Redfoot Care sheet for newbies, please look over and make corrections as you see fit.

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methos75

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So some of my friends and followers on some of the gaming sites I visit and those who know me on facebook, are interested in getting into Tortoises after seeing mine and are interesting in getting into the hobby. While I have posted links to here and other sites like The tortoise trust, I want to do a caresheet that they can look at one the website or on my facebook so I wrote this quick one up. I like more advanced keepers to look over, and suggest modifications and additions. Pics have been taken out to cut down on size. Original caresheet can be found at Redfoot Care



First Exotic pet care listing: Redfoot Tortoises
Here is a pic of both of my Redfoot Tortoises(Geochelone carbonaria), and Amazonian Jungle Tortoise. The Bigger Male is named Lakitu, the smaller Female called Koopa.




Unlike the vast majority of Tortoise which inhibit Arid semi desert areas, the Red foots inhabit humid jungle areas following the Amazon Riverine system in Belize, Brazil, French Guyana, etc and can be found on some Caribbean Islands. As such their care is a bit more active than some other Torts, in that they need to be regularly misted or have an mister system in their tank, so that humidity stays near 80% at all times. I mist mine and their tank with a spray bottle three times a day, the torts get sprayed till water is beading on their shells and their habitat just enough so that its moist, but not wet. Keeping them moist like this also helps to fight Shell issues such as Pyramiding and helps them to keep their coloration. Just ensure that their tank is moist and that it drys after about 30 minutes a bit, and not wet to fight molding and fungal infections.

I keep my two in a 45 gal breeder tank that is 36 x 18 x 18, this gives them plenty of space to tromp around. I use Jungle Bed for substrate, its produced by Exo Terra and is a mixture of coconut fibers, soil, moss, etc and works well at maintaining heat and humidity. They have a large hide in the corner that they use to hid in and sleep, I keep it soaked underneath it and on the bottom of the glass under it I have an Exo Terra jungle substrate heater to maintain the temp under it at 80%.

On the other side of the tank is a 50 watt sunglo bulb that they use to bask in and to warm up, the average basking temp it puts out is 91% which is perfectly fine for them and its low wattage ensures the light isn't too bright. Redfoots live on the floor of the jungle where it isn't too bright, and like low light more so than direct bright lighting. They also need some form of UVB lighting to maintain their appetites and help them in processing calcium which they need for shell and bone growth and to avoid getting MBD( a reptile bone disorder. For this I use one Zilla slim light enclosure with a Exo Terra Reptisun 5.0 Florescent UVB light.

Underneath the basking light on the tank bed, I have placed a large stone with rocks placed around it so that they heat up, and provide a nice warm spot where the Tortoise can thermo-regulate their core temp on both their top and bottom. It is important that you maintain a area in the tank that is around 90 degrees and another that hovers between 75-80 degrees so that they can properly regulate their temps as needed.



Their diet is also a bit different than most Tortoises who live off of Silica based plants such as grasses and weeds, and cannot properly process most Fruit sugars or animal based proteins. Unlike those Tortoises which are true herbivores, Redfoots are omnivores and a wider in scope diet and can eat fruit and animal based proteins. I feed mine greens such as endive, Reddicho, Romaine lettuce, Kale, Dandelions, Mache, etc daily, and they get fruits and veggies such as Apples, Bananas, Squash, Bell Peppers, carrots, Papaya, etc every other day to round out their diet and too give them variety.

I dust this food every other day with Reptivite Supplement, so that they get all the vitamins, Calcium, and D3 that they need to maintain their health. Every Friday they get Protein in the form of low fat Cat food, Turtle pellets, Mazuri Tortoise food, Chicken, etc, while they need Protein in their diets too much of it can deform their shells so once a
week is good enough as long as its high quality protein.

Also ensure they always have a large supply of fresh water, they did a area with water large enough for them to soak in, but only deep enough to go up halfway on their shells that can easily be climbed out off. Red Foots need to soak every few days, and they also like to defaecate in their water for whatever reason. So its important to maintain their water quality since the water they defaecate and soak in, is also their drinking supply. constantly change it as needed.

Red Foots tortoise IMO are one of the better species of tortoise to keep, their care is straight forward, they are highly intelligent and personable and will come up to the glass and beg and try to get your attention, and tame while enough that they will follow you around the yard. They are a medium sized Tortoise that grow to around 16 inches at the biggest and around 30 pounds, vastly smaller than torts like the Leopard and Star tortoises you see in pet stores, and much smaller than the common Sulcata's seen everywhere that easily can get up to 120 pounds.
 

wildponey21

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The only thing i saw was that you should not give them Bananas. they can have them now and then but not all the time. I would not give chicken just give them Mazuri Tortoise food. I got a red foot and it was given cat food once a week and he has realy bed Pyramiding.
 

terryo

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I never supplemented with vitamins until mine was 6 months old. When I started protein at the same age I only used low fat dried cat food, soaked and sprinkled with calcium . I fed greens, high in vitamins for two days, then fruit the third day, and at 6 months started the protein once a week. When she went outside for the Summer, I started on live protein. I think she turned out pretty good. She's almost four years old now. I'm doing the same with my new yearling. This is the care sheet that I used.
http://www.redfoots.com/redfoot.htm

Your care sheet is good, but needs some tweeking....but very nice.
034-8.jpg
 

Madkins007

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methos75 said:
So some of my friends and followers on some of the gaming sites I visit and those who know me on facebook, are interested in getting into Tortoises after seeing mine and are interesting in getting into the hobby. While I have posted links to here and other sites like The tortoise trust, I want to do a caresheet that they can look at one the website or on my facebook so I wrote this quick one up. I like more advanced keepers to look over, and suggest modifications and additions. Pics have been taken out to cut down on size. Original caresheet can be found at Redfoot Care



First Exotic pet care listing: Redfoot Tortoises
Here is a pic of both of my Redfoot Tortoises(Geochelone carbonaria), and Amazonian Jungle Tortoise. The Bigger Male is named Lakitu, the smaller Female called Koopa.




Unlike the vast majority of Tortoise which inhibit Arid semi desert areas, the Red foots inhabit humid jungle areas following the Amazon Riverine system in Belize, Brazil, French Guyana, etc and can be found on some Caribbean Islands.


Most Red-foots inhabit the wet portions of dry savannahs. We covered this in the thread 'Tortoise Mythbusters 2' (I cannot easily link from my work account, sorry). I have maps and discussions of this in the Tortoise Library- http://www.tortoiselibrary.com/range.html and other pages). Yellow-foots, on the other hand, do come from the Amazon Basin rain forest.


As such their care is a bit more active than some other Torts, in that they need to be regularly misted or have an mister system in their tank, so that humidity stays near 80% at all times. I mist mine and their tank with a spray bottle three times a day, the torts get sprayed till water is beading on their shells and their habitat just enough so that its moist, but not wet. Keeping them moist like this also helps to fight Shell issues such as Pyramiding and helps them to keep their coloration. Just ensure that their tank is moist and that it drys after about 30 minutes a bit, and not wet to fight molding and fungal infections.

I keep my two in a 45 gal breeder tank that is 36 x 18 x 18, this gives them plenty of space to tromp around. I use Jungle Bed for substrate, its produced by Exo Terra and is a mixture of coconut fibers, soil, moss, etc and works well at maintaining heat and humidity. They have a large hide in the corner that they use to hid in and sleep, I keep it soaked underneath it and on the bottom of the glass under it I have an Exo Terra jungle substrate heater to maintain the temp under it at 80%.

On the other side of the tank is a 50 watt sunglo bulb that they use to bask in and to warm up, the average basking temp it puts out is 91% which is perfectly fine for them and its low wattage ensures the light isn't too bright. Redfoots live on the floor of the jungle where it isn't too bright, and like low light more so than direct bright lighting. They also need some form of UVB lighting to maintain their appetites and help them in processing calcium which they need for shell and bone growth and to avoid getting MBD( a reptile bone disorder. For this I use one Zilla slim light enclosure with a Exo Terra Reptisun 5.0 Florescent UVB light.

Underneath the basking light on the tank bed, I have placed a large stone with rocks placed around it so that they heat up, and provide a nice warm spot where the Tortoise can thermo-regulate their core temp on both their top and bottom. It is important that you maintain a area in the tank that is around 90 degrees and another that hovers between 75-80 degrees so that they can properly regulate their temps as needed.



Their diet is also a bit different than most Tortoises who live off of Silica based plants such as grasses and weeds, and cannot properly process most Fruit sugars or animal based proteins. Unlike those Tortoises which are true herbivores, Redfoots are omnivores and a wider in scope diet and can eat fruit and animal based proteins. I feed mine greens such as endive, Reddicho, Romaine lettuce, Kale, Dandelions, Mache, etc daily, and they get fruits and veggies such as Apples, Bananas, Squash, Bell Peppers, carrots, Papaya, etc every other day to round out their diet and too give them variety.

I dust this food every other day with Reptivite Supplement, so that they get all the vitamins, Calcium, and D3 that they need to maintain their health. Every Friday they get Protein in the form of low fat Cat food, Turtle pellets, Mazuri Tortoise food, Chicken, etc, while they need Protein in their diets too much of it can deform their shells so once a
week is good enough as long as its high quality protein.
[/b]

There is not much evidence that proteins cause pyramiding or shell problems, but it is a good idea to limit animal proteins, fats, etc. nonetheless.[/b]

Also ensure they always have a large supply of fresh water, they did a area with water large enough for them to soak in, but only deep enough to go up halfway on their shells that can easily be climbed out off. Red Foots need to soak every few days, and they also like to defaecate in their water for whatever reason. So its important to maintain their water quality since the water they defaecate and soak in, is also their drinking supply. constantly change it as needed.

Red Foots tortoise IMO are one of the better species of tortoise to keep, their care is straight forward, they are highly intelligent and personable and will come up to the glass and beg and try to get your attention, and tame while enough that they will follow you around the yard. They are a medium sized Tortoise that grow to around 16 inches at the biggest and around 30 pounds, vastly smaller than torts like the Leopard and Star tortoises you see in pet stores, and much smaller than the common Sulcata's seen everywhere that easily can get up to 120 pounds.

Care sheets are harder than they look, aren't they? This is a good description of how you care for your tortoises, but there are many, many other options people can try, and many people have strong opinions about many of the care points.

For example, I really don't like coconut coir in my substrates after having tried it and really like cypress mulch. There is also little evidence they don't like light and Red-foots are rarely found in the 'floor of the jungle'- although it is easy to overdo light and all babies prefer to hide.

I pointed out the two things that I consider to be erroneous and would be happy to share the results of my research about them if you are interested.

Otherwise, it looks OK to me. Heck, the whole Tortoise Library project started as a one-page care sheet idea!
 

LindaF

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RE: Redfoot Care sheet for newbies, please look over and make corrections as you see

terryo said:
I never supplemented with vitamins until mine was 6 months old. When I started protein at the same age I only used low fat dried cat food, soaked and sprinkled with calcium . I fed greens, high in vitamins for two days, then fruit the third day, and at 6 months started the protein once a week. When she went outside for the Summer, I started on live protein. I think she turned out pretty good. She's almost four years old now. I'm doing the same with my new yearling. This is the care sheet that I used.
http://www.redfoots.com/redfoot.htm

Your care sheet is good, but needs some tweeking....but very nice.
034-8.jpg

Terry O your tort looks beautiful!
 

Madkins007

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I agree that Terry O's tort and enclosure are truly gorgeous!
 

terryo

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Thanks Linda and Mark. There are so many different opinions on raising these guys, that pretty soon everyone will have their own care sheet, which will take into consideration where you live, if they can stay outside all year, or if you have to take them inside for the Winter, what kind of indoor heat you have, if you keep your home hot or cold...etc. At this point, I think that if you incorporate a little from each care sheet, you will find out what works best for you.
As for you library Mark, everytime I need to look something up, I have to go to my favorites, find the site, and look for the imformation I'm interested in. Since you won't make it into a book,:( I'm printing the whole thing out and making a folder for myself. (I really love it) I'm thinking I might start bringing in any eggs I find (box turtle) from now on and incubating them too, something I've never done before.
(Sorry for going OT)
 

methos75

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True true Terry, though I feel that most here at least are doing most things similar. I went out today to a few petstores to pick up pet supplies, and the general care of the torts I saw in general was horrid and the few I talked too seemed to not know better. In response I changed my caresheet some and made it more broad, and placed it on craiglist, and added links too here, so that at least some of the torts are better cared for around here.
 

Madkins007

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Terry- I have not given up my dream of a book. In a lot of ways, the Library is part of the research, tuning, and thinking things through phase. Of course, I have no idea if there is much of a market beyond you and my mom.
 

terryo

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methos75 said:
True true Terry, though I feel that most here at least are doing most things similar. I went out today to a few petstores to pick up pet supplies, and the general care of the torts I saw in general was horrid and the few I talked too seemed to not know better. In response I changed my caresheet some and made it more broad, and placed it on craiglist, and added links too here, so that at least some of the torts are better cared for around here.

That was a great idea, and a wonderful thing to do. Sometimes I see water turtles, but I never see a tortoise on craigslist in my area.
 

tortoises101

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This caresheet is decent for a starter, but there are some erros in it, like with the bananas (note: you can feed more plantain than bananas, as plantains are slightly less sweeter and also more easily digestable than bananas). I think what would be more helpful is if they provided some insight on the natural history of C.carbonaria as it helps the beginner reflect more on their setup.
 

methos75

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Here is the new revised broader caresheet:

Proper Tortoise Care (USA)

Date: 2011-02-11, 4:52PM MST
Reply to: [email protected] [Errors when replying to ads?]

Since the Redfoot Tortoise seems to be the most common found here, and I have yet to find one Petstore that properly cares for them 100% correctly, I will comment more on their care and list the contrast with other Tortoises as needed. Unlike the vast majority of Tortoise which inhibit Arid semi desert areas, the Red foots inhabit humid jungle areas following the Amazon Riverine system in Belize, Brazil, French Guyana, etc and can be found on some Caribbean Islands. As such their care is a bit more active than some other Torts, in that they need to be regularly misted or have an mister system in their tank, so that humidity stays near 80% at all times. I mist mine and their tank with a spray bottle three times a day, the torts get sprayed till water is beading on their shells and their habitat just enough so that its moist, but not wet. Keeping them moist like this also helps to fight Shell issues such as Pyramiding and helps them to keep their coloration. Just ensure that their tank is moist and that it drys after about 30 minutes a bit, and not wet to fight molding and fungal infections. This is of course vastly opposite to how they are cared for in Pet Stores and by many owners, who for reasons unknown treat them as Desert Tortoises, and have them in hot, dry tanks that are too hot and do not deliver the proper amount of humidity.

Too take this a bit further, a warm, humid set-up in generally is good for just about any Tortoise Species, especially when youunger, and all tortoises regardless of species need to be soak in warm water at least twice a week for proper health to be maintained and to help with the passing of waste. Even Large desert Tortoises such as the Sulcata spend most of their time in hot, humid borrows, and not out in the baking Sun. Its is a common fallacy of the Petstores to insist that Tortoises can live in dry hot conditions without little water or moisture, do not believe it. Except for the Indian Star and Leopard Tortoises, all other Tortoises in nature have perfectly smooth shells, yet 95% of the ones found in petstores have bumpy shells. That is not normal, and it is a result of improper conditions in the tank and a lack of soaking and required amounts of moisture.

I own two Redfoots and a Sulcata that I recently acquired that I keep in a 45 gal breeder tank that is 36 x 18 x 18, this gives them plenty of space to tromp around FOR THE SIZE THEY ARE NOW. Such a enclosure is not recommended for long term use for most Tortoise species, only the Russian, Pancake, Spider, and Ploughshare Tortoise stay small enough for this too be a practical size tank. The two most Common Tortoises found around here are the Redfoots and Sulcata, neither is a good Tortoise to keep longterm indoors due to their size. Redfoots can reach a SCL of 18 inches and weigh nearly 25 pounds, and Benefit from being kept outdoors. My two stay indoors only in the Winter, during the Summer out they go. The Sulcata should not even be looked at IMO if you plan to stat in Colorado, this is the third largest Tortoise in the World and they easily reach weights of over 200 pounds in Captivity. This is simply not an animal they can stay indoors once it reaches adult size and needs to be kept outdoors, which here in Colorado is virtually impossible for most due to the winter Temps. Do not listen to petstore employees who like to state they stay small, that is the biggest Myth out there and is untrue.

For Substrate in the tank I use Jungle Bed for substrate, its produced by Exo Terra and is a mixture of coconut fibers, soil, moss, etc and works well at maintaining heat and humidity. I find this too be a very nice Substrate too use for any species of tortoise. Avoid using sand for as I stated above, Dry is bad. Also avoid any Aspen or cider mulch like material, it has oils in it that over time will leach out and poison most reptiles. I also think that all bark like substrate a bad idea, since as it drys it puts out a dust that will harm reptiles eyes, and over time as they ingest it cause issues. They could also swallow it when eating, and that can cause impactation. Many also use alfalfa bedding, which I also hate for a few issues. One its hard for Tortoises to walk on and over time causes leg and nail issues. Secondly if your properly misting the tank as I stated, it will get wet and spoil. Thirdly Torts will eat it, which since its high in protein can cause issues I will explain later. They have a large hide in the corner that they use to hid in and sleep, I keep it soaked underneath it and on the bottom of the glass under it I have an Exo Terra jungle substrate heater to maintain the temp under it at 80%. This is very important, Tortoises need a hide to feel secure and to escape the heat so that they can properly thermo-regulate their systems. Tortoise without proper Hides have shown decreased health and lifespans in studies.

On the other side of the tank away from the hide is a 100 watt Powersun MVB bulb that they use to bask in and to warm up, the average basking temp it puts out 95% which is perfectly fine for them. Best yet is that since its a MVB bulb, it also puts off that all important UVB spectrum that they need. I also have a 36" reptisun 10.0 tube over them too put out UVB rays as well, and for general lighting. All Tortoises need some form of UVB lighting to maintain their appetites and help them in processing calcium which they need for shell and bone growth and to avoid getting MBD( a reptile bone disorder). It is very important that both a proper basking area as well as access to UVB rays near it are offered, without it a Tortoise just cannot thrive at all and will become lethargic.

Underneath the basking light on the tank bed, I have placed a large stone with rocks placed around it so that they heat up, and provide a nice warm spot where the Tortoise can thermo-regulate their core temp on both their top and bottom. It is important that you maintain a area in the tank that is around 95 degrees and another that hovers between 75-80 degrees so that they can properly regulate their temps as needed.

Redfoot diet is the biggest single difference between them and most other Tortoises who live off of Silica based plants such as grasses and weeds, and cannot properly process most Fruit sugars or animal based proteins. Unlike those Tortoises which are true herbivores, Redfoots are omnivores and a wider in scope diet and can eat fruit and animal based proteins. I feed mine greens such as endive, Reddicho, Romaine lettuce, Kale, Dandelions, Mache, etc daily, and they get fruits and veggies such as Apples, Bananas, Squash, Bell Peppers, carrots, Papaya, etc every other day to round out their diet and too give them variety. but as I stated, this is different from other species of Tortoise. Only the Indian Star, Yellow foots, Hingeback, and Spider Tortoise can eat a diet such as this. Well many feed their Tortoises fruits and protein on a daily basis, the simple fact is that except for the Redfoots and above mentioned Torts, this can kill your pet. Other Tortoises should only be fed fruit as a treat every few weeks since they cannot properly process the sugars in it, and never, never, NEVER protein based foods at all. Other foods to avoid are Spinach, Broccoli, etc due to the Oxolotes in them which can cause Calcium regulation issues in them, and Iceberg Lettuce which holds zero nutritional value. The other listed leafy grreens are fine in moderation, but they should also be fed Clover, Dandelions, and other weed and grass hays when ever possible. Also limit the amount of pellet type foods you may feed them, most are high in plant protein and fruit, and are recommended only as a supplement.

I dust this food every other day with Reptivite Supplement, so that they get all the vitamins, Calcium, and D3 that they need to maintain their health.

Every Friday my Redfoots get Protein in the form of low fat Cat food, Turtle pellets, Mazuri Tortoise food, Chicken, etc, while they need Protein in their diets too much of it can deform their shells so once an week is good enough as long as its high quality protein, but remember this is only for Redfoots and other specified species. all other, zero Protein EVER.

Also ensure they always have a large supply of fresh water, they did a area with water large enough for them to soak in, but only deep enough to go up halfway on their shells that can easily be climbed out off. Red Foots need to soak every few days, and they also like to defaecate in their water for whatever reason. So its important to maintain their water quality since the water they defaecate and soak in, is also their drinking supply. Constantly change it as needed.

That is it, if you have any other questions feel free to ask, i will answer the best I can and if not get you in contact with the TTPG or tortoisetrust to those who can.
 

HLogic

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Methos, there are several inaccuracies in the care sheet, some of which have been already been noted. A few of the other inaccuracies could be omitted without detracting from the intent or content.

Please understand that the following suggestions and corrections are not intended to minimize the effort you have put into crafting the care sheet, dissuade you from pursuing the objective or in any way to humiliate, demoralize or denegrate you. Wisdom is what we old fogies learned by making mistakes.

"Amazon Riverine system in Belize..." - for the most part the Red-footed tortoise inhabits almost everywhere but the Amazon river system with the exception of certain areas of disturbed habitat or open non-deluvial savannah and dry forest. To the best of my knowledge they do not occur naturally in Belize.

"Keeping them moist..and helps them to keep their coloration." - I am unaware of any evidence to this effect. Can you cite a reference?

"all tortoises regardless of species need to be soak in warm water" - not all tortoises have access to standing water ever much less twice a week. Although generally a good practice in captive husbandry, it is not required if other measures are taken to mediate humidity.

"spend most of their time in hot, humid borrows" - burrows generally are utilized because of the consistent termperature and humidity. In hot periods burrows are much cooler than ambient above ground temperatures averaging about 80° F (26° C) or slightly less. In colder periods they are warmer averaging around 65° F (18° C)

"Except for the Indian Star and Leopard Tortoises..." - Sri Lankan Stars, some groups of Aldabra and Galapagos tortoises, as well as, many Red-footed tortoises in the Chaco region of Paraguay also exibit this morphology. This could be omitted without affecting the thrust of the sheet.

"two Redfoots and a Sulcata" - it is generally ill-advised to maintain species of different regions together. This husbandry does not lend credence to the article.

"Such a[n] enclosure is not recommended..Ploughshare..." - I don't believe a 12 - 17 inch tortoise would do well in those accomodations. This could be eliminated as well.

"Aspen or cider mulch" - Aspen is perfectly harmless and thousands of snakes and lizards have been kept on it for years. It is not recommended for tortoises because of the potential for consuming it. "Cedar" contains noxious oils that can harm reptiles.

"bark like substrate a bad idea" - I keep most of what I consider my high-end hatchlings on pine bark nuggets. It is antimycotic, antibacterial, retains moisture well, allows burrowing and is unlikey to be eaten due to its unpalatability.

UVB - I would be the last to say this but I think PowerSun would be sufficient for UVB. Considering the height of the enclosure & assuming the flourescent is mounted on top, the flourescent UVB lamp is providing little usable radiation. You should clarify that UVB lamps of any type should be used in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

"Only the Indian Star,..." - there are several other frugivorous species, among them are Indotestudo spp. and particularly I. forstenii. I don't believe a Star Tortoise would fare well on that diet. Listing other species does not add substance to the care sheet objective.

"Iceberg Lettuce which holds zero nutritional value" - check your references and you will find that Romaine and Iceberg are almost identical.

Animal protein - this is still a very gray area. For the most part tortoises do not eat meat. An occasional insect, feather or shed skin or the seldom encountered carrion or carnivore feces and more frequently bird droppings would be the likely animal protein fare of the typical RF. The results are not clear with regard to the long-term regular consumption of animal protein in these animals.

There are also several spelling and other grammatical errors...

thermo-regulate -> thermoregulate
oxolotes -> oxalates
too -> to (except "are too hot")
most common found -> most commonly found

I would suggest rereading each statement in the article. Double-check spelling and grammar. Concentrate on stating facts and labelling opinion or current trends as such. When making statements like "UVB lighting to maintain their appetites" be sure to have a reference (UVA is generally considered associated with stimulating appetite). Try to generalize or avoid emotional interjection by changing words like "hate" to "discourage". If there is any factoid, claim or uncategorical statement; verify its veracity.

After you have made this first pass, put it away and don't look at it again for a week. After the week has passed, reread it again performing the same critical review as the first time. If after the third review you find you are no longer making moderate changes to it, ask someone else to review it for you to be certain it is understandable to someone unfamiliar with the topic. Terms like MVB, UVP, etc. may be commonplace in our conversations but would a neophyte understand?

Try to keep your audience in mind and approach the subject from their level of expertise. Try to stay on topic and limit or completely eliminate comparisons to other species. Comparisons to other unknowns, from the beginner's standpoint, do not assist in clarifying the material.

Methos, I hope you take this in the light in which it was intended. I have written many technical papers, theses and other documentation. I always ask an authority and a member of the target audience to review them - and sometimes even an uninterested third party. I applaud your bravery in doing so as well! It is not easy to accept criticism but it will make for a much better next time. No one want to suffer the 'red ink' of an editor and certainly not twice!

It's past my bedtime..g'nite everybuddy
 

methos75

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It is a evolving work, I am changing ever thing as I go. But I do have a question on the Aspen and Bark, I have heard that such substrate is poisonous too reptiles and the Vet I use has stated the same, that is where I got that info from. As to the Sulcata and Redfoots being together, its only temp till I get back home in the Spring to its outdoor enclousure.
 

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Glad to hear that... in a subject area such as this, it always will be. There is always something new to add and something old to remove...

I suggest that your veterinarian research what substrate the majority of snake keepers use - Aspen. The problem with aspen as a substrate for torts is that it sticks to food and torts are not necessarily meticulous when it comes to eating ancillary items along with their food. Aspen shavings can cause intestinal blockages leading to impaction if sufficient quantities are eaten. As for pine bark, I use Zoo Med and have had animals on it for more than 5 years. Dust from pine bark is not an issue as the humidty and misting prevent its dispersion.

OK, I'm really goin' to bed now...
 

cdmay

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Location (City and/or State)
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A worthy effort Methos especially if you incorporate Art's advice.
Having him spend that much time giving constructive criticism and then explaining why he brings up the things he does is priceless. Your care sheet will be that much better with help from folks as knowledgeable and well spoken as Art/HLogic, Madkins007 and TerryO.
 
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