Reptiles Magazine Sept. 2012 Issue - bizarre advice?

[Herd of Tortoi]

I am a proud owner of a little Russian tort, a rescue. He went from having a respiratory issue and lethargic to a strong, healthy little guy in a few months once he was mine.

I read some . . . odd advice in the new Reptiles magazine about Russian torts, and I need to know I am not crazy.

In the article "Tortoise Breeding Indoors" the author says:
- "Although UV-B producing bulbs can be used, they are not necessary for raising or breeding"

- " . . create a basking spot of 110 degrees . . . "

- "I do not soak my hatchlings in a regular basis because it is more natural for them to seek out substrate of higher humidity rather than standing water"

My little Jumby loves to bask at 89-91. He flees to the other side if it gets to 93+. He seems to love soaking, and I directly associate that with his vastly improved health, and I read hatchlings need soaks even more than adults. And no UV-B?? I thought torts do best outside BECAUSE of UV-B.

Any thoughts on this? With such wacky husbandry, I considered canceling my subscription. I usually use http://russiantortoise.net/ and its advice which helped my Jumby to thrive seems totally contradictory.

Thanks for your replies!

 

[CactusVinnie]

I am on the natural approach when keeping an animal, be it fish or tortoise... indoor is out of question for me. Considering that I find aberrant to keep a Horsfieldi indoors, my opinions are:

- some may not use UVB, but use a vitamin D3 supplement, otherwise difformity results. Maybe some breeders acquired adult animals, and for a season, they managed to lay some eggs, depleting their calcium reserves to some extent? But that cannot last for long, even if lack of calcium in adults is not translating anymore in visible difformity, but in other problems.
- not too hot for outdoors, but for a spot-like source, is maybe too much. Results in not uniform heating of the carapace and often overheating in some portions-> dessication, burns.
- this affirmation is correct, they rarely find standing water in the wild, and instead seek refuges and other ways to CONSERVE water. Personally, I offer my hatchlings - not Horsfieldi, but Ibera- water, since i cannot replicate all the variety of microclimates and hides that they can choose in the wild. Failing/forgetting to do so, may result in dehydration-> kidney problems... why risking?
During drought, the hides I offer are maybe not perfect; juicy leaves- out of question, they eat even dry grass; temperatures close to 40*C; in these conditions, I cannot have a guarantee that they will fend for themselves- in fact, it would be impossible. So, ALWAYS water at their disposal.
At the moment, it's RAINING in Bucharest, after a 2 months severe drought!! Tortoises are very happy, running all over the enclosures!!

I would advice you to check climate data for habitats of any creature you keep, compare to yours, feed as much wild weeds and have a natural approach in general.

 

[Yvonne G]

Hi Herd of Tortoi:

We're glad you've found our forum and have joined us here.

There is no "one" hard, fast rule for tortoise-keeping. One tries to discover what the tortoise needs to grow and thrive, and then you try to provide that. The way that someone in the UK provides for a tortoise's needs is different from how I, here in the Central Valley of California provide those needs.

I feel that we have our babies on "slow cook," what with all the lights and heaters, so I soak my babies at least every other day, and sometimes every day. Once I put them outside, and they're no longer on "slow cook," I don't soak them anymore, but I provide a waterer in their habitat that they can climb into on their own.

We say that you should have a temperature gradient in the indoor habitat, with the temp directly under the light around 100F. Then it should be around 80-85F on the warm end and room temp on the opposite end.

I've been taking care of and raising tortoises for over 35 years. I only started using the MVB (Mercury Vapor Bulbs) a couple years ago. Before that I only had regular 100 watt incandescent bulbs over my indoor habitats. But I tried to get them outside for a bit every day or so. I have found that using the MVB has made me lazy and my indoor tortoises don't get outside nearly as often as they used to.

So, to repeat: You figure out what the tortoise needs in order to grow and thrive, and you provide it any way you can.

I find it is best to do your own thing and don't get tied into following someone else's "rules."

 

[Jacqui]

So, to repeat: You figure out what the tortoise needs in order to grow and thrive, and you provide it any way you can.

I find it is best to do your own thing and don't get tied into following someone else's "rules."

All of both your post and the one before offer great comments. I especially however like your last statement Yvonne, about not using somebody else's rules. Personally, I would rather a keeper take a bit from here and there to find what works the best for them, their tortoise, and their situation.

 

[Herd of Tortoi]

Thanks for the replies and the welcome! I have been here a while, just usually reading

 

[lynnedit]

Wonderful advice. We all have different situations, different climates and different living situations.
It sounds as if you have done a wonderful job with your tortoise. The fact that he is thriving proves it.