New owner, with some questions

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FWishbringer

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Ok, I'm two weeks in, which makes Deasil three weeks hatched.

There are three, primary issues, and all available research for them conflict somehow. Conflicts vary, but various sources all have information that their manner of presentation suggests their way is good, others are bad, leading to my few weeks of settling for a kind of mix of the various guides. Since I'm a concerned pet parent, I might as well ask and see if I'm doing it right.

I'll provide current situation, what I've done, what I intend to do, and then my questions for each issue.

Issue One: Substrate/Habitat
Current information and background:
So far, the substrate in the temporary aquarium is approaching a third replacement.

At first, I tried straight Eco Earth (ground coconut shell). It was too dry.
A bit of water went too far with it (says it can make a good 'earth', but went from dry to mush, with no stop in between).

I experiemented with a few things, and ended up with eco earth, a nip of water, and slightly-cut-up coastal hay as substrate.

I'm considering replacing the lot of it with a 50/50 mix of sand and top soil, which I heard mentioned elsewhere by a few people.

There is a LOT of conflicting information regarding substrate, and everyone says don't use 'this one specific item' and swears by 'this one, which the last guy swore was bad'.

Right now, what I have seems to be working for the happiness factor, the bit of hay I left in as substrate has become the furrow, and the tort made their own little hidy hole in it. If they try to climb on it, it squishes down, so I don't have to worry about it flipping them over. I never see them trying to eat the hay furrow either.

I've seen nothing against using the eco earth (ground coconut shell) in regards to oils, and wet it doesn't leave any sheen on water, so -presently- its staying the right humidity, I'm keeping a stable hot and cool zone, and the tort has a 'happy' furrow (6th attempt, tried various cartons and containers, but it really seems to like sleeping in the hay).

Questions:
Since this habitat is going to be the basis for its first year or two's habitat (it will be getting a larger version when I get a 'handmedown' from a friend), is there anything wrong with it so far? Was one of the first steps a better setup? Should I take the next step to a sand/topsoil mix? Is the present selection of furrow material ok? Should I try to find a sturdy alternative (bear in mind, I've tried several, and all resulted in flipping)?

Issue Two: Food

Current information and background:
The smallest amount of hay I could buy at the feed store was a bale, for $7. It seems the best thing, according to what I've read, that I could feed my youngin' would be the hay by itself, with a few treats for variety. Its coastal hay, aka bermuda grass.

Sadly, the tort barely touches the hay by itself. I've tried fresh bermuda grass mixed in, which it eats and is the primary diet for the meantime. Fresh is in short supply (until the back lawn greens up again, Tampa's unusual cold spell put our lawn in hibernation).

The only way it'll touch supplements (I'm using calcium+d3 without phosphorus) is on ground fresh bermuda grass. None of the local feed stores have much of a selection, and it looks like I'll be ordering seed for a mix of stuff.

So far, its treats have consisted of fresh rose leaf, a bit of hibiscus leaf, romaine, a bit of wild lettuce, collard greens, and bit of despined thistle leaf. I'd have tried offering a bit more of a selection, but edible weeds are in short supply, for the same reason as fresh bermuda grass.

Questions:
Is there any trick to getting it to eat the dry hay? Is there any problem with the list of things I've offered? Is it fine to keep feeding a fresh and dry mix? What if it prefers only green bermuda grass, is that fine for a while? If it only eats green, should I lower the habitat humidity? Will there be any issues with the wild items offered, since they are the main weeds in the yard?

Issue Three: Temperature
Current information and background:
Ok, this has about as many answers as issues one and two, with the same dissent. For the remainder of this section, all degrees are in Farenheit.

Right now, I've got the cool side sitting at room temp, which has been varying between 65 and 72. The room's heat is put on in the room when it gets below 68, but the surface temp of the habitat on the farthest side from the hot zone was reading 65. The surface temp in the furrow was reading about 68. The room's air comes on at 72 and surface temp in furrow and on the surface at the far end were staying right with it.

The hot zone I've got at a surface temp of 80ish during lights out, 85ish during lights on. The hot zone has 'subzones' (the overall hot zone is provided by an under-tank warmer), by varying the depth of substrate. With lights on, the surface temp -directly- under the light reaches about 90, though a few readings did hit 93. Outside of the direct light, it keeps the surrounding area at 85ish for most of it. I do have a layer of pad below the substrate, since Deasil has already shown they are a digger, to prevent hitting the glass directly above the heater. Measuring the pad in the tank, without substrate, comes in at 90, but doesn't get touched often (and then only briefly).

The light is a true UVB bulb, which does provide some heat. Its obviously not a strong heat source, since its only bringing up the temp by 5-10 degrees (yet was still the single most expensive item in the entire setup, I believe its made by T-Rex). Three of my closest friends are herp owners, and have been quite helpful. The mix of them consists of an iguana, several ball pythons, and an ex-turtle owner who bought a hatchling sulcata from the same batch as mine. According to them, based on what I have found, I should be fine.

I also have a water dish always available, which I am keeping on the edge of the hot zone (water stays right about 75), and rather than paying heaps of money for a big bulky item that could pose a flipping hazard, since it provides the right depth, I'm using the lid from a Betty Crocker icing container. I am fully aware its not a permanent solution, but since young grow quickly, I don't want to be in the same boat as the friend who bought a few sizes of cages and accessories for his iguana. I want to keep the price down, for stuff that will be quickly outgrown. When topped off, it provides enough depth the little one can be touching water across its whole base when it climbs in (it drinks, but seems it always wants to be knee deep before it does).

Questions:
Is the temp range available acceptable? Should I make the hot zone and basking temps higher? Do I need a colder hot zone during lights out? Is it better to put food and/or water in the hot and/or cold zone? Is providing water at all times ok? Do I need to lessen the available water?

Extra stuff:
I'd show a picture of my setup, but I feel bad since what I have right now is too small. I've taken care (part of the reason I know temps of everything, with excessive redundancy) to check many angles, placings, depths, and et cetera until I found the right placings and settings for a true hot and cool zone. The present setup is a wide base 5.5 gal aquarium. In a week or two, I'll be getting a wide base 29 gal aquarium, which will provide a LOT of romping area indoors for quite some time. Once THAT is set up, I'll do a picture.

I live in Florida, and when weather permits, Deasil will be playing outside. I constructed a playpen for yesterday using some old boards that made a 'frame' of 3'x5' using 2x4's. I sat next to it, reading for a few hours. I'm thinking adding a few posts to the design, and some chicken wire to surround and cover it, and it should suffice as a playpen for quite some time (chicken wire would mean I don't have to be hovering around it quite so much, we have vultures around here, and Deasil would probably become a meal.. yet its also quite open to allow direct sunlight). Of course, it is entirely a temporary thing, until the tort is big enough I don't have to worry about it being considered quick prey by local predators.

Future plans... yes, I know how big sulcatas can get. Based on available information, which seems to be in a consensus on this, my yard should suffice for either two 5 or 6 year olds, or a single big 7 or 8 year old. The yard will change before that becomes an issue. (Insert grumbling about new laws and loan policies requiring 4x the previously expected down payments on homes.)

Suggestions? Thoughts? Anything I need to change?
 

Yvonne G

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There is no one "correct" way to take care of any kind of turtle or tortoise. Everyone uses what works for them and their situation. We can only give you the benefit of our experience and you choose what will work for you and your tortoise. Here's what works for me.

I like to use either the fine grade of orchid bark or cypress mulch. The reason I have landed on either of those two is because it is clean, it doesn't mold or start to smell sour after its been wet for a while, and its easy for the babies to walk on. There is a fairly new school of thought that during the rapid growing years a young tortoise requires more humidity in his environment to help his carapace to grow smoothly (as opposed to pyramiding). You can moisten the orchid bark or the cypress mulch. The lights quickly dry out the top layer, but it stays moist underneath.

Babies won't eat hay. When you read that you should feed your tortoise hay, it is for the larger tortoises. And really, hay is for when there is no grass and weeds available. Hay would be something to fall back on when there is nothing else to feed. You're not going to get your baby to eat hay until its about 3 years old. In the meantime, take a plastic bag and some scissors outside and clip him some fresh grasses and weeds to eat. Because I usually have quite a few babies to feed, I buy the Spring Mix (a packaged greens mixture in the produce section). To this I will add some weeds from outside like dandelion, mallow, fillaree, etc. The babies eat it up!

I have never used the UV lighting, but this year I finally caved in and bought a T-Rex 100 watt spot/UV. Directly under the light it is over 100 degrees (the light is 12" from the substrate). On the light's side of the habitat the temperature hangs around 85 to 100 degrees. On the other side of the habitat is where I have their hiding place. Under the plastic tub that they're in I have a seed tray heat strip. With about 3" of substrate, the heat inside the hiding place isn't more than 80 degrees, but if they dig down, its warmer. The heat strip is supposed to only heat up to about 10 or 15 degrees warmer than the ambient temp, and it holds true.

This is what works for me. Its not the right way, and its not the wrong way...but its what works for me and my babies. You must read what others say about keeping their babies, choose what works for you and your situation, and go from there.

Good luck with your baby. I'd love to see some pictures.
 

chadk

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I strongly recommend you read this:
http://www.sulcata-station.org/pdf/hatchfail.pdf

Sounds like you are on the right track.

Temps are a little low.

You can add organic soil to the eco earth stuff and it will work better. Whatever you use, don't let it dry out all the way. The tort needs to be able to dig down to find moist substrate. A dry top layer is OK, as long as it is moist below (deeper the substrate, the better).

I'd also be sure you have a least 2 hides. A hide should be fairly dark, small, and snug - a place to feel safe. Inside there should be diggable substrate for some burrowing (like tucking in with a blanket for a tort).

My torts eat mostly fresh weeds and grass directly from my yard. Spring mix once in a while. Mazuri tort food. And cuttlebone.

Be sure you have a shallow water dish that the tort can easily climb in and out of.

Oh, and Yvone, all light is UV. UV just means Ultra Violet radiation. I think you meant to say you broke down and bought a MVB light - one that combines UV-B and UV-A in one bulb?
 

Yvonne G

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I used to only use the plain old 60 watt incandescent bulbs, but this year I finally broke down and bought a T-Rex 100 watt UV/Spot.
 

chadk

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emysemys said:
I used to only use the plain old 60 watt incandescent bulbs, but this year I finally broke down and bought a T-Rex 100 watt UV/Spot.

Oh, I see :) you went from regular household incandescent UV light to an incandescent UV healt lamp?

Or is it this one: (an expenisve MVB bulb)
http://www.carolinapetsupply.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=44&products_id=165

Or this one: (much less expensive incandescent spot bulb - no UVB)
http://www.creativepet.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4_7&products_id=6


There are also halogen basking spot \ heat lamps. But not sure if T-Rex makes any.
 

Yvonne G

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It says on the box: T-Rex Active UV Heat - UVB producing heat lamp. All the UVB benefits of more than 20+ UVB fluorescent lamps + heat. Least UVB decay of any reptile lamp. etc. etc.

Its the one pictured on your CPS link, but I only paid $25 for it at LLLReptile.
 

Turtledude

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Me and Fwish both got our hatchling sulcatas the same day at the same reptile show. Here is a pic of Fwish's 'Deasil' day 1.
deasil.jpg
 
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