Is this housing good?

[Hsenfow]

Hi everyone,

Just want to make sure that the housing I'm providing for my tortoise seems right (images attached), or whether there's anything I'm doing wrong or can improve.

I'm most likely going to get a hide for the basking end so he can hide there if needed, and possibly some artificial plants too.

I would also like to get some stickers to go along the bottom of the doors (long, green, grass-like ones) because I've read that being able to see out of the enclosure is sometimes a problem, and thought this might be a good solution.

Thanks.

 

[Ivan_Diaz]

I personally like to put a slab of rock under the heat lamp so the tort can raise its temperature a lil bit faster and what are you using to check the temperature of the enclosure?

 

[Hsenfow]

Thanks for the reply.
I have considered getting a rock for basking, so might buy one of those too.

To check the temperature I have a thermometer in the middle, which stays at 80F, and the heat lamp is connected to a thermostat set at 80F.

 

[Hsenfow]

Hi everyone,

I made a similar post to this elsewhere, but thought I'd elaborate slightly and repost here.

I'd like to verify that my setup and everything I'm doing is correct. If anyone can give me advice on anything to improve, then that'd be greatly appreciated.

So here's everything I have/am doing:

I have a 2 year old Spur-thighed tortoise (testudo graeca on his certificate) that I've had for a week. I live in the south of England.
He's in a vivarium (pictured), unsure exactly what substrate, but it's little pieces of wood and was recommended by the pet shop. Heat light one end connected to a thermostat set to 82F with probe in the middle of the viv. Heat light is powered 24/7. Thermometer in the middle for manual checking of the temp. UV bulb spanning length of vivarium on 12hr a day.
Straw at the cool end. Places to hide both hot and cool ends. Cuttlefish provided. Water always available. Stone underneath heat light for basking.
Been feeding him rocket this week, with Komodo "fruit and flower" pellets always available. I've now removed the pellets in an attempt to encourage eating the dandelions I've bought (dandelion mix from Pets At Home). Also bought some kale, so I'll be feeding a mix of kale + dandelions for a while. Mix nutrient powder with food a few times a week. Soaked him once so far.

Bought an IR heat gun thing to better monitor the temperature, and a water sprayer bottle so I can keep the viv a little humid (gonna aim for 40-50).
Been looking for a better water dish (terracotta saucer) but am yet to find one.

My tortoise seems to be spending most of his time sleeping, and doesn't eat much (none of the dandelions I gave him today, but ate about half the rocket I gave him each day). He went straight for some pellets though when I added those (seems to like the red/pink ones).

Does all of this sound right? Am I missing anything?

Thanks. Once again, any advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[Minority2]

The reason why your tortoise is not be eating much may be because your basking temp is too low. Your tortoise is not getting enough heat required for digesting.

82F is too low. Greek tortoises, similar to Russians, require a basking temperature of at least 95-100F. Humidity level should be around 50-70%, the more the better. Greek tortoises do not require night time heating as long as night time temperatures do not fall too low (65-60F) and that they're able to warm back up the next day.

Lights should not be left on 24/7. 12-14 hour daily cycles would be fine.

Replace the water dish with a heavy clay plant saucer and submerge it into the substrate. Those resin types can easily flip over and create problems.

Use a abrasive feeding dish and or slab of flat stone. This will allow your tortoise to file down their claws and beak on their own. It also helps to prevent tortoises from eating the substrate by mistake.

Straw is also not appealing nor useful in an enclosure. I would get rid of the straw entirely.

I have no idea what nutrient powder is. I would advise against overusing any supplements. Supplements aren't really necessary if owners are feeding their tortoises a balanced diet. Your current dietary doesn't sound very healthy. Kale for example, is rich in goitrogens, a substance that can cause kidney and liver issues in tortoises if fed in excess.

Use this site to learn more about harmful properties that can harm tortoise. This is also a good site to learn what is relatively safe to feed and how much should be fed. Greek tortoises should not be fed fruit:
https://www.thetortoisetable.org.uk/tortoise-diet/harmful-properties/

I would suggest at least soaking your 2 year old Greek tortoise daily for 20-30 minutes in warm water for the first month. It was purchased from a pet shop, the very same one that gave you some questionable advice. No idea how the your tortoise was cared for prior to being purchased. Not worth gambling over. After the first month, switch to 3+ times a week.

Read and follow the advice given in this care sheet for Greek tortoises. Ignore the sand section:
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/greek-tortoise-testudo-graeca-care-sheet-overview.87146/

Consider building/purchasing a larger enclosure (8 x 4 ft) for your 2 year tortoise in the near future. Your tortoise is most likely already too big for the enclosure he's currently housed in.

 

[Hsenfow]

Minority2, thanks for your comprehensive reply.

In regards to the basking temperature, the 82F was at the middle of the enclosure. I've now been able to properly check the temps, and they're 95F under the heat lamp, 80F in the middle, and 77F at the cool end.

Also I've remembered that the straw is actually hay (or at least the pet shop said it was). Is hay fine to keep? If not, then it feels a shame to remove it, since he spends most of his time under it.

I'll aim to do everything else you've suggested.
Only problem I've got is with the food. I've read a lot on what to feed and had seen multiple people suggest kale, so assumed it was fine. Weeds seem to be what most people suggest, so should the diet consist of just a variety of weeds? If so, could I safely buy these online?

Thanks.

 

[Yvonne G]

Well, you're not doing it the way I would, but who's to say which way is right or wrong? Here's what I would do differently:

I would use this for feeding:

12" square floor tile -

I would use this for water:

I would not have any stiff old hay in the enclosure. I would offer a choice of two hiding places and would position them up against a wall in the corners. I would not offer what we refer to as "fruity pebbles", but rather fresh weeds and greens. I would not use the stick on thermometer. In fact, I don't use a thermometer. I just check the temperature occasionally with a temp gun. I would moisten the substrate slightly.

 

[Minority2]

Minority2, thanks for your comprehensive reply.

In regards to the basking temperature, the 82F was at the middle of the enclosure. I've now been able to properly check the temps, and they're 95F under the heat lamp, 80F in the middle, and 77F at the cool end.

Also I've remembered that the straw is actually hay (or at least the pet shop said it was). Is hay fine to keep? If not, then it feels a shame to remove it, since he spends most of his time under it.

I'll aim to do everything else you've suggested.
Only problem I've got is with the food. I've read a lot on what to feed and had seen multiple people suggest kale, so assumed it was fine. Weeds seem to be what most people suggest, so should the diet consist of just a variety of weeds? If so, could I safely buy these online?

Thanks.

Greek tortoises are usually not interested in eating hay. Hay is also an undesirable substrate choice because hay will mold. I would remove it.

Greek diets, similar to Russians should consist of mainly broad-leaf weeds, flowers, and succulents. Store bought greens should be at a minimum. No fruit. Supplemental dry processed foodstuffs like Mazuri should only be fed once or twice a week. These types of foods may contain a little of everything but are simply not enough completely replace a proper balanced diet. I am also not a fan of colored pellets. The color red and yellow is very appealing to tortoises. Some tortoises can become addicted to these pellets if owners frequently feed it to them.

Seed mixes can be bought online from various tortoise/reptile supply retail websites. Some retailers will also sell dried crumbled broad-leaf weeds and flowers. Succulents such as prickly pears can be bought in bulk or grown from cuttings.

 

[Cathie G]

The reason why your tortoise is not be eating much may be because your basking temp is too low. Your tortoise is not getting enough heat required for digesting.

82F is too low. Greek tortoises, similar to Russians, require a basking temperature of at least 95-100F. Humidity level should be around 50-70%, the more the better. Greek tortoises do not require night time heating as long as night time temperatures do not fall too low (65-60F) and that they're able to warm back up the next day.

Lights should not be left on 24/7. 12-14 hour daily cycles would be fine.

Replace the water dish with a heavy clay plant saucer and submerge it into the substrate. Those resin types can easily flip over and create problems.

Use a abrasive feeding dish and or slab of flat stone. This will allow your tortoise to file down their claws and beak on their own. It also helps to prevent tortoises from eating the substrate by mistake.

Straw is also not appealing nor useful in an enclosure. I would get rid of the straw entirely.

I have no idea what nutrient powder is. I would advise against overusing any supplements. Supplements aren't really necessary if owners are feeding their tortoises a balanced diet. Your current dietary doesn't sound very healthy. Kale for example, is rich in goitrogens, a substance that can cause kidney and liver issues in tortoises if fed in excess.

Use this site to learn more about harmful properties that can harm tortoise. This is also a good site to learn what is relatively safe to feed and how much should be fed. Greek tortoises should not be fed fruit:
https://www.thetortoisetable.org.uk/tortoise-diet/harmful-properties/

I would suggest at least soaking your 2 year old Greek tortoise daily for 20-30 minutes in warm water for the first month. It was purchased from a pet shop, the very same one that gave you some questionable advice. No idea how the your tortoise was cared for prior to being purchased. Not worth gambling over. After the first month, switch to 3+ times a week.

Read and follow the advice given in this care sheet for Greek tortoises. Ignore the sand section:
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/greek-tortoise-testudo-graeca-care-sheet-overview.87146/

Consider building/purchasing a larger enclosure (8 x 4 ft) for your 2 year tortoise in the near future. Your tortoise is most likely already too big for the enclosure he's currently housed in.

This is why I love the tortoise forum so much. I always am able to glean some info on how to give a better life for my Russian tortoise.

 

[Cathie G]

Well, you're not doing it the way I would, but who's to say which way is right or wrong? Here's what I would do differently:

I would use this for feeding:

12" square floor tile -

I would use this for water:

I would not have any stiff old hay in the enclosure. I would offer a choice of two hiding places and would position them up against a wall in the corners. I would not offer what we refer to as "fruity pebbles", but rather fresh weeds and greens. I would not use the stick on thermometer. In fact, I don't use a thermometer. I just check the temperature occasionally with a temp gun. I would moisten the substrate slightly.

I use my hands to check my Saphire's temperature. If he's warm he might be too hot. If he feels cold he's too cold. Am I wrong?

 

[Hsenfow]

Thanks for the replies everyone.
I've got a big flat stone for feeding now, and I'll order a variety of seed mixes, weeds and flowers online and will give him a mix of those.
I'll aim to get a new water dish as soon as I can, and will also remove the hay tomorrow.

Is there anything else I could put into the enclosure to make it less sparse (after removing the hay) to give him more places to hide? I was thinking about fake plants, but I've read tortoises can eat them sometimes.

 

[Yvonne G]

I use my hands to check my Saphire's temperature. If he's warm he might be too hot. If he feels cold he's too cold. Am I wrong?

Nope, but just remember, your body temperature is 98.6F so anything less than that will feel a bit cool to you.

 

[Cathie G]

Thanks for the replies everyone.
I've got a big flat stone for feeding now, and I'll order a variety of seed mixes, weeds and flowers online and will give him a mix of those.
I'll aim to get a new water dish as soon as I can, and will also remove the hay tomorrow.

Is there anything else I could put into the enclosure to make it less sparse (after removing the hay) to give him more places to hide? I was thinking about fake plants, but I've read tortoises can eat them sometimes.

My tortoise likes his little hut. Unless I try to make it fancy. Depending on the size of your darling...here's what I do...2pieces of 1×8 pine lumber cut a bit longer then your critter. Hold it together with a roof from that same piece of lumber. Keep the back open because all you gotta do is flip the hut and there's your baby. Put a 1×2 in the front at the top to secure the sides. You don't need a floor because it can go anywhere. All these dimensions depend on the size of your tortoise. Be aware that your tortoise can use anything to become a lost child so...either keep the hut in the middle of a wall, or against a corner wall. Tortoises will flip their body sideways and climb up and out if their back is against a wall...don't trust the turdess

 

[Cathie G]

Nope, but just remember, your body temperature is 98.6F so anything less than that will feel a bit cool to you.

I'm thinking on this. I know my body temperature is 98.6 and it's too much to text. My question is: "What is the healthy temperature of a tortoise?" and I'm not saying habitat.

 

[Hsenfow]

My tortoise likes his little hut. Unless I try to make it fancy. Depending on the size of your darling...here's what I do...2pieces of 1×8 pine lumber cut a bit longer then your critter. Hold it together with a roof from that same piece of lumber. Keep the back open because all you gotta do is flip the hut and there's your baby. Put a 1×2 in the front at the top to secure the sides. You don't need a floor because it can go anywhere. All these dimensions depend on the size of your tortoise. Be aware that your tortoise can use anything to become a lost child so...either keep the hut in the middle of a wall, or against a corner wall. Tortoises will flip their body sideways and climb up and out if their back is against a wall...don't trust the turdess

Thanks for the suggestion, Cathie. I might take a look into making a wooden hut like you've suggested.

 

[Cathie G]

Thanks for the suggestion, Cathie. I might take a look into making a wooden hut like you've suggested.

It's cheap but always look at everyone else's suggestions on the forum. What works for me may not work for you. I've gotten so much good advice there. I don't use pet shop hide areas because my tortoise can climb them and wind up on his back. He's a turdess is all I can tell you.