I have no idea what I'm doing.

Should the fan heater be on or off?


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So yesterday I got a Russian Tortoise for my Birthday, was completely caught off-guard by it and have been freaking me the heck out about it. While my sister, who was the one who brought it, has done some research on taking care of tortoises it's not enough to answer all my questions.

So I've made this forum to ask you lot a lot of questions.

The first and most pressing being, should I leave Dr. Speedy's (the tortoise) fan-based heater on (the heat lamp my sister got didn't work so we had to make due with that we are going to replace it) or turn it off. The room they are in feels like room temperature (i.e. 20c, which most places seem to say is good for nighttime EDIT: The room feels a bit cooler now) but we don't have any way of checking (we are getting a thermometer soon).

What's more dangerous? It potentially being too cold or too warm? Last night it was left on but I thought they looked somewhat dried out (my sister didn't agree) and less active though I did, stupidly, not turn on the light until 10 in the mourning but the room he was in didn't have curtains so he did get some light before.

Oh, and if's it relevant, we soaked them both today and yesterday and they seem to be eating well.
 

T Smart

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Hi,

Here’s a great thread to read.

Russian Tortoise Care Sheet
https://tortoiseforum.org/index.php?threads/Russian-Tortoise-Care-Sheet.

Also, do you mind posting a picture of your setup? A pictures worth a thousand words.

Try to get the heat lamp fixed ASAP. Without it your little dude won’t be active and can’t digest his/her food properly. If your tortoise is an adult, then it can handle nighttime drops into the 60s F.
 

TechnoCheese

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Welcome to the forum!

Since this is a Russian tortoise, being too cold can make them try to go into brumation(hibernation), but having temps too high can also be harmful. I would have the heat on, but make sure the tortoise can escape from the heat.

You mentioned soaking “both”. Are there two tortoises? Are they being housed together?

Keep in mind that if this tortoise is an adult, it requires a minimum enclosure size of 8x4 feet.

We would love to see pictures of your tortoise and enclosure.

Be sure to give these a read :)
Russian Tortoise Care Sheet https://tortoiseforum.org/index.php?threads/Russian-Tortoise-Care-Sheet.80698/

Beginner Mistakes https://tortoiseforum.org/index.php?threads/Beginner-Mistakes.45180/
 

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Overdue hello to you people and sorry for the late reply!

By both I meant on both days not both tortoises. There is only one, thankfully.

They are only a few months old but I am worried the enclosure may be too small for and it certainly lacks furnishing (something that I've only recently found out reduces stress) though their is a place it can get shade The last I saw off it, it was putting it's water container thingy over it's head.

These photos are the only ones I can get right now and are all from yesterday, my tortoise is asleep and I don't want to disturb it. (I've kicked myself out of my own room because of it.) I'll take some if any of you think it's urgent.
IMG_9908[1].JPEG IMG_0151[1].JPG
The former photo is them in their enclosure and the later is them on a desk after having been washed. I admit that the photos aren't too helpful especially considering their from before I thought they looked dry.

My sister's ordered a new lamp and it's been eating well, I think, dose that suggest that it's digestion is okay?

Next Question: more for my peace of mind then anything else, how likely is it for Dr. Planck Speedy to die/be seriously and/or irrevocably damaged mentally or physically due to my incompetence before I fully understand what they need and have got everything we missed.
 

JoesMum

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You have clearly been given outdated information on the care of tortoises. Those pellets are not a suitable substrate. They are far too dry.

This species needs to be raised in a warm and humid environment when as young as this. This means a closed chamber rather than an open table - it needs a lid, a cover or a plant tent over it.

The substrate needs to be an earthy type that you can mix with water until all of it is evenly damp, right to the bottom and into the corners. Fine grade orchid bark or coco coir are good. They are best when bought from a garden centre, DIY store or Amazon as the pet store equivalents insist on mixing things in them, like sand or calcium pieces, which are actually hazardous!

I recommend you read the TFO care guides and compare them with the setup and care you provide. They are written by species experts working hard to correct the outdated information widely available on the internet and from pet stores and, sadly, from some breeders and vets too.

Beginner Mistakes
https://www.tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

Baby Russian Tortoise Care
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/b...or-other-herbivorous-tortoise-species.107734/
 

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How long will it be okay for in it's current substrate? I am not sure the earliest we can replace it.

The current lid on it's container are metal bars, is this okay?

How has this forum gained updated information? Did people here conduct independent scientific research or is this more anecdotal?
 

TechnoCheese

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How long will it be okay for in it's current substrate? I am not sure the earliest we can replace it.

The current lid on it's container are metal bars, is this okay?

How has this forum gained updated information? Did people here conduct independent scientific research or is this more anecdotal?

A lot of forum members have actually conducted their own research, and most experiment with care to find what works best. As far as I know, most things, if not everything more experienced members say has been proven to work.

It stays updated because, like I mentioned, people here are constantly experimenting and trying new things :)
 

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A lot of forum members have actually conducted their own research, and most experiment with care to find what works best. As far as I know, most things, if not everything more experienced members say has been proven to work.

It stays updated because, like I mentioned, people here are constantly experimenting and trying new things :)
Yeah that makes sense, the community is why I am more inclined to believe this website over pet shops and other websites (and the fact that my sister recommended it probably biased me in favor of it).
 
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Almost any Substrate would be better than Pine Pellet Horse bedding. Your going to dehydrate that Hatchling within days like that. Those are made to Absorb moisture. I use them in my Rodent Breeder tubs and they soak up any moisture present and expand. Please do what you can to follow the advice ASAP from the people here that have spent countless hours perfecting the health and safety of their Pets. Even Top soil would be better than Pine pellets. Those are a death sentence.
 

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Here are some more pictures.
 

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Thank you, is the more expensive one noticeably better?

Should I regularly spray my tortoise to keep him hydrated before we get a better substrate?

And should I put some cover over the substrate?

I've been told a wet substrate can cause shell rot, is this true?
 
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JoesMum

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Thank you, is the more expensive one noticeably better?
Tom is the expert with this species and he prefers the fine grade orchid bark with very young tortoises.
Should I regularly spray my tortoise to keep him hydrated before we get a better substrate?
Spraying will just make the sand stick to your tortoise and the food increasing the risk that your tort will eat it. Sand impacts in the gut. A tort this size should be getting daily soaks of at least 20 minutes, up them to thirty minutes for the time being. When you have the correct substrate, spraying will help to slow down the drying out of the substrate.
And should I put some cover over the substrate?
Not sure what you mean. You will need a cover on the enclosure to keep the heat and humidity in. It needs to go round the lights. Plexiglass/perspex or even kitchen foil will do the job.
I've been told a wet substrate can cause shell rot, is this true?
Very wet substrate can cause shell rot. But we are not recommending very wet substrate. You need all the substrate to be evenly DAMP rather than sodden. Get water in a jug, tip some in and mix thoroughly with your hands. Repeat until all of the substrate is evenly damp right to the bottom and into the corners. You will need to repeat this every few weeks as the substrate dries out. The substrate should be 7-10cm/3-4" deep.

Try to get hold of a terracotta plant saucer for water rather than the plastic one you have. The terracotta ones have less steep sides.

For food you should use a piece of flat rock or slate, or even the back (wrong side) of a ceramic wall tile. This is easy to eat off and the roughness helps keep your tort's beak in shape while it eats.
 

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So by cover do you mean this:
IMG_0186[1].JPG

and/or this:
IMG_0187[1].JPG

And would this work for food?
IMG_0183[1].JPG

Also would it be a good idea to dig up some soil from my garden as a temporary substrate or should I use the tiles above or should I keep it as it is?

Are their any furnishings you recommend? Could I take rocks from my garden and place them in the enclosure?

Not sure what you mean. You will need a cover on the enclosure to keep the heat and humidity in. It needs to go round the lights. Plexiglass/perspex or even kitchen foil will do the job.
I was asking if I should but some cover over the substrate as it is actively harming the tortoise?
 

CALM Pythons

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What I meant was soil would be better that the pine pellets, but no you should not go get soil.
Your enclosure will work but you need to slow down and start over. I dont know your age or if you drive but you need to change the set-up now. That Hatchling will not survive like this. They dehydrate within days.
Go to the Care Sheets provided here. I cant list everything you need to do. You have to read the Care Sheet, then make a list of what you need. Even your water dish is useless. The sides are so high he will either flip over or he wont be able get in at all.
Take all that Pine out of there asap. Leave him on paper and get to the store to get what you need.
Not sure how long you’ve had him but at anytime he could go downhill living on horse pine. Thats basically saw dust.
Id give him a soak now in 85-90 degree water for 20 min before you leave him for hours and before you work on the enclosure. He needs hydration.
 

JoesMum

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So by cover do you mean this:
View attachment 261190
Yes this
No not that at all. It is probably a fire risk.
And would this work for food?
View attachment 261191
Yes it would
Also would it be a good idea to dig up some soil from my garden as a temporary substrate or should I use the tiles above or should I keep it as it is?
Leave it as it is as long as we are only talking a couple of weeks or so.

Are their any furnishings you recommend? Could I take rocks from my garden and place them in the enclosure?


I was asking if I should but some cover over the substrate as it is actively harming the tortoise?
Rocks are fine.
Plants work well. Plastic or real. Check live plants for suitability on The Tortoise Table Plant Database. Sink the pot into the substrate rather than try to grow them in the substrate. The substrate doesn't have to be flat - tortoises enjoy climbing mounds :)
 

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What I meant was soil would be better that the pine pellets, but no you should not go get soil.
Your enclosure will work but you need to slow down and start over. I dont know your age or if you drive but you need to change the set-up now. That Hatchling will not survive like this. They dehydrate within days.
Go to the Care Sheets provided here. I cant list everything you need to do. You have to read the Care Sheet, then make a list of what you need. Even your water dish is useless. The sides are so high he will either flip over or he wont be able get in at all.
Take all that Pine out of there asap. Leave him on paper and get to the store to get what you need.
Not sure how long you’ve had him but at anytime he could go downhill living on horse pine. Thats basically saw dust.
Id give him a soak now in 85-90 degree water for 20 min before you leave him for hours and before you work on the enclosure. He needs hydration.
Why are you telling me to slow down when the tortoise is at risk of dying?

Also I've mentioned when I got him, New Years Eve as a birthday present.

Dose anybody else agree that it would be better to leave him on paper then pine? Unless I'm mistaken @JoesMum says that it would be okay for a couple of weeks and I am fairly certain I would be sorted for sure by the end of this week at the latest.
 
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