Outdoor heated tortoise house - hinges for heavy lid

[Tortoisechickenlady]

Hi all! Thanks to the wonderful posts on this forum, I had a 4x8 tortoise box built for my Leopard Tortoise. (Apparently I read wrong and didn't realize I could probably have gotten away with a 4x4 instead, but oh well) :/

Anyways, the lid is incredibly heavy. I know in some posts, Tom recommends using 2x2s on the lid and I totally recommend this!!! But the person that built mine used 4x2s and I am looking for hinge ideas to make the top easier to open and prop up. The top is probably min. 75 lbs.. Does anyone have a suggestion on what to use? I found these on amazon.. has anyone used them?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LGX6HVL/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

Also aside from the oil filled heater, do I need to add any other lights/heat if my tort will have access to outside in addition to the heated house? We are in Greenville SC so our winters are cold but not terrible. THANK YOU!

 

[Tom]

Don't forget the weather stripping and the door flaps.

What species is this for? What size tortoise?

The heater protecting wall should be a little taller. A tortoise stuck inside this box on a cold winter day might get ansty and start "re-decorating"...

Others have used those gas struts before, but you need something more substantial than plywood to attach each end to.

 

[Tortoisechickenlady]

20 lb Leopard tort.. And yes, I'm still working on tweaks.. I have Pond Shield to seal it with and will add flaps. I also plan to adjust the heater area b/c I agree, not tall enough.. What do you recommend using to attach the struts? Do you think I need to add a UV light?

 

[Levi the Leopard]

Hey there, that box looks wonderful. I have a 25lb leopard and went with the 4x4 size. Trust me, you'll be glad you went 8x4!

I DO have a light in my box. Not for heat or UV...just an LED bulb to illuminate the inside for him during cold winter days. My tortoise door is open to the yard every day, all year long, even when it snows. BUT he doesn't always come out. On days he stays in, I have the light on and feed him "breakfast in bed".
Right now my light is manual on/off but next time, it'll be on a timer.
*FYI When I lived in SoCal, I did not have a light because the weather is great all year long.

My radiator barrier is a 2x6 and is mostly untouched by Levi. Unless, I don't open his door (even on snowy days). Those are the only times he gets antsy and moves it about. I was hesitant to go higher and block out all the heat. Or trap the heat in the smaller box. However, I have planned that my next box/shed will have the heated radiator behind wood bars (think like a baby crib) so that it's fully protected yet has plenty of air space around it. I'll be jealous if you get to that first!

 

[Levi the Leopard]

forgot to add, regarding the hinges:

A friend here also had an 8x4 of Tom's box built for her. She is older and couldn't lift the lid very well so her contractor designed a pully system. She pulls on a rope and up the lid goes! I do not know all the specs that went into that, nor do I think it looks very nice BUT it works great for her. Opens easily and she's happy. So there are options.

 

[Yvonne G]

You can buy those pneumatic thingeys like what opens the back door on certain types of SUVs. Do a google search for pneumatic hinge

 

[Tortoisechickenlady]

Thanks everyone! I love this community

 

[Tortoisechickenlady]

Hey there, that box looks wonderful. I have a 25lb leopard and went with the 4x4 size. Trust me, you'll be glad you went 8x4!

I DO have a light in my box. Not for heat or UV...just an LED bulb to illuminate the inside for him during cold winter days. My tortoise door is open to the yard every day, all year long, even when it snows. BUT he doesn't always come out. On days he stays in, I have the light on and feed him "breakfast in bed".
Right now my light is manual on/off but next time, it'll be on a timer.
*FYI When I lived in SoCal, I did not have a light because the weather is great all year long.

My radiator barrier is a 2x6 and is mostly untouched by Levi. Unless, I don't open his door (even on snowy days). Those are the only times he gets antsy and moves it about. I was hesitant to go higher and block out all the heat. Or trap the heat in the smaller box. However, I have planned that my next box/shed will have the heated radiator behind wood bars (think like a baby crib) so that it's fully protected yet has plenty of air space around it. I'll be jealous if you get to that first!

Great idea about the wood bars & light - thank you!

 

[Skunkworks]

The way the Lid is designed it will be hard to find a hinge other than a European hinge to fit. I would flush the backside Lid to the wall and install a Piano hinge with Hood/Struts on both sides.

 

[Tom]

What do you recommend using to attach the struts? Do you think I need to add a UV light?

There has to be a support beam, like a 2x4, inside the wall to attach those struts to. Whoever built your box will know where a good attachment point is, if there is one. Then you have to work out the physics of how strong are they, vs. the leverage attained at the attachment points, etc...

I love the @Team Gomberg suggestion of an over head rope/pulley system. That is genius if you can make it work.

You do not need UV for a tortoise that lives outside. Its not a bad idea to install a basking lamp on a timer and LEDs for light for those cold winter days when he might not be venturing out. I have done that for my stars and on most of my new boxes now. I have the radiant oil heater to maintain ambient temps where I want them, and then when we get those cold winter spells that can last a week or two, the the timer for the basking lamps kicks on and allows them to warm up above the ambient temp, and the bulbs also raise the ambient temp in the whole box a bit during the course of the day, which is good. At the end of the day, the timer kicks the basking bulbs off, and then the temperature in the box drops back down until the radiant oil heater thermostat kicks back on. I don't use these heat lamps most of each year. Just periodically in winter for some extra help on cold overcast days.

Just be sure to check the temperature under the basking bulb at tortoise shell height, including substrate if you use any. Its far too easy to damage the carapace of larger tortoises with heat lamps. I won't use them at all in boxes for sulcatas, large adult SA leopards, or any other giant species, but I do use them in colder weather for some of my smaller species.

Here is one of my star boxes:

 

[Julie Anne]

Hi all! Thanks to the wonderful posts on this forum, I had a 4x8 tortoise box built for my Leopard Tortoise. (Apparently I read wrong and didn't realize I could probably have gotten away with a 4x4 instead, but oh well) :/

Anyways, the lid is incredibly heavy. I know in some posts, Tom recommends using 2x2s on the lid and I totally recommend this!!! But the person that built mine used 4x2s and I am looking for hinge ideas to make the top easier to open and prop up. The top is probably min. 75 lbs.. Does anyone have a suggestion on what to use? I found these on amazon.. has anyone used them?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LGX6HVL/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

Also aside from the oil filled heater, do I need to add any other lights/heat if my tort will have access to outside in addition to the heated house? We are in Greenville SC so our winters are cold but not terrible. THANK YOU!
View attachment 350240

That is an absolutely beautiful home. You were smart to do it 4 x 8 they do grow and you won’t have to build another one for a long time. Sure wish I had the talent to build something like that

 

[Tonyo]

Hi all! Thanks to the wonderful posts on this forum, I had a 4x8 tortoise box built for my Leopard Tortoise. (Apparently I read wrong and didn't realize I could probably have gotten away with a 4x4 instead, but oh well) :/

Anyways, the lid is incredibly heavy. I know in some posts, Tom recommends using 2x2s on the lid and I totally recommend this!!! But the person that built mine used 4x2s and I am looking for hinge ideas to make the top easier to open and prop up. The top is probably min. 75 lbs.. Does anyone have a suggestion on what to use? I found these on amazon.. has anyone used them?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07LGX6HVL/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20

Also aside from the oil filled heater, do I need to add any other lights/heat if my tort will have access to outside in addition to the heated house? We are in Greenville SC so our winters are cold but not terrible. THANK YOU!
View attachment 350240

 

[Tonyo]

Can’t you put a pulley with rope through it attached to fence both corners

 

[Tortoisechickenlady]

Hi all. I was able to get hinges attached to the top! Now I have another question for you all...

What temperature should the mini oil filled heater be set on? I have a wireless thermostat in it but I am so nervous about "roasting" my guy.. I really don't like the idea of locking the door but I think I'll have to get over that since it's been REALLY cold the past 2 nights... (32 degrees). Where is the best place to sit the thermostat for a proper reading?

Suggestions would be very welcome. thanks!

 

[Tom]

Hi all. I was able to get hinges attached to the top! Now I have another question for you all...

What temperature should the mini oil filled heater be set on? I have a wireless thermostat in it but I am so nervous about "roasting" my guy.. I really don't like the idea of locking the door but I think I'll have to get over that since it's been REALLY cold the past 2 nights... (32 degrees). Where is the best place to sit the thermostat for a proper reading?

Suggestions would be very welcome. thanks!

I just typed up answers to this and more related stuff yesterday. Read this thread for the full explanation:

Radiator Oil Filled Heater Help

I'm looking for advice on what radiator oil filled heater to get for Reggie's room. Our plan was to heat the room during the day with the heater, set the timer to turn it off at night, and heat only the hide at night with a radiant heat panel. The timer would turn the heater back on in the...

tortoiseforum.org

The short answers to your questions:
1. The mini oil heater should be set all the way up, and your thermostat set to 80ish in spring and fall when days are warm and sunny, but nights are cold. Set the thermostat to 86 in winter. I don't know what your summers are like, but with your humidity, I'd leave the box dry and temp set at 80. After temps stabilize and you know what is happening consistently, go in and turn the thermostat dial on the oil heater down until it clicks off. Then, turn it back up until it clicks back on plus a little more. Then if your thermostat fails and sticks on, the built-in thermostat on the heater will shut it off before it gets into thermo-nuclear mode. Double safety this way.
2. The box will not stay warm enough with the door open, and your tortoise will also not be safe from critters. I shut all of my doors every single night.
3. It doesn't matter where you put your thermostat, as long as the tortoise can't reach it. What matters is where you put the PROBE for the thermostat. Put the probe down low and far from any heat source. This will ensure that the coldest part of the box is always warm enough.

 

[Tortoisechickenlady]

Thank you! After I typed this, I started reading other threads. I need to buy a thermostat like you all use.. I currently just have a ThermoPro wireless thermometer that just reads the temps.. it doesn't control anything. I will get a thermostat ordered tonight. Which one do you recommend?

Thanks again, Tom! I am so appreciative of your insight!

 

[Tortoisechickenlady]

I just typed up answers to this and more related stuff yesterday. Read this thread for the full explanation:

Radiator Oil Filled Heater Help

I'm looking for advice on what radiator oil filled heater to get for Reggie's room. Our plan was to heat the room during the day with the heater, set the timer to turn it off at night, and heat only the hide at night with a radiant heat panel. The timer would turn the heater back on in the...

tortoiseforum.org

The short answers to your questions:
1. The mini oil heater should be set all the way up, and your thermostat set to 80ish in spring and fall when days are warm and sunny, but nights are cold. Set the thermostat to 86 in winter. I don't know what your summers are like, but with your humidity, I'd leave the box dry and temp set at 80. After temps stabilize and you know what is happening consistently, go in and turn the thermostat dial on the oil heater down until it clicks off. Then, turn it back up until it clicks back on plus a little more. Then if your thermostat fails and sticks on, the built-in thermostat on the heater will shut it off before it gets into thermo-nuclear mode. Double safety this way.
2. The box will not stay warm enough with the door open, and your tortoise will also not be safe from critters. I shut all of my doors every single night.
3. It doesn't matter where you put your thermostat, as long as the tortoise can't reach it. What matters is where you put the PROBE for the thermostat. Put the probe down low and far from any heat source. This will ensure that the coldest part of the box is always warm enough.

Hi Tom!

Thanks again for all of your help. Pokey, my 25lb Leopard tort, stayed nice and toasty this past winter. I have a few more questions if you don't mind... I had your 4x8 night box built for him. Mini oil heater is still running and set the way you described above, on an ink bird thermostat. Last year, he only had plywood for flooring but I started getting concerned with humidity levels.

I recently added peat moss and top soil as substrate. Then last night, I read about how you do not recommend this (so I will be changing to fine-grade orchard bark instead). However, I am super concerned about the substrate becoming a fire hazard. I have misted the floor but sometimes it gets dried out.

There is no substrate near or in close contact to the heater. Do you feel the substrate small particles could get into the heater and set a fire? OR am I being overly paranoid?

Also - as far as oxygen levels, his box is fully sealed / insulated. When I shut the door at night, say 8pm, will he have enough oxygen until I open it again at 7am? Even though he was fine last year, I am scared he's going to suffocate.

Thanks again!

 

[Tom]

Hi Tom!

Thanks again for all of your help. Pokey, my 25lb Leopard tort, stayed nice and toasty this past winter. I have a few more questions if you don't mind... I had your 4x8 night box built for him. Mini oil heater is still running and set the way you described above, on an ink bird thermostat. Last year, he only had plywood for flooring but I started getting concerned with humidity levels.

I recently added peat moss and top soil as substrate. Then last night, I read about how you do not recommend this (so I will be changing to fine-grade orchard bark instead). However, I am super concerned about the substrate becoming a fire hazard. I have misted the floor but sometimes it gets dried out.

There is no substrate near or in close contact to the heater. Do you feel the substrate small particles could get into the heater and set a fire? OR am I being overly paranoid?

Also - as far as oxygen levels, his box is fully sealed / insulated. When I shut the door at night, say 8pm, will he have enough oxygen until I open it again at 7am? Even though he was fine last year, I am scared he's going to suffocate.

Thanks again!

Any substrate needs to be kept damp to reduce the dust. If your box isn't water proofed, this will make it rot pretty quickly.

It would be difficult to start a fire with a radiant oil heater. They don't get hot enough. When I first discovered using radiant oil heaters for tortoises, years ago, I knew a guy using the full size one on high at 1500 watts with no thermostat. He just had it plugged in and on high all night long. It was pushed up against the side and almost touching the top. He'd been using it that way for years with no problem. I make a barrier around mine, use only 600-700 watt units, keep at least 6-8 inches of over head clearance, and use a thermostat. In 15 years of using a dozen of them at a time this way, I've never had any problem.

There is always a gap around the door in my night boxes. Plenty of air movement, so suffocation shouldn't be possible. Also, the oxygen needs of a cool resting tortoise are minuscule compared to a mammal or bird. Give it the candle test. A flame needs lots of oxygen. At a time when your tortoise isn't in the box put a lit candle on the floor in a metal pie tin, make it safe, and shut the door and lid. See how long it burns. I bet it stays lit. Do this during the day when your tortoise is not in the box, and air it out a bit with the lid open when you are done.