Newbie needing answers (Tortoise doesn't move or eat)

Tavia

New Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2017
Messages
4
so I purchased a russian tort yesterday, set up its tank (20 gall), soaked it in lukewarm water for 10 mins & the temp is 76, & I also put new food in for it. I have a kit from petsmart that came w/ a 75W basking light & 1 UVB... im thinking it needs more light/heat possibly. (I also need to purchase a basking platform they were out at petsmart). He/she wont really move, and hasnt ate. How do I know if the tank is set up good enough to accommodate the torts needs? Im sure there isn't enough humidity & im not sure how to fix that! Im kinda over thinking bc its my first tort & I dont want to kill it on accident.

image.jpg
 

SarahChelonoidis

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2015
Messages
1,895
Location (City and/or State)
Toronto, Canada
They don't need a basking platform, but you do need a much hotter basking temperature. 76 would be a fine ambient temperature, but you need a spot 95-100F for the tortoise to heat up and digest.

A 20g tank isn't nearly large enough for a Russian to get the exercise it needs and it'll also be incredibly difficult to create the temperature gradient required. A much larger enclosure will be needed to adequately house your new tortoise.
 

Tavia

New Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2017
Messages
4
They don't need a basking platform, but you do need a much hotter basking temperature. 76 would be a fine ambient temperature, but you need a spot 95-100F for the tortoise to heat up and digest.

A 20g tank isn't nearly large enough for a Russian to get the exercise it needs and it'll also be incredibly difficult to create the temperature gradient required. A much larger enclosure will be needed to adequately house your new tortoise.

Should I get a new tank like asap-what size do you recommend? & also im having a hard time getting it humid in there, any ideas?
 

Yvonne G

Old Timer
TFO Admin
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 23, 2008
Messages
93,390
Location (City and/or State)
Clovis, CA
Hi Tavia, and welcome to the Forum!

Unfortunately, you've fallen prey to bad advice from the pet store. Here are some helpful tips for you:

Diet:

Russian Tortoises are grazers and enjoy broad leaf plants. The best diet is a variety of weeds (leaves and flowers). Dandelion is a favorite. For detailed diet information:http://www.russiantortoise.org/russiantortoisediet.htm for a list of edible plants:http://www.russiantortoise.org/edible_plants.htm and http://www.russiantortoise.org/plant_photos.htm

Aquariums: Aquariums are often recommended by pet shop employees. However, they are unsuitable for tortoises. Because of the shape (too tall and narrow) air circulation is poor. They are also hard to keep at the proper temperatures. They are heavy and hard to clean The clear sides are also stressful to the tortoise. They don't understand the concept of glass and will continually try to go through it. If you must use an aquarium, the minimum size is 75 gallon. It must be fitted with a circulating fan and a visual barrier.

Rubbermaid storage containers: These are an inexpensive indoor pen. The 50 gallon container is an ideal starting point for one tortoise. They are light and easy to clean. They are opaque so the animal can't see out. The best part is....they only cost $15 ! Keep in mind that bigger is better. I use this as a temporary set up for when I have to keep one inside. IMPORTANT: this setup keeps the humidity at around 60%. As the substrate dries out it is critical to add water. Don't let it get dry and dusty !!! Sand alone makes a very poor substrate. Click on the picture to view it full size RubberMaid Start with a 50 gallon storage container.



A simple pen made from a Rubbermaid™ storage bin



RubberMaid™: Start with a 50 gallon storage container.







coir.jpg

coir brick

Soak it in a gallon of hot water
until fully expanded.


One "brick" of coir (about 2" deep)

Basking light: This is a heavy duty clamp light with a ceramic socket. Notice the use of an additional clamp for safety. The bulb is a 100 watt Zoo Med Powersun.

The end product.






Reptariums
: The 100 gallon and larger reptariums make great pens. . They have great ventilation.

Build your own: This is by far the most versatile way to go if you plan on keeping the tortoise indoors. A popular choice is the Tortoise Table

Outdoor pens: Outdoor pens are by far the best option. The tortoises get the benefit of sunshine (for the synthesis of Vit D3) and exercise. A pen can also be planted with a variety of edible weeds and plants (edible landscaping). It is very important to keep in mind that Russians are escape artist. When building a pen a barrier must be dug around the perimeter at least 8" deep...deeper if the soil is easy to dig. They are amazing climbers. The pen should be a foot high with an in facing lip. Pay special attention to corners. Also of concern is predators. Raccoons are particularly notorious for getting into pens and eating turtles.

It is also important to provide a warm dry retreat. I have done this by using a Rubbermaid deck box. I mounted a ceramic heat emitter in the lid (hooked up to a thermostat) and cut a hole in the side. My Russians use this instead of digging a burrow. Deck Box Photos


Humidity: H
umidity is an important consideration with Russian tortoises. It is also very misunderstood. There are those that claim that high humidity will cause shell rot and respiratory infection. This is only partially true. High humidity, damp substrate AND cool temperatures cause problems. In the wild they live in fairly arid conditions although I have read some reports that they are often found near streams and small lakes. They cope with low humidity by digging long burrows where the humidity is as high as 70%.

In the typical indoor pen, with basking lights, air conditioning and dry substrates, humidity is often extremely low. Dehydration is a very real risk. When I must keep mine indoors I soak them at least weekly in chin deep....luke warm water. When kept outdoors, I keep clean water in the pens at all times (though I rarely see them drink). I also give them a very dry "house" and water the opposite side of the pen. This way they have a choice of micro-climates.

Lighting: Currently the best lighting is the Zoo Med Powersun . These are used extensively in zoo's. The 100 watt flood is the most commonly used. While they do put out heat you may need to add a ceramic heat emitter to get the right temperature. Also make sure to get a good clamp on light fixture with a ceramic socket that is rated for the wattage bulb you buy. The preferred fixture is the deep dome lamp fixture by Flukers or Zoo Med'

An alternative is the Reptisun 10.0 straight tube. But since it doesn't give off heat you will also need a basking light such as the ESU Reptile Basking Spot BrightLight Incandescent Bulbs. Keep in mind that these bulbs should be replaced every 6 months.

There are many other bulbs out there. There is a basking light that provides UVA. But this doesn't have the UVB. There are colored bulbs...again no UVB. If it doesn't specifically say "UVB" it doesn't have it.

Keep the lights on 12-14 hours a day.

Hibernation: Hibernation is a much debated topic. In the wild Russian tortoises hibernate up to 9 months of the year. In captivity they appear to benefit from as little as 8 weeks in hibernation.

Before considering hibernation, its important that you are absolutely sure its in good health. Have it checked by a vet and be sure to check for parasites. If there are parasites, or the animal is too light.....then don't attempt hibernation. There are many that I have talked to that don't hibernate there animals and haven't observed any negative consequences. I did not hibernate mine for the first 5 years. Its really not worth the risk if you are unsure of what you are doing.



I copied this information from Joe Heinen's site - russiantortoise.org. You can go there to read a more detailed description.
 

Yvonne G

Old Timer
TFO Admin
10 Year Member!
Platinum Tortoise Club
Joined
Jan 23, 2008
Messages
93,390
Location (City and/or State)
Clovis, CA
I'm sorry - I neglected to answer your question.

Your tortoise is scared. They are territorial and he's been yanked out of his territory (the pet store) and plunked down someplace new. He's not sure he's safe, and there's no place for him to hide, so he just sits still hoping any big bad boogie man doesn't notice him there. Give him a couple weeks and a hiding place, and he should settle down and realize you're not going to hurt him.
 

Tavia

New Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2017
Messages
4
Update: I got another light & ceramic emitter. Going to set up rubbermaid tub on friday when I get paid. Syd(russian tort) is finally warming up! Which makes me a little less worried now. Hes eating the heck out of his kale, peed for the first time & moving around! Is there a such thing as too much food? Hes eating a lot & i dont want to overfeed but i feel like hes reaaal hungry. Heres a pic of him
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0479.JPG
    IMG_0479.JPG
    1.4 MB · Views: 21

Gillian M

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2014
Messages
15,417
Location (City and/or State)
Jordan
A warm welcome to the forum, @Tavia .

Do not panic: you'll hopefully get the help you need with your cute tort, here.
 

Tidgy's Dad

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2015
Messages
48,236
Location (City and/or State)
Fes, Morocco
Update: I got another light & ceramic emitter. Going to set up rubbermaid tub on friday when I get paid. Syd(russian tort) is finally warming up! Which makes me a little less worried now. Hes eating the heck out of his kale, peed for the first time & moving around! Is there a such thing as too much food? Hes eating a lot & i dont want to overfeed but i feel like hes reaaal hungry. Heres a pic of him
As long as he's got room to exercise he won't overeat.
Put in the food for the day in the morning and if it's all gone by evening it wasn't enough.
If there's some left it was fine.
 

Tavia

New Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2017
Messages
4
As long as he's got room to exercise he won't overeat.
Put in the food for the day in the morning and if it's all gone by evening it wasn't enough.
If there's some left it was fine.
Well hes only eating the kale. So i put more kale in for him. But the zoo med pellets i bought so that he get all the nutrients he doesnt eat much of. Just nibbles a bit.
 

Tidgy's Dad

Well-Known Member
5 Year Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2015
Messages
48,236
Location (City and/or State)
Fes, Morocco
It's good that he's eating something. Some don't eat for days or weeks in a new home.
Give him time and a nice variety and he'll come round once he's adjusted.
 
Top