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Hi this is 6 month old Myakoda. We found her in the street as a hatchling. Still learning, she's so sweet!

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
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Hi Tom, I just saw your post. This is her set up for now. Has been since we found her almost 6 months ago. In the photo I posted with my Husband holding her, it appears shallow. I now see what you and Ray meant lol. We have on the outside, all around cardboard, so she doesn't go nuts trying to go through it. I read this too, on those other care sheets. They said, the Torty's shouldn't see through the glsss? Before we did it, she did pace, and push her head against the glass. This lasted all of less than 2 days. I read what to do as soon as I noticed. All the lights are on to show her enclosure, she was soaking when we took this a month ago. We had redone her lights for the 4th time. We had a night light that was red, I didn't think that was any good, so we bought a no light night time ceramic heat lamp. It gets up to 72 to 78. Ray--Opo just informed me after reading on another post I did about her night time temp being to low. I agree, now I'm worried. Ugh! I have good news, we ordered a nice Tortoise table, and I found the Orchid substrate you recommended. I ordered 2 bags from Amozon. I can't wait until both arrive. I'm feeling like a bad Torty Mom, I've read so much like I've mentioned. My heat was to low, humidity not high enough, then heat was to high with to low humidity. Night time heat to low in the 70's. :( I will say this often, I'm so glad to be here, I feel it's in the nik of time. She seems healthy, nice shell, a good eater. However, we're stepping her care ASAP! A question, she sleeps in her log a lot. It's up against the glass, so it's not open on both sides. It's more humid in there. However, if she's in there all the time, aside when she eats, soaks, and basks. How can she get the UVB she needs? I've also decided to buy a non clear tub for outside, I will put the Orchid substrate in there, water, and have it 50/50. Half shade, half sun. Also her log as well. I feel she really needs real sun NOW. Also a nice water soak when she's out in the sun. We will not leave her in the tub unsupervised. Also a make light screen for her with chicken wire over the tub. So I'm going to watch her behavior, and see if she seeks shade after sunning. I am open to all advice. Thank you to you both. :)
View attachment 286660
I'm really glad that you are really glad to be here and also glad we can help.

Here are some things I see in your post:
  • Glass tank are fine, but they get too small really fast, and the open tops are a problem.
  • Tortoise tables are no good for this species. The open top allows the cool dry room air to freely circulate with the warm humid air you are trying to create and maintain. You can't keep it warm enough or humid enough with and open top. You need a closed chamber.
  • You've got all kinds of light stuff going on up there.
  • There are four elements to heating and lighting:
    1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt floods from the hardware store. I run them on a timer and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. You can mount a fixture on the ceiling, or hang a dome lamp from the ceiling. Go lower or higher wattage if this makes the enclosure too hot or not warm enough. Do not use "spot" bulbs, mercury vapor bulbs or halogen bulbs because these bulbs are overly desiccating and cause pyramiding even in good living conditions.
    2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species like sulcatas or leopards. I like this thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller. Put the probe in the coolest corner away from all heating elements. You may need more than one heating element to spread the heat out for a given enclosure.
    3. Light. I use florescent tubes for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most tubes at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. I've been using LEDs lately and they are great, and run cooler than a florescent. This can be set on the same timer as the basking bulb.
    4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. If you want it anyway, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. I like the ZooMed 10.0 HO, and the Arcadia 12% HO. Which type will depend on mounting height. It helps to have a UV meter to test and see what your bulb is actually putting out at your mounting height. Plexi-glass or screen tops will filter out some or all of the UV produced by your bulb.
  • You need 3-4 inches of substrate and the lower layers need to be wet. This will help with humidity.
  • Your tortoise is likely trying to hide in the log to get some much needed humidity in an enclosure that is far too dry. Open ended logs are not humid enough. You need a proper humid hide. It could also be the lighting too.
 

Myakoda

Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2020
Messages
69
Location (City and/or State)
AZ.
I'm really glad that you are really glad to be here and also glad we can help.

Here are some things I see in your post:
  • Glass tank are fine, but they get too small really fast, and the open tops are a problem.
  • Tortoise tables are no good for this species. The open top allows the cool dry room air to freely circulate with the warm humid air you are trying to create and maintain. You can't keep it warm enough or humid enough with and open top. You need a closed chamber.
  • You've got all kinds of light stuff going on up there.
  • There are four elements to heating and lighting:
    1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt floods from the hardware store. I run them on a timer and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. You can mount a fixture on the ceiling, or hang a dome lamp from the ceiling. Go lower or higher wattage if this makes the enclosure too hot or not warm enough. Do not use "spot" bulbs, mercury vapor bulbs or halogen bulbs because these bulbs are overly desiccating and cause pyramiding even in good living conditions.
    2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species like sulcatas or leopards. I like this thermostat: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/13883-zilla-1000-watt-temperature-controller. Put the probe in the coolest corner away from all heating elements. You may need more than one heating element to spread the heat out for a given enclosure.
    3. Light. I use florescent tubes for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most tubes at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. I've been using LEDs lately and they are great, and run cooler than a florescent. This can be set on the same timer as the basking bulb.
    4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. If you want it anyway, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. I like the ZooMed 10.0 HO, and the Arcadia 12% HO. Which type will depend on mounting height. It helps to have a UV meter to test and see what your bulb is actually putting out at your mounting height. Plexi-glass or screen tops will filter out some or all of the UV produced by your bulb.
  • You need 3-4 inches of substrate and the lower layers need to be wet. This will help with humidity.
  • Your tortoise is likely trying to hide in the log to get some much needed humidity in an enclosure that is far too dry. Open ended logs are not humid enough. You need a proper humid hide. It could also be the lighting too.
Thank you Tom, yes the above lights are just to show what my husband set up. That's why they're all on, she's not in there. She has 2 UVB lights, a heat lamp, and a ceramic heater. I just realized her night time heat is 80. Also, we do have a thermo temp gun, 2 different types of thermometers. One goes in the bottom, like a suction cup I think. We thought we had the best lights, my husband has bought and tried MANY. We have spent a lot on different bulbs etc.. He and I have talked about the Arcadia light, so that's going to happen now. We cancelled the table. The Orchid bark is on it's way. Her log is up against the enclosure, so it's closed off. However if you have a suggestion for a better humid hide, I'd appreciate it. She gets soaks every day, and a lot of sprays, not enough though. The humidity need to be at 80 all the time. I understand that now. Also heat needs to be higher with higher humidity? Her enclosure daytime is not to hot. Because her humidity is only 50% give or take. and she is an eager muncher. We had to cut back on that just a bit. Last, I have no clue what to use to cover her enclosure, and still be able to use her lighting etc..? I do all the research, my husband sets it all up, then we found some lights weren't correct I'm thinking this last round he bought are good. I will post what they are. Def getting the Arcadia ASAP. I know once we get all this right, it will be much easier, and less worry. I'm obsessed with her health, and well being.
 

Myakoda

Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2020
Messages
69
Location (City and/or State)
AZ.
Thank you Tom, yes the above lights are just to show what my husband set up. That's why they're all on, she's not in there. She has 2 UVB lights, a heat lamp, and a ceramic heater. I just realized her night time heat is 80. Also, we do have a thermo temp gun, 2 different types of thermometers. One goes in the bottom, like a suction cup I think. We thought we had the best lights, my husband has bought and tried MANY. We have spent a lot on different bulbs etc.. He and I have talked about the Arcadia light, so that's going to happen now. We cancelled the table. The Orchid bark is on it's way. Her log is up against the enclosure, so it's closed off. However if you have a suggestion for a better humid hide, I'd appreciate it. She gets soaks every day, and a lot of sprays, not enough though. The humidity need to be at 80 all the time. I understand that now. Also heat needs to be higher with higher humidity? Her enclosure daytime is not to hot. Because her humidity is only 50% give or take. and she is an eager muncher. We had to cut back on that just a bit. Last, I have no clue what to use to cover her enclosure, and still be able to use her lighting etc..? I do all the research, my husband sets it all up, then we found some lights weren't correct I'm thinking this last round he bought are good. I will post what they are. Def getting the Arcadia ASAP. I know once we get all this right, it will be much easier, and less worry. I'm obsessed with her health, and well being.
My husband wants to use the Tortoise tabe for her outside enclosure, so she can have her UVB, then a humid hide spot. He also wants to know why the tables aren't good to use. We'll keep her tank inside, but he said instead of a tub with chicken wire over it for outside. The Torty table would be safer, his opinion. Not sure, sounds reasonable to me.
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
47,348
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
My husband wants to use the Tortoise tabe for her outside enclosure, so she can have her UVB, then a humid hide spot. He also wants to know why the tables aren't good to use. We'll keep her tank inside, but he said instead of a tub with chicken wire over it for outside. The Torty table would be safer, his opinion. Not sure, sounds reasonable to me.
You are on the right track with all these questions. You're gaining much knowledge through all these interactions with us here on the forum. I want to address your points and questions one by one.

  1. Sounds like you already realize that the cfl UV bulbs are no good. What I don't think you realize yet, is that UV isn't that important for people who live in climates like ours. If your tortoise gets a half hour of sunshine a couple of times a week, you don't need indoor UV. More outside tome than that is fine, but unnecessary. Too much outside time is actually bad for babies. An hour of outside time per inch of tortoise is my general rule of thumb. And its fine to skip a few weeks during a winter cold spell. If you are feeding Mazuri or using a calcium supplement with D3, then they are getting their UV that way too. Many new keepers overemphasize the whole UV thing. Where you live with the warm temps most of every year, you can relax about UV a lot.
  2. The open end of that log lets all the humidity out. You need a little plastic tub with a door hole. I use black dishwashing tubs from Walmart for this. $1.82. Flip it upside down, cut out a small door hole, and wet the substrate under it. Done. Your issue will be that your tiny tank doesn't have enough room for this.
  3. Your baby should be allowed to eat as much of the right foods as it wants. They are grazers. Let your baby graze on the right foods all day. Read this one: https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/for-those-who-have-a-young-sulcata.76744/
  4. That tortoise table is too small and will quickly over heat in AZ. Its also way more expensive than it needs to be. You can get a kiddie pool for $15 and make a 2x4 frame with chicken wire for the top, if needed. Here is another idea with 2x12s: IMG_2516.JPG
  5. Tortoise tables are no good for any tropical species because the cooler drier room air continually flushes out and replaces the warm humid air you are trying to create and maintain for your baby. The lights on top also create a chimney effect and most of the heat you are generating is lost into the room. Many members here will suggest ways to close the top of an open topped enclosure. Personally, I've tried it all sorts of ways, and never been satisfied. It just doesn't work well. You need to buy or build a closed chamber and get the lights inside. Like these: https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/new-stack-of-animal-plastics-closed-chambers.165626/ After I had already bought these, my friend @Markw84 started making his own and they are fantastic. Contact him if you are interested. Animal Plastics is great, but it takes several months to get your enclosure. Mark can get it out in two weeks or less sometimes.

There is so much to learn, and YOU are exactly the kind of person I don't mind investing the time to help. Keep those questions coming.
 

Myakoda

Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2020
Messages
69
Location (City and/or State)
AZ.
You are on the right track with all these questions. You're gaining much knowledge through all these interactions with us here on the forum. I want to address your points and questions one by one.

  1. Sounds like you already realize that the cfl UV bulbs are no good. What I don't think you realize yet, is that UV isn't that important for people who live in climates like ours. If your tortoise gets a half hour of sunshine a couple of times a week, you don't need indoor UV. More outside tome than that is fine, but unnecessary. Too much outside time is actually bad for babies. An hour of outside time per inch of tortoise is my general rule of thumb. And its fine to skip a few weeks during a winter cold spell. If you are feeding Mazuri or using a calcium supplement with D3, then they are getting their UV that way too. Many new keepers overemphasize the whole UV thing. Where you live with the warm temps most of every year, you can relax about UV a lot.
  2. The open end of that log lets all the humidity out. You need a little plastic tub with a door hole. I use black dishwashing tubs from Walmart for this. $1.82. Flip it upside down, cut out a small door hole, and wet the substrate under it. Done. Your issue will be that your tiny tank doesn't have enough room for this.
  3. Your baby should be allowed to eat as much of the right foods as it wants. They are grazers. Let your baby graze on the right foods all day. Read this one: https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/for-those-who-have-a-young-sulcata.76744/
  4. That tortoise table is too small and will quickly over heat in AZ. Its also way more expensive than it needs to be. You can get a kiddie pool for $15 and make a 2x4 frame with chicken wire for the top, if needed. Here is another idea with 2x12s: View attachment 286684
  5. Tortoise tables are no good for any tropical species because the cooler drier room air continually flushes out and replaces the warm humid air you are trying to create and maintain for your baby. The lights on top also create a chimney effect and most of the heat you are generating is lost into the room. Many members here will suggest ways to close the top of an open topped enclosure. Personally, I've tried it all sorts of ways, and never been satisfied. It just doesn't work well. You need to buy or build a closed chamber and get the lights inside. Like these: https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/new-stack-of-animal-plastics-closed-chambers.165626/ After I had already bought these, my friend @Markw84 started making his own and they are fantastic. Contact him if you are interested. Animal Plastics is great, but it takes several months to get your enclosure. Mark can get it out in two weeks or less sometimes.

There is so much to learn, and YOU are exactly the kind of person I don't mind investing the time to help. Keep those questions coming.
Wow, that's an amazing, beautiful set up!! They look very happy, and healthy indeed. I do have a question about using heat with plastic. I can't help it lol. Is animal plastic made toxic free? I know plastic and heat can give off harmful toxic fumes. Is this where I go to get them? https://apcages.com/... Also thank you so much for all the in depth information. Wow. :)
 

Myakoda

Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2020
Messages
69
Location (City and/or State)
AZ.
PS, we cancelled the table order, I really would love to get a large one on of these ASAP!! So cool, I would think you wouldn't use these, if you had concerns about toxic plastic. Perhaps a silly question above. Also, as for now, we use cuddlebone powder on her food everyday. She wouldn't touch her food, with the powder we got from Petco. We tried a few, nope. So we put cuddlebone powder on it. I'm not comfortable with just that. I have a feeling the D3 you use is better. If you would please give me that brand name, I will get it right away. She also loves her cuddlbone. Always nibbling on it. Her foods are organic animal grasses, wheat grass, dandelion, collard greens, cactus pads, bok choy here and there, endive a little, she loves also, mustard greens, kale. We mince her grasses in a salad really well, this is the only way she'll eat her grasses. Always more of the grasses in the salad, She's actually persnickety. She will not touch any brand of the Tortoise foods. However, I'm working on that. Oh and we're getting the tub for her enclosure now. Taking the log out, it's a 40 gallon tank.
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
47,348
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
PS, we cancelled the table order, I really would love to get a large one on of these ASAP!! So cool, I would think you wouldn't use these, if you had concerns about toxic plastic. Perhaps a silly question above. Also, as for now, we use cuddlebone powder on her food everyday. She wouldn't touch her food, with the powder we got from Petco. We tried a few, nope. So we put cuddlebone powder on it. I'm not comfortable with just that. I have a feeling the D3 you use is better. If you would please give me that brand name, I will get it right away. She also loves her cuddlbone. Always nibbling on it. Her foods are organic animal grasses, wheat grass, dandelion, collard greens, cactus pads, bok choy here and there, endive a little, she loves also, mustard greens, kale. We mince her grasses in a salad really well, this is the only way she'll eat her grasses. Always more of the grasses in the salad, She's actually persnickety. She will not touch any brand of the Tortoise foods. However, I'm working on that. Oh and we're getting the tub for her enclosure now. Taking the log out, it's a 40 gallon tank.
These cages are made of expanded PVC. Its safe and non-toxic, but it would melt if you put something hot enough in contact with it. Once you switch to a closed chamber, you'll need much lower wattage bulbs. They are very efficient. It will save you a ton on electricity usage.

Babies are always picky unless the breeder spends time introducing all sorts of new foods when they first hatch.

I like the Rep-Cal brand calcium, but anything made for reptiles should be fine. If they won't eat their food with that on it, you are using too much. All you need is a tiny little dusting a couple of times a week. I like the "pinch" method that Yvonne mentions from time to time. Just one little pinch.
 

Myakoda

Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2020
Messages
69
Location (City and/or State)
AZ.
These cages are made of expanded PVC. Its safe and non-toxic, but it would melt if you put something hot enough in contact with it. Once you switch to a closed chamber, you'll need much lower wattage bulbs. They are very efficient. It will save you a ton on electricity usage.

Babies are always picky unless the breeder spends time introducing all sorts of new foods when they first hatch.

I like the Rep-Cal brand calcium, but anything made for reptiles should be fine. If they won't eat their food with that on it, you are using too much. All you need is a tiny little dusting a couple of times a week. I like the "pinch" method that Yvonne mentions from time to time. Just one little pinch.
Ok, I'll do that. I have that brand in there. Thank you, I'm going to ask Mark, if I can order ASAP from him. I hope I understood correctly, he has these? She needs this enclosure now. It would be a relief, I worry about her a lot. Mya after a nice soak. We're keeping her enclosure a humid as we can, until we get the proper enclosure.
 

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Myakoda

Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2020
Messages
69
Location (City and/or State)
AZ.
The lights you are using might be hurting Myakoda's eyes. That might be the reason she stays in her hide.
I am not sure what you have outside as a yard. If you don't fertilize your grass let Myakoda roam around. ( supervised). I stayed right next to Opo because of the hawks.
Chicken wire is good any fine screen or sunshine thru glass. Will reduce the UVB.
You giving her a soak after being in the sun is a good idea.
Dont worry it gets easier as they get bigger. It also gets more expensive.
But hey you gotta love-em!😁
We love her. Yes we have a lot of room in the back. However, the neighbors spray, it concerns me. I thought, I'll keep her in a large plastic tub, and soak her. Let her have sunshine for a bit, but making sure she has a shady spot under the patio. You know, half her tub half under the sun, half under the patio. I will not even leave her alone in a tub, also we'll do some chicken wire. My husband already has the plans. This weekend is when we will do it. Oh, and it will be a LARGE tub, I want her to walk more, so she processes her minerals and calcium better. She has great bowl movements, huge. Really startling lol.
 

Myakoda

Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2020
Messages
69
Location (City and/or State)
AZ.
Ok, I'll do that. I have that brand in there. Thank you, I'm going to ask Mark, if I can order ASAP from him. I hope I understood correctly, he has these? She needs this enclosure now. It would be a relief, I worry about her a lot. Mya after a nice soak. We're keeping her enclosure a humid as we can, until we get the proper enclosure.
Oh I keep forgetting to mention this. I've had a few people tell me she may be a AZ desert Torty, because she's to brown to be be a Sulcata. I'm pretty sure she a Sully! I have read their shells vary slightly, from more yellow to browns. I can't rely on that to much, giving it's where I got some of my early info from. I'm glad I thought ouside the box he, he, pun intended, and used some of my instincts before coming here. A lot just didn't seem right to me, then I thoguht what do I know. I've had many different animals my whole life, and am well read, and know quite a bit. But Tortoises are a special little species, interesting, elusive, beautiful, and oh so cute! I still can't believe we found her the middle of the road! I say, she found the right humans, then I found you all! :)🙌🙌
 

Ray--Opo

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Messages
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Palm Bay Fl
Oh I keep forgetting to mention this. I've had a few people tell me she may be a AZ desert Torty, because she's to brown to be be a Sulcata. I'm pretty sure she a Sully! I have read their shells vary slightly, from more yellow to browns. I can't rely on that to much, giving it's where I got some of my early info from. I'm glad I thought ouside the box he, he, pun intended, and used some of my instincts before coming here. A lot just didn't seem right to me, then I thoguht what do I know. I've had many different animals my whole life, and am well read, and know quite a bit. But Tortoises are a special little species, interesting, elusive, beautiful, and oh so cute! I still can't believe we found her the middle of the road! I say, she found the right humans, then I found you all! :)🙌🙌
I am not well versed in indenyfing from a front view. If you can give a pic of the top of the shell it would be easier for me to identify.
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 9, 2010
Messages
47,348
Location (City and/or State)
Southern California
Oh I keep forgetting to mention this. I've had a few people tell me she may be a AZ desert Torty, because she's to brown to be be a Sulcata. I'm pretty sure she a Sully! I have read their shells vary slightly, from more yellow to browns. I can't rely on that to much, giving it's where I got some of my early info from.
There is a lot of tortoise ignorance out in the world. You have a Sulcata. I'm 100% sure. The front leg scales, skin color and height of the dome make it very obvious.

Send a "conversation" (aka: private message) to Markw84 here on the forum. I'll also notify him here: @Markw84
 

Ray--Opo

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There is a lot of tortoise ignorance out in the world. You have a Sulcata. I'm 100% sure. The front leg scales, skin color and height of the dome make it very obvious.

Send a "conversation" (aka: private message) to Markw84 here on the forum. I'll also notify him here: @Markw84
I agree with Tom . I found a pic in the thread that showed no extra scute right behind the neck. That and the spikes on her legs
I know you were concerned about dry air in AZ. I am sure we have members here that keep sullies in AZ. Maybe one of them will chime in.
 

Myakoda

Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2020
Messages
69
Location (City and/or State)
AZ.
I agree with Tom . I found a pic in the thread that showed no extra scute right behind the neck. That and the spikes on her legs
I know you were concerned about dry air in AZ. I am sure we have members here that keep sullies in AZ. Maybe one of them will chime in.
I have to admitt, I call her she. However, I don't know for sure. The first month we called Mya a boy lol. I've read you can tell by the tail?
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
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Joined
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Messages
47,348
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I have to admitt, I call her she. However, I don't know for sure. The first month we called Mya a boy lol. I've read you can tell by the tail?
You can tell by the tail, and several other characteristics, when they are closer to maturity. Usually by around 14-15". The little ones don't show any reliable sexual dimorphism, and the secondary sexual characteristics don't show up until they are almost mature.
 

Myakoda

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Joined
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Messages
69
Location (City and/or State)
AZ.
You can tell by the tail, and several other characteristics, when they are closer to maturity. Usually by around 14-15". The little ones don't show any reliable sexual dimorphism, and the secondary sexual characteristics don't show up until they are almost mature.
Myakoda having a midday snack of dandelion. She had her grasses this morrning. So cute! :) Mark got a hold of me this morning. Thank you for the refference, I can't wait for the Orchid bark to get here. Should be here on the 25th. 🐢
 

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Myakoda

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Location (City and/or State)
AZ.
Myakoda having a midday snack of dandelion. She had her grasses this morrning. So cute! :) Mark got a hold of me this morning. Thank you for the refference, I can't wait for the Orchid bark to get here. Should be here on the 25th. 🐢
PS, I really am excited about getting a
You can tell by the tail, and several other characteristics, when they are closer to maturity. Usually by around 14-15". The little ones don't show any reliable sexual dimorphism, and the secondary sexual characteristics don't show up until they are almost mature.
PS, I'm super excited about Mark's enclosure, so is Myakoda!
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
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Messages
47,348
Location (City and/or State)
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Myakoda having a midday snack of dandelion. She had her grasses this morrning. So cute! :) Mark got a hold of me this morning. Thank you for the refference, I can't wait for the Orchid bark to get here. Should be here on the 25th. 🐢
Looks like you already have orchid bark in the picture.
 

Sa Ga

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Joined
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Messages
434
Location (City and/or State)
MN
The lights you are using might be hurting Myakoda's eyes. That might be the reason she stays in her hide.
I am not sure what you have outside as a yard. If you don't fertilize your grass let Myakoda roam around. ( supervised). I stayed right next to Opo because of the hawks.
Chicken wire is good any fine screen or sunshine thru glass. Will reduce the UVB.
You giving her a soak after being in the sun is a good idea.
Dont worry it gets easier as they get bigger. It also gets more expensive.
But hey you gotta love-em!😁
As your love does grow...so does the credit card bill.... 😉

Tortie----> 🐢❤
You------->😍🍲 <----eating Ramen, only affordable meal...
 

Myakoda

Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2020
Messages
69
Location (City and/or State)
AZ.
Looks like you already have orchid bark in the picture.
That's the reptibark I decided to start using about a few weeks or less after we found her. We did the pellets first, per the advise of a 'pet store', then I said these need to go now. Somethings not right, and they stink. So she's had reptibark, almost her whole 6 months. Also I went against a lot of the advise on the foods they suggested, like tomatoes, watermelon, Iceberg,, and grapes! UGH!
 

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