Hello and welcome.
To help you, we need to know about your setup too. Sorry - lots of questions coming up.
1. How is this baby being kept? Photos of the enclosure and lighting speak a thousand words - though if you use the android app, you will have to upload them using the website version in your browser as the app is having problems right now.
2. What temperatures do you have warm side, cool side, directly under the basking lamp and overnight minimum?
3. What’s the humidity?
4. Is the enclosure open or closed?
5. What are you feeding? Any supplements... what, how much and how often?
6. Do you soak this baby? If so, how frequently and how often?
I recommend you read the TFO care guides if you haven't already and compare them with your setup.
They're written by species experts working hard to correct the outdated information widely available on the internet and from pet stores and, sadly, from some breeders and vets too.
How to raise a healthy Sulcata
Speaking frankly.... if you're using that dial thermometer hygrometer that's inside your tank your temperatures and hydration are not what you think...they are notoriously inaccurate. Especially in high humidity applications which is how you're going to be using it. A lot of folks here use temperature guns. But I find them to be a pain in the butt. You usually have to open your enclosure in order to get a temperature which kind of defeats the purpose of keeping the enclosure closed... I use a couple of these (i attached a picture below). I put one on my cold side and one on my hot side and every once in awhile I'll bring them together to see if there accurate to each other. Since the probes go inside the tank and the mechanism stays on the outside of the tank the mechanism cannot get humidity inside of it ( messing up the readings).
The dial ones will work fine sometimes in a dry location but once you add humidity to it, I noticed on mine anyway, that the numbers weren't correct to what my digital said.
What do you mean by "scrap the grass"? It's a big part of a sulcatas's diet, isn't it? Are you thinking of substrate and not diet?If you read those threads you will see that your enclosure needs some work.
Scrap the grass. That’s suitable for lizards and snakes, but not tortoises.
You need and earthy substrate about 3” deep over the entire floor area of the enclosure. Fine grade orchid bark and coco coir are popular on this forum; they’re cheaper from a garden centre or online from somewhere like Amazon than from a pet store - make sure it contains no additives like fertilisers or white bits like calcium or vermiculite.
This needs to be mixed with water so it is all evenly damp right to the bottom and into the corners. Spraying will help to slow the rate it dries, but does little to raise humidity.
You do need a “lid” or cover - you cannot maintain temperatures or humidity properly without. The lamps need to be under the cover or a hole be cut for them to shine through. The CHE needs a thermostat and that should be set to 80F.
Your water dish is a tipping hazard and hard for your tort to use. Replace with a terracotta plant saucer pushed into the substrate so its rim is level with the surface. A piece of flat rock or slate or even the rough side of a wall tile makes a good food plate that helps to keep your tort’s beak in shape through abrasion.
A little one this size should be kept in the closed chamber all the time. They’re not big enough yet to cope with the relative cold outside.
Soaking daily is what you should do. A tiny pinch of calcium powder sprinkled sparsely on food 3 times a week is the only supplement needed. You can overdo it, so don’t use too much. A cuttlebone might be welcomed by your tort to help with beak maintenance... some torts ignore them, some love them.
Your tort’s diet should be weedy and leafy greens. Tearing at them helps with beak maintenance. Mazuri is fine as a supplement - most hate the LS version. You only need one type.
Your tortoise can’t digest sugars properly- they cause digestive and kidney problems - so sweet foods like fruit, tomato, bell pepper and carrot should only be fed very sparingly and very occasionally if at all.
There’s a useful food list here
For those that have a young Sulcata