New baby Sullivan

Pearly

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I’m glad to hear that this poor baby is hanging on. Want to share with you something that I would probably try. I may have missed something and I apologize if I did, but I think that a baby tort, especially a sick one feels very vulnerable when exposed. Talking about the “hospital container”. IMHO it may be better to just keep him in his own regular tank just make sure the WHOLE PLACE is 85F and over 80% humid (more is better) no cool spots. I would put the sensor of my thermostat and digital thermometer inside of his dark hide and just let him rest there in that sauna. Bath twice a day, one bath in just warm water (betw temps 95-105F) and another with carrots or pedialyte for at least ½ hr. If him trying to get out is disstressing to you, try putting him in a big container. My babies used to freak out in bath until I tried an unused human size bath tub. They’ve been loving the bath time ever since. They do start trying to climb out after about 30-45 min, by then they have peed and poop and got plenty hydrated and warm (i keep my bath water warm, never below 95F) and they are ready for supper. Try to think like a little sick pray animal. You’d probably want to be invisible to other animals, and rest in comfortable warm dark room in a comfy bed. If you don’t have a temp gun, this is the time to get one. Amazon has so many different ones, you can get one for as little as 8-9$. This baby needs to be WARM (85F), agressively hydrated and feel safe. I would also try that syringe gentle feeding. Or better yet, pipette. Some pet stores carry Critical Care food by Oxbow, which is kinda like an Ensure in people. Can try that, I’d offer soaked till soft Mazuri pellets, you can just place couple (they are BIG, so for this size baby, 2 or 3 maybe all you need ) along with some greens. If you have chemical free hibiscus or dandelion in your garden, offer the flower. Can try to put some organic dandelion or maybe romain in a blender and blend it into a thin puree, can add a piece of watermelon or other juicy fruit to make it suitable for your pipette feeding. This is the one time when you are absolved for feeding your grazing tort a fruit. The goal is the GET HIM INTERESTED IN EATING. If you don’t have Mazuri get other pelleted food for grazing torts. May need to get more than one brand and keep offering those soaked (can even use unsweetened fruit juice for that) pellets few times a day until you find out which brand he is more interested. They have their little likes and dislikes just like we do. He will not NOT FEEL HUNGRY until he turns the corner with the infection, so you must rely on his endulgence tendencies to get him to eat. It’s like allowing a very sick and malnourished kid to eat chocolate because that’s the only think that looked appealing to him. You will worry about the “correct diet” once he gets over this hump. Basically 3 things: keep him at 85F and let him hide in his safe dark warm place, keep trying with the food and soak, soak and... soak! Wishing you all the luck and thinking healing thoughts for this little Cutie
 

Destben

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I’m glad to hear that this poor baby is hanging on. Want to share with you something that I would probably try. I may have missed something and I apologize if I did, but I think that a baby tort, especially a sick one feels very vulnerable when exposed. Talking about the “hospital container”. IMHO it may be better to just keep him in his own regular tank just make sure the WHOLE PLACE is 85F and over 80% humid (more is better) no cool spots. I would put the sensor of my thermostat and digital thermometer inside of his dark hide and just let him rest there in that sauna. Bath twice a day, one bath in just warm water (betw temps 95-105F) and another with carrots or pedialyte for at least ½ hr. If him trying to get out is disstressing to you, try putting him in a big container. My babies used to freak out in bath until I tried an unused human size bath tub. They’ve been loving the bath time ever since. They do start trying to climb out after about 30-45 min, by then they have peed and poop and got plenty hydrated and warm (i keep my bath water warm, never below 95F) and they are ready for supper. Try to think like a little sick pray animal. You’d probably want to be invisible to other animals, and rest in comfortable warm dark room in a comfy bed. If you don’t have a temp gun, this is the time to get one. Amazon has so many different ones, you can get one for as little as 8-9$. This baby needs to be WARM (85F), agressively hydrated and feel safe. I would also try that syringe gentle feeding. Or better yet, pipette. Some pet stores carry Critical Care food by Oxbow, which is kinda like an Ensure in people. Can try that, I’d offer soaked till soft Mazuri pellets, you can just place couple (they are BIG, so for this size baby, 2 or 3 maybe all you need ) along with some greens. If you have chemical free hibiscus or dandelion in your garden, offer the flower. Can try to put some organic dandelion or maybe romain in a blender and blend it into a thin puree, can add a piece of watermelon or other juicy fruit to make it suitable for your pipette feeding. This is the one time when you are absolved for feeding your grazing tort a fruit. The goal is the GET HIM INTERESTED IN EATING. If you don’t have Mazuri get other pelleted food for grazing torts. May need to get more than one brand and keep offering those soaked (can even use unsweetened fruit juice for that) pellets few times a day until you find out which brand he is more interested. They have their little likes and dislikes just like we do. He will not NOT FEEL HUNGRY until he turns the corner with the infection, so you must rely on his endulgence tendencies to get him to eat. It’s like allowing a very sick and malnourished kid to eat chocolate because that’s the only think that looked appealing to him. You will worry about the “correct diet” once he gets over this hump. Basically 3 things: keep him at 85F and let him hide in his safe dark warm place, keep trying with the food and soak, soak and... soak! Wishing you all the luck and thinking healing thoughts for this little Cutie
I will be revamping the original enclosure I got for him but haven't had time yet. the one i have i don't believe he would have the energy to get around so Im going to dump it and line with paper towels. Torterra's enclosure is completely regular temp wise and he is kept in at the right temperatures. I have been trying different things to get him to eat he just doesn't have enough energy at the moment. the very first thing i whipped out was the Mazuri soaked and smashed but it did no good. Hes getting more active and i bet once he gets some food in him he will do better and start eating on his own.
 

C. Nelson

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Do you know if the breeder used the coil type bulbs? For the breeder to even sell a baby with closed eyes and too cold, tells me he's not a good breeder, which tells me he probably uses the cheaper coil bulbs.
I understand your concerns. It scares me if your vet doesn't really know much about tortoises.
If the closed eyes is due to the bulb, having him out from it will change things quickly. The carrot baby food soaks will also help the eyes. Its main reason for the carrot soaks is for closed swollen eyes.
Do the carrot soaks and you got the temp up, and give it a couple days and see if it improves.

Love that advice! I wouldn't have thought of that. Do you mix the carrot baby food with the Pedialyte?
 

wellington

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Love that advice! I wouldn't have thought of that. Do you mix the carrot baby food with the Pedialyte?
Yes, and add to the warm water soak. Have about half baby food to water. If using the piedialyte I would make half baby food and the remaining half water to be at least a 1/4 piedialyte.
 

TechnoCheese

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Good luck with Sullivan. The medication is Reptile Criticare. It is a 2 to 1 mix that should have the consistency of pancake batter. I know this because I lost a baby Sulcata that I purchased from a Florida online store in April. My son and I had just lost a 2 year old Sulcata (bad year) so I ordered two from the comany. Everything was fine for a month or so and then Bronx developed a cyst. This led to me joining this forum but I could not figure out how to upload pics. Against my better judgement (my son insisted) I had my wife take Bronx to the vet. Based on appearance the cyst was lanced (the head Vet later told me it was scraped) and we assumed he would be fine. When we noticed that there was a significant size difference between Bronx and Goliath we again became concerned. We took him to one of our local reptile shops and noticed that there was a large yellow cyst in Bronx’s mouth that affected his breathing. We removed the cyst and Bronx was soaked, given baby food and pedialyte. We went to another vet and she said that my treatment is what she would have recommended. She gave me antibiotics, the Reptile Criticare and pain medicine. The vet believes that Bronx had a genetic defect or reptile herpes. My family and I brought both Sulcata’s with us for the drive from Ohio to Orlando and Bronx did not make it. I called the reptile store where I purchased Bronx since we were in Florida and they showed no interest. Visited another reptile store in Florida and the owner confirmed the vets suspicions and was surprised that the other store would not do anything. He informed me that Sulcata’s do not need to be in pairs but I bought another anyway. Goliath has been with Hercules for a week. So far so good. I was not trying to hijack Sullivan’s thread but Bronx had similar symptoms and wanted to share what the vets gave me, course of action, etc. The vets saw pics of my enclosure, food, Goliath, etc and feel like it was an anomaly. The 2nd pic is Goliath and Hercules. The 1st pic is the late Bronx.

I hat to hijack the thread, but the guy at the store was right. Your tortoises should not be kept in pairs.

Sulcatas are solitary and very territorial, and even SEEING another tortoise is very stressful. Living with one? The stress can be deadly. Your babies do not need the stress, and absolutely need to be separated. Your tortoises are not friends, and don’t have the ability to be. They are rivals.

Please give these a read :)
How To Raise A Healthy Sulcata Or Leopard, Version 2.0 https://tortoiseforum.org/index.php...ealthy-Sulcata-Or-Leopard,-Version-2.0.79895/

For Those Who Have a Young Sulcata... https://tortoiseforum.org/index.php?threads/For-Those-Who-Have-a-Young-Sulcata....76744/

Beginner Mistakes https://tortoiseforum.org/index.php?threads/Beginner-Mistakes.45180/

Again, sorry to hijack!
 

Destben

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I hat to hijack the thread, but the guy at the store was right. Your tortoises should not be kept in pairs.

Sulcatas are solitary and very territorial, and even SEEING another tortoise is very stressful. Living with one? The stress can be deadly. Your babies do not need the stress, and absolutely need to be separated.

Please give these a read :)
How To Raise A Healthy Sulcata Or Leopard, Version 2.0 https://tortoiseforum.org/index.php...ealthy-Sulcata-Or-Leopard,-Version-2.0.79895/

For Those Who Have a Young Sulcata... https://tortoiseforum.org/index.php?threads/For-Those-Who-Have-a-Young-Sulcata....76744/

Beginner Mistakes https://tortoiseforum.org/index.php?threads/Beginner-Mistakes.45180/

Again, sorry to hijack!

Mine are only together till I regulate his sick enclosure. I already got it fixed. So he’s moving out of Torterra’s tonight. Just throwing that out there to add to TechnoCheese’s comment.IMG_0530.jpgIMG_0529.jpg
 

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Mine are only together till I regulate his sick enclosure. I already got it fixed. So he’s moving out of Torterra’s tonight. Just throwing that out there to add to TechnoCheese’s comment.View attachment 244816View attachment 244817
How is he doing today?

Did you put the lights directly on top of the plastic lid? Did the plastic lid not melt? I am curious as I have set up a similar contraption however after reading several posts here suggest a closed containment for better humidity and temp control I re thinking my setup.

I was thinking of cutting a hold in the kid and adding wire mesh to space to allow the light to sit on top. My lid is clear but I am not sure the UV Ray's would get through.
 

Destben

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How is he doing today?

Did you put the lights directly on top of the plastic lid? Did the plastic lid not melt? I am curious as I have set up a similar contraption however after reading several posts here suggest a closed containment for better humidity and temp control I re thinking my setup.

He’s still going today he’s been moved into his new enclosure setup so we will see.
IMG_0531.jpg
They have garden fencing wire on top to provide enough space to allow UVB in but keeps them off the lid so no plastic burns. Here is an example from my Russians enclosure IMG_0192.jpg
 

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He’s still going today he’s been moved into his new enclosure setup so we will see.
View attachment 244862
They have garden fencing wire on top to provide enough space to allow UVB in but keeps them off the lid so no plastic burns. Here is an example from my Russians enclosure View attachment 244861
Thank you! This was very helpful. I will head out to the hardware store this afternoon after all.
 

Destben

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Thank you! This was very helpful. I will head out to the hardware store this afternoon after all.
Just make sure your lamps are at least 12 inches away from your tort or you will risk burns. also I have made it closed chamber to an extent by only cutting out holes big enough for my lights and a hole for my repti-fogger hose. it should have an area where fresh air can get in as well such as small vents. Closed chambers are great for hatch lings and are much easier to maintain heat and humidity in.
 
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Bee62

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Good luck with Sullivan. The medication is Reptile Criticare. It is a 2 to 1 mix that should have the consistency of pancake batter. I know this because I lost a baby Sulcata that I purchased from a Florida online store in April. My son and I had just lost a 2 year old Sulcata (bad year) so I ordered two from the comany. Everything was fine for a month or so and then Bronx developed a cyst. This led to me joining this forum but I could not figure out how to upload pics. Against my better judgement (my son insisted) I had my wife take Bronx to the vet. Based on appearance the cyst was lanced (the head Vet later told me it was scraped) and we assumed he would be fine. When we noticed that there was a significant size difference between Bronx and Goliath we again became concerned. We took him to one of our local reptile shops and noticed that there was a large yellow cyst in Bronx’s mouth that affected his breathing. We removed the cyst and Bronx was soaked, given baby food and pedialyte. We went to another vet and she said that my treatment is what she would have recommended. She gave me antibiotics, the Reptile Criticare and pain medicine. The vet believes that Bronx had a genetic defect or reptile herpes. My family and I brought both Sulcata’s with us for the drive from Ohio to Orlando and Bronx did not make it. I called the reptile store where I purchased Bronx since we were in Florida and they showed no interest. Visited another reptile store in Florida and the owner confirmed the vets suspicions and was surprised that the other store would not do anything. He informed me that Sulcata’s do not need to be in pairs but I bought another anyway. Goliath has been with Hercules for a week. So far so good. I was not trying to hijack Sullivan’s thread but Bronx had similar symptoms and wanted to share what the vets gave me, course of action, etc. The vets saw pics of my enclosure, food, Goliath, etc and feel like it was an anomaly. The 2nd pic is Goliath and Hercules. The 1st pic is the late Bronx.
I am sorry for your loss. So many people make bad experience with sick tortoise babies from reptile shows. I am sorry for you.
It is good that you shared the story of Bronx with us. We all learn from these sad stories.
 

Bee62

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I will be revamping the original enclosure I got for him but haven't had time yet. the one i have i don't believe he would have the energy to get around so Im going to dump it and line with paper towels. Torterra's enclosure is completely regular temp wise and he is kept in at the right temperatures. I have been trying different things to get him to eat he just doesn't have enough energy at the moment. the very first thing i whipped out was the Mazuri soaked and smashed but it did no good. Hes getting more active and i bet once he gets some food in him he will do better and start eating on his own.
I think the sick baby hasn`t yet the energie to move around. He will not miss a big enclosure now. All he needs now is warmth and high humidity the whole day/night long and food that is available directly in front of him.
 

Destben

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I think the sick baby hasn`t yet the energie to move around. He will not miss a big enclosure now. All he needs now is warmth and high humidity the whole day/night long and food that is available directly in front of him.
I'm still working on the food. The vet told me to give him a couple more days before force feeding so i'm trying to entice him in the meantime. and thank you for the prayers they are much appreciated!
 

Bee62

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I'm still working on the food. The vet told me to give him a couple more days before force feeding so i'm trying to entice him in the meantime. and thank you for the prayers they are much appreciated!
As long as the baby is on antibiotic shots he might not eat. He is so thin. I have fear he is starving.
 

Destben

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As long as the baby is on antibiotic shots he might not eat. He is so thin. I have fear he is starving.
me too. its really scaring me. Im going to weigh him again today to see if there is a change and if so i will be calling the vet again today.
 

Bee62

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me too. its really scaring me. Im going to weigh him again today to see if there is a change and if so i will be calling the vet again today.
Do you got a small syringe ? You could try some mazuri. It is not only the nutrition that are important. It is the water too. The baby should drink some water in little drops.
Sick animals often refuse any food/water when they are too sick. They die although they could overlive when they would eat and drink. I often see this with my cats. The only way to save them is to give them infusions but with such a small tortoise .....
 

Destben

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Do you got a small syringe ? You could try some mazuri. It is not only the nutrition that are important. It is the water too. The baby should drink some water in little drops.
Sick animals often refuse any food/water when they are too sick. They die although they could overlive when they would eat and drink. I often see this with my cats. The only way to save them is to give them infusions but with such a small tortoise .....
I yes i do. the Mazuri wasn't cooperating with the syringe very well even mushed up. Im going to go to the store and get some organic baby food (hopefully they have some good stuff). I have been putting droplets on the corner of his mouth and he seems to swallow but its no where near enough.
 

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Just make sure your lamps are at least 12 inches away from your tort or you will risk burns. also I have made it closed chamber to an extent by only cutting out holes big enough for my lights and a hole for my repti-fogger hose. it should have an area where fresh air can get in as well such as small vents. Closed chambers are great for hatch lings and are much easier to maintain heat and humidity in.
Hmm, Ioght be okay then. This is what I have going right now. I have raised turtles before but never a tortoise so I am still learning. I read all the pinned topics but I am still worried it's all wrong.

Maybe you try using a syringe for premature kittens if you haven't found a small enough one

20180712_073853.jpeg
 
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