New Horsefield Tort owner!!!

[ReptileLover369]

Hi everyone!!

Hope this message reaches you in good health I got a year old, female horsefield tortoise yesterday and I wanted some clarity on the heating situation. I was told to keep her UVB light on at all times (including night time when she's sleeping) however there are many posts contradicting this info?

I want to know when/how long her UVB should be kept on, when or if it should be switched off as well as her heat mat?

I'm in the UK and our Autumn/Winter months are very chilly!

Thanks in advance for your help, I welcome any advice or guidance! xxx

 

[grumpytort]

Hi Reptilelover369 [emoji1]
I’m also a new mum to a year old horsfield, had Tort for almost a month now.
The UVB lamp should be on for 10-12 hours a day (i have mine on at 8am-7pm) and off at night, they prefer darkness. Regarding the heat matt, i’m not sure - some say they are bad for their health but i also was sold one with my set up, however these tortoises don’t require high temps at night time. Have you got any photos of your set up? would love to see and helps people with more experience see if everything’s set up right [emoji217] xx

 

[ReptileLover369]

Hi there @grumpytort thanks for your reply!

That's great, thank you for that! It makes sense I guess, because last night I kept the light on and all I could hear was her constant scratching on the walls So that's her way of saying, "switch it off now, I need my Zzzzzzz" Lol. Yes, I've heard lots of different opinions about the heat mat, I'll have to look into it further. I'll attach a pic, please do let me know if it looks okay...or if I need anything else? It's just quite generic atm, may spruce it up with some more bits for her Btw, what about the temp of her house...mine's on about 50degree F atm?

Hows your little tort?

xxx

 

[grumpytort]

i’m no expert but looks good to me, however, how big is it? they do need a lot of space as they start to get bigger. My tort is currently in a 4 x 2 ft table but moving him to a viv so i can control the temperatures a bit more as the cold winter comes in! 50F, is that about 10C? if so it needs to be much warmer!! My warm side is about 30C, under the basking lamp gets up to 36C and the cool side is about 22C. then at night it gets down to 15-17C.

here’s a picture of my little one, meet Tort [emoji4]

 

[ReptileLover369]

She's awake now so I switched the UVB on for her and the temp has increased to 30degrees C.

It looks small but it's 90cmx42cm...not too bad surely?
What a cutie! x

 

[Minority2]

Hi everyone!!

Hope this message reaches you in good health I got a year old, female horsefield tortoise yesterday and I wanted some clarity on the heating situation. I was told to keep her UVB light on at all times (including night time when she's sleeping) however there are many posts contradicting this info?

I want to know when/how long her UVB should be kept on, when or if it should be switched off as well as her heat mat?

I'm in the UK and our Autumn/Winter months are very chilly!

Thanks in advance for your help, I welcome any advice or guidance! xxx

No lights should never be left on at night. Tortoises require day and night cycles. 12-14 hours a day is generally recommended. Generic reptile heat mats are often of poor quality and do not contain safety measures built in place. Kane/Stanfield heating mats and Reptile basics heating panels on the other hand are highly recommended for medium and large species of tortoises.

Hi there @grumpytort thanks for your reply!

That's great, thank you for that! It makes sense I guess, because last night I kept the light on and all I could hear was her constant scratching on the walls So that's her way of saying, "switch it off now, I need my Zzzzzzz" Lol. Yes, I've heard lots of different opinions about the heat mat, I'll have to look into it further. I'll attach a pic, please do let me know if it looks okay...or if I need anything else? It's just quite generic atm, may spruce it up with some more bits for her Btw, what about the temp of her house...mine's on about 50degree F atm?

Hows your little tort?

xxx

A young Horsefield/Russian indoor enclosure temperature level should not reach below 65-60F. Double check your temperature and humidity levels with a infrared temperature gun and digital food/weather branded thermometer hygrometer reader with probe to make sure. Cheap digital or analog pet branded readers and gauges are not reliable nor are they accurate enough for tortoise care.

She's awake now so I switched the UVB on for her and the temp has increased to 30degrees C.

It looks small but it's 90cmx42cm...not too bad surely?
What a cutie! x

Basking spot temperature should be around 95-100F which is 35-38C.

1. Is the single bulb you have in your enclosure a mercury vapor bulb? Can you please specific what model and type it is?

Picture(s) or links will also help. Mercury vapor bulbs are provide very intense heat and brightness. Some young tortoises do not like this. They will shy away and hide from it. Because of how drying these particular bulbs can get, some owners have claimed that these bulbs also contribute to pyramiding. I personally do not use these bulbs because they're not cost effective and they have short averaged rated life in comparison to linear florescent UV(B) reptile rated bulbs.

In my opinion, your current enclosure's size is small for a hatchling. Small enclosures do not spread heat out evenly nor do they possess enough space to encourage a growing tortoise's need to exercise. I generally recommend a 4 x 2 ft enclosure for a single hatchling and an 8 x 4 ft enclosure for a single adult Horsefield/Russian. The more the better.

2. What are you typically feeding your tortoise?

Please take the time to read these threads thoroughly, follow their guidelines, and change whatever needs changing:
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/russian-tortoise-care-sheet.80698/
https://tortoiseforum.org/threads/beginner-mistakes.45180/

 

[ReptileLover369]

Hi @Minority2, thanks for all the detail The brand is Arcadia and it's a D3 UV basking bulb. I only brought her home yesterday and she's been eating mainly Dandelion. I put some diced cherry tomato for her but she hasn't touched it yet.

Thanks for the links!

 

[ReptileLover369]

http://www.petsathome.com/shop/en/pets/arcadia-reptile-solar-basking-flood-lamp-100-watt

this one ^^^^

 

[Minority2]

Hi @Minority2, thanks for all the detail The brand is Arcadia and it's a D3 UV basking bulb. I only brought her home yesterday and she's been eating mainly Dandelion. I put some diced cherry tomato for her but she hasn't touched it yet.

Thanks for the links!

Fruits such as tomatoes should not be offered to Horsefield/Russians. Their digestive systems cannot handle sugar well. Liver issues and fatal health complications can occur depending on the frequency and amount fed. As a precaution I myself do not recommend feeding fruits as any part of a Russian's balanced diet.

Horsefield/Russians should eat primarily broad leaf weeds, flowers, and succulents. Mazuri fed 1-2x per week is also acceptable as part of a balanced diet. The care sheet linked above will have more information on dietary needs. Avoid a heavy store bought greens diet if possible.

Be sure to keep the humidity level of the enclosure at 60-80%. I personally prefer 70-80% for young tortoises, including Russians. Soak your tortoise daily for 20-30 minutes in warm water.

 

[ReptileLover369]

Is flower petals acceptable as part of their diet?
Also, when you say soak is is this other than their ordinary bath routine? How many ml would you recommend?

Thanks again

 

[Minority2]

Is flower petals acceptable as part of their diet?
Also, when you say soak is is this other than their ordinary bath routine? How many ml would you recommend?

Thanks again

It would largely depend on how it was grown. what was used, and for how long. Pesticides, insecticides, fungicides, hormones, type of fertilizers, and all other dangerous chemicals should be avoided. Hibiscus, mallow, rose of Sharon, and violets are examples of acceptable flowers. Use https://www.thetortoisetable.org.uk/ to find more.

No it's the same bath routine, young hatchling tortoises require daily baths/soakings. Keep the water level near the bottom part of their shell. Replace water when it becomes too cold. A healthy tortoise can poo multiple times in as many water changes.

 

[Yvonne G]

In my opinion, heat mats should not be used for the Mediterranean species of tortoises. You can meet their needs sufficiently by using the lights during the day and a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) at night. Another option is to use radiant heat panel (RHP) to provide heat.

If you soak the tortoise in a small container with tall sides, you can place it back inside the enclosure to help it stay warm while soaking.

 

[ReptileLover369]

Thanks @Yvonne G & @Minority2, how about temp at night?

 

[Minority2]

Thanks @Yvonne G & @Minority2, how about temp at night?

Horsefield/Russians do not require night time heating unless temperature levels fall below 65-60F. Living in the United Kingdom, it is very likely that you'll require an additional heating fixture.

I strongly suggest using a closed chamber style enclosure. Purchase a ceramic heat emitter and thermostat. Pair the ceramic heat emitter with the thermostat and set it to keep your enclosure above 68-70F.

 

[T Smart]

how about temp at night?

I wouldn't let the temperatures drop below 65F. Correct me if I'm wrong, but Russians benefit from having a drop in temperature at night.

 

[Minority2]

I wouldn't let the temperatures drop below 65F. Correct me if I'm wrong, but Russians benefit from having a drop in temperature at night.

There are so many sides to the cooling off concept and discussion. Some people believe temperatures as low as 50F is fine. Some insist on having a humid 80F hide in the enclosure at all times. Some also argue that burrowers such as Russians already have access to warm overnight temperatures that are similarly close to daytime temperatures when they burrow. Cooler temperature periods have also been mentioned to possibly increase fertility and mating rates for tortoises that do not brumate/hibernate. I don't remember finding a clear explanation to this subject. I do however, still suggest 65-60F or higher when housing tortoises in relatively high humidity because of how often respiratory infections can occur if not careful.

 

[ReptileLover369]

Thanks everyone! I'm going shopping at some point this week, is there anything else that you guys suggest I purchase for her enclosure? I'm using a large plastic box for her soaking atm, I've heard a cat litter tray does the job? Or shall I include anymore decorations for her?

Thank you!!

 

[Minority2]

Thanks everyone! I'm going shopping at some point this week, is there anything else that you guys suggest I purchase for her enclosure? I'm using a large plastic box for her soaking atm, I've heard a cat litter tray does the job? Or shall I include anymore decorations for her?

Thank you!!

Dish pans are a very good sized out of the enclosure soaking bowl for a single small species tortoise. I've used the cat litter tray more for small groups and outdoor soaks.

As for decorations I use mostly large rocks and simple wooden objects because they're easy to remove when my substrate requires mixing. I have a minimum of 2 hides, 2 water dishes, 1x feeding tile, and 1x feeding dish for each tortoise/enclosure. Make sure to keep multiple walking paths open and clutter free in an enclosure.

 

[Pastel Tortie]

Welcome to the forum! I'm in Florida, but I lived in the UK for about three years, a good while back.

@JoesMum is also in the UK. She's a great resource for you. Not only does she have extensive experience with keeping tortoises in the UK, but she can advise you on specific products and vendors available on your side of the pond.

 

[JoesMum]

Hello! I’m here having been summoned I live in Kent

As you live in the UK, I am certain this is a very young tort. Youngsters require temperatures not to drop below 26C day or night and high humidity

To achieve this you need a Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE) and a thermostat to control it; a CHE emits heat but no light. This can run 24/7 as the thermostat makes sure it only cuts in when needed.

It is only effective in a closed chamber

You may have already been given this link, but I recommend you read it and compare it with your setup

The TFO guides written by species experts working hard to correct the outdated information widely available on the internet and from pet stores and, sadly, from some breeders and vets too.

Baby Russian Tortoise Care
http://www.tortoiseforum.org/thread...or-other-herbivorous-tortoise-species.107734/