Help Heating Enclosure

[grundalowtortoises]

Below is a pic of our recently constructed tort table. Size is 2' x 4'. We'll be getting our tortoises (hopefully hermanns), soon, with spring right around the corner.

Our problem is obtaining our desired temperature gradient. We'd like to have 65-90. Problem is, we're getting 65-80. Currently, we have a 100w CHE and 100w MVB. Any suggestions to help us raise temps?

More than happy to answer any questions, to long as it helps us get to happy temps for our future tortoises!

 

[Yvonne G]

The picture's not opening for me, however, I too have a long indoor habitat and in order to get it warm enough, I had to have three light fixtures. A CHE on one end, the UVB in the middle, and a blacklight at the other end. If that didn't work (but it did), I had planned to partially cover the habitat.

 

[grundalowtortoises]

Giving the pic another try...

 

[tortoisenerd]

With a 100 Watt MVB, you can place it from 12 to 18 inches from the substrate to get the desired basking temp. Your room temp would have to be too cold for humans to not be able to get 95 F at 12 inches. If you have low room temps, as Yvonne said, you may need more heat/light, or to cover it. Lower each bulb as low as you can until the temps are the max (the CHE can be lowered until it is a second basking spot...my tort enjoys basking under a CHE every once in awhile). A hood fixture will diffuse more heat than a cage fixture.

Make sure the MVB is parallel to the substrate--this is important for the bulb and the tort's eyes. I think I see the MVB in the cage fixture and the CHE in the hood fixture? I'd switch those as long as they are both ceramic sockets. I would use a lamp stand for both, with fixtures with a hook (not a clamp...they are unstable). With 65 F room temp and a 8 sq ft enclosure, I was able to use a 100 Watt MVB and two 60 Watt CHEs (one is just over the water dish) to get my desired 70-95 F gradient. Now with the same room temp and a 17 sq ft enclosure, I use a 100 Watt MVB, a 100 Watt flood light, and two 60 Watt CHE to get 70-95 F. We set the thermostat to 60 F at night and have a 60 Watt CHE on, but the tort doesn't seem to use it. If you are getting younger torts, a higher night temp of 65-75, depending on age, may be a better idea, which may require night heat.

Once you get both bulbs in lamp stands and lower them, I would expect the temps to work out just fine. I am guessing your MVB is higher than the minimum and that you can't tilt the CHE enough with the clamp fixture.

I would think an 8 sq ft enclosure is too small for two adult Hermanns....are they hatchlings or juveniles? as for the enclosure, I'd ensure you have a hide for each tort in each temperature gradient. I would ditch the half log as they love to climb those and then flip over when getting down. I'd use a slate tile instead of a bowl with a lip, as that gives the tort more space to push the food around, and wears down the beak & nails. Hopefully you can return the clamp fixture, half log, and the food bowls. You can use lots of things for hides, such as a cardboard box, container, pile of substrate or hay (timothy hay or orchard grass), plastic plants with large leaves...they don't have to take up a lot of floor space.

I love the fake plants from Michael's craft store because they break up the line of sight and make great hides without taking up much floor space. I get ones with large leaves that don't drape (torts like to climb, especially my little one, a Russian). I've never had a problem with him trying to eat them besides a test bite (not actually biting anything) the day I put it in. Once you get the tort/s, you'll have to see if that ramp dish works. It didn't work for my tort (he got stuck on the top of the ramp). If they are very small, the Fluker's Groovy Jacuzzi in XL is an awesome dish (only for < 4 inches SCL). For larger torts, a plant saucer or a mini preformed pond liner (Lowe's has some cool ones with ramps) are great.

Also make sure you are using a good thermometer...I wouldn't be surprised if those analog gauges are way off one way of the other. I suggest making the $25+ investment for a temp gun...they equal quick and accurate temps. No waiting or guessing if it is accurate.

 

[grundalowtortoises]

Just a couple of clarifications, based on tortoisenerd's feedback:

• MVB bulb is parallel to substrate @ a height of 12". Temp under it is low 80's.
• We understand that enclosure will be too small for adults, plan to double the size when they outgrow this one.
• We have a temp gun (PE1), temps are based on that.

I'll give switching fixtures a shot, focusing the light from the MVB should help. Reason for going with the wire fixture was to avoid heat build up around the MVB, extending its life. Will definately consider another stand for the CHE...wasn't happy with the angle from being clamped to the side.

Also, I haven't added any rocks or cermanic saucers yet. Hopefully, the can aide in absorbing some more heat.

 

[yagyujubei]

You could get a 150w CHE to swap with the 100w when the weather's at it's coldest, and switch again as it warms up. Or, add another 100w, and use as needed.

 

[tortoisenerd]

I sure hope you can get your temp over 80 F at 12 inches (bulb face to substrate) by switching the fixture...I wouldn't have thought cage vs. hood would make THAT much of a difference, assuming you have a reasonable room temp. I have mine more at 15 inches or so, even in a 60 F room sometimes, and get 95-100 F. If that doesn't fix it, either its a detective bulb or a defective temp gun (bulb more likely).

I don't think trying to prevent heat build up around the MVB will extend its life any...if anything, the useful MVB will run out far before the bulb does (they need to be replaced every 12 months assuming you keep them on 12 hours a day, although sooner is better... I do mine at 9 months). Only thing to extend its life is to use them less hours a day and thus you can use them more months (only the time they are on counts). They really aren't that expensive though...$55/year is a small amount of my total tort budget for the year! Long term I'd invest in a second lamp stand and two ceramic socket hood fixtures with hanging hooks (not the clamps, as I find the clamps very unstable...I worry about them failing and the fixture falling in and starting a fire). But yes, short term, switch them and I expect you to get ok temps unless you have a bad bulb (although usually the issue is with them blowing out, not having too low of heat output)...this is all assuming you have a typical internal ballast MVB like I'm used to though. Good luck!

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Also, you may be able to extend your gradient by moving the two fixture further away. I too have more heat in winter (2 heat emitters) than the warmer months (only MVB & extra light). I found two smaller wattage CHEs (60) much better than one high wattage one (100 or 150) because I could only put the high wattage one so close...makes for a mess of fixtures, but lots of control over the heat gradient, although I haven't messed with it as much as I was expecting (I was really happy with how it turned out and stayed that way).