TortoiseRacket
Well-Known Member
Before we get into this, I want to say that this is based off of my experience and a mix of care sheets that seem to work for me.
Please critique- I am always learning!
Russian Tortoise- Testudo Horsfeldi- Care Sheet
Availability:
Russian tortoises are imported out of India and Pakistan in large numbers, usually in terrible conditions. When considering to get a Russian tortoise, please adopt from rescues, buy a captive bred tortoise, or take one from a person who can’t care for theirs anymore. Captive Bred tortoises will be expensive, but will last longer and be “friendlier”.
Housing:
On to housing. A minimum of 6x3 will suit one Russian tortoise. Bigger is better. Only under very specific circumstances, DO NOT house two Russian tortoises together. For substrate, a deep layer of topsoil or cypress mulch will work fine. Do not use ZooMed Repti-Bark, as it has very small splinters that can damage your tortoises eyes or get lodged in its digestive system. Succulents will provide a natural look, just make sure they are tortoise-safe.
Lighting/Heating:
Russian tortoises need 10-14 hours of UVB light and heat daily. Russian tortoises will not sit under UVB, if your tortoise isn’t getting a lot of it because he is hiding or somewhere else in the cage, do not worry. The basking spot should be 90-103 degrees F. Cool side should be 77-86 degrees Fahrenheit. Do not use cheap pet store temperature and humidity gauges- they are not accurate. Spend the extra $10.00 and get a temperature gun.
Diet:
In the wild, Russian tortoises eat sparse vegetation. In captivity, you should have a variety of green vegetables, such as
-romaine lettuce
-leaf lettuce
-chicory
-weeds
-sunflowers
-mustard, collard, and dandelion greens
-etc.
Water/Humidity:
50-70% humidity- achieve this by wetting substrate completely weekly. Twice daily 10-15 minute sprays from a plant mister.
For babies, a closed chamber works, but it is not needed for adults. Water bowls are nessicary. You should soak babies weekly, adults every other week.
Please critique- I am always learning!
Russian Tortoise- Testudo Horsfeldi- Care Sheet
Availability:
Russian tortoises are imported out of India and Pakistan in large numbers, usually in terrible conditions. When considering to get a Russian tortoise, please adopt from rescues, buy a captive bred tortoise, or take one from a person who can’t care for theirs anymore. Captive Bred tortoises will be expensive, but will last longer and be “friendlier”.
Housing:
On to housing. A minimum of 6x3 will suit one Russian tortoise. Bigger is better. Only under very specific circumstances, DO NOT house two Russian tortoises together. For substrate, a deep layer of topsoil or cypress mulch will work fine. Do not use ZooMed Repti-Bark, as it has very small splinters that can damage your tortoises eyes or get lodged in its digestive system. Succulents will provide a natural look, just make sure they are tortoise-safe.
Lighting/Heating:
Russian tortoises need 10-14 hours of UVB light and heat daily. Russian tortoises will not sit under UVB, if your tortoise isn’t getting a lot of it because he is hiding or somewhere else in the cage, do not worry. The basking spot should be 90-103 degrees F. Cool side should be 77-86 degrees Fahrenheit. Do not use cheap pet store temperature and humidity gauges- they are not accurate. Spend the extra $10.00 and get a temperature gun.
Diet:
In the wild, Russian tortoises eat sparse vegetation. In captivity, you should have a variety of green vegetables, such as
-romaine lettuce
-leaf lettuce
-chicory
-weeds
-sunflowers
-mustard, collard, and dandelion greens
-etc.
Water/Humidity:
50-70% humidity- achieve this by wetting substrate completely weekly. Twice daily 10-15 minute sprays from a plant mister.
For babies, a closed chamber works, but it is not needed for adults. Water bowls are nessicary. You should soak babies weekly, adults every other week.