New Stack of Animal Plastics CLosed Chambers

Tom

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Is the ballast what creates most of the heat? Todd from lightyourreptiles recommended his double bulb fixtures for closed chambers as they have a remote ballast
Yes. Most of the heat is generated in the ballast. The bulbs also produce some warmth, but should be manageable. Only your own thermometer in your own enclosure in your own room can answer for sure.
 

Tom

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@Tom for a redfoot should I add ventilation? I just ordered mine without but still have time to make adjustments. I am debating using two 60 watt CHE's or RHP. My room is always in the 70's but does get near 80 in the summer afternoons. In the winter it is low 70's. I am doing fluorescents for UVB and light all in one as LED's don't provide UVB to my knowledge. I worry with ventilation humidity will be very hard to maintain in the winter, but without too warm in the summer. I could always lower the temp on my thermostat to 80 instead of 85 where it is now to heat the whole cage with one CHE. Any advice on ventilation and the benefits of RHP over the two CHE's I have now is appreciated.

I much prefer the RHPs because they produce even heat spread out over a greater area. This will be less desiccating to the carapace.
 

Erik Elvis

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Yes. Most of the heat is generated in the ballast. The bulbs also produce some warmth, but should be manageable. Only your own thermometer in your own enclosure in your own room can answer for sure.

Aahhh got it. I was going to have AP mount everything in the cage but think I’m just gonna stick with them putting a couple incandescent fixtures in and doing the heat panels and flourescent fixtures my self. Ali said they would just mount the flourescents flush to the top of the cage and she recommended doing it myself with a hook Or however if I wanted some adjustability. She’s super nice to deal with.

Oh and I ordered another T70..... ;)
 
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daniellenc

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The pre-cut vent slits that came with mine seem to be just right. You can see them in the first pic of this thread.

Thank you I was worried about letting too much humidity out but I guess I could cover them as needed. Now to figure out the lights. I’ve tried to comprehend @Markw84 lighting threads but it is waaaaay over my head. Redfoots don’t like bright lights but other than a UVB fluorescent strip near the center where his food will go no clue what’s the best lighting to use on each end seeing as I’ll possibly have 2 CHE’s there if I don’t go RHP which is looking likely because I’d had room for low watt flood lights on each end. Also in a 24 inch cage fluorescent lights would need to be side mounted lower and not from the roof right?
 

Tom

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Thank you I was worried about letting too much humidity out but I guess I could cover them as needed. Now to figure out the lights. I’ve tried to comprehend @Markw84 lighting threads but it is waaaaay over my head. Redfoots don’t like bright lights but other than a UVB fluorescent strip near the center where his food will go no clue what’s the best lighting to use on each end seeing as I’ll possibly have 2 CHE’s there if I don’t go RHP which is looking likely because I’d had room for low watt flood lights on each end. Also in a 24 inch cage fluorescent lights would need to be side mounted lower and not from the roof right?
Someone who keeps RFs would be better to answer specifics about heating and lighting for them, but florescent lights in general should be mounted from the top, not the side.
 
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AKA: Tom's baby emporium.

@GStars asked for a pic on my new baby raising enclosures the other day. I only had a partial, but I took a fuller one today.

Each cage is 96x30 and divided in the middle into two 48x30 cages for starting babies. The colored tape on each upper right corner shows the number of babies in each enclosure and also corresponds to the soaking tubs that rest on top of the cages. I've got stars on top, sulcatas in the middle and SA leopards on the bottom.
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I really like this how did you build this?
 

daniellenc

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What is a RHP?
Radiant heat panels. Lasts for a lifetime pretty much, distributes heat evenly, and is easier on the shell. They're more efficient in larger cages to keep temps more consistent.
 

Maro2Bear

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I had them install an incandescent fixture on each side of each enclosure. They cut channels for the wires on the top of the cage and everything sits flush without having the wires inside. Its a really neat feature they offer. There are many little details like this that show the true attention to detail and quality that this company offers. Every element of the design is well thought out and well executed.

I went with LEDs instead of florescent bulbs. Florescent bulbs would probably over heat the whole thing. These cages have very good insulation properties. Its already 80 in the reptile room and these cages get into the 90s with just the little incandescent bulbs.

I tried my usual 65 watt floods and they were way too hot. Went down to 45 floods and still made a basking spot of 122. Tried a 39 watt, but it was a spot and it made the basking area 140. Ended up using a regular round bulb that is 43 watts, but says it makes the light equivalent of 60 watts. We had a warm spell last week with daily highs in the low to mid 90s outside and the reptile room got pretty warm. I decided to install thermostats on the basking bulbs. Now the basking bulbs cut off if ambient gets over 95-96, but the LEDs stay on their timer.

No need for a CHE or RHP to maintain ambient since the whole room is kept at 80 or higher 24/7/365.

No need for UV since all my babies get real sunshine 3-4 times a week minimum.

The upper cages are warmer, but I think it is due more to the temp gradient of the room than heat transfer from below. The bottom of one cage plus the top of the one under it creates a 1" PVC insulation barrier between cages. I'll do an experiment with three thermometers of the same type at three levels in the room and see what we get. This is how I decided which species would go where. Stars on top since they like it so hot, sulcatas in the middle, and SA leopards on bottom. In reality, all of them run about the same temp with the same basking lamp set up in each.

Regardless of how any of this explanation sounds, the proof is in the pudding. The babies are thriving in there. Appetites are huge, growth rate is good, and the leopards, who have been in there the longest are the smoothest leopards I've ever grown. Sulcatas have only been in for a few days and stars went in last week, but I expect the same results from them.

The only thing I would change is adding more of these cages. I've got three more ordered already!

Wow.... all great info coupled to a great indoor set-up. Tks
 

Kaliman1962

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@Tom my 3 leopards will be outgoing the closed camber i have them in. it is 48x24x18, i'm looking into the Animal Plastics 96x24x24.
how long will this enclosure last them? right now they are about 10 months old
thank you
 

Tom

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@Tom my 3 leopards will be outgoing the closed camber i have them in. it is 48x24x18, i'm looking into the Animal Plastics 96x24x24.
how long will this enclosure last them? right now they are about 10 months old
thank you
Growth rates vary tremendously and for a lot of reasons. No way to know. Either way, I'g get the 96x36 size.
 

Kaliman1962

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Growth rates vary tremendously and for a lot of reasons. No way to know. Either way, I'g get the 96x36 size.
do you get the tanks with the 8in holes drilled on top? what accessories should i have installed?
thanks @Tom
 

Tom

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do you get the tanks with the 8in holes drilled on top? what accessories should i have installed?
thanks @Tom
No holes on top. I did these customizations:
  1. 6" litter dam
  2. Sliding glass doors
  3. White
  4. One incandescent fixture on each side
  5. I then add my own LED lighting, 25 watt round bulbs timers and thermostats. Use a radiant heat panel and another thermostat if you need ambient heat.
 

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