New Star Owner. (Also care sheet)

netjerk

New Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2017
Messages
21
Location (City and/or State)
Malaysia
Hi, I just got my Star 2 weeks ago. Quite a tough time for me and the little one for the past 2 weeks. First with worm in poo and I bring him (I assume he is male) to vet for de-worming treatment. Then later he just don't want to eat the food I prepared. I was worry if he is not well internally hence bring him to do Xray. Vet confirmed bone are good and strong, no stone or blockage, no respiratory issue. The problem now he is still not eating and getting weaker. Need advise from fellow Star Owner.....

Attached in this post was the setup of his home with water dish, lamp, food area and lamp.

Below is the green I provide to him...

Choy sum is a leafy vegetable commonly used in Chinese cuisine. It is a member of the Brassica genus and the Brassicaceae family. Choy sum is a transliteration of the Cantonese name, which can be literally translated as "vegetable stem". Wikipedia
Scientific name: Brassica chinensis var. parachinensis
Choy-Sum.jpg


Sweet Potatoes Leaves
sweet-potato-leaves-1024x681.jpg


Above are suppose to be main diet, occasionally will add in small amount of Mulberry leaves and Hibiscus Flower.
Besides green, I added Mazuri pellet as supplement for him too.
 

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Markw84

Well-Known Member
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 17, 2012
Messages
5,041
Location (City and/or State)
Sacramento, CA (Central Valley)
Hi, I just got my Star 2 weeks ago. Quite a tough time for me and the little one for the past 2 weeks. First with worm in poo and I bring him (I assume he is male) to vet for de-worming treatment. Then later he just don't want to eat the food I prepared. I was worry if he is not well internally hence bring him to do Xray. Vet confirmed bone are good and strong, no stone or blockage, no respiratory issue. The problem now he is still not eating and getting weaker. Need advise from fellow Star Owner.....
.

Congratulations on your new tortoise. I see you decided on a star over an aldabra. Can you please post a picture of the tortoise? Would love to see what you got.

Please allow me to go ahead and post a copy of a more detailed account of how and why I believe star tortoises should be kept. I think it will give you the answers you are looking for. Almost always, a young tortoise that is lethargic and not eating well, sleeping and hiding a lot is because of the way it is being kept and the environment that has been created for it in captivity. Here is everything you ever wanted to know about raising a star tortoise!!!


Stars, Leopards, and Sulcata tortoises are almost identical in care requirements, especially their first few years to get them started properly and thriving. These tortoises, their first few years, will fail to thrive and be active, unless you provide proper heat, humidity, and light.

Leopard and star hatchlings are amongst the more sensitive tortoise hatchlings to raise properly. I treat them the same. Both are also extremely prone to pyramiding if not kept very humid. They also need a lot of warmth. I always follow what I call the 80/80 rule for tortoises I refer to as "monsoon tortoises". I keep them at a minimum of 80°f and 80% relative humidity. I use the term monsoon, because most of the information out there for Leopards, Sulcatas, and Stars is outdated. It incorrectly assumes since they are from areas that get very dry and hot, they are a "desert" species. They are not. The have to hide and aestivate and wait out the drier seasons, and grow and thrive when the monsoons come. The monsoon season is what you want to duplicate in their housing.

To properly control heat and humidity, you will almost always have to go with a closed chamber. Open tortoise tables do not work and are extremely bad for these type tortoises. Humidity should always stay around 80% and temperatures should never drop below 80°f (27°C). They need a basking area where it is around 100°f (38°C). Daytime overall temps in the enclosure should be in the 27° - 32° range. A humid hide should be provided that holds humidity, provides security, and stays around 28° - 29° So even when living in a humid, tropical environment, the conditions inside of an open enclosure, inside a house, with proper basking lights – cannot create this constant, warm and high humidity that is preferred.

The best substrate I have found is orchid bark. Pet shops sell it as reptibark, but it is about 5 times more expensive if sold by a pet shop as opposed to going to a garden center and buying fine grade, pure, orchid bark. It holds moisture well, and will not mold. All my tortoises thrive no it. I put about 3" layer in the enclosure and dump about a gallon of water in and mix it all up so the bark is uniformly moist. That keeps the humidity up and simulates the conditions they would be actively growing in the wild. Never let the temps drop below 27°. Never use a heat pad, or heat from below.

To control heat and light you will need:

A UVB/UVA source. They need UVB exposure to properly manufacture vitamin D3 so they can utilize calcium they need for proper bone growth. Outside, full sun just a few hours a week will do this. If you live in a climate where regular outside time is going to be offered, you do not have to worry about buying a special UVB producing bulb. Keep In mind the sunlight must be unfiltered and not blocked by window glass, screen or plastic covers. Be sure to guard against overheating and provide shade as well. But you will still need good balanced lighting and proper heat and basking light and heat for the indoors enclosure. If regular natural unfiltered sunlight is not possible, you need to provide a UVB source. UVA is also critical for proper health and activity. It is a key trigger for activity, breeding, and feeding. Be sure you have both adequate UVA and UVB available. A Fluorescent tube is the best for this. Arcadia is a great brand popular in Europe. I use the T5 HO 12.0 46" bulb. (Some use a MVB (mercury vapor bulb) for both heat and UVB, but I find they are impossible to use in a properly enclosed chamber as they will overheat the enclosure. That is why the fluorescent tubes are by far the best choice. Also the MVB tend to stop putting out good UVB within 4-8 months by actual measurement.) The fluorescent tubes I use continue to provide good UVB for a few years. I always check UVB output with a solarmeter to ensure proper exposure.

A Basking area light. Your tortoise needs to be able to heat its core body temp up to properly metabolize food. A tortoise also needs to be able to heat their skin to allow for the metabolism of Pre-vitamin D to Vitamin D3. This happens primarily in the thinner skin on the backs of their legs which you will see them stretch out and expose while basking. This takes a few hours of basking time a week. Basking also stimulates activity. I use simple incandescent FLOOD bulbs. 50-65 watts is plenty, hung above the basking area adjusting height to get a temperature of 38°-39° directly below at tortoise shell height. Do not use a spot type bulb. They focus the heat in too narrow a place and will overly desiccate the carapace. I have my lights on a timer that is set for 14 hours a day of light, followed by 10 hours of complete darkness.

Night heat/overall temp control. You need to ensure the temp never drops below 27°. You want total darkness for proper night rest. I use a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) for this connected to a thermostat set for 27°. This will probably only kick on briefly at night as the lights will provide enough heat during the day. It will kick on if the enclosure temperature drops below 27° and back off once it reaches 28°. A CHE heats by emitting far-IR - which is a deeper heating, less desiccating type of IR heat. They emit no visible light. Do not use any type of incandescent "night light" like the red, or blue, or black night lights. Tortoises have much better color vision than humans, and can see wavelengths we cannot. They actually have 4 types of cones in their eye vs. humans who have only 3. Colors look much different to them, and are key triggers for activity,eating, circadian and circannual rhythms. Red lights are well within their vision and red triggers many eating choices. Blue is also very visible to them, in fact, they can see ultraviolet light that is invisible to us. Blue also is a key Circadian trigger. In addition to all this, all these incandescent night bulbs also emit far more near-IR than they do visible light. Near-IR is infrared radiation that is very close (near) the wavelength that is visible light. It is far more desiccating to the carapace of the tortoise, and maintaining proper carapace and keratin hydration is key to preventing pyramiding.

Always have clean drinking water available in a source big enough for the tortoise to get into and soak. I use the clay saucers that go under flower pots. They work perfectly.

Soak your tortoise in a bath of warm water daily for 30 minutes or so as much as possible. This is extremely important for overall health and hydration. Use an opaque tub he cannot see out of and ensure the water stays in the 30° to 38° range. I start with water that is about 38° and by the time it has cooled to 31° or so, your tortoise will probably have pooed in the water and it will need changing anyway. Your tortoise will normally poo in the bath water and this will actually dramatically reduce mess in the enclosure that would have to be picked out. Your tortoise will learn to stretch out and "bask" in the soak for a bit and then become quite active, like he is trying to get out. I like this as it is a valuable exercise time for him. Kind of my tortoise treadmill. Exercise is very important to overall health, muscle/bone development, and proper bowel movement (gastro-intestinal health).

These tortoises need room to roam. Exercise is an important key in proper growth and muscle/bone development. I start hatchlings in a 3' x 6' enclosure. That will work for their first 2 years. Once they hit about 16-20cm, I would go with a 3’ x 8’ enclosure as a minimum. They need a place they can feel secure. I always provide a hide for them. Some will use it, and others prefer hiding under a plant. I always include potted plants in the enclosure that are tortoise edible. I keep the plants in a 6-8” clay pot that they cannot tip over, not destroy the plant. I will space 3 – 5 plants throughout the enclosure. I let it grow and as it creates an overhang, it creates and ideal and natural hide for the tortoise. It creates sight barriers in the enclosure and makes it much more natural looking. As it grows further, it provides some food the tortoise can nibble on as it can reach the newer, longer growth. Best plants for this are tortoise safe, and do well in warm, humid, lower light situations. I use: Boston Fern, Pothos Ivy, Spider Plant, Aloe, Coleus, and Prayer Plant. The first 3 are the easiest to grow in an indoor enclosure. The others will work but sometimes need rotating to a better window sill for rejuvenation, then back in the enclosure.

An adult “monsoon” tortoises should be outside as much as weather will permit. A hatchling will do much better in a closed chamber like I've described, than they will do outside, even in "perfect" temperatures outside. I limit outside time for young tortoises to about 1 hour outside time per day max. for each 1" in overall length of your tortoise. So I will limit outside time to 3 hours max in a day for a tortoise that is 3" (8cm) long.

Food is obviously very important. Leopard and star tortoises are primarily leafy green, with some grass, eaters. Be careful to feed foods with proper calcium to phosphorus ratios. They need high fiber. They cannot digest, and it unbalances the gut chemistry, if you give them fruits. Keep it low protein. If you have to supplement with grocery greens go with endive, the darkest green parts of Romaine, green leaf, red leaf. If you can get opuntia cactus (prickley pear cactus) it is one of the best sources of calcium and a great food. Weeds are the best. Dandelion, mallow, plantain, thistle, filaree, sow thistle, milk thistle, wild mustard, colvers, chick weed, hawksbit, hensbit, cats ear, nettles. Lots of plants you can grow are also great foods. I grow as many edible plants as possible anywhere I need plants in my landscaping: Mulberry leaves, grape leaves, hibiscus leaves & flowers, Rose of Sharon, rose, gazanias, petunias, pansies, hostas, honeysuckle, geraniums, leaves and blooms from any squash/pumpkin/cucumber, most succulents like jade or aeonium. Grass is also great for fiber, so start adding a bit of fresh cut grass on top of the food. It may take a while, but they do learn to like it.

For ideas, here is a few pictures of my enclosure I use. I've also added a picture of a 9 month old leopard and 10 month old sulcata from my group I have kept back to show you how a properly raised tortoise should look. Follow the guidelines above and you will see similar results. Before you take advice from anyone on raising a tortoise, ask to see picture of their tortoises they raised to see if what they are proposing really works, and is not just repeated theories they have obtained online...

IMG_2876.JPG

IMG_5184.JPG

Smooth sulcata.jpg
 

KevinGG

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Nov 16, 2013
Messages
1,119
Location (City and/or State)
Santa Cruz, CA
Congratulations on your new tortoise. I see you decided on a star over an aldabra. Can you please post a picture of the tortoise? Would love to see what you got.

Please allow me to go ahead and post a copy of a more detailed account of how and why I believe star tortoises should be kept. I think it will give you the answers you are looking for. Almost always, a young tortoise that is lethargic and not eating well, sleeping and hiding a lot is because of the way it is being kept and the environment that has been created for it in captivity. Here is everything you ever wanted to know about raising a star tortoise!!!


Stars, Leopards, and Sulcata tortoises are almost identical in care requirements, especially their first few years to get them started properly and thriving. These tortoises, their first few years, will fail to thrive and be active, unless you provide proper heat, humidity, and light.

Leopard and star hatchlings are amongst the more sensitive tortoise hatchlings to raise properly. I treat them the same. Both are also extremely prone to pyramiding if not kept very humid. They also need a lot of warmth. I always follow what I call the 80/80 rule for tortoises I refer to as "monsoon tortoises". I keep them at a minimum of 80°f and 80% relative humidity. I use the term monsoon, because most of the information out there for Leopards, Sulcatas, and Stars is outdated. It incorrectly assumes since they are from areas that get very dry and hot, they are a "desert" species. They are not. The have to hide and aestivate and wait out the drier seasons, and grow and thrive when the monsoons come. The monsoon season is what you want to duplicate in their housing.

To properly control heat and humidity, you will almost always have to go with a closed chamber. Open tortoise tables do not work and are extremely bad for these type tortoises. Humidity should always stay around 80% and temperatures should never drop below 80°f (27°C). They need a basking area where it is around 100°f (38°C). Daytime overall temps in the enclosure should be in the 27° - 32° range. A humid hide should be provided that holds humidity, provides security, and stays around 28° - 29° So even when living in a humid, tropical environment, the conditions inside of an open enclosure, inside a house, with proper basking lights – cannot create this constant, warm and high humidity that is preferred.

The best substrate I have found is orchid bark. Pet shops sell it as reptibark, but it is about 5 times more expensive if sold by a pet shop as opposed to going to a garden center and buying fine grade, pure, orchid bark. It holds moisture well, and will not mold. All my tortoises thrive no it. I put about 3" layer in the enclosure and dump about a gallon of water in and mix it all up so the bark is uniformly moist. That keeps the humidity up and simulates the conditions they would be actively growing in the wild. Never let the temps drop below 27°. Never use a heat pad, or heat from below.

To control heat and light you will need:

A UVB/UVA source. They need UVB exposure to properly manufacture vitamin D3 so they can utilize calcium they need for proper bone growth. Outside, full sun just a few hours a week will do this. If you live in a climate where regular outside time is going to be offered, you do not have to worry about buying a special UVB producing bulb. Keep In mind the sunlight must be unfiltered and not blocked by window glass, screen or plastic covers. Be sure to guard against overheating and provide shade as well. But you will still need good balanced lighting and proper heat and basking light and heat for the indoors enclosure. If regular natural unfiltered sunlight is not possible, you need to provide a UVB source. UVA is also critical for proper health and activity. It is a key trigger for activity, breeding, and feeding. Be sure you have both adequate UVA and UVB available. A Fluorescent tube is the best for this. Arcadia is a great brand popular in Europe. I use the T5 HO 12.0 46" bulb. (Some use a MVB (mercury vapor bulb) for both heat and UVB, but I find they are impossible to use in a properly enclosed chamber as they will overheat the enclosure. That is why the fluorescent tubes are by far the best choice. Also the MVB tend to stop putting out good UVB within 4-8 months by actual measurement.) The fluorescent tubes I use continue to provide good UVB for a few years. I always check UVB output with a solarmeter to ensure proper exposure.

A Basking area light. Your tortoise needs to be able to heat its core body temp up to properly metabolize food. A tortoise also needs to be able to heat their skin to allow for the metabolism of Pre-vitamin D to Vitamin D3. This happens primarily in the thinner skin on the backs of their legs which you will see them stretch out and expose while basking. This takes a few hours of basking time a week. Basking also stimulates activity. I use simple incandescent FLOOD bulbs. 50-65 watts is plenty, hung above the basking area adjusting height to get a temperature of 38°-39° directly below at tortoise shell height. Do not use a spot type bulb. They focus the heat in too narrow a place and will overly desiccate the carapace. I have my lights on a timer that is set for 14 hours a day of light, followed by 10 hours of complete darkness.

Night heat/overall temp control. You need to ensure the temp never drops below 27°. You want total darkness for proper night rest. I use a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) for this connected to a thermostat set for 27°. This will probably only kick on briefly at night as the lights will provide enough heat during the day. It will kick on if the enclosure temperature drops below 27° and back off once it reaches 28°. A CHE heats by emitting far-IR - which is a deeper heating, less desiccating type of IR heat. They emit no visible light. Do not use any type of incandescent "night light" like the red, or blue, or black night lights. Tortoises have much better color vision than humans, and can see wavelengths we cannot. They actually have 4 types of cones in their eye vs. humans who have only 3. Colors look much different to them, and are key triggers for activity,eating, circadian and circannual rhythms. Red lights are well within their vision and red triggers many eating choices. Blue is also very visible to them, in fact, they can see ultraviolet light that is invisible to us. Blue also is a key Circadian trigger. In addition to all this, all these incandescent night bulbs also emit far more near-IR than they do visible light. Near-IR is infrared radiation that is very close (near) the wavelength that is visible light. It is far more desiccating to the carapace of the tortoise, and maintaining proper carapace and keratin hydration is key to preventing pyramiding.

Always have clean drinking water available in a source big enough for the tortoise to get into and soak. I use the clay saucers that go under flower pots. They work perfectly.

Soak your tortoise in a bath of warm water daily for 30 minutes or so as much as possible. This is extremely important for overall health and hydration. Use an opaque tub he cannot see out of and ensure the water stays in the 30° to 38° range. I start with water that is about 38° and by the time it has cooled to 31° or so, your tortoise will probably have pooed in the water and it will need changing anyway. Your tortoise will normally poo in the bath water and this will actually dramatically reduce mess in the enclosure that would have to be picked out. Your tortoise will learn to stretch out and "bask" in the soak for a bit and then become quite active, like he is trying to get out. I like this as it is a valuable exercise time for him. Kind of my tortoise treadmill. Exercise is very important to overall health, muscle/bone development, and proper bowel movement (gastro-intestinal health).

These tortoises need room to roam. Exercise is an important key in proper growth and muscle/bone development. I start hatchlings in a 3' x 6' enclosure. That will work for their first 2 years. Once they hit about 16-20cm, I would go with a 3’ x 8’ enclosure as a minimum. They need a place they can feel secure. I always provide a hide for them. Some will use it, and others prefer hiding under a plant. I always include potted plants in the enclosure that are tortoise edible. I keep the plants in a 6-8” clay pot that they cannot tip over, not destroy the plant. I will space 3 – 5 plants throughout the enclosure. I let it grow and as it creates an overhang, it creates and ideal and natural hide for the tortoise. It creates sight barriers in the enclosure and makes it much more natural looking. As it grows further, it provides some food the tortoise can nibble on as it can reach the newer, longer growth. Best plants for this are tortoise safe, and do well in warm, humid, lower light situations. I use: Boston Fern, Pothos Ivy, Spider Plant, Aloe, Coleus, and Prayer Plant. The first 3 are the easiest to grow in an indoor enclosure. The others will work but sometimes need rotating to a better window sill for rejuvenation, then back in the enclosure.

An adult “monsoon” tortoises should be outside as much as weather will permit. A hatchling will do much better in a closed chamber like I've described, than they will do outside, even in "perfect" temperatures outside. I limit outside time for young tortoises to about 1 hour outside time per day max. for each 1" in overall length of your tortoise. So I will limit outside time to 3 hours max in a day for a tortoise that is 3" (8cm) long.

Food is obviously very important. Leopard and star tortoises are primarily leafy green, with some grass, eaters. Be careful to feed foods with proper calcium to phosphorus ratios. They need high fiber. They cannot digest, and it unbalances the gut chemistry, if you give them fruits. Keep it low protein. If you have to supplement with grocery greens go with endive, the darkest green parts of Romaine, green leaf, red leaf. If you can get opuntia cactus (prickley pear cactus) it is one of the best sources of calcium and a great food. Weeds are the best. Dandelion, mallow, plantain, thistle, filaree, sow thistle, milk thistle, wild mustard, colvers, chick weed, hawksbit, hensbit, cats ear, nettles. Lots of plants you can grow are also great foods. I grow as many edible plants as possible anywhere I need plants in my landscaping: Mulberry leaves, grape leaves, hibiscus leaves & flowers, Rose of Sharon, rose, gazanias, petunias, pansies, hostas, honeysuckle, geraniums, leaves and blooms from any squash/pumpkin/cucumber, most succulents like jade or aeonium. Grass is also great for fiber, so start adding a bit of fresh cut grass on top of the food. It may take a while, but they do learn to like it.

For ideas, here is a few pictures of my enclosure I use. I've also added a picture of a 9 month old leopard and 10 month old sulcata from my group I have kept back to show you how a properly raised tortoise should look. Follow the guidelines above and you will see similar results. Before you take advice from anyone on raising a tortoise, ask to see picture of their tortoises they raised to see if what they are proposing really works, and is not just repeated theories they have obtained online...

View attachment 212481

View attachment 212482

View attachment 212483

We need a new sticky. :) This is great Mark.
 

netjerk

New Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2017
Messages
21
Location (City and/or State)
Malaysia
Congratulations on your new tortoise. I see you decided on a star over an aldabra. Can you please post a picture of the tortoise? Would love to see what you got.

Please allow me to go ahead and post a copy of a more detailed account of how and why I believe star tortoises should be kept. I think it will give you the answers you are looking for. Almost always, a young tortoise that is lethargic and not eating well, sleeping and hiding a lot is because of the way it is being kept and the environment that has been created for it in captivity. Here is everything you ever wanted to know about raising a star tortoise!!!


Stars, Leopards, and Sulcata tortoises are almost identical in care requirements, especially their first few years to get them started properly and thriving. These tortoises, their first few years, will fail to thrive and be active, unless you provide proper heat, humidity, and light.

Leopard and star hatchlings are amongst the more sensitive tortoise hatchlings to raise properly. I treat them the same. Both are also extremely prone to pyramiding if not kept very humid. They also need a lot of warmth. I always follow what I call the 80/80 rule for tortoises I refer to as "monsoon tortoises". I keep them at a minimum of 80°f and 80% relative humidity. I use the term monsoon, because most of the information out there for Leopards, Sulcatas, and Stars is outdated. It incorrectly assumes since they are from areas that get very dry and hot, they are a "desert" species. They are not. The have to hide and aestivate and wait out the drier seasons, and grow and thrive when the monsoons come. The monsoon season is what you want to duplicate in their housing.

To properly control heat and humidity, you will almost always have to go with a closed chamber. Open tortoise tables do not work and are extremely bad for these type tortoises. Humidity should always stay around 80% and temperatures should never drop below 80°f (27°C). They need a basking area where it is around 100°f (38°C). Daytime overall temps in the enclosure should be in the 27° - 32° range. A humid hide should be provided that holds humidity, provides security, and stays around 28° - 29° So even when living in a humid, tropical environment, the conditions inside of an open enclosure, inside a house, with proper basking lights – cannot create this constant, warm and high humidity that is preferred.

The best substrate I have found is orchid bark. Pet shops sell it as reptibark, but it is about 5 times more expensive if sold by a pet shop as opposed to going to a garden center and buying fine grade, pure, orchid bark. It holds moisture well, and will not mold. All my tortoises thrive no it. I put about 3" layer in the enclosure and dump about a gallon of water in and mix it all up so the bark is uniformly moist. That keeps the humidity up and simulates the conditions they would be actively growing in the wild. Never let the temps drop below 27°. Never use a heat pad, or heat from below.

To control heat and light you will need:

A UVB/UVA source. They need UVB exposure to properly manufacture vitamin D3 so they can utilize calcium they need for proper bone growth. Outside, full sun just a few hours a week will do this. If you live in a climate where regular outside time is going to be offered, you do not have to worry about buying a special UVB producing bulb. Keep In mind the sunlight must be unfiltered and not blocked by window glass, screen or plastic covers. Be sure to guard against overheating and provide shade as well. But you will still need good balanced lighting and proper heat and basking light and heat for the indoors enclosure. If regular natural unfiltered sunlight is not possible, you need to provide a UVB source. UVA is also critical for proper health and activity. It is a key trigger for activity, breeding, and feeding. Be sure you have both adequate UVA and UVB available. A Fluorescent tube is the best for this. Arcadia is a great brand popular in Europe. I use the T5 HO 12.0 46" bulb. (Some use a MVB (mercury vapor bulb) for both heat and UVB, but I find they are impossible to use in a properly enclosed chamber as they will overheat the enclosure. That is why the fluorescent tubes are by far the best choice. Also the MVB tend to stop putting out good UVB within 4-8 months by actual measurement.) The fluorescent tubes I use continue to provide good UVB for a few years. I always check UVB output with a solarmeter to ensure proper exposure.

A Basking area light. Your tortoise needs to be able to heat its core body temp up to properly metabolize food. A tortoise also needs to be able to heat their skin to allow for the metabolism of Pre-vitamin D to Vitamin D3. This happens primarily in the thinner skin on the backs of their legs which you will see them stretch out and expose while basking. This takes a few hours of basking time a week. Basking also stimulates activity. I use simple incandescent FLOOD bulbs. 50-65 watts is plenty, hung above the basking area adjusting height to get a temperature of 38°-39° directly below at tortoise shell height. Do not use a spot type bulb. They focus the heat in too narrow a place and will overly desiccate the carapace. I have my lights on a timer that is set for 14 hours a day of light, followed by 10 hours of complete darkness.

Night heat/overall temp control. You need to ensure the temp never drops below 27°. You want total darkness for proper night rest. I use a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) for this connected to a thermostat set for 27°. This will probably only kick on briefly at night as the lights will provide enough heat during the day. It will kick on if the enclosure temperature drops below 27° and back off once it reaches 28°. A CHE heats by emitting far-IR - which is a deeper heating, less desiccating type of IR heat. They emit no visible light. Do not use any type of incandescent "night light" like the red, or blue, or black night lights. Tortoises have much better color vision than humans, and can see wavelengths we cannot. They actually have 4 types of cones in their eye vs. humans who have only 3. Colors look much different to them, and are key triggers for activity,eating, circadian and circannual rhythms. Red lights are well within their vision and red triggers many eating choices. Blue is also very visible to them, in fact, they can see ultraviolet light that is invisible to us. Blue also is a key Circadian trigger. In addition to all this, all these incandescent night bulbs also emit far more near-IR than they do visible light. Near-IR is infrared radiation that is very close (near) the wavelength that is visible light. It is far more desiccating to the carapace of the tortoise, and maintaining proper carapace and keratin hydration is key to preventing pyramiding.

Always have clean drinking water available in a source big enough for the tortoise to get into and soak. I use the clay saucers that go under flower pots. They work perfectly.

Soak your tortoise in a bath of warm water daily for 30 minutes or so as much as possible. This is extremely important for overall health and hydration. Use an opaque tub he cannot see out of and ensure the water stays in the 30° to 38° range. I start with water that is about 38° and by the time it has cooled to 31° or so, your tortoise will probably have pooed in the water and it will need changing anyway. Your tortoise will normally poo in the bath water and this will actually dramatically reduce mess in the enclosure that would have to be picked out. Your tortoise will learn to stretch out and "bask" in the soak for a bit and then become quite active, like he is trying to get out. I like this as it is a valuable exercise time for him. Kind of my tortoise treadmill. Exercise is very important to overall health, muscle/bone development, and proper bowel movement (gastro-intestinal health).

These tortoises need room to roam. Exercise is an important key in proper growth and muscle/bone development. I start hatchlings in a 3' x 6' enclosure. That will work for their first 2 years. Once they hit about 16-20cm, I would go with a 3’ x 8’ enclosure as a minimum. They need a place they can feel secure. I always provide a hide for them. Some will use it, and others prefer hiding under a plant. I always include potted plants in the enclosure that are tortoise edible. I keep the plants in a 6-8” clay pot that they cannot tip over, not destroy the plant. I will space 3 – 5 plants throughout the enclosure. I let it grow and as it creates an overhang, it creates and ideal and natural hide for the tortoise. It creates sight barriers in the enclosure and makes it much more natural looking. As it grows further, it provides some food the tortoise can nibble on as it can reach the newer, longer growth. Best plants for this are tortoise safe, and do well in warm, humid, lower light situations. I use: Boston Fern, Pothos Ivy, Spider Plant, Aloe, Coleus, and Prayer Plant. The first 3 are the easiest to grow in an indoor enclosure. The others will work but sometimes need rotating to a better window sill for rejuvenation, then back in the enclosure.

An adult “monsoon” tortoises should be outside as much as weather will permit. A hatchling will do much better in a closed chamber like I've described, than they will do outside, even in "perfect" temperatures outside. I limit outside time for young tortoises to about 1 hour outside time per day max. for each 1" in overall length of your tortoise. So I will limit outside time to 3 hours max in a day for a tortoise that is 3" (8cm) long.

Food is obviously very important. Leopard and star tortoises are primarily leafy green, with some grass, eaters. Be careful to feed foods with proper calcium to phosphorus ratios. They need high fiber. They cannot digest, and it unbalances the gut chemistry, if you give them fruits. Keep it low protein. If you have to supplement with grocery greens go with endive, the darkest green parts of Romaine, green leaf, red leaf. If you can get opuntia cactus (prickley pear cactus) it is one of the best sources of calcium and a great food. Weeds are the best. Dandelion, mallow, plantain, thistle, filaree, sow thistle, milk thistle, wild mustard, colvers, chick weed, hawksbit, hensbit, cats ear, nettles. Lots of plants you can grow are also great foods. I grow as many edible plants as possible anywhere I need plants in my landscaping: Mulberry leaves, grape leaves, hibiscus leaves & flowers, Rose of Sharon, rose, gazanias, petunias, pansies, hostas, honeysuckle, geraniums, leaves and blooms from any squash/pumpkin/cucumber, most succulents like jade or aeonium. Grass is also great for fiber, so start adding a bit of fresh cut grass on top of the food. It may take a while, but they do learn to like it.

For ideas, here is a few pictures of my enclosure I use. I've also added a picture of a 9 month old leopard and 10 month old sulcata from my group I have kept back to show you how a properly raised tortoise should look. Follow the guidelines above and you will see similar results. Before you take advice from anyone on raising a tortoise, ask to see picture of their tortoises they raised to see if what they are proposing really works, and is not just repeated theories they have obtained online...

View attachment 212481

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Thanks Mark, that was a very good detail for beginner like me.
I lived in Southeast Asia, the rules of 80/80 is not an issue here. We have humidity on average at about 80% daily and temperature of 27°C to 34°C. Since I am placing my Star indoor day time room temperature is lower at about 30°C but I have a basking lamp (MVB, don't think fluorescent type available in my place) properly setup to provide temperature around 34°C. A shade was provided in case he felt needed to hide and a big ceramic water dish (flower pot tray) with water change daily was available for him to soak or drink.
When there's sun in the morning I will place him in a container (non-transparent) to soak while getting the sunlight. Then follow by a free running time in the small garden which he sometime might eat the weed from there.
The 2 greens I provide, Choy Sum and Potatoes leaves has the best calcium and phosphorus ratios we can find from local market. Unfortunately my Star do not fancy these green, I suspect previous owner (the seller) fed him something else that causes his diet changed. Last I heard was he fed this Star with cabbage which I read online was a bad food for tortoise.
I am trying to be persistent in making my Star to take proper diet but looking at him being weaker by day is heart-aching. Wonder if this is the usual process of getting them to follow the diet they should have? How long usually will get them back to track in taking the food we give them?
 

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Markw84

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@netjerk
I was aware that you live in Malaysia, and your climate is much more suited to tortoises. However, Indoors and in an enclosure with a MVB lamp above, there is no way the humidity is being maintained. Those bulbs are extremely desiccating and directly under a bulb is often 30%-40% lower humidity than "outside" Your tortoise does show that lack of constant humidity with the pyramiding it already has. Put a good digital temperature/hygrometer in there and see what the humidity actually is and adjust accordingly.

Have some plants in with your tortoise as they feel most secure when they can hide, pushed under a plant. that also will hold better humidity there under the plant.

I suggest trying to mix about 6 different greens. To get your tortoise eating, try to chop them up fairly small and mix it all together. Perhaps add some cucumber chopped up and mixed with the good greens as they will normally like that as a treat. The smell of the cucumber will be on everything and will often trigger the tortoise to eat. Soak the tortoise every day in warm water. Stars like warmer conditions. Soak him in water that is about 36° - 37°. have it deep enough to come up to just above where the marginal and costals meet. The heat and slightly deeper water should trigger better activity. I like to get them moving and exercising. That is not only good for their muscles and bones, but good for their digestion. I soak for at least 30 minutes. After the soak, I put them in front of their food. some will eat right away that way, but others may walk away, but with the increased activity often come back and start eating.

Don't just use 2 items. If you can find what the previous owner was feeding, use that, and then mix in the better greens - all chopped up together. You need to get your tortoise eating.

Please keep us updated.
 

netjerk

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@netjerk
I was aware that you live in Malaysia, and your climate is much more suited to tortoises. However, Indoors and in an enclosure with a MVB lamp above, there is no way the humidity is being maintained. Those bulbs are extremely desiccating and directly under a bulb is often 30%-40% lower humidity than "outside" Your tortoise does show that lack of constant humidity with the pyramiding it already has. Put a good digital temperature/hygrometer in there and see what the humidity actually is and adjust accordingly.

Have some plants in with your tortoise as they feel most secure when they can hide, pushed under a plant. that also will hold better humidity there under the plant.

I suggest trying to mix about 6 different greens. To get your tortoise eating, try to chop them up fairly small and mix it all together. Perhaps add some cucumber chopped up and mixed with the good greens as they will normally like that as a treat. The smell of the cucumber will be on everything and will often trigger the tortoise to eat. Soak the tortoise every day in warm water. Stars like warmer conditions. Soak him in water that is about 36° - 37°. have it deep enough to come up to just above where the marginal and costals meet. The heat and slightly deeper water should trigger better activity. I like to get them moving and exercising. That is not only good for their muscles and bones, but good for their digestion. I soak for at least 30 minutes. After the soak, I put them in front of their food. some will eat right away that way, but others may walk away, but with the increased activity often come back and start eating.

Don't just use 2 items. If you can find what the previous owner was feeding, use that, and then mix in the better greens - all chopped up together. You need to get your tortoise eating.

Please keep us updated.

Thanks Mark.
Will as per suggested, update here again soon
 

seanang168

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Hi, I just got my Star 2 weeks ago. Quite a tough time for me and the little one for the past 2 weeks. First with worm in poo and I bring him (I assume he is male) to vet for de-worming treatment. Then later he just don't want to eat the food I prepared. I was worry if he is not well internally hence bring him to do Xray. Vet confirmed bone are good and strong, no stone or blockage, no respiratory issue. The problem now he is still not eating and getting weaker. Need advise from fellow Star Owner.....

Attached in this post was the setup of his home with water dish, lamp, food area and lamp.

Below is the green I provide to him...

Choy sum is a leafy vegetable commonly used in Chinese cuisine. It is a member of the Brassica genus and the Brassicaceae family. Choy sum is a transliteration of the Cantonese name, which can be literally translated as "vegetable stem". Wikipedia
Scientific name: Brassica chinensis var. parachinensis
Choy-Sum.jpg


Sweet Potatoes Leaves
sweet-potato-leaves-1024x681.jpg


Above are suppose to be main diet, occasionally will add in small amount of Mulberry leaves and Hibiscus Flower.
Besides green, I added Mazuri pellet as supplement for him too.

I am familiar with Chye Sim. They do eat that. They also eat foods like xiao bak choy leaves, lady fingers and cucumbers. I also give carrots and tomato in moderation at times. I hope your baby can get better.

By the way I think that a basking lamp may not be required for climate in South East Asia. The temperature here is already hot enough. My two tortoises in fact always went into hiding during noon onwards instead of basking in the indirect sunlight they are getting.
 

netjerk

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I am familiar with Chye Sim. They do eat that. They also eat foods like xiao bak choy leaves, lady fingers and cucumbers. I also give carrots and tomato in moderation at times. I hope your baby can get better.

By the way I think that a basking lamp may not be required for climate in South East Asia. The temperature here is already hot enough. My two tortoises in fact always went into hiding during noon onwards instead of basking in the indirect sunlight they are getting.

Indoor the temperature could drop below 28 degC especially at night, I would suggest to get a lamp or CHE in case need it. Humidity is one thing I didn't get ready or never thought of, once my hygrometer is delivered will do a proper survey and make sure enough moist.
 

seanang168

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Indoor the temperature could drop below 28 degC especially at night, I would suggest to get a lamp or CHE in case need it. Humidity is one thing I didn't get ready or never thought of, once my hygrometer is delivered will do a proper survey and make sure enough moist.


I still dont think that a heater is needed in South East Asia climate. The land are pretty much warm up in the day. When night falls, the drop in temperature tends to be more of in the air rather than on the land. Just my view. My tortoises are already 20 years old without such a heater
 

netjerk

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I still dont think that a heater is needed in South East Asia climate. The land are pretty much warm up in the day. When night falls, the drop in temperature tends to be more of in the air rather than on the land. Just my view. My tortoises are already 20 years old without such a heater

Nothing is impossible, we have friend's tort with RNS. Better prepare when needed than sorry later, especially those who stay near the hill
 

Bellerina

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Congratulations on your new tortoise. I see you decided on a star over an aldabra. Can you please post a picture of the tortoise? Would love to see what you got.

Please allow me to go ahead and post a copy of a more detailed account of how and why I believe star tortoises should be kept. I think it will give you the answers you are looking for. Almost always, a young tortoise that is lethargic and not eating well, sleeping and hiding a lot is because of the way it is being kept and the environment that has been created for it in captivity. Here is everything you ever wanted to know about raising a star tortoise!!!


Stars, Leopards, and Sulcata tortoises are almost identical in care requirements, especially their first few years to get them started properly and thriving. These tortoises, their first few years, will fail to thrive and be active, unless you provide proper heat, humidity, and light.

Leopard and star hatchlings are amongst the more sensitive tortoise hatchlings to raise properly. I treat them the same. Both are also extremely prone to pyramiding if not kept very humid. They also need a lot of warmth. I always follow what I call the 80/80 rule for tortoises I refer to as "monsoon tortoises". I keep them at a minimum of 80°f and 80% relative humidity. I use the term monsoon, because most of the information out there for Leopards, Sulcatas, and Stars is outdated. It incorrectly assumes since they are from areas that get very dry and hot, they are a "desert" species. They are not. The have to hide and aestivate and wait out the drier seasons, and grow and thrive when the monsoons come. The monsoon season is what you want to duplicate in their housing.

To properly control heat and humidity, you will almost always have to go with a closed chamber. Open tortoise tables do not work and are extremely bad for these type tortoises. Humidity should always stay around 80% and temperatures should never drop below 80°f (27°C). They need a basking area where it is around 100°f (38°C). Daytime overall temps in the enclosure should be in the 27° - 32° range. A humid hide should be provided that holds humidity, provides security, and stays around 28° - 29° So even when living in a humid, tropical environment, the conditions inside of an open enclosure, inside a house, with proper basking lights – cannot create this constant, warm and high humidity that is preferred.

The best substrate I have found is orchid bark. Pet shops sell it as reptibark, but it is about 5 times more expensive if sold by a pet shop as opposed to going to a garden center and buying fine grade, pure, orchid bark. It holds moisture well, and will not mold. All my tortoises thrive no it. I put about 3" layer in the enclosure and dump about a gallon of water in and mix it all up so the bark is uniformly moist. That keeps the humidity up and simulates the conditions they would be actively growing in the wild. Never let the temps drop below 27°. Never use a heat pad, or heat from below.

To control heat and light you will need:

A UVB/UVA source. They need UVB exposure to properly manufacture vitamin D3 so they can utilize calcium they need for proper bone growth. Outside, full sun just a few hours a week will do this. If you live in a climate where regular outside time is going to be offered, you do not have to worry about buying a special UVB producing bulb. Keep In mind the sunlight must be unfiltered and not blocked by window glass, screen or plastic covers. Be sure to guard against overheating and provide shade as well. But you will still need good balanced lighting and proper heat and basking light and heat for the indoors enclosure. If regular natural unfiltered sunlight is not possible, you need to provide a UVB source. UVA is also critical for proper health and activity. It is a key trigger for activity, breeding, and feeding. Be sure you have both adequate UVA and UVB available. A Fluorescent tube is the best for this. Arcadia is a great brand popular in Europe. I use the T5 HO 12.0 46" bulb. (Some use a MVB (mercury vapor bulb) for both heat and UVB, but I find they are impossible to use in a properly enclosed chamber as they will overheat the enclosure. That is why the fluorescent tubes are by far the best choice. Also the MVB tend to stop putting out good UVB within 4-8 months by actual measurement.) The fluorescent tubes I use continue to provide good UVB for a few years. I always check UVB output with a solarmeter to ensure proper exposure.

A Basking area light. Your tortoise needs to be able to heat its core body temp up to properly metabolize food. A tortoise also needs to be able to heat their skin to allow for the metabolism of Pre-vitamin D to Vitamin D3. This happens primarily in the thinner skin on the backs of their legs which you will see them stretch out and expose while basking. This takes a few hours of basking time a week. Basking also stimulates activity. I use simple incandescent FLOOD bulbs. 50-65 watts is plenty, hung above the basking area adjusting height to get a temperature of 38°-39° directly below at tortoise shell height. Do not use a spot type bulb. They focus the heat in too narrow a place and will overly desiccate the carapace. I have my lights on a timer that is set for 14 hours a day of light, followed by 10 hours of complete darkness.

Night heat/overall temp control. You need to ensure the temp never drops below 27°. You want total darkness for proper night rest. I use a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) for this connected to a thermostat set for 27°. This will probably only kick on briefly at night as the lights will provide enough heat during the day. It will kick on if the enclosure temperature drops below 27° and back off once it reaches 28°. A CHE heats by emitting far-IR - which is a deeper heating, less desiccating type of IR heat. They emit no visible light. Do not use any type of incandescent "night light" like the red, or blue, or black night lights. Tortoises have much better color vision than humans, and can see wavelengths we cannot. They actually have 4 types of cones in their eye vs. humans who have only 3. Colors look much different to them, and are key triggers for activity,eating, circadian and circannual rhythms. Red lights are well within their vision and red triggers many eating choices. Blue is also very visible to them, in fact, they can see ultraviolet light that is invisible to us. Blue also is a key Circadian trigger. In addition to all this, all these incandescent night bulbs also emit far more near-IR than they do visible light. Near-IR is infrared radiation that is very close (near) the wavelength that is visible light. It is far more desiccating to the carapace of the tortoise, and maintaining proper carapace and keratin hydration is key to preventing pyramiding.

Always have clean drinking water available in a source big enough for the tortoise to get into and soak. I use the clay saucers that go under flower pots. They work perfectly.

Soak your tortoise in a bath of warm water daily for 30 minutes or so as much as possible. This is extremely important for overall health and hydration. Use an opaque tub he cannot see out of and ensure the water stays in the 30° to 38° range. I start with water that is about 38° and by the time it has cooled to 31° or so, your tortoise will probably have pooed in the water and it will need changing anyway. Your tortoise will normally poo in the bath water and this will actually dramatically reduce mess in the enclosure that would have to be picked out. Your tortoise will learn to stretch out and "bask" in the soak for a bit and then become quite active, like he is trying to get out. I like this as it is a valuable exercise time for him. Kind of my tortoise treadmill. Exercise is very important to overall health, muscle/bone development, and proper bowel movement (gastro-intestinal health).

These tortoises need room to roam. Exercise is an important key in proper growth and muscle/bone development. I start hatchlings in a 3' x 6' enclosure. That will work for their first 2 years. Once they hit about 16-20cm, I would go with a 3’ x 8’ enclosure as a minimum. They need a place they can feel secure. I always provide a hide for them. Some will use it, and others prefer hiding under a plant. I always include potted plants in the enclosure that are tortoise edible. I keep the plants in a 6-8” clay pot that they cannot tip over, not destroy the plant. I will space 3 – 5 plants throughout the enclosure. I let it grow and as it creates an overhang, it creates and ideal and natural hide for the tortoise. It creates sight barriers in the enclosure and makes it much more natural looking. As it grows further, it provides some food the tortoise can nibble on as it can reach the newer, longer growth. Best plants for this are tortoise safe, and do well in warm, humid, lower light situations. I use: Boston Fern, Pothos Ivy, Spider Plant, Aloe, Coleus, and Prayer Plant. The first 3 are the easiest to grow in an indoor enclosure. The others will work but sometimes need rotating to a better window sill for rejuvenation, then back in the enclosure.

An adult “monsoon” tortoises should be outside as much as weather will permit. A hatchling will do much better in a closed chamber like I've described, than they will do outside, even in "perfect" temperatures outside. I limit outside time for young tortoises to about 1 hour outside time per day max. for each 1" in overall length of your tortoise. So I will limit outside time to 3 hours max in a day for a tortoise that is 3" (8cm) long.

Food is obviously very important. Leopard and star tortoises are primarily leafy green, with some grass, eaters. Be careful to feed foods with proper calcium to phosphorus ratios. They need high fiber. They cannot digest, and it unbalances the gut chemistry, if you give them fruits. Keep it low protein. If you have to supplement with grocery greens go with endive, the darkest green parts of Romaine, green leaf, red leaf. If you can get opuntia cactus (prickley pear cactus) it is one of the best sources of calcium and a great food. Weeds are the best. Dandelion, mallow, plantain, thistle, filaree, sow thistle, milk thistle, wild mustard, colvers, chick weed, hawksbit, hensbit, cats ear, nettles. Lots of plants you can grow are also great foods. I grow as many edible plants as possible anywhere I need plants in my landscaping: Mulberry leaves, grape leaves, hibiscus leaves & flowers, Rose of Sharon, rose, gazanias, petunias, pansies, hostas, honeysuckle, geraniums, leaves and blooms from any squash/pumpkin/cucumber, most succulents like jade or aeonium. Grass is also great for fiber, so start adding a bit of fresh cut grass on top of the food. It may take a while, but they do learn to like it.

For ideas, here is a few pictures of my enclosure I use. I've also added a picture of a 9 month old leopard and 10 month old sulcata from my group I have kept back to show you how a properly raised tortoise should look. Follow the guidelines above and you will see similar results. Before you take advice from anyone on raising a tortoise, ask to see picture of their tortoises they raised to see if what they are proposing really works, and is not just repeated theories they have obtained online...

View attachment 212481

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View attachment 212483
This is extremely informative information that answered a lot of questions I had about my Indian Star! Super excited to apply some of to his maintanence and care!
 

Wolfen

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@Markw84

I have questions.

You recommended that I should keep them outdoors for few hours whenever temperatures are above 70°F and you said to keep them in a closed chamber to keep the humidity above 80%.

My question is how do I keep them in above 80% humidity when they are outside? I can't use a glass lid for my enclosure because the glass filters the sunlight. Can't have a open air enclosure because humidity escapes.

Also, does glass filter only sunlight or it filters out the necessary rays uvb light too? How about acrylic?
 

Markw84

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@Markw84

I have questions.

You recommended that I should keep them outdoors for few hours whenever temperatures are above 70°F and you said to keep them in a closed chamber to keep the humidity above 80%.

My question is how do I keep them in above 80% humidity when they are outside? I can't use a glass lid for my enclosure because the glass filters the sunlight. Can't have a open air enclosure because humidity escapes.

Also, does glass filter only sunlight or it filters out the necessary rays uvb light too? How about acrylic?

Good question - that is why they do best to limit the outdoor time - there is no way to control the humidity outdoors in an enclosure adequately. They seem to be too subject to desiccation outdoors as hatchlings. I do like the natural sunlight as long as shade is provided and care is taken so they cannot overheat. But I do limit this outside time.

Both glass and acrylic will block UVB. So you need unobstructed sunlight, but as mentioned, provide shade as a hatchling can overheat very easily and quickly in direct sun. Even in the edge of the shade, there is substantial indirect - reflected UVB. So a tortoise resting in the shade, but within a foot or so of direct sunight will still be getting UVB exposure.
 

Wolfen

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Good question - that is why they do best to limit the outdoor time - there is no way to control the humidity outdoors in an enclosure adequately. They seem to be too subject to desiccation outdoors as hatchlings. I do like the natural sunlight as long as shade is provided and care is taken so they cannot overheat. But I do limit this outside time.

Both glass and acrylic will block UVB. So you need unobstructed sunlight, but as mentioned, provide shade as a hatchling can overheat very easily and quickly in direct sun. Even in the edge of the shade, there is substantial indirect - reflected UVB. So a tortoise resting in the shade, but within a foot or so of direct sunight will still be getting UVB exposure.

Thank you for the reply.
Can we let it wonder outside when it's an adult?
How old should it be until it can stay in an outside enclosure with a heated area? I live near Los Angeles.
 

Wolfen

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Good question - that is why they do best to limit the outdoor time - there is no way to control the humidity outdoors in an enclosure adequately. They seem to be too subject to desiccation outdoors as hatchlings. I do like the natural sunlight as long as shade is provided and care is taken so they cannot overheat. But I do limit this outside time.

Both glass and acrylic will block UVB. So you need unobstructed sunlight, but as mentioned, provide shade as a hatchling can overheat very easily and quickly in direct sun. Even in the edge of the shade, there is substantial indirect - reflected UVB. So a tortoise resting in the shade, but within a foot or so of direct sunight will still be getting UVB exposure.

I found a 2ft x 4 ft tray with 7" high walls. I will get it if it's big enough but I'm out of ideas on how to make a lid for it :/
 

Markw84

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Thank you for the reply.
Can we let it wonder outside when it's an adult?
How old should it be until it can stay in an outside enclosure with a heated area? I live near Los Angeles.

What type of tortoise do you have? How big is it now? How long have you had it?

I found a 2ft x 4 ft tray with 7" high walls. I will get it if it's big enough but I'm out of ideas on how to make a lid for it :/

Are you talking about a temporary outdoor enclosure? Or is this for the indoor enclosure?
 

Wolfen

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What type of tortoise do you have? How big is it now? How long have you had it?

I don't have a tortoise yet but I'm going to get a sri lankan star tortoise. I'm gathering information on how to be a better tortoise parent


Are you talking about a temporary outdoor enclosure? Or is this for the indoor enclosure?

This is for indoors.
But I guess the walls won't be high enough if i add 3" substrate?
 

Markw84

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This is for indoors.
But I guess the walls won't be high enough if i add 3" substrate?
No, the walls are not high enough. You really should work on making / buying an enclosed chamber. Stars just do so much better with the controlled temps and humidity that will allow. There is just no way to accomplish that with an open topped enclosure.
 

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