Please Post Pics and Explanation of Your Tree Plastic Container Setup
- Thread starter Quixx66
- Start date
Hi all, total newbie here. I’m confused about setting up the container. I saw on here to use the above container for babies. I’m hoping to get a Hermann’s several months from now. In the meantime, I’d like to get supplies and plant some weeds in it far in advance.
Would I need to cut out holes for lights or anything? Leave off the top while the light is on?
Could I see pics of your setup in this container and learn your reasons why?
Thanks!
Would I need to cut out holes for lights or anything? Leave off the top while the light is on?
Could I see pics of your setup in this container and learn your reasons why?
Thanks!
daniellenc
Well-Known Member
daniellenc
Well-Known Member
Incase you can’t tell the UVB tube is mounted inside and a small hole is cut for the heat. If you look up closed chamber threads you’ll find many examples.
I have 5 that I made recently, I’ll post tomorrow.
So I have 2 types of the christmas tree containers. One has a red top, the others a green top. I like the red top more as it has a hinge system that allows easier access inside the tub vs the green top which is all one piece.
Container Top Construction:
I cut roughly square holes at both ends of the tub tops, purchased rectangular aluminum plates and small screws, and then screwed them into place. I originally tried cardboard covered by tin foil as others have tried over the holes to protect, but I just felt the aluminum plates were safer and provided better thermal dissipation. Three important points to remember. First, the aluminum plates extend past the plastic edge a small amount, to protect the edges from melting. Second, you need to remove the bottom of the plastic container that is under the side of the container top with the hinge(photo 4). Third, the hole where the CHE will go should be slightly more towards the middle of the container top, so the CHE heat isn't directly over the hide you put on the opposite side of the basking area (look at photo 3). I also drill a small circular hole in the middle back of the top for wiring. I duct tape the hole to limit heat/humidity loss.
Substrate:
I place a roughly 1.5" base of coir, and then another 2" of fine grade orchid bark. I really like the combo, as the coir soaks up a ton of water for humidity, and the orchid bark lowers the mess that coir can cause and also seems to wick the moisture up to the surface of the floor.
Hide:
I take a narrow plastic container, cover it in duct tape, and glue a sponge on the roof of the inside. The sponge helps to ensure the hide maintains near 100% humidity, and the duct tape limits light and give a bit of insulation.
Heating:
For heat I place a 75 watt CHE on the end with the hide (hence why the hole is slightly more towards the middle, away from the top of the hide), and connect the CHE to a temp probe that is set to 32 celsius. I will using the tubs for hatchlings Sri Lankan stars and they like it hot. For a Testudo, you will not need as high temps/humidity levels, but review the care guides on TFO for specific care parameters. The temp probe has a suction cup that I place near the back middle of the tub.
Lighting:
I have 2 lighting sources in each tub, a 35 watt flood for basking, and small 6" LED light bar that was originally designed as an under-cabinet light. I slope the substrate near the basking light to help increase the distance from the basking light. You will need to play around with the exact wattage needed for your setup, as each persons home has different temps etc.. I do not have the basking light hooked up to a temp probe controller, as the temps never reach higher than 36 celsius directly under the flood. You may need to depending on your setup.
The LED light bar is small and produces almost no heat. It is used mostly to provide ambient lighting on the other side of the tub. I purchased neodymium magnets and glued them to the light bar ends. On the outside of the tub a matching pair of magnets keep the bar firmly in place. I went with magnets instead of screwing the light into place as I love being able to move the light bar around as I see fit without having to drill through the top.
***On the CHE and flood lamps I have taped the vents closed with high temperature resistant polyimide tape. It helps reduce the chimney effect that can happen with lighting/heating elements outside the tub***
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N1RHE2Q/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
The LED and the basking light is connected to a digital timer that runs from 05:30-19:00 daily, the temp controller is plugged directly into the strip, and the CHE is plugged into the temp controller.
Final thoughts:
I want to stress that I have not raised a hatchling in this setup yet. I have been monitoring/experimenting with the setup for the last few months in anticipation of getting 5 Sri Lankan stars from a TFO member. But I can tell you that humidity and temperature levels have stayed incredibly stable, the plastic underneath the aluminum plates are at most mildly warm, and the CHE rarely kicks on longer than 20 minutes at a time.
Personally, I feel these tubs are not meant for anything larger than hatchlings/yearlings(depending on the species) as the height/floor space(6 sq ft) of the tubs are minimal. But, I wanted to house each of the 5 I am getting individually for their first year, and this was the most economical way I could think of. When not in use, these tubs stack up perfectly, all the heating/wiring etc.. fits inside the tub, and they are incredibly light and mobile with wheels on one end. I'm still working on getting all 5 setup perfectly, and will post once they are all completed in the coming months.
Container Top Construction:
I cut roughly square holes at both ends of the tub tops, purchased rectangular aluminum plates and small screws, and then screwed them into place. I originally tried cardboard covered by tin foil as others have tried over the holes to protect, but I just felt the aluminum plates were safer and provided better thermal dissipation. Three important points to remember. First, the aluminum plates extend past the plastic edge a small amount, to protect the edges from melting. Second, you need to remove the bottom of the plastic container that is under the side of the container top with the hinge(photo 4). Third, the hole where the CHE will go should be slightly more towards the middle of the container top, so the CHE heat isn't directly over the hide you put on the opposite side of the basking area (look at photo 3). I also drill a small circular hole in the middle back of the top for wiring. I duct tape the hole to limit heat/humidity loss.
Substrate:
I place a roughly 1.5" base of coir, and then another 2" of fine grade orchid bark. I really like the combo, as the coir soaks up a ton of water for humidity, and the orchid bark lowers the mess that coir can cause and also seems to wick the moisture up to the surface of the floor.
Hide:
I take a narrow plastic container, cover it in duct tape, and glue a sponge on the roof of the inside. The sponge helps to ensure the hide maintains near 100% humidity, and the duct tape limits light and give a bit of insulation.
Heating:
For heat I place a 75 watt CHE on the end with the hide (hence why the hole is slightly more towards the middle, away from the top of the hide), and connect the CHE to a temp probe that is set to 32 celsius. I will using the tubs for hatchlings Sri Lankan stars and they like it hot. For a Testudo, you will not need as high temps/humidity levels, but review the care guides on TFO for specific care parameters. The temp probe has a suction cup that I place near the back middle of the tub.
Lighting:
I have 2 lighting sources in each tub, a 35 watt flood for basking, and small 6" LED light bar that was originally designed as an under-cabinet light. I slope the substrate near the basking light to help increase the distance from the basking light. You will need to play around with the exact wattage needed for your setup, as each persons home has different temps etc.. I do not have the basking light hooked up to a temp probe controller, as the temps never reach higher than 36 celsius directly under the flood. You may need to depending on your setup.
The LED light bar is small and produces almost no heat. It is used mostly to provide ambient lighting on the other side of the tub. I purchased neodymium magnets and glued them to the light bar ends. On the outside of the tub a matching pair of magnets keep the bar firmly in place. I went with magnets instead of screwing the light into place as I love being able to move the light bar around as I see fit without having to drill through the top.
***On the CHE and flood lamps I have taped the vents closed with high temperature resistant polyimide tape. It helps reduce the chimney effect that can happen with lighting/heating elements outside the tub***
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N1RHE2Q/?tag=exoticpetnetw-20
The LED and the basking light is connected to a digital timer that runs from 05:30-19:00 daily, the temp controller is plugged directly into the strip, and the CHE is plugged into the temp controller.
Final thoughts:
I want to stress that I have not raised a hatchling in this setup yet. I have been monitoring/experimenting with the setup for the last few months in anticipation of getting 5 Sri Lankan stars from a TFO member. But I can tell you that humidity and temperature levels have stayed incredibly stable, the plastic underneath the aluminum plates are at most mildly warm, and the CHE rarely kicks on longer than 20 minutes at a time.
Personally, I feel these tubs are not meant for anything larger than hatchlings/yearlings(depending on the species) as the height/floor space(6 sq ft) of the tubs are minimal. But, I wanted to house each of the 5 I am getting individually for their first year, and this was the most economical way I could think of. When not in use, these tubs stack up perfectly, all the heating/wiring etc.. fits inside the tub, and they are incredibly light and mobile with wheels on one end. I'm still working on getting all 5 setup perfectly, and will post once they are all completed in the coming months.
daniellenc
Well-Known Member
Wow very nice!!
