New owner. Critique my enclosure please!

Retort

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Raleigh NC
Just rescued a little Russian. Please rate and provide recommendations! I converted an old raised bed. There’s no fertilizer, just good soil. Left some grass and wild flowers planted. Little home on the left ramps down to underneath raised bed. Good mix of sun and shade throughout the day. Any concerns with ants or insects? He’s just cruising around (trying to find a break in the wall to escape lol)IMG_0169.jpeg
 
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Tom

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Over all, a good effort. Here are some points to ponder:
1. I see little white flecks in the soil near the left hand hide area. If that is perlite, you need to remove it right away. Perlite will be eaten and it can slowly kill them over time. Perlite is a common additive in store bought soil.
2. The walls are too low and a Russian will climb right out of that. I see you capped the corners and that is great, but I think you also need a "lip" around the whole thing too. Or taller walls.
3. If it stays dappled shade like that all day, you are probably fine. If part of the day sees full sun, those hides are likely to overheat. You need some deep shade in that case. Check the hide temperatures with a digital thermometer that records the highs and lows. Only your thermometer can tell you if those hides are sufficient or not. We can only guess.
4. Dehydration and dogs are the top two killers of Russians. I would add another, larger terra cotta saucer, so that there are two of them, and I would soak frequently too.
5. I'm not going to say this area is too small. It is adequate, but more space would be mo betta', as the parlance goes...
6. I would like to see a temperature controlled insulated shelter attached to this pen. That will allow you to ease into and out of brumation, even when the weather is not cooperating in fall or spring.

Now for your requested rating... Minor improvements can be made, but as I said previously, this is a good effort. I give you an 8 out of 10.

In this first thread, I show and describe how to do the type of shelter I am talking about, and there is much more helpful info here for you too. The second thread will explain a lot, and give you even more helpful info. Questions are welcome, and so are YOU!


 

Retort

New Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2024
Messages
7
Location (City and/or State)
Raleigh NC
Over all, a good effort. Here are some points to ponder:
1. I see little white flecks in the soil near the left hand hide area. If that is perlite, you need to remove it right away. Perlite will be eaten and it can slowly kill them over time. Perlite is a common additive in store bought soil.
2. The walls are too low and a Russian will climb right out of that. I see you capped the corners and that is great, but I think you also need a "lip" around the whole thing too. Or taller walls.
3. If it stays dappled shade like that all day, you are probably fine. If part of the day sees full sun, those hides are likely to overheat. You need some deep shade in that case. Check the hide temperatures with a digital thermometer that records the highs and lows. Only your thermometer can tell you if those hides are sufficient or not. We can only guess.
4. Dehydration and dogs are the top two killers of Russians. I would add another, larger terra cotta saucer, so that there are two of them, and I would soak frequently too.
5. I'm not going to say this area is too small. It is adequate, but more space would be mo betta', as the parlance goes...
6. I would like to see a temperature controlled insulated shelter attached to this pen. That will allow you to ease into and out of brumation, even when the weather is not cooperating in fall or spring.

Now for your requested rating... Minor improvements can be made, but as I said previously, this is a good effort. I give you an 8 out of 10.

In this first thread, I show and describe how to do the type of shelter I am talking about, and there is much more helpful info here for you too. The second thread will explain a lot, and give you even more helpful info. Questions are welcome, and so are YOU!


Ty ty! I will filter out the white specs. Noted on the overheating. With how deep the sun terrain hide is, I though it may be ok, but if spends time in sun, which it does, I didn’t think about the temp rising, so thank you. I also put plastic oc the hide and covered it up to 1) insulate better and 2) prevent water during rain. I will def add another water source, and plan on misting the hides. Should I make a pseudo door over the main hide?
 

Tom

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Ty ty! I will filter out the white specs. Noted on the overheating. With how deep the sun terrain hide is, I though it may be ok, but if spends time in sun, which it does, I didn’t think about the temp rising, so thank you. I also put plastic oc the hide and covered it up to 1) insulate better and 2) prevent water during rain. I will def add another water source, and plan on misting the hides. Should I make a pseudo door over the main hide?
I don't think removing thousands of perlite pieces will work. I think you have to shovel al of the tout and replace it with something that doesn't have perlite. Seriously... They all eat it, and it breaks down and lines their GI tract and doesn't pass. I learned this through very expensive necropsies of babies that were incubated on perlite. Its bad stuff, and the color and texture attracts them and makes them want to eat it for some reason.

Door on the hide...? Hmmm... Not sure how that would work or what it would be. I use vinyl flaps on my insulated boxes for when the doors are open, but I don't know how you would incorporate that into a natural type hide like what you've got there... My inclination is to check the hide temperatures with a digital thermometer and go from there. No need to add a door if temps are where you want them and the tort is happy and healthy.
 

Littleredfootbigredheart

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Going off what Tom says about the hide door, obviously check temps first, but if you aren’t happy with them, he has a great thread on building insulated outdoor boxes, the idea is they stay cooler in the hot weather, and you can add heat on a thermostat for the cooler weather/nighttime🙂they usually have the vinyl flaps which work well, might take tort a little getting used to, if it’s for night, I’d add a door you can lock. Doesn’t necessarily need to be as big as the photo examples but they’re just to give you an idea if needed down the line😊
 

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The_Four_Toed_Edward

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Your tortoise looks like an adult, so if you send us a pic of his/her tail from underneath we will probably be able to sex him/her! All good advice above by the way!
 

Retort

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Joined
Aug 11, 2024
Messages
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Location (City and/or State)
Raleigh NC
I don't think removing thousands of perlite pieces will work. I think you have to shovel al of the tout and replace it with something that doesn't have perlite. Seriously... They all eat it, and it breaks down and lines their GI tract and doesn't pass. I learned this through very expensive necropsies of babies that were incubated on perlite. Its bad stuff, and the color and texture attracts them and makes them want to eat it for some reason.

Door on the hide...? Hmmm... Not sure how that would work or what it would be. I use vinyl flaps on my insulated boxes for when the doors are open, but I don't know how you would incorporate that into a natural type hide like what you've got there... My inclination is to check the hide temperatures with a digital thermometer and go from there. No need to add a door if temps are where you want them and the tort is happy and healthy.
I was thinking it’s just in some areas. Is the recommendation removing all the soil?
 

Retort

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Raleigh NC
I’ve read all the beginning stickies, very helpful but while I have everyone here (ha) Ive had this lil fella for 3 days now. I cannot confirm he has sipped his water (it’s dirty, so he’s def tracked through it) I did a 30 min soak yesterday. To make sure he is hydrated. How long can I expect before I see him drinking and eating (I don’t think he’s touched his zoomed grassland or matzuri/flower topper. I set it out every day, then remove and refresh. Thanks!
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
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Messages
65,161
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I was thinking it’s just in some areas. Is the recommendation removing all the soil?
All the perlite infused soil needs to be removed, yes. ASAP. Soil that doesn't have perlite may or may not be safe, but I don't recommend any store bought soil in a tortoise enclosure. There are sometimes dangerous things in those bags. The people making soil do not intend for small animals to be living on it and in it.

I’ve read all the beginning stickies, very helpful but while I have everyone here (ha) Ive had this lil fella for 3 days now. I cannot confirm he has sipped his water (it’s dirty, so he’s def tracked through it) I did a 30 min soak yesterday. To make sure he is hydrated. How long can I expect before I see him drinking and eating (I don’t think he’s touched his zoomed grassland or matzuri/flower topper. I set it out every day, then remove and refresh. Thanks!
You may never see him drink. That is why you keep up the soaks. Russians are prone to dehydrating themselves and this can form bladder stones which often kill them.

It takes weeks or months to slowly introduce any tortoise to any new food. The ZooMed pellets are a great food item, but those pellets are notoriously difficult to get the eating. I don't know if I've ever gotten a tortoise to eat them plain. I always mix them with greens.

The flower topper stuff is meant to be mixed with greens too. Its not a stand alone food item.

It would be best if you could find out what he was eating before you got him and get some of that. You can then start adding these new foods to the old favorites. This is fine to do, even if the old favorite was lettuce.
 

Retort

New Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2024
Messages
7
Location (City and/or State)
Raleigh NC
All the perlite infused soil needs to be removed, yes. ASAP. Soil that doesn't have perlite may or may not be safe, but I don't recommend any store bought soil in a tortoise enclosure. There are sometimes dangerous things in those bags. The people making soil do not intend for small animals to be living on it and in it.


You may never see him drink. That is why you keep up the soaks. Russians are prone to dehydrating themselves and this can form bladder stones which often kill them.

It takes weeks or months to slowly introduce any tortoise to any new food. The ZooMed pellets are a great food item, but those pellets are notoriously difficult to get the eating. I don't know if I've ever gotten a tortoise to eat them plain. I always mix them with greens.

The flower topper stuff is meant to be mixed with greens too. Its not a stand alone food item.

It would be best if you could find out what he was eating before you got him and get some of that. You can then start adding these new foods to the old favorites. This is fine to do, even if the old favorite was lettuce.
Thank you very much! Looks like I have a heft weekend project. The enclosure is pretty large, 3’x12’. is there a soil recommendation I can get in bulk of bags? Thanks again
 

Tom

The Dog Trainer
10 Year Member!
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Joined
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Messages
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Thank you very much! Looks like I have a heft weekend project. The enclosure is pretty large, 3’x12’. is there a soil recommendation I can get in bulk of bags? Thanks again
Soil shouldn't be used. There is no way to know what is in those bags.

I just use regular dirt from my yard or any nearby safe source. Actually, thinking about it, I don't use anything. I just make the enclosure in whatever area is convenient and whatever native dirt that is there is what I use.
 

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