Newbie needs help with rescue Russian Tortoise Los Angeles

SinLA

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Hello I am hoping for advice from the experts here.

I am a long-term dog/cat rescuer, but no experience with reptiles, tho I have a neighbor with a rescue desert tortoise and always thought if the circumstance presented itself I would consider getting a tortoise myself. welp, I was recently contacted by a friend who had an elderly neighbor who needed to find homes for their woefully neglected tortoises. They were living wild in their backyard in Culver City, an area of Los Angeles. It was two Russian tortoises and a red foot. The Russians were originally acquired from a pet store I’m not sure where they got the red foot. They got them about three years ago, though I don’t have much more information than that. They‘ve had very little care in the last 6-10 months - no external heat, and just Spring mix greens and veggies occasionally tossed their way, plus wet dog food for the red foot. One of the Russians “disappeared”. Long story short, we got the owner to agree to give them up, and thru networking I got a great home right away for the red foot with an experienced owner.

I have taken in the Russian (about 4.5” long male) and I would very much like to give him a successful home and have done a lot of research but I am still struggling with creating the best solution for him. I’ve had him a couple of days now and until I can get a proper set up built he is in a commercial tortoise box (24”x40”) in my insulated garage. I have both a heat lamp and a UV lamp, but the cage also gets direct sunlight if I open up my garage door during the day. So far he seems to hate sunlight, always moves out of the sun into the hide area. I live in the Valley so I know it can get hot, but at the moment when he has access to sunlight it’s morning light and not very hot, even in direct sun 70s or 80s at most, but definitely hotter than the area of LA he used to live in. But nothing near the high temperatures he’s “supposed” to want to bask in. He does sit under the heat lamp tho, which is about 78-80 degrees. So I don’t know if im cooking him, or he just needs to adjust to a warmer climate than he’s used to.

Second, he definitely has not adjusted to the transition well, which as you can imagine was traumatic for him. He was SUPER stressed on the drive, apparently. Going crazy frenetic, pooping a ton, even bubbling at the mouth at one point. Now he’s not OVERTLY stressed, but He seems pretty grumpy, not very active, he’s eating a little bit, but not much. I think he is clearly missing his large garden. I know the space he is in currently is too small for him permanently, that said, I don’t know how long he can live in this small enclosure until I get something larger built for him (any advice on how long he can be in this smaller space is appreciated.)

I did bring him by my vet - who is NOT an exotic vet - but has some tortoise clients , he said he seemed overall healthy, but again not an expert. i think if he was in very poor health my vet would have seen it. I can’t say that means he’s he great healthy but I don’t think he’s in bad shape. (We did send a poop sample to the lab, waiting on results).

I have a couple of options for where to build him an enclosure, but I keep second guessing myself as to if it’s too hot and sunny… he’s never going to have a “giant” garden free reign with me as it’s not safe from predators, but I could give him a good 4x8’ “tortoise table” outside that would be super sunny (too sunny, too hot??) but enclosed from Predators; or walled in garden section on natural grass/lawn, but without as much sun and mostly not enclosed from the top. I had been thinking sun was better, but maybe not… maybe that’s too hot? also I’m not sure how long it will take before I can get the new space built.

In sum, I want to make sure I’m not causing him true harm in his current situation. I’d hate myself if I’m the cause of him dying a slow death from my ignorance.

any advice or suggestions would be appreciated!

-E
 

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Tom

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Hello I am hoping for advice from the experts here.

I am a long-term dog/cat rescuer, but no experience with reptiles, tho I have a neighbor with a rescue desert tortoise and always thought if the circumstance presented itself I would consider getting a tortoise myself. welp, I was recently contacted by a friend who had an elderly neighbor who needed to find homes for their woefully neglected tortoises. They were living wild in their backyard in Culver City, an area of Los Angeles. It was two Russian tortoises and a red foot. The Russians were originally acquired from a pet store I’m not sure where they got the red foot. They got them about three years ago, though I don’t have much more information than that. They‘ve had very little care in the last 6-10 months - no external heat, and just Spring mix greens and veggies occasionally tossed their way, plus wet dog food for the red foot. One of the Russians “disappeared”. Long story short, we got the owner to agree to give them up, and thru networking I got a great home right away for the red foot with an experienced owner.

I have taken in the Russian (about 4.5” long male) and I would very much like to give him a successful home and have done a lot of research but I am still struggling with creating the best solution for him. I’ve had him a couple of days now and until I can get a proper set up built he is in a commercial tortoise box (24”x40”) in my insulated garage. I have both a heat lamp and a UV lamp, but the cage also gets direct sunlight if I open up my garage door during the day. So far he seems to hate sunlight, always moves out of the sun into the hide area. I live in the Valley so I know it can get hot, but at the moment when he has access to sunlight it’s morning light and not very hot, even in direct sun 70s or 80s at most, but definitely hotter than the area of LA he used to live in. But nothing near the high temperatures he’s “supposed” to want to bask in. He does sit under the heat lamp tho, which is about 78-80 degrees. So I don’t know if im cooking him, or he just needs to adjust to a warmer climate than he’s used to.

Second, he definitely has not adjusted to the transition well, which as you can imagine was traumatic for him. He was SUPER stressed on the drive, apparently. Going crazy frenetic, pooping a ton, even bubbling at the mouth at one point. Now he’s not OVERTLY stressed, but He seems pretty grumpy, not very active, he’s eating a little bit, but not much. I think he is clearly missing his large garden. I know the space he is in currently is too small for him permanently, that said, I don’t know how long he can live in this small enclosure until I get something larger built for him (any advice on how long he can be in this smaller space is appreciated.)

I did bring him by my vet - who is NOT an exotic vet - but has some tortoise clients , he said he seemed overall healthy, but again not an expert. i think if he was in very poor health my vet would have seen it. I can’t say that means he’s he great healthy but I don’t think he’s in bad shape. (We did send a poop sample to the lab, waiting on results).

I have a couple of options for where to build him an enclosure, but I keep second guessing myself as to if it’s too hot and sunny… he’s never going to have a “giant” garden free reign with me as it’s not safe from predators, but I could give him a good 4x8’ “tortoise table” outside that would be super sunny (too sunny, too hot??) but enclosed from Predators; or walled in garden section on natural grass/lawn, but without as much sun and mostly not enclosed from the top. I had been thinking sun was better, but maybe not… maybe that’s too hot? also I’m not sure how long it will take before I can get the new space built.

In sum, I want to make sure I’m not causing him true harm in his current situation. I’d hate myself if I’m the cause of him dying a slow death from my ignorance.

any advice or suggestions would be appreciated!

-E
Hello and welcome. These guys come from a very extreme environment, so your area is much better for them than cold clammy Culver City. I'm just north of you in SCV. My climate is even better than yours for torts! Its warmer up here and the June Gloom/May Gray stops in Sylmar at the 5/14 split. We get loads of sunshine while you guys are still under that marine layer.

Most of the info you find while doing "research" will be old out-dated and wrong. The same old wrong info gets repeated over and over on every site too. Its bad out there. Your little guy can live outside full time with a temperature controlled shelter and you can/should brumate him in the winter.

Here is the correct care info, and questions are welcome:
 

SinLA

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Here are photos of his current setup. The grey tray is for food/climbing, the yellow one is for water. It’s very shallow…
 

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SinLA

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Hello and welcome. These guys come from a very extreme environment, so your area is much better for them than cold clammy Culver City. I'm just north of you in SCV. My climate is even better than yours for torts! Its warmer up here and the June Gloom/May Gray stops in Sylmar at the 5/14 split. We get loads of sunshine while you guys are still under that marine layer.

Most of the info you find while doing "research" will be old out-dated and wrong. The same old wrong info gets repeated over and over on every site too. Its bad out there. Your little guy can live outside full time with a temperature controlled shelter and you can/should brumate him in the winter.

Here is the correct care info, and questions are welcome:
Thanks! That’s a great article, I did a first pass but will dive in more deeply. Ok specific questions:

1) how long can he live in the current setup (see pics), until I can get a proper space built for him? Days? Weeks? I’m hoping to get something built but it could be a month or even two…

2) is space in direct sun for a good chunk of the summer too hot? Ill of course provide shade and humid hides, but is it possible to be too hot? Talking an 8x4’ table ish…

3) if I build an enclosure on the grass w/ tall walls (1.5-2’ or more) can he be out during the day and enclosed at night, or is the daytime risk of predators froabove (hawks/racoons/coyote) too great? I’m in the flats of burbank, not the hills…we have some Coyotes during the day, but (sadly) I’d think outdoor cats more their cup of tea.

4) how long should I figure he’ll need adjust to the transition? Days? Weeks?

5) how long of no eating before I should be worried?

thanks!!!
 

Tom

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Thanks! That’s a great article, I did a first pass but will dive in more deeply. Ok specific questions:

1) how long can he live in the current setup (see pics), until I can get a proper space built for him? Days? Weeks? I’m hoping to get something built but it could be a month or even two…

2) is space in direct sun for a good chunk of the summer too hot? Ill of course provide shade and humid hides, but is it possible to be too hot? Talking an 8x4’ table ish…

3) if I build an enclosure on the grass w/ tall walls (1.5-2’ or more) can he be out during the day and enclosed at night, or is the daytime risk of predators froabove (hawks/racoons/coyote) too great? I’m in the flats of burbank, not the hills…we have some Coyotes during the day, but (sadly) I’d think outdoor cats more their cup of tea.

4) how long should I figure he’ll need adjust to the transition? Days? Weeks?

5) how long of no eating before I should be worried?

thanks!!!
1. He can live in that for a little while, but its much too small for the long term. A simple large outdoor enclosure will mitigate the effects of the small indoor enclosure too. You could get one of those 8 or 10 foot round horse watering troughs. Safe, escape proof, and easy.
2. Only your thermometer can answer that. Tables are for indoor use. Outdoors, let him live on the ground. Its cooler that way, and you can make an underground retreat for those really hot summer days.
3. Walls only need to be around 16 inches tall, but cap them with overhanging 2x4s or something, and cap the corners. Lay pavers around the inside walls to prevent digging out. Daytime should be fine. Using the night house described in the thread will provide shelter from nocturnal predators and from the elements too.
4. Weeks or months.
5. Soak daily and keep offering food. The appetite will come back. The tiny enclosure isn't helping. Also, about the enclosure, turn off that cfl UV bulb. Those sometimes burn their eyes, and they are not effective UV sources anyway. The clamps on your clamp lamps always fail. This can literally burn your whole house down. Fasten those clamps in place with bailing wire and screws, or something like that. Its best to ditch the clamps entirely and simply and the bulbs from over head. This way they can be easily adjusted up or down to get the right temperatures under them. Its much safer too.

This is a lot to take in. Remember to breathe. You'll get it all figured out, and we are happy to help you along the way.
 

SinLA

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1. He can live in that for a little while, but its much too small for the long term. A simple large outdoor enclosure will mitigate the effects of the small indoor enclosure too. You could get one of those 8 or 10 foot round horse watering troughs. Safe, escape proof, and easy.
2. Only your thermometer can answer that. Tables are for indoor use. Outdoors, let him live on the ground. Its cooler that way, and you can make an underground retreat for those really hot summer days.
3. Walls only need to be around 16 inches tall, but cap them with overhanging 2x4s or something, and cap the corners. Lay pavers around the inside walls to prevent digging out. Daytime should be fine. Using the night house described in the thread will provide shelter from nocturnal predators and from the elements too.
4. Weeks or months.
5. Soak daily and keep offering food. The appetite will come back. The tiny enclosure isn't helping. Also, about the enclosure, turn off that cfl UV bulb. Those sometimes burn their eyes, and they are not effective UV sources anyway. The clamps on your clamp lamps always fail. This can literally burn your whole house down. Fasten those clamps in place with bailing wire and screws, or something like that. Its best to ditch the clamps entirely and simply and the bulbs from over head. This way they can be easily adjusted up or down to get the right temperatures under them. Its much safer too.

This is a lot to take in. Remember to breathe. You'll get it all figured out, and we are happy to help you along the way.
Thanks Tom, super helpful! Construction on the enclosure begins Saturday so hopefully by Monday I’ll have walls ready to go. 10’ x 12’ approximately, going about 2’ high walls with an interior lip (taller than needed but I want to be sure my little dogs can’t jump in). Going to take your advice on the stones at the base, but also put the boards underground.

I saw your night box, what are you using for electrical and heat? Is it a self contained battery? I couldn’t tell…

He did eat today so that’s good. I haven’t soaked him yet (nervous to try). Is there a particularly good time of day to do that (morning, or afternoon when hottest, or before going to bed)?

He will have to stay mostly in his current box until Wednesday so hopefully he can hold out that long without suffering consequences…
 

Tom

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I saw your night box, what are you using for electrical and heat? Is it a self contained battery? I couldn’t tell…
Heavy gauge extension cord. I like to bury the cords and run them in conduit up the side of the box.

Is there a particularly good time of day to do that (morning, or afternoon when hottest, or before going to bed)?
Try different times, but usually they like a warm soak early in the morning when they have not yet warmed up.

Be aware that if he isn't used to being soaked he may freak out. Russians have a habit of acting like you've dropped them in a vat of acid when you soak them. As hard as it may be, just ignore that. They get used to it. I've had some that took weeks to get used to it, but then they spent years enjoying it once they realized they were not dying. Hopefully yours won't act like that, but don't worry if it does. This is just one of those weird Russian tortoise quirks that I see sometimes. Besides, all that scrambling is good exercise. The soaking tub is AKA "the tortoise treadmill".
 

SinLA

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@Tom can you explain to me the thermostat/heating process for the house? So I would get a thermostat that would turn on/off the heating element based on what temperature I set, correct? Any you recommend? I saw a link in one post but the link didn't work aymore. Its going to be a fairly small house so was hoping it could be bulb based vs oil heater... thoughts?
 

Tom

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@Tom can you explain to me the thermostat/heating process for the house? So I would get a thermostat that would turn on/off the heating element based on what temperature I set, correct? Any you recommend? I saw a link in one post but the link didn't work aymore. Its going to be a fairly small house so was hoping it could be bulb based vs oil heater... thoughts?
You've got it. Here is a simple one that I currently use. I have several of these going at my ranch right now:
https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108°F/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=reptile+thermostat&qid=1650574846&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMTNaODVYV0pBQktDJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTM4NTUwSUE1NzUwRjRLMTE0JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwODI1MzAyUFBLVEVOM1BMSzY1JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

You plug the thermostat into the wall or extension cord, set the temp on the thermostat, and then plug your heating element into the receptacle on the thermostat. Put the thermostat's probe on the far end away from any heat sources. Then use a separate digital thermometer or two to fine tune the thermostat. Sometimes the cheap thermostats are not accurate about the temperature, but they still hold a steady temp just fine. That is why we use a separate thermometer or two to verify the temp and adjust if needed. So if you set the thermostat to 65, and the actual temperature on your thermometer is only 60 after a few hours, then up the thermostat a few degrees and check again.

For a smaller house, I'd recommend a RHP. Radiant heat panel. A CHE can work too since the tortoise is so small. The heat source and thermostat is not meant to keep the house "warm", just not too cold. We get cold nights here, and when its not time to brumate, I like to keep the night temp around 60-65. Most days they can then use the sun to warm up, but on cold days, I like to have the heat lamp on a timer for them.
 

SinLA

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You've got it. Here is a simple one that I currently use. I have several of these going at my ranch right now:
https://www.amazon.com/Century-Thermostat-Controller-Germination-40-108°F/dp/B01I15S6OM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=reptile+thermostat&qid=1650574846&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMTNaODVYV0pBQktDJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTM4NTUwSUE1NzUwRjRLMTE0JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwODI1MzAyUFBLVEVOM1BMSzY1JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

You plug the thermostat into the wall or extension cord, set the temp on the thermostat, and then plug your heating element into the receptacle on the thermostat. Put the thermostat's probe on the far end away from any heat sources. Then use a separate digital thermometer or two to fine tune the thermostat. Sometimes the cheap thermostats are not accurate about the temperature, but they still hold a steady temp just fine. That is why we use a separate thermometer or two to verify the temp and adjust if needed. So if you set the thermostat to 65, and the actual temperature on your thermometer is only 60 after a few hours, then up the thermostat a few degrees and check again.

For a smaller house, I'd recommend a RHP. Radiant heat panel. A CHE can work too since the tortoise is so small. The heat source and thermostat is not meant to keep the house "warm", just not too cold. We get cold nights here, and when its not time to brumate, I like to keep the night temp around 60-65. Most days they can then use the sun to warm up, but on cold days, I like to have the heat lamp on a timer for them.

@Tom do you think this would work:

I inherited this box with him: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00167S5EY/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20.

What if I:

1) covered the screen top into a solid surface
2) put a door in the side for coming & going
3) Into that "long" part put a panel heater like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08J7Y1T2S/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
or
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Z0B52Y/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 (which I actually could put on TOP of the screen but not sure if it would issue enough heat that way

or??
 

Tom

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@Tom do you think this would work:

I inherited this box with him: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00167S5EY/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20.

What if I:

1) covered the screen top into a solid surface
2) put a door in the side for coming & going
3) Into that "long" part put a panel heater like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08J7Y1T2S/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
or
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003Z0B52Y/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20 (which I actually could put on TOP of the screen but not sure if it would issue enough heat that way

or??
That box is too thin and flimsy. You need some insulation for this to work.

I have no experience with the first wire heater link, but it might work. Only your thermometer can tell you.

I would not use the ZooMed mat for this application under a small tort, and those don't work well over head or on the sides.
 

SinLA

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Hmmm, maybe if I use that box as an inner frame and put that in a larger box or plastic tub with insulation between.... I could also look at dog houses...
 

Tom

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Hmmm, maybe if I use that box as an inner frame and put that in a larger box or plastic tub with insulation between.... I could also look at dog houses...
I've not found anything that can be bought at a store that works. I've tried all sorts of things. You have to build it, or have it built.
 

SinLA

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@Tom the walls are up! It will take a few weeks to get his night box and the innards sorted.

It’s not dig- or predator-proof yet, but he’s getting supervised spins for a bit and at least can get out of his current garage box!
 

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