul listing), you can be reasonably assured that there will be no fire hazard. Any other approach and best beware.
We keep out of the norm pets, so usually we need to go to out of the norm means to meet their needs. Unfortunatly, that does tend to put us and our pets at risk as well.
Probably WAAAY more info than anyone wants, but you got me thinking.
THEORETICALLY, any UL Listed component will be perfectly safe when used per manufacturers directions. Trouble is, the UL Trademark is so heavily counterfeited these days its meaningless, unless you take the time to look up the item. I just picked up a CHE the other day, super cheap, at the Reptile Show. It has the UL Trademark on it, but came with NO directions. I dug around for a little while at the UL Listings and found only two companies that have UL Listed Heat Emitters. Eiko and Zoo Med. Maybe Eiko is making them all for rebranding, I don't know, and I don't know that the UL Trademark can be carried across for re-branding, but I DO know, that by not including instructions, the company selling the CHE I have voided the listing, if it ever had one.
I've started liking Zoo-Med more and more of late, actually producing decent stuff (substrates made from pure fir and cypress, pre-packaged foods that look like a genuine attempt at making something healthy) and actually taking the time/expense to get some of there stuff UL listed.
However, the Zoo-Med CHE MUST be installed in the Zoo-Med LF-10, otherwise the listing is void. Funny... I never see that one on the shelves. Actually I like it, its a wire basket, but not nearly as pretty as those black brooder types.
So my guess is, that UL found that if the CHE was installed in that wire basket, the emitter would be unable to get close enough to a flat, combustable surface to ignite it, thus making it safe. That implies that as long as you only buy Zoo-Med emitters, and design your install so that equivalent safeguards are in place to the LF-10 (or just use the LF-10 and not void the ul listing), you can be reasonably assured that there will be no fire hazard. Any other approach and best beware.
We keep out of the norm pets, so usually we need to go to out of the norm means to meet their needs. Unfortunatly, that does tend to put us and our pets at risk as well.
Cfr200 said:
I bought one of these and I was unimpressed. If I remember right they cost about $20? Anyhow, when Megaray shipped it to me it came in a T-Rex box (which still bugs me. I didn't buy a T-Rex product, I bought a megaray product... they could have at least reboxed it and let me pretend it was different. That at least shows some effort). I plugged it in and true to the description it doesn't produce enough heat on contact to burn your hand if you touch it. It still gets hot enough though that you don't want to just grab it whenever.
The heat output of mine is okay at best. Seems to me to be a narrow beam of heat. It would be good in small areas, but I feel it was unable to adequately provide heat for my indoor tort table (which doesn't take much heat, but I do like the heat to spread out and cover a larger area is all) . I switched out to a CHE and it works more effectively and still radiates heat when it turns off. It is using more electricity though so it's probably not a fair comparison anyway.
I'm intrigued by everyone's success with black lights. I may just have to try one. Does any "black light bulb" work? A dollar store around here sells them year round for instance.
So is there any difference in the red bulb I'm using and a black bulb, other than the red is going to be brighter?
BTW, I also have a red light for RES at night.
BTW, I also have a red light for RES at night.
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