Layout of the enclosure

23hallkorr

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I have a baby Sulcata tortoise around 2 inches long. I have a basking light with a uv bulb, a log hide, a water bowl, and a food bowl. The light pretty much covers half of the enclosure. I’m wondering where to put everything? Should the hide be under the basking light or on the cool side, same with the water and food. I also have a heating pad and am wondering if I should put it under the side with the basking light or put it on the side or something. Thanks in advance!
 

Thomas tortoise

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I have a baby Sulcata tortoise around 2 inches long. I have a basking light with a uv bulb, a log hide, a water bowl, and a food bowl. The light pretty much covers half of the enclosure. I’m wondering where to put everything? Should the hide be under the basking light or on the cool side, same with the water and food. I also have a heating pad and am wondering if I should put it under the side with the basking light or put it on the side or something. Thanks in advance!
You can not have the heat pad on the bottem because tortoises dig to get cooled down. If you have a heat pad then when your torotise digs it will burn itself.
 

Maro2Bear

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I have a baby Sulcata tortoise around 2 inches long. I have a basking light with a uv bulb, a log hide, a water bowl, and a food bowl. The light pretty much covers half of the enclosure. I’m wondering where to put everything? Should the hide be under the basking light or on the cool side, same with the water and food. I also have a heating pad and am wondering if I should put it under the side with the basking light or put it on the side or something. Thanks in advance!

The best thing to do is read @Tom ’s most excellent How to Care for a Young Sulcata care guide. It pretty much explains everything you need to know, the good, the bad, the ugly & things you should be doing & not doing. One of the “not doing” is the heat pad.

Pull up a chair & a note pad & start reading…. Size of enclosure, lid, yes lid, lights, humidity, daily (yes daily soaking), substrate, food, water & more.

Good luck

➡️➡️ https://www.tortoiseforum.org/threa...se-a-sulcata-leopard-or-star-tortoise.181497/
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
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I have a baby Sulcata tortoise around 2 inches long. I have a basking light with a uv bulb, a log hide, a water bowl, and a food bowl. The light pretty much covers half of the enclosure. I’m wondering where to put everything? Should the hide be under the basking light or on the cool side, same with the water and food. I also have a heating pad and am wondering if I should put it under the side with the basking light or put it on the side or something. Thanks in advance!
Hello and welcome. Most of the care info from breeders and pet stores is old wrong info. Its rampant. The FB groups are even worse.

Read that care sheet that Mark linked, and come back with all your questions.
 

23hallkorr

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Utah
Hello and welcome. Most of the care info from breeders and pet stores is old wrong info. Its rampant. The FB groups are even worse.

Read that care sheet that Mark linked, and come back with all your questions.
Thanks! I just want to say thank you for giving straight answers to what you need. A lot of the care sheets seem unsure of what is really best! I currently have a 12" x 30" tank (which is almost double what the pet store told me I would need), I'm looking into building a better enclosure for him though. If I were to build a better enclosure, is there a problem with building it out of wood?

The biggest problem I have been having so far is keeping the humidity down. I bought a tank with a mesh top from the pet store and have tried to cover it up which helped, but did not hold it for long enough. I have found myself having to spray it down at least every 30 minutes if I want it to stay high. I am not sure if this is solely because of the mesh top or if it has to do with and inaccurate gauge, simply placing the gauge in the wrong spot (it had been under the basking light before which I think was contributing), and the aspen snake bedding the store suggested. Though, I will work on all of those, especially the new enclosure as I'm sure that's the biggest cause of the issue I'm having.

I read the guide and while I do have everything needed, I don't think I have the best options. I have a rock looking water bowl that is large and deep enough for the tortoise to lay in, a little bit larger in fact. 1651454821558.png
Like this one, you mentioned to now use a typical ramped pet store bowl, is this what you meant, or does this work? Another thing I was wondering about is exactly where to put everything, currently with the size of the tank I have, one side is a hot basking side and one side is a cool side under no lights. I was wondering which side the hide should go under. Same with the water and food bowl, is it an issue if these are under the light?

With feeding, I know what to feed him, but I'm not sure WHEN to feed him. Should I put food into the enclosure and allow him to decide when to eat? He just lays under his hide majority of the time, a couple of times I have caught him eating. I'm just really not sure how I would go about regulating when he eats. Thanks again!
 

Tom

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Thanks! I just want to say thank you for giving straight answers to what you need. A lot of the care sheets seem unsure of what is really best! I currently have a 12" x 30" tank (which is almost double what the pet store told me I would need), I'm looking into building a better enclosure for him though. If I were to build a better enclosure, is there a problem with building it out of wood?

The biggest problem I have been having so far is keeping the humidity down. I bought a tank with a mesh top from the pet store and have tried to cover it up which helped, but did not hold it for long enough. I have found myself having to spray it down at least every 30 minutes if I want it to stay high. I am not sure if this is solely because of the mesh top or if it has to do with and inaccurate gauge, simply placing the gauge in the wrong spot (it had been under the basking light before which I think was contributing), and the aspen snake bedding the store suggested. Though, I will work on all of those, especially the new enclosure as I'm sure that's the biggest cause of the issue I'm having.

I read the guide and while I do have everything needed, I don't think I have the best options. I have a rock looking water bowl that is large and deep enough for the tortoise to lay in, a little bit larger in fact. View attachment 344053
Like this one, you mentioned to now use a typical ramped pet store bowl, is this what you meant, or does this work? Another thing I was wondering about is exactly where to put everything, currently with the size of the tank I have, one side is a hot basking side and one side is a cool side under no lights. I was wondering which side the hide should go under. Same with the water and food bowl, is it an issue if these are under the light?

With feeding, I know what to feed him, but I'm not sure WHEN to feed him. Should I put food into the enclosure and allow him to decide when to eat? He just lays under his hide majority of the time, a couple of times I have caught him eating. I'm just really not sure how I would go about regulating when he eats. Thanks again!
These are great questions and many people reading were probably wondering some of the same things and will benefit from you asking.

1. I used to build my own. There is no good way to seal it and protect the wood from the constant wetness. You need to use expanded PVC if you are going to build your own. I have found that the cost of materials, the time and gas to fetch the materials, and the time to build it costs more than just buying the right one. @Markw84 makes them and they are called smart enclosures. I have two of them, and have helped friends set up four others. They are amazing and have everything needed. Just add substrate, bowls and a tortoise. They cost less than if you bought everything separately and built it yourself. I used to use animal plastics enclosures. They are great and the quality and price is excellent, but it can take a year to get your enclosure once ordered.
2. 12x30 is too small. Even for a hatchling. Minimum 18x36, but 48x24 or larger is better. I start babies in 48x30 enclosures.
3. Open topped enclosures make it impossible to maintain the correct temperatures and humidity. That is like trying to heat your house in winter with no roof.
4. Aspen bedding is not suitable tortoise substrate for any species at any time. Get rid of that ASAP. You also can't wet it because it will mold. Chuck it and get fine grade orchid bark instead. Then you can spray it and keep it damp.
5, That water bowl is okay, but the terra cotta saucers are better. Cheaper too. Sink them into the substrate.
6. Part of the problem with a small tank is that you can't set things up right. There isn't room. Basking lamp should be to one side. Ambient heat (CHE on a thermostat should be over the middle to warm the whole tank day and night. UV tube should be near the basking lamp. If they sold you the typical compact florescent bulb, turn it off and return it. Those burn their eyes sometimes. The eye pain will make them either hide all the time or frantically run around trying to get away from the pain.
7. The whole tank should be equally warm, except the warmer area directly under the heat lamp, so it should not matter what side the humid hide goes on.
8. Water can be near the basking lamp to keep it warmer.
9. Food should be far from the lamp to keep it cooler. I use a terra cotta saucer for the food too.
10. Torts are grazers. You should be putting out a large pile of food every morning. If it is all eaten, give more the next day. If there is some left over at the end of the day, feed a little less the next day. No need to regulate what he eats. Feed your tortoise. Let him eat the right foods all day.He has a lot of growing to do.
 

23hallkorr

New Member
Joined
May 1, 2022
Messages
12
Location (City and/or State)
Utah
These are great questions and many people reading were probably wondering some of the same things and will benefit from you asking.

1. I used to build my own. There is no good way to seal it and protect the wood from the constant wetness. You need to use expanded PVC if you are going to build your own. I have found that the cost of materials, the time and gas to fetch the materials, and the time to build it costs more than just buying the right one. @Markw84 makes them and they are called smart enclosures. I have two of them, and have helped friends set up four others. They are amazing and have everything needed. Just add substrate, bowls and a tortoise. They cost less than if you bought everything separately and built it yourself. I used to use animal plastics enclosures. They are great and the quality and price is excellent, but it can take a year to get your enclosure once ordered.
2. 12x30 is too small. Even for a hatchling. Minimum 18x36, but 48x24 or larger is better. I start babies in 48x30 enclosures.
3. Open topped enclosures make it impossible to maintain the correct temperatures and humidity. That is like trying to heat your house in winter with no roof.
4. Aspen bedding is not suitable tortoise substrate for any species at any time. Get rid of that ASAP. You also can't wet it because it will mold. Chuck it and get fine grade orchid bark instead. Then you can spray it and keep it damp.
5, That water bowl is okay, but the terra cotta saucers are better. Cheaper too. Sink them into the substrate.
6. Part of the problem with a small tank is that you can't set things up right. There isn't room. Basking lamp should be to one side. Ambient heat (CHE on a thermostat should be over the middle to warm the whole tank day and night. UV tube should be near the basking lamp. If they sold you the typical compact florescent bulb, turn it off and return it. Those burn their eyes sometimes. The eye pain will make them either hide all the time or frantically run around trying to get away from the pain.
7. The whole tank should be equally warm, except the warmer area directly under the heat lamp, so it should not matter what side the humid hide goes on.
8. Water can be near the basking lamp to keep it warmer.
9. Food should be far from the lamp to keep it cooler. I use a terra cotta saucer for the food too.
10. Torts are grazers. You should be putting out a large pile of food every morning. If it is all eaten, give more the next day. If there is some left over at the end of the day, feed a little less the next day. No need to regulate what he eats. Feed your tortoise. Let him eat the right foods all day.He has a lot of growing to do.
Thank you! It turns out I actually don’t have a basking light, I have a infrared heat lamp and the compact UV bulb which I will get rid of. Would the infrared heat lamp be the Ambient Heat you mentioned? Also, would a large tote work in the meantime while I get a better enclosure situated, or any other suggestions?
 

Tom

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Thank you! It turns out I actually don’t have a basking light, I have a infrared heat lamp and the compact UV bulb which I will get rid of. Would the infrared heat lamp be the Ambient Heat you mentioned? Also, would a large tote work in the meantime while I get a better enclosure situated, or any other suggestions?
A large tote would be better than what you have, but still not suitable for a sulcata. You need a closed chamber. Trying to heat and humidify an open topped enclosure is like trying to heat your house in winter with no roof. It just doesn't work. You need to find a large closed chamber.

Infrared bulbs should not be used over tortoises. It messes with their heads and causes all sorts of problems. There are four elements to heating and lighting:
  1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
  2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night.
  3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
  4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.
 

23hallkorr

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Joined
May 1, 2022
Messages
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Location (City and/or State)
Utah
A large tote would be better than what you have, but still not suitable for a sulcata. You need a closed chamber. Trying to heat and humidify an open topped enclosure is like trying to heat your house in winter with no roof. It just doesn't work. You need to find a large closed chamber.

Infrared bulbs should not be used over tortoises. It messes with their heads and causes all sorts of problems. There are four elements to heating and lighting:
  1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
  2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night.
  3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
  4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.
Cool thank you!!
 

23hallkorr

New Member
Joined
May 1, 2022
Messages
12
Location (City and/or State)
Utah
A large tote would be better than what you have, but still not suitable for a sulcata. You need a closed chamber. Trying to heat and humidify an open topped enclosure is like trying to heat your house in winter with no roof. It just doesn't work. You need to find a large closed chamber.

Infrared bulbs should not be used over tortoises. It messes with their heads and causes all sorts of problems. There are four elements to heating and lighting:
  1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt incandescent floods from the hardware store. Some people will need bigger, or smaller wattage bulbs. Let your thermometer be your guide. I run them on a timer for about 12 hours and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them. I also like to use a flat rock of some sort directly under the bulb. You need to check the temp with a thermometer directly under the bulb and get it to around 95-100F (36-37C).
  2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. In most cases you'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT, as long as your house stays above 60F (15-16C) at night.
  3. Ambient light. I use LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most bulbs at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish. Strip or screw-in LED bulb types are both fine.
  4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. In colder climates, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height. 5.0 bulbs make almost no UV. I like the 12% HO bulbs from Arcadia. You need a meter to check this: https://www.solarmeter.com/model65.html A good UV bulb only needs to run for 2-3 hours mid day. You need the basking bulb and the ambient lighting to be on at least 12 hours a day.
Hey I was wondering if there is any reason that it would be a bad idea to leave him outside with little supervision to let him get the sunlight he needs. I found out he is ~2 months old, I live in an area where the temps sit at around 70 degrees, humidity is quite low, currently at 12%. As long as I can ensure that predators can’t get to him would this be a good thing?
 

Tom

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Messages
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Hey I was wondering if there is any reason that it would be a bad idea to leave him outside with little supervision to let him get the sunlight he needs. I found out he is ~2 months old, I live in an area where the temps sit at around 70 degrees, humidity is quite low, currently at 12%. As long as I can ensure that predators can’t get to him would this be a good thing?
My general rule of thumb is one hour of access to sunshine per inch of tortoise. You'll need a safe enclosure and there must be shade available at all times. Babies can over heat and die in minutes in full sun. Watch those temperatures carefully, and pay attention to the faster than expected movement of the sun as your shade shifts. On hotter days, I prefer to make it so that their whole enclosure ends up in shade as the sun moves, and every few minutes I come over and move it back into the sun. This way, if I get distracted in any way, the babies end up safe in full shade, and not cooking in full sun.

70 is borderline too cool for a baby sulcata. I'd wait until its closer to 75-80.

Definitely do a long warm soak after sunning in the super dry Utah air.
 

23hallkorr

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Joined
May 1, 2022
Messages
12
Location (City and/or State)
Utah
My general rule of thumb is one hour of access to sunshine per inch of tortoise. You'll need a safe enclosure and there must be shade available at all times. Babies can over heat and die in minutes in full sun. Watch those temperatures carefully, and pay attention to the faster than expected movement of the sun as your shade shifts. On hotter days, I prefer to make it so that their whole enclosure ends up in shade as the sun moves, and every few minutes I come over and move it back into the sun. This way, if I get distracted in any way, the babies end up safe in full shade, and not cooking in full sun.

70 is borderline too cool for a baby sulcata. I'd wait until its closer to 75-80.

Definitely do a long warm soak after sunning in the super dry Utah air.
It’s in the 80s today so I decided to let him sunbathe a bit. His enclosure is mostly in the shade and about 1 foot in the sun incase he wants that instead, is this okay? UV index is around 3-5 at the moment, will he be getting enough UV if he is sitting in the shade for around 2 hours? Does sitting in the shade make much of a difference?
 
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