I recommend putting kiddos that do not have open lesions in moist sphagnum moss a few inches deep with a bedding temperature range of 77-83F at any given time (you want the full range for thermoregulation) achieved using a small undertank reptile mat connected to a thermostatic control. Provide a SMALL basking area where temps reach 87F. Aracadia IV lighting is best (never use coil lights). Include heavy plant cover (artificial fine) and shallow water dish. Add leaf litter for extra hiding; no hut. My diet is at www.boxturtlefacts.org.
In the wild, young Easterns rarely sit at the surface; they spend most of their time in the leaf litter column during the active season. (I spent years studying them in the field). In captivity, if moss is heated from beneath or from the side with a pad, young Easterns generally prefer to seek warmth buried in the moss. This keeps the animal in a humid, moist world that benefits normal shell health and overall appearance. The turtle is not forced to sit out under a basking light which can cause keratin to dry out and the shell to malform. I have used controlled 7 watt heating pads for box turtle babies and young juvies for many years without incident. The moss must be VERY moist.
Hello…I’ve found too many inconsistencies and variables with a heat mat. While this may work for you, this information maybe better suited for experienced care takers not for new and novice keepers especially with special needs cases. Personally, I’ve found over the years the importance of hatchlings/yearlings to thermoregulate themselves within the enclosure much like in the wild. I won’t get into all that as you seem to already know, but I’ve found those mats to tend to be extremely inconsistent on their heat output even on a thermostat(usually much hotter) and they just don’t last very long(hazard). However, if you feel comfortable with your set up and it works for you more power to you.
As for development of the shell, yes humidity plays a role and so does D3, but diet is the #1 way to properly develop the growth of a box turtle. I’ve raised hatchlings with just a 75watt incandescent heat bulb with no UV light for 1 year and the results were no different the ones I supplied with a UV light with the same diet. Supplementing a proper variable diet filled with high calcium, minerals, and vitamin A is more important to me. Yes, we need to supply enough heat for the little boogers to digest their food but we also don’t want to accidentally and unknowingly cook them from the bottom of the tank.
Now, I have done a setup for hatchlings with a fish tank heater method. Where I took 2 Rubbermaid containers (1 larger to hold the water, the other one is smaller that should be able to fit in the larger one which is the actual enclosure) and placed the smaller one inside the larger one with a fish tank heater in the larger container. I then filled water in the larger one about 2/3 way up to the smaller one and turned on the heater. Some fill the smaller one with just water and water plants or you can set it up with substrate. I prefer raising my hatchlings in an organic environment with a farm of isopods to help them learn to naturally hunt for food. I cut a hole out of the bigger Rubbermaid container lid just big enough for my light fixture to sit on where it wouldn’t touch the plastic. Then I cut out hardware mesh, drill zip tie holes on the lid and zip tie it. I cut out a hole in the middle of the mesh so my UV bulb will fit down in the container but the light fixture rests on the mesh. Temperature stays consistent along with humidity. ***note I do glue a piece of slate, tile, glass, etc. where I place the heater just in case of any malfunction. Obviously, allow to cure before putting water in the container.
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