How much to feed baby sulcata

[Seejai]

I just got my adorable baby sulcata who, I am estimating, is a yearish old (he/she is a little over 2 inches I believe). Anyways, it just snowed today in good ol' North Dakota and I live in an apartment, so there is not much grazing to be had for him.

I keep reading that over feeding can cause accelerated growth and pyramiding. I'm a senior in college so I will soon have a larger place to live, but that being said, I don't want him to grow faster than the normal rate.

So far I have been giving him a mixture of kale, apples, bananas, chopped bluegrass, sunflower petals, green peppers, and occasionally Nature Bites, juvenile tortoise food (which I do every few days or so, because it looks like it is probably protein fortified). He eats like a champ, and I haven't seen him turn down anything except basil. I feed him about twice a day, maybe the size of a couple small marbles each time. I've been trying to give him a soak every other day, but he always gets annoyed and tries to escape. His living quarters are about 1.5x1.5 feet. I can already tell it's a bit small, but he gets some supervised exercise time on the floor.

And OK, one more newbie question. How much handling is OK for him? I live on campus, so I'm always wanting to show him off, is taking him out of his tank a few times a day bad as long as it's not for too long?

Any recommendations for portion size? Like I said, he's a great eater and I don't think he'd turn much down, so I don't want him to grow faster than normal. Thanks!

 

[wellington]

First off, your enclosure is way too small. The temps are probably not very good or to hot, there isn't enough room to really regulate in that size. He also should have a water dish available 24/7, large enough for him to get into. Also a flat rock or stone or tile to eat off of. It helps keep their beak trimmed. The amount you are feeding is not enough. The size of him at least twice a day, if it is all eaten then give a little more. He really should have something to eat when ever he feels like it. Also, the fruit is not really good for him. I would not feed that. If you do, make it more like once a month. Check out the threads below, they are more for hatchlings to a year old. Also you will need the same temps listed in the threads, basking 95-100, ambient 80-85, with the higher humidity, the temp shouldn't go below 80, with out the higher humidity, they can go lower.

 

[Seejai]

First off, your enclosure is way too small. The temps are probably not very good or to hot, there isn't enough room to really regulate in that size. He also should have a water dish available 24/7, large enough for him to get into. Also a flat rock or stone or tile to eat off of. It helps keep their beak trimmed. The amount you are feeding is not enough. The size of him at least twice a day, if it is all eaten then give a little more. He really should have something to eat when ever he feels like it. Also, the fruit is not really good for him. I would not feed that. If you do, make it more like once a month. Check out the threads below, they are more for hatchlings to a year old. Also you will need the same temps listed in the threads, basking 95-100, ambient 80-85, with the higher humidity, the temp shouldn't go below 80, with out the higher humidity, they can go lower.

Thank you! I have been having an impossible time finding an actual portion recommendation.

The opposite corner of the light is at 80, and it is about 90 under the light. He likes to burrow under the rock, right about where the light hits. I think I need to get a higher wattage bulb, because I have to keep half of the aquarium covered to keep it at that temp.

This pic was taken the day I got him (Saturday). I have a long, flat rock up the log now because he kept trying to climb the log and falling on his back. I've also replaced the sand with peat moss. I usually put his food on that long white thing, which is the calcium thing, but I could replace that with a log. Should that be in there all the time? I think I'll take out the small food dish, because it's not a very good shape for him and I've been usuing the calcium thing anyways. Should I spray the peat moss to add some humidity?

I've read those links by the way, I'm just trying to iron out my specific concerns, so thank you!

---

And just to clarify, kale is OK? I have been giving him some, but I thought I read not too much. And also I bought some baby pumpkins, and I read to give hiim that sparingly.

 

[wellington]

Yes on the kale sparingly and also the pumpkin. Leave the cuttlebone (white thing) in there all the time. You can use it to feed on, but seeing you need to give him more at one time, it might not fit too good. Your temps for basking does need to be a little higher. If you can find the space though, you really need to get a larger enclosure. The 50 gallon tubs like at Home Depot will work good and not too expensive. Having have the enclosure covered is a good thing, will help hold in not only the temp, but also humidity. For humidity, either do a humid hide, if he will use it, or spray his whole enclosure several,times a day. I forgot to answer the handling you asked about. It's really up to you and how he reacts. Some will tell you never to handle him others will say its okay, but not often. I say, if he doesn't seem to mind, handle him all you want. The more he is comfortable with you, to me the better.

 

[mainey34]

Hello and welcome. Don't forget, hydration. Make sure you soak that little guy at least 2 times a day. He may not like it now, but he will get used to it. It is very important.

 

[Tom]

Okay. You asked for some help here, so I'm gonna give it to you.
1. That baby still has an egg tooth. It's probably less than 4 weeks old.
2. See that split scute? That usually means incubation temps on the high side, and that usually means a female. Usually, not always.
3. Keep him off of the floor. Just a question of time until she eats something or gets injured somehow.
4. Buy or build a bigger enclosure.
5. See if you can return those bowls and instead use some terra cotta plant saucers from Lowes.
6. Stop feeding fruit. It's bad for their intestinal flora and fauna. Here's a great diet sheet:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/thread-52677.html#axzz28MV9lOYO
7. Pyramiding is not caused by fast growth or too much food. It is caused by growth in the wrong conditions and dehydration. Soak your tiny baby daily in warm shallow water in a tall sided tub for 20-30 minutes. Don't worry about her not liking it. They get used to it and it's good for them. So is all the exercise they get trying to climb out of the tub.
8. Feed your baby a big pile a couple of times a day.
9. Handling should be fine. Watch his appetite and energy level. If either drop off, cut back on the handling.
10. Again, you need a bigger enclosure.
11. Your baby needs a proper humid hide.
12. You read those threads, but it doesn't seem like you followed any of it. Those threads contain a lot of current info and they are a proven recipe for success. I think you need to re-read them and make some adjustments. If it sounds like I am being pushy, it is because I am, but for a good reason. The first few weeks are absolutely CRITICAL. Any mistakes made now will be amplified and exaggerated in the future. We don't have time for you to slowly and patiently figure this all out. If the first few weeks are not done right, you will do damage that cannot be undone. There is no time for a learning curve with a tiny hatchling like that one. You've got to get it right as soon as possible.

 

[Seejai]

Okay. You asked for some help here, so I'm gonna give it to you.
1. That baby still has an egg tooth. It's probably less than 4 weeks old.
2. See that split scute? That usually means incubation temps on the high side, and that usually means a female. Usually, not always.
3. Keep him off of the floor. Just a question of time until she eats something or gets injured somehow.
4. Buy or build a bigger enclosure.
5. See if you can return those bowls and instead use some terra cotta plant saucers from Lowes.
6. Stop feeding fruit. It's bad for their intestinal flora and fauna. Here's a great diet sheet:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/thread-52677.html#axzz28MV9lOYO
7. Pyramiding is not caused by fast growth or too much food. It is caused by growth in the wrong conditions and dehydration. Soak your tiny baby daily in warm shallow water in a tall sided tub for 20-30 minutes. Don't worry about her not liking it. They get used to it and it's good for them. So is all the exercise they get trying to climb out of the tub.
8. Feed your baby a big pile a couple of times a day.
9. Handling should be fine. Watch his appetite and energy level. If either drop off, cut back on the handling.
10. Again, you need a bigger enclosure.
11. Your baby needs a proper humid hide.
12. You read those threads, but it doesn't seem like you followed any of it. Those threads contain a lot of current info and they are a proven recipe for success. I think you need to re-read them and make some adjustments. If it sounds like I am being pushy, it is because I am, but for a good reason. The first few weeks are absolutely CRITICAL. Any mistakes made now will be amplified and exaggerated in the future. We don't have time for you to slowly and patiently figure this all out. If the first few weeks are not done right, you will do damage that cannot be undone. There is no time for a learning curve with a tiny hatchling like that one. You've got to get it right as soon as possible.

What are the best grocery store foods for him? He loves kale but I'm trying to do that sparingly. On that list, Bok Choy, plantain, and spinach are the only things I think I can reliably get at the store, and that's what's stressing me out. I bought some bluestem grass that is in a pot, but I usually have to mix it with other things to get him to eat it. Again, I live in North Dakota where it is snowing and I'm trying to grow things in my apartment, but I'm going to have to buy most of his food at our not very vegetable-y diverse grocery stores.

Is it possible the egg tooth is from it not eating off of a rock? I'm just in shock that it could even be sold that young.

What is a humid hide? Would that just be a damp area maybe under his log?
I feel better about his/her hydration because I sat him in the water dish and he finally stayed and even put his head in the water to to drink and then climbed out half an hour later and actually returned on his own in the morning (it's shallow and accessible).

Is the split scute the extra line thing on the shell? We saw that when we bought her(?) and thought it was pretty, I didn't know it could indicate gender. That would be cool, so I could finally name it.

Sorry so many questions, I really am trying to fix these issues!

 

[Seejai]

Okay. You asked for some help here, so I'm gonna give it to you.
1. That baby still has an egg tooth. It's probably less than 4 weeks old.
2. See that split scute? That usually means incubation temps on the high side, and that usually means a female. Usually, not always.
3. Keep him off of the floor. Just a question of time until she eats something or gets injured somehow.
4. Buy or build a bigger enclosure.
5. See if you can return those bowls and instead use some terra cotta plant saucers from Lowes.
6. Stop feeding fruit. It's bad for their intestinal flora and fauna. Here's a great diet sheet:
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/thread-52677.html#axzz28MV9lOYO
7. Pyramiding is not caused by fast growth or too much food. It is caused by growth in the wrong conditions and dehydration. Soak your tiny baby daily in warm shallow water in a tall sided tub for 20-30 minutes. Don't worry about her not liking it. They get used to it and it's good for them. So is all the exercise they get trying to climb out of the tub.
8. Feed your baby a big pile a couple of times a day.
9. Handling should be fine. Watch his appetite and energy level. If either drop off, cut back on the handling.
10. Again, you need a bigger enclosure.
11. Your baby needs a proper humid hide.
12. You read those threads, but it doesn't seem like you followed any of it. Those threads contain a lot of current info and they are a proven recipe for success. I think you need to re-read them and make some adjustments. If it sounds like I am being pushy, it is because I am, but for a good reason. The first few weeks are absolutely CRITICAL. Any mistakes made now will be amplified and exaggerated in the future. We don't have time for you to slowly and patiently figure this all out. If the first few weeks are not done right, you will do damage that cannot be undone. There is no time for a learning curve with a tiny hatchling like that one. You've got to get it right as soon as possible.

What are the best grocery store foods for him? He loves kale but I'm trying to do that sparingly. On that list, Bok Choy, plantain, and spinach are the only things I think I can reliably get at the store, and that's what's stressing me out. I bought some bluestem grass that is in a pot, but I usually have to mix it with other things to get him to eat it. Again, I live in North Dakota where it is snowing and I'm trying to grow things in my apartment, but I'm going to have to buy most of his food at our not very vegetable-y diverse grocery stores.

Is it possible the egg tooth is from it not eating off of a rock? I'm just in shock that it could even be sold that young.

What is a humid hide? Would that just be a damp area maybe under his log?
I feel better about his/her hydration because I sat him in the water dish and he finally stayed and even put his head in the water to to drink and then climbed out half an hour later and actually returned on his own in the morning (it's shallow and accessible).

Is the split scute the extra line thing on the shell? We saw that when we bought her(?) and thought it was pretty, I didn't know it could indicate gender. That would be cool, so I could finally name it.

Sorry so many questions, I really am trying to fix these issues!

Ok, I found how to make a humid hide. In side the box, would I put wet peat moss?

 

[Tom]

I'm so glad you are accepting of the help. Some people just take it the wrong way.

From the grocery store: Endive and escarole. Red or greenleaf lettuce. Butter lettuce. Cilantro. Celery or carrot tops. Bok choy. Swiss or red chard. Radicchio. Parsley. Watercress. Etc... The list is endless. Use lots of variety. Do you have a Costco or Smart and Final near you? Look for spring mix or Santa Barbara mix too. If you must use grocery store food, go to the tortoisesupply.com website and order a product called "Salad Style" it is basically finely blended grass hay that you sprinkle on top of the grocery store food to add fiber and make it better for them. Also, order some cactus pads and you can grow them in pots.

Sphagnum moss will work fine in your humid hide. So will coco coir or orchid bark. Just make sure you use an opaque plastic container of some sort. Lately I've been using upside down black dish washing tubs from Walmart with a door role cut out. Only cost a couple of bucks.

For soaking you need to use a separate tall sided tub that he can not climb out of. Use warm water about half way up his shell and leave him in for 20-30 minutes every day. Don't let the water get cold and be prepared to dump and refresh as needed as she poops.

Don't worry we're here to help you. You are not alone. Ask as many questions as you like.

 

[tessacat1795]

This thread really helped me with food question too. There are several things, like the lettuces, that I wasn't sure on. I have a great store across the street from where I work that has a large organic section, so I am lucky there. Thanks for the questions, and all the helpful info.