New Russian tortoise not eating

Dlamonda

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Hello,

I recently brought home a new Russian tortoise, it's been 5 days and he has not eaten anything I've offered. I've given him romaine lettuce, marigold flowers and leaves, garden sage, carrots, and baby arugula; but nothing seems to interest him. I have soaked him as well one day for about 20 minutes. He hasn't pooped yet either that I've seen.

Should I be worried?
That would be great. He doesn't eat, nothing. We tried per vet to use a syringe cant get mouth open. Vet tried yesterday same thing. He has had two antibiotics shots. His basking light is 85-90 his UVB/UVA is brand new. He has a cool side he sleeps in at night. Lights and heat are on timers 14 hours on.
Doing everything I've read been advised. I bathe him 2 times a day. I soaked him in rehydrating formula. Ive soaked him in carrot baby food. He hasnt pooped, peed or eaten in two months. He is getting weaker by the day. I put eye drops in his eye twice a day before soak. Eyes still not open.
 

Dlamonda

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My guy is going to die! I dont know what else to do?? I've offered him leafy greens, baby food pellets soaked mixed nothing touched nothing.
 

Blackdog1714

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Keep up the carrot and electrolyte soaks. Russians bruminate and can go months without eating. Keep him warm and hydrated
 

zovick

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Thank you! Rocks will be replaced. Bananas have been offered nothing. He goes back to vet today for his second shot of antibiotics. And she is going to try and force feed him. Hoping that kick starts his metabolism into eating. Thank you for advice. Anything helps
Is your vet a reptile/exotics vet? I ask this because it sounds as though your tortoise might do better with a feeding tube being placed rather than trying to force feed it and possibly give it pneumonia or even killing it from inhaling the food being put into its mouth.

As an aside, the antibiotic the vet used is a good one, but it is mainly for respiratory infections. I didn't see that your tortoise was diagnosed with that, though. In fact, the sheet says that respiratory condition was normal. However, you should probably follow through and give the tortoise at least 3 to 4 doses two or three days apart to get a complete course into the animal since it was started already.
 

Dlamonda

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Problem is he isn't getting any of that. Yes to answer your question she is a reptile vet there are 3 in our area. If in a couple weeks nothing changes I will seek the advice of one of the other options
 

zovick

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Problem is he isn't getting any of that. Yes to answer your question she is a reptile vet there are 3 in our area. If in a couple weeks nothing changes I will seek the advice of one of the other options
Not sure what you mean when saying "he isn't getting any of that". Do you mean the food getting into his mouth? I think so, but am not sure from the way the sentence is worded.

My point was that with a feeding tube, the tortoise doesn't have to be forced to open its mouth at all. The tube is a direct route to the stomach and you can control what it "eats" and how much, etc. Plus it is a very simple way to give accurate doses of oral medications such as antibiotics and wormers, and water as well to hydrate the animal.

The feeding tubes are placed into the esophagus/stomach through a small hole between the neck and the front leg. Then the food or other meds are given via a syringe into the tube and thus into the stomach, bypassing the mouth and the trachea completely. It is very handy for tortoises who are too debilitated or depressed to eat on their own and s very useful in getting nourishment and medication into them without the stress or danger of inhalation related to forcibly putting food into the mouth.
 

Dlamonda

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Yes I was referring to even when offered he doesn't take it. I just called my other option aka vet. They are going to call me when they are out of surgery. I will keep you posted. I think this vet has more experience. However, very expensive.
 

zovick

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Yes I was referring to even when offered he doesn't take it. I just called my other option aka vet. They are going to call me when they are out of surgery. I will keep you posted. I think this vet has more experience. However, very expensive.
Good luck! Keep us posted on what transpires over the next few days, please.
 

Dlamonda

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Can someone tell me difference between
T5 and T8
Only one at Petco was T8 now im seeing T5 being recommended???? Advice appreciated
 

AgataP

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My Russian when I got him at first it was September and he didn’t touch food for 3 months, I was a kid didn’t know anything about soaks. There was no internet and all I did looked for stuff in old books .... I knew that he will slow down for winter. He finally one day lifted his head ate a piece of banana and lettuce and went back to his sleepy time. Till about March.
 

Blackdog1714

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T5 are better. Most pet store carry them so if you get a good fixture with a reflector then if the bulb goes then you easily get a replacement. With that said planning ahead allows you to got one of the best on the market Arcadia T5 lamp. A Sunblaster 904296 NanoTech T5 High Output Fixture Reflector Combo, 2-Feet long is $49 on Amazon
 

Zoeclare

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Can someone tell me difference between
T5 and T8
Only one at Petco was T8 now im seeing T5 being recommended???? Advice appreciated
The T5 is the newer version, I've personally never used a T8 so I don't know what they were like but I would go T5 if you can get one
 

zovick

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Can someone tell me difference between
T5 and T8
Only one at Petco was T8 now im seeing T5 being recommended???? Advice appreciated

Here you go. T5 is the smallest in diameter and the electrodes on them are closer together than those on the T8 and T12 bulbs, so a T5 needs a different fixture than the T8 and T12 sizes. T5 bulbs run fairly hot compared to the T8 and T12 also. Other than that, I didn't notice a big difference in the UV output in my enclosure set-ups (but others may have different opinions). I have used all three types myself. I like the T8 best for my purposes.

There are three common sizes, shown in the chart the below. The difference is in the diameter.
fluorescent_light_bulb_sizes


Fluorescent T12s
T12s are 1.5-inch diameter fluorescent tubes. These are the oldest of the fluorescent tubes and they almost always run off magnetic ballasts, which are no longer manufactured.

Typically, you see T12s in troffers. Sometimes, you’ll find T12s in older warehouses or older hallways in apartment complexes. High-output T12s are also found in signage.

T12s are beginning to phase out, and there are very few 1.5-inch LED tubes on the market. In most instances, a T8 or T5 will work in its place.

Shop T12 linear fluorescents

Fluorescent T8s
T8s are 1-inch diameter fluorescent tubes, and they are the most prevalent of all fluorescent tubes. Four-foot T8s, in particular, are used everywhere – in hospitals, commercial office spaces, schools, retail spaces, warehouses... everywhere.

T8s are energy efficient, inexpensive, and produce a lot of light (lumens). Typically you’ll find T8s in troffers. However, you’ll also see them in strip lights, some high-bay fixtures, and sometimes you'll even find them in more specialty applications, like cove lighting. Rarely, they're used in decorative applications.

Are you doing a fluorescent lighting retrofit to LED? Read about your options here.

Shop T8 linear fluorescents

Fluorescent T5s
T5s are fluorescent tubes that are 5/8 of an inch in diameter. These are the newest development in the fluorescent family. Although they are the smallest, they are the most energy efficient and brightest. In fact, some T5s last up to 90,000 hours.

Because of their energy efficiency and light output (i.e. lumen output), you see a lot of high output T5s used in warehouse fixtures. You’ll also see them in over the counter lighting, shelf lighting, or cubby lighting in retail spaces because of their compact size.
 

Dlamonda

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So my T8 is suspended above his habitat approx 12 inches from top of his shell. Which was recommended.
Now for the bad news. Took him to vet today, different vet 3rd visit in a week. They are keeping over weekend. My poor little guy.
 

Blackdog1714

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So my T8 is suspended above his habitat approx 12 inches from top of his shell. Which was recommended.
Now for the bad news. Took him to vet today, different vet 3rd visit in a week. They are keeping over weekend. My poor little guy.
He may have something going on that started way before he ever got to your care. He was in way worse care with the grand daughter sadly. You have to understand that you are doing more for him than most people would ever do almost any pet let alone a reptile. Have faith they are amazingly resilient!
 

zovick

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So my T8 is suspended above his habitat approx 12 inches from top of his shell. Which was recommended.
Now for the bad news. Took him to vet today, different vet 3rd visit in a week. They are keeping over weekend. My poor little guy.
Did the vet recommend a feeding tube or discuss that idea with you?
 

Dlamonda

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My vet is going to call me in a bit. I gave him all the paperwork from previous vet. Im very anxious to hear from him. Also someone advised against the small gravel I had. So today it got replaced with river pebbles. Wash rinsed dried and look great.
 

KarenSoCal

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I've been reading this thread, and have a couple questions.

Have any of these vets x-rayed him to rule out impaction or bladder stone? Have they x-rayed to see if there is a reason why he possibly can't open his mouth?

Were his eyes closed before he came to you? Have you ever actually seen his eyes?

If his eyes were closed when your grand daughter had him, what kind of UVB light did she use (if she used one).

I'm thinking that possibly he isn't eating because he can't see his food. I know that a tortoise born blind can manage fine. And a tortoise that loses one eye does well. But how about a tortoise that loses both eyes? Does anyone know how well they fare?

You said the vet couldn't pry them open using a Q-tip. If he has an infection, it could be inside his eyes, and he is in terrible pain. Do you ever see him rub his eyes with his front legs?

There are 2 ways that tortoises get injured eyes other than fighting. The first is by using a cfl or compact UVB screw-in bulb. It burns the cornea, and the tortoise closes the eyes. Most recover when the bulb is removed, but not all of them.

The 2nd way they get injured is during brumation outside, or in a refrigerator. The eyeballs can freeze if the temp drops low enough. With a very light frost, the eyes heal, but it takes many months. For a solid freeze, the eye is no longer useful.

Anyway, it's another avenue to explore if they don't unearth a cause this weekend.
 

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