New redfoot owner -- looking for feedback on enclosure setup please :)

nortsmom

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Hello! First of all, I've found all the resources on this forum incredibly helpful. I've already made the switch to getting our tortoise habitat fully enclosed after lots of reading on the forum specific to redfoots by installing a mini greenhouse cover over our 4x2x2 galvanized planter bed.

I'm hoping for some general advice on our enclosure -- specifically UV help and heating/humidity advice.

I got Nort about a month and a half ago (not sure on his age but vet guesses over a year and half at least). He's now finally starting to come out of his shell and hang out a little more and eat more excitedly than when we first got him. I think getting the humidity higher and lowering his overall temps has been a huge help. He likes to hang out but under some shade, so we're already planning to get more shady spots for him. We keep humidity around 80-85 during the day and it doesn't drop below 70 ever. We keep temps around 80-90 with some areas occasionally getting to like 92. At night, I turn off all lights and we still don't drop below 70 probably not even lower than 73/74.

Our substrate is peat moss and cypress mulch combined. He was not a fan of a higher cypress ratio and prefers the peat moss to burrow a bit while he sleeps. We use a fogger at a very low setting and can often turn it off entirely due to our closed chamber setup. My main concern is temperatures. We have two large UVB/UVA mercury bulbs. I've since read on these forums that these are not at all recommended which is a bummer as our vet recommended them (it kinda makes sense though as we stopped using these and focused on our regular heat lamp, he is more active in the enclosure and will actually bask a bit under that smaller light). We started with just a T5 uv light and the smaller basking bulb but the tube doesn't provide a ton of heat and I'm worried in our enclosure size it's too high up to actually get UV down to our tortoise (he's in a 4x2x2 and not sure exactly how high up the tube is mounted).

Pictures for reference. Thank you in advance everyone for your guidance. :)
 

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ZEROPILOT

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The moss is indeed handy. But it's just too dangerous. Tortoises will inevitably eat some and it becomes an impaction because it can't be digested. Provide hides for him to "hide" and sleep inside. They do not like to stay exposed when young. They'll either dig down at night or hide. The correct substrate is a little more difficult to dig down into. That substrate should be bagged pure Orchid bark.
The MVB lights are both too bright and too desicating. They're also not reliable or consistent from bulb to bulb.
Your UVB needs to be from a T5 HO strip florescent UVB tube. Or the newer LED UVB strip lights. And for warmth you should use CHEs. They can be used day and night because they provide no light.
The humidifier should not be needed. Just add a bit of water to the outside edges of the enclosure and it will release humidity as it evaporates.
Be careful with temperatures over 92. That's uncomfortably warm for a Redfoot in my opinion. Though not dangerous.
Adjustments and changes will take a little tweaking. But once you've got your parameters set up it gets pretty easy.
 
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nortsmom

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The moss is indeed handy. But it's just too dangerous. Tortoises will inevitably eat some and it becomes an impaction because it can't be digested. Provide hides for him to "hide" and sleep inside. They do not like to stay exposed when young. They'll either dig down at night or hide. The correct substrate is a little more difficult to dig down into. That substrate should be bagged pure Orchid bark.
The MVB lights are both too bright and too desicating. They're also not reliable or consistent from bulb to bulb.
Your UVB needs to be from a T5 HO strip florescent UVB tube. Or the newer LED UVB strip lights. And for warmth you should use CHEs. They can be used day and night because they provide no light.
The humidifier should not be needed. Just add a bit of water to the outside edges of the enclosure and it will release humidity as it evaporates.
Be careful with temperatures over 92. That's uncomfortably warm for a Redfoot in my opinion. Though not dangerous.
Adjustments and changes will take a little tweaking. But once you've got your parameters set up it gets pretty easy.
Thanks! I'll definitely make the switch to CHEs. I already have a T5 bulb. It's a reptizoo T5 39W UVB10. I'm just not sure how low I'm supposed to hang it for it to actually be useful.
 

TammyJ

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Thanks! I'll definitely make the switch to CHEs. I already have a T5 bulb. It's a reptizoo T5 39W UVB10. I'm just not sure how low I'm supposed to hang it for it to actually be useful.
Hi and welcome. You are getting the best redfoot advice from Zeropilot. Change that peat moss as advised, before it makes your gorgeous little tortoise sick.
 

ZEROPILOT

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Thanks! I'll definitely make the switch to CHEs. I already have a T5 bulb. It's a reptizoo T5 39W UVB10. I'm just not sure how low I'm supposed to hang it for it to actually be useful.
If it's relatively fresh, probably 20".
That's just a guess without a good UV 6.5 meter. But it should be close
 

jaizei

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Thanks! I'll definitely make the switch to CHEs. I already have a T5 bulb. It's a reptizoo T5 39W UVB10. I'm just not sure how low I'm supposed to hang it for it to actually be useful.

Is it a Reptizoo fixture also? I don't think Reptizoo is reliable enough to use without a meter. Not just the bulbs themselves, but the reflectors on the fixtures also. So even an Arcadia or Zoo Med bulb in the fixture would probably need to be tested to make sure its at the right level.
 

lynnefay

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If it's relatively fresh, probably 20".
That's just a guess without a good UV 6.5 meter. But it should be close
i have a fresh uvb 5 t5 tube over my redfoot. how high should i hang it? any help is much appreciated.
thank you
 

lynnefay

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If it's relatively fresh, probably 20".
That's just a guess without a good UV 6.5 meter. But it should be close
oh jeez, when i asked my question i mistyped
i actually have a zoo med fixture with reflector, t8 bulb, uvb 5.0 over my redfoot. how high should i hang it? thank you.
 

ZEROPILOT

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oh jeez, when i asked my question i mistyped
i actually have a zoo med fixture with reflector, t8 bulb, uvb 5.0 over my redfoot. how high should i hang it? thank you.
A T8 is unfortunately very underpowered.
It needs to be less than 8" away from the tortoise to provide any actual UVB. And it can't transmit through a screen top at all.
A T5HO is a much better choice.
 

ZEROPILOT

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i have a fresh uvb 5 t5 tube over my redfoot. how high should i hang it? any help is much appreciated.
thank you
A few years ago I tested a few different lights with a 6.5 UVB METER and found a few things. So I can kind of guess about the height a UVB tube needs to be. But we're talking about T5HO and not T8.
 

Mrs.Jennifer

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A few years ago I tested a few different lights with a 6.5 UVB METER and found a few things. So I can kind of guess about the height a UVB tube needs to be. But we're talking about T5HO and not T8.
I can attest that your posts about the T8 vs. the T5HO convinced me to switch. Tom’s insistence on a SolarMeter 6.5 confirmed that it was at the correct height. You guys ROCK!!
 

lynnefay

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OK, good to know:) Do redfoots need uvb throughout their enclosure or just in one area? I have heard they need a gradient.
 

lynnefay

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also, changing species...how high to for a 125mvb above a russian? i have it 12-13 inches from the top of their shells. it provides a 90-93ish basking temp, down to 72 in the rest of the enclosure
 

ZEROPILOT

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OK, good to know:) Do redfoots need uvb throughout their enclosure or just in one area? I have heard they need a gradient.
They don't need a uvb gradient. But they also don't need a whole lot of uvb exposure.
Partly indirect would be fine in my opinion. As long as there are also times when he does pass directly below it.
 

ZEROPILOT

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also, changing species...how high to for a 125mvb above a russian? i have it 12-13 inches from the top of their shells. it provides a 90-93ish basking temp, down to 72 in the rest of the enclosure
MVB aren't advisable because of the inconsistent level of UVB that they provide and in the way they broadcast it. They also have a very desicating effect on the tortoises shell carapace and they burn off useful humidity. Etc.

I don't keep Russian torts. Just Redfoot. But my opinion is that AT BEST these MVBs are ineffective and at worst, they're actually harmful. Especially in a smaller enclosure.
My strong suggestion is that you find a T5 HO strip florescent UVB. A 10.0 or a 12%.
That is what your Russian needs for healthy uvb. Then use a separate heat source. Maybe a CHE. These are great day and night because they provide warmth without any light. They're SUPER reliable. Inexpensive and they last for years
 
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