What would work better and not use a **** load of electricity? I was either gonna get a 700w mini oil heater or 120w radiant panel. I'm not sure how well panels work or if I would need more then 1. I used to use a regular size oil heater in my own room before but I know having that I'm all day and night the electric sky rockets. I have a insulated night box he sleeps with a cme in it at the moment till I can figure what would work better. Appreciate any ideas on other products that you guys use for winter
Radiant heat panels or oil heater?
- Thread starter Hai
- Start date
What size box and what size tortoise?
If the box is well insulated and sealed, the oil heater will work great. An RHP by itself will not be enough. I use them in combination with a Kane heat mat in my 4x4x2' boxes and they maintain 80+ degrees on a 30 degree night. CHEs should not be used over larger tortoises.
Whichever way you go, run the heating elements on a separate 1000 watt+ thermostat. The built in ones are not accurate enough and will allow/cause wild temp swings all night.
In a 4x8x2 box, my oil heaters use an average of .18 cents a day of electricity on cold winter nights with a 700 watt mini radiant oil filled heater. And that is at ridiculous CA top tier rates. I run a "Kill a Watt" electricity meter to check the usage.
Here are examples of how I use each of these strategies:
Single Tortoise Night Box
I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll...
tortoiseforum.org
Double Door Night Box
As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...
tortoiseforum.org
Important to know what species and what size he is. Heating a proper enclosure will be much cheaper then trying to heat your whole room.
What size box and what size tortoise?
If the box is well insulated and sealed, the oil heater will work great. An RHP by itself will not be enough. I use them in combination with a Kane heat mat in my 4x4x2' boxes and they maintain 80+ degrees on a 30 degree night. CHEs should not be used over larger tortoises.
Whichever way you go, run the heating elements on a separate 1000 watt+ thermostat. The built in ones are not accurate enough and will allow/cause wild temp swings all night.
In a 4x8x2 box, my oil heaters use an average of .18 cents a day of electricity on cold winter nights with a 700 watt mini radiant oil filled heater. And that is at ridiculous CA top tier rates. I run a "Kill a Watt" electricity meter to check the usage.
Here are examples of how I use each of these strategies:
Single Tortoise Night Box
I like my larger tortoises to live outside full time. My climate permits this year round with a little help. For people who live where it snows all winter, this type of box is still good for warmer weather, getting them out earlier in Spring, and keeping them out a bit later into fall. You'll...Double Door Night Box
As the years have gone by and I build more of these boxes, I learn more and more each time. This one is the latest and I incorporated everything I've learned over the years. I also tried to take lots of pics so I can explain in more detail some of what is going on. It will take multiple posts to...
Thanks Tom I was hoping you'd be the one to answer. I built my box like you single door which is 4x4x2. I have 2 separate guys and there both 2 yrs now so there not huge yet lol. That's why I wanted to get away from the cme. Didn't want to burn them. It did keep my box at 90 last night. Ima go with the oil heater since they only cost 50$. Do you have a thermometer you recommend that works good with that type? I don't think the ones I have will work good enough for that or I don't trust them. What temp do you keep them at? Also off this subject, one of them hasn't been coming out of his box and barely eatting. I have to pick him up and take him to the food. It's been a few weeks not since he started like this. I have an idea what it could be but not to sure. I was told they can get pumpkin with all the guts and seeds. I gave both of my torts some of a small pumpkin and he ate a lot of the guts and seeds mostly. The other one didn't like it very much. I think he's plugged up with seeds bc I gave him a bath and he was pooping whole seeds. So I been giving him very long baths everyday to try and unplug him and he was pooping a very little with a few seeds but the last couple of baths he hasn't pooped. I'm at a lose on what to do now. I made a vet appt bc idk what else to do. Sorry for the long reply.
What species, and what size? The age doesn't tell me how big they are.
Are they living together?
Pumpkin shouldn't cause the issues you are seeing. Cold night temps, or bullying could though.
In fall and spring when we are having warm sunny days, I set the box temps around 80. In winter when skies are cold and overcast, I set the box temps for about 86. In summer when nights are warmer and days are over 100 degrees, I unplug the boxes or turn the thermostat down to the low 70s because the boxes stay in the 80s during those times all on their own.
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Pumpkin seeds should not plug up a sulcata. They pass poop much bigger than that regularly! Cooler temps can cause urates to precipitate more readily and possibly start stones. But it sounds like your night box is well warm enough to keep them warm at night where that should not be an issue.
I have found by adding lights to the night box to increase the photoperiod, it has helped greatly in keeping tortoises more active over the shorter winter months. I use flush-mounted LED lights and set them for a 13 hour photoperiod. Short daylight hours and reduced UV/sunlight intensity definitely slows activity in most tortoises. I also like to have it where the tortoise can warm up to about 88°-90° in daytime. So a constant night box at 80° when daytime temps never climb above mid 70°s is not best in my opinion. I use either an added incandescent to bump daytime temps or just raise night box temp to 85°.
I have found by adding lights to the night box to increase the photoperiod, it has helped greatly in keeping tortoises more active over the shorter winter months. I use flush-mounted LED lights and set them for a 13 hour photoperiod. Short daylight hours and reduced UV/sunlight intensity definitely slows activity in most tortoises. I also like to have it where the tortoise can warm up to about 88°-90° in daytime. So a constant night box at 80° when daytime temps never climb above mid 70°s is not best in my opinion. I use either an added incandescent to bump daytime temps or just raise night box temp to 85°.
There both sulcatas, the that's not acting normal is the bigger one. He's around 12” I haven't measured in a while but he's around 15lbs. The younger one was way smaller then the other but in the last month he's caught up in size and weight. He's been eating a lot. I don't think it has to do with the weather bc when all this started it was still hot out and in the 80s and night. He used to be the first in the yard and eat alot and when I gave a bath I would change the water at least 6 times bc he would poop so much. Now it's the complete opposite. If I don't get him he won't come out it's really odd. The both have separate houses but share the yard. I have sum1 at the house 24/7 and is usually outside in the garden and never had a problem between them. But I'm looking to give one away bc I know there can be problems. Like I said it all started a couple days after he ate the pumpkin. I do have an appt with a reptile vet this Thursday. The younger seems to flash his junk way to much. Damn thing comes out so many times a day but the other does it also but way way less. Really wanted to avoid the vet bc idk whAt they can do with tortoises.
Sounds like a classic case of domination. The other one is growing faster and flashing a lot. This one is intimidated. They should never live as a pair and should never share space.
I don't think a vet will do anything of value for you.
Why would he be intimidated now. He's always been bigger and a little older. The one that's flashing alot always seems to do it whenever someone scratches his head or feeds him by hand and in the bath. Never when the other tortoise is around. I haven't seen any of the shows of domination. But anyways that's why I been trying to give one away to someone that can properly take care of one
Because that's how tortoises are. It has always been a problem, but you've gotten away with it until now. What has changed is that the other one is becoming more dominant and showing it.
