Mold growing up the walls

cochransrc

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Has anyone treated mold growing up their wood enclosure walls? It came on quick, so I am going to use vinegar and a drop of an essential oil called Purify, that kills mold/mildew spores. Originally, I didn’t want to Kilz it, because of the fumes. But now, I don’t know if it would be too late, since Storm lives in the enclosure full time until summer.
Should I still Kilz it? Any other cleaning & prevention suggestions? My humidity levels are between 80-90%, but the lid is too tight, so I am cutting in more air holes... Ironic, because with all this humidity and my 9 month old Hermann has some pyramiding going on.
 

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ascott

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Has anyone treated mold growing up their wood enclosure walls? It came on quick, so I am going to use vinegar and a drop of an essential oil called Purify, that kills mold/mildew spores. Originally, I didn’t want to Kilz it, because of the fumes. But now, I don’t know if it would be too late, since Storm lives in the enclosure full time until summer.
Should I still Kilz it? Any other cleaning & prevention suggestions? My humidity levels are between 80-90%, but the lid is too tight, so I am cutting in more air holes... Ironic, because with all this humidity and my 9 month old Hermann has some pyramiding going on.

So I would resolve the mold issue first..not only for the tort but for the humans/mammals that live in the same space....especially if the tort is still a tad lumpy..... what is the diet? What is the offer of water for soaking and drinking..those also make a diffs in the pyramiding...not just environmental humidity levels.... :)
 

cochransrc

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So this mold issue just started over the last couple of days, while I was out of town. I’m trying to figure out the best/safest method to get rid of the mold.
She gets soaked every day for 10 to 15 minutes and fed a variety of dandelions, mustard greens, turnip greens, etc. every other day Mazuri and dried tortoise weed blend. She had a brother who doesn’t have any pyramiding issues at all, he gets fed the same things and is in very similar humidity/temperatures.
 

cochransrc

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Also, I have been told that her pyramiding is not concerning, I just worry about it, because I am comparing her to our other torte. and I think it’s interesting that she isn’t completely smooth, with the humidity and temp levels being so steady.
 

Tom

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Has anyone treated mold growing up their wood enclosure walls? It came on quick, so I am going to use vinegar and a drop of an essential oil called Purify, that kills mold/mildew spores. Originally, I didn’t want to Kilz it, because of the fumes. But now, I don’t know if it would be too late, since Storm lives in the enclosure full time until summer.
Should I still Kilz it? Any other cleaning & prevention suggestions? My humidity levels are between 80-90%, but the lid is too tight, so I am cutting in more air holes... Ironic, because with all this humidity and my 9 month old Hermann has some pyramiding going on.
If you are using a basking bulb that dries out the carapace too much, they can still pyramid in a humid closed chamber. What are you using?

Personally, I would keep humidity that high for a Testudo species. 50-70% with deep damp substrate and a humid hide should be enough, as long as you aren't using a hot bulb or a MVB over them.

The cure for the mold is to increase the ventilation a little bit, which should be fine since you don't need humidity that high.
 

Markw84

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Do you remit recommend a sealant that is safe for tortoises?
The only one I've ended up using that's safe and last a long time is:

A decent quality latex primer/sealer as a first coat.
Then 2 coats of Rustoleum Countertop Paint with a 3rd coat on the bottom and up the sides 6 inches or so where it will get wet a lot.
 

cochransrc

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If you are using a basking bulb that dries out the carapace too much, they can still pyramid in a humid closed chamber. What are you using?

Personally, I would keep humidity that high for a Testudo species. 50-70% with deep damp substrate and a humid hide should be enough, as long as you aren't using a hot bulb or a MVB over them.

The cure for the mold is to increase the ventilation a little bit, which should be fine since you don't need humidity that high.

I have 2-75 watt basking bulbs that run at night to keep the temperature at 80. During the day I have 1 MVB bulb, 1 linear UVB bulb and one 75 watt basking lamp that run during the day to keep the temperatures at 84-86 during the day. There is 2 basking spots that stay at 100, when the lamps are on.
 

cochransrc

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The only one I've ended up using that's safe and last a long time is:

A decent quality latex primer/sealer as a first coat.
Then 2 coats of Rustoleum Countertop Paint with a 3rd coat on the bottom and up the sides 6 inches or so where it will get wet a lot.

Okay, I will look into those. I do have a pond liner that lines the bottom and goes up about 6” above the substrate.
 

Ray--Opo

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The only one I've ended up using that's safe and last a long time is:

A decent quality latex primer/sealer as a first coat.
Then 2 coats of Rustoleum Countertop Paint with a 3rd coat on the bottom and up the sides 6 inches or so where it will get wet a lot.
After reading this thread yesterday I looked in Opo's enclosure. I had sectioned it off with a little walk thru for a hide 3 months ago. I have some mold also. Even though just another month at most till outside for good. I have some painting to do.
Thanks
 

Tom

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I have 2-75 watt basking bulbs that run at night to keep the temperature at 80. During the day I have 1 MVB bulb, 1 linear UVB bulb and one 75 watt basking lamp that run during the day to keep the temperatures at 84-86 during the day. There is 2 basking spots that stay at 100, when the lamps are on.
They need it dark at night.

That sounds like an awful lot of bulbs burning for one closed chamber.

Check this out:
There are four elements to heating and lighting:

  1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt floods from the hardware store. I run them on a timer and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them.
  2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. You'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT.
  3. Light. I use florescent tubes or LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most tubes at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish.
  4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. If you want it anyway, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height.
 

snivloc16

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The best way to clean the mold would be to vacuum ( with a hepa vac) as much off as you can then you can wipe it clean with some dawn dish soap and water. It will help capture the rest of the spores. Spray on a disinfectant to kill anything remaining. Then you can do all your stuff to treat your wood so it doesn’t happen again.
 

cochransrc

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Location (City and/or State)
Parker, CO
They need it dark at night.

That sounds like an awful lot of bulbs burning for one closed chamber.

Check this out:
There are four elements to heating and lighting:

  1. Basking bulb. I use 65 watt floods from the hardware store. I run them on a timer and adjust the height to get the correct basking temp under them.
  2. Ambient heat maintenance. I use ceramic heating elements or radiant heat panels set on thermostats to maintain ambient above 80 degrees day and night for tropical species. You'd only need day heat for a temperate species like Testudo or DT.
  3. Light. I use florescent tubes or LEDs for this purpose. Something in the 5000-6500K color range will look the best. Most tubes at the store are in the 2500K range and they look yellowish.
  4. UV. If you can get your tortoise outside for an hour 2 or 3 times a week, you won't need indoor UV. If you want it anyway, get one of the newer HO type fluorescent tubes. Which type will depend on mounting height.

Great information. I have been wanting to buy a radiant heat panel, but as soon as it heats up in Colorado, I am building an outdoor enclosure and plan on housing then outside for part of the year. So I figured I would invest in the radiant heater in September, before I bring them back in. What is your thoughts on the rope heaters?

Also, I wanted to clarify that at night I have 2 ceramic heat lamps running, so it is completely dark. I have one on each side of the enclosure, otherwise the corner areas drop to low to mid 70’s. I have wondered if I am creating to much light during the day. If I just leave the tube UVB bulb on, the sides get pretty dark, so instead of running the ceramic heat lamps, it switches over to the UVB and basking bulb to run during the daytime. The temperatures say about 85 and 100 under the basking bulbs...but I wonder if this contributing to the small amount of pyramiding that I think I see...

Thank you for your input, I really appreciate it!

IMG_1550117169.385833.jpgIMG_1550117350.258184.jpg
 

cochransrc

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Oct 1, 2018
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Location (City and/or State)
Parker, CO
The best way to clean the mold would be to vacuum ( with a hepa vac) as much off as you can then you can wipe it clean with some dawn dish soap and water. It will help capture the rest of the spores. Spray on a disinfectant to kill anything remaining. Then you can do all your stuff to treat your wood so it doesn’t happen again.

Thank you! That’s what I did, I used a combination of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide 3% as my disinfectant.
Thank you! My weekend will be spent sealing this huge enclosure. I thought my pond liner would prevent mold :(
 
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