SuperReggie64

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Aug 6, 2020
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Yorkshire
Hello I'm a new tortoise owner. I just wanted to ask people what's the normal time to feed and how long should they be asleep? Today my tortoise slept for over 15 hours. His 11 years old we think (his a rescue) and is a horsefield tortoise. I have been giving him food twice a day. And I also have been taking him into my garden for about an hour a day to walk around which seems to tire him out as he sleeps after the walk or he slows down and seems warn out.

If anyone could answer that would be great.

Thanks.
 

KarenSoCal

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Hello, and welcome to the forum!

I think most keepers feed in the morning. The tortoise gets up, basks, then eats. I give mine food once daily, and he eats on it all day. Start with an amount the same size he is. At the end of the day, if it's all gone, give a little more the next day. If there's a little left over, you gave the correct amount.

You didn't say how long you have had him, but it can take weeks or months for a tortoise to adjust to a new home. He's nervous about his new surroundings, and you, and that takes energy to deal with. Maybe that's why he is so sleepy. Or, you said he's a rescue. Maybe he was in too small an enclosure and didn't get enough exercise. He needs to build up his strength.

Make sure he is fed good foods, his home is a good environment, and he gets outside every day the weather cooperates. He should be fine.

Here's our care sheet in case you haven't read it. Follow this, and you won't go wrong. It is written for a hatchling, but also covers care for adults.

 
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SuperReggie64

New Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2020
Messages
6
Location (City and/or State)
Yorkshire
Hello, and welcome to the forum!

I think most keepers feed in the morning. The tortoise gets up, basks, then eats. I give mine food once daily, and he eats on it all day. Start with an amount the same size he is. At the end of the day, if it's all gone, give a little more the next day. If there's a little left over, you gave the correct amount.

You didn't say how long you have had him, but it can take weeks or months for a tortoise to adjust to a new home. He's nervous about his new surroundings, and you, and that takes energy to deal with. Maybe that's why he is so sleepy. Or, you said he's a rescue. Maybe he was in too small an enclosure and didn't get enough exercise. He needs to build up his strength.

Make sure he is fed good foods, his home is a good environment, and he gets outside every day the weather cooperates. He should be fine.

Here's our care sheet in case you haven't read it. Follow this, and you won't go wrong. It is written for a hatchling, but also covers care for adults.

Hello yes I have only had him 4 days now and he does try climb out of his table (which makes me think it's too small) and after his walked outside for an hour he stops trying to climb out. Thank you very much for your help.
 

Hutsie B

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Welcome and that care sheet is essential to read through thoroughly. IT is great.
 

Minority2

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Location (City and/or State)
Tortoise Hell
Hello yes I have only had him 4 days now and he does try climb out of his table (which makes me think it's too small) and after his walked outside for an hour he stops trying to climb out. Thank you very much for your help.

Your own enclosure as reference:

I have always hated these types of tables you commonly see members in the UK buying. The combination of stuff the pet shops over there recommend selling to owners usually end up biting them back when the tortoise starts showing worrying signs.

1. Very low sides. Very easy for a motivated Russian to get out when not supervised. Once it disappears you may or may not ever find the tortoise again. The tortoise can be hiding inside the corner of some closet for years or whatever crack or opening that leads them outside. They can also fall and crack their carapace when escaping.
2. The light fixtures are all wrong. UK store shops promote halogen and compact florescent bulbs for use. Both of those bulb types can be/are dangerous to tortoises. You need a long tubular style T5 bulb for uv(B) and a non-pet branded 65watt incandescent flood style (not spotlight) bulb for heat.
3. The substrate level is usually not very deep in short tables like that. Burrowing tortoise need deep substrate levels. 4+ inches for them to burrow their bodies in to thermoregulate.
4. And I also hate how much space the hide box occupies in those tables. Too much trekking space loss from sectioning off an area like that.
5. I don't know how large or old your tortoise is but that enclosure is far too small for your tortoise.
 
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SuperReggie64

New Member
Joined
Aug 6, 2020
Messages
6
Location (City and/or State)
Yorkshire
Your own enclosure as reference:

I have always hated these types of tables you commonly see members in the UK buying. The combination of stuff the pet shops over there recommend selling to owners usually end up biting them back when the tortoise starts showing worrying signs.

1. Very low sides. Very easy for a motivated Russian to get out when not supervised. Once it disappears you may or may not ever find the tortoise again. The tortoise can be hiding inside the corner of some closet for years or whatever crack or opening that leads them outside. They can also fall and crack their carapace when escaping.
2. The light fixtures are all wrong. UK store shops promote halogen and compact florescent bulbs for use. Both of those bulb types can be/are dangerous to tortoises. You need a long tubular style T5 bulb for uv(B) and a non-pet branded 65watt incandescent flood style (not spotlight) bulb for heat.
3. The substrate level is usually not very deep in short tables like that. Burrowing tortoise need deep substrate levels. 4+ inches for them to burrow their bodies in to thermoregulate.
4. And I also hate how much space the hide box occupies in those tables. Too much trekking space loss from sectioning off an area like that.
5. I don't know how large or old your tortoise is but that enclosure is far too small for your tortoise.
Hello I have made improvements to the table now by adding more room to it. Thanks for letting me know about the lights. As soon as payday comes I will replace both lights. His unable to climb out the enclosure he has had that one for years before i got him and never got out and I watched him every day since I got him and his not even got close to climbing out. I'm not worried about him climbing out but the lights now have me worried as I thought they were the right ones. Thanks for the feedback.
 

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Minority2

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Jul 30, 2018
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Location (City and/or State)
Tortoise Hell
Hello I have made improvements to the table now by adding more room to it. Thanks for letting me know about the lights. As soon as payday comes I will replace both lights. His unable to climb out the enclosure he has had that one for years before i got him and never got out and I watched him every day since I got him and his not even got close to climbing out. I'm not worried about him climbing out but the lights now have me worried as I thought they were the right ones. Thanks for the feedback.

Stop using the uv(B) compact florescent bulb this instant. Instead take your tortoise outside a few times per week for some supervised sun. The halogen heat bulb, while can dry, pyramid, and cause inactivity, is less likely to form lasting damage if you were to continue to briefly use it before replacing. The CFL bulb on the other hand will.

For Russian tortoises the sides of the enclosure should be at least about 10-12 inches taller than the substrate line in an indoor enclsoure to prevent escaping. I don't know how old/length of your Russian tortoise is but know that the tortoise should still have a minimum of an 8ft x 4ft indoor enclosure even if you're planning on majorly housing them outside most of the year (if temperatures allow you to do so) because they'll most likely still need that amount of space during the cold winter months.
 

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